THE STUPAS AT • Mandalay • Amarapura AHNEINT, MYANMAR "Village of the Rhino"

NOEL F. SINGER

Photographs by the author

Location map by the author (not to scale)

OVER T HE centuries, vandalism, decay countless archaeological artefacts have been swam). • and seismic activity has meant that out of lost. The word Kan eint (the original name the thousands of shrines at extensive reli­ It would seem that the main aim of trust­ for the vi llage, now shortened to Ahneint) gious sites such as Bagan, Sagaing and Sri ees, in many religious institutions the world translates as "a low bank", as it is almost on K shetra, only a few have survived in their over, is to attract pilgrims to their shri ne the same level as the river. Its sister village, original form. At least 90 per cent of the in the belief that they wi ll boost their cof­ four miles to the north, is called Ahmyint older structures have been regularly re­ fers. I n Myanmar, generating huge drawing or "high bank". This region, which is in paired by local builders, many of whom arc power, is the large number of Sutaung jryai the dry zone, is liable to annual inundation devoid of any sense of conservation as phayar (wish-fulfilling Buddha images) which from the Chindwin River, during which practised abroad. Unhampered by restrain­ have suddenly materialised. This is a recent many of the stupas become islands in a sea ing laws or planning regulations, a pious phenomenon and almost every shrine now of muddy water. T he area abounds in arte­ donor, or energetic monk, can hire anyone boasts of one. But one should bear in mind facts from the later Stone Age, indicating of dubious training to renovate a stupa of that, assuming a wish is to be granted, one early settlements. H ere, isolated amongst his choice. Despite the superlatives of tour­ has first to give liberally. thorny scrub jungle, ancient trees and toddy ist propaganda, a discerning eye can often The national trend of renovation is espe­ palms, there are pagodas and temples of a pi ck out the resulting shoddy craftsmanship cially noticeable at Bagan where after the unique design. H uge bricks from various at many a restored shrine. disastrous earthquake of 1975, the Archae­ ,ruins li tter the ground, an indication of its To the Myanmar, new is beautiful, and ological D epartment, and some private in­ once affluent past. A few inscriptions from an ancient pagoda can be stripped of its dividuals, have "improved" the shape of the the Bagan period (I 000- 1300 AD) and surviving exquisite stucco embellishments, shikhara (the superstructure of a temple said later, can be seen half buried in the sesame and transformed .into a mirror image of the to symbolise the sacred Mount K a ilasa of (Sesamum indicum) fiel ds. Shwc Dagon (fo rmerly Kyaik Lagun, the Hindu mythology) and increased its height. Local tradition has it that at its inception, great Mon shrine and premier pagoda) at This has occurred at several of the larger in the m isty past, Ahneint comprised nine Yangon; examples of this type of transfor­ temples spanning the years I 000 to 1300. It villages, nine cetiyas (large solid pagodas), mation abound. Although in its present is possible that this was done with a view to nine gu (cave temples; structures with cham­ form this stupa only elates from the 18th impress; comparisons with pre-1975 photo­ bers fo r images and worship), nine monas­ century, nevertheless, it is held to be the ul­ graphs will confirm this statement. teries and nine lakes; of the last two, few tim ate in pagoda design. This relentless Fortunately, in the little backwater called now remain. The figure nine is considered need to beautify has also meant that antique Ahncint, or the Village of the Rhino near particularly potent in the East a nd was es­ images are frequently regildcd, or early N!onywa, a large cluster of shrines from pecially favoured by kings and courtiers. bronzes polished. the 17th and 18th centuries have rema ined A region celebrated for its religious and At the Ahshay and Ahnauk Shwenatha relatively unscathed. They have also mirac­ secular amenities in such magical numbers temples at Bago, p riceless pre-1 000 AD ulously escaped earthquake damage. Al­ meant that it was an auspicious si te and it stone carvings of Buddhas have recently though the superb stucco decorations at thrived, until the fall of the Bagan dynasty been smothered in crude mosaic, the fea­ Bagan have been well documented, at Ah­ in about 1300. Archaeological evidence tures and clothing " modernised" so that neint, no survey has been undertaken. Un­ suggests that it became· a flou rish ing river­ they are now garishly new. It may come as a happily, time is not on the side of these ine town sometime during the 12th century, shock that the culprits of such vandalism buildings, as the inclement weather and ne­ when Narapatisithu (reigned 1173- 121 0) arc usuall y the elderly trustees and monks glect will continue relentlessly to hasten built the Thon Lu Ah Ba Phayar Hla pa­ of the "old school", to whom conservation their destruction. goda, now known as the Thon Ban Hla. is a totally alien and foreign concept. At this Arcadian site, a charming legend Ahneint, providentially, has still not been Another insurmountable barrier is the has it that a rhino (allegedly Gautama Bud­ included in the tours for foreign tourists, centuries-old notion that any damaged dha in one of his numerous incarnations) heading for the extraordinary rock-cut caves or discoloured object from an earlier age was swept down the Chindwin River and o f Phowintaung, on the west bank of Mon­ is klzite te (had become contaminated and managed to scramble up the bank. To this ywa. Neither is it listed among the places therefore attracts misfortune). The Myan­ day, two pagodas of an uncertain date and of pilgrimage for the Myanmar. If this situ­ mar have two alternatives for such a situ­ named after the event, can still be seen. The ation continues, many of the pagodas will ation, embellishment or destruction; unfor­ pair are known as Kyant Tet (where the escape unsupervised and disastrous reno­ tuna tely, the latter course has often been rhino climbed ashore) and the Kyant Sin vations by the pious. T his in itself is a bless­ taken in the belief that it would nullify the (where the rhino returned to the river). It is ing in disguise, as such "benefactors" tend bad luck. Predictably, over the millennium, a lso called Kyant Ku (where the rh ino to smother the delicately carved stucco or-

January-February 2005 103 which faces the auspicious east, lies smoth­ ered in dense vegetation. It is the only shrine which has at the entrance to the en­ closure wall, a pair of stone guardian deuas in anjali mudra (gesture of greeting; inte nded to welcome the pilgrims). Both are now headless, while at the time of my visit, there were several decapitated Buddha images strewn around the overgro;vn courtyard, evidence that vandals had recently been in the area. This, despite its reputation as the haunt of snakes. T he single doorway, with its fi nely worked pediments and door ja mb, is ornamcntcd with sein j;an (diamond-shaped decorations). A terse inscription in the vestibule states that the murals with.i n were completed in I 707. Sadly, huge sections have become stained, or have Aaked off due to damp caused by the rain seeping in. R emarkably, the little temple is not sq uare but built in the kho nan cho style; this is a local trend which is apparent in almost all the religious structures of the period. Beginning at the base of the temple a re a series of clw (literally "to bend" into irregu­ lar corners, pleats and fo lds of identical measurements). As these progress vertically in to terraces, the multi-angles arc retained in ever decreasing d imensions. The gradu­ a ting levels so fo rmed would have once culminated in a pinnacle with a gilded ftti (customaril y a cone-shaped umbrell a of lac­ quered metal). T he terraces arc decked out with pointed masonry ornaments called sein laung (dia­ mond mountain), now unadorned, as the The Pyatthat Phayar wi th its unusual sein lctttng (diamond mountain) roof decorations stucco has peeled away. Fortunately, a few remain to confirm that the missing motifs were of the 9ay klzway (curling ornaments) variety. In shape, each projection resembles namentation with thick lzlone (whitewash), ta in some of their fi ne stucco work a nd old the pronged embellishment to be fo und thereby ruining them fo rever. wall paintings. H owever, for our present on the head of a uajra (thunderbolt of Indra) Shrines in M yanmar consist of two purpose, onl y two of the more outstanding a nd it is these pieces which produce the dis­ types, the cetiya (solid stupa), and the tem­ buildings will be described in detail. tinctive, K hmcr-likc appearance of this edi­ ple, known as either gu or kala 9 aung (liter­ For those with an interest in pagoda fi ce. Observing it at twilight, it could almost ally "Ind ian monastery", an indication that structural design, the site of the Tan Daing pass for one of the temples a t Banteay Srei architcctura lly, the design was introduced Shay monastery, a huge compound of about in Cambodia. from India). The temple usually consists of 15 acres will be relevant. T he complex was R egarding the klzo nan cho design, there a sq uarc base with porches, passages and commissioned by a wea lthy man named arc several fancifu l traditions, one being cha mbers, but with a roof terminating in a Nga Phyu Thin, a nd the extant dedicatory that it was based on the palace of Buddha, stupa. Al though the majority a re built with inscription is da ted 1333. Although the when he was the ki ng of doves during one four entrances; each generally facing the wooden co nstructions have long since van­ of his incarnations; hence the klzo nan (pal­ cardina l points, some with single doorways ished, within the grounds a re the Pyaung ace of the dove). arc also known. Pyar Gyi and the Lay M yet H nar p agodas. A more satisfactory expla nation is that Among the structural embellish- There is also the Sutaungpyi (wish-ful fi lling) the archi tectural concept was borrowed ments, unlike the usual varieties to be seen pagoda of an unknown elate, in the centre from the Mon (a distinct ethnic group from throughout the country, those at Ahneint of the vill age. [t contains murals, several the M yanmar, whose civilisation Aour is hed are distinctive. While a few of the more fin ely carved stone umbrellas of the 17th in the southern half of the country; a t Bago, massive pagodas were built during the century, and inscriptions. their former capital, the roofs of the audi­ Bagan peri od, j udging by the architecture In design, one of the most remarkable ence halls of Kambaszathadi, the recently and da ted murals, the heyday of erecting temples is the Pyatthat Phayar, which is sit­ constructed palace, conforms to this pat­ the small er shrines occurred sometime dur­ ua ted north of the village in an isolated tern it was based on artefacts and surviv­ ing the I 7th and the 18th centuries. Pre­ spot. But as a dedicatory inscription has so ing a rchitectural styles of the period). sumably this was a period wh en, for a time, far not been discovered, it is unclear if this Existing masonry examples, and accounts the region enjoyed renewed prosperity, and is its original titl e. In all probability it be­ in poems and chronicles, suggest that the predictably, a ffiu cnt Buddhists converted came known locall y by th is name as it re­ klw nan cho feature was fashionable during their su rplus wealth in to constructing pago­ se mbles a fJYaUhat (!nasada; a structure with the 16th to the 18th centuries. At the Pyat­ das in the time-honoured way. numerous recedi ng roofs, seen on religious that P hayar, not only does the architectural Al though there arc numerous religious and palace buildings a li ke). design make it one of the outstanding struc­ structures at Ahncint, barely fifteen still re- The temple, with its solitary doorway tures in the region, as far as [ am aware; it

104 Arts of Asia has not been met with elsewhere in this form. The second building of in terest is to be fou nd at the Zaydeedaw Taik, an unusual complex of nine pagodas and tem­ ples with impressive stucco decorations and wall paintings. Sadly, seve ral have been dis­ figured with gaping holes left by treasure hunters. The huge paved compound, and shrines wi th innovative archi tectural de­ signs, are particula rl y striking. While some of the temples contain mura ls from the 17th century, commiss ioned at the time of co n­ str uction, another, with examples presum­ ably painted over the originals, is elated 1839; this form of artistic vandalism was often perpetrated by a well-meaning donor. The base and two to p terraces of the principal structure arc octagonal, but ra­ diating like a star with a small cetiya at each point. Along the encircling lintels are sculpted interl ocking motifs kn own as naga lein (intertwi ned dragons). T he building as­ cends in a series of diminishing ba nds, each ornamentcd with repeating ci rcul ar Aoral arrangements known as hmaw la.n; these are clearly mould produced. In the bell section, i11Lerlocking heart-shaped tendrils enclose bhodi (Banyan: Ficus indica) le aves, with the tips either pointing up or down. Above these, the conical spire rises in a series of jJ!wung y it (bands), rema rkably like the ringed pinnacles of Thailand. At ground level, lions guard all the corners of the str ucture. What little remains of their deco­ ration is impressive. The four entrances to the chamber within a re notable for their kinnara (a creature A temple in the Zaydeedaw Tai k complex half-human and half-bird) pediments, which are Oankcd by horn-like saing baung (a vari­ ant of the Thai hang bong) projections. Be­ tween the horns arc four curling ornaments tating acts perpetrated by "compassionate" hundred Indians, together with fi ve hun­ associated with doorways and the backs of M yanmar Buddhists in their unrelenti ng dred caule. The fortunate "recipient" was thrones. Each access ornament is distinct, search for kulho (merit; in our politicall y the Dammayazika pagoda. Obviously, this with the area of the tympanum, below the correct world, with its human rights and was an extravagant royal donation and pediment, displaying e ither karavika (crane) anti-discriminatory laws, such actions would must have had an effect on the Treasury. birds or naga (dragons). The stucco embel­ appear to be at the expense and misery of Conveniently, T han Tun provides us lishments suggests th at th ere were several others). with the value of the silver tica.l used at the craftsmen working on the nine pagodas of Once registered as pagoda slaves, not time. According to him, a slave could be the Zaydecdaw Taik complex, as th e q uality only the entire fam ily, but their descend­ procured for thirty ticals of silver, or twenty of many of the motifs varies in excell ence . ants, for all time, became social outcasts; bushels of paddy. A good horse was worth As fo r the craftsmen, such as architects, th is meant that they could only ma rry forty slaves, while the p l-ice of an elephant workers in stucco, artists, carpenters and among their own "caste". The psychologi­ was fifty slaves. Land, on the other hand, woodcarvers who created these religious cal trauma must have been immense . was cheap, 1.5 7 acres could be acquired for structures, the maj ority travelled around Beginning from the Bagan period, con­ one tical. the kingdom, finding work along the way. temporary inscriptions trumpeted the abil­ Understandably, the farsighted donors of Among those employed at Court, many were ity of donors to dedicate large numbers religious buildings made sure that among a.h si ah set na.ndaw ahloke Lhamar (hereditary of slaves. Bizarrely, in I 179, in a n exces­ the slaves were craftsmen, such as the vitally workers of the palace). T hey lived at the sive display of piety, Abinandathu, a high­ important masons, brickworkers and car­ capital in their own oh su (groups), in quar­ ranking official at the Court of Bagan, penters. They a nd their progeny were sworn ters named after their profession. There dedicated not only hi mself, but also his wi fe to maintain the edifice they were dedicated were also sma ll communities of artisans and two sons, together with slaves, to the to until the coming of Maitreya (Arimittiya, in the larger towns, who enj oyed a steady Tainggyut temple. Than Tun also men­ the futu re Buddha) at some unimaginable stream of commiss ions. For th e craftsmen at tioned a king consigning some of his chil­ time in the future. And to make sure th at Court, private work was permiuccl wi th the dren to this appalling fate, but he failed to these slaves did not desert their posts, their consent of their departmental head. identify the ruler, nor did he provide a elate. names were deli bera tely inscribed on th e Disturbingly, being an a rtisan, especiall y An inscripti on of I 198 claimed that Nar­ dedi catory inscriptions for all to see. Al­ those connected wi th the building trade, apatisithu, the king who built the massive though Than Tun claimed that the majority had its drawback as they were liable to be pagoda at 1\hneint, all egedly dedicatcd one were contented with their lot, and pre­ dedicated as jJ/wyar kyun (pagoda slaves). thousand slaves (of various professions), fi ve sented convi ncing evidence to support it, his T his was one of the most call ous and devas- hundred of whom were Niyanmar and five statement is difficul t to accept.

January-February 2005 105 ' Elaborate embellishments on one of the Stucco decorations on li nte ls and pi lasters Zaydeedaw Taik pagodas

Is it little wonder that when opportunity l'ing Muslim persecutions between I 000 and ported communities of workers in the pro­ presented itself, either during civil distur­ 1206. Visual evidence in murals and other duction of paper and palm leaf. Depending bances, or when the ruling family no longer works of art, confirm that Indian influence, on the subject and type of document, the held absolute power, these artisans, seeth­ particularl y in costume, was overwhelming services of other artisans, such as scribes, ing with resentment, either defaced or de­ at Court and a mong the people. It is under­ a rtists, lacquerers, silver and gold leaf stroyed the damning parts of the inscrip­ stood that over the centuries, information workers, were sought. A finished volume tions. They were then able to melt away and in these foreign instruction manuals were also relied on carvers in wood or ivory, to assume a new life. added to or amended to suit local require­ produce the protecting kyan (boards), and U ntil well into the 1970s, the thousands ments. weavers to create the sar pu lway (wrappers of smaller ruins at Bagan, many mere rub­ In 1846, after a huge fire destroyed part with reinforced strips of bamboo) and elab­ ble, stood as testimony to this deli berate of Amarapura, the then Myanmar capital, orate sar si kyo (binding ribbons) with devo­ abandonment and desertion. And who can it was discovered that a mong the losses were tional messages. blame the pagoda slaves? Had they been a large number or irreplaceable treatises In old Myanmar, there was no differenti­ loyal and accepted their fate, as Than Tun on various crafts. An anonymous scholar ation between the words for cement, plaster implies, surely all the su rviving stupas would then took upon himself the huge task of and stucco, all three were known collec­ still be in a pristine condition. H ere it must borrowing similar known works from others tively by the traditional name of pan taw in­ be poin ted ou~ that from the 1980s on­ around the region. H e had them copied and gada)l; today, only the word ingaday (cement) wards, the majority of the ruins at Bagan assembled into one volume; this treatise has is used. A mason was called a pa)lan the, and have been rebuilt by public subscription survived and is now in print. Many of the the architect was known as the bitlzuka. and generous backing from the govern­ lost manuscripts were copies which had Although excavated fragments of stucco ment. This is to the intense disapproval of been handed down for generations. show that the craft was known to the Pyu purists in M yanmar and abroad. Volumes on parabaik were made from na­ (I st to 9th century AD), it reached its apex C raftsmen, including those connected tive paper which was either left in its natu­ during the Bagan period. At this once vast with the build ing trade, carried letthon para­ ral buff state, or painted black or white. Ink, and thriving metropolis, an enormous vari­ baik (pattern books) containing architec­ paints, cha rcoal or steatite "pencils" were ety of deftly crafted architectural deco­ tural plans and designs. As early as the used where appropriate. rations still cling precariously to ruined Bagan period, contemporary epigraphic ev­ Pattern books could also be on pay (palm structures; the craftsmanship has never been idence revealed that translated works from leaves: Corypha umbraculifera), with the text surpassed. Even though the examples at India in the creative professions were avail­ and motifs etched wi th a stylus. Such vol­ Ahneint are not in the same league, they able. I n many a dedicatory inscription, a rti­ umes were usually 8- 10 inches in length, are, nevertheless, survivors from a period sans are invariably listed, with the majority and about 2- 3 inches in width . These were which has barely been investigated. of names indicating an Indian origin; they small er in comparison to the larger and Interestingly, several old recipes for the were usuall y Tamils. T hese lithic sources standard-sizedjJay sar lztoke, which measured preparation of stucco have survived. The also reveal that there was a large Hindu 21 inches. earli est is claimed to be the version used community, presumably escapees from the The Myanmar have always been a liter­ during the second half of the 11th century subcontinent, from the worst of the appal- ate race, and over the centuries have sup- on the Shwezigon pagoda at Bagan. Among

106 Arts ofAsio the unexpected ingredients were milk, 35 ticals of silver for prepared stones And he was expected to be grateful for this cooked glutinous rice, honey, cutch, bael [bricks were not listed and may have royal bounty. What is galling is that all fruit (Aegle marmelos), sand, li me and glue. It been omitted in error] these insignificant items were tribute gifts was maintained that when dry, it became 30 ticals for mortar and cost this autocratic tyrant nothing. "lryauk ah lar mar the" (as hard as rock). l 0 ticals for jaggery cement [the in­ At Ahneint, the quality of craftsmanship Another variation can be found among gredients which included palm molasses]. varies from pagoda to pagoda, indicating the components from the recipe in the that these structures were built over a pe­ manual copied in 1847: The wages were: riod of many years. When the economy flourished, devout benefactors could pro­ Kaw yae (glue from boiled buffalo hides) 35 ticals for the mason [presumably also cure from the capital the expertise of the Tin le (an early name for htan nyet (jag­ the architect] finest architects and craftsmen in stucco. gery /molasses), from the boiled juice of 30 ticals for the bricklayers [numbers not During leaner times, they made do with the palm tree. recorded] whoever was available. As some of the mo­ Viscous liquid obtained by boiling the 300 ticals for the artists who painted the tifs occur repeatedly on several structures, bark of the following: interiors [in another inscription, the ar­ there is a possibility that these were the Ohn ton (species of laurus: according tists were merely given a suit of clothes work of a group who may have stayed on in to Judson's Dictionary this is Tet ranthem each]. the area, until the religious zeal and fi­ laurifolia) nances of the faithful were exhausted. Let pan tayaw (cotton tree: Bombax malabar­ Over one hundred years earlier, the Examination of the smaller decorations, icum) Shinbinbawdi pagoda inscription of 1237, such as geometric patterns, J_Jalair thwair Lair hmo (yellow-flowered cotton tree: Co ­ recorded that for constructing a huge reli­ (strings of pearls) or ywet than (leaf motifs), chlospermum gossypium) gious complex "Bokdalinga [an Indian], indicate the use of pan khwer (moulds); tem­ Sha saung (cutch: Acacia catechu) the mason, was rewarded with an elephant plates of metal were also employed. Al­ Thaphan khar (species of Ficus) [worth fifty slaves] and four suits of though Htun Shein mentioned numerous let clothes". net kariya (tools), he only listed the than let All these constituents had to be mixed R egrettably, during my flee ting visits I (metal hand; used on cement), and thit let with sand, sifted red ochre (one account was not able to locate data regarding the (wooden hand; designed for stucco only). said "powdered old bricks") and lime. cost of building the pagodas at Ahneint. These instruments were shap ed like a \l'lorkers, called pe the, whose role was to mix However, in time scale, the nearest piece of slightly cupped human hand for scooping the concoction, then pounded it. It was information is to be found in the inscription and spreading onto the brick facade and then pulverised further and left for about of the Ananda Oakkyaung at Bagan, built were the Myanmar versions of a trowel. A five days. The almost solidified material, to between 1775 and 1785. variety of scalpel-type devices phauk htwi which a "coconut-shell fu ll" of sesame oil It recorded that the three master masons (sculpted and carved) the stucco or cement. was added, was then removed and crushed [all brothers] who undertook the brick work On flat surfaces, background vegetal mo­ again about four times in a mortar. If were paid 600 silver ticals, the master ma­ tifs, or hatching, were etched with a bam­ the formula was followed correctly, the re­ sons who supervised the cement [and stuc­ boo ka nyit (stylus), a favourite design "filler" sults produced a malleable material with co] work also received 600 ticals, while their • being strands of circles within ribbon-like the consistency of beeswax or putty which ten labourers received 50 ticals each. This borders. That rows of leaves, lotus petals hardened when dry. There are warnings in seemed lavish by 14th century standards, and other linear work were sometimes exe­ the manual regarding the over use of any considering the donor, U tthana Raja, al­ cuted freehand is revealed by the variations particular ingredient, as it was liable to though wealthy, was a mere archivist at in quality and spacing. cause cracking and fl aking. Court. \!\Th ere pagodas have suffered centuries of During preparation, and before work In contrast, it is incredible to learn that in neglect, in places the original thanakha yaung could begin, the craftsman rubbed his hands 18 16, after building at Amarapura a huge (cream) colour of the stucco can still be with sesame oil to prevent the lime in the gilded palace complex with its numerous seen. In sections sheltered from the ele­ stucco from "scorching" the skin. The oil ceremonial buildings, the remuneration re­ ments it appears as fresh as the day it was also made the mixture easier to handle. An ceived by the Bithukagyi J\!Ihadan Taik Wun applied. Had this colour survived in its en­ inscription of 13 7 5, now in the Shwezigon (chief architect) from Badon Min (reigned tirety, the buildings would have presented pagoda, thoughtfully listed the cost of I 782 - 1819) consisted only of "two cows, an unusual sight in modern day Myanmar, building a temple, it also recorded the pri­ one silk and one painted pasoe (long waist­ as the trend at the moment is to either gild ces current at the time for materials used: cloth) and a bale of material for shawls". with cheap and garish "disco-shwe" (imita-

The effects of rain and whitewash on stucco Delicate stucco work almost obliterated by wh itewash

January-February 2005 107 Bearded Manokthiha demon (a beast with twin Encircling guardian demons in armour on a stupa bodies) ; a rare variation as such creatures are invari ably depicted with human faces tion gold leaf and paint from J apan) or ap­ verted by th e gentle Buddha, and in gra ti­ ply thick whitewash to the entire structure, tude had became the protectors or his including those with rare tcrracotta pla­ shrines. ques. While some grasp spears, swords or hal­ R cgrcu ably, ce nturies of rain and the berds, others brandish daung me (tail feathers tropical sun have turned the exposed sec­ •of the peacock) in each hand; the latter tions of cream to almost black. This has symbolism is an indication that they areca­ been caused by the algae which fl ourish pable of fl ight. In other parts of the coun­ during the monsoons and arc dehydrated try, although rows of demons encircling the duri ng the dry season, clinging grimly to the bell section has been retained into modern stucco. times, alterations in design have also been In the constr uction of pagodas, almost made. U narmcd demons clutching looped every example is built with a section known ga rl ands fo rm a ring a round the structure in as the ltkaung laung (bell) and the tltabeik a motif known as belu pan swair (demons ltmauk (upturned begging bowl). This is holding garl a nds); this was a gesture in­ the middle portion, a nd a largely un­ tended to depict their now pacific nature. ornamentcd a rea between th e base and th e The origina l India n a lternative employed fi nial. At 1\hncint, on the other hand, th e during the Bagan period, was the Kirttimukha stucco artist has created here a variety of (a lion-like or demoni c face disgorging loops bold vegetal motifs, interspersed with the of pearl s from th e corners of its mouth). faces of belu oryetkha (yakshas demons) . This According to Colleen Bcresford "this icon bell-li ke seg m c~ll is divided by ayin se (chest­ depicted, ori gina ll y, a gluttonous person ba nd), either plain or decorated. On some, doomed to cat its own entrails in hell long leafy tendr ils sprout from this divider these gradually evolved in to the more be­ and ascend onto the next register. nign fo liage and pearls". And as such, it T he demonic sentinels in the lower half later came to indicate sanctuary and sym­ of the bell have been deliberately arranged bolise good fortune. On occasions, the de­ as if leaning over a balcony, and glaring mons arc om iu cd, a nd only the garla nds down threateningly a t the viewer. There is used. every possibility that the apparel they are In the examples at Ahneint, almost all the wea ring is in fact a chat (armour). This pro­ bulging-eyed fi ends a rc bearded, have bu­ Side view of a daung-yin fi nial with tective covering was of stitched pieces of ei­ shy eyebrows and wear foreign looking supporting kinnara ther metal or lacquered leather, and was caps. Many menace the viewer by ba ring part or the standard uniform for the higher their teeth in a grinning display; the long ranks of the period. Doubtless, the stucco cani nes seen on later demonic faces arc this is evidence that th e M yanmar of th e artist felt it appropriate to depict the de­ miss ing. One variant has stylised leaves is­ d ay envisaged foreigners as a/z )1aing (brutish mons with a rmour, as their role was to suing from his face and beard, strangely and uncivilised), to be used appropriately as guard the shrine. Foreign observers may reminiscent of the Green Man (the spirit of d emons. find the presence of malevolent beings in­ the forest) or Europe. As Europeans and In­ Not all the embellishments around the congruous on a stupa. Nevertheless, it was dians arc o ft en depicted in unenviable sit­ bell area a rc or malevolent beings, some a rc believed tha t these monsters had been con- uations in the m urals within the locality, or multi-petalled fl owers with two plume-

108 Arts of Asio Kinnara with the kyay kway (Clu-Iing) decoration beneath it Kinnara with protruding tongue on the tympanum of an arch. One of the unusual features at Ah neint

tightly-packed stylised lotus petals or multi­ deep repose, a nd the downcast eyes dream layered flo wers. O thers consists of elabo­ of the fabled Himawunta (the Hcmavat of rately pl aited strips in terspersed between H indu mythology) and abode of such exotic rows ofywair ton (o rbs). beings. lL is in the a reas around porticos, corner O ther variations in ornamentation a re pilasters, arch pediments, lintels, niche­ pairs of karavika and naga. U nlike repre­ arches, and doorways that the pan taw sentations in later versions the design of thamma (carvers in stucco) or ingaday pan taw these two arc exceptional. T he crests, neck, jJyinna the (workers in cement a nd stucco) ex­ wings and elongated tail feathers of the hibited their prowess in this craft. birds, hang in graceful loops, with the sharp During the yaungyan period ( 1600- ends pointing down. In later models, the 1752), ornamental figures made an a ppear­ terminals invariably point up. ance on the apex of the mok or la gair (door­ Among the dragons, too, the three ah way). In the pediment area, known as daung mauk (pl ume-like hoods) emerge from below ) in (peacock's chest; simi lar to the clzo fa of the check, curl over the head, leaving the the Thai), which is a curving ornament on snout free; this characteristic design is one the edge of a roof, other decorative figu res of the hallmarks of this creature from the began also to be incorporated. One in pa r­ 17th to the 18th centuries. I n recent rendi­ ticular is of a da ncing kinnara, placed as tions, these hoods arc replaced by compli­ if supporting the curving ornament wh ich cated Aame-like projections hiding the in this version resembles a hooded serpent. snout and rising to a point above it. At A rare design of flowers and swags Although the craftsma nship is not of high Ahncint, the undulating and scaly bodies of on the bell section of a stupa quality, nevertheless, the a rtist has achieved the dragons frame a few of the sma ll door­ a pleasing effect. ways. The kinnara's hands arc depicted in the Some of the niche-arches display demons like projections iss uing from the centre; this traditional dancing gesture, palms to the with globular eyes, seated on the coil ed tail pallcrn has not been observed elsewhere. front, index finger and thumb touching, feathers of a pair of birds. Their hands are The borders vary, with loops, usually tlzazin and the remaining fingers curled fu lly back. raised in a menacing gesture. Conversely, khway fJan tan (curling sprigs of orchid), palair While some describe this as the naga some stucco artists have opted for plainer tan (pearl strands) and swags. profile, others call it the garuda (vehicle of symbols on these arches a nd have used the The bands wh ich break up the taper­ Vishnu) gesture; the symboli sm is unclear. magical kalatha oh (vase of ambrosia, the In­ ing structure a rc composed of either The serenely smiling Buddha-likc face is in dian kalasa pot, also indicative of fertili ty) .

January-February 2005 109 Doorway wi th naga dragons A portico, karavika (cranes) and a kinnara above

Tenaced stupa with guardian lions Guardian lio n with stylised mane

110 Arts of Asia ners of many of the shrines. This was pre­ that little has been written about this area. sumably for added protection. Surprisingly, even in the Myanmar lan­ The lion's bushy mane has been tamed guage, there are no more than two indif­ and crafted into neat layers, with each in­ ferent articles on Ahneint. Meanwhile, the tricately decorated section terminating in little Village of the Rhino slumbers on, its an upturned curl at the back. The remain­ magically-charged pagoda guardians of ing hair on the broad shoulders is trans­ stucco totally impotent against the apathy formed into a cape, and worked into tiny and vandalism of man. motifs in a variety of designs, mainly of a But desecrators beware, in the Kema­ floral nature. Long flame-like ribbons, which waya pagoda inscription of 1207, the pious twist upwards to the shoulders, symbolise donor and wife of the noble lord Kingathu the ha irs a round its ankles. Claws are at the Court of Bagan, guaranteed that after spread and sharp, ready to attack those who death, such a person would be "immersed came to the shrine wi th evil intent. waist-deep in a slab of rock 60 days' jour­ The hazard which the demons and these ney square" for all time, "and upon whom unusual guardians were meant to be con­ the saving influence" of the compassionate fr onting were the adversaries of religion Buddhas will be "exerted in vain". and vandals. R egrettably, the virtuous souls responsible for these defensive security fea­ Acknow le d gements tures did not take into account the uglier Grateful thanks to Colleen :aeresford and side of human nature. T erence R. Blackburn for their pertinent As the prosperity of Ahneint plummeted suggestions. and the inhabitants dwindled, shrinking the once prosperous habitation site into Further r ead ing on Myan m ar s tucco: small villages, the shrub j ungle began to encroach. Monastic lands and enclosures Fraser-Lu, Sylvia, Burmese Crafts Past and Garuda in a threat gesture with around ruins were farmed. i\1ore recently, Present, Oxford Universi ty Press, Kuala exposed tongue during the late 1940s and early 1950s, the Lumpur, Malaysia, 1994. countryside around Ahneint came under Inscriptions of Pagan, Pinya and Ava: Translation the control of Myanmar Communists; dis­ with Notes, (ed. Tun Nyein, Burma Secretar­ This was an ap t symbol as the land was ex­ turbing stories abound. Despoliation of iat), The Superintendent, Government tremely productive due to the annual de­ religious shrines has always been regarded Printing, R angoon, 1899. posits of silt by the river. as a heinous crime by the Myanmar, and What must surely be the most unusual dedicatory inscriptions regularly end with Pe Maung Tin, "Buddhism in the Inscrip­ decorative imagery characteristic of Ah­ terrible cu rses. Despite these warnings, some tions of Pagan", Journal of the Bu1ma Research neint, are the kinnara and the garuda. peasants turned to breaking into the relic Society, vol. XXVI, part I, 1936, Rangoon. Their uniqueness is in the way the imagina­ chambers for their precious contents. Cav- ' Singer, Noel F., The Sorcerer-King and that tive stucco artist has portrayed the ani­ ernous holes in Buddha images, pedestals "Great Abortion" at Mingun, APH Publishing mated faces- with a protruding tongue; and the structures, still bear witness to their Corporation, 5 Ansari R oad, Darya Ganj, close examination confirmed this descrip­ handiwork. Being in such an isolated area, New Delhi, l l 0 002, I ndia, 2004. tion, and did not reveal that it was an inept the thieves had all the time in the world, attempt at portraying a beak. At this dis­ picking off unguarded sites. No one dared Than Tun, Prof., Essays on the History and tance in time, one can only conjecture as to to complain or else wisely turned a blind Buddhism of Burma, Kiscadale Publications, the original meaning of this curious expres­ eye, besides who could they protest to? Isle of Arran, Scotland, 1988. sion, and that this was in all probability a According to the information from locals, T in Lwin, "Ananda Brick Monastery In­ threat display, similar to those of the Mao­ agents working for the national and inter­ scriptions of Pagan", Journal of the Burma Re­ ris of New Zealand. national antiques trade are said to appear search Society, vols. I & 11, December 1976, While the kinnara are elaborately de­ regularly in the region seeking ancient arte­ Yangon. picted, the garudas are relatively plain. The facts. The looting of cultural obj ects in the former are surrounded in a swirling mass of surrounding pagodas has increased, and Myanmar titles: elegantly trailing, or curling feathers, with many a shrine now contains only headless ornamental bands. Both hands are shown at images. The villagers are therefore natu­ Ant Maung, "Leik kya malar Ahneint phaya chest level with fingers gracefully arched rally suspicious of strangers. Such destruc­ phoo" (Pilgrimage to Ahneint), Chair-yee back. Long wing feathers sprout from the tion is now, of course, worldwide. (Cherry) magazine, Yangon, 1994. jewelled wrists. Each wears a tapering crown At the time of my visits, apart from fi xing Aye Myint, U, Myanmar hmu a/mu pyinna with a nimbus of fine feathers behind. An grilles to a few temples with murals, almost yokpon paday tha (A collection of Myanmar elabora te collar and strings of pearls com­ all the structures were still unprotected by designs), vols. I to V, date and publisher not plete the accessories. the Department of Archaeology. T his is un­ known. Other imagery connected with pagodas derstandable, as whatever little funds it re­ are the guardian chinthe (lions). Throughout ceives have to be reserved for the hundreds Minbu Aung Kyaing, Bagan khit Bithuka let the country, although pairs of these beasts of more prominent sites. Several of the Ah­ yar rrryar (Architectural Examples from the are to be found in profusion at religious lo­ neint shrines with wall paintings are on the Bagan Period), Ahthaing Ahwaing Sarpary, cations, they in no way resemble the living verge of collapse; some are being used for Yangon, 1997. animal and are highly stylised. These crea­ storage. With careful restoration by trained Nat Mauk H tun Shein, Mandalay Yinlryailzmu tures a re more often than not depicted personnel, and without the application of Ahnu Pyinna (Crafts of M a ndalay), Wa Wa sej ant (seated on their hind legs) . While the the ubiquitous whitewash, the unique pago­ Sarpay, Yangon, 1979. lions at Ahneint follow this traditional pos­ das with their cream coloured stucco would ture, the stucco artist has created them with most certainly become an a ttraction not Shayhaung Lethmu Pyinna Paungchok kyam (A unique embellishments. Although lions are only to tourists but also to all Buddhists. compilation of a ncient crafts from various usually sited at the main entrances to a pa­ The disappointingly few English titles manuscripts), Ed. U Tin Hla, Burma R e­ goda, here they a lso appear at the four cor- in the bibliography will testify to the fact search Society, Yangon, 1960.

January-February 2005 Ill