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> Techniques TURKEY TIPS: 2007 2006 2005 2004 2003 2002 2001 EMAIL | PRINT

Trends Turkey Tips 2008: Getting Tipsy Travel related links By JJ Proville, December 10, 2008 Pastry Turkey Tips 2007 Chef Ted Gray doesn’t think it’s a crime to serve the other, other white meat at your Thanks- Mixology giving table this year. I’m talking about Tofurkey. Gray was posed the challenge of creating a Thanksgiving 2001: The “Best of” Turkey Tips on Cookbooks vegetarian tasting menu for his restaurant Equinox by wife, co-owner, and 18-year vegetar- StarChefs ian Ellen Kassoff-Gray. She > Ask the Experts thought customers would like to learn Turkey Burgers With Roasted Peanut Slaw and how a restaurant chef approaches a Menus Chile Mayo On Poppy ... On the Pass meatless holiday meal using accessible alternatives, like Tofurkey. The result is Vegetarian Thanksgiving Tasting Menu Chef Ted Gray of Equinox - Washington, DC a five course meal of soup, pasta, salad, hotlinks main, and dessert that will be served the Traditional Thanksgiving Day Menu week of Thanksgiving. Equinox is Chef Suzanne Tract of Jar - Los Angeles, CA traditionally closed for the holiday asktheexperts Submit your culinary questions to the experts because Gray believes in a “big family Recipes night at home” and holds a staff party the night before. His advice to chefs Cider-brined “Tofurky” cooking Thanksgiving in their restaurant Brussels Sprouts Petals with Chablis- tools of the trade for the first time: “Don’t!” Poached Anjou Pears and Red Pearl Onions Tell us what you think about Champagne and win a Chef Ted Gray of Equinox - Washington, DC Magnum Champagne party for your restaurant. Chef Gray reveals his close-held recipe for Cider-brined “Tofurkey” to vegetarians Fall Apple Celery Salad and carnivores alike, suggesting Bread Oyster Stew events Pudding and Cranberry Jus as Join us October 28th at New York's Astor Center for our accompaniments. For a sophisticated Roasted Onions with Almond Pesto Career Series on Culinary Careers in Television & Radio vegetable dish to garner your holiday Chef Suzanne Tract of Jar - Los Angeles, CA table, try Chef Gray’s Brussels Sprout Petals recipe that is extremely easy to cookbooks Jacques Pepin's The Short-Cut Cook : Make Simple prepare and can be finished minutes before the feasting begins. Meals With Surprisingly Little Effort

Chef Suzanne Tract strongly believes in serving Thanksgiving dinner at her restaurant family-style and encourages her guests to help themselves to “seconds”, as you would at your own holiday table. As her menu reflects, she believes in a conventional dinner of rumbles&murmurs roasted turkey with cranberry relish, home-made turkey sausage stuffing, mashed potatoes, Culinary trailblazer Larry Forgione is hard at work and her prize braised Brussels sprouts among other things. Tracht stuffs her roasted turkey preparing for the opening of his new restaurant in the Wynn Resort and Casino... with homemade turkey sausage but considers purchasing a quality sausage from a high-end market or supplier suitable. Review her tips for restaurant success from the front to the back of the house.

Chef Tracht shares three savory recipes from Jar’s Thanksgiving menu—an autumnal salad with crunch, a quick to prepare oyster stew, and a side dish of roasted onions with an almond pesto that zings.

From a restaurant perspective, the day’s family dynamic calls for devoted attentiveness from restaurant staff. Be “on the mark” from every point, including the valet, hosts/esses, servers, and back of the house staff.

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Prune has one star – and that places rocks. This is where my money is: a review that says the restaurant is good enough, but not transcendent – a nice one-star. Some witty insights about the food, some finger wagging about the music being too loud, and a summation about how there are certain elements that prevent the restaurant from being great, but those imperfections are what make the place endearing..

chang at 10:44AM on 11/06/08

features index > Recipe Index

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On the Pass CULINARY TRENDS: 2007 2006 2005 EMAIL | PRINT

Culinary Trends 2008 related links By JJ Proville, December 10, 2008 Turkey Tips 2007 Over twenty cities, half dozen countries, hundreds of tastings, and quite literally nearly two thousand dishes, a dozen or so industry conferences, including our own International Chefs Thanksgiving 2001: The “Best of” Turkey Tips on Congress… Well, it goes without saying that we came away with a pretty solid sense of StarChefs what's going on in the industry, from trends to emerging philosophies. Turkey Burgers With Roasted Peanut Slaw and Following is a somewhat exhaustive list 2008 Trends Chile Mayo On Poppy ... of the major and minor trends we took note of in 2008. Sustainability Liquid Culture hotlinks Wine and Beer Mixology asktheexperts Submit your culinary questions to the experts Casual is Cool Communal Dining Restaurant Concepts tools of the trade Ethnic Goes Upscale Tell us what you think about Champagne and win a Magnum Champagne party for your restaurant. Restaurants Flying Under the Radar Presentation

Where Have All the Pastry Chefs Gone? events The Recession Effect Join us October 28th at New York's Astor Center for our Sustainability Career Series on Culinary Careers in Television & Radio Call it a national trend or call it a philosophical shift (we're going for the 2009 StarChefs.com Culinary cookbooks latter ourselves), we couldn’t leave out Trend Predictions Jacques Pepin's The Short-Cut Cook : Make Simple mention of the continued and growing 1. the beer sommelier Meals With Surprisingly Little Effort effort among chefs and restaurants to 2. upscale noodle bars expanding to the be more environmentally responsible. In mass market (like olive garden) our travels to cities all over the U.S., 3. upscale ethnic restaurants expanding by & what we noticed in 2008 was an fine dining chefs rumbles murmurs unprecedented level of awareness Culinary trailblazer Larry Forgione is hard at work 4. innovative service ware preparing for the opening of his new restaurant in the amongst chefs; rarely did we encounter 5. continued cocktail boom (despite the Wynn Resort and Casino... someone who didn't know what recession, but with lower price points) sustainability was or who didn't have 6. a backlash to pricey wines-by-the-glass ambitions to do more to have less of an 7. cost-effective prix fixe dinners (for under $40) impact on the environment.

The chef-farmer connection is growing stronger as well, with more and more chefs buying locally grown or made products, going to farmers markets, and developing customer growing partnerships with farmers. We were surprised to find that even chefs in the desert town of Las Vegas talk about trying to find and buy more local products, and striking up relationships with nearby growers, including the agriculture department at the University of Nevada.

In the national effort to be better stewards of the environment, bottled water companies have come under greater scrutiny for their indirect contribution to landfills and impact of water transportation. In response to the backlash, restaurants started ditching imported or transported bottled water, and installing tap water filtration systems, like Natura and Nordaq FRESH . Thomas Keller's French Laundry and Per Se are two top-tier restaurants to buck the bottled water; so did Suzanne Goin's Lucques in LA, Le Cirque in New York, and Graham Elliot in Chicago. But green technology like these filtration systems come at a price, so some restaurants are off-setting the expense by selling their filtered water successfully and with a profit, no less.

Other beverages are also getting some green attention these days with sommeliers and mixologists finding ways to be more environmentally keen. We've seen an increase in sustainable, organic, and/or biodynamic wines and wine menus, like at RM Seafood in Las Vegas and Tilth in Seattle. More mixologists are hip to using organic produce, juices, and spirits, as at Uncommon Ground in Chicago.

We've got a ways to go, certainly, but 2008 did show us that sustainability and eco-consciousness is on the rise. From recycling and composting to purchasing sustainable seafood, the word is out and we anticipate that chefs and the industry as a whole will develop a deeper understanding of how to be greener while also sustaining their profitability.

LiquidLiquid Culture Overall, Americans are increasingly clued-in on the topics of wine, beer, and spirits. In 2008, sommeliers, mixologists, and beverage directors kept their edge by seeking out more and more esoteric liquids from around the world—from high altitude brewed beers to obscure regional grape varietals to boutique spirits.

Wine and Beer In the world of wine, we’ve seen Greek and Eastern European wines appearing on a few wine menus, and several upscale casual and fine dining restaurants sommeliers crow about the micro-Champagne they found on a recent trip to France. In general, Champagne has been on the up and up for 2008—growers have even expanded their lots to grow more grapes—but the recession could bring a big slow down for ’09. Diners have already adjusted their wine budgets when at restaurants, so it seems inevitable that the sale of pricier wines, such as Champagne, will decrease—and value-oriented wine sales will go up.

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chang at 10:44AM on 11/06/08

features index > Recipe Index

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> Techniques

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Travel

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> Ask the Experts

On the Pass TRAVEL ARCHIVE EMAIL | PRINT Seattle Travel: What to Eat and Where to Stay related links

in the Emerald City Turkey Tips 2007 By JJ Proville, December 10, 2008 Thanksgiving 2001: The “Best of” Turkey Tips on Grunge may be dead, but green is thriving in Seattle. From the verdant farms of Eastern and StarChefs Western Washington to the rows of the city’s seven Farmers Market Alliance markets, excellent produce abounds, making for a food, wine, and cocktail culture that can’t help but Turkey Burgers With Roasted Peanut Slaw and focus on local. Chile Mayo On Poppy ... StarChefs Rising Star Maria Hines, whose restaurant Tilth is certified organic by Oregon Tilth, considers Seattle to be at the forefront of sustainability: “We have incredible access to farms right outside the city. We have a large number of farmers markets in a majority of the hotlinks neighborhoods, so it’s very accessible. It makes it easy.” asktheexperts It also raises the bar. When diners have access to high-quality produce in markets and Submit your culinary questions to the experts grocery stores, they expect only the best from their restaurants—at a fair price, too. Vuong Loc of Portage and Pig ’n Whistle has experience with both ends of the spectrum—high-end and casual bar—and says the ingredients need to be the same quality at both. “Even at the Fred Meyer [a superstore like Target], there's a huge organic and local selection. So you tools of the trade Tell us what you think about Champagne and win a have to really be on your game. It's extremely competitive.” Magnum Champagne party for your restaurant.

But Seattle’s green consciousness goes beyond Walla Walla onions, Beecher’s cheddar, and Nash’s beets. Using seasonal, local produce isn’t a point of pride, it’s a given. The next step for restaurants is composting, recycling, and in-house water filtration, which were events practiced by over three-quarters of the chefs we visited. Join us October 28th at New York's Astor Center for our Career Series on Culinary Careers in Television & Radio Yes, the eco-focus is a plus, but it takes more than great produce to keep a chef in a city—and those that are raised in Seattle seem to stay in Seattle. Every single one of the cookbooks nine 2003 Seattle Rising Stars are still working in Seattle, which is nearly unheard of in this Jacques Pepin's The Short-Cut Cook : Make Simple nomadic industry. They’ve branched out, too: Eric and Sophie Banh opened two Baguette Meals With Surprisingly Little Effort Box outposts in Freemont and Capitol Hill, and are opening a second Monsoon in Bellevue. Brian Scheehser left his post at The Hunt Club in the Sorrento hotel and opened Trellis, and Jonathan Sundstrom left Earth & Ocean in the W to open Lark and recently Licorous, next rumbles&murmurs door. Scott Staples opened Quinn’s, a gastropub on Capitol Hill, and William Belickis closed Culinary trailblazer Larry Forgione is hard at work Mistral, but has a new project in the works. preparing for the opening of his new restaurant in the Wynn Resort and Casino... In the five years since our last thorough scouting of the city, a new generation has had time to plant its seeds, often in unexpected places. Mark Fuller, who spent seven years in Tom Douglas’s restaurants, braved the wilds of West Seattle and opened Spring Hill, the area’s first upscale-casual, chef-driven restaurant. Spur Gastropub took over the Mistral space in Belltown and is serving innovative, clever food that lives up to its former tenant’s reputation. Tilth, Joule,and Sambar brought ambitious food and drink to Freemont and Wallingford, and Pig ‘n Whistle’s high-level bar food is on an eclectic commercial block in Greenwood.

The neighborhood restaurant is on the rise. Like Atlanta, LA, and even New York, Seattle is a city of neighborhoods, each an easy drive from downtown (the epicenter, if there was one), and each with its own character. The wide variety and spread of independent, chef-driven spots—even tucked into residential corners, like Volunteer Park Café—is one of the city’s charms, and a testament to the opportunity afforded by the city’s economics and diners.

That’s not to say that Seattle is a total culinary dreamland. A repeated gripe was about diners’ reluctance to embrace late dining (7pm remains the holy grail of restaurant reservation times). Holly Smith of Café Juanita calls the city a great place to cook, with a welcoming community and gorgeous produce, but: “Seattle is also the place where [diners will] call for the 7pm reservation, and when you say ‘6:45 or 7:15,’ sometimes they huff and hang up.”

Pastry Chef Dana Cree worked at one of the city’s only hyper-modern fine dining restaurants, Veil, until it closed this past fall. Today she’s toning down her desserts for a more laid-back crowd at Poppy; this means that her once de-constructed dishes are now re-constructed, with multiple elements cut out (“haikus of my old desserts,” she calls them). Cree says she’s still waiting for modern cuisine to become a trend in Seattle.

In the interim, the gold standard of well-executed cuisine, crafted from some of the country’s best local produce, will do.

Restaurants Hotels

Art Monsoon and Monsoon East Hotel 1000 Artemis Pig ‘n Whistle W Seattle Bon Vivant Poppy The Four Seasons Boat Street Café Portage Hotel Sorrento Boka Quinn’s Pub The Woodmark Boom Noodle The Rainier Club Branzino Restaurant Zoe Café Juanita Rover’s Campagne Sambar Canlis Sitka and Spruce Crush Skillet Street Food Earth & Ocean Spring Hill Espresso Vivace Spur How to Cook a Wolf Sutra The Hunt Club Taste Island Soul Tilth Joule Tini Bigs Lark Union Licorous Vessel Matt’s in the Market Volunteer Park Café

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chang at 10:44AM on 11/06/08

features index Seattle Travel: What to Eat and EMAIL | PRINT > Recipe Index Where to Stay in the Emerald City

> Letter from the Editor CONTINUED (PAGE 2 OF 5)

> Photo Galleries

> Wine, Spirits, and Beer TO EAT = Click for tasting photo gallery

> Techniques Trends Art The Four Seasons Travel 99 Union Street Seattle, WA 98101 Pastry (206) 749-7070 www.fourseasons.com Mixology Hours: Daily 6:30am-11am; 11am-2pm; 5pm-10pm Cookbooks Neighborhood: Pike Place Market/Art Museum/Downtown

> Ask the Experts Chef Kerry Sear closed Cascadia after nearly a decade and relocated to the brand-spankin’-new Four Seasons near Pike Place Market. The hotel is an airy space On the Pass speckled with impressive works of modern abstract art, to which the restaurant gives a nod with its playful selection of crudos accompanied by paintbrushes, with sauces to be applied according to the diner’s/artist’s wish. Definitely a fun snack for the bar; in the restaurant, a highlight was the inventive flavor combination of roasted beets, piquillo pepper, goat cheese, related links and grapefruit. Turkey Tips 2007

Recommended Dish: Thanksgiving 2001: The “Best of” Turkey Tips on - Branzino with Tomato-Basil Relish, Basil Oil, and Balsamic Syrup StarChefs - Burnt Pineapple Cream with Candied Red Thai Chilies and Cilantro Oil - Salt-Baked Beets, Pink Grapefruit, Piquillo Peppers, and Goat Cheese Cream Turkey Burgers With Roasted Peanut Slaw and Chile Mayo On Poppy ...

Artemis 757 Bellevue Avenue East Seattle, WA 98102 hotlinks (206) 860-2752 www.artemiscafe.net asktheexperts Hours: Tue-Wed 5pm-11pm; Thurs-Sat 5pm-2am; Sun 10am-2pm Submit your culinary questions to the experts Neighborhood: Capitol Hill

Perched on a hilly residential street in Northwest Capitol Hill, Artemis has the Space Needle tools of the trade perfectly framed in the window and a gas fireplace warming the wood-lined dining room, Tell us what you think about Champagne and win a making the café a charming spot to spend a low-key evening. The food is surprisingly Magnum Champagne party for your restaurant. ambitious for the setting – the young chef, Zach Millican, came from the kitchen of Bradley Ogden in Vegas and is anxious to bring all he learned into play; so carrot salad is tossed with argon oil and an olive crumble and chicken is cooked sous vide. The best dish of the events night, though, was a less fussy braised rabbit, crafted with an attention to detail that made it Join us October 28th at New York's Astor Center for our shine, and paired with a creative and deliciously toothsome buckwheat tagliatelle. Career Series on Culinary Careers in Television & Radio

Recommended Dish: cookbooks - Buckwheat Tagliatelle with Braised Rabbit, Herbs, Chanterelles, and Parmigiano Reggiano Jacques Pepin's The Short-Cut Cook : Make Simple Meals With Surprisingly Little Effort

Bin Vivant The Woodmark & 1200 Carillon Point rumbles murmurs Culinary trailblazer Larry Forgione is hard at work Kirkland, WA 98033 preparing for the opening of his new restaurant in the (425) 803-5595 Wynn Resort and Casino... www.woodmarkhotel.com Hours: Daily 11am-2pm; 5pm-10pm Neighborhood: Kirkland

Bin Vivant (in the lovely Woodmark Hotel on Lake Washington) is a restaurant built around wine—“vinocentric” is their word. The restaurant has over 80 wines by the glass, and the menu is built as few are: with wine as the starting point. Chef Lisa Nakamura is an alum of some impressive restaurants, including The French Laundry and Manresain California.

Recommended Dish: - Hawaiian Blue Prawns with Thai Red Curry Sauce, Sugar Snap Peas, and Coconut Rice Cakes

Boat Street Café 3131 Western Avenue #301 Seattle, WA 98121 (206) 632-4602 www.boatstreetcafe.com Hours: Sun-Mon 10:30am-2:30pm; Tue-Sat 10:30am-2:30pm; 5:30pm-10pm Neighborhood: University District

Simple food, done well—this isn’t Boat Street’s official motto, but it’s the one we’re giving them. We found ourselves in Renee Erickson’s garden-level dining room late Saturday night after seven straight days of tastings. Only delicious and carefully prepared food can be enjoyed by diners who are already full; so it’s worth noting that within five minutes of being served, the beef tartare and organic chicken liver pate with pickled prunes had disappeared from their plates. We were wowed by the understated, hearty flavors of Erickson’s cooking, and her appreciation for the craft of cuisine, as embodied by the flawless tartare, the excellent pate, and an out-of-this-world bread pudding (baked dry, and served swimming in rum buttercream). Her pickle plate is a tangy, multi-colored highlight, and some of its flavors are now available in West Coast grocery stores (in cute, small glass jars labeled “Boat Street Pickles” that she produces herself each morning). Also worth noting: Erickson bought the restaurant at age 25, with no kitchen experience, and has kept it going for nearly 10 years.

Recommended Dish: - Hand-Chopped Beef Tartare with Duck Fat-Fried Potatoes and a Farm Egg Yolk - Organic Chicken Liver Paté with House-Pickled Prunes - Pork Loin Rib Chop with Lacinato Kale Gratin, Roasted Potatoes, and House-Pickled Golden Raisins - Amaretto Bread Pudding with Rum Buttercream

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chang at 10:44AM on 11/06/08

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Trends Frozen Foam Technique Travel Pastry Chef Rick Billings of L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon – New York, NY related links

Pastry Turkey Tips 2007 Freezing foam sounds much more difficult than it actually Mixology is—but that’s not to say it’s not a textural feat. Pastry Chef Thanksgiving 2001: The “Best of” Turkey Tips on Rick Billings of L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon in New York StarChefs Cookbooks City first created the chilled froth while perfecting his balance of flavor and texture at Clio in Boston following in > Ask the Experts Turkey Burgers With Roasted Peanut Slaw and Alex Stupak’s ingenious footsteps. “With pastry, any Chile Mayo On Poppy ... On the Pass ingredient can take on countless forms; frozen, hot, liquid, powder, crunchy, soft,” says Billings.

At an ICC pastry workshop this year, Chef Billings hotlinks demonstrated his frozen foam technique to an engaged group of students and other chefs, like pastry colleague asktheexperts Johnny Iuzzini and experimental guru Wylie Dufresne. Submit your culinary questions to the experts The full dessert he created was called “Le Rocher” or The Rock (see recipe below). Billings says his approach to pastry is to take familiar flavors and present them to people in an unfamiliar way. tools of the trade Tell us what you think about Champagne and win a Magnum Champagne party for your restaurant. Pastry Chef Rick Billings The process starts off like a text book foam, but jumps off L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon the page once Billings shoots the frozen mixture from a Four Seasons Hotel siphon onto a shallow pan and freezes it in a blast chiller. 57 East 57th St. events New York, NY 10022 He shatters the frozen foam into abstract pieces for individual servings. The result is a rough-looking pumice Join us October 28th at New York's Astor Center for our (212) 350-6658 Career Series on Culinary Careers in Television & Radio stone that tastes like chewy chocolate ice cream. The first

+ click on images to enlarge version created at Clio used additives, but his technique evolved to use kuzu starch (or arrowroot powder). It’s cookbooks molecular innovation using au natural ingredients. Jacques Pepin's The Short-Cut Cook : Make Simple Meals With Surprisingly Little Effort

Step 1: Bring equal parts cream and water to a boil with kuzu starch, sugar, and dry flavoring ingredients. rumbles&murmurs Step 2: Pour heated cream mixture over chocolate in a Culinary trailblazer Larry Forgione is hard at work bowl and chill to 45°C/113°F. preparing for the opening of his new restaurant in the Step 3: Pour mixture into siphon charger and pump three Wynn Resort and Casino... times. Step 4: Dispense foam from siphon in an even layer on a plastic-lined pan. Step 5: Freeze for 8 hours in a blast chiller. Step 6: Break into pieces and store in freezer.

“Le Rocher” (The Rock) Pastry Chef Rick Billings of L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon – New York, NY Adapted by StarChefs.com January 2009 Yield: 1 Serving

INGREDIENTS “Le Rocher”: 40 grams sugar 40 grams cocoa 40 grams malted milk powder 3 grams salt 20 grams kuzu starch 400 grams cold cream 400 grams water 100 grams gianduja 200 grams milk chocolate

Streusel “Levain”: 250 grams all-purpose flour 250 grams sugar 250 grams butter 5 grams salt 187 grams almond flour 10 grams milk 40 grams fresh yeast

White Beer Sorbet: 200 grams water 100 grams sugar 70 grams atomized glucose 60 grams liquid glucose 450 grams Franziskaner beer Zest and juice of ½ lemon

Tangerine Sorbet: 260 grams water 280 grams sugar 100 grams atomized glucose 1 kilo tangerine juice

To Assemble and Serve: Freeze-dried apricots, ground into a fine powder Delicately flavored herbs, for garnish

METHOD For “Le Rocher”: Mix together sugar, cocoa, malt powder, salt, and kuzu. Put cream and water in a pot and mix in the dry ingredients; bring to a boil carefully while gently scraping bottom of the pot with a rubber spatula. Put gianduja and chocolate in a bowl and strain hot cream over top. Stir to emulsify and then cool to 45°C/113°F. Pour into a siphon and charge three times. Dispense in an even layer into a deep narrow loaf pan lined with plastic wrap. Freeze in a -40°C blast chiller for 8 hours.

Shatter into abstract pieces and store covered in the freezer.

For the Streusel “Levain”: Preheat one oven to 140°C/284°F, and another oven to 70°C/158°F. Mix flour, sugar, butter, salt, and almond flour until there are pea-sized clumps of butter. Combine milk and yeast until homogenous; then add to flour mixture blending until just incorporated. Spread out on a sheet pan and bake in the 140°C/284°F oven (vented) until dry and golden. Transfer to 70°/158°F oven; bake for 1 hour to finish drying. Process in a Thermomix* until smooth, then pour into a shallow pan to cool for about 8 hours.

Roll 6 gram pieces into “pebbles.” Set aside in refrigerator.

*Because of the butter, the mixture should liquefy while in the Thermomix.

For the White Beer Sorbet: Bring water, sugar, and both glucose to 85°C/185°F; then cool to 4°C/39°F. Gradually add the beer, zest, and juice and mix thoroughly. Portion into Pacojet beakers.

For the Tangerine Sorbet: Bring water, sugar, and glucose to 85°C/185°F; then cool to 4°C/39°F. Gradually add the juice and mix thoroughly. Portion into Pacojet beakers.

To Assemble and Serve: Place “le rocher” in the center of the plate. Arrange two pebbles of streusel around it, followed by one quenelle of each sorbet. Sprinkle a small amount of apricot powder on the tangerine sorbet, and finish the plate with a garnish of herbs and flowers.

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Prune has one star – and that places rocks. This is where my money is: a review that says the restaurant is good enough, but not transcendent – a nice one-star.

chang at 10:44AM on 11/06/08

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Trends Top 10 Winter Recipes Travel related links December 10, 2008 Pastry Turkey Tips 2007

Mixology 1. Nantucket Bay Scallops with Celery Root and Truffles Thanksgiving 2001: The “Best of” Turkey Tips on Chef Drew Belline of Floataway Café – Atlanta, GA Cookbooks StarChefs 2. Warm Radicchio Salad with Maine Shrimp and Hazelnut Dressing > Ask the Experts Chef Barton Seaver – Washington, DC Turkey Burgers With Roasted Peanut Slaw and On the Pass Chile Mayo On Poppy ... 3. Warm Vegetable Salad Chef Michael Anthony of Gramercy Tavern – New York, NY hotlinks 4. Kuri Squash Soup with Squash Dumplings and Sage Foam Chef Kevin Hickey of The Four Seasons – Chicago, IL asktheexperts Submit your culinary questions to the experts 5. Cervena Venison Couscous Waffle with Fresh Herbs and Mushrooms Chef Bart Vandaele of Belga Café – Washington, D.C.

6. Roasted Partridge with Huckleberry-Horseradish Compote tools of the trade Chef Jeffrey Buben of Vidalia and Bistro Bis – Washington, D.C. Tell us what you think about Champagne and win a Magnum Champagne party for your restaurant. 7. Roasted Black Bass, Cilantro Couscous, Eggplant, Tapenade of Beurre Blanc Chef Sven Mede of Nob Hill – Las Vegas, NV events 8. Toasted Gingerbread with Apples, Juniper, Sheep's Milk Yogurt and Cider Sorbet Join us October 28th at New York's Astor Center for our Pastry Chef Tim Dahl of Blackbird and Avec– Chicago, IL Career Series on Culinary Careers in Television & Radio

9. Champagne-Poached Pear Stuffed with Marinated Cranberries and Marzipan cookbooks Pastry Chef Pradeep Dharmawardane of Marcel's-Washington D.C. Jacques Pepin's The Short-Cut Cook : Make Simple Meals With Surprisingly Little Effort 10. Hot Toddies Mixologist Chris Raab of SB3 – New York, NY rumbles&murmurs Culinary trailblazer Larry Forgione is hard at work preparing for the opening of his new restaurant in the Wynn Resort and Casino... PRINT | EMAIL | FEED

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Prune has one star – and that places rocks. This is where my money is: a review that says the restaurant is good enough, but not transcendent – a nice one-star.

chang at 10:44AM on 11/06/08

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Trends Lyon, Madrid & Barcelona Travel related links February 2009 Pastry Turkey Tips 2007

Mixology January was a month of international Thanksgiving 2001: The “Best of” Turkey Tips on travel. Our team spent several days in StarChefs Cookbooks three European cities, Lyon, Madrid, and > Ask the Experts Barcelona—two cities hosted major Turkey Burgers With Roasted Peanut Slaw and international culinary events (Bocuse Chile Mayo On Poppy ... On the Pass d’Or and Madrid Fusion) and Barcelona…who can resist that culinary mecca? hotlinks Spain/Madrid Fusion The home of tapas, jamon, and olive oil asktheexperts Submit your culinary questions to the experts spheres was another destination. We attended Madrid Fusion, the four-day culinary symposium, now in its seventh year. We walked away with an ever- tools of the trade more profound understanding of the Tell us what you think about Champagne and win a impact of the global recession on Magnum Champagne party for your restaurant. restaurants and haute cuisine world- wide, but still found inspiration from the Features large contingent of Mexican chef- events presenters and from at least a dozen Seattle Rising Stars Bios, Interviews, and Recipes Join us October 28th at New York's Astor Center for our presentations. Take a look at our Career Series on Culinary Careers in Television & Radio Madrid Fusion event wrap-up and read Seattle Travel about the highlights of the event. Co-Chefs: Keeping the Culinary Romance cookbooks Alive Jacques Pepin's The Short-Cut Cook : Make Simple We went on several tastings in Madrid Meals With Surprisingly Little Effort and Barcelona, but a few stood out in Love Potions the bunch. Chef Ricardo Sans of Bordeaux Couples Kabuki in Madrid wowed us with his Cicchetti: The Preemptive Venetian classic Japanese cuisine technique and Appetizers, Ducca-Style rumbles&murmurs textural layering. He served us a black Culinary trailblazer Larry Forgione is hard at work sea bass “sushi” with a Canary Island Madrid Fusion 2009 Wrap-Up preparing for the opening of his new restaurant in the Wynn Resort and Casino... potato cube and drizzle of bass liver Bocuse d’Or 2009 Results sauce; to eat it, the diner wraps the piece of fish around the potato (a Photo Galleries substitute for the traditional sushi rice). The delight was not only in the clever NEW YORK twist on sushi, but the textural composi- Chef Harold Dieterle of Perilla tion, which combines silky strips of raw fish with soft potato and a pleasingly SPAIN unctuous sauce. Madrid Fusion 2009 - Madrid, Spain Subtle was the word of the day during Chef Ricardo Sanz of Kabuki - Madrid, our tasting at Paco Morales’ and Rut Spain Cotroneo’s Senzone. Morales’ skill with Chef Paco Morales of Senzone - Madrid, pairing and plating the most delicate Spain dish components kept us on the edge of our seats and continuously looking Chef Fernando Perez Arellano and Pastry forward to the next dish—and that’s Chef Ignacio N. Zea of Zaranda - Madrid, really saying something with a total of Spain 12 dishes served! His monkfish liver Chef Raphael Peña of Gresca - Barcelona, with cauliflower and fresh turnip water Spain is a prime example: the liver was soft Chef Jordi Artal of Cinc Sentits - Barcelona, and light as air, but still loaded with Spain flavor; thin slices of cauliflower floret gave the dish a delicate crunch, but it wasn’t quite raw or cooked; gentle bubbles in the turnip water appeared as carbonation, but dissipated on the tongue.

Zaranda, with chef Fernando Perez Arellano at the kitchen helm, impressed us with gorgeous presentation and solid French technique (not so commonly found in Spain). Arellano’s Mallard Duck Salad with Honey Endives, Sage Vinaigrette, and Sorrel Jus looked like a garden on the plate and packed a punch with its rich, gamey, and herbaceous flavors.

It’s almost expected now that Barcelona chefs will take us to new culinary heights. Chef Raphael Peña of Gresca did not disappoint with his Egg Souffle with Vegetables, Cream, and Ham. What’s so innovative about soufflé? Peña turns the egg whites into a meringue “shell” that encases a runny yolk; when the soufflé is broken into, the yolk spills onto the plate and integrates with the creamy vegetables and Iberico ham underneath. Spain’s national meat, pork, does well in the deft hands of chef Jordi Artal of Cinc Sentits. This chef’s sous vide suckling pigs takes no less than three days to prepare and the perfectly shaped cube you get on the plate is as tender, juicy, and flavorful as it should be with the added bonus of a crackling crisp skin and tender apple.

Lyon/Bocuse d’Or The Bocuse d’Or World Cuisine Contest was as fierce and exciting as ever, especially for the American team lead by The French Laundry’s sous chef Timothy Hollingsworth with commis Adina Guest. The dynamic U.S. duo performed at peak level, placing sixth in what amounts to the world’s most rigorous culinary competition. Find out what platters team USA presented and who placed where in the Olympian chef battle in our Bocuse wrap-up.

Although we always aim for (and want) gold, Hollingsworth’s effort and final top third place- ment is worthy of golden praise and recognition. After all, only one other U.S. team in the history of the competition has placed as high. What’s more, this year seemed to mark a turning point for the backing of a U.S. Bocuse efforts: Hollingsworth and Guest received an unprecedented level of support from an invigorated Bocuse d’Or USA organization (including passionate backing from Daniel Boulud and Thomas Keller)—not to mention a level of national media coverage never before seen, with mainstream coverage including Time Magazine and the New York Times.

Stay tuned in the coming week for a complete Bocuse d’Or wrap-up with fantastic photogra- phy from e-Gullet veteran and blogger John Sconzo.

Back states-side, we’ve got a slew of Valentine’s Day-centered features to check out, including our cocktail-driven Love Potions, Co-Chefs: Keeping the Culinary Romance Alive, and our wine feature Bordeaux Couples. And read all about our Seattle Rising Stars—bios, interviews, and their wining dish recipes are waiting for you. Seattle Travel: What to Eat and Where to Stay will keep you on top of the Emerald’s city dining scene; check out chef Rich- ard Corbo’s Cicchetti (that’s chi-ket-ti); and browse through our recent photo galleries from our international expeditions.

A final word for late New York restaurateur Steven Scher. The generous entrepreneur and industry leader passed away unexpectedly late last year and was always a great friend to StarChefs and the industry at large. The Steven Scher Memorial Scholarship for Aspiring Restaurateurs is set up in his honor, and a benefit to the scholarship and the James Beard Foundation will be held in Miami at Scott Conant’s Scarpetta on February 21st (click here for details).

Cheers! Antoinette Bruno Editor-in-Chief

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Prune has one star – and that places rocks. This is where my money is: a review that says the restaurant is good enough, but not transcendent – a nice one-star.

chang at 10:44AM on 11/06/08

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Trends StarChefs.com Career Series at the Astor Center – Travel related links Session Two: The Path of the Sommelier Pastry Turkey Tips 2007 November 2009 Mixology Thanksgiving 2001: The “Best of” Turkey Tips on StarChefs Cookbooks The second installment of our career series focuses on four very talented Watch other panels from the > Ask the Experts sommeliers and beverage directors, each StarChefs.com Career Series: Turkey Burgers With Roasted Peanut Slaw and of whose path to success took surpris- Chile Mayo On Poppy ... On the Pass Mixologists: Beyond the Bar with Allen ingly different twists and turns. All advo- Katz, Junior Merino, and Yvan Lemoine cate getting hands-on restaurant experience either through an internship, hotlinks apprenticeship, stage, or job to see Chefs’ Personal Assistants: Rachael Carron whether you really want to be part of the (Wylie Dufresne), Beth Aretsky (Anthony asktheexperts restaurant environment, or if you’re more Bourdain), Kristen Gegnas (Charlie Palmer), Submit your culinary questions to the experts excited by being a brand ambassador or and Christa Weaving (David Burke) wine educator. Astor Center David Lombardo (Wine and Beverage 399 Lafayette St tools of the trade Director for Anvil Restaurant Group), New York, NY 10003 Tell us what you think about Champagne and win a Thomas Combescot-Lepere (Wine (212) 674-7501 Magnum Champagne party for your restaurant. Director at St. Regis Hotel New York and www.astorcenternyc.com Adour Alain Ducasse), Belinda Chang (Wine Director at The Modern), and Chris events Goodhart (Wine Director at McNally Restaurants) share the daily ins-and-outs of their jobs Join us October 28th at New York's Astor Center for our and give advice on how you too can take the path of the sommelier. Career Series on Culinary Careers in Television & Radio

Tune in to learn the difference between a wine director and a sommelier, what it’s like to cookbooks attend a formal restaurant school in France, the merits of on-the-job training, and how to Jacques Pepin's The Short-Cut Cook : Make Simple jump-start your own independent tasting and travel wine education. Meals With Surprisingly Little Effort

StarChefs.com Career Series at the Astor Center – Session Two rumbles&murmurs Culinary trailblazer Larry Forgione is hard at work preparing for the opening of his new restaurant in the Wynn Resort and Casino...

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Prune has one star – and that places rocks. This is where my money is: a review that says the restaurant is good enough, but not transcendent – a nice one-star.

chang at 10:44AM on 11/06/08

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