Food & drink In association with East of England Co-op at the heart of country Mark Dorber is passionate about good food, good and - above all else – good beer. Claire Holmes visited his newest project, The Swan at Stratford St Mary, to find out more

atching food with has an appetite for excellence and beer isn’t exactly loves being able to showcase the something new, but very best of what the world has to beer – and the way it offer in relation to food and drink. can elevate the taste His two businesses embody this of different dishes – passion in a very real way – and you Mhas certainly started to grip the only have to look behind the or nation in recent years. at the menu to see this. Whether it’s because the drink To those who are interested in food itself has improved, because there’s and drink, Mark’s name may ring a a record number of breweries bell – and so it should. He is well opening or simply because we as a known as the man who helped nation have become more open to transform one of the UK’s best the idea of drinking beer, it into a haven for diverse, interesting definitely seems to be the thing of and excellent food and drink. the moment. Indeed, during the 25 or so years And, it’s something that Mark that Mark was involved in The I The team at the Swan in Stratford St Mary - Ed Razzall, Jane and Mark Photos: SU ANDERSON Dorber has been extolling the White Horse at Parsons Green - Dorber and Steven Miles. virtues of for years. affectionately known as the Sloaney The beer , who owns Pony - he helped bring it world-fame The pair took over the 16th “When this came on the market it both The Anchor at Walberswick through paying close attention to Academy - an independent century pub in March 2012, seemed like a very good project,” he and The Swan at Stratford St Mary, what it kept in the cellar and behind educational trust which is aligned spending nearly 10 months enthused. “The White Horse was the bar. to the Institute of and renovating and refurbishing the challenge number one, The Anchor Under Mark’s direction, the Distilling and designed to help building and its grounds before was challenge number two and this business built up a strong people understand beer. opening it to the public. It’s now run is challenge number three.” reputation for its portfolio of The appeal of Suffolk – combined by Mark’s sister Jane and assistant On the day I visited, the sun was cask and bottle from with a need to be closer to his wife’s manager Ed Razzall, although Mark shining and the village was bathed across the world and won a family –brought Mark and his other and Sophie are very much involved. in glorious light – showcasing the long list of accolades, half Sophie to The Anchor in Mark’s desire to run a pub in this area’s quaint beauty perfectly. including the sought-after Walberswick in 2004 and they part of the country dates back to the The timber-framed Swan sits on a title of Britain’s best pub. eventually left the London business years that he was commuting from large plot of land, just literally Mark is also one of the in 2007. The Swan at Stratford is The Anchor in Walbserswick to The across the road from the founders of the Beer their latest venture. White Horse in London and used to picturesque River Stour. pass this area with longing. He’s A lot of work has gone into pleased to have finally made the detangling the mass of brambles dream a reality. which used to sit behind the pub, Eating and drinking at The Swan Inn

Mark picks five dishes from the Swan’s menu Dish: and suggests what to drink alongside them Dish: Pig’s head croquette with parsley, Dish: caper and raisin salad Bitter chocolate and salted caramel tart with Marybelle Marinated herring with roast and Matched beer: Schneider Weisse crème fraiche pickled beetroot, horseradish cream Original, Kelheim, Germany Mark says: This is the ‘Rolls-Royce’ of Beer matched: and chive oil German wheat beers. Aromas of Rochefort 10, Rochefort, bananas and cloves and fabulous Belgium Matched beer: Früh Kölsch, effervescence make this the ultimate Mark says: This is a Cologne, Germany picnic beer as well as a good choice strong, dark, profound Mark says: This is the definitive with pig’s head. Schneider is a dark Trappist beer in the old Kolsch – a subtle hybrid of ale amber (Dunkel) wheat beer and has ale style with aromas of fruitiness and round clean lager the body to match the pork, the clove vanilla and dark chocolate sophistication. Pale gold in colour spiciness to match the capers and a and rich, lingering with a good lasting head and touch of banana sweetness to chocolate malt flavours. persistent effervescence, the complement the raisins in the salad. The dual yeast strain and hoppy, dry finish is intensely Three atmospheres of carbonation give long bottle ageing confer appetising with a touch of mineral persistent spritz and a refreshing finish. a very complex set of and noble hop aromas. If you prefer wine: go for a glass of flavours and an ultra The lovely clean mineral Trimbach Gewurztraminer subtle carbonation that backbone is a perfect foil for the Mark says: Trimbach gently removes the powerful herring flavours without Gewurztraminer (Gewurz, of course chocolate from the taste drawing out any of the metallic means spicy in German) is spicy, rich buds finishing clean, long flavours in this dish. and full-bodied and enjoys working and well balanced. Or for something different against the well developed flavour of try: a glass of Aalborg Akvavit the pork, teasing out the fruit flavours in this dish.

24 ealife Saturday, March 15, 2014