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Behind the Scenes

Behind the Scenes

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Behind the Scenes

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Tamara Decaluwe, Terence Boley, Thomas Van OUR READERS Loock, Tim Elliott, Ylwa Alwarsdotter Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with help- ful hints, useful advice and interesting WRITER THANKS anecdotes: Alex Wharton, Amy Nguyen, Andrew Selth, Simon Richmond Angela Tucker, Anita Kuiper, Annabel Dunn, An- Many thanks to my fellow authors and the fol- nette Lüthi, Anthony Lee, Bernard Keller, Carina lowing people in : William Myatwunna, Hall, Christina Pefani, Christoph Knop, Chris- Thant Myint-U, Edwin Briels, Jessica Mudditt, toph Mayer, Claudia van Harten, Claudio Strep- Jaiden Coonan, Tim Aye-Hardy, Ben White, parava, Dalibor Mahel, Damian Gruber, David Myo Aung, Marcus Allender, Jochen Meissner, Jacob, Don Stringman, Elisabeth Schwab, Khin Maung Htwe, Vicky Bowman, Don Wright, Elisabetta Bernardini, Erik Dreyer, Florian James Hayton, Jeremiah Whyte and Jon Boos, Gabriella Wortmann, Garth Riddell, Gerd Keesecker. Eichele, Gill Reeves, Gillian Kennedy, Gregory Kipling, Guillaume Murris, Hans-Martin Stech, David Eimer Helle MØller Jensen, Ida Degani, Ilona van der Special thanks to Jochen Meissner for his in- lee, Izzie Robinson, Jan den Boer, Jeff Randall, valuable insights, John in Tiddim for Jim Loughran, Joanna Benefield, Johannes his local guidance and Marcus Allender. Thanks Gregoritsch, John Schilling, Joost Sneller, Julia also to Laura Crawford at Lonely Planet for Oppel, Justin Straub, Kathrin Zormeier, Kees her support. As ever, thanks to everyone who Mol, Ken Riekie, Luaay Elamir, Madeline Oliver, passed on tips along the way, whether know- Manuela Wehrle, Maria Aviles, Marjolaine & ingly or unwittingly. Hanael Sfez, Martijn den Boer, Maurice Michon, Mauro Mori, Melissa Goldstein, Merja Akerlind, Adam Karlin Michael Darley, Michal Rudziecki, Mollot Brice, Cè-zù ba: first and foremost, my family: Po Nigel Holmes, Noah Impekoven, Oddgeir Havn, Chan, Tin Tin, Po Zaw and of course, my pwa Pamela Walker, Peter Novak, Philip Green, nghe and beloved great aunt, the strongest Rebecca Rosz, Ruth Banks, Sebastian Lübbert, woman I know: Tin Tin Thein. Thanks as well to Silke Wimme, Simon Spillmann, Simona Demel, mom and dad for always making a Simone Schneider, Sjoerd Gilin, Stefan Arestis, central part of my life, to Laura for bringing me 439 on board, to co-authors for all their help, and insight into this great country. I’d also like to to Rachel and Sanda for the love that keeps thank Win Tun and his family, Dr Chan Aye, me going. This book is for Gizmo. Naw May Say, San Moe Zar, Mya Mya, Cho Oo, Armelle, Naing Naing, Maythinzar Soe, Nick Ray Simone Herault, Rosta, Tina Rehm, Edwin A big thanks to the people of Myanmar, Briels and fellow authors Nick Ray, Simon whose warmth and humour, stoicism and Richmond, David Eimer and Adam Karlin. BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND spirit make it a happy yet humbling place to Biggest thanks to Cassandra and our daugh- be. Thanks to fellow travellers and residents, ters, Magdalena and Genevieve, for their friends and contacts in Myanmar who have enduring support. helped shaped my knowledge and expe- rience in this country. Biggest thanks are reserved for my wife, Kulikar, and children, ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Julian and Belle, as without their support and Climate data adapted from Peel MC, encouragement the occasional adventure in Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updat- unexplored corners of the region would not ed World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate be possible. Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344. Regis St Louis Cover : Local fisher in , I’m deeply grateful to many in Myanmar – Marco Bottigelli/AWL© drivers, guides, innkeepers, students and countless others – who provided tips and p46–47 by Michael Weldon

and Simon Richmond. This Bannister, Pete Cruttenden, THIS BOOK guidebook was produced by Helen Koehne, Kellie Langdon, This 13th edition of Lonely the following: Rosie Nicholson, Kristin Odijk, Planet’s Myanmar (Burma) Destination Editor Laura Simon Williamson guidebook was researched and Crawford Cartographer Mick Garrett written by Simon Richmond, Product Editor Grace Dobell Cover Researcher Naomi David Eimer, Adam Karlin, Nick Senior Cartographers Alison Parker Ray and Regis St Louis. The Lyall, Diana Von Holdt Thanks to Ryan Evans, Kirsten previous two editions were Book Designer Jessica Rose Rawlings, Kathryn Rowan, Moe written by Austin Bush, David Pwint Phyu, Lyahna Spencer, Assisting Editors Imogen Eimer, Mark Elliott, Nick Ray Amanda Williamson ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 440

Index

A ATMs 410 Bilu Kyun (Ogre Island) 117 Pakhangyi 175 A Myint 179 Aung Mingalar Island 99 Bird Island 102 Sasanayaunggyi accommodation 25-6, 407, , Bogyoke Black Rock 135 174 see also individual (General) 342-4 Bo Cho Kyun (Eyles Island) Shwe Baw Kyune 299 locations 346-51, 135 Shwe In Bin Kyaung 241 432 366-71 Bo Wei Kyun (Stewart Shwe Kyaung 150 activities 17, 19-20, 29, see Ava 263-6, 265 Island) 137 Shwenandaw Kyaung 237 also cycling, golf, hiking Ayeyarwady River 291-304 boat travel 421-3 Sitagu Buddhist Academy ballooning 156-7, 245 Aykab 314-18, 316 Ayeyarwady River 292-3 268 boxing 58 Yangon 56, 58 Snake Monastery 92 cooking courses 88, 157 boat trips 27-8 Thingaza Kyaung 244 B diving 137 156, 165, 27 Buddhist sites Bagan 10, 156-71, 180-95, kayaking 297 Peshawar Relics 239 181, 184, 10, 61 Inle Lake 207, 209 meditation courses 59, highlights 181 245 Pitaka Taik 187 246, 410 history 181-3 Myeik 133 Buddhist temples snorkelling 99-100, 102 information 157 Myeik Archipelago 137-8 Abeyadana Pahto 192-3 swimming 56, 58, 245 itineraries 188 books 29, 322, 336, 394-5 An Daw Paya 299 whitewater rafting 305 Myinkaba 167 border crossings 418, 419 Ananda Ok Kyaung 189 yoga 58 () 230 Ananda Pahto 187-9 New Bagan 167-71, 169 air travel 418-19 Mae Sot (Thailand) 126 Anandar Paya 139 Nyaung U 158-64, 159 Akauk Taung 151 Phu Nam Ron (Thailand) Anauk (West) Petleik Old Bagan 164-7, alcohol 382 166 129 Paya 193 orientation 157 261-3, 262 Ranong (Thailand) 139 Andaw Paya amusement parks temples 180-95, 181, Ruili () 289 () 320 184-5, 10, 61 Kyet Minn Nyi Naung boxing 58 Andaw Paya () travel to/from 157 312 Amusement Park 144 bridges travel within 157-8 Ashe (East) Petleik Natural World Amusement Ava Bridge 268 Bago 88-94, Paya 193 Park 51 90-1 Bamboo Bridge 298 Ananda Pahto Festival 19 ballooning Atumashi Kyaungdawgyi Gokteik Viaduct 280, 18 animals 397-8 Bagan 156-7 244 U-Bein Bridge 261-2 crocodiles 55 Mandalay 245 Aung Chan Tha Zedi 218 359-62 elephants 219, 397 352-3 Aung Htu Tha Paya Buddhist monasteries 280 tigers 401 banks 410 Bagaya Kyaung 263-4 Bawgyo Paya 283-4 antiques 256 Banmaw 297-9 Ko Yin Lay 119-20 Bodhi Tataung 179 archaeological zones Baronga Island 318 Kya Kha Wain Kyaung 91 Botataung Paya 36-7 Mrauk U 318-25 beaches Kyauk Kalap 124-5 Bu Paya Zedi 133 Tharabar Gate 187 Chaung Tha Beach 99-102 Kyo Aung Sanda 263 Buledi 189 architecture 65, 388-9 Kan Thar Ya Beach 313-14 Ma Soe Yein Nu Kyaung Bupaya 187 area codes 15 Maungmagan 127 244 Central 284 art galleries, see museums Nabule 127 Maha Aungmye Bonzan Chaukhtatgyi Paya 51 & galleries Ngapali Beach 309-13, 264 Daw Gyan 264 arts 389-95 310 Maha Ganayon Kyaung Dhammayangyi Pahto 190 Ngwe Beach 102-4 263 Dhammayazika Paya 194 Setse Beach 118 Mimalaung Kyaung 185 Dukkanthein Paya 320 Teyzit 127 Myaing Gyi 280 Map Pages 000 Eight-Faces Paya 193 (Banmaw) 297-9 Pa-Auk-Taw-Ya Photo Pages 000 Eindawya Paya 240 bicycle travel, see cycling Monastery 116 441 Gawdawpalin Pahto Mahamyatmuni Paya Shittaung Paya 319-20 That Luang Mong La 228 183, 185 () 284 Shwe Daza Paya 302-3 Thatbyinnyu Pahto 186 Gubyaukgyi 191-2 Mahamyatmuni Paya Shwe Inn Thein Paya 206 Thein Taung Paya 217-18 Gubyauknge 189 () 288 Shwe-kyet-kya 268 Theindawgyi Paya (Bago) Haridaung Paya 323 Mahazedi Paya 91 Shwe Kyina Paya 297 297-8 Hintha Gon Paya 90 Mann Paya 174 Shwe Muay Wan Paya Theindawgyi Paya

Hsin Khaung Taung Paya 192 126 (Myeik) 131 INDEX Kyaung 215 Meilamu Paya 55 Shwe Myauk Taung 264 Thetkyamuni 195 Hsinbyume Paya 270 Mingalazedi Paya 191 Shwe Myitsu Paya 296 Tilawkaguru 267-8

- Hsu Taung Pye Zedidaw Paya 269 Shwe Phone Pye Paya Twenty-Eight Paya 97  B 291 Mya Tha Lun Paya 155 211 U Khanti Paya 112 C  Htilaingshin Paya 265 Myasigon Paya 144 Shwe Yaunghwe Kyaung U Zina Paya 111-12 Htilominlo Pahto 189 Myikyaungon Paya 126 197, 2 Uppatasanti Paya 147 Htuparyon Paya 268 Myo Le Dhamma Yon 211 Shwedagon Paya 8-9, In 225 Kaba Aye Paya 55 Nagayon 193 45-50, 8-9 Wat Jong Kham 225 Kan Tu Kyaung 215 Nan Paya 192 Shwegugale Paya 91 Wat Yang Kon 226 Kaunghmudaw Paya 268 Nandamannya Pahto 195 Shwegugyi 186 Werawsana Jade Pagoda Kondawgyi Pahto 195 Nandaw Paya 312 Shwekyimyint Paya 240 262-3 Kothaung Paya 322, 12 Nga Hpe Kyaung Shwemawdaw Paya Wetkyi-In-Gubyaukgyi Kuthodaw Paya 240 (Jumping Cat (Bago) 89 189 Kyaik Pun Paya 90-1 Monastery) 206 Shwemawdaw Paya Win Sein Taw Ya 116, 11 (Ye) 120 Kyaik-Khauk Paya 87 Ngahtatgyi Paya 51 Yadana Man Aung Paya Shwemokhtaw Paya 94-5 Kyaikmaraw Paya 118-19 Nget Pyaw Taw Pagoda 197, 201 215 Shwemyetman Paya 154 Kyaikthanlan Paya Yan Aung Nan Aung Hsu Shwesandaw Paya Taung Pye Paya 197 111, 28 Nogatataphu Paya 264 (Bagan) 190 Yanpaymanpay Paya 332 Kyaiktiyo Galay Zedi 108 Nwa-la-bo Pagoda 116 Nyaung Ohak 206 Shwesandaw Paya Yat Taw Mu 225 Kyanzittha Umin 195 (Pyay) 151-2 Omwara Paya 174 Yat Taw Mu Pagoda 211 Kyat Kan Kyaung 195 Shwesandaw Paya Pada Myar Zeidy 290 Yele Paya 87-8 Kyauk Daw Kyi 56 () 143-4 263 Youqson Kyaung 174 Kyauk Gu Ohnmin 195 Shwesandaw Paya budget 15 Kyauk-si-yo Zedi 108 Pahtothamya 185 (Twante) 88 Burma 25 Kyauktalon Taung 116 Paya Thonzu 174 Shwesandaw Paya Burmese Empire 338-40 Kyauktawgyi Paya Payagyi (Budalin) 179 (Ye) 120 (Amarapura) 262 Payagyi () 128-9 Shwetaung Paya 323 bus travel 422, 423-4 Kyauktawgyi Paya Payathonzu 194 Shwethalyaung Buddha business hours 411 (Mandalay) 239 Peisi Daung Paya 322 89-90 Laungbanpyauk Paya Pharaouk Paya 322 Shwethalyaung Daw C 320 Mu & Shinmokhti Phaung Daw Oo Paya car travel 424 Lawkananda Paya 193 207 Paya 129 language 435 Laymyetnha Paya 322 Phaung Daw U Paya 289 Shweyinhmyaw Paya 121 cathedrals, see churches & Shwezedi Kyaung 314-15 Leikyunyinaung Paya 97 Ruins 241-2 cathedrals Shwezigon Paya (Bagan) Leimyethna Pahto 194 Popa Temple caves 172 195 Lokananda Paya 315 Hpo Win Daung Shwezigon Paya () Maha Aung Mye Bon Pyathada Paya 191 Complex 178 264 Thar Pagoda 276 Ratana San Rwe Paya Kaw Ka Thawng Cave Sittana Paya 193 Maha Bodayaong 288 & Ratana Hman Kin 125 Paya 322 Snake Pagoda 270 Maha Kalyani Sima 91-2 Kawgun Cave 125 Ratanabon Paya 320 Somingyi Kyaung 193 Maha Myaing Pagoda Kha-Yon Caves 119 Ratanamanaung 322 Soon U Pon Nya Shin 108 Mahapasana 55 Sakyamanaung Paya 322 Paya 266-7 Maha Wizaya Zedi 53 Myin Ma Cave 218 Sandamuni Paya 264 Sulamani Pahto 190-1 Mahabodhi Mingala Peik Chin Myaung 281 Zedi 97 Sandaw Paya 312 Sulamuni Paya 211 Saddan Cave 124 Mahabodhi Paya 187 Sanminedidisiv Paya Sule Paya 37-8 Shark Cave 135 Mahabodhi Shwegu 320 327-8 Tagaung Mingala Zeditaw Shwe Ba Taung 178 Mahamuni (Bahaman) Seindon Mibaya Kyaung 96 Shwe Oo Min Natural Paya 111, 112 Tayok Pye Paya 194 5 Cave Pagoda 215 Mahamuni Paya Setkyathiha Paya 240 Thabeik Hmauk 191 U Min Thonze Caves 268 (Mandalay) 241 Settayaw Paya 97 Thambula Pahto 194 Western Rocky 137 Mahamuni Paya (Mrauk Shin Pin Nan Kain 268 Thanboddhay Paya 178-9 Yathaypyan Cave 125 U) 325-6 Shinpinsarkyo Paya 174 Tharkong Pagoda 207 442 cell phones 14, 413 customs regulations 407-8 Rohingya 357 H cemeteries cycling 419-21 Shan 357-8 333-4 British War Cemetery Bhamo 298 Wa 358 89 290 language 435 etiquette 29, 382, 409 handicrafts 256 Lin Zin Kone Cemetery Mandalay 247 events, see festivals & Hanlin 302 263 Ngapali Beach 310 events Hantharwady Village 264

INDEX INDEX Rangoon War Yangon 58 e-visas 16 health 427-30 Cemetery 55 exchange rates 15 insurance 427 Taukkyan War Cemetery Eyles Island 135 55-6 traditional medicine 430

C -  C D central Myanmar 31, dance 392 vaccination 427

I 141-79, 142 dangers, see safety F hepatitis 428  accommodation 141 Daung Kyun Falam 332-3 High Rock 136 climate 141 (Dome Island) 135 421-2 hiking food 141 Dawei 127-31, 128 festivals & events 19-20 Hsipaw 285 highlights 142 death railway 117, 118 Bagan 194 Inle Lake 209, 217 Chauk Maung Na Ma 100 dengue fever 428 pwe 363 Kalaw 217, 218-19, 221 Chaung Tha Beach 99-102 diarrhoea 428 (Water Festival) 124 children, travel with 67, disabilities, travellers 19, 129, 362 Kyaukme 281 415-16 with 416 films 62, 336, 395 Mindat 328 353 diving food 17, 379-87 Mt Kyaiktiyo (Golden Chin State 326-34 Myeik Archipelago 137 cooking courses Rock) 107-8 Chin villages 327, 24 Dome Island 135 88, 157 Mt Victoria (Nat Ma chinlone 391 Dor Sor Bee 232 etiquette 382 Taung) 326-7 365 drinks 17, 381-4, 433 glossary 384-7 Ngapali Beach 310 churches & cathedrals driving, see car travel language 432-3 Nyaungshwe 201 Armenian Apostolic noodles 380 Pindaya 215-16 Church of St John the safety 329 Putao 304-5 Baptist 45 E street food 70, 251 Hindu temples eastern Myanmar 31, Falam Baptist Church teahouses 76, 383, 384 Nathlaung Kyaung 185-6 196-233, 198-9 332 vegetarians & vegans Sri Ganesh Temple 240-1 accommodation 196 First Baptist Church 112 384 Sri Kali 44 climate 196 Holy Trinity Cathedral 43 fortresses Sri Varada Raja Perumal food 196 St George Anglican Moat & Fortress Walls Temple 44 highlights 198-9 Church 211 239 history 338-51 economy 373-5 St Joseph’s Cathedral Sinkyone Fortress 264 2015 election 351 Eisan 232 211 colonial Burma 340-3 electricity 408 St Mary’s Cathedral 43 post-1990 Myanmar St Peter’s Cathedral 96 elephants 397 G gardens, see parks & 346-51 embassies 408-9 cinema 62, 336, 395 gardens post-colonial Burma emergencies climate 14, 19-20, see Gaungse Kyun (Shampoo 343-6 also individual regions language 433 Island) 112 pre-colonial Burma constitution 349, 373 telephone numbers 15 gay travellers 409 338-40 consulates 408-9 endangered species 399 gems 290, 376 hitching 424-5 cooking courses environment 396-402 geography 396 HIV 428 Bagan 157 environmental hazards GLBT travellers 409 Ho Lang 226 428-30 Thanlyin 88 golf holidays 412 environmental issues 400-2 courses Lashio 288 horse-drawn carriages 277 ethnic groups 18, 352-8 cooking 88, 157 Mandalay 245 hotels 26 Bamar 352-3 meditation 59, 246, 410 Nyaung U 160 Hpa-an 121-4, 122 Chin 353 crafts 390-1 Putao 304 Hsipaw 12, 282-7, 284, 12 Intha 353-4 credit cards 410 276 Htay Ko 232 Kachin 354 crocodiles 55 Yangon 56-7 Htonbo 151 Kayah 354 cruising, see boat trips government 372-8 375-7 Kayan 354-5 culture 336-7 Great Swinton Island 136 Kayin (Karen) 355 currency 14 guesthouses 25 355-6 I guides 28 immigration 418 Mon 356 Gwa 314 In Phaw Khone 207 Map Pages 000 Naga 356 Gyeik Taw 309 296-7 Photo Pages 000 Rakhine 356-7 443 Independence Day 19 Inle Lake 206-11 Central Market Mt Hpan Pu 124 influenza 428 Inya Lake 55 (Kyaingtong) 225 Mt Kyaiktiyo (Golden Rock) Inle Lake 9, 206-11, 208, 9 Kandawgyi Cinema Hall Market 289 107-9, 60 Inle Lake region 197-223 () 116-17 Coconut & Banana Mt Popa 172-3 Wholesale Market 54 insurance 409, 427 Kandawgyi Lake Mt Victoria (Nat Ma Taung) (Taungoo) 144 five-day market 203 internet access 409-10 326-7

Kandawgyi Lake Flower Market 240 INDEX internet resources 15 Mt Ya-The 108 (Yangon) 51-2 Gold Market 120 353-4 Mt Zwegabin 125 Lake 150 Hsipaw 284-5 Inthein 206 museums & galleries 80 Nyaung Toung 225 - Jade Market 240 Archaeological Museum  I Inwa (Ava) 263-6, 265

Rih Lake 331 Kalaw 218 (Bagan) 164  M Irrawaddy dolphins 301 Lamaing 218 Mingala Market 201 Archaeological Museum , see Lampi Kyun (Sullivan’s (Inwa) 264 Ayeyarwady River 291 Island) 135 Bagaya Kyaung 262 365 Paik Swae 289 landscapes 17-18 Putao 304 Bogyoke Aung San itineraries 21-2, 21-2 Museum 53 language 14, 431-7 Pyay 152 Buddha Museum 268 Lashio 288-9 Sake Nyein Zei 133 Cultural Museum 201 K legal measures 410 San Pya Fish Market 54 Death Railway Museum 354 legends 108, 241 Si Pin Tharyar Zei 129 117 Kadan Island 132 lesbian travellers 409 314, 315 Kakku 213 LGBT travellers 409 Drug Elimination Theingyi Zei 54 Museum 53-4 Kalaw 13, 217-22, 218, 13 literature 29, 394-5 Ye 120 Cultural Kalaymyo () 329-30 Loikaw 229-33, 231 martial arts 391 Museum 291, 294 Kan Thar Ya Beach 313-14 Lontha 309 massages Maka Kuthala Kanmaw Kyun (Kisseraing Lovers’ Island 102 Nyaungshwe 201 Kyaungdawgyi 315 Island) 135 Lwemun 297 Yangon 58 Mon Cultural Museum 111 355 mausoleums 45, 54 Museum in Commemo- Katha 300-1 Mawdin Point 99 ration of Opium-Free Kawthoung 138-40 M in Special Region 4 Macleod Island 137 Mawlamyine 11, 109-15, Kayah people 354 228 magazines 409 110, 113, 11 229-33 National Landmarks Magwe 155-8 Maymyo 273-80, 274 kayaking Garden 275 Maing Thauk 207 measures 409 Indawgyi Lake 297 National Museum (Nay malaria 428 meditation courses 410 Pyi Taw) 147 354-5 Mandalay 32, 234-60, , Mandalay 246 National Museum Kayin (Karen) people 355 235 238, 242-3, 247 Yangon 59 (Yangon) 39 Kayin State 121-6 accommodation 234, see Pakhangyi Archaeologi- Keinari Keinara 232 246-50 Myeik Archipelago cal Museum 175 Kennedy Peak 330 activities 245 Meiktila 149-51 Palace Museum 323 keyholders 191 climate 234 Meinmahla Kyun Wildlife Cultural Khaung Daing 210 courses 246 Sanctuary 95 Museum 315 Kho Yinn Khwa Kyun drinking & nightlife 253-4 Mindat 327-9 Sanda Muhni Phara Gri (Macleod Island) 137 entertainment 254-6 Mingun 269-70, 269 Kyaung Taik 323 kingdoms 339 festivals & events 246 mobile phones 14, 413 Cultural kings 340 Museum & Library 212 food 234, 250-3 Moeyungyi Wetlands 92 Kisseraing Island 135 Sri Ksetra Museum 154 highlights 235 289-91 Kyaikkami 117-18 Summit Art 52 history 236 Moken people 355-6 Kyaing Ywar 119 Thanakha Gallery 158 information 256-7 356 Kyaingtong 223, music 392-4 224 orientation 237 107-21 Kyaukme 281-2 Myauk Taw Win Kyun shopping 256 money 14, 29, 410-11 301-2 (North Twin Island) 136 sights 236-45 Mong La 227-8 260 Myawaddy 126 tours 246 Mong Puen 228 Kyauktan 87-8 Myeik 131-5, 132 travel to/from 257-9 176-8, 177 Kyun Philar (Great Swinton Myeik (Mergui) Archipelago travel within 259-60 Island) 136 11, 135-8, 11 Jama 315 236 Myin Dike 218 Surti Sunni Jamah 410 Myin Ka 218 Mosque 45 L marionettes 392 Myinkaba 167 Lahu Shi 226 motorcycle travel 246, 424 markets 17 Myitkyina 291-6 lakes Moustache Brothers 255 Bogyoke Aung San Myit-Son 294 Indawgyi Lake 296-7 Market 54, 2 Mrauk U 12, 318-25, 321, 12 444 N Paleik 270 Rangkhu 232 souvenirs 191, 61 356 palm sugar 173 337, 359-65 spas Nam Yi 228 Pan Mraung 327 responsible travel 404-6 Nay Pyi Taw 147 Nampan 207 Pane Ne Pin 218 restricted areas 25 Yangon 58 nat 172, 362-4 parasols 98 revolutionary Monks 343 sport 391 Nat Mataung 326-7 parks & gardens Rih Lake 13, 331, 13 Stewart Island 137 INDEX INDEX nat pwe 363 Cape Bayint Naung 139 Rihkhawdar 331-2 Sri Ksetra 154-5 National League for Floating Gardens 207 Rocky 1 135 street food 70, 251 (NLD) Mahabandoola 357 Sullivan’s Island 135 N - T -  N 346-7, 350-1, 372 Garden 40 ruins superstitions 364-5 national parks 399, see National Kandawgyi Chinthe Ruins 270 swimming also parks & gardens Gardens 275 Hanlin 302 Mandalay 245 Nationwide National Landmark Pakhanngeh Kyaung 175 Yangon 56, 58 Agreement (NCA) 351 Gardens 146-7 Yedanasimi Paya 264 synagogues Nay Pyi Taw 146-9, 148 National Races Village 55 Musmeah Yeshua New Bagan (Bagan People’s Park 51 Synagogue 40 Myothit) 167-72, 193, Water Fountain Garden S 169 147 safety 412-13 newspapers 409 passports 418 environmental hazards T Nga Ka Pwe Taung 155 Pataing Hnyin 232 428-30 Ta Moke Shwe Gu Gyi 261 Ngapali Beach 309-13, 310 Pataw Padet Kyun 132 348 229 Ngwe Saung Beach 100, 94-9, 96 11, 266-9, 10 Tai Arkong 207 102-4 Patingone 218 sailing 58, see also boat Tan Kyi Paya 187 North Twin Island 136 paya pwe 20 travel 127-40 northern Myanmar 32, permits 23, 25 Salay 173-5 Taoist temples 271-306, 272 Phaya Taung 207 Samkar 207 Kheng Hock Keong 43 accommodation 271 photography 411-12 sculpture 389-90 Tar Yaw 218 climate 271 Pin Tau 226 Shampoo Island 112 tattooed faces 327 food 271 Pindaya 215-17 357-8 Taungbyone Nat Pwe 20 highlights 272 planning 23-9 shopping 17, see also Taunggok 313 markets, individual numerology 364-5 Ayeyarwady River 292-3 211-15 locations Nyaung U 158-64, 195, 159 budgeting 14-15 Taungoo (Toungoo) 143-6 language 433-4 Nyaung Wee Kyun 136 calendar of events 19-20 Taung Taw Win Kyun 302-4, 303 (South Twin Island) 136 Nyaungshwe 197-206, internet resources 15 200-1 Shwedaung 154 Tawtamagyi 232 itineraries 21-2, 21-2 Shwegu 299-300 Tazaungdaing 20 Myanmar basics 14-15 Siang Sawn 330 teahouses 76, 383, 384 Myanmar’s regions O Sittwe (Aykab) 314-18, telephone services 15, Ogre Island 117 30-2 316 413-14 Old Bagan 164-7, 183-7, 166 repeat visitors 16 smoking 409 temples 17, , see also responsible travel 60-1 opening hours 411 Buddhist temples, 404-6 snorkelling Chaung Tha Beach Hindu temples and travel seasons 14, 19-20 Taoist temples P 99-100 plants 398-9 Thahtay Kyun 137 packing list 23 Ngwe Saung Beach 102 politics 336-7, 372-3 Than Daung Gyi 145 Pah Pae 232 social enterprise population 337, 374 thanakha 158, 303 painting 389-90 restaurants & cafes 73 postal services 412 117 175-6 South Twin Island 136 private guides 28 Thandwe 312 palaces southeastern Myanmar 31, public holidays 412 105-40, 106 Thanlyin 87-8 Bagan Golden Palace Putao 304-6 164-5 accommodation 105 That Jom Loi 226 Pyay 151-4, 152 Kanbawzathadi climate 105 Thaung Thut 207 Palace 92 Pyin Oo Lwin (Maymo) food 105 Thayekhittaya (Sri Ksetra) 273-80, Mandalay Palace 237-9 274 highlights 106 154-5 Shan Palace 283 southwestern Myanmar 30, Thazi 223 Shwebon Yadana 302 R 86-104, 87 Thingyan (Water Festival) rabies 428 accommodation 86 19, 362 radio 409 climate 86 theatre 392 rafting 305 food 86 Tiddim 330-1 Map Pages 000 356-7 highlights 87 tigers 401 Photo Pages 000 Rakhine State 309-26 Tilawkaguru 267-8 10 445 time 14, 414 vegetarians & vegans 384 food 307 climate 34 language 434 visas 14, 16, 23, 416 highlights 308 courses 59 tipping 411 volunteering 416-17 Wethali 325 drinking & nightlife 75-8 toilets 414 whitewater rafting entertainment 78 Toungoo 143-6 Putao 305 festivals & events 59-62 W tourist information 414 358 wildlife 396-402 food 34, 68-75 INDEX INDEX tours 28 Wabo 318 crocodiles 55 highlights 35 traditional medicine 430 walking, see hiking elephants 397 history 36 train travel 425-6 walking tours plants 398-9 information 82-3 - transport 26-8, 418-26, tigers 401 itineraries 37  T Mawlamyine 113, 113 wildlife reserves orientation 36  Z 420 Yangon 56-7, 58, 56-7 language 434-5 Green Hill Valley 219 shopping 78-85 Wan Loi 226 travel agencies 414-15 wineries sights 36-56 Wan Nyek 226 travel restrictions 23, 25, Myanmar Vineyard 211-12 tours 58 Wan Saen 226 225, 228, 273, 295 Red Estate travel to/from 83-4 Wan Sai 226 travel to/from Myanmar 418 201, 24 travel within 85 travel within Myanmar waterfalls women in Myanmar 358-9 walks 56-7, 58, 56-7 418-26, Anisakan Falls 281 420 women travellers 417 Yangon–Bagan Highway King Chaung Waterfall trekking, see hiking women’s health 430 151-6 290 TV 409 work 417 Yangon Circle Line 59 -Baw Waterfall 108 Twante 88 workshops 285 Yangon–Mandalay Hwy Pwe Kauk Falls 280 typhoid 428 gold 240 143-51 Wat Nong Luang 228 silk 263 Yankin Hill 242-4 Water Festival (Thingyan) Ye 119-21 U 19, 362 silverware 268 yoga 58 Union Solidarity & weather 14, 19-20, see also stone carvers 245 Development Party individual regions Ywama 206 (USDP) 372-3 Ywathit 218 weights 409 Y western Myanmar 32, Yangon 30, 34-85, 35, 307-34, V 308 38-9, 42-3, 48-9, 52 Z vacations 412 accommodation 307 accommodation 34, 62-8 Zarganar 394 vaccinations 427 climate 307 446 NOTES ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 447

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Camping Metro/MRT/MTR station Beach/Desert Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Eating Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) Skytrain/Subway station Glacier Drinking & Nightlife Taxi Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Mudflat Cafe Tram Park/Forest Underground station Entertainment Other Transport Sight (Building) Entertainment Sportsground Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above Swamp/Mangrove Shopping appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across and overland to . It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, , Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Simon Richmond Journalist and photographer Simon Richmond has specialised as a travel writer since the early 1990s and first worked for Lonely Planet in 1999 on their Central Asia guide. He’s long since stopped counting the number of guidebooks he’s re- searched and written for the company, but countries covered include Australia, China, , Iran, , Korea, , Mongolia, Myanmar (Burma), Russia, , South Africa and .

David Eimer David has been a journalist and writer ever since abandoning the idea of a law career in 1990. After spells working in his native London and in Los Angeles, he moved to Beijing in 2005, where he contributed to a variety of newspapers and magazines in the UK. Since then, he has travelled and lived across China and in numerous cities in , including , Phnom Penh and Yangon. He has been covering China, Myanmar and Thailand for Lonely Planet since 2006.

Adam Karlin Born in Washington, DC and raised in the rural Maryland tidewater, Adam has been exploring the world and writing about it since he was 17. He considers it a blessedly interesting way to live one’s life – and also good fun.

Nick Ray A Londoner of sorts, Nick harks from Watford, the sort of town that makes you want to travel. He studied history and politics at Warwick University before hitting the road for a life in travel and has worked on about 50 for Lonely Planet since his first foray in 1998. Based in , he covers countries in Southeast Asia, including Cambodia, , Myanmar and , with the occasional diversion to Africa.

Regis St Louis Regis grew up in a small town in the American Midwest – the kind of place that fuels big dreams of travel – and he developed an early fascination with foreign dialects and world cultures. He spent his formative years learning Russian and a handful of Romance , which served him well on journeys across much of the globe. Regis has contributed to more than 50 Lonely Planet titles, covering destinations across six continents.

Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona- 13th edition – July 2017 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the ISBN 978 1 78657 546 3 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum © Lonely Planet 2017 © as indicated 2017 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in Singapore All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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