Safety Assessment of Red Algae-Derived Ingredients As Used in Cosmetics
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Safety Assessment of Red Algae-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics Status: Tentative Report for Public Comment Release Date: March 23, 2021 Panel Meeting Date: September 13 - 14, 2021 All interested persons are provided 60 days from the above release date (i.e., May 22, 2021) to comment on this safety assessment and to identify additional published data that should be included or provide unpublished data which can be made public and included. Information may be submitted without identifying the source or the trade name of the cosmetic product containing the ingredient. All unpublished data submitted to the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) will be discussed in open meetings, will be available at the CIR office for review by any interested party and may be cited in a peer-reviewed scientific journal. Please submit data, comments, or requests to the CIR Executive Director, Dr. Bart Heldreth. The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety members are: Chair, Wilma F. Bergfeld, M.D., F.A.C.P.; Donald V. Belsito, M.D.; David E. Cohen, M.D.; Curtis D. Klaassen, Ph.D.; Daniel C. Liebler, Ph.D.; Lisa A. Peterson, Ph.D.; Ronald C. Shank, Ph.D.; Thomas J. Slaga, Ph.D.; and Paul W. Snyder, D.V.M., Ph.D. Previous Panel member involved in this assessment: James G. Marks, Jr., M.D. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Executive Director is Bart Heldreth, Ph.D. This safety assessment was prepared by Priya Cherian, Scientific Analyst/Writer, CIR. © Cosmetic Ingredient Review 1620 L Street, NW, Suite 1200 ♢ Washington, DC 20036-4702 ♢ ph 202.331.0651 ♢ fax 202.331.0088 ♢ [email protected] ABSTRACT The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) assessed the safety of red algae-derived ingredients; 60 red algae-derived ingredients were found in the web-based International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook (wINCI; Dictionary), however, several of these ingredients may be equivalent according to accepted scientific names. These ingredients are mostly reported to function as skin-conditioning agents. Impurities, particularly arsenic, heavy metals, and pesticides, may be present in these ingredients; industry should continue to use good manufacturing practices to monitor and limit these possible impurities. The Panel considered the available data and concluded that 11 red algae-derived ingredients are safe in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentration described in this safety assessment. The Panel also concluded that the data are insufficient to make a determination of safety that the remaining 49 ingredients are safe under the intended conditions of use in cosmetic formulations. INTRODUCTION The safety of the following 60 red algae ingredients, as used in cosmetics, is reviewed in this assessment. Ahnfeltiopsis Concinna Extract Gracilariopsis Chorda Extract Asparagopsis Armata Extract Grateloupia Livida Powder Betaphycus Gelatinum Extract Hydrolyzed Asparagopsis Armata Extract Botryocladia Occidentalis Extract Hydrolyzed Chondrus Crispus Extract Calliblepharis Ciliata Extract Hydrolyzed Corallina Officinalis Ceramium Kondoi Extract Hydrolyzed Corallina Officinalis Extract Ceramium Rubrum Extract Hydrolyzed Porphyra Yezoensis Chondracanthus Teedei Powder Hypnea Musciformis Extract Chondrus Crispus Kappaphycus Alvarezii Extract Chondrus Crispus Extract Lithothamnion Calcareum Extract Chondrus Crispus Powder Lithothamnion Calcareum Powder Corallina Officinalis Extract Lithothamnion Corallioides Powder Corallina Officinalis Powder Mesophyllum Lichenoides Extract Corallina Officinalis Thallus Extract Palmaria Palmata Extract Cyanidium Caldarium Extract Palmaria Palmata Powder Delesseria Sanguinea Extract Phymatolithon Calcareum Extract Digenea Simplex Extract Pikea Robusta Extract Dilsea Carnosa Extract Polysiphonia Lanosa Extract Furcellaria Lumbricalis Extract Porphyra Linearis Powder Gelidiella Acerosa Extract Porphyra Tenera Extract Gelidium Amansii Extract Porphyra Tenera Sporophyte Extract Gelidium Amansii Oligosaccharides Porphyra Umbilicalis Extract Gelidium Cartilagineum Extract Porphyra Umbilicalis Powder Gelidium Pulchrum Protein Porphyra Yezoensis Extract Gelidium Sesquipedale Extract Porphyra Yezoensis Powder Gigartina Skottsbergii Extract Porphyridium Cruentum Culture Conditioned Media Gigartina Stellata Extract Porphyridium Cruentum Extract Gloiopeltis Tenax Extract Porphyridium Purpureum Extract Gloiopeltis Tenax Powder Rhodymenia Palmata Extract Gracilaria Verrucosa Extract Sarcodiotheca Gaudichaudii Extract The majority of the ingredients in this review are extracts and powders derived from different species of red algae. Although a total of 60 International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredient (INCI) names identifying red-algae derived ingredients were found in the web-based International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook (wINCI Dictionary) several ingredients appear to be equivalent based on the accepted scientific name, as given in the definition.1 Accordingly, the total number of distinct cosmetic ingredients is 56. According to the Dictionary, these red-algae derived ingredients are mostly reported to function as skin-conditioning agents (Table 1).1 These ingredients are also reported to function as abrasives, antioxidants, exfoliants, skin protectants, skin bleaching agents, viscosity increasing agents, and anti-microbial agents. Several ingredients that are obtained from red algae, such as agar, carrageenan, hydrolyzed carrageenan, and hydrolyzed furcellaran, have been previously reviewed by the Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel).2 In 2015, it was concluded that these ingredients were considered safe in the present practices of use and concentration as described in that safety assessment; however, available data were insufficient in determining the safety of hydrolyzed carrageenan in cosmetic products. The full report on these ingredients can be accessed on the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) website (https://www.cir- safety.org/ingredients). This safety assessment includes relevant published and unpublished data that are available for each endpoint that is evaluated. Published data are identified by conducting an exhaustive search of the world’s literature. A listing of the search engines and websites that are used and the sources that are typically explored, as well as the endpoints that the Panel typically evaluates, is provided on the CIR website (https://www.cir-safety.org/supplementaldoc/preliminary-search-engines-and-websites; https://ewww.cir-safety.org/supplementaldoc/cir-report-format-outline). Unpublished data are provided by the cosmetics industry, as well as by other interested parties. These red algae-derived ingredients may contain hundreds of constituents, some of which may have the potential to cause toxic effects. In this assessment, the Panel will review the potential toxicity of each of the red algae ingredients as a whole, complex mixture. The names of the ingredients in this report are written in accordance with the INCI naming conventions, i.e., capitalized without italics or abbreviations. When referring to the algae from which ingredients are derived, the standard taxonomic practice of using italics is followed (e.g., Ahnfeltiopsis concinna). It is often not known how the substance being tested in a study compares to the cosmetic ingredient. In the report text, if it is known that the material being tested is a cosmetic ingredient, the INCI naming convention will be used (e.g., Asparagopsis Armata Extract). However, if it is not known that the test substance is the same as the cosmetic ingredient, the taxonomic naming conventions (e.g., an Asparagopsis armata extract) will be used. CHEMISTRY Definition The ingredients in this safety assessment are derived from various species of red algae. “Algae” is not a taxonomic group, but a functional group of convenience.3 Not all algae should be considered to be plant-like (seaweed; macroalgae). While some algae are seaweed, some are protozoa, and some are unique and belong in other kingdoms. However, these aquatic and oxygenic organisms are all part of the eclectic group called “algae.” Algae Identification There are several major groups of algae, commonly referred to as red algae (Rhodophyta), brown algae (Phaeophyceae), green algae (Chlorophyta), diatoms (Bacillariophyceae), chrysophytes (Chrysophyta), blue-green algae (Cyanophyta), dinoflagellates (Pyrrhophyta), and euglenoids (Euglenophyta). It should be noted that the red algae-derived ingredients reviewed in this report are a part of the Rhodophyta phylum; red algae should not be confused with members of the Pyrrhophyta family, which encompass the unicellular algae and protozoa responsible for harmful algal blooms, known as “red tide.” The various types of algae are arranged by storage products, pigmentation, and cell wall composition.3 The corresponding subclass, order, family, and genus for each of the red-algae ingredients are presented in Table 2. Red algae are of the kingdom Plantae, and are comprised of approximately 6100 species.4 These algae lack flagella, and range in size from thin films to filamentous membranous forms of 1 m. The color of red algae results from the presence of the pigments phycoerythrin and phycocyanin. Red algae store Floridean starch and floridoside, and the cells walls are made up of long-chain polysaccharide agars, carrageenans, and cellulose. General characteristics and the geographic distribution of several specific species of red algae that are included in this report are presented in Table 3.