02. THE MOVIDA MOVEMENT IN LA PALMA of his most common filming locations: the Room 09. FROM LA BOLSA STREET TO PUERTA DE It’s All About My Mother, however, that features one Built in the 1950s, it’s considered the most dense- bears little resemblance to the square that Pe- → Madrid: STREET AND THE SURROUNDING AREA Mate Alicia Hotel is the Decadance Academy in Talk ALCALÁ GATE of the most iconic scenes from Almodóvar’s films: ly inhabited group of buildings in Spain, with over dro immortalised in Tie Me Up! Tie Me Down! to Her, bar Manolete, which is now the restaurant in Teatro Bellas Artes is the theatre where Cecilia twenty thousand residents. in the 1990s, where Antonio Banderas’ charac- the ultimate With the money he earned at Telefónica, Pedro the Reina Victoria Hotel, appears in Talk to Her, and At the beginning of Live Flesh, set in 1960s Madrid Roth’s character waits for her son, so they can watch ter went to buy medicine on the black market. bought his first Super-8 camera, focusing all his the top-floor flat where Paco Rabal’s character lived under Franco’s regime, Pilar Bardem’s character A Streetcar Named Desire. The theatre opened in 16. LA ALMUDENA CEMETERY efforts on recording short films and soaking up the in Tie Me Up! Tie Me Down! can be found at number helps a young Penélope Cruz give birth on a bus. 1961 as the HQ of director José Tamayo’s company, Almodóvar muse cultural atmosphere of the Movida, the counter-cul- 6 in the square. Ironically, the two actresses are now mother-in-law and it was in fact Tamayo who introduced Spain to Together with the airport, this is the location that ap- tural movement that emerged in the capital during and daughter-in-law. Once again, Almodóvar drew Tennessee Williams plays in the mid-20th century. pears most often in Almodóvar’s films, because –at My life and my films are linked to Madrid like the the years of the transition to democracy. His first inspiration for this scene from real life: a birth took the end of the day– the thing we do the most is trav- two sides of a coin. feature-length film, Pepi, Luci, Bom, which he began HISTORIC AND PICTURE-POSTCARD place on a public bus in Madrid in 1963, with the 12. CINE DORÉ el... and die. The cemetery appears in Women on the Pedro Almodóvar to shoot in 1978, does a wonderful job capturing this mayor promising to provide a home and job for the Verge of a Nervous Breakdown, Kika, Live Flesh and fast-paced, experimental, fun and non-conformist MADRID baby once it was grown. The film begins in a rooming Santa Isabel, 3 High Heels. One of the oldest and largest in Western Pedro Almodóvar is, together with Luis Madrid. One of the hubs of the Movida movement house in Calle de la Bolsa. The two women stop a bus Europe, it’s the burial ground of figures as impor- which appears in the film was the flat where Cos- in Plaza de la Provincia and travel down Calle Alcalá Cine Doré appears in two of Pedro’s films: in Talk tant as Vicente Aleixandre, Pío Baroja, Benito Pérez Buñuel, the most international Spanish tus (the pseudonym of painters Enrique Naya and 05. PLAZA MAYOR before coming to a halt next to the Hall of Realms, to Her we see its façade, when Benigno goes Galdós, Lola Flores, Tierno Galván and Ramón y Cajal. filmmaker of all time. Born in Calzada de Juan José Carrero) lived at number 14, Calle de la where the baby is born. The bus starts to move again, there to watch the silent film The Shrinking Lov- Calatrava (Ciudad Real) in 1949, he moved Palma. Although the flat is now a communications Pedro Almodóvar steers clear of the sort of iconic and it’s then that Bardem addresses the newborn, er, and in Pain & Glory its beautiful modernist in- 17. ADOLFO SUÁREZ MADRID BARAJAS AIRPORT agency, it’s worth visiting the area, as several estab- Madrid sites commonly found on postcards, avoid- telling him: “Look Victor, Madrid!” Immediately after terior. Cine Doré screens films from the Filmoteca to Madrid in the late 1960s, determined lishments nearby provide a deeper understanding ing tourist hotspots like the Royal Palace and the this we see the magnificent Puerta de Alcalá, a gate Española, the Spanish film archive, and offers a to make movies. In 2018 he was made of the spirit of the era. At La Vía Láctea (no. 18, Calle Prado, Thyssen-Bornemisza and Reina Sofía mu- which has, in effect and as the song by Ana Belén special experience in danger of extinction: watch- When you arrive in or depart from the city, you’ll 21. TABERNA ALHAMBRA an honorary citizen, receiving the title of Velarde), you can see reproductions of paintings seums. These aren’t the places where Madrid’s and Víctor Manuel goes, stood unmoved “watch- ing classic films in their original languages, at likely do so at its airport, which appears in Laby created by Costus to decorate this legendary 1970s residents go about their daily lives, which is why ing time go by” for over two hundred years. It’s un- a knock-down price, in a cinema built in 1923. rinth of Passion, What Have I Done to Deserve Victoria, 9 “adoptive son of Madrid”. bar. At El Penta (no. 4, Calle de la Palma), a corner his characters don’t either. Pedro does, however, doubtedly one of the city’s most iconic landmarks. This?, Women on the Verge of a Nervous Break- Madrid has always provided Almodóvar bar where Alaska and Almodóvar met, the walls are occasionally devote some time to picture-postcard 13. TEATRO LARA down, High Heels, Talk to Her, Volver and I’m so In What Have I Done to Deserve This? Chus Lam- with “the perfect landscape and sassy covered in photos that pay tribute to Antonio Vega, Madrid, especially in his two most Madrid-centric Excited. If you have time before your flight, check preave’s character takes her grandchildren to this who immortalised the bar in his song La chica de films: The Flower of My Secret and Live Flesh. Plaza CULTURE, FILM AND THEATRE Corredera Baja de San Pablo, 15 out at the works of art found in the airport, such pub, opened in 1929, because in her hometown fauna” for his work. There are actresses, ayer. At the more recent bar-museum Madrid Me Mayor is the setting for one of the most romantic as the murals by Javier Calvo and Vaquero Tur- they say “if you haven’t seen Granada, you haven’t known as ‘chicas Almodóvar’, who have Mata (no. 31, Corredera Alta de San Pablo), there’s a scenes in all of Pedro’s films: Ángel’s confession of Theatre has always been a source of inspiration for cios on the check-in level of Terminal 2, and the seen anything”. She still hasn’t seen Granada, but wonderful 200 m2 exhibition featuring hundreds of love to Leo in The Flower of My Secret. Pedro shot it 10. CONDE DUQUE CULTURAL CENTRE Pedro, and several of the city’s theatres appear in bamboo roof of the international award-winning she settles for going to this old pub that recreates starred in a number of his films, but if items and mementos donated by key figures from in the 400-year-old square in the early hours of the his films: Teatro María Guerrero is where Becky del Terminal 4, which Raimunda cleaned in Volver. several of the Andalusian city’s typical motifs. there’s one muse that he’s always been the Movida. morning, to make it look like an enormous stage. One of Almodóvar’s most memorable scenes takes Páramo sings Piensa en mí in High Heels, and Pain loyal to, it’s Madrid. The city appears, to place at the entrance to Conde Duque: Carmen & Glory features Sala Mirador. Coincidentally, the 22. FARMACIA CARDONA 03. EL RASTRO FLEA MARKET AND LA BOBIA Maura, in Law of Desire, yelling “Water me!” while latter theatre is also where Penélope Cruz studied varying degrees in all his movies, from a street cleaner sprays her with a hose on a hot at Cristina Rota’s school. The theatre that appears Luna, 6 Pepi, Luci, Bom (1980) to Pain & Glory (2019). San Millán, 3 summer evening in Madrid. In the 19th century, the most in Pedro’s films is Teatro Lara: its curtain can We invite you to explore Madrid and Pedro same sorts of sprays had done little to stop a fire be seen at the end of All About My Mother and the This chemist’s, which opened in 1833, is one of the After a night of partying at El Penta, La Vía Láctea that devastated this former barrack, which was beginning of Talk to Her, and its stage and foyer oldest in the city. It’s here that Pepa buys the sleep- Almodóvar’s career by visiting some of the or Rockola, it was common to head to the Rastro abandoned for a century. Restored in the 1980s appear in Law of Desire. Its current programme re- ing pills she uses to cook up her lethal gazpacho main locations of his films. An utterly Alm- flea market to keep the fun going. Labyrinth of Pas- (in the film you can actually see the scaffolding sembles the one it offered when it was a reperto- in Women on the Verge of a Nervous Breakdown. odovarian route, in a city straight out of a sion shows us what the atmosphere was like in in front of the building), it’s now one of the city’s ry theatre: every week it hosts a large number of La Bobia, where the characters played by Imanol biggest cultural centres, featuring exhibitions, very diverse shows. It also offers a dramatised tour 23. ALMIRANTE STREET movie scene! Arias and Fabio McNamara meet. Pedro and Mc- museums, libraries and theatre performances. providing an overview of its 140 years of history. Namara also teamed up to form one of the Movi- At the entrance to Conde Duque, in Plaza de la In Law of Desire, Antonio Banderas’ character notic- da’s most iconic musical duos: Almodóvar & Mc- Guardia de Corps, a bust of Clara Campoamor es a flamboyant shirt in the shop window at number ALMODÓVAR’S EARLY DAYS IN Namara. The Rastro was also immortalised in Dark stands in memory of the women’s suffrage advocate IF YOU HAVE TIME 5, Calle del Almirante. In the 1980s it was a street Habits, as the place where the main charac­ters, a who achieved the vote for Spanish women for the for trendy clothing and avant-garde offerings, and MADRID group of nuns, sell food, the only thing you can no first time in elections held in 1933. In fact, the plac- even today, at number 10, you’ll find Berlín, which longer purchase in the city’s biggest street mar- es where Almodóvar’s characters live hold echoes of 14. THE CORRALA AT NO. 11 IN CALLE TENERIFE sells clothes by Roberto Torretta, and Ararat, which ket since a law enacted in 2000 prohibited its sale. the real-life women who fought for the independence AND THE PARK ON CALLE SAN RAIMUNDO provided much of the wardrobe for Pepi, Luci, Bom. 01. TELEFÓNICA BUILDING AND GRAN VÍA AVENUE 06. PUERTA DE MOROS AND THE BASILICA OF of the strong, free women so typical of Pedro’s films. SAN FRANCISCO EL GRANDE The corrala where Sole lives in Volver was built in 24. CASA DE DIEGO Pedro Almodóvar arrived in Madrid in the late 1921 thanks to Constructora Benéfica, a social 1960s, planning to enrol in the Official Film School. In The Flower of My Secret, Leo puts on a pair of project launched by Concepción Arenal that built TAPAS AND SHOPPING Puerta del Sol, 12 His dream was frustrated, however, when he found boots her husband gave her –the two are going homes for working families with donations from that it had been temporarily shut down by Franco. through a rough patch– just to remember him. Sud- women from the upper classes. Nearby on a corner The colourful umbrella that Manuela holds as After working a series of jobs, Pedro passed a pub- denly, they start feeling tight and she can’t get them on Calle San Raimundo, is the park where Raimunda 18. MUSEO CHICOTE she waits for her son in All About My Moth- lic examination that enabled him to join Compañía off. She lies down in the street, seeking help. It’s (naturally!) talks to and hugs her mother in Volver. er is from this manufacturer of umbrellas, Telefónica Nacional de España, the national tele- then that we see, in the background, the circular Gran Vía, 12 fans, walking sticks and shawls, which has phone company, in an administrative role in 1971. He dome of the Basilica of San Francisco el Grande. The been crafting top-quality products since 1823. worked in various offices, including the Telefónica dome is the one of the largest in all of Christendom, Founded in 1931, Museo Chicote was Spain’s first HQ on Gran Vía avenue. Construction on the sky- third to Saint Peter’s in the Vatican and the Panthe- cocktail bar. Ava Gardner, Frank Sinatra, Rita Hay- 25. OCHO Y MEDIO-LIBROS DE CINE scraper, one of the first to be built in Europe, began on in Rome. The basilica’s interior, which features worth, Cary Grant and Hemingway, among oth- in 1929. In its day, it took pride in being the tallest paintings by Zurbarán and Goya, is well worth a visit. er celebrities, couldn’t resist the artistry of Per- Martín de los Heros, 11 on the continent. Today it hosts various temporary Leo is ultimately aided by a junkie at the fountain in ico Chicote, the country’s most famous barman. exhibitions as well as a permanent exhibition on Plaza de Puerta de Moros, who takes off her boots It’s here where Blanca Portillo’s character makes This bookshop which specialises in film is a veritable the history of telecommunications. The Telefónica 04. PLAZA DE SANTA ANA in exchange for five thousand pesetas. Today a vis- an important confession in Broken Embraces. shrine to Pedro Almodóvar: within its walls you can Building features prominently in Almodóvar’s films. it to the Basilica of San Francisco el Grande won’t admire props from I’m so Excited, Vera’s mask and It’s seen in Pepa’s view from her rooftop in Women Plaza de Santa Ana was a favourite hang-out cost you nearly as much, and you’re sure to enjoy it. 19. VILLA ROSA the fabric sculptures from The Skin I Live In, a dress on the Verge of a Nervous Breakdown as well as from for the city’s hippies in the 1970s. Almodóvar worn by Carmen Maura’s character in Volver and El Palacio de la Prensa in The Flower of My Secret frequented the square and has a great af- 07. VIADUCTO DE SEGOVIA BRIDGE Plaza de Santa Ana, 5 posters from all of Pedro’s films, signed by him and and from Chicote in Broken Embraces. Curiously, fection for it, which is why it’s probably one his actors. In the shop you can also purchase books Gran Vía avenue -where it’s located- is only ever It’s on this bridge that Paz Vega’s character at- 11. CÍRCULO DE BELLAS ARTES One of Pedro Almodóvar’s favourite squares is home that study his films and even wines produced by Vi- seen through a window: specifically, through those tempts suicide in I’m so Excited. María Carde- to the city’s oldest flamenco tablao still in opera- nos Almodóvar, a winery launched by the filmmaker of the now defunct Manila café in Law of Desire. nal, a character obsessed with death in Mat- Alcalá, 32 tion. In High Heels Miguel Bosé sings Un año de and his brother. The bottles’ labels feature photos ador, often visits it, having witnessed a death amor on its stage. taken by the director himself. In front of the book- by suicide there soon after arriving in the city. If you’d like to enjoy the same view that Pepa had shop you’ll find Madrid’s Walk of Stars, a tribute to from her flat in Women on the Verge of a Nervous 20. TABERNA ÁNGEL SIERRA important figures from Spanish film that’s inspired 08. PLAZA DEL ALAMILLO Breakdown, just head to the rooftop of Círculo de by Hollywood’s Walk of Fame. The stars are in alpha- Bellas Artes. Although Pepa’s flat was at no. 7, Calle 15. BARRIO DE LA CONCEPCIÓN Gravina, 11 betical order, so the first one goes to Almodóvar. It This charming square is where the character Becky de Montalbán, the views are those of the Círculo. Pe- was created by the same designer who made the del Páramo buys a basement flat in High Heels, be- dro wanted to shoot the film there, but the building When Pedro commuted to his job at one of Telefóni- This hundred-year-old pub in Plaza de Chueca is poster for All About My Mother and the logo for the cause she wants to die in the bed where she was couldn’t support the weight of the film crew, so he ca’s offices in Fuencarral, he would see this neigh- where Leo and Betty arrange to meet in The Flower bookshop Ocho y Medio: Óscar Mariné. The same born. Almodóvar’s inspiration for the scene was had the skyline recreated in a studio. That isn’t the bourhood, commonly known as “the hives”, from the of My Secret. Famous for its vermouth, it’s no sur- street is also home to the Golem and Renoir cine- his own father, who travelled from Extremadura only time the Círculo has played a prominent role in M-30 motorway, and he’d wonder who lived there. prise that it’s here where Leo reveals that she finds mas, which screen art house films in their original to Castile-La Mancha when he was battling can- his films: its café, La Pecera, appears in Kika, and This was the starting point for What Have I Done everything hard, except drinking. Plaza de Chue- language. They are frequented by the main charac- cer in order to die in the bed where he was born. its traditional Carnival festival in The Skin I Live In. to Deserve This?, whose main characters live here. ca, the heart of Madrid’s gay neighbourhood, now ter in Julieta, as well as by Pedro Almodóvar himself. O

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r S D sio S Ruiz Jiménez ica ú E É C/ N o M LISTA U N O RQ C F C/ Don A Ramón d M / C/ e la Cruz D / C / E C AR / P RA C L C NZA C / R 07. Viaducto de Segovia bridge. Matador, I’m so I P á N I F l Gta. de

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C e c / M C a P / C a Plaza de E u e / / S o r I P C/ A D C / t C yala n J S n e C CASA COSTUS N e u / C PALACIO n e Alonso Martínez u a n r N l O B a o o r b s e T 10 Í a n C / M a d C C DE LIRIA / r u a G n R r d e C r l o t u 09. Puerta de Alcalá gate. Live Flesh. Á m O D P e i C / / v / l o e i Z n A / i D o n C v r C P u a / n C/ A s yal C a D t / R a or F g e c u /

r A M C U ca i G A da e o C e C. CULTURAL n R p t E / A j Plaza Sta. z C a a E N í / l a CONDE DUQUE S B C M Bárbara C LIBRERÍA OCHO Y e e A L d n N C R e / / Daoiz Plaza del 10. Conde Duque. Law of Desire. d q C A R u i / ó MEDIO,PASEO DE S A z Dos de Mayo e C C L r l a l / Vela i rde ó l b e / l n e c C u e a C C c a r / LAS ESTRELLASg Y e ó r l o t / a G i u m B a m É C/ s M de l N q i a Palma C/ i a O c a u A o V CINES RENOIRn L n o A o l C a M VENTURA D m e p C/ Her c C c mosilla 11. Círculo/Teatro Bellas Artes. All About My / Á S b s a de i m / la Pa f L i l a / A e a n ma c o C MUSEO e C M COLÓN C d C P n n t a RODRÍGEZ i L a s n e A d e B MUSEO DEL r i o DE HISTORIA / / l n Mother, The Skin I Live In, Kika, Women… F r n / C C a C C a a y v n DE MADRID ROMANTICISMO e S E r / C/ R San V s Plaza de i e C cente F / / errer o C F e a C ñ Colón d l a 2 a M TRIBUNAL C o s / t i a s Plaza de C C/ Espírit n s u / C/ Nov u Santo t F icia e e a 12. Cine Doré. Talk to Her, Pain & Glory. L S do l la Villa M GOYA a r g C MONUMENTO A C n A o n / z e r B a / e t A de París C/ G C e a n l CRISTÓBAL COLÓN OYA r a u M n d a L MUSEO a r g r n o / a d a a r i i e S C M SERRANO 3 n n a V e r o A d / I DE CERA R / Tesoro C z n C/ GOYA d C e CHUECA Y LA TABERNA o a e e s o t r l G M VELÁZQUEZ 13. Teatro Lara. Talk to Her, All About My Mother, R n a e r a a l l S o t l ÁNGEL SIERRA/ e a P e a C r d r M NOVICIADO C a d V o a u s l H o Law of Desire. e t s é e l 16 o n u d q / l e a n a C d r s a t id n e TEMPLO S g I. DE LAS z e V a ú r C/ a Brí é l Plaza de o a M s e e l 25 e e C/ B C TORRE DE d c R DE DEBOD / / J SALESAS REALES u a las Salesas s C q e C / M o y MADRID a C z BIBLIOTECA i TEATRO LARA g / á

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EL GRANDE e e to C/ CAIXAFORUM s S c A / c h lm o ú a adé C c i n a n RETIRO is lo s t ROSALEDA e l nc Jua n a ra C/ y l F s z C a I e an a o EL RASTRO M s úñ S / a N l d r a C n / a d b / á C l e d í rn e e i H l n a Fe e C l S

i l e n u o m C a u r o / n q u m T c / D e n I l L i E n e SAN FRANCISCO b / / L d d l C M e e o a C a l se T l e a f a EL GRANDE v o P C s l a C n a s / ó / o / d p A n C a Download the Essential Art Walk App and C e A i m MONUMENTO A / a r d m é d a o R o e p s t REAL 7 C A N O ELOY GONZALO a a i e / v N n C r r A P r CONSERVATORIO v discover the twenty-four masterpieces you

e u D / o a o Z e laudio Moyano O A a C C/ Download here all our guides to the city of Madrid. nt r r DE MÚSICA l M t Sa R Plaza de e / i D i a C / i IGLESIA DE d E C l C C v REAL r simply have to see in Madrid. e G b a Cascorro / s a R í S S e SAN CAYETANO r A a MONASTERIO E r E / l REAL N a LIBRERÍAS G C/ Calatrava t a m C a Al b t https://www.esmadrid.com/en/maps-and-essential- O STA. ISABEL www.esmadrid.com/en/essential-art-walk-app V o a i CUESTA MOYANO OBSERVATORIO V í d C M Í R j p /

I l e A e a a s A c DE MADRID C a d a s o ir v o n Villega n M C o Gta. a D a H Esteb d / r r / Poeta e guides C u C E a e C / d

r M ESTACIÓN DEL ARTE Emperador s / t C eY t C P S C e C A A i / u Carlos V a N Plaza de r S d D q ta E r r o g F . u O Lavapiés e r n R o C P a

e A i F / CM I Plaza de N s e g i t a M C e r r M LAVAPIÉS J P I la Corrala e D s r u E S C a b / l R C / d m C/ C O o o TEATRO Ar C i I S gu / R mo MUSEO MY s n A A / a C / L r C VALLE-INCLÁN C REINA SOFÍA G g e a a t a Plaza Mariano r e n l C y l u a z b / rí a de Cavia CY o i e u r er r s T r e V mb r / l a o e A C C S V. DE A l L a / MONUMENTO MED / C ITERR r e ÁNEO n t n e S c qu VÍCTIMAS 11-M CMY i l r g a o s u S e i o NA r c F n n TI l o a . IS e t h e Dr R i C b a e ra s C/ NA Gta. i i EI n M s M v t R PUERTA / o A e M C r L Puerta de e E t K a P D v EO u r o / S n C r PA G í Toledo DE TOLEDO i e s a a S C / l d de l C e / e C a

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d e D C M ATOCHA RENFE D J / C o J E e C / o B l A / s RAll images from Pedro Almodovar’s films are the a a s v

o M EMBAJADORES C C P EL a R é n s O C/ NA i i Mur l cia P A l b e O C a . s e l / M MENÉNDEZ s copyrighted property of EL DESEO D.A. S.L.U. Pho- r m C A e a F o / r o r s m C/ PELAYO a Vizcaya d G o

d e y n C Plaza de a / e a tograph on front cover by: Nico Bustos.

s G L r C Francisco ó o a l u n u n m a i a o c r l d Morano e E s a s t n t á i C i i u NES / r st d M O NT S d a g PO an o b e e S e O o e DE L I S l s / t O r PASE id C L a o z O r e e o o C i o C n / D s C ó Deli / a de cias á g c t E S / a n T e er e b c ó L v r e l il d r l A r e i l O l e a e H z a i T án R B C i /

c M st C/ Pedro O C / / a Unanú z e l o b I a e C S e e C s P r C / R h e t C a y í / C E c ñ f c / n AS n M I u a a á AC e E M O C d M R L S A l É C S e B N A a / L A / l D P E s E / C V C D C J a A s Z C O / a A e r S E AS n r D E P i e A L g O L t n O a a a R V u r s E e A

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