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Tamara Decaluwe, Terence Boley, Thomas Van OUR READERS Loock, Tim Elliott, Ylwa Alwarsdotter Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with help- ful hints, useful advice and interesting WRITER THANKS anecdotes: Alex Wharton, Amy Nguyen, Andrew Selth, Simon Richmond Angela Tucker, Anita Kuiper, Annabel Dunn, An- Many thanks to my fellow authors and the fol- nette Lüthi, Anthony Lee, Bernard Keller, Carina lowing people in Yangon: William Myatwunna, Hall, Christina Pefani, Christoph Knop, Chris- Thant Myint-U, Edwin Briels, Jessica Mudditt, toph Mayer, Claudia van Harten, Claudio Strep- Jaiden Coonan, Tim Aye-Hardy, Ben White, parava, Dalibor Mahel, Damian Gruber, David Myo Aung, Marcus Allender, Jochen Meissner, Jacob, Don Stringman, Elisabeth Schwab, Khin Maung Htwe, Vicky Bowman, Don Wright, Elisabetta Bernardini, Erik Dreyer, Florian James Hayton, Jeremiah Whyte and Jon Boos, Gabriella Wortmann, Garth Riddell, Gerd Keesecker. Eichele, Gill Reeves, Gillian Kennedy, Gregory Kipling, Guillaume Murris, Hans-Martin Stech, David Eimer Helle MØller Jensen, Ida Degani, Ilona van der Special thanks to Jochen Meissner for his in- lee, Izzie Robinson, Jan den Boer, Jeff Randall, valuable Chin State insights, John in Tiddim for Jim Loughran, Joanna Benefield, Johannes his local guidance and Marcus Allender. Thanks Gregoritsch, John Schilling, Joost Sneller, Julia also to Laura Crawford at Lonely Planet for Oppel, Justin Straub, Kathrin Zormeier, Kees her support. As ever, thanks to everyone who Mol, Ken Riekie, Luaay Elamir, Madeline Oliver, passed on tips along the way, whether know- Manuela Wehrle, Maria Aviles, Marjolaine & ingly or unwittingly. Hanael Sfez, Martijn den Boer, Maurice Michon, Mauro Mori, Melissa Goldstein, Merja Akerlind, Adam Karlin Michael Darley, Michal Rudziecki, Mollot Brice, Cè-zù ba: first and foremost, my family: Po Nigel Holmes, Noah Impekoven, Oddgeir Havn, Chan, Tin Tin, Po Zaw and of course, my pwa Pamela Walker, Peter Novak, Philip Green, nghe and beloved great aunt, the strongest Rebecca Rosz, Ruth Banks, Sebastian Lübbert, woman I know: Tin Tin Thein. Thanks as well to Silke Wimme, Simon Spillmann, Simona Demel, mom and dad for always making Myanmar a Simone Schneider, Sjoerd Gilin, Stefan Arestis, central part of my life, to Laura for bringing me 439 on board, to co-authors for all their help, and insight into this great country. I’d also like to to Rachel and Sanda for the love that keeps thank Win Tun and his family, Dr Chan Aye, me going. This book is for Gizmo. Naw May Say, San Moe Zar, Mya Mya, Cho Oo, Armelle, Naing Naing, Maythinzar Soe, Nick Ray Simone Herault, Rosta, Tina Rehm, Edwin A big thanks to the people of Myanmar, Briels and fellow authors Nick Ray, Simon whose warmth and humour, stoicism and Richmond, David Eimer and Adam Karlin. BEHIND THE SCENES spirit make it a happy yet humbling place to Biggest thanks to Cassandra and our daugh- be. Thanks to fellow travellers and residents, ters, Magdalena and Genevieve, for their friends and contacts in Myanmar who have enduring support. helped shaped my knowledge and expe- rience in this country. Biggest thanks are reserved for my wife, Kulikar, and children, ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Julian and Belle, as without their support and Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, encouragement the occasional adventure in Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updat- unexplored corners of the region would not ed World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate be possible. Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344. Regis St Louis Cover photograph: Local fisher in Inle Lake, I’m deeply grateful to many in Myanmar – Marco Bottigelli/AWL© drivers, guides, innkeepers, students and countless others – who provided tips and Illustration p46–47 by Michael Weldon and Simon Richmond. This Bannister, Pete Cruttenden, THIS BOOK guidebook was produced by Helen Koehne, Kellie Langdon, This 13th edition of Lonely the following: Rosie Nicholson, Kristin Odijk, Planet’s Myanmar (Burma) Destination Editor Laura Simon Williamson guidebook was researched and Crawford Cartographer Mick Garrett written by Simon Richmond, Product Editor Grace Dobell Cover Researcher Naomi David Eimer, Adam Karlin, Nick Senior Cartographers Alison Parker Ray and Regis St Louis. The Lyall, Diana Von Holdt Thanks to Ryan Evans, Kirsten previous two editions were Book Designer Jessica Rose Rawlings, Kathryn Rowan, Moe written by Austin Bush, David Pwint Phyu, Lyahna Spencer, Assisting Editors Imogen Eimer, Mark Elliott, Nick Ray Amanda Williamson ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 440 Index A ATMs 410 Bilu Kyun (Ogre Island) 117 Pakhangyi 175 A Myint 179 Aung Mingalar Island 99 Bird Island 102 Sasanayaunggyi Kyaung accommodation 25-6, 407, Aung San, Bogyoke Black Rock 135 174 see also individual (General) 342-4 Bo Cho Kyun (Eyles Island) Shwe Baw Kyune 299 locations Aung San Suu Kyi 346-51, 135 Shwe In Bin Kyaung 241 language 432 366-71 Bo Wei Kyun (Stewart Shwe Kyaung 150 activities 17, 19-20, 29, see Ava 263-6, 265 Island) 137 Shwenandaw Kyaung 237 also cycling, golf, hiking Ayeyarwady River 291-304 boat travel 421-3 Sitagu Buddhist Academy ballooning 156-7, 245 Aykab 314-18, 316 Ayeyarwady River 292-3 268 boxing 58 Yangon 56, 58 Snake Monastery 92 cooking courses 88, 157 boat trips 27-8 Thingaza Kyaung 244 B diving 137 Bagan 156, 165, 27 Buddhist sites Bagan 10, 156-71, 180-95, kayaking 297 Peshawar Relics 239 181, 184, 10, 61 Inle Lake 207, 209 meditation courses 59, highlights 181 Mandalay 245 Pitaka Taik 187 246, 410 history 181-3 Myeik 133 Buddhist temples snorkelling 99-100, 102 information 157 Myeik Archipelago 137-8 Abeyadana Pahto 192-3 swimming 56, 58, 245 itineraries 188 books 29, 322, 336, 394-5 An Daw Paya 299 whitewater rafting 305 Myinkaba 167 border crossings 418, 419 Ananda Ok Kyaung 189 yoga 58 Mae Sai (Thailand) 230 Ananda Pahto 187-9 New Bagan 167-71, 169 air travel 418-19 Mae Sot (Thailand) 126 Anandar Paya 139 Nyaung U 158-64, 159 Akauk Taung 151 Phu Nam Ron (Thailand) Anauk (West) Petleik Old Bagan 164-7, alcohol 382 166 129 Paya 193 orientation 157 Amarapura 261-3, 262 Ranong (Thailand) 139 Andaw Paya amusement parks temples 180-95, 181, Ruili (China) 289 (Mrauk U) 320 184-5, 10, 61 Kyet Minn Nyi Naung boxing 58 Andaw Paya (Thandwe) travel to/from 157 312 Amusement Park 144 bridges travel within 157-8 Ashe (East) Petleik Natural World Amusement Ava Bridge 268 Bago 88-94, Paya 193 Park 51 90-1 Bamboo Bridge 298 Ananda Pahto Festival 19 ballooning Atumashi Kyaungdawgyi Gokteik Viaduct 280, 18 animals 397-8 Bagan 156-7 244 U-Bein Bridge 261-2 crocodiles 55 Mandalay 245 Aung Chan Tha Zedi 218 Buddhism 359-62 elephants 219, 397 Bamar people 352-3 Aung Htu Kan Tha Paya Buddhist monasteries 280 tigers 401 banks 410 Bagaya Kyaung 263-4 Bawgyo Paya 283-4 antiques 256 Banmaw 297-9 Ko Yin Lay 119-20 Bodhi Tataung 179 archaeological zones Baronga Island 318 Kya Kha Wain Kyaung 91 Botataung Paya 36-7 Mrauk U 318-25 beaches Kyauk Kalap 124-5 Bu Paya Zedi 133 Tharabar Gate 187 Chaung Tha Beach 99-102 Kyo Aung Sanda 263 Buledi 189 architecture 65, 388-9 Kan Thar Ya Beach 313-14 Ma Soe Yein Nu Kyaung Bupaya 187 area codes 15 Maungmagan 127 244 Central Pagoda 284 art galleries, see museums Nabule 127 Maha Aungmye Bonzan Chaukhtatgyi Paya 51 & galleries Ngapali Beach 309-13, 264 Daw Gyan 264 arts 389-95 310 Maha Ganayon Kyaung Dhammayangyi Pahto 190 Ngwe Saung Beach 102-4 263 Dhammayazika Paya 194 Setse Beach 118 Mimalaung Kyaung 185 Dukkanthein Paya 320 Teyzit 127 Myaing Gyi 280 Map Pages 000 Eight-Faces Paya 193 Bhamo (Banmaw) 297-9 Pa-Auk-Taw-Ya Photo Pages 000 Eindawya Paya 240 bicycle travel, see cycling Monastery 116 441 Gawdawpalin Pahto Mahamyatmuni Paya Shittaung Paya 319-20 That Luang Mong La 228 183, 185 (Hsipaw) 284 Shwe Daza Paya 302-3 Thatbyinnyu Pahto 186 Gubyaukgyi 191-2 Mahamyatmuni Paya Shwe Inn Thein Paya 206 Thein Taung Paya 217-18 Gubyauknge 189 (Lashio) 288 Shwe-kyet-kya 268 Theindawgyi Paya (Bago) Haridaung Paya 323 Mahazedi Paya 91 Shwe Kyina Paya 297 297-8 Hintha Gon Paya 90 Mann Paya 174 Shwe Muay Wan Paya Theindawgyi Paya Hsin Khaung Taung Manuha Paya 192 126 (Myeik) 131 INDEX Kyaung 215 Meilamu Paya 55 Shwe Myauk Taung 264 Thetkyamuni 195 Hsinbyume Paya 270 Mingalazedi Paya 191 Shwe Myitsu Paya 296 Tilawkaguru 267-8 Hsu Taung Pye Zedidaw Mingun Paya 269 Shwe Phone Pye Paya Twenty-Eight Paya 97 B - 291 Mya Tha Lun Paya 155 211 U Khanti Paya 112 C Htilaingshin Paya 265 Myasigon Paya 144