wine traveller

text tim atkin mw

icily is a paradox. The largest island in the Mediterranean is the most familiar of RUSTIC AND REMOTE S The fertile vines at Italy’s 20 regions, thanks to the film Cinema Cottonera, the largest Paradiso, and horses’ heads, Marlon Brando winery on Etna. and the Corleone clan from The Godfather. But it is also its least typical. To people who know the fashion houses of Milan, the fren- etic bustle of Rome or the undulating, cypress-dotted hills of Tuscany, Sicily feels like another country: hotter, wilder, slower and a little more dangerous. This isn’t a region, the locals will tell you: it’s a continent with its own history, language and customs, a sense of difference that is proudly, even willfully, maintained. Trapani is closer to Tunis than it is to Naples. So close, in fact, that you can see Africa on a clear day and feel the dry heat of whispering Saharan winds. Sicily is Italy’s Andalusia, a region on the fringe of Europe, looking south as much as north, physically and culturally detached from the rest of the country. It has been heavily influenced by other cultures over the centuries – from the Sican- ians (from whom the island takes its name) isola to the Phoenicians, the Greeks to the Romans, the Arabs to the Normans, the Germans to the Spanish. Its wine culture is ancient, too. In Homer’s Odyssey, Odysseus gets the cyclops, Polyphemus, drunk on wine before del blinding him in his single eye and escaping. In Roman times, the Sicilian wines of Mamertinum, Tauromenitanum and Popula- tum were all celebrated for their quality, as was Marsala in the late 18th century by the British admiral Horatio Nelson. Those glory days are long past, however. Today, Sicily is one of the bulk wine centres of Italy, a significant contributor to Europe’s wine lake, bottling less than 20 per cent of The volcanicin Mediterranean island of Sicily is one of the most exciting wine regions in Europe, blessed with a unique what it makes. It shares with Puglia, the V O so-called boot-heel of Italy, the distinction of combination of abundant sunshine, varied terroirs, good indigenous grapes and the ability to grow most other varieties. producing the largest percentage of Italy’s basic wines: mostly white and what the Ital- ians call “bianco carta” or white paper, with little or nothing in the way of flavour or aroma. If Sicily is known as the “isola del vino”, it is mostly for all the wrong reasons. When Franco Giacosa, an oenologist from Piedmont, arrived to work at Corvo in 1968, he was shocked by the poor quality of the local wines. “Rustic, heavy and oxidised,” is

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bumpy, potholed roads – that is much more complex than its bulk wine image would sugg- est. One of the many remarkable things HANDS ON about Sicily is that its harvest lasts for over Fabio Sereci, owner three months, beginning in the August heat of Feudo Montoni. Left: Regaleali. Far of Trapani and ending on the snow-peaked left: Andrea Franchetti slopes of Etna in mid-November. As the of Passopisciaro. author Nicolas Belfrage says in his book Brun- ello to Zibibbo, Sicily has the potential to be “California, Australia, Chile, southern France, Jerez and middle Italy all rolled into one”. Enlightenment can take one of three paths, all of which lead to the same rewarding destination. The first is to gen-up on Sicily’s how he describes them. There was little temp- to work as chairman of Settesoli, a huge five best “indigenous” grapes. Sicily, as I’ve erature control, next to no investment in cooperative whose 2300 members own five mentioned, can grow a wide variety of French technology and even less interest in changing per cent of Sicily’s vineyards. Planeta pers- varieties, but you will be familiar with those the status quo. More than three quarters of uaded them to plant new grape varieties, already. As zibibbo is a synonym for muscat I Sicilian wine was made by cooperatives, both from Italy and France, to show the have excluded that from my list, too. mostly from bland white grapes such as cata- growers that “there was a world beyond Despite the fact that Sicily makes much ratto and trebbiano, and the climate was cons- catarrato and inzolia”. To date, the man has more white than red, most of it in the north- idered too hot to make good-quality wines. put 150 different varieties in the ground – west corner of the island, its whites are far If anything, things got worse after that: everything from aglianico to vermentino, less exciting. There are two exceptions: grillo higher yields, more planting of ill-suited fiano to merlot – some of which have been (mostly used to make high-end Marsala, in grapes, lazy winemaking. So bad, according extremely successful. preference to catarratto) can also produce to Giacosa, that “we would avoid saying our Sicily’s wine revolution really got under- superb dry whites: flinty, yet savoury like a SICILIAN SUNSHINE Above: Alberto Tasca of wines came from Sicily because the image of way in the 1980s, inspiring fresh plantings on good grenache blanc, while caricante (almost Regaleali. Right: the palms the place was so awful”. But then, it began to Etna, the active volcano in the island’s north- entirely grown on the slopes of Mount Etna) at Planeta in Menfi. Far look up. Marco de Bartoli started to revitalise east corner, as well as in Siracusa, Cerasuolo is crisp and tangy with a lemon zesty bite. right: barrels lie in wait at De Bartoli in Marsala. Marsala, campaigning to ban Marsala “spec- di Vittoria, Menfi, Palermo and elsewhere. The latter can be almost Chablis like if it’s iale” (a euphemism for a wine pre-mixed Significantly, new or revitalised properties given lees contact and allowed to go through with coffee, strawberries or almonds), Corvo like COS, Donnafugata, Planeta and Benanti malolactic fermentation, and may also deve- One of the many remarkable things about Sicily made its super premium Duca Enrico from made their first modern wines, inspiring lop toasty, riesling-style notes as it ages. nero d’Avola, and Tasca d’Almerita (Regalea- others to believe in quality. Of the three interesting red grapes (nero is that its harvests last for over three months. li) released its first really promising wines. Twenty-five years later, no one would d’Avola, nerello mascalese and frappato), the Just as significantly, Diego Planeta set up argue that Sicily has put all of its problems most significant in terms of plantings (16 per his own eponymous winery, while continuing behind it, but it is now one of the most excit- cent of the island’s vineyards) and, at the top ing wine regions in Europe, blessed with a end, quality is nero d’Avola. The grape may combination of abundant sunshine, varied have originated in Avola in the southeastern terroirs, good indigenous grapes (and has the corner of Sicily near Syracusa, the area which ability to grow just about anything well), still grows more than half of the island’s investment in technology, two dozen or so production, but is made by the majority of dynamic estates and even celebrity endorse- Sicilian wineries today. Not having one is a ment in the shape of singer Mick Hucknall, bit like an Aussie producer choosing to who makes a wine called Il Cantante on Etna, exclude shiraz from their portfolio. and the actress Carole Bouquet, whose Nero d’Avola is also deeply coloured and Sangue d’Oro is a suitably expensive sweet flavoursome, with some spice and good wine from Pantelleria. structure. There are lots of different styles, What’s the best way to approach Sicily? from soft, juicy and immediate to dense and LOCAL LADS The first thing to understand is that it’s a big serious. Salvo Foti, one of the island’s top CHILLY CLIMES Vineyard workers Frank Cornelissen take a moment at place – if you choose to drive across the consultants as well as a producer on Etna in tending his vines

Feudo Montoni. island, be prepared to spend a lot of time on his own right, says that the grape needs very OF COTTANERA. PREVIOUS SPREAD: PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY and FRAN K CORNELISSEN. DE BARTOLI PLANETA, M ONTONI, REGALEALI, PASSOPISCIARO, FEUDO k in mw, OF BENANTI, ti m at THIS SPREAD PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY Right: Alessio Planeta.

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DOWNHILL RUN The verdant grounds at Regaleali.

vineyards are immaculate, especially his CHARM OFFENSIVE Left: The Benanti Vigna Alta, and the wines can be elegant and winery. Above: the almost Burgundian when young. Benanti family. Benanti The west is also a mix of the good, the bad tour of Sicily. Not so long ago, Pantelleria Via Garibaldi 361, 95029 Catania, and the indifferent. The province of Trapani and Marsala were its only outstanding wine +39 095 789 3438, www.vinicolabenanti.it grows more than half of the island’s grapes styles, but that is no longer true. Today, there Located on the tamer, more touristic south (68,780 hectares) and is the source of a lot of are very good wines in almost every region of side of Etna, Benanti sources grapes from very bland white wines, although there are Sicily. The transformation has barely begun, three of the volcano’s slopes. Regarded as Sicily’s second-best red variety is nerello mascalese, which some decent wines made in Erice, particu- but not before time the “isola del vino” is being the family that revitalised the area and larly from chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, starting to live up to its name. its indigenous grapes since 1988, the Benan- tastes like a cross between pinot noir and nebbiolo. the new DOC is more likely to affect bulk merlot and müller-thurgau. tis have lived in the area since the 1820s. The sales as the wines will be bottled at source. By far the best wines in the west are prod- Wineries to Visit focus here is on caricante (under the Pietra- careful handling. “It has some of the highest strict rules than Etna Rosso, to enable them Whatever happens, IGT Sicilia will change its uced in the port of Marsala, even if this Cottanera marina label) and two red “crus”: Serra dell acidity levels in Italy,” he says, “and it’s very to make pure nerello mascaleses. And quite name (to IGT Terre Siciliane) later this year. historic DOC has had as many downs as ups Strada Provinciale, 89 – Contrada Contessa and the lighter Rovitello, both of reductive, so it needs a lot of air during right too, because this is a grape with great Even with these changes in prospect, it in the last 50 years. Today, Marsala has Iannazzo, 95030 Castiglione di Sicilia, which are made from mostly nerello fermentation and ageing. That’s why it works potential, yielding delicate wines that have makes more sense to consider Sicily as a reclaimed some of its former lustre. The best +39 0942 963 601, www.cottanera.it mascalese with 20-per-cent nerello capp- well in barriques.” the ability to age and, at their best, a delicious series of zones (the third pathway to under- producers only use grillo and do not add This is the largest winery on Etna – which is uccio. The wines are comparatively light It’s also the main grape in Cerasuolo di minerality and freshness. standing) than DOCs. Geographically, Sicily caramel or concentrated must. The top wines not saying a lot – but it still owns 55 hectares bodied, but age remarkably well. Vittoria (where it has to constitute at least 50 The second route to vinous enlighten- can be divided into four macro areas: east, are made, like sherry, in a form of solera of vines. It’s a family-run affair which started per cent of the blend with frappato but no ment is to study Sicily’s 23 DOCs (Denomi- central, west and, finally, the islands of system, using fractional blending to make a out in 1999, specialising in rather oaky, Passopisciaro more than 70 per cent), where its colour nazioni di Origine Controllata) and one Pantelleria and Favignana. consistent style over a period of decades. As high-alcohol wines made in a ponderous, Via Val d’Orcia, 15, 53047 brings depth and backbone to its softer, more DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Contr- The east consists of Etna (the coolest and Renato de Bartoli puts it: “The key to great international style, but has switched to finer Sarteano (Siena), +39 0578 267 110, fragrant partner. Frappato is also made on its ollata e Garantita), but this is arguably less greenest part of Sicily with vineyards at alti- Marsala is patience.” things in recent years. The reds are the stars www.passopisciaro.com own, producing gentle, easy-drinking wines useful. The main reason is that they account tudes of up to 1100 metres), the southeast The fourth Sicilian zone is the islands of here, especially Fatagione, which uses French Passopisciaro is the Sicilian outpost of with supple tannins and a floral perfume that for only five per cent of the island’s overall corner (the province of Siracusa, which is Favignana (a brief ferry ride from Trapani) grapes to add a little gloss to nerello Andrea Franchetti, better known for his wouldn’t be out of place in a white wine. production, most of which is Marsala. Some mostly hot and windy) and the province of and the more celebrated and semi-detached mascalese. Also try the L’Ardenza, a spicy, Tuscan property, Tenuta di Trinoro. He owns Sicily’s second-best red variety is nerello of these DOCs are little known, even Ragusa to the west, producing the more Pantelleria (93 kilometres from Sicily). The varietal mondeuse that is delicious. some of the highest vineyards on the north mascalese, which tastes like a cross between within Sicily. Anyone heard of Salapu- elegant wines of Cerasuolo di Vittoria. All former has only one producer (Firriato slope of Etna (up to 1000 metres) and pinot noir and nebbiolo, but is probably ruta or Alcamo? told, the east accounts for a mere 7374 planted grapes here five years ago, but Frank Cornelissen sometimes picks as late as mid November. related to sangiovese, according to Profes- The DOC(G)s that are famous are out of 120,000 hectares and is generally have yet to make a wine because of bird Via Nazionale, 281/299, 95012 He grows chardonnay, petit verdot and sor Attilio Scienza of the University of few: Etna, Marsala, Pantelleria and speaking a high-quality zone. damage and the effect of sea breezes), Solicchiata, www.frankcornelissen.it cesanese d’Affile, but his real love is nerello Milan. Frank Cornelissen, one of the Cerasuolo di Vittoria. This may The centre of Sicily is made up of while the latter produces some of the Even by the standards of the natural mascalese. The “basic” wine is an excel- leading Etna producers, underlines the explain why many producers the provinces of Enna, Caltanissetta, best sweet wines in Italy, made from wine movement, Frank Corn- lent introduction to the four red “cont- illegal link with nebbiolo. “Before this prefer to use the catch-all IGT Agrigento and Palermo. The last two dried grapes. What the two have in elissen is a controversial figure, rade” (crus): Porcaria, Chiappemacine, place started to get famous, the main Sicilia (25 per cent of the are by far the largest of the quartet, common is muscat of Alexandria, or producing small quantities of Sciaranuova and Rampante. buyers of nerello mascalese were the island’s production), although with 20,973 hectares and 16,625 zibibbo as it is known locally. Etna reds that divide critics and Barolo producers.” this could change with the hectares respectively. There are Pantelleria, like Marsala, is Sicily’s consumers alike. Cornelissen COS Today the grape is mainly grown introduction of the new DOC some very good wines made here link with the best of its past: muscat works without sulfur or cul- SP 3 Acate-Chiaramonte, Km. on the volcanic soils of Mount Etna, Sicilia from the 2012 vintage. by Planeta, Settesoli, Regaleali, was brought here by the Arabs in the tured yeasts and it has to be 14,500, 97019 Vittoria, +39 0932 where it is often blended with nerello According to the Conzorzio Abazzia Santa Anastasia, Donna- ninth century, probably to make rai- said that his high-alcohol wines 876145, www.cosvittoria.it cappuccio, a grape that is more rustic Vini Sicilia, requests have fugata, Cusumano, Morgante and sins, as the names of two of the best do not always age consistently. COS is one of the leading producers and may well be the same thing as already been received to reg- Feudo Montoni, but the majority local wines, Donnafugata’s Ben Ryé But the silver-haired Flemish in the Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG in carignan. Some producers choose to ister 33,000 hectares. Move of what is produced is fairly and De Bartoli’s Bukkuram, confirm. expat is an engaging winemaker: southeast Sicily. Created in the 1980s,

make IGT Sicilia wines, subject to less over IGT? Possibly, although unmemorable. of regaleali AND BENANTI. P hotography courtesy It’s an appropriate place to end our talented and self-taught. His it produces some of the best natural

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BRIGHT FUTURE The Cambria family PRIDE OF PLACE at Cottanera on Etna. Above: Renato De Bartoli. Far right: The cellar at Regaleali. Josè and Antonio Rallo of Donnafugata. Below: Giuseppe Tasca. SICILY AT A GLANCE very concentrated and unctuously sweet, it’s daring, too: unfiltered, wild-yeast ferm- Total vineyard area: 112,000 hectares estate in the middle of the island is home to but it’s balanced by acidity and sea breeze ented and left for 50 days on its skins before (64 per cent white, 36 per cent red) a cookery school as well as a modern winery. derful wines, but don’t miss out on the dry freshness. Concentrated, intense, yet very ageing in large oak barrels. It is silky and Number of producers: 453 Brothers Giuseppe and Alberto Tasca run the whites made from zibibbo (2010 Pietra Nera) drinkable, you can almost taste the flavours scented, but has more guts and depth than property, growing everything from sauvi- and grillo (2009 Grappoli del Grillo). of North Africa in the glass. many frappatos, lingering satisfyingly on Total wine production: 5.6 million gnon blanc and inzolia to cabernet sauvignon 1987 De Bartoli Marsala Superiore the palate. hectolitres of wine and must and nero d’Avola, depending on the altitude Donnafugata Riserva 2008 Feudo Montoni Rosso Bottled wine: Around 19 per cent and aspect of the vineyards. The best wines Via S.Lipari 18, 91025 Marsala, 1987 was the year of fortification, not prod- An unusual interpretation of nero d’Avola are Nozzo d’Oro (a blend of inzolia and sauv- +39 0923 724 200, www.donnafugata.it uction, as this is a blend of vintages, aged in (maybe it’s those old clones) with some notes Climate: Mediterranean, but large ignon blanc), a majestic cabernet sauvignon This historic family-owned estate, based in old wooden casks in a rancio-like style. It’s of mint and wild herbs on the nose and a differences between regions and and Rosso del Conte (a blend of nero d’Avola, Marsala, but with vineyards an hour’s drive quite sweet, with 50 grams of residual sugar, touch of smoky reduction. The palate shows picking times based on altitude syrah and perricone). away in western Sicily (the Contessa Entel- but the sugar is balanced by savoury, mature flavours of plum skin and subtle oak with and proximity to the sea lina estate has its own DOC) and closer to notes of old churches and incense. It tastes firm-ish, well-structured tannins. A wine to Number of DOCGs: 1 (Cerasuolo wines, not only in Italy, but the world. Giusto Planeta Tunisia on the island of Pantelleria, is run by even better in the cellar. cellar for at least another five years. di Vittoria) Occhipinti ferments some of his reds and Contrada Dispensa, 92013 – Menfi, the brother and sister team of Antonio and 2008 Planeta Maroccoli Syrah whites in clay ampohorae and these are the +39 092 580 009, www.planeta.it Josè Rallo. The average quality of the wines is Reds It might be an international style – you could Number of DOCs: 23 (Alcamo, most interesting wines. The range here is Planeta is the most dynamic producer in high here, but my favourites are Tancredi (a 2010 Cottanera Fatagione IGT Sicilia, almost mistake it for a Victorian shiraz – but Contea di Sclafani, Contesse Entellina, characterised by balance and elegance, with Sicily. The winery’s home is in Menfi, close to blend of cabernet sauvignon, nero d’Avola A$40 it’s brilliantly done, showing balsamic, Delia Nivolelli, Eloro, Etna, Erice, Faro, little or no oak intrusion. The pure frappato the south coast, but it sources grapes from and tannat), Mille e Una Notte (mostly nero A stylish blend of mainly nerello mascalese savoury aromas, well integrated sweet oak Malvasia delle Lipari, Mamertino, is a lovely expression of the grape, but the five different zones, making a sizeable range d’Avola with a little petit verdot) and Ben with 15-per-cent merlot and syrah, this is and a hint of black pepper. Like most of Marsala, Menfi, Monreale, Moscato di best wine is the amphorae-fermented Pithos, of stylishly packaged wines at facilities all Ryé Passito di Pantelleria, made from dried perfumed and finely crafted with aromas of Planeta’s wines, it’s polished, well crafted and Noto, Moscato di Pantelleria, Moscato made from frappato and nero d’Avola. over the island. Alessio Planeta is one of muscat grapes. orange peel and spicy red fruits, a touch of beautifully balanced. di Siracusa, Riesi, Salapurata, Sambuca 179. . to source w ines , see page Sicily’s best winemakers, equally adept at oak, grainy tannins and a fine tapering finish. du Sicilia, Santa Margherita Belice, Feudo Montoni working with indigenous and international Wines to Try Makes you wonder if international grapes are Where to Eat Sciacca, Vittoria and, from 2012 Largo Val di Mazara, 2 – 90144 Palermo, varieties. My favourites Planeta wines are the WHITES better partners than nerello cappuccio. You can eat extremely well, and inexpen- onwards, Sicilia) +39 091 513 106, Cerasuolo di Vittoria, the syrah (Maroccoli) 2008 Benanti Pietramarina 2009 Passopisciaro IGT Sicilia sively, in Sicily especially if you buy fresh Best known DOCs: Etna, Marsala, www.feudomontoni.it and their entry-point white, La Segreta, but Etna Bianco, A$87 Grown on Etna but labeled as a Sicilian IGT ingredients and cook them yourself. The Moscato di Pantelleria Based in Agrigento province in the centre quality is consistently high. There’s a saline, almost oyster shell character because it is made entirely from nerello cuisine is Mediterranean and shows the of Sicily, this traditional inland winery is to the white wines from this top Etna estate, mascalese (rather than blended), this is a influence of Spain, Greece and North Africa Main white grapes: cataratto, surrounded by wind farms, olive trees and De Bartoli best drunk after a year or more in bottle to quintessential example of the grape in its as well as Italy. The diet here is based on trebbiano, inzolia, grecanico, fields of wheat. Grapes have been grown Contrada Fornaia Samperi, 292, allow their flavours to open out. Lime and lighter, more Burgundian guise: delicate fresh fruit and vegetables, olive oil, pasta chardonnay, grillo, viognier, here since the 16th century and owner 91025 Marsala, +39 0923 962 093, citrus fruit notes are underpinned by refre- and floral, with supple red fruits and and fish, although Sicilians have a sweet caricante, zibibbo Fabio Sireci claims to have the oldest www.marcodebartoli.com shing minerality, with no oak influence. suave, mouth-coating tannins. tooth and are famous for their desserts. Main red grapes: nero d’Avola, pre-phylloxera nero d’Avola clones in Sicily, Marco de Bartoli, one of the giants of 2010 Tasca d’Almerita Nozze d’Oro 2010 COS Pithos IGT Sicilia, A$46 Many of my favourite restaurants are in syrah, merlot, nerello mascalese, all farmed organically. Understandably the post-war Italian wine scene, died IGT Sicilia A blend of 60-per-cent nero d’Avola Palermo – try Premiata Enoteca Butticé cabernet sauvignon, sangiovese, perhaps, nero d’Avola is the focus, espe- last year, but the fourth genera- A blend of mostly inzolia with 25- with 40-per-cent frappato, this unfil- (www.enotecabuttice.com), Quinto frappato, nerello cappuccio cially age-worthy examples sold under tion, his son, Renato, carries on per-cent sauvignon blanc, this comes tered, wild-yeast red was fermented in Canto (www.quintocantohotel.com), the Vrucara label. A vertical tasting the tradition in Marsala. from a vineyard that was planted in the clay amphorae and partially oak-aged. Ai Tetti (www.astoriapalacehotel- Leading producers: Abbazia is fascinating if you get the chance, Almost alone, this 20-hectare early 1970s for a golden wedding The result is spicy, light yet very palermo.com) and Vinoveritas. Else- Sant’Anastasia, Benanti, Ceuso, proving the variety’s ability to develop estate has long championed present (hence the name). Grapefruity focused with red cherry fruit and a nip where on the island, there is Trattoria COS, Corvo (Duca di Salaparuta), gracefully in bottle. the cause of great wine in Sic- and complex with a tangy, bright of tannins on the finish. If only all San Giorgio Il Drago in Randazzo Cottanera, Cusumano, De Bartoli, ily. De Bartoli is best known finish, it’s a wine that resembles a top natural wines tasted as fresh and (near Etna), La Madia (www.ristoran- Donnafugata, Feudo Montoni, Tasca d’Almerita (Regaleali) for its sweet and fortified Pessac-Léognan with age. appealing as this one. telamadia.it) in Licata near Agrigento, Firriato, Florio, Frank Cornelissen, 90020 Sclafani Bagni, +39 092 154 wines – the 2007 Bukkuram 2009 Donnafugata Ben Ryé 2010 Occhipinti Il Frappato Ristorante Torre d’Oriente in Modica Gulfi, Il Cantante, Morgante, 4011, www.tascadalmerita.it Pantelleria, Marsala Superiore Passito di Pantelleria, A$60 IGT Sicilia, A$69 near Ragusa (www.ristorantetorred- Occhipinti, Palari, Passopisciaro, Better known by the name of its leading 10 Anni and 1987 Marsala Like drinking liquid baklava, this has Arianna Occhipinti makes one of the oriente.it), Al Duomo (www.risto- Planeta, Sangue d’Oro, Regaleali, v brand, Regaleali, this family-owned Superiore Riserva – are won- notes of raisins, spices and honey. It’s . regaleali and cottanera DONNFUGATA, DE BARTOLI, k in mw, of T i m at P hotography courtesy country in that ; w here unlisted , ines are unavailable prices are appro x i m ate most graceful frappatos in Sicily. But rantealduomo.it) in Taormina. Tenuta di Fessina, Valle dell’Acate.

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