Wine A Scientific Exploration Edited by Merton Sandler Imperial College Medical School London, UK and Roger Pinder Organon Inc. USA First published 2003 by Taylor & Francis 11 New Fetter Lane, London EC4P 4EE Simultaneously published in the USA and Canada by Taylor & Francis Inc, 29 West 35th Street, New York, NY 10001 Taylor & Francis is an imprint of the Taylor & Francis Group © 2003 Merton Sandler and Roger Pinder Typeset in 11/12pt Garamond 3 by Graphicraft Limited, Hong Kong Printed and bound in Great Britain by The Cromwell Press, Trowbridge, Wiltshire All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reprinted or reproduced or utilised in any form or by any electronic, mechanical, or other means, now known or hereafter invented, including photocopying and recording, or in any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publishers. Every effort has been made to ensure that the advice and information in this book is true and accurate at the time of going to press. However, neither the publisher nor the authors can accept any legal responsibility or liability for any errors or omissions that may be made. In the case of drug administration, any medical procedure or the use of technical equipment mentioned within this book, you are strongly advised to consult the manufacturer’s guidelines. British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library Library of Congress Cataloging in Publication Data A catalog record has been requested ISBN 0-415-24734-9 There are more old drunkards than old doctors. Benjamin Franklin (1706–1790) Contents List of figures ix List of tables xi List of contributors xii Preface xiv 1 Drinking wine 1 R. GEORGE 2 The history of wine as a medicine 21 P. A. NORRIE 3 Archaeology and the origins of wine production 56 J. M. RENFREW 4 Saving the vine from Phylloxera: a never-ending battle 70 G. GALE 5 Wine and heart disease: a statistical approach 92 M. BOBAK AND M. MARMOT 6 Wine, alcohol and cardiovascular diseases 108 A. L. KLATSKY 7 Wine flavonoids, LDL cholesterol oxidation and atherosclerosis 140 M. AVIRAM AND B. FUHRMAN 8 Resveratrol: biochemistry, cell biology and the potential role in disease prevention 160 D. M. GOLDBERG AND G. J. SOLEAS viii Contents 9 Grape-derived wine flavonoids and stilbenes 199 G. L. CREASY AND L. L. CREASY 10 Modern biotechnology of winemaking 228 R. S. JACKSON 11 The identity and parentage of wine grapes 260 R. M. PINDER AND C. P. MEREDITH 12 Wine and migraine 274 M. SANDLER 13 Wine: protective in macular degeneration 285 T. O. OBISESAN 14 Antimicrobial effects of wine 299 M. E. WEISSE AND R. S. MOORE Index 314 List of figures Figure 5.1 Alcohol consumption and all-cause mortality in US men and women. 93 Figure 5.2 Alcohol consumption and mortality from coronary heart disease in US men. 95 Figure 5.3 Alcohol consumption and mortality from coronary heart disease in US women. 95 Figure 6.1 Mean systolic blood pressures (upper half) and mean diastolic blood pressures (lower half) for white, black or Asian men and women with known drinking habits. 115 Figure 7.1 Antiatherogenic effects of wine polyphenols. 143 Figure 7.2 The effect of alcohol added to whole squeezed grapes on the wine polyphenol content and on its antioxidant capacity. 145 Figure 7.3 The antioxidative effects of red wine compared with white wine consumption on LDL oxidation. 147 Figure 7.4 Effects of catechin, quercetin or red wine consumption by E° mice on the size of the atherosclerotic lesion area of their aortic arch. 149 Figure 7.5 Mechanisms responsible for the antiatherosclerotic effects of red wine consumption by E° mice. 150 Figure 7.6 The effect of catechin, quercetin, or red wine consumption by E° mice on their serum paraoxonase activity. 151 Figure 7.7 Effect of wine polyphenols on LDL cholesterol oxidation and atherosclerosis. 153 Figure 9.1 Ring-numbering system for flavonoids and stilbenes. 200 Figure 9.2 A- and B-ring substitutions for common grape flavonoids. 202 Figure 9.3 trans-Resveratrol, the first stilbene to be produced by grapevines. 206 Figure 9.4 Commonly found resveratrol derivatives in grapevines. 207 x List of figures Figure 9.5 Biosynthesis of flavonoids and resveratrol. 208 Figure 9.6 Seasonal resveratrol production potential of Pinot noir berries growing in Tumbarumba, New South Wales, Australia. 212 Figure 9.7 Stilbene levels in Pinot noir grapes with and without powdery mildew infection. 212 Figure 9.8 Stilbene levels in Semillon grapes at varying stages of botrytis development. 216 Figure 9.9 Hypothetical relationship between a measured parameter in the grape versus that in the wine. 218 Figure 10.1 Flow diagram of winemaking. 229 Figure 10.2 Diagrammatic representation of a simple, two- branched, metabolic pathway, showing feedback inhibition by selected end products. 232 Figure 10.3 Formation of acetaldehyde, acetoin, and higher alcohols during alcoholic fermentation. 233 Figure 10.4 Profile of aroma of a ‘Riesling’ wine (after 20 months) fermented with different yeast strains. 234 Figure 10.5 Yeast numbers during fermentation of white and red wines. 239 Figure 10.6 Relationship of body, bitterness and fruitiness to overall quality of Cabernet Sauvignon wine fermented with various malolactic cultures, as evaluated by two taste panels composed of winemakers and a wine research group. 243 Figure 13.1 Percentage of people with age-related macular degeneration by wine consumption in the First National Health and Nutrition Examination Survey. 287 Figure 13.2 Differences in the incidence of age-related macular degeneration between wine-drinkers and non-wine- drinkers in the Third National Health and Nutrition Examination Survey. 288 Figure 14.1 Survival of E. coli bacteria after exposure to wine, beer, cola, diet cola, water and milk. 302 Figure 14.2 Survival of Salmonella over time when exposed to water, red wine, white wine, Pepto-Bismol®, tequila diluted to 10% ethanol, and ethanol 10%. 304 Figure 14.3 A polyphenol, oenidol. This complex sugar is found in the grape, and is liberated by fermentation. It is antibacterial at low pH, such as is found in wine. 310 List of tables Table 2.1 All known and translated Egyptian medical papyri. 23 Table 2.2 Summary of the medicinal uses of wine by the ancients. 46 Table 2.3 Chronology of wine as a medicine. 47 Table 5.1 Change of biological risk factors associated with an intake of 30 g of alcohol per day. 97 Table 6.1 Relationship of light and heavy drinking to major stroke types. 120 Table 6.2 Relative risk of CHD hospitalization or death according to alcohol. 122 Table 6.3 Relationship of alcohol drinking to cardiovascular conditions. 128 Table 8.1 Recovery of labelled resveratrol 24 hours after gastric administration in rats. 181 Table 8.2 Concentrations of trans-resveratrol in blood serum and urine after oral consumption (25 mg) in three different matrices by healthy males. 183 Table 11.1 Microsatellite alleles in Zweigelt and its parents, St Laurent and Blaufränkisch. 266 Table 11.2 The 16 progeny cultivars of north-eastern France, all being full siblings from the parents Gouais Blanc and Pinot. 268 Table 14.1 Survival of Salmonella, Shigella and E. coli in various beverages, and relation to pH of the beverages. 303 Table 14.2 Relative amounts of intestinal fluid secretion after injection of test substance into isolated intestinal segments. 307 Table 14.3 Antibacterial activity of Médoc wine according to its age. 311 List of contributors Michael Aviram George Gale The Lipid Research Laboratory Department of Philosophy Rambam Medical Center University of Missouri-Kansas City Haifa 31096 Kansas City Israel MO 64110 USA Martin Bobak Department of Epidemiology and Rosemary George Public Health Master of Wine University College London Independent wine writer London UK WC1E 6BT UK David M. Goldberg Department of Laboratory Medicine Glen L. Creasy and Pathobiology Centre for Viticulture and University of Toronto Oenology Toronto Lincoln University Ontario Canterbury Canada New Zealand M5G 1L5 Leroy L. Creasy Ron S. Jackson Department of Horticulture CCOVI Cornell University Brock University Ithaca St Catherines New York 14853 Ontario USA Canada Bianca Fuhrman Arthur L. Klatsky The Lipid Research Laboratory Kaiser Permanente Medical Care Rambam Medical Center Program Haifa 31096 280 West MacArthur Boulevard Israel Oakland List of contributors xiii CA 94611 Roger M. Pinder USA Organon Inc. 375 Mount Pleasant Avenue Michael Marmot West Orange Department of Epidemiology and NJ 07052 Public Health USA University College London London Jane M. Renfrew (Lady Renfrew of WC1E 6BT Kairnsthorn) UK Lucy Cavendish College Cambridge Carole P. Meredith CB3 0BU Department of Viticulture and UK Enology University of California Davis Merton Sandler CA 95616 Institute of Reproductive and USA Developmental Biology Hammersmith Campus Renée S. Moore Imperial College Medical School Department of Pediatrics Du Cane Road West Virginia University School of London Medicine W12 0NN Morgantown UK WV 26506 USA George J. Soleas Quality Assurance Philip A. Norrie Liquor Control Board of Ontario Hawkesbury Campus Toronto University of Western Sydney Ontario Sydney Canada Australia M5E 1A4 Thomas O. Obisesan Martin E. Weisse Section of Geriatrics and Gerontology Department of Pediatrics Department of Medicine West Virginia University School of Howard University Hospital and Medicine College of Medicine Morgantown Washington DC WV 26506 USA USA Preface As we both wind down into the second half (we hope) of our lives, we take some consolation in wine. We like wine: we enjoy its spectrum of tastes, its buoyant effect on our state of mind, its mythology. Not that we think of ourselves, for a moment, as wine snobs – but we do have a minimal expert- ise, yes, and some discrimination, which add to our pleasure.