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Home , Burmese pagoda, Shwedagon Pagoda

The base or frame of the lac- cracking. The dry ash-and- There are four main types of querware object is made from lacquer coating is polished decoration used in : coiled or woven bamboo, or, smooth with moist rice husks kanyit hto (multicoloured in- HQT ƀCV QDLGEVU UWEJ CU VCDNGU or on a hand-turned lathe. cised designs), shwezawa or trays, from wood. Bamboo Then the interior of the object ( leaf patterns), thayo that has a long stem between is treated the same way. As (gilded relief work) and hmanzi joints is preferred because it necessary, another coat of ash shwecha (gilded relief work set gives smoother strips. Thin strips mixed with lacquer is applied with mirror mosaics). are coiled into circles of the until the surface is silky smooth. desired size and each coil is After this, a coat or two of The kanyit hto designs have placed inside the previous one glossy black, red or brown lac- a lively look due to the swift in a slightly higher level and, quer is applied, and dried for strokes of the point- if necessary, in smaller diam- at least three days between ed stylus (kanyit) eters. A complicated design GCEJ EQCV 6JG RKGEG KU ſ used by the may require several parts that nally polished with sesame oil craftsmen. For CTG ſPCNN[ CVVCEJGF VQ GCEJ rubbed in with a soft piece of VJG ſTUV EQ other to form the required chamois. For plain objects this lour, lines are shape. Notched edges keep is the last step but those with etched on VJG ſTUV HGY UVTKRU ſTO CPF KH decorations require additional they are tightly coiled, it keeps work. the additional strips in place.

6JG ſTUV EQCVKPI QH NCESWGT KU OKZGF YKVJ CUJ UQ VJCV KV ſNNU the spaces between the bam- boo coils. The exterior is coat- ed and the piece allowed to dry in a humid cellar with an GCTVJGP ƀQQT HQT VJTGG FC[U This slow drying is essential to prevent the lacquer from

AIR 21 Th e tools and techniques for creating lacquerware the surface of the glossy red water-based paint in negative decoration is seen mostly on or black lacquer. Then the re- designs, and when it dries the trunks used in monasteries to quired colour is rubbed all over sap of a neem tree is lightly store books. VJGUWTHCEGUQVJCVKVſNNU rubbed all over it. Before the the etched lines. The piece sap dries gold leaf is carefully Hmanzi shwecha is similar is placed in the humid cellar applied over the unpainted to thayo with the addition of VQ FT[ HQT VJTGG VQ ſXG FC[U places and left to dry for two faux gems and small pieces and then the excess colour is or three days. Finally, the of coloured, mirrored glass rubbed away with handfuls of whole piece is washed in wa- set into the piece to make it moist rice husks. The surface ter, which removes the gold more ornate. Thrones, , is again polished smooth fol- on the paint but leaves the re- cupboards and couches for lowed by another round of in- quired pattern in gold. The wa- royalty and utensils for formal cising and rubbing for the next VGTKUUCXGFCPFVJGIQNFƀCMGU ceremonies are mostly made colour, after which it is again retrieved. in this style. pavilions dried in the cellar and the are also often made in this excess rubbed off. The time For thayo gilded relief work, a manner. PGGFGF VQ ſPKUJ C RKGEG FG glossy surface is not necessary. pends on the number of co- Thayo is a soft clay obtained One of the most fascinating lours used. D[ OKZKPI NCESWGT YKVJ ſPG objects in is the lac- wood ash. It is formed into thin, querware Buddha image. Just For shwezawa gold leaf pat- pliable strings, which are then a few years ago it seemed terns, the plain glossy lacquer coiled into designs such as to be a dying art, but in the background is painted with a ƀQYGTUQTſIWTGUCPFINWGFVQ past few years a number of the surface of the piece with patrons have commissioned a dab of lacquer. After the such statues for their favourite whole piece has been cov- and so the art has ered as needed, it is allowed been revived. The sitting im- to dry. Then the entire surface ages are often taller than a is coated with a thin layer of man’s height, so they are by lacquer, gold leaf is ap- no means minor works. plied and the object is left to dry. Surplus gold The base of such an image, in- is carefully brushed cluding the facial features and away and the piece folds of the robe, is woven with KUſPKUJGF6JKUV[RGQH ultra-thin strips of bamboo, and ff 303 UWISARA ROAD, SANCHONG TOWNSHIP TEL. (01) 536 272, TEL/FAX : 95-1-500060 then thayo is used for detail- Right: ing. After the thayo is dry the Th e lacquer image is coated several times Buddha image at Nee Paya in with lacquer and allowed to Kalaw, dry completely after each ap- plication. The whole surface is polished smooth. Some parts of the image, such as the furled edges of the robe, are bordered with thayo and co- loured . Then the image is completely gilded with gold leaf, with care taken to apply it more thickly on the face.

In ancient times kings burnt their favourite garments and used the ash to make the thayo for these images. Before it was destroyed in World War II, one such image was enshrined in the Atumashi “Incomparable” Monastery

In ancient times kings burnt their favourite garments and used the ash to make the thayo for these images.

24 AIR Mandalay in Mandalay, donated by the Jumping Cats Monastery, shops in towns the second-last monarch of on Inle Lake. such as Bago or Nyaunglebin. Myanmar, King Mindon. A These industries produce el- number of lacquer images Although Bagan is the main egantly shaped bowls in a old and new exist all over the area for lacquerware produc- solid rose-red colour, while the country but some rare, old tion in Myanmar, there are red of Bagan lacquerware is and beautiful examples can other towns where it is made Although brighter and leans towards be seen at the Ngape Chaung as well, such as Kyaukkar in up- Bagan is the orange. Monastery, popularly known as per Myanmar, and small work- main area One family in Kengtung in for lac- eastern Shan State makes querware only gilded relief designs on production black lacquer but they hold an important place in the lo- in Myanmar, cal lacquerware industry for there are the excellence of their work. other towns Another unique style is made where it is in Kyaukkar in Shan State: Flowers are brushed using made as quick but beautiful strokes with well, such pastel-coloured enamel paints as Kyaukkar on a plain black or brown background. They also make in upper incised lacquerware but of Myanmar. an inferior quality to Bagan, and using only one colour. Kyaukkar lacquerware objects are hardy and used on a daily basis, while those of Bagan are kept for special occasions or as decorative items.

AIR Mandalay 25 Visiting AN OASIS CALLED

againg is situated on and around thickly wooded hills across the Ayeyarwady River from Mandalay. The town is at the foot of the hills and the higher slopes hide hundreds of monasteries and nunneries. They are so numerous and so deeply tucked away in the folds of the hills or behind tall trees that the area looks deserted.

During World War II people from Mandalay and Yangon sought safety in from the DQODU CPF ſIJVKPI PQY VJQUG UGGMKPI VQ GU- ECRGVJGUVTGUUQHUGEWNCTNKHGECPſPFTGNKIKQWU sanctuary here. It is one of the most peace- ful places in Myanmar, perhaps second only to Bagan in its tranquil ambience. Who would have thought that it was once a royal capital, although of a small kingdom founded by the disgruntled son of a king?

The kingdom of Bagan is said by some histori- cal chronicles to have fallen in 1287 to an inva- sion by Kublai Khan. When his army withdrew to , it left a weak puppet-king, Kyaw Swar, on the throne. Bagan fell into a decline, its strength no longer in the power of its kings but in its Buddhist faith, as it remains to this day.

Kyaw Swar was served by three princes named Raza Thingyan, Athin Khara and Thihathu, all no- VCDNGſIJVGTUYJQYGTGVJGUQPUQHC5JCPIGP- eral and a Myanmar lady. Not liking the fact that Kyaw Swar was paying tribute to Kublai Khan, the brothers eventually left Bagan to set up their own small kingdoms farther north. Kyaw Swar was later deposed and replaced by his son Saw Hnit.

Thihathu was the youngest and most ambitious of the brothers. His capital was at Pinya, and those of his elder brothers were at Myinsaing and Mekera. Myinsaing is famous for a bat- tle fought in 1301 at which the three brothers ff

26 AIR Mandalay by YIN WIN

Sagaing is one of the most peaceful places in Myanmar, perhaps second only to Bagan in its tranquil ambience. Who would have thought that it was once a royal capital, although of a small kingdom founded by the disgruntled son of a king?

AIR Mandalay 27 successfully repelled Kublai a royal capital. Even Pinya is Above: istrative personnel of Sagaing Khan’s armies. The retreat- now a large tract of empty Kaung Hmudaw &KXKUKQP JCXKPI VJGKT QHſEGU ing generals suffered further ſGNFU FQVVGF YKVJ C HGY QNF Pagoda here. A nearby village, Ywa humiliation when they were temples in the Bagan style, not Below: Htaung, is famous for its silver- Buddhist nuns study promptly executed upon their far from the Mandalay Airport ware, which won many prizes at a monastery in return to China by the furious on the road to the city. Sagaing in crafts competitions in the Kublai Khan. colonial era. The secular neighbourhoods Thihathu’s Pinya era is consid- of Sagaing are typical of up- As a town Sagaing is usually ered the bridge between the country Myanmar towns, with overlooked by visitors, liter- Bagan period and the estab- some traders, landowners and ally overshadowed by the re- lishment of the next great cap- farmers, as well as the admin- ligious monuments that have ital at . Thihathu later took been built in the surrounding Kyaw Swar’s queen, pregnant hills. Apart from monaster- at the time of Kyaw Swar’s ies there are many pagodas, death, as his own queen and ranging from the 15th cen- named this child, a son, his heir tury Htupayon Paya built by instead of bestowing the hon- Narapati Gyi, the king of Inwa, our on his own offspring. In re- to the early 19th century Aung sponse, Thihathu’s biological Myay Lawka built by King son broke away and founded Bodawpaya. One of the most a small kingdom based in well-known is Kaung Hmudaw Sagaing. His dynasty did not Pagoda built by King Tharlun in last long, and many have for- 1636. gotten that Sagaing was once

28 AIR Mandalay Htupayon houses a large col- Right: lection of ancient stone in- Boatmen ply scriptions that provide much the waters of insight into the society and the Ayeyarwady religious affairs of the period. between Sagaing Kaung Hmudaw Pagoda is a and Mandalay huge white dome built in the style of the Mahachedi of Sri Lanka.

Trilawka Guru Temple is in the compound of a monastery and is looked after by the resi- dent monks. It was built in 1672 during the Inwa period, and The hilltop the walls and corridors are Ponnya Shin painted with Inwa-style murals. pagoda This style is very different from provides a that of the previous Bagan pe- riod or the Konbaung period OCIPKſEGPV that followed. One can see of the Ponnya Shin Pagoda is set Shin, meaning there is always UVTQPI 5JCP KPƀWGPEGU KP VJG Ayeyarwady on the highest point of the someone ahead of you in of- features and in how the bod- Sagaing Hills. It is believed to fering soon. The hilltop pagoda ies were posed. A small lump River as well contain relics of the Buddha, RTQXKFGUCOCIPKſEGPVXKGYQH KPQPGEJGGMQHUQOGſIWTGUKU as Inwa and and people also believe that the Ayeyarwady River as well taken to represent the chew- Mandalay celestials offer ‘soon’ or food as Inwa and Mandalay on the ing of betel, which probably for monks and Buddha at other side. on the other began at this time; it is usual dawn, so early that no human for betel chewers to tuck the side. could get up early enough to Umin Thonze Pagoda is a quid in one cheek when talk- place his at the . long, curving shrine on the ing or in the presence of elders Thus the pagoda has earned side of a cliff with many identi- and superiors. the name Soon Oo Ponnya cal Buddha images along the

AIR Mandalay 29 curved wall. The many exits Above: applications of crude oil dregs. The local builders combined leading to the open platform Pagodas, visible The compounds are shaded local architectural motifs such from afar, dot give a spectacular view. by tamarind, mango and gua- CU EGNGUVKCNU ƀQTGVVGU CPF the hills of the va trees and fenced with thick ogres, with European images These pagodas were built on Below: JGFIGU QH ƀQYGTKPI RNCPVU QT and winged cherubs, while top of hills or by the side of Sagaing is home small fruit trees. Corinthian or Doric pillars sup- high cliffs so that pilgrims could to silversmiths ported the traditional tiered see them from afar, the sun and other Some of the monasteries were and pointed roofs. Somehow blazing on the gold-covered craftsmen built in the early 19th century, the strange combinations spires. Monasteries and nun- when the British had taken over turned out to be very charm- neries, on the other hand, are Yangon as their capital. Many ing. These huge buildings are inhabited by those who seek of these two- and three-storey now carefully maintained by isolation, and many cannot buildings feature Western pil- resident monks and retain their be seen from the road. Steep lars and arches. The kings of air of majesty. concrete steps sometimes me- Myanmar, ruling from Inwa, ander down into deep gullies, and Mandalay, Just a short drive from the with lanes branching off on copied the styles not for their bustle and noise of Mandalay, either side towards small nun- palaces, which were built of Sagaing remains an oasis of neries or monasteries built pre- wood, but for the monasteries calm. Time stops, the air is cariously on what little level that they built and donated to still and silent apart from bird ground exists around the hills. the Buddhist clergy. songs, and the tranquillity of Many are wooden buildings the hills restores and refreshes dark with age and numerous the soul.

30 AIR Mandalay Silverware from Sagaing

AIR Mandalay 31 Visiting

A SHORT WAY FROM INLE EXCURSION TO INDEIN by SIMON WHITING

32 AIR Mandalay One path will take you to a beautiful old monastery, another will take you to a pronounced hillock that houses a small pagoda and the third will lead to a covered walkway to the main pagoda complex.

AIR Mandalay 33 Left: A bamboo forest near Indein Pagoda Below: Pa-O women pass through the area Right: Ancient at Indein Bottom right: The view from a boat travelling along the canal leading to the pagoda complex

rust the pilot, trust the pi- stream. A quick look away giggling and feeling stupid. lot, trust the pilot: This is from the approaching ice- the rapidly re- berg, sorry lock, to my pilot re- Luckily I had the decency to peating itself in my head veals a James Bondian air of say nothing on the approach as our boat hurtles towards We shoot calm that belies the certainty or I’d be feeling even more idi- what appears to be certain directly into QHCDCVJHQTOGCPFſPCPEKCN otic. ruin. the small ruin for him. breach and +VŏU QPN[ VJG ſTUV QH OCP[ UWEJ The pilot, my photographer the boats Fine. I can swim and the cam- locks on the way from Lake and I are in one of the small prow lifts era’s insured. And yet, as we Inle to Indein – a pagoda canals or creeks that feeds into the air get closer, I can also see a complex that is just a hop, skip into the photographer’s para- as the tail small gap in the middle of the and a jump beyond the lake. dise that is Lake Inle. blockage: Could these be the dips but in a key to the pilot’s indifference? It’s easy to get there and there But there’s a problem – right ƀCUJYGŏTG Yes, as it turns out. We shoot a number of options on how now our boat is heading through. directly into the small breach to do so: You can hire a car straight for what appears to and the boats prow lifts into or motorcycle through hotels, be a beaver’s dam, or some the air as the tail dips but in a guest houses or travel agents variety of lock, that blocks the ƀCUJ YGŏTG VJTQWIJ CPF +ŏO in the town of Naungshwe,

34 AIR Mandalay which sits at the north end of Inle. Alternatively you can walk down the town’s main streets and ask one of the men loung- ing on or beside their motorcy- cle if you could hire them for half a day. Or, you could just as easily ask to have the Indein visit included in a day-long motorboat tour of Lake Inle. It really is that easy and it won’t cost a lot of money whatever way you do it.

For a relaxing journey I’d seri- ously recommend the boat trip. It costs about US$25, or 25,000 kyat, to hire a boat and pilot for the day, assuming you look around and bargain a little. And that price includes a trip out to Indein.

AIR Mandalay 35 Right and below: Souvenir shops and market activity near Indein

Along the way you’ll see wa- And after about 45 minutes In the heat of the day the ter buffaloes cooling their im- the boat will glide to a stop shaded walkway is a blessing mense bodies in the shaded along a strip of river bank with and allows tourists to wind their waters, children splashing a smattering of food and drink way slowly to the pagoda. along the edges and women vendors and, of course, souve- However, it also gives hawkers modestly bathing themselves nir sellers. From this point there and vendors plenty of time to with their longyis – the long are several options to explore: display their goods since it’s wraparound skirt favoured by One path will take you to a not a short walk. rural women – tucked up to beautiful old monastery, an- their necks. It’s a lovely journey other will take you to a pro- Along the way the walkway and your mouth will probably nounced hillock that houses a passes a series of older, some- hurt by the end from smiling small pagoda and the third will what rundown old pagodas too much. lead to a covered walkway to CPFKVŏUYQTVJſPFKPICPGZKVVQ the main pagoda complex.

36 AIR Mandalay examine these structures. The tury by the Pa-O people, who From there you can either quality of the stone carving still live in villages in the Inle The stupas continue exploring and check that adorns the nats, guard- lake region. There are at least out the aforementioned mon- are believed KCPUCPFXCTKQWUſIWTGUQPVJG 1000 stupas in various condi- astery and pagoda on the pagodas is nothing short of tion, lined up in rows around to have other side of the village, or buy stunning. In fact it’s nearly as the main pagoda, which is been built a well-earned cool drink and good as the best works on dis- in turn ringed by golden and in the 8th watch young novice monks play in Bagan or even Angkor white stupas. It’s an attrac- and village children play in the in Cambodia. And best of tive scene and one best ex- century by shallow waters of the creek for all, you’ll probably have them perienced from the spot. the Pa-O a while. all to yourself. Adventurously I climbed one people, who of the overlooking hills hop- And whenever you’re ready to As you approach Indein ing to get a better view but still live in NGCXG [QWT DQCV RKNQV YKNN ſPF Pagoda the path takes an up- only earned myself a num- villages in you and most likely the return hill slant and the forest of thin ber of scratches from the the Inle lake trip to the lake will be even stupas that surround the tem- more enjoyable than the one VQWIJUJTWDDGT[+JCFVQſIJV region. ple become glaringly obvious. through. No, it’s better to enjoy to Indein. You might even look the cool and peaceful condi- forward to those brief slippery- The stupas are believed to tions within the pagoda than dip moments when you pass have been built in the 8th cen- brave the hills outside. through the locks. I certainly did.

Scenes along the canal leading to Indein AIR Mandalay 37 Visiting

BOTAHTAUNG PAGODA: MYANMAR’S ORIGINAL SACRED HAIR RELIC SHRINE by MAW MAW SAN

38 AIR Mandalay otahtaung Pagoda According to legend, the is one of the most fa- original Botahtaung Pagoda mous Buddhist pilgrim- was built more than 2500 age sites in Yangon, years ago, during the lifetime known for its excellent location of the Buddha. At that time and its long history. Situated two brothers named Tapussa on the bank of the Yangon and Bhallika from the town of River in the city’s downtown Okalappa – later renamed area, the pagoda is always Dagon, and now the city of crowded with visitors coming Yangon – travelled to to pay homage to the Buddha on a trading excursion. Once as well as those attracted by there they met the Buddha, the pleasant atmosphere of who had recently attained the waterfront. Viewed from enlightenment, and gave him VJGWRRGTƀQQTUQHVJGJKIJTKUG honey cakes and paid him FJV Commercial Centre across homage. In return for this ges- from the pagoda on Strand ture of reverence, the Buddha Road, Botahtaung shines gave the brothers eight hairs bright and spectacular against from his own head to be taken the river and the greenery of back to Myanmar and en- the far shore. shrined.

AIR Mandalay 39 Upon their return to Myanmar shrined in . the RAF against the Japanese the brothers were met at the Tapussa decided to build a during World War II dropped banks of the Yangon River by pagoda at the riverside land- a bomb that scored a direct the king of Okalappa, who ing site and there enshrine the hit on the . The structure was accompanied by an hon- hair relic that was given to him. was completely destroyed but our guard of 1000 military lead- The monument was named excavations of the ruins follow- ers. The king decreed that the Botahtaung Pagoda for the ing the war uncovered the sa- eight hairs should be kept at  VCJVCWPI  OKNKVCT[ QHſEGT cred hair relic, along with two the landing site for six months (bo) who had met the brothers body relics of the Buddha’s so that local pilgrims could pay at the river. disciples that had been add- homage, after which the hair ed to the pagoda by later relics were dispersed: One The original pagoda met kings. Construction of a new was given to each of an unfortunate de- pagoda to enshrine the relics the two brothers, mise in November was started in 1948 and com- while the other 1943 when a pleted in 1953. six were en- British pilot ƀ[KPI HQT While most pagodas in Myanmar have solid interiors, the new Botahtaung was de- signed with an inner cham- ber where the uncovered relics are kept in a pagoda- shaped case, along with silver, bronze and alabaster images of Buddha. The sacred hair is exhibited in an ivory shrine decorated with gold and pre- cious jewels. To reach this in- ner chamber, pilgrims walk clockwise through a maze of mirrored corridors, where glass showcases contain many of ff 40 AIR Mandalay