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Home , Kullaberg, Scania

WANDER A Day in o

SkaneSweden’s southern county unveils a different idea of to Amrita Das.

ON AN OVERCAST DAY, we took the Scandlines from design like ornamental windows and bright colours Helsingør, to , . The including reds, yellows, and oranges. geographies of the two countries were as different as The sights changed to forest trails as we drove up to the names of their connecting towns were similar. the peninsular . Surrounded No sooner did I arrive at Skåne (also called ), by the Øresund (The Sound) and straits, I the southernmost county of Sweden, that the low- panned my head, gluing a pair of binoculars to my eyes, hanging clouds lifted. The landscape changed to take in the spectacular panorama from Kullaberg dramatically; I was surrounded by water on all sides Lighthouse. This, I thought, is not how I had imagined beyond the idyllic countryside. The houses were a mix of Skåne to be. After all, Scandinavia is assumed to be National Romantic style of architecture—made of brick gloomy and grey. But I saw shimmering blue waters and with inverted V-roofs—and contemporary with numerous sailboats, under a crisp, sky. GUSTAF EMANUELSSON/FOLIO/GETTYIMAGES GUSTAF

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Clockwise from far left: The Kullaberg Lighthouse offers spectacular panoramas tinted azure blue; many sailboats can be spotted on the surrounding straits; the Swedish ritual of fika sees families and friends come together to enjoy coffee and pastries.

We walked a few down for an exciting adventure—porpoise safari. After a few minutes of anxiety on a rather buoyant ridge-inflatable boat (RIB), I tried to ease into my seat and spot the small-toothed aquatic mammals. Our hopes started to soon expanded with Höganäs APA (American Pale Ale), dwindle in a matter of minutes. Whether that was a African Pale Ale High Nose, and Miss Behave IPA. They result of no porpoise in sight or the overbearing sun, I now sell all over Scandinavia, Germany, USA, and was not sure. But an hour later, when our boat parked Dubai. Magnus Einarsen in the brewery poured me a From left: The 190- '' skyscraper soars above back at the bay, we felt victorious having spotted two sample of their famous APA and studied my reaction Västra Mamnen; a kayaker rows towards the Øresund Bridge. porpoises and a few seals. with his curious eyes. After a few seconds of silence, I On my way up to the Visitor’s Centre, naturum answered his silent questions. I loved the APA’s hoppy Kullaberg, I saw chiselled cliffs rise symmetrically yet delicious flavour, though the malty IPA did not suit and using solar energy for heating and electricity. from the . Some cliffs were interrupted with green my taste. He cheerfully responded to my feedback, Towards the end of the road from Ohboy Hotell, the shrubs, and hikers could be seen on those trails. There when I realised his big and intimidating stature was in landmark Turning Torso jutted out. This 54-storeyed were also secluded for picnickers. Driving away complete contradiction to his lively personality. In Flickorna Lundgren, in Skäret, I met even more residential skyscraper has a 90o twist from the base to from Kullaberg Nature Reserve, I waved at friendly and cheerful , if that was possible. the top. Capturing it in one frame proved to be a bit of a bikers who arduously pedalled on the incline. Flickorna Lundgren is a charming house immersed in challenge. Next, we walked to Sundspromenaden Next, we made our way to Höganäs Saluhall. This history. Mats and his wife, Ann-Lie, are the second where local Swedes came out to enjoy the sun. Most sat market hall is only six years old and a modern place to generation who run this cottage, which has been by the Øresund, while others swum in it. I noticed a few shop for locally produced groceries, meat, and food serving coffee and cakes since 1938. Mats tried to skateboarders and many cyclists, and a group of young products. Open through the year, it is frequented by convince me that it was the tranquillity of the place that girls who danced to music from their own stereo. locals who purchase Swedish food produce like freshly brought people there. “When you’re passing through At a distance, across the glistening sea, I saw the edgy caught herring, new potatoes, cheese, jams and oils, the tree (at the entrance), you just relax.” Øresund Bridge, blurred by the golden evening sun. This and other ingredients. I walked around looking at the I, on the other hand, am quite certain that it is the bridge would take me back to Denmark, with the new larger-than-life asparagus, the kitsch-bottled traditional experience of fika that makes their guests idea of Scandinavia that I now had. A Scandinavia where raspberry jams, and locally grown vegetables like red, revisit. Fika, a Swedish ritual where the entire family the sun shines at night, where people communicate with yellow, and green tomatoes. Further inside the market, and friends come together to enjoy a cup (or more) of their smiles, and where blue is the warmest colour. I swiftly walked across the bakery towards local coffee along with pastries, in the outdoors of this ceramics. The municipal of Höganäs is known for its thatched red house is truly comforting. Flickorna well established ceramic industry. Höganäs Keramik Lundgren’s homemade ‘vanilla hearts’ are a favourite dates back to 1909, and these salt-glazed earthenware with everyone. Though I also loved the freshly baked THE DETAILS (from `13,296; orenasslott.com), 15 kilometres from Helsingborg. were one of my primary motivators to visit Skåne. Scania ring with cardamom and sweet chimney GETTING THERE The display in front of me included the characteristic sweepers (a crusty bite made with eggs, nuts, and Many airlines like Lufthansa, Emirates, EAT and Swiss offer one-stop flights to In confectionery, try spettekaka brown Höganäs jugs (in many sizes), glasses and chocolate). We whiled away our time under the late Airport (CPH) from Delhi (pyramid cake) or äggakaga (egg cake). modern monochrome and abstract artefacts, crockery, afternoon sun with copious amounts of caffeine and and Mumbai. From there, take the In main course, preparations of goose and a full range of home-decor items. I walked around delicious cakes—keeping the spirit of fika alive. 20-minute train ride to Malmö. and constitute traditional cuisine. a couple of stores for some time, trying to pick the Since we were in the county, a quick 40-minute STAY SHOP perfect souvenir and eventually arriving at a colourful detour to the capital, Malmö, was mandatory. My Clarion Hotel and Congress Malmö Try Höganäs Saluhall or Malmö Live (from `8,500; nordicchoicehotels. Saluhall for a market hall experience. ceramic trivet from Höganäsgruppen store—one of the personal interests vested in the unique Ohboy Hotell com) is centrally located and a few Formargruppen on Engelbrektsgatan, many local manufacturers. (ohboy.se), where guests are encouraged to stay with steps away from Malmö Central Malmö; and Wallåkra Stenkärlsfabrik My aimless wandering in the market was their cycles on long- or short-term basis. It is a fully Station, with sea and city views. on Drejarestigen, Vallåkra, are good for interrupted when a fellow traveller informed me of a sustainable hotel with apartments, and practises Choose The Lodge (from `26,000; the local crafts including ceramics. Stores lodge.se) between Malmö and , like Marimekko on Skomakaregatan local microbrewery in the vicinity. Höganäs Bryggeri sustainability by promoting bikes as a mode of for an indulgent spa stay. Experience and Norrgavel on Engelbrektsgatan,

started operations in 2013 with the Höganäs Lager, but AMRITA DAS (2) FROM LEFT: MANFRED GOTTSCHALK/ALAMY; LEIF JOHANSSON/VISIT SKÅNE transport, growing vegetation on roofs and courtyards, royalty in the modern Örenäs Castle Malmö house Scandinavian designs.

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