The PEOPLE, COMPANIES and IDEAS THAT MADE NEWS in 2017
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NEWSPAPER 2ND CLASS $2.99 VOLUME 73, NUMBER 51 DECEMBER 8–14, 2017 THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY FOR 72 YEARS Frances Harder Max Azria UCLA Economists Predict a Healthy 2018 With Clouds on the Horizon By Deborah Belgum Senior Editor The economic world has been pretty rosy in the last few Dov Charney True Religion years with consistent growth, falling unemployment rates and rising wages. That picture of health will continue through 2018, but UCLA economists are seeing some headwinds approaching in 2019. “There is a momentum coming from the recent strength in 2017, strong equipment spending, the likelihood of a tax cut and a consumer who is benefiting from higher asset prices and the prospect of higher wages,” said UCLA senior economist David Shulman, one of the economists who wrote the recent “UCLA Anderson Forecast for the Nation and the Economy,” which was released Dec. 6. One of the more recent movers and shakers to the econ- omy includes a giant jump in equipment purchases, up 8 percent in the two most recent quarters. That is expected to Karsten Newbury and Tim Gunn Ilse Metchek continue into next year and help push the country’s gross ➥ Forecast page 7 tHE PEOPLE, COMPANIES AND IDEAS FIBER & FABRIC Cone, Lenzing and Unifi Partner THAT MADE NEWS IN 2017 for Future Black+ Denim With From high-profile bankruptcies and companies reinventing their brand to revamped shopping centers and Recycled Materials new beginnings for entrepreneurs, the year has been filled with news that has kept the apparel industry evolving. By Alison A. Nieder Contributing Editor American Apparel was bought by a Canadian enterprise, launching American Apparel founder Dov Charney in Fiber makers Lenzing and Unifi have teamed up with a new direction with his latest venture, called Los Angeles Apparel. The nonprofit Fashion Business Inc. closed its fabric mill Cone Denim to introduce Future Black+, a den- doors, but its founder turned around and started a new company, called Fashion for Profit. The ever-innovative im made with Unifi’s recycled Repreve fibers and Lenzing Modal. Agenda trade show revamped its event and opened the doors to consumers, and longtime contemporary clothing A pair of jeans made from Forever Black+ contains up to firm BCBGMaxAzria is without its founder, Max Azria, after being bought by a brand-management company. Our 17 recycled plastic bottles, according to the companies. The colorfast, fade-resistant fabric is a mix of Repreve recycled look at the movers and shakers that influenced the local apparel scene begins on page 3. fibers with the soft hand of Lenzing Modal fibers. Future Black+ denim is made by dope dyeing the fiber. Introducing color during the fiber-production process saves energy and creates more-permanent colorfastness because the dye permeates the entire fiber rather than just the sur- face. According to company tests, denim made from Future Black+ retained its color even after more than 20 washes. “Lenzing has always been committed to sustainability ➥ Fiber & Fabric page 8 INSIDE: Where fashion gets down to business SM Mark Lynn Corey Epstein 2 8 Agenda goes digital ... p. 2 Surf Expo expands ... p. 2 Artistic Milliners ... p. 9 Salute to Suppliers & Services ... p. 9 American Apparel Westfield Agenda www.apparelnews.net 01,7,8.cover.indd 1 12/7/17 4:54 PM NEWS Agenda Introduces Digital Marketplace The Agenda trade show is going digital. da. People need to touch and to feel product. ter, said Agenda’s new venture should find but. It will offer new features such as Sales- The 14-year-old event and NuOrder, a They need to shake hands. We extend that to an interested market. Match, which helps brands find retailers who Los Angeles–headquartered business-to- the other 360 or so days a year,” he said. “There’s a huge amount of cost savings would be open to their products based on business e-commerce platform, announced “Retailers going to trade shows only have not having to get trade-show booths and not each business’s criteria. Other new features: they would introduce a digital extension of two to three days to conduct business. They having to travel,” Bates said. He said the idea Lead Insights, which allows brands to see and Agenda at the upcoming Jan. 4–5 show in can run out of time and not see 20 other brands. of a digital trade show was pitched to him request connections with retailers who view Long Beach, Calif., and at the Feb. 12–14 Retailers can map out a show better,” Wells when he was producing Class, a trade show their digital showrooms, and Leads365, a run of Agenda in Las Vegas. added, noting he hopes the digital marketplace that took place in 2011 in Santa Monica, smartphone app that allows vendors to scan Agenda’s digital marketplace will become will complement the physical trade show. Calif. While there was interest in the ideas trade-show badges and business cards and im- a crucial part of the Agenda experience, said The digital marketplace, which does not and news stories covered the idea of a virtual port the info to their ShopThe Floor account. have a separate name from Agenda, trade show, the concept didn’t take off. But NuOrder’s digital marketplace for Agen- will start with 50 brand sponsors and times have changed, Bates said. da has been going through a test phase since 500 VIP retailers. All retailers will be “I don’t know if brands were technologi- November. One brand in the test phase got welcome in the market, Wells said. cally up to speed and if the technology was 15 leads from retailers during November, Eventually, the market will be there, but now there may be more of an ap- Wells said. rolled out to include many more petite,” he said. The digital marketplace will be an integral brands. To participate in the digital UBM, which produces the sprawling part of the Agenda experience, Levant said. It marketplace, brands will be required MAGIC trade shows in Las Vegas, has been will not feel separate from the physical trade to exhibit at the physical Agenda. running the virtual trade-show site shopthe- show. “There’s a lot of talk about experiential The Agenda digital marketplace will floor.com, which has been in existence since retail. We’ve done a lot to make Agenda more be separate from NuOrder’s digital 2013. Mike Alic, managing director of UBM experiential, less transactional,” Levant said. marketplace, where 800 brands and Fashion, said more than 3,000 brands run “It is as important to be digitally focused as COURTESY OF AGENDA AND NUORDER 300,000 buyers participate. profiles at the e-market. well as experientially focused. This is a great DIGITAL MARKET: Home page for Agenda and NuOrder’s At the digital Agenda market- In 2018, ShopTheFloorPremium will de- way to do it.”—Andrew Asch e-marketplace seen on various devices place, brands can upload catalogs and line sheets to NuOrder’s plat- form to work with retailers at the Aaron Levant, Agenda’s founder. As digital physical show and then after the show. Re- commerce becomes more central to all busi- tailers can browse brands through social me- Surf Expo Adds New Category to Trade Show nesses, it is crucial for trade shows to do dia–style profiles that will contain credit ap- more than produce a website. “In the long plications as well as feeds from Instagram Surf Expo, known for showcasing all The new section will have a Bluewater run, if we don’t do it we’ll be irrelevant,” Le- profiles run by brands. kinds of apparel and accessories related to lounge and will feature a flats skiff by Hell’s vant said of the traditional trade-show busi- Agenda’s launch of an online trade show surfing and other water-related sports, is Bay Boatworks. ness model. comes after trade-show vendors have been adding a new section called Bluewater. “For years, Surf Expo has been a top trade But the physical Agenda, which runs complaining for some time now about de- Bluewater, which will debut at the next event for brands rooted in the inshore and twice-a-year shows in Long Beach and Las clining buyer attendance throughout the Jan. 25–27 show in Orlando, Fla., will fea- offshore apparel market,” said Roy Turner, Vegas, will continue to be healthy, said market. Jason Bates, a former trade-show ture products for the inshore and offshore Surf Expo’s show director. “Recent show Heath Wells, NuOrder’s cofounder and chief producer and founder of the Derelicte fishing aficionados. Anchoring the new sec- trends have seen a new group of brands and executive officer. “We can’t replicate Agen- Showroom at the California Market Cen- tion will be legacy companies such as Salt retailers emerge, especially in performance Life, Bimini Bay and Yeti. apparel. Creating this stand-alone category “We are excited to return to Surf Expo will address the growing market needs and and to be in the new Bluewater section,” said provide our retail buyers with more oppor- Larry Laska, Salt Life’s director of market- tunity.” ing. “Bluewater is the ultimate destination Bluewater will be centrally located on for those who live the salt life to see the Surf Expo’s show floor bordered by the Pad- latest innovations in saltwater apparel and dle, Surf and Resort categories. gear.” Surf Expo is a longtime boardsports and Featured products in the new section will beach/resort lifestyle trade show held in include performance and lifestyle apparel, January and September.