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Fribourg, Neuchâtel & Jura

Fribourg, Neuchâtel & Jura

, NEUCHÂTEL & JURA 97 Fribourg © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © Gruyères Neuchâtel LANGUAGE: :

Val de Travers

Jean Jean

saucisson saucisson Owl Farm AREA: 3311 SQ KM Neuchâtel green fairy green

( p103 ) and starry- ( p106 ) cheesy side p106 ( Estvayer Avenches amphitheatre Avenches Gruyères’ ( p100 ) tick in Fribourg p100 ( and old-fashioned fresh air at and old-fashioned fresh eyed at a concert in ( p106 ) ( p105 ) near Murten du marc by medieval Being enchanted de Travers’ ) and the Val p109 ( ( p113 ) Getting frog-mad in Discovering Discovering out what made modern artistic prodigy Finding a b..ig hearty wine, gulp of Vully Taking Tinguely POPULATION: 474,700 POPULATION:

This chapter covers (from south to north) the cantons of Fribourg, Neuchâtel and Jura, south to north) (from Neuchâtel Fribourg, the cantons of covers chapter This HIGHLIGHTS HIGHLIGHTS

A far cry from the staggering Alpine scenes more readily associated with , this with Switzerland, associated readily scenes more the staggering Alpine A far cry from From something of a ‘secret’. of the country remains corner in the west gentle less-visited green to the mysterious and Neuchâtel capitals of Fribourg medieval cantonal the evocative lakes to charming villages the land of three of the Jura, from hills and deep dark forests sights and scapes well off the beaten a wealth of and St Ursanne, it proffers like Gruyères in lakeside bogs, marvellingtourist track. to frogs singing at palatial ice crea- it listening Be the wayward fairy into the devilish green or following the call of tions between pine trees for a brilliant sensory experience…and that includes promises here travelling de Tavers, Val cheese) monks’ heads (strong, nutty-flavoured are On the food front, there buds. the taste AOC cheeses to be sampled and sweet best known Switzerland’s to be munched, one of to blow the calorie count in rich, thick double cream meringues smothered feather-light much, thousands upon thousands of kilometreson. When it all gets too of waistline-saving walking, skiing cycling and cross-country trails – not to mention sailing, skiing and wake- – kickboarding on lake water in. as well as the northwestern trio of lakes wedged between tip of the canton of . The de Morat and Bieler See – and Lac cantons – Lac de Neuchâtel, and Neuchâtel the Fribourg rules plain. French (Mittelland) Central canton fall mostly within the Plateau the Fribourg German predominates. canton where bar the eastward edge of the latter everywhere Fribourg, & Jura Neuchâtel FRIBOURG, NEUCHÂTEL & JURA forced tojointheSwissConfederation. ( p104 ) in1476,after which Fribourg was offor allattheinfamousBattle Murten Burgundy duke CharlestheBoldonceand and remained sountiltheSwissthrashed eastern frontier postof theBurgundy realm becameafortified in 1157.Itsubsequently cameupwithFribourg who foundedBern) told IV(fatherof thefearless bearhunter and utensils wasdiscovered. lake’s eastern endwhere astore of weapons TènePeriod’,‘La onthe after thesettlement IronAgesecond inEuropeisreferred toas and the deNeuchâtel around3000BC Lac along The area’s settled earliest inhabitants History 98 To (36km) FRIBOURG, NEUCHÂTEL&JURA Influential Zähringen nobleman Berch- FRIBOURG,NEUCHÂTEL&JURA••History Pontarlier F RANCE L' N1 NEUCHÂTEL N9 Táillêres Lac des VAUD Lake Geneva (Lac Léman) N1

Val de Brenets Lac des Poëta Raisse Gorges dela Travers La Chaux du Milieu Môtiers Saut du de-Martel Noiraigue Les Ponts- N5 Couvet Echallens les-Bains Yverdon- N10 Brenets du Van de-Fonds La Chaux- Creux Les Biaufond Neuchâtel N9 Maîche Lac de Gorges del'Areuse Estavayer- le-Lac Goumois Noirmont Valangin Peseux St Imier N9 sur-Gruyères Montreux Neuchâtel Moléson- Montfaucon La Neuveville N9 Guénaux Marin Pringy Mur Murten neighbour, theJura–toturnSwiss. obliged it–alongwithitsnortherly until1815whentheCongress of from 1707,remained aloof fromtheCon- thumb of Frederick theGreat of Prussia the Juraispracticallyimpossiblewithout Navigating themore remote corners of deFribourg’s centralspine.the Canton roars down andGeneva with Lausanne road, theA12motorwaylinkingBern make workof light getting around.By main cities–Fribourg andNeuchâtel – connectionstoandfromthe tracks. Rail Most of theregion iswell-covered bytrain &Around There Getting Avenches Saignelégier See JURA Snooty oldNeuchâtel, underthedistant Montbovon St Ursanne Le Chasseral (1607m) Ins Gruyères (653m) Glovelier Tavannes la Gruyère Murten Lac de FRIBOURG Bieler N12 (Jura bernois) Bellelay See Fribourg Schwarzsee BERN Brugg N16 Biel-Bienne Moutier Lyss Grenchen 12miles 20km 0 0 Delémont www.lonelyplanet.com Bern

Solothurn BERN Laufen Weissenstein Welschenrohr N6 Schönbühl (1279m) BERN Thunersee To To (10km) (80km) N6 CANTON DEFRIBOURG hiking boots. of orasturdyset your owntwowheels www.lonelyplanet.com Places and PlacesGeorges Python. From and opens intothehubof town,Square des runs northeast,becomes RuedeRomont, elbow. of landcalledAuge cradledintheriver’s cholas andflowingintothelow-lyingspit bank, gathered deStNi- aroundCathédrale Much of theOldTownisonriver’s west Orientation planted it. hatandlinden twigfromthemessenger’s ers, bythistragictwist,tookthe saddened dead withexhaustiononarrival.Onlook- defeated CharlestheBold…onlytodrop to relay the gladtidingsthattheSwiss had sprint fromMurten toFribourg in1476 a lindentree ( right amessenger) –saw by theMurten–Fribourg dash( p105 ) and and arefreshing waftof originality. get afascinatingtownwithfeisty nightlife andyou population intotheculturalcocktail student andanotable Throw Catholicism bank speakFrench, ontheeastbankGerman. riverside citywhere onthewest inhabitants bourg (Freiburg) or‘Free Town’,amedieval guage divide)more keenly felt thanin Fri- Nowhere isSwitzerland’s 630m pop 33,000/elevation FRIBOURG (30%). population), eastspeaksGerman westspeaksFrenchroughly, (65%of the canton fascinatingisitslinguisticdivide: traces thecanton’scentralspine. bask inamilderclimate. TheRiver Sarine a wealthof vineyardsandfruitorchards the northwest,pretty lakeside villages and Fribourg headsthecantonupnorth.In ofpierces itscentralheartandthecapital its sprinklingof resorts smallmountain feet, cheesyits coldcraggy Gruyères with Pre-Alpine grandlyaround foothillsrise tots up1671sqkmonthedrawingboard. deFribourg (population239,100) Canton The southernmostof thethree cantons, From the train station, AveFrom thetrainstation, delaGare Its greatest momentinhistory–marked Variety of scapeaside,whatmakes this Röstigraben (lan- sance sance Linden Tree) infrontof stands theRenais- Lorette are otherprimevantage points. hringen, Route desAlpesandCheminde Berne May-Sep, 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noonSatOct-Apr) 9am-6pmMon-Fri, May-Sep, .ch; Ave 1; delaGare hr Sfr10; bert-le-grand.ch inFrench; RueduTemple 1; bert-le-grand.ch Gothic entering Before this brooding13th-century CATHÉDRALE DEST NICHOLAS du Milieu Auge. Thebridges here –quaintstone later spreadsettlement downthehillinto markets, church andcivicbuildings.The Chanoines/Rue desBouchers to devoted street andparallelRuedesmain traffic in simplefashion,withGrand-Rueasthe The 12th-century Sights office Tourist TOURIST INFORMATION postoffice Central POST Pays deFribourg RESOURCESINTERNET Cyberworld ACCESSINTERNET leGrand Albert Librairie BOOKSHOPS Information Town. leadsintotheOld street RuedeLausanne this square, thepedestrian-onlyshopping cathedral’s 74m-tall cathedral’s 74m-tall likeness andmovement. picting Christ’sburial withexceptionallife- Sépulcre asyouenteryour right is tured Judgment.On portrayalof theLast withits 15th-centurysculp- the mainportal on Fribourg land. on Fribourg 8am-4pm Sat)Englishbooks,mapsandLPtravelguides. Mon, 8.30am-6.30pmTue, 8.30am-8pmThu, Wed&Fri, Mon-Fri, 8am-4pmSat) Mon-Fri, Fribourg’s famous A hike up 368steps tothetopof the – proffer great views.PontdeZae- town hall CANTON DE FRIBOURG •• Fribourg CANTON DEFRIBOURG••Fribourg h withasculptural group(1433)de- cathedral and cobbled,roof-covered 1pm-midnight) ( % ( % 026 3212240;RuedeLausanne2;per (Grand-Rue). (www.pays-de-fribourg.ch) Lowdown (www.pays-de-fribourg.ch) (Rue desChanoines) h 026 3213175;www.fribourgtourism

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& JURA & FRIBOURG, NEUCHÂTEL NEUCHÂTEL FRIBOURG, FRIBOURG, NEUCHÂTEL & JURA Fribourg highlight. Fribourg highlight. landmarkcompleted in1490,isa nisable Phalle Phalle 1900, the (1925–91) inatramwaydepotdatingto modern artisticprodigy, opulence. Created inmemory of Fribourg’s than-life, allegoricalcommentonWestern –makeof museum itslarger- thisfantastic isme Totalitaire de l’AbondanceOccidentale et duMercantil- Jump onthered buttontowatch PHALLE ESPACE JEANTINGUELY –NIKIDESAINT Thu, 2-5pmSunApr-Oct) h 100 Gruyères (30km) (25km); Bulle To N12Motorway 4 1 3 2 Rue Louis d'Affry FRIBOURG (FREIBURG) 10am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Wed, Fri &Sat,10am-noon 10am-noon &2-5pmMon-Wed,Fri CANTONDEFRIBOURG••Fribourg Espace JeanTinguely–Niki de Saint C1 Basilique deNotre-DameFribourg.. Town Hall...... Musée SuissedelaMarionnette...... Musée d'Artetd'Histoire...... Kuriosium Sonnenberg...... Phalle...... Église desCordeliers...... Commanderie deStJean...... Cathédrale deStNicholas...... Tourist Office...... Librairie AlbertleGrand...... Cyberworld...... Central PostOffice...... SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Route des Arsenaux Marly (5km) (350m); Fri-son(800m); Cardinal (350m);ToSee (350m); MuséedelaBiére To BrasserieduCardinal ( % 4 33

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Chemin Aeby Rue duPontMuró Pierre Rue 11 de de Rue nunciation andscenesfromdailylife. ing 75figurinesre-enacting thenativity,an- restored 18th-century Fribourg Fribourg neighbour, the depictstheCrucifixion.Itsmightyaltar Mar) de Morat6; Inside 13th-century ÉGLISE DESCORDELIERS Sfr6/free; 1950s untilTinguely’s death. worked/lived withTinguely fromthelate ist NikideSaintPhalle (1930–2002)who wacky creations of French-American art- hismachines andsomeofshowcases the 18

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A2 A2 C1 B2 B2 D2 D2 B2 C3 A2 C2 D2 Planche ὈὈ (Saane) Sarine ὈὈ ὈὈὈ Ὀ ὈὈὈ Ὀ Ὀ Chemin de Lorette de Chemin des Rue

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iea...... B1 Winebar...... Upper Funicular Station...... Pertuis FunicularStation...... Bus Station...... Service CulturelRegional...... (see 4) Morrison Room...... (see28) La Spirale...... TW...... Plaza LoungeBar...... Paddy Reilly’s...... L'Apart...... (see 19) Brasserie ArtisanaledeFribourg...... TRANSPORT ENTERTAINMENT DRINKING Chanoines 0.2miles 300m 0 0

6

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adult/12-16yr Sfr10/6; .corpaato.ch CheminduSonnenberg4; inFrench &German; 2;adult/childSfr5/3; Derrière-les-Jardins Fribourg’s D’HISTOIREMUSÉE D’ARTET www.lonelyplanet.com apparently paintsexclusively withaknife. painter Jean-Pierre (b1950)who Corpataux butcher Corpaato), aliasjollyoldbutcher- absurd worksby thegalleryfeaturesindeed, surrealist and the climbs fromthesquare’s western endto its eastern sideandChemindeSonnenberg of StJohn inthe13thcentury,dominates Jean Supérieure. Theformer the broadslopingsquare knownasPlanche Cross PontduMilieuandheadwesttowards PLANCHE SUPÉRIEURE Museum Puppets rubshoulders inthe MUSÉE SUISSEDELAMARIONNETTE is oneof thecity’sfew green picnicspots. pierced byaNikideSaintPhalle sculpture, garden,overlookingmuseum theriver and machine components.Thebench-cladmetal creations combininganimalskullswith withsomeofposed Tinguely’s sculptural chamber where religious are statues juxta- GothintheundergroundGothic meets andarmoury.the formerslaughterhouse withannexes in HôtelRenaissance Ratzé, sculpture inthe andpainting,ishoused with anexcellentcollectionof late-Gothic free/5; 305 5140;RuedeMorat12;adult/under16/studentSfr8/ Mon-Fri, 2-6pmSat&Sun) Mon-Fri, without bathroomSfr50/100/140/160; Auberge aux4Vents AUTHOR’S CHOICE 15th-century Porte deMoratandturn rightimmediately15th-century Porte before thetrain bridge. medieval Fribourg panorama. restaurantthat spillfromthe highly recommended tooverlook conservatory-style astunning car doublesasplayhouseandsmooching spot.There are swings,apool,barbecueandtables through thewindowforabathbeneath stars. Styleor bluefloweryperiodfurnishingsandatubon railsthatrollsoutwhile dreamy ‘bleue’sports is Switzerland’s mostluxuriousdorm;singlered rosesinvasesplaster the wallsof‘cathédrale’; vidually designed(‘byabunchofadorable lunatics’saysthehotel): thefour-bedded ‘dortoir’ luxurious countryinnwhere designofawackyrusticnature prevails. Itseightroomsare indi- Kuriosium Sonnenberg Sonnenberg Kuriosium , erected of bytheKnights theOrder To get to the ‘4 Winds’, 2km north inGrandfrey, along RuedeMoratthrough driveTo gettothe‘4Winds’, 2kmnorth north h % 11am-6pm Tue, 11am-8pmThu) Wed&Fri-Sun, 026 322 85 13; www.marionnette.ch in French; inFrench; 026 3228513;www.marionnette.ch Art & History Museum Museum &History Art h Le Boucher Corpaato . 10am-5pm Tue-Sun). ( % ( % Commanderie deSt Commanderie 026 BalzliGrandfrey347 3600;www.aux4vents.ch; 124;s/dSfr120/170,s/d/tr/q Res 026 322 0350;www Swiss Puppetry Swiss Puppetry (MAHF; h ps 10am-5pm Curious % ) (the ‘Stylish’ scarcelydoesjusticetothis imaginative and 026 , .ch; Rue du Criblet 7;s/d/tr/qSfr90/140/160/215) .ch; RueduCriblet paato.ch; CheminduSonnenberg4;s/dSfr70/120; Nov; 10am &5-10pmMar–early Rue del’Hôpital2;dmSfr30.65,s/dSfr51.50/85; pnai gen 13;stefor1/2peopleSfr190/260;menusSfr49-116; inFrench; RuedeZaehrin- .auberge-de-zaehringen.ch Grand-Places 14;s/dfromSfr150/220; ose halls andlabyrinthine passages. ose read: loadsof lovely timberbeams,grandi- Fribourg in1157dates tothe13thcentury– after theDukes of whofounded Zaehringen surrounding farms. of hasdetails The touristoffice B&Bsin Sleeping its neighbouring restaurant. rates shouldyouwish todinein half-board fers roomsandcompetitive well-maintained to lookatfromtheoutside,Hôtel Elite of- restaurant andJacuzzi-clad suites. its businessfacilities,moderndécor,classy ment block,upmarket NHlures suitswith moderninalumberingapart- Notably owls mustringtoenter after 10pm. no cookingoreatinginrooms,andnight opposite Fribourg University. Nosmoking, desBourgeois,the 17th-centuryHôpital are clearatthiscityhostel inonewingof to Planche Supérieure andhike upthehill. shared. Take busNo4fromthetrainstation rooms, breakfast includedandbathrooms wackiest artgallery( left simple ) hasseveral berg, opposite Fribourg’s thispeacefulhouse aplombMontSonnen- a 19th-centuryhouse Auberge de Jeunesse Fribourg deJeunesse Auberge Auberge deZaehringen Auberge Hôtel Elite Hôtel Kuriosium Sonnenberg Sonnenberg Kuriosium NH Fribourg NH Fribourg CANTON DE FRIBOURG •• Fribourg CANTON DEFRIBOURG••Fribourg what ? Intheamblinggardensacable

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& JURA & FRIBOURG, NEUCHÂTEL NEUCHÂTEL FRIBOURG, FRIBOURG, NEUCHÂTEL & JURA fondue andmeringueswithcream. and boldeatinghallabove themarket place. inventive twistare of themainstay thisbright steps fromtheSarine. of foot- in atwinset 16th-centuryhouses veteran, thisoneboasts17charming rooms Café duGothard Café Eating Sfr190/240; menusSfr30&Sfr40) 12;s/dfrom-sauvage.ch inFrench; Planche Supérieure 102 Sat) h and amenufondue pavement typesof terrace withseven fondue bourg’s oldboypullsthepunters onitsbusy 25; starters/mains Sfr10/15,lunchmenuSf16; 25; starters/mains 11.30pm Tue-Thu, &Sat) 9-2amFri talgia, thetraditionalbistroislegendary.talgia, Niki deSaintPhalle drawingsandartnos- mix of original19th-centuryfurnishings, in 2006after months of renovation. Akitsch Tinguely’s favourite eatinghaunttoreopen de Romont25;saladsSfr6.50-21.50,menufondueSfr36) 6pm Mon-Sat) in thepark. car accidentin1971)spoutingoutwater driver months JoSiffert, before hisdeadly Fribourg artistforhismate, Swissracing at theTinguely (created fountain bythe pick acheap fill…andfinish withagander spot. CookingismodernEuropean. makes thisfree Wi-Fizoneahotlunchtime overlooking people-busy RuedeLausanne Manora Restaurant Restaurant Manora La Petite Brasserie Brasserie La Petite duSauvage Hôtel Les Halles Café du Midi duMidi Café style Old Cat stout. or Barberoussewith subtlecaramelandhoneyaromas, and Sfr4.50forabottleofblack,Irish- brews just 50hectolitres ayear. Pay Sfr4forabottleofitsgoldenGerman-style Barbeblanche breweryenterprise asanamusingpastime(and nowrunitasaSaturdayhobby!),the one-room adult/under 12 with drink Sfr10/5; adult/under 12withdrink Mon-Thu) beer and take inthe beer andtake If it’sbig-namebeeryoucrave, headfor Fribourg’s BREWERIES BIG&SMALL ( been brewed since1788. .cardinal.ch inFrench &Dutch;Passage duCardinal) 8am-7pm Mon-Wed & Fri, 8am-9.30pmThu,8am-6pm 8am-7pm Mon-Wed&Fri, % This glassshoebox heaves. Grabatray, CANTONDEFRIBOURG••Fribourg At the otherendofscaleissmall-timemicrobrewery 026 19; 322 80 88;RuedelaSamaritaine demonstrate howwater, maltandhopsare turnedintoninedifferent typesofCardinal Market-driven creations withan (Pl desOrmeaux1;mealsSfr15-17;

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Gare 1; Gare free; Passage Cardinal2c; admissionSfr10-20,before 11pmoften 2pm-3amSat,10am-11pmSun) Fri, French; Ruedel’Hôpital39; Regional adjoiningthetouristoffice. Culturel intheService for culturalevents www.lonelyplanet.com Geneva (Sfr37, 1½ hours) and Bern (Sfr12.40, (Sfr12.40, (Sfr37, 1½hours) andBern Geneva (Sfr19, 55minutes), andmore frequently to Trains travel hourlyto/fromNeuchâtel &Away There Getting clubbing crowd.DJsspinallstyles. dance floors, galleryand frenetic aselect Regional Culturel Service Entertainment to home-grown sounds. club bytheriver. Wednesdaysare dedicated create apotent inthiscellar musicalcocktail biggest stages forlive concerts. –andisoneofhouse western Switzerland’s Fri-son spinsrap,reggae, soul,techno and 3am Fri, 10pm-1amSat) 3am Fri, h BoutduMonderestaurant. in itsLe weekends andmunchies canbeputtorest parties, Asetrix andObelixsoiréesetc)fill free WiFivenue. (beach Specialevents funky isthespiritof thisstudent-driven, la Fonderie 13; admission up to Sfr15, concerts uptoSfr40) 13;admission uptoSfr15,concerts la Fonderie Sun) French; PlduPetit St-Jean 39;admissionSfr10-35; La Spirale Winebar To See To See Fri-son Morrison Room Morrison Fribourg Constructed in1899,the the aidofgoodoldstinkysewagewater. a funicularlurchupthemountainsidewith Nowhere elseinEurope barFribourg does THE FRIBOURGFUNICULAR Town views. twominutestakes andincludesbagsofOld the upperstation(618m;Route desAlpes) lower Pertuis station(121m;PlduPertuis) to ancing water-powered carriagesfromthe minutes. The rideinoneoftwocounterbal- ofthetownwithupperevery sixpart 7pm Mon-Sat,9.30am-7pmSun) 9.30pm-2am Mon,9pm-2amWed,10pm-2amThu,10pm- Jazz, blues,folkandflamencomusicians h h 10pm-4am Wed, Fri &Sat,10pm-3amThu) 10pm-4am Wed,Fri ( 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pmSat) 9am-6pm Mon-Fri,

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CANTON DE FRIBOURG •• Estavayer-le-Lac CANTON DEFRIBOURG••Estavayer-le-Lac ten toafrogs’chorus inthe and surf on thegravely beach here…or lis- Jul &Aug,2-5pmSatSunNov-Feb) 10am-noon& 2-5pmdaily Tue-Sun Mar-Jun, &Oct, Sep 13;adult/childSfr4/2; du Musée .alphasurf.ch; 1/5/20circuitsSfr5/20/50; .alphasurf.ch; noon & 1.30-5.30pm Tue-Fri Oct-Mar). noon &1.30-5.30pmTue-Fri 10am-noon&2-4pmSatApr-JunMon-Fri, 10am- &Sep, 10am-noon SunJul&Aug, 8.30am-noon&1.30-5.45pm 10am-noon&2-4pmSat, noon &1.30-5.45pmMon-Fri, 14; inFrench; RuedelaGare avayer-le-lac.ch a jettyat around acableway circuitfromtheendof that towswater-skiers andwake-boarders Communal The stars of theeclecticshowat the Sights &Activities and the walk400mtotown From thetrainstation &Information Orientation dead oralive. Pretty faceaside,itisknownforfrogs– Estavayer-le-Lac isalovely littlehideout. core, itsmedieval that haslargely preserved A charming manicured lakeside enclave 455m pop 4330/elevation ESTAVAYER-LE-LAC andBern. neva (Sfr14.20, onehour). Bulle (Sfr14.20, 55minutes) andSchwarzsee tion forAvenches (Sfr8.60, 25minutes) and (Sfr22, 45to55minutes). Lausanne (Sfr16.80,les-Bains 55to80minutes) and 20 minutes). RegulartrainsruntoYverdon- ing and‘modelling’frogs. fellow,tary spentthe1860scatching, stuff- frogs. FrançoisPerrier, aretired Swissmili- drawer bridge in medieval times. drawer bridge inmedieval 9m above andwasreached groundlevel bya viaadoorthat stood could onlybeaccessed lore. Thelargest tower,32m-tall interspersed with16gates andturrets ga- original 40m-longand35m-widerectangle des Remparts but itsrampartscanbestrolled.The darmerie home tothePréfecture deFribourg and with Alphasurf’s Fribourg is on the N12 between Lake Ge- Fribourg Lake isontheN12between departfrombehindthetrainsta- Buses Fairytale Lac de Neuchâtel Neuchâtel de Lac Tourist Office Office Tourist (police station), cannotbevisited (policestation), Nouvelle Plage Nouvelle (Regional Museum; (Regional Château deChenaux Château takes youalong much of the Téléski Téléski reins inabuoyantcrowd ( % . You can swim, sail . Youcanswim, sail ( h % % 026 6631237;www.est are 108stuffed 10am-noon &2-5pm 079 258 2147;www 026 6632448;Rue Grande Cariçaie Grande Cariçaie (1285–90), h Grand Tour h May-Sep) May-Sep) 8.30am- Musée Musée Circuit gen- 103

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& JURA & FRIBOURG, NEUCHÂTEL NEUCHÂTEL FRIBOURG, FRIBOURG, NEUCHÂTEL & JURA eat asmany this odetoregional cuisinewhere youcan terrace oruptopintheformalrestaurant at thighs) asyoulike for Sfr32. breakfast Sfr50/60; 1/2ormore nightsperpersonwith .org; RoutedelaGare; sushi isaFridayspeciality. Brunch isdishedupSundayandbeach pétanque restaurant where boarders eat,drink,play beach buzzhitthistrendy waterfront café- .ch inFrench; RuedesLacustres; village on the eastern shore of Murten See medieval This fortifiedGerman-speaking 450m pop 5650/elevation MURTEN Boatscallintoo(see from Lausanne. p112 ). it’s ashortdetouroff thenorthbound N1 utes) andYverdon (Sfr6.60, 17minutes), or route Fribourg between (Sfr11.40, 40min- Estavayer-le-Lac isontheroadandtrain &Away There Getting share akitchen. packed withoutdoorenthusiasts.Guests dation armof Alphasurf,thisshoebox gets French; GrandeGouille1;dmSfr20) My Lady’sManor Sleeping &Eating (www.grande-caricaei.ch). 104 frog land. ers provide abird’seyeviewof theunique tree frogsandcommontoads.Watchtow- hold forcommongreen frogs,pool ern edge deNeuchâtel of isastrong- Lac reed-fringed lakes strungalong thesouth- the gardenisafamilychoice. jovial crowdthatdineshere andlunch in wherever youare. Fishlovers make upthe Old Town–makingitaneasystrollhome Hôtel lake duPort sitsplumpbetween and around Sfr20) RuedesGranges 2;mains chateau.info inFrench &German; station. station. nearthe this statelyB&Binamanorhouse ing like ababeisallpartof thecharm at in theflowerygardens,painting,orsleep- 130/150/160, menudujourSfr16,mainsaroundSfr30; s/d/tr/qSfr80/ inFrench; RouteduPort; .hotelduport.ch Les Lacustres Les Lacustres Hôtel Restaurant du Port duPort Restaurant Hôtel Hostellerie du Château duChâteau Hostellerie Abri-Côtier Abri-Côtier CANTONDEFRIBOURG••Murten Dineontheinformaltree-shaded (French bowls)andlounge. ( %

cuisses degrenouilles h ( % ( % 026 663 5052;www.abri-cotier.ch in Mar-Oct; Mar-Oct; 026 6632316;www.myladysmanor 026 663 1196;www.leslacustres Thechain of marshy ( % p ( % 026 663 1049;www.au 026 Theaccommo- ) Grillingdinner 026 6648282;www h Mar-Oct) Mar-Oct) (frogs’ p For )

10am-5pm Sun Apr-Oct, 2-5pmTue-Sun Nov-Apr) 10am-5pm SunApr-Oct, Ryf4;adult/child Sfr4/1; French &German; Sat Apr-Sep) 10am-2pm 9am-noon&2-6pmMon-Fri, Oct-Mar, Mon-Fri 6; FranzösischeKirchgasse German; cruises. and other interesting food-orientated boat 16 Sfr39/19.50), floating fondueevenings Sundaybrunchganises (adult/child sixto walls. medieval ered walkway traversing partof thesturdy Hauptgasse, cappedbythemedieval haus shopsandeateries studparallel gasse; century hotel-restaurants culminatingina13th- Astringof crammed witharcadedhouses. Murten isacobbled three-street town Sights &Activities Office Tourist Information ing paths. marked roller-skating, cyclingandwalk- district crisscrossed with250km-odd of to formthePays –alake desTroisLacs (north)Neuchâtel (west)andBielerSee afternoon stroll today. a quaintlittlelakeside townwellworthan that thwarted theduke (whoescaped)create ofing theBattle Murten. Thefortifications butchered ordrownedinMurten dur- Lake Murten –onlytohave 8000of hismen tobesiege offfromLausanne the Boldset In May 1476theBurgundy duke Charles meaning ‘fortress onthelake’ –fornothing. word derived fromtheCeltic deMorat) isn’tcalledMurten (Morat)– (Lac (German Church; DeutscheKirchgasse) (German Seen Seen cross thelake and etMorat Lacs deNeuchâtel operated bythe ofin theBattle Murten. in1829andcannonsused the BroyeCanal artefacts discovered duringthe dredging of Murten (rampart stairs) behindthe Scale thewooden hugthecityramparts. tinuation, Schulgasse, Deutsche Kirchgasse anditswestern con- city gate at itseastern end;whileparallel In amillbeyondthecastle, Canals link Murten See with linkMurten See Canals deLac From May shuttleboats to September, ( % ( % 026 673 08 00; www.dreiseenschiffahrt.ch) 026 673 0800;www.dreiseenschiffahrt.ch) castle 026 670 31 00; www.museummurten.ch in 026 6703100;www.museummurten.ch

( % (closed tovisitors)(closed lineRat- 026 670 51 12; www.murten.ch, in 026 6705112;www.murten.ch, Société deNavigationsurles Schifffahrtsgesellschaft drei drei Schifffahrtsgesellschaft Aufstieg aufdieRingmauer Aufstieg www.lonelyplanet.com h (see (see p112 ) criss- toreach thecov- 10am-noon &2-5pm Deutsche Kirche Deutsche Kirche h 2-5pm Tue-Sat, 2-5pm Tue-Sat, moriduno displays displays Museum Museum Berntor or-

h fromSfr30/50; Sfr290/390, steSfr410-630,starters/mains .vieuxmanoir.ch; s/dfrom RuedeLausanne18,; restaurant. Cross’, a15th-century tavern. Fish drives its to thatof thehistoricexterior of the‘White orpan-friedsauce inmangochilli. perchviews andtasty filetsinsherry andlime bed! Theterrace restaurant has1st-class lake ‘superior’ onesoozestyle–fancyaround space. to create avery andeating spacioussleeping mixescentury patrician’shouse, oldandnew edly luxurioustimberNormandyhouse, Mre’ three-day Murten’s Festivals &Events www.lonelyplanet.com find cheaper eatsonHauptgasse. Many Murten restaurants are insidehotels; Sleeping &Eating who relayed newsof of theBattle Murten. commemorates thedashbymessenger Fribourg raceonthefirst Sundayof October, and its8000-runner h .restaurant-des-bains.ch Ryf35;mainsSfr30; inGerman; guises –includinginlocalVullywine. guises de perche the water where swansgagforcrumbs. terracelawn slopesdownfromitstabled to For lakeside dining,thisisprime. Agreen 280) 31;sSfr110-170,dSfr160- .weisses-kreuz.ch; Rathausgasse Sfr29.50; s/dfromSfr80/100,menu Rathausgasse; .murtenhof.ch; Restaurant desBains Restaurant WeissesKreuz Hotel Hotel Murtenhof &Krone Murtenhof Hotel Le Vieux Manoir auLac Manoir Le Vieux then head inlandfor1kmto Murvillage. roadasfarGuénaux, followingthelake aroundthelake, 13km away,drivefrom Murten north foraccommodation,dinner andSundaylunchareAdvance reservations essential.Togethere inthehaybarn(bringyour ownsleepingbag).straw pricklesare laidonfor campers kipping off to thwart spotless; pinebunkbedsfillaspacious dorminaconverted barn;andblankets to seeandtennis-ball andhismate Roomsare chasingSpake Sashaforcanineentertainment. views. lake tables,apond,swingandspectacular Thereraced gardenssport are variousanimals winetrail),manyguestsarrive onfootorbybicycle.on theSentierduVins Ter- deVully (Vully authentic regional cuisinethanatOwlFarm, runbyfarmerWillyandwife Nadja. Well placed Sfr27-40; May–mid-Sep Sfr27,Sunlunchmid- straw adult/childSfr26/16,dmSfr25/35, dSfr90-120,dinnermid-May–mid-Sep Eulenhof AUTHOR’S CHOICE mid-Feb–mid-Dec; 9am-midnight Tue-Sun Jun-Sep, Wed-SunOct-May) 9am-midnight Tue-Sun Jun-Sep, Astrikingdesign-ledinterior contrasts Eco roomshave basic furnishings but pn (perch filets) comeinimaginative (Ferme duHibou; ) TheMurtenhof, ina16th- pis carnival marathon

h ( ( % % ( % Jan-Oct; Jan-Oct; ( % % isinearlyMarch 026 6702641;www 026 6702338;www ) 026 6786161;www Thisunabash- 026 672 9030;www 026 673 1885;www.fermeduhibou.ch; campingon RueduChâteau24,Mur; , theMurten– pn ) Nowhere do guestsgetawarmerwelcomeandmore Filets Filets

CANTON DE FRIBOURG •• Around Murten CANTON DEFRIBOURG••AroundMurten night Sun) h day Sfr31) Sat) Hauptgasse 45; N1 linking Lausanne withBern. N1 linkingLausanne Neuchâtel ( p112 ). By car,Murten isonthe work and sells vases andflowers. vases work andsells sushi after minimalist café-bar thatserves (see (see p313 ), Murten’sthrown inforanovernight surroundinggreen rollinthe hay Agricultural withtheoddvillage orfarm AROUND MURTEN From the &Around There Getting Bar undBlumen Drinking 1900s, is built asawhimonthelakeside intheearly du Muratumnextdoor. rior. Forwine,don’tmiss itsL’Oenothèque train station rentstrain station Avenches minutes). (Sfr3.20, Murten seven from Payerne (Sfr7.20, 20minutes) stopat (Sfr11.40, 25 minutes). Hourlytrainsto/ (Sfr3.50, nine minutes), andNeuchâtel (Sfr12.40, 35minutes) viaKerzersBern to/from Fribourg (Sfr10.40, 30minutes), south of thecitywalls,hourlytrainsoperate Murten inMeyriez. Sfr250 perperson. Findit1kmsouthof where for you can dineinstyle(atsunset) fortwoattheendofone table alongjetty wanting theirloved yes,there’s onetosay Seasonal boats sail fromMurten to/from boatssail Seasonal Irish TavernIrish Irishwatering holewithbeamedinte- 10-12.30am Mon-Thu, &Sat,11am-mid- 10-3amFri . ‘Bar andFlowers’ isjustthat–a ‘Bar the train station h ultimate splurge. Forwooers ( % 10am-11.30pm Mon-Thu, & 10-3amFri ( % 026 672 19 20; www.irish-tavern.ch; 026 6721920;www.irish-tavern.ch; bicycles 026 9; 670 0190;Rathausgasse

(Bahnhofstrasse) ( % 051 221 1552;per , 300m

105

& JURA & FRIBOURG, NEUCHÂTEL NEUCHÂTEL FRIBOURG, FRIBOURG, NEUCHÂTEL & JURA Vully (653m). from grapesgrownontheslopesof Mont ern sideof thelake, Vullywineisproduced fice Saturday of each month. Payerne free organ concertsat6.15pmonthefirst sical concerts(tickets Sfr20 toSfr30) and exhibitions (admission uptoSfr12), clas- sculptural decorationandfrescoes, hostsart complexboastsfine magnificent sandstone otic birdsat alongside hummingbirdsandother ex- l’Église 3) ( Latin Americahide in Latin Garden Swiss Butterfly Indigenous butterflies flitabout in the Sfr13/7/3; .papiliorama.ch inFrench &Dutch; adult/4-15yr/parking Kerzers Head 11kmnortheastfromMurten to Kerzers ÉgliseAbbatiale the 11th-centuryfive-apse Romanesque Payerne, 10kmsouthwest,isdominated by Payerne amphitheatre the townwasinsignificant. the late 3rdcenturyandbythe5th bytheAlemanitribein to withstand attacks But its5.6kmof defensive rampartsfailed lation 10timesthatof themodernvillage. centre inthe2ndcenturyAD,withapopu- Helvetiiof theCeltic tribeandwasamajor ten, grew onthesite of theancientcapital Roman , 8kmsouthwestof Mur- Avenches in German) as partof the apple orchards totheagriculturallycurious andopentheirlettucefields 10kg sack) roadside formotoriststobuy(Sfr10 fora air. Farmers trustinglypileupcarrotsonthe fields offer agulpof fineold-fashioned fresh 106 Marché 10; Marché the church, hasdetails. 5pm Tue-Sun Oct-Mar) Sfr4/free; Museum; (Sfr70 toSfr160),the contact Fortickets during itssummeroperaseason. % Its Romanglorydaysare evoked inthe ( CANTONDEFRIBOURG••Gruyères &Around 026 676 9922;www.avenches.ch inFrench; Plde % . % 026 660 6161;www.payerne.ch inFrench; Pldu h

green tourismproject. Onthewest- h where tropicalbutterflies flutter h 026 6751727;Ave Jomini;adult/under16 10am-noon & 1-5pm Tue-Sun Apr-Sep, 2- 10am-noon &1-5pmTue-Sun Apr-Sep, 9am-6pm Apr-Oct, 10am-5pm Nov-Mar). 10am-5pmNov-Mar). 9am-6pm Apr-Oct, 8am-noon &1.30-6pmMon-Fri) , hosttothe Papiliorama

Inforama Seeland Inforama Seeland ( % andanaudienceof 12,000 026 662 6704;PlduMarché) 026 , night creatures, night from Nocturama ( Musée Romain Musée % 031 756 0460;www (www.inforama.ch tourist office tourist

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and thegardens. (adult/child Sfr2/1) Kerzers runbetween linked toMurten bytrain.Shuttle buses minute walkfromKerzers trainstation, just that. (to open2006)intrepid explorers cando Nov-Feb) adult/6-16yr Sfr6.50/2; ‘fantasy art’. ‘fantasy view periodfurniture, and modern tapestries fire in1493.Inside,youcanvisititsdungeon, the 11thto16thcenturies,wasrebuilt after a ères who controlled theSarineValley from made here for centuriescarriesno‘s’. Gruyère cheeseturies. Note thehardAOC of Gruyères the11thand16thcen- between atic www.pave-gruyeres.ch (inFrench). will becomplete; buyavirtualcobble at year, Sfr5 millionproject torepave itsstreets prettierwill lookeven by 2008whenafive- tumbling downahillock.It’scobbled heart is ariotof 15th-to17th-centuryhouses forfoodjunkies. cocktail down theroadcreate adeadlygastronomic double cream andachocolate factoryjust Featherweight meringuesdrownedinthick wake wouldnever up–isallabout. Beauty castlesodreamywith afairytale Sleeping iswhatthisquaintpre-AlpsCheese village – 830m pop 1490/elevation GRUYÈRES &AROUND 10am-5pmNov-Mar) 6pm Apr-Oct, ( Biomechanical artfills the MUSEUM HRGIGER turreted bewitching This CHÂTEAU DEGRUYÈRES Sights Office Tourist Information Apr) 6-16yr Sfr12/5; Zürich-based Giger (b1940). Opposite the uniforms inthe eres.ch inFrench; RueduBourg1; mid-Sep); mid-Sep); year-round,9am-5pmSat&SunJul– 1.30-4.30pm Mon-Fri % The Swisstropicalgardensare a20- Gruyères gets itsnamefromtheemblem- Tummy matters Gruyères aside,medieval , dedicated tothemanbehind thesci-fi 026 9212200;www.hrgigermuseum.com; adult/ gru , hometo19different Countsof Gruy- Moléson (crane) brandished bytheCounts h Gruyères ( % 10am-6pm May-Oct, 11am-5pmNov- 10am-6pm May-Oct, h Alien 026 9218500;www.moleson.ch) ( 9am-6pm Apr-Oct, 10am-4.30pm 10am-4.30pm 9am-6pm Apr-Oct, % movies –-born 026 9211030;www.gruy www.lonelyplanet.com castle , andin h HR Giger Museum HR GigerMuseum ( % 10.30am-noon & 026 921 21 02; 026 9212102; Jungle Trek Jungle Trek here. tourist trainfromGruyères ( p108 ) stops glasswindows.The can bewatched through 9amand3pm four timesdailybetween and cheese), and cheese), soup toppedwithGruyère doublecream let fondue, per 100g)andserve ioned methodsat9.45amand2.45pm. Gruyères, ismadeusingold-fash- cheese 5km southwestof Gruyères inMoléson-sur- 9am-6pmOct-Mar) 7pm Apr-Sep, maisondugruyere.ch; adult/child/student Sfr5/2/4; to 8km). chure outliningthetwo-hourwalk(7km Ask attheMaison duGruyère forthebro- walkers green through Gruyères pastures. desFromageries Sentier chaletstraditional mountain alongthe restaurants. dishesintheirdairytypical mountain (Gruyère-topped onionsoup)andother costs Sfr14. surrealist style. kitted weirdandwacky outinthesame Museum BarHRGiger Museum www.lonelyplanet.com ( at the The secret behind Gruyère isrevealed cheese CHEESE DAIRIES mid-May–mid-Oct) from Gruyères % At the Both dairies sell cheese (Sfr1.98 cheese toSfr2.40Both dairiessell Cheese isstillproducedinacoupleofCheese A combined museum andchâteauA combinedmuseum ticket GRUYÈRE: FAST FACTS (a thick’nheartyvegetable andpotato 026 9211044;adult/childSfr5/3;

the rest. ofGruyère AmericaeatTwo-thirds isconsumed inSwitzerland; production theEUandNorth least 10months,and adeliciouslystrong-tastingmature to eightmonths,asalted A mild litres ayear. dairies intheFribourg, Neuchâtel, JuraandVaud cantons;Gruyères cowsyield5.7million Approximately 330million litres ofmilkare processedinto27,500tonsofcheesein200-odd nut, mint,woodshavings,hazelnuts, fresh grass…younameit,it’sthere. There are allegedly75different Alpinescentsin Gruyère cheese. Vanilla, orchid,violet, chest- wheelofGruyère. one35kg need400Lofmilktomake Cheese-makers A ofgrassand85Lwatercow consumes100kg adaytoproduce25Lofmilk. Maison duGruyère Maison (doux) Fromagerie d’AlpagedeMoléson Fromagerie soupe àl’oignon auGruyères , a17th-centuryAlpinechalet . Cheese-making takes place Cheese-making Gruyère islefttomature forfive tosixmonths,asemi-salted ( h

, atrailthattakes ( 10am-8.30pm Tue-Sun) % in Pringy,1.5km 026 9218400;www.la (salé) soupe ducha- h for nineto10months, areserve 9.30am-10pm h 9am- is CANTON DEFRIBOURG••Gruyères &Around raclettes Sfr28; inFrench; RueduChâteau53;fondues&-gruyeres.ch 10,LeGare Pâquier;s/d/trSfr60/90/120; 3.5km northwestof Gruyères. Pâquier FindLe families andself-caterers. and Andréwhorunthis years of forHedwige hardgrafthaspaidoff breakfast rates are forabathroom-cladroomwith a restored 19th-centurymanor. Nightly Le Pâquier Sleeping &Eating a 4km-long skiing fromtheMolésonpeak(2002m)and son village. Inwinter there downhill iseasy Botanique Sentier marked trails,includingagentle 1½-hour biking,withplentyofand mountain well- summer forviaferrata, go-karting,hiking 5km southwestof Gruyères, ispopularin Moléson-sur-Gruyères 1100m), (elevation Activities cooks up strictly poetic creations.cooks upstrictlypoetic touch. TheformerMichelin-starred chef spreads and theoddchandelier addanoble hefty beams,fireplaces, embroidered bed- motto atthisstylish 14-roominnwhere menus Sfr45&Sfr79) inFrench; s/dfromSfr130/180, .st-georges-gruyeres.ch posite. Its bells oronitsshaded Terrasse duChaletop- meats) inthiscosychalet strungwithcow Alpine fodder(fondue,raclette, grilled Plan-Francey (1520m)andthevillage. Hostellerie Saint-Georges Saint-Georges Hostellerie Chalet de Gruyères Chalet deGruyères (vieux) ( or % croûte enfromage h kitchenette, makingithandyfor sledge track 026 912 2025;www.lepatchi.ch;Ruedela 026 for atleast15months. (réserve ausurchoix) lunch &dinnerMon-Sun) ‘Sweet dreams’ ‘Sweet isthehouse (botanical trail)fromMolé- (botanical ( % 026 921 2154;www.chalet linking mid-station linking mid-station (mi-salé) ( % maison d’hôtes is super-loaded 026 921 8300;www 026 pi for seven for at Feast on ) Three 107

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& JURA & FRIBOURG, NEUCHÂTEL NEUCHÂTEL FRIBOURG, FRIBOURG, NEUCHÂTEL & JURA & 4pmMon,9am,11am,1.30pmTue-Fri) 6-12yr Sfr6.50/4; ( and spillsatthe thrills chocolate Wonka’s Willy Experience BROC &BULLE train at thevillage entrance. Anelectric viaAigle. Geneva the N11northfromLake N11 roadsouthtoGruyères. take Otherwise, bourg byBulle. Fromthere passes take the and Moléson. Gruyères withGruyères trainstation village adayconnect Oneortwobuses train station. Gruyères isa10-minute walkuphillfromits train (Sfr3.30, 15to20minutes) fromthere. to onehour)Bullethenhourlybusor hourly busortrain(Sfr16.80, 40minutes From Fribourg, Gruyères canbereached by &Around There Getting stuff. coffee comeswithawholepotof thecreamy thickest Gruyère doublecream while ever, with cheese,meringuescomethe 108 du Gruyère. thecarpark,châteaubetween andMaison Château; menusSfr33,Sfr41.50&Sfr43; from thewheyof Gruyère). etc, Sfr15) and chalet Halle isknownforitsmeal-sized touristythan some,AubergeLess dela are popular. courtes’ (Sfr12) for % Cars mustbeleftinthefreeCars parkingarea The N12motorwayfromVevey toFri- delaHalle Auberge open toall. the chapel,but chat –inthegreen surrounds. Sundayrecreation forshared debate. istheonlyotheropportunity the communityisallowed‘out’,monks dividingintotwogroupsfora3½-hourhike–and forests are allowedasimplebreakfast ofcheese. The rest wait untilmiddaytoeat.Onceaweek, They riseat5.30am,thoseassignedthedutyofchoppingwood,forheating,in thesurrounding cream-robed life fathersandbrothershere dedicated leadaspartan toprayerandmanualwork. of Charmey asthecrowflies. Behindhighwalls,wellawayfromtheoutsideworld, north monastery,only suchstill-functioning thesolitary13th-century monks wholiveSilence issweetforthe26Carthusian inalmostcomplete silenceinSwitzerland’s SOUNDS OFSILENCE CANTONDEFRIBOURG••Broc&Bulle 026 9215151;adult/under16Sfr4/free; The 62-cellmonastery cannotbevisited. Onlymencanattend Sundaymassat7.45amin ( (soupof cheese mushrooms,pasta, % (little gourmandsinshort trousers) 079 542 2830;www.petit-train.info;adult/ h ‘vos gastronomes enculottes Nestlé-Caillers chocolate factory chocolate Nestlé-Caillers 9am or 10am-7pm Mar-Oct) 9am or10am-7pmMar-Oct) ś erac

( Chapelle delaValsainte % ( fromage frais 026 9212178;Ruedu

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( % Cantorama Cantorama older onewithawoodshingleroof shelters .ch; Aug) Sfr20; let of men’ territory (the German-speaking est point. some aroundVanil Noir,theregion’s high- includingthe cablecar,hastraildetails, via the Rapido Skycablecar via theRapido 30km of downhillslopes(1630m)accessible The a haven forwalkers bikers. andmountain Tue-Sat, 2-5pmSun) adult/under/student 16Sfr6/free/5; inFrench; RuedelaCondémine25; www.musee-gruerien.ch tion 876m) of deFribourg. Canton From Brocitisapretty climbintothepre- &THESCHWARZSEECHARMEY and offices) its 13th-century hub forthearea, isworthabrieflookfor Bulle made –andfree samples. avideoofvisits comprise how chocolate is to get anywhere neartheproductionline; north of Gruyères inBroc.Butdon’texpect pass From Jaun theroadclimbsupto of jobinlife. thedeceased’s feature carvings datingfromthe1980stopresentcrosses has anunusualcemetery where wooden choral concerts. Thenewerchurch (1910) traditional Fribourgeois chants andhostto Head foranother11kmandyouhit east Five kilometres northwestof Gruyères, h 026 9271137), , asacred musiccentre withdisplayson , just inside Bern canton. , justinsideBern (elevation 771m), the main transport 771m),themaintransport (elevation h tourist office tourist sign isadeadgiveaway) andtheham- Jaun 2-6pm Tue-Sun) 2-5pm Sat & Sun May-Oct, 2-5pmTue2-5pm Sat&SunMay-Oct, &ThuJul with its twin-set of withitstwin-set churches. The ( %

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. Insummer,it’s ( Charmey 10am-noon & 2-5pm 10am-noon &2-5pm % 026 9127260; ‘Wilkom- , 6km (eleva- Jaun- the lake. where athree-hour marked trailleadsto ValsainteLa totheendof theroad,from mention apicnicinanigloo)ismagical. paths strollalongthesand evening (notto built solelyfromice. Illuminated an atnight, pinetrees palacesbetween – andcrystal toes construction of turrets, bridges, domes, grot- lake of Sfr6/3; and English-language fiction. guidebooks 8.30am-noonSat) Maps, 9am-6.30pm Tue-Fri, www.lonelyplanet.com Payot Librairie Payot Librairie BOOKSHOP Information here beSwitzerland’spurest. issaid discover onfoot whiletheFrench spoken (free to commune)–iscompactenough town –complete withspirited charming.disarmingly Thesmalluniversity line of itsglittering lake makes Neuchâtel gay lakeside airthatbreezes alongtheshore- Gallic nonchalance of itscafé-life and the elegance,theairy Its OldTownsandstone 430m pop 31,740/elevation NEUCHÂTEL this ruralland. bang nextdoor,French is of Three(Land trio. Lakes) WithFrance Neuchâtel fallsintothe Pays deTroisLacs ‘’ touristtrail. Locle–remain Le firmlyontheso-called other large Chaux-de-Fondsand towns–La since the18thcenturyandcanton’stwo industry amainstay Watch-making hasbeen tothenorthandwest. rise plump onitsnorthernshore andthegentle Neuchâtel capital sits Switzerland. Canton Neuchâtel –thelargest lake entirely within west of de itsFribourg counterpart, isLac km canton(population166,500),north- The focusof thisheavily forested 800sq CANTON DENEUCHÂTEL Eis Paläste EisPaläste 2km northof thevillage isKarl Neuhaus’ ter skiingandsummertimehiking.About forwin- 1046m,amagical setting elevation Another fascinatingtripistodrive past Northeast of Charmeyis the mountain Together withBielandMurten lakes, h Schwarzsee Schwarzsee 2-9.30pm Wed-SunDec-Mar) (Ice Palace; (Rue du Seyon; (Rue duSeyon; % (Black Lake; www.schwarzsee.ch) (Black Lake; 026 419 1180;adult/under16 h the 1.30-6.30pm Mon, , a fantastical , afantastical comune libre language of , are marked aroundtownandanelectric Sat & Sun May, Jun & Sep, dailyJul&Aug) Jun&Sep, Sat &SunMay, de Hochberg5;admissionSfr1; de l’Hôpital) 8pm) Apr-Sep) tours hourlybtwn10am-noon &2-4pmMon-Sat,Sun the citygate toview themedieval walk through original intheMuséed’Artetd’Histoire. the largely Gothic Scale itforlake andAlpineviews.Inside Fontaine duBanneret anything fromabanner-wielding knight, fanciful gold-leafed toppedby fountains 18th-century mansionsandstuddedwith The streets are linedbyfine,shuttered OLD TOWN&CHÂTEAU ( Eight Sights office Tourist TOURIST INFORMATION PostOffice Central POST Salon LavoirLavmatic LAUNDRY around the castle’sinnards. (45 minutes) allow youtopoke yournose can wanderin.Summertime guidedtours around 45minutes. whichtiny feet aroundthemainsights, takes representing Justice, Mon-Fri, 8.30am-noonSat) Mon-Fri, .ch; Hôtel des Postes, Pl du Port; .ch; HôteldesPostes,PlduPort; château the cathedralwasobliged toswapsides. the Reformationtotown,following which ofis astatue GuillaumeFarel, whobrought loomslarge.apse) Facing themainentrance thetripleRomanesque elements(notably Mon-Fri, 9-4pmSat,10am-2pmSunJul&Aug) Mon-Fri, 9am-noonSatSep-Jun, 5.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6.30pm % Heading uphillalongRueduChâteau, Behind thechurch isthe15th-centuryBehind CANTON DENEUCHÂTEL••Neuchâtel ficial forallofSwitzerland. time-check givesNeuchâtel’s townobservatory theof- DID YOUKNOW 032 adult/childSfr6/3; 889 6890;PlduPort; Tour desPrisons promenades touristiques withapretty shadycourtyard you

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& JURA & FRIBOURG, NEUCHÂTEL NEUCHÂTEL FRIBOURG, ὈὈ FRIBOURG, NEUCHÂTEL & JURA 16 Sfr7/free, Wedfree; 2;adult/under inFrench; EsplanadeLéopoldRobert .mahn.ch the month at 2pm, 3pm and 4pm. the monthat2pm,3pmand4pm. androids are activated onthefirst Sundayof plest, witharepertoire of sixdrawings.The on areal organ. isthesim- TheDraughtsman ters, whiletheMusicianplaysuptofive tunes pen inaninkpotandwrite upto40charac- The Writer canbeprogrammedtodiphis 1764 and1774bywatchmaker Jaquet Droz. for three clockworkandroidsmadebetween 12 Septembre isonebigplayground,while The portbuzzeswithsummerfun.Pldu Activities e h T D’HISTOIREMUSÉE D’ARTET 110 19 Rue Jehanne de Hochberg La ChauxdeFonds(19km) (1km); HotelPalafitte(3km); To LaMaisonduPrussien Yverdon-les-Bains (38km) Colombier (5km); To N5Motorway; 4 1 3 Pierre-à-Bot 2 NEUCHÂTEL To Pintede (2.5km) CANTONDENEUCHÂTEL••Neuchâtel Art & History Museum Museum &History Art SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Neuchâtel Roule...... Musée d'Artetd'Histoire...... Marine ServiceLoisirs...... Fontaine delaJustice...... Église Collégiale...... Château...... (see 5) Tourist Office...... Salon LavoirLavmatic...... Central PostOffice...... ao irii...... B3 Payot Librairie......

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Sfr490/660; .ch; RoutedesGouttes-d’Or2;paviliononthe lake/shore Sfr210/255, mains/menuSfr38/49; inFrench; EsplanadeduMontBlanc1;s/dfrom -rivage-hotel.ch .festineuch.com inFrench). Weekend rates are competitive. Sfr11 for24hours) as roomswithWi-Fi(Sfr5 per30minutes, ised 1872 markets modern- its30comfortable this stately 19th-centuryhotel datingfrom www.lonelyplanet.com Hôtel del’Ecluse Hôtel Sleeping jiving duringJune’sopen-air tember. Jazz, thelakeside popandrockset Baptiste Molinari.BreakfastBaptiste costsSfr24. as are theculinarywonders of chef Jean- gardens, thismajestic shipof ahotel isab fab– thelakeOverlooking andsculpture-studded to lounge in. and there are acoupleof terraces forguests inthebar kitchenettes. Breakfast isserved rooms withbrassbeds,elegantdécorand boastsmodernised yes, butthisfinehouse commercialbuildings, Squished inbetween view Sfr150/210; lac.ch 2;s/dSfr125/180,withlake inFrench; PldelaGare fast costs Sfr30. and bathrooms spillinginto thelake. Break- units have aterrace, fully-equipped office and remote-control Lakeside everything. screens, Jacuzzipavilions toutplasma TV Monruz –willthrill.Stylish self-contained of art3kmwestof Neuchâtel centre in Neuchâtel’s otherfive-star wonder–a work ogy andarchitecture are yourthingthen .ch; Ruedel’Ecluse24;s/dfromSfr100/150; Hôtel Beau Rivage BeauRivage Hôtel Hotel Palafitte Palafitte Hotel AlpesetLac Hôtel behind thecommune. no tomorrow,are butsomeofthespirited festivals celebrated withgustobythebohemiansouls not tomentiontheannualFête desVendages inlate September there’s whenthewineflowslike the unofficialstreet totheofficialone. signpinnedupnext ‘voir d’unœilsentirdel’autre’ des Chavannes,otherwisedubbedRuePeintres (Painters’ motto St)withthefree-thinking trio ofOldTownstreets –RuedeNeubourg, RuedesFausses-Brayes frescoed Rue andcolourfully Foundedin1979,itembracesa commune since1920)–boilsdowntoagoodexcuseparty. Neuchâtel’s so-called LIFE INTHECOMMUNE Surroundings; www.leneubourg.ch inFrench) Various jazzfestivals, February’s Fête delaChandeleur,June’sFête del’ÉtéetalMusique, pna pai

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032 7299310;www.hoteldelecluse ) ( % If cutting-edge technol- ( 032 7230203;www.palafitte % bon chic contemporain. ) Commune Libre duNeubourg etAlentours Opposite the station, Opposite thestation, 032 7231919;www.alpeset 032 723 1515;www.beau pnais FestiNeuch (look withoneeye,feel withtheother)scribedasafootnote on pi –agoodmate ofParis’ (aself-declared Montmartre free (www ) )

Sat) Treille 7;lunchmenuSfr16.50,mainsSfr15-35; Sat) deshalles.com; PldesHalles;mainsfromSfr35; à-Bot 106; starters/mains Sfr10/25,fonduefor2Sfr28-32) à-Bot 106;starters/mains the green was moved inthe 1970sandthe it. Builtin 1928asthetown’s golfclubhouse, a shortdrive fromthetowncentre butworth ambience. with gastronomicdininginan18th-century 1765 and1770,itregalesdens. Builtbetween like a mini-Versailles over manicured gar- from Sfr30; -prussien.ch; AuGorduVauseyon, RuedesTunnels 11;mains the signs. following head downthestairs toyourright and 1 fromPlPury,get offatBeauregard Hop aboard Cormondrèche-bound busNo brook, isatreat –andithasgreat roomstoo. dled bytheimpetuousbabblingof anearby bywoodsandcra- enclosed grand oldhouse, starter). neuchâteloise chaude Local specialitiesincludetripeand Eating menus Sfr79-139; .ch inFrench; Ave Sfr20/50, DuPeyrou 1;starters/mains sion. CuisineisFrench. Halles insideaturreted 16th-centuryman- tel-style tripe) to fill. spot couldn’tbemore local.Foodiscooked doused ingoatcheese sauce. doused rösti areetarians wellcatered forwithvegetable Pinte de Pierre-à-Bot dePierre-à-Bot Pinte Hôtel DuPeyrou Hôtel Jura Le Brasserie La Maison duPrussien La Maison Maison desHalles Maison CANTON DENEUCHÂTEL••Neuchâtel Gourmands plump for tasty Maison Gourmandsplumpfortasty des Withanamelike thishot JuraBrasserie, , veg-stuffed ravioli orsix-cereal ravioli Tripes àla NeuchâteloiseTripes h Mon-Sat) h

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& JURA & FRIBOURG, NEUCHÂTEL NEUCHÂTEL FRIBOURG, FRIBOURG, NEUCHÂTEL & JURA sonduconcert.ch inFrench; Ruedel’HôtelVille4) sonduconcert.ch and artshows. brewery withlive music,occasionalcinema reaux 7) 5pm-1am or2amTue-Sun) French; RueduRâteau; boats to/fromEstavayer-le-Lac (Sfr16.20, 1¾ gation sur les Lacs de Neuchâtel etMorat gation surlesLacsdeNeuchâtel From May orJunetoOctober, BOAT &Away There Getting Paradox Entertainment Migros Marché Coop garlic andkirsch. due Neuchâteloise ness, champagne, curryand1000herbs. for its20fonduesincludingoneswithGuin- turnedintoarestaurantclubhouse –famed 112 h Sfr10-15;QuaiPhilippeGodet16; .ch inFrench; concerts à l’étage steel spacewithdancefloordownstairs, bar groove…anythingtal atthistrendy goes 729 96 00; www.navig.ch in French; Port delaVille) 729 9600;www.navig.ch inFrench; Port ised oldtheatreised withplanstoopenabistro. William’s La Maison du Concert duConcert La Maison La Case àChocs La Case Central supermarkets: Central was taken overwas taken in1986. bythe self-dubbed‘architects oftime’, Ebelluxurywatch-makers, trail thatLaChaux’s sion free; for ’ brightlights. Twoyearslater hisparents, ofthehouse,left. unableto affordtheupkeep Walter GropiusandtheBauhaus movement, lived inthehouseuntil1917whenheleftSwitzerland house’), forhisparents. The architect who,afew yearslater wouldbecomeaseriouspalofGermany’s architectural officeandbuildVilla Jeanneret-Perret, otherwisecalled LaMaisonBlanche(‘thewhite Soviet-style grid-planclearlyfounditswaysomewhere intohisyoungpsyche. architect’sbreaking real name) spent hischildhoodintheclock-making townwhoseconcrete, atRuedelaSerrewas borninLaChaux-de-Fonds 38.CharlesEdouardJeanneret (theground- Few knowthatLe Corbusier (1887–1965,see p35 ), invariablyperceived asFrench ratherthanSwiss, KINGTHE CONCRETE and openedittovisitors. 2000 bytheAssociation MaisonBlanchewhichhasrestored themodernarchitecture treasure for years,’s familyhomewasmadeahistoricmonumentin1979andadopted in ofthetrain stationalongAveminute walknorth hasinformationon.Derelict Léopold Robert, Thu-Sun) CANTONDENEUCHÂTEL••AroundNeuchâtel (Rue delaTreille 4) La Maison Blanche After briefstintsintheOrientandBerlin,Le Corbusierreturned toLaChauxin1912openan Mediterranean-inspired Modestdisco-pubinthecommune.

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(www.villa-blanche.ch; ChemindePouillerel) 032 7258588;RuedesTer- 032 7242122;www.mai Villa Turque SociétédeNavi- ( Revital- %

( % ( % 032 889 6895;[email protected]; Espacité1,PlLe Corbusier), a Fon- runs runs 032 032 032 912 3131;www.ebel.chinFrench; RueduDoubs167;admis- 032 the otherLaChaux houseLe Corbusierdesigned, and PlPury. journey. BusNo6linksthetrainstation driver), dependingonthelengthof the Sfr1.70 toSfr2.50 (Sfr0.40 more from the 20 minutes). two perhourrunto/fromYverdon (Sfr13.40, 20 minutes) andotherdestinations.Around (Sfr34,utes), 1½hours), Basel Biel(Sfr11.40, viaKerzershours), Bern (Sfr17.60, 35min- (Sfr37, 1¼to1½ trains runto/fromGeneva walk northeastof theOldTown,hourly then take the13-minute panoramic From Neuchâtel ridebusNo7to Coudre, La up viewsacrossthethree lakes totheAlps. Chaumont Inland Day tripsfromNeuchâtel abound. AROUND NEUCHÂTEL kiosk lois information&ticket where hittransporthubPlPuryLocal buses Around Getting From the TRAIN enne; Sfr26, 2½hours). Murten (Sfr18.20, 1¾ hours) andBiel(Bi- hours), Yverdon-les-Bains (Sfr25, 2½hours), Mon-Fri, 8.30-11.30amSat) Mon-Fri, 58; www.tnneuchatel.chinFrench; PlPury; Transports PublicduLittoralNeuchâte- Transports (1160m) is a beautiful spot to soak (1160m) isabeautifulspottosoak isoneof11pointsonaCorbusier train station (Ave delaGare) islocated. Tickets cost www.lonelyplanet.com (TN; (TN; , a 10-minute , a10-minute % h 032 720 06 032 720 funicular funicular five- 7am-6pm Sun) French; adult/7-16yr/familySfr9/4/20; Sfr10/6/22; 29;adult/12-18yr/family.ch inFrench; RuedesMusées Sat &SunApr–mid-Dec) 23 83;adult/childSfr5/3; www.lonelyplanet.com tel, be sampled. hasalistofoffice cellars where winecan since the10thcentury.Neuchâtel tourist on thenorthwestshore deNeuchâtel of Lac Family-scale vineyardshave clothedthe hills Along theLake ( from local prehistory totheRenaissance. Chaux-de-Fonds(Sfr10.40, 30minutes). La Hourly trainsrunfromNeuchâtel to/from mountain. national d’Horlogerie ufactures timepiecestoday.Its the 18thand19thcenturiesstillsman- as thecentre of precision watch-making in nameinEurope plan townwasahousehold Thedrabgrid- (and Switzerland’shighest). (population 38,500),thecanton’slargest city sons topush northwest to minutes). bus lineVfromPlPurytoValangin (seven from 2pmto5pm.Take Villars-bound TN made onthefirst Sundayof each month tel laceworkwhich youcanwatch being riod furniture, arms,artworkandNeuchâ- presents awhite turreted % At Hauterive, 3km northeastof Neuchâ- About 2kmbeyondNeuchâtel, Clocks and Le CorbusierareClocks andLe theonlyrea- Môtiers) the quicklyfollowedand inMarch2005,followingSwitzerland’s liftingofitsabsintheban,extract) in wormwood,saidtobetherootofabsinthe’sdevilishnature). An (instead of50%to75%)andwhichscarcelycontainedthujone(theoffensive chemicalfound zerland’s firstlegalaniseedliqueursince1910–albeitonewhichwasonly45%proofalcohol ground. In1990thegreat-grandson distillerinMôtierscameupwithSwit- ofapre-prohibition ‘devilinthebottle’Valaniseed drink,distillersoftheso-called deTravers moved under- distillery heopenedjustafew acrosstheFrench–Swiss kilometres borderinPontarlier). (although itwasaFrenchman calledPernod whomadethebitter green liqueurknownwith the des Fées(Fairyland) –that absinthe wasfirstdistilledin1740andproducedcommercially1797 depthsofCouvetIt wasinthedeepestdarkest intheVal deTravers –otherwisedubbedthePays THE GREENFAIRY grown wormwood. Mix one part crystal-clear liqueur with five parts water itgreen. crystal-clearliqueurwithfive tomake parts onepart grown wormwood.Mix isanarchaeological trip backintime 032 720 0600;oneway/return Sfr4.60/9.20) Laténium From 1910,followingSwitzerland’s alcoholicandruthlesslybitter prohibitionofthewickedly Blackmint –Distillerie Kübler& Wyss distilled itsfirsttrueandauthenticbatchofthemythical h

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& JURA & FRIBOURG, NEUCHÂTEL NEUCHÂTEL FRIBOURG, FRIBOURG, NEUCHÂTEL & JURA 1448m. green plains,forest and,finally,acrest at h admission byguidedtouradult/child/family Sfr12/7/28; Roches 17th-century River makes foranunusualdayoutatthe terranean water flowingintotheDoubs outof therocktoexploitsub- mills carved des Monts,tick. l’Horlogerie duLocle l’Horlogerie all mannerof clocksmake the Chaux-de-Fonds. .ch) innearbyLa by Jean Richard (www.danieljeanrichard to belentluxurywatches manufactured ture of timepieceshere. Hisnamecontinues acottage industryinthemanufac- tablished when DanielJean-Richard (1665–1741)es- town business begantickinginthisstraggly Incredibly, thewholelucrative Swiss watch 950m pop 10,315/elevation LocleLe inspirational. here –the Neuchâteloises –Montagnes ers, walkers andcyclistswillfindthehills Vaud inthesouthwest.Cross-country ski- ( right de ) tothenortheastandintoCanton stretches fromthecanton of name thesame chainthe lowmountain of theJura,which The westof thecantonisdominated by MONTAGNES NEUCHÂTELOISES carons castle, absinthedistilleryand minutes), you reach trainfromNeuchâtelsame (Sfr10.40, 35 depending ontheroute youfollow. round-trip hike cantake uptofive hours 114 de-Fonds. Chaux- minutes, atleast hourly)fromLa vine bustoget here. west of Locle. Take Le Bré- Locle–La theLe Sfr5/2; through the through ring walk(around4½hours) takes you mediately southfromhere anothergreat Im- a localarts,craftsandhistorymuseum. May-Oct, 2-5pmTue-Sun Nov-Apr) May-Oct, 65; adult/10-18yr/familySfr7/4/17; 931 1680;www.mhl-monts.ch inFrench; RoutedesMonts About of 2kmwest,aseries underground Grand 18th-centuryroomsfilledwith Continuing alongtheN10oron Le Locle is8kmbytrain(Sfr3.20, sixLe 10am-5pm May-Oct, 2-5pmTue-Sun Nov-Apr) 10am-5pm May-Oct, CANTONDEJURA h ( ( % % 2.30-5.30pm Tue, Thu,Sat&SunMay–mid-Oct) 032 931 8989;www.lesmoulins.ch inFrench; 032 14;adult/child 861 3551;Grande-Rue Gorges delaPoëtaRaisse Gorges Moulins Souterrains

(Watchmaking Museum; Museum; (Watchmaking Môtiers h , insideChâteau withitspretty 10am-5pm Tue-Sun Maison desMas- Maison

du LeCol-des- Musée de Musée to high tohigh , 2km % 032 , (Sfr3.20, seven minutes)(Sfr3.20, are seven frequent. three dailyinApril,May andOctober. (oneway/returnto September Sfr7/12), and the waterfall upto11timesadayfromJune returning toFrench territory. making aloopinsideSwitzerlandandthen thetwocountriesbeforeborder between fromhere,ern course theriver formsthe northwest- the next45kmonitsserpentine LesBrenets , widensoutatthepeacefulvillage of DoubsRiver, whichLe springsforthinside Locle.A scenicexcursion lies6kmfromLe &SautduDoubs Brenets Les tel and Canton deVaudtel andCanton intotheHaut- deNeuchâ- extends Canton souththrough the low Jura mountains. green oneanotheracross clearings succeed villages, forests whiledeep andimpossibly –areits capital littlemore thanenchanting come last.Itsgrandesttowns– including mysterious peripheralregion thathasalways ulation 69,100)isamore-rural-than-rural, ver-shaped deJura(840sqkm,pop- Canton The northernmostof thethree cantons,clo- CANTON DEJURA .nlb.ch) easy hour’s walk back to .easy hour’swalkbacktoLes Saut duDoubswaterfall. Fromhere it’san river (aboutanhour)untilyoureach the It graduallyclimbsawayfromthelake and and followthetrailalongitssouthernshore. thewoodsto downhill through about anhourto the forest inwinter) for trail(impassable the gentle green countrysideof France. Take a bendontheDoubswithviewsacrossto above(1075m), amagnificentpointhigh slopesabovesteep theriver tothe on theedge of theforest onthe thatstands road). Fromhere youheadacrossaclearing (most easilyreached alonganarrowasphalt Brenets, RecrettesLes followsignsforLes ers prefer might agreat 4½-hourloop.From the river cascades27mtoanaturalpool.Hik- Doubs side) theriver willbringyoutothe Brenets Trains from Le Locle to Les Brenets LocletoLes Trains fromLe About aone-hourwalkalong While the Jura mountain rangeWhile theJuramountain proper For non-walkers, , asplendidcrashingwaterfall where runsregular Brenets boatsfromLes to (Lac deChaillexonontheFrench (Lac , justinsideSwiss territory. For Roches deMoron NLB www.lonelyplanet.com

( % 032 9321414;www Lac deMoron , thenhead Belvédère Belvédère Lac des Saut du

10am-4pm Sat) .ch; RuedelaGruère 1; tions, includingfarm-based B&Bs. ample informationonaccommodationop- rafting mecca. 8km westof and Saignelégier,isacanoeing Swiss–French inFrance) border(officially leux trio of hamlets: www.lonelyplanet.com lation of 2140, The DoubesRiver itsnortherntip. kisses bikingandcross-countryskiing. mountain kled withhamletsandisidealforwalking, 1000m–issprin- undulating atroughly northern endof theJurarange, thearea – Heavily forested hillcountrymarking the ‘free inthe14thcentury. tamed mountains’ un- onlybegantricklingintothese Settlers FRANCHES MONTAGNES information. canton, isthemainportof callfortourist north of Neuchâtel inthesouthof the its Jurassicheartlies.Saignelégier,45km Jura inneighbouring France,itishere that change atGlovelier). (Sfr26, 1½witha almost hourly) andBasel Chaux-de-Fonds(Sfr13.40, 35minutes, La rental costs€6for 1½hours. the SwissJura.canoe/kayak Straightfoward Ursanne (€45,ninehours over twodays)in (€27,fourtofive hours) andSt- kayaking tripsalongtheDoubsRiver to ist office, nual long unlessyou’re intownforAugust’san- the maintown,won’tholdyourinterest for des Seignottes) des Seignottes) 30, 0681240203;www.goumois.com inFrench; Chemin For At an elevation ofAt anelevation 1000mandwithapopu- Saignelégier is on the train line between Saignelégier ison thetrainlinebetween Locle ( opposite ) andLes Brenets ( opposite covers theJuraBernoisandasfarsouthLe). JournalièreCarte ArcJurassien (Sfr25)also and busesfor24hours. Canton aside,the travel trains onCheminsdeFer duJura(CJ) nalière Région CJ(Sfr16), Jour-train inaday,youshouldgetCarte If youare intending totravel alotbybusor CENT SAVER , 7kmsouth. Marché-Concours cross-country skiing Jura Tourisme , 6kmsouthwest;or raie aoig rfig and rafting canoeing, organises covers thewholeJuraandhas Saignelégier Saignelégier Goumois Évasion Montfaucon Goumois h , a horse show.The tour-, ahorse 9am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon &2-6pmMon-Fri,

( % , take yourpickof a

allowing unlimited , bang-slaponthe 090 1123400;crs@jura (www.saignelegier.ch) , 5kmnortheast; ( % 03 814421 Les Breu- , CANTON DEJURA••FranchesMontagnes hang-gliders. road to along awinding(andinwinter snowbound) Villiers. Thefirst turnleft(east)takes you then followtheminorroadsouthtowards south of SaignelégierintheJuraBernois, cally located centre of pilgrimage. Bieler See andtheAlps,headto Bieler See (Sfr4.60, poodle 12minutes) and buses mont (Sfr6.60, 20 minutes) andPorrentruy 1km eastof thetowncentre, withDelé- Tourisme down onkayakingtheDoubs, hit information, accommodationand thelow- bridge over the DoubsRiver. Fortourist 16th-century towngates andalovely stone the church are clustered the ancienthouses, cloister isacool,soothingretreat. Around flank andanintriguingcrypt.The Gothic onitssouthern splendid Romanesqueportal Collégiale site of thepresent grand,12th-century a smallcentre of worship existed here onthe the Doubs River. As earlyasthe7thcentury StUrsanne onthenorthbankofmedieval villagethe mostdelightful inthecanton– takes beautifulcountrysideto youthrough A pretty 30-minute motorwestof Delémont 430m pop 870/elevation St Ursanne etd’Histoire d’Art manor).The a grandstately de StMarcel tiled roofs over peeping 18th-century toppedbyimprobably tall houses uneven of awhiff years goneby,withpreserves the Scheulte River ismodest.ItsOldTown moored deJura’scapital alongside Canton 413m pop 11,490/elevation Delémont farfrom theFrenchnever frontier. other are strungoutacrossnorthernJura, Three townswithineasyreach of onean- JURA NORTHERN town tothe ists canfollowthesigns3kmnorthoutof furnishings. Motor-traditional household and objects fromvarious Jurachurches and hodgepodge of localpaintings,religious art 52; adult/childSfr6/free; For panoramic views across the Jura, the For panoramicviewsacrosstheJura, Trains linkStUrsanne trainstation, Le Chasseral

, amostlyGothicchurch witha ( % andtheso-called 032 461 37 16; Rue du Quartier 18) 032 4613716;RueduQuartier Chapelle deVorbourg

( % (1607m),alaunch padfor h 032 4228077;Ruedu23Juin 2-5pm Tue-Sun) Musée Jurassien Musée château St Imier , adramati- displaysa (really ,

. 18km 18km Église

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115 Jura

& JURA & FRIBOURG, NEUCHÂTEL NEUCHÂTEL FRIBOURG, FRIBOURG, NEUCHÂTEL & JURA © LonelyPlanetPublications the above - ‘Do the right thingwithourcontent.’ the above -‘Dotheright thetermsandconditions onoursiteforalongerwayofsaying youknow,orresell it.See everyone site,mass emailitto only. Inotherwords, pleasedon’tuploadthischapterto apeer-to-peer Inreturn, wethinkit’sfair toaskyouuseitforpersonal,non-commercial purposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. iteasier foryoutouse,accessthischapterisnotdigitally Tomake government offices. 18th-century structures nowoccupiedby de Refouss different periods).Thirteenth-century château against adramaticbackdropof thebulky buildings linethemainstreet, GrandRue, into France–pretty Porrentruy. Fineold last Juratownof before importance heading forestquickly through andintoaplaintothe From ColdelaCroix,theroaddipsdown 425m pop 6750/elevation Porrentruy the ColdelaCroix(789m). andpicturesquesteep uphilltrailnorthto dozen; tofootitPorrentruy pickupthe nearby villages. Walkingtrailsare adime along narrowcountryroadstoandfrom 116 .porrentruy.ch inFrench) timetovisit The tastiest motion, vaguelyreminiscent ofthemonks’tonsure. Nowadays,the which one‘slices’them.Aknife isusedtoscrapeshavingsoffthetopofcheeseinacircular and dubbedthem theirleave.Bellelay totake The troopersfound apileofthesecylindricalcheesesinthecellars of Bellelayormonks’cheese. In1792revolutionary troopsmarchedin,obliging themonksof have producedastrong,nuttyflavoured cheese. UntiltheFrench Revolutionitwentbythename ofTavannesfrom Canton deJura,8kmnorth ontheN30highwaybetweenMoutier andStImier) For eightcenturies,villagesaroundthe acrosstheborder Bellelay AbbeyintheJuraBernois(just MONKS’ HEADS over theJuraandaniftydevice, CANTON DE JURA •• Northern Jura CANTONDEJURA••Northern (really of at aset buildingsraised stands aloof stands amid thevarious isduringits têtes demoine Porrentruy (monks’ heads).Perhaps theyhadinmindthecuriousway Fête dela Fête girolle

(www Tour has beeninvented tosliceit. 15 15;Ruedu23Juins/dfromSfr100/170) Hôtel delaPoste Hôtel clad, three-star the more upmarket Churchill Pub–andclub- sonable roomsandabaropenuntil3am; 15; s/dfromSfr80/150) 10am-4pm Sat) GrandRue5; German; isme sages, coldmeatsandpuddings. togorgeexcuse onallsortsof yourself sau- year. Now,asthen,thefestival isafabulous ber, markingtheendof therural working ond Sundayafter AllSaints’DayinNovem- Saint Martin neighbouring villages intheAjoie plains. serve to StUrsanne andDelémont.Buses de fromage town, bakeries cookupsensational Accommodation is abundant and includes Accommodation isabundant andincludes Trains proceed fairlyregularlyTrains proceed southeast

( % 032 466 59 59; www.juratourisme.ch inFrench & 032 4665959;www.juratourisme.ch , acenturies’oldfeast onthesec- (cheesecake) on Friday morning. (cheesecake) onFridaymorning. have more information.

têtedemoine Hôtel du Cheval Blanc duCheval Hôtel ( % , which hasabunch of rea- h 032 466 18 27; Rue des Malvoisins 032 4661827;RuedesMalvoisins 9am-noon & 1.30-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon &1.30-6pmMon-Fri, www.lonelyplanet.com isproducedall

. Allover ( Jura Tour- % gâteau gâteau 032 466 032 466

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