Oulu, Kainuu & Koillismaa

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Includes  Why Go? Oulu ...... 209 Stretching across Finland’s waist from the Gulf of Bothnia to Kajaani...... 216 the long Russian border, this broad swath of territory takes Paltaniemi...... 217 in Oulu’s technology boffins and brown bears raising their Kuhmo...... 217 shaggy heads as they patrol the eastern forests. It offers some of the nation’s most memorable outdoor experiences, Kuusamo & Ruka. . 220 from birdwatching and beachcombing in the west to skiing, Karhunkierros canoeing and trekking in the east. Trek & Oulanka The further you get from Oulu, the more remote things National Park . . . . 223 become. Kainuu is a heavily wooded wilderness and impor- River Routes Around tant animal habitat traversed by the famed UKK trekking Kuusamo...... 225 route. Koillismaa, near the Russian border, is the transition- Juuma ...... 226 al region between the south and Lapland, and includes Ou- lanka National Park, one of Finland’s natural highlights. It is an area of tumbling rivers, isolated lakes and dense forests. This is perhaps Finland’s best destination for getting active Best Places in the great outdoors, whether in summer or winter. to Eat ¨¨Hella (p212) ¨¨Ravintola Hugo (p213) When to Go ¨¨Riipisen Riistaravintola Oulu (p222) °C/°F Te mp Rainfall inches/mm 30/86 6/150

20/68 4/100 Best Places to 10/50 Stay 0/32 2/50 ¨¨Hotel Lasaretti (p212) -10/14

¨¨Luotsihotelli (p215) -20/-4 0 J FDM A M J J A S O N ¨¨Kartanohotelli Karolineburg (p216) Apr Still good Jul Bear-watching Sep The most ¨¨Royal Hotel Ruka (p222) snow cover for in Kuusamo, ca- beautiful time skiing, but accept- noeing in Oulanka for hiking, with ¨¨Hotelli Kalevala (p219) able temperatures National Park and autumn ruska ¨¨Basecamp Oulanka (p226) and plenty of light. chamber music in colours filling the Kuhmo. forests. Oulu, Kainuu & Koillismaa OULU 209

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/· EN ED /· SW Ma Ha # Na spot spot to forests evening (p221) bears brown their boisterous or meet 2 Oulu, Kainuu & Koillismaa Highlights 1 the Karhunkierros the Karhunkierros trekking National in Oulanka trail some through (p223), Park wilderness finest Finland’s of scenery Yl Pe Ra e 8 #\ #\ /· carious journey to Oulu, whence downriver nationsit was shipped to the boat-building of Europe. The merchants prospered, and Oulu still has a sleek, cosmopolitan vibe History The region reflects its tar-producing history. the 19thIn century the remote Kainuu and areas began producing tar fromKoillismaa the pre on sent it and pines, numerous the