MOUNTAINS 229 © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © (Harz Journey; 1824). Elsewhere the (Harz Journey; 1824). Elsewhere Zellerfeld Clausthal- Harzreise , on the mountain, while satirical poet Heinrich Heine , on the mountain, while Faust Wind through the Wind through the

Get on a mountain bike and Get on a mountain bike and

Trek to the Brocken or party Trek

Descend rocky shafts into the Descend rocky shafts into the

Explore the Wernigerode the Wernigerode Explore

Sleep in a Renaissance mansion, Sleep in a Renaissance mansion,

mining past in Clausthal-Zellerfeld ( p238 ) ) p238 ( mining past in Clausthal-Zellerfeld 1000 years of mining history in and explore Goslar ( p231 ) pedal the forest trails ( p240 ) behind Werni- p240 trails ( pedal the forest gerode in the Harz National Park on Hexentanzplatz, Thale, for Walpurgis- Thale, on Hexentanzplatz, ) p249 ( nacht festival Altstadt ( p239 ) at night and marvel at the ) at night and marvel at the p239 Altstadt ( floodlit ducal castle spectacular wilds of the Selketal from spectacular wilds of the Selketal from ) p241 train ( or Gernrode on a steam Quedlinburg eat in a Gothic cellar and walk among 1400 eat in a Gothic cellar and walk among 1400 six centuries houses from over half-timbered ) p243 ( in Quedlinburg Wheeling Free Mother Lode Night Walks Mountain Steaming Pagan Rituals Pagan Venues

„ „ „ „ HIGHLIGHTS HIGHLIGHTS „ „

The regular influx of visitors in all seasons is testament to the enduring appeal of the Harz; appeal of the Harz; to the enduring is testament influx of visitors in all seasons regular The of illustri- than its fair share Brockenthe focal point, and has had more (1142m) is The charming medieval towns of Wernigerode and Quedlinburg pull the crowds, while equally Quedlinburg charming medieval towns of Wernigerode and trains pull them along between the mountain villages, spas and sports steam venerable Get out your knee socks or your ski yourself mask and treat the region. resorts that litter life. of the active to a taste The Harz Mountains rise picturesquely from the North German Plain, covering an area area an from the North picturesquely Harz Mountains rise The covering German Plain, and . wide at the junction100km long and 30km of Saxony-Anhalt, the the dramatic peaks and valleys of the Alps, is a far cry from Although the scenery here sports year-round getaway, with plenty of opportunities is a great for hiking, Harz region cycling and skiing Harz National Park. and nordic) in and around the pretty (downhill been questioned. as a prime national holiday destination has never historically, too, its status divided between West and East , was the region From 1952 until reunification, Iron Curtain. political holiday camp straddling the becoming an uneasy effectively trails and set ‘Walpur- seen striding the local Goethe was frequently ous visitors: the great of an early chapter gisnacht’, Harz Mountains in as described here, spent a well-oiled night A7

HARZ MOUNTAINS B3 public transport. to concession-priced ticketsthe user onall (one month,€13),which entitlesMobilCard admission toattractions, andtheHarz- €14.50), which gives free travel andreduced offers includetheHarzTourCard (three days, and activities. Discountdiscounts onsights towns. Yourresort card willgive various ischarged€0.75 to€2.50pernight) inmost and major sites intheentire Harz. (€5.80) provides of agood overview trails planned. depend onthetypeof activityyouhave all year. camping groundsandfacilitiesthatare open brochure which listsmajor (inGerman), tourist office forthefree there, particularlyinWernigerode. the eastern Harz isbestpicked upintowns ( isthe Mountains The maininformationcentre fortheHarz 230 Information % (35km) Kassel To HARZ MOUNTAINS Einbeck The kindof will mapthatyouchoose A local For informationoncamping,askatany 05321-340 40) HARZ MOUNTAINS ••Information Bovenden Göttingen SAXONY B27 LOWER To Hildesheim(25km); B64 Gandersheim ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ Northeim Hanover (55km) Der Harz undKyffhäuser Kurtaxe Bad Bockenem A7 in Goslar,butinformationon B247 (resort rangingfrom tax; Duderstadt Harzer Verkehrsverband Harzer B82 B243 Innerste- Hahnenklee Stausee B241 Grund Bad Herzberg Der Harz Camping Granestausee B6 A38 Wolfshagen Clausthal- Zellerfeld St Andreasberg THURINGIA B498 B242 Römkehalle (30km) L519 To Altenau map Goslar B80 Stausee - Vienenburg Oker B27 B4 A395 Oderstausee

(971m)

Bad Sachsa Bad B243 B6 CYCLING Activities berg, withmany othersmallerruns dotted , Hahnenklee andSt Andreas- The main centres fordownhillskiingare SKIING the year;beprepared.quickly throughout club’s leaflets.Weatherconditionscan change ners alsostock the andguides.Touristoffices tips, itinerariesandtheavailability of part- good sourcesof information,includinghiking Harzklub townsare officesinmountain also the 1:50,000editionsare thebestforhikers. association mapsalsoshow trailnumbers; angular plate. green, blueandyellowonasquare ortri- Park. Trailsymbolsare colour-coded inred, integrated trailnetworkintheHarz National The mainattractioninsummerishikingthe HIKING your bike whenspaceallows. in quieter eastern areas. willtransport Buses bikingintheHarz,or mountain especially achallengeAnyone seeking willenjoycycling Brocken (1142m) Braunlage Elend Sorge L1037 National Park B27 Harz B4 B244 Wernigerode B242 B244 Mittelbau Dora Talmühle Eisfelder Rübeland Nordhausen B81 Harzklub Friedrichshöhe 12miles 20km 0 0 - Stausee Treseburg SAXONY- ANHALT Güntersberge

(www.harzklub.de) To Erfurt Hexentanzplatz (60km) Rosstrappe & Sternhaus Thale Ramberg Strassberg B6 lonelyplanet.com Quedlinburg A38 Mägdesprung B79 Gernrode To Magdeburg Selketalbahn L239 To Leipzig hiking (80km) To B80 (30km) (75km) B81 B185 trails andequipment-hire shops.Forweather can beexcellent,withlotsof well-marked conditions forcross-countryskiing,however, real disappoint enthusiasts; the slopesmight Thequalityof themountains. throughout lonelyplanet.com mine, isa UnescoWorldHeritage site. which, together with itshistoricRammelsberg Altstadt,Goslar hasacharming medieval The hubof tourism inthe Western Harz, % GOSLAR WESTERN HARZ eastern Harz. the Brocken andlinkmajor townsinthe liable. Narrow-gauge steam trainsrunto the variouslocalnetworksare fastandre- you’ll rely asmuch astrains,and onbuses The Harz isonepartof where Germany Around Getting the Harz Hanover between andBerlin). from Hanover) andtheA2(runningnorthof western edge of theHarz onitswaysouth which are via the A7(skirting accessed are theeast–westB6andnorth–southB4, mountains. to take youfurtherintothe bus services lin (€40),andthere are plentyof regional Goslar, andsomesmallertowns,fromBer- ( hub foronwardtravel; contact daily trains,withHanover thenearest major bygerode andQuedlinburg are serviced The area’s maintownsof Goslar,Werni- &Away There Getting a or infirmcantake acure. Mostspatownshave thermal spasandbaths where thewearyand/ sioners’ theHarz paradise, issprinkledwith Often mocked asapen- byyoungGermans SPAS ( also aGerman-language Verkehrsverband reports andsnowconditions,ringthe 0800-150 7090;www.bahn.de) a touristoffice. (spa administration),which often doublesas % % Kurzentrum BerlinLinienBus If you’re driving,thearea’s mainarteries 05321 /pop46,000 05321-200 24) reservations 11861,automatedtimetableinformation reservations (spacentre) or . WESTERNHARZ ••Goslar

(www.berlinlinienbus.de) ( % 05321-340 40) . information service Kurverwaltung Deutsche Bahn Deutsche Bahn . There’s runs to Harzer Harzer

Laundry. Medical services, about 6km north oftown. about6kmnorth services, Medical Mon-Fri) Tourist information. Tourist Mon-Fri) 45; Marktstrasse .de; Bäckergildehaus, 9.30am-2pm SatNov-Mar) 9.15am-5pmMon-Fri, 9.30am-2pm SunApr-Oct, 7; Markt is abeautiful cycleof 16th-century religious patterned townsquare. inside The highlight windows illuminatesstained-glass thestone- shining through whenlight its ownatnight, The impressive late-Gothic almost life-size figures onitsorange façade. thetextilein 1494tohouse guild,andsports the Markt. thehistoric streetswander through around One of thenicestthingstodoinGoslaris AROUND THEMARKT Sights Tourist-Information Spielzentrum Post office Police MuseumSpass Verkehrsverband Harzer Deutsche Bank City-Textilpflege Harzkliniken Asklepios Information the other. town are numbered uponesideanddown tre southof theMarkt. Streets intheold River thecen- The smallGose flowsthrough minute walkfromthetrainandbusstations. leadstotheMarkt,Rosentorstrasse a10- Orientation ahead. reserve busload insummer,whenit’salwaysbestto mine andKaiserpfalz attractvisitors bythe Rammelsberg Prussia in1802.TheAltstadt, to Braunschweig in1552andthenitssoulto Harz asawhole,andrelinquished itsmine 15th centuries,reflecting thefortunesof the ond periodof prosperityinthe14thand Rathaus). (exceptthe admission toGoslar’smajorattractions access. andATM.Bank services 1005 to1219.Itfell intodeclineafter asec- ofKaiserpfalz, theSaxonkingsfrom theseat centredearly importance onsilver andthe Founded by Heinrich Iin922,thetown’s ( % h (Klubgartenstrasse 10) (Klubgartenstrasse 3390; Heinrich-Pieper-Strasse 1) 9.15am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-4pmSat, 9.15am-6pm Mon-Fri, Hotel Kaiserworth Hotel (Breite Strasse;perhr€2.50)Internet (adult/child€9/4.50)Thiscardgives ( % ( % 757 20;Fischemäkerstrasse 13) ( % 242 77;Petersilienstrasse 9) ( % ( 780 60;www.goslar.de; % 440; KöslinerStrasse12) 340 40;www.harzinfo ( p233 ) was erected Rathaus h 8am-5pm comesinto

231 HARZ MOUNTAINS MOUNTAINS HARZ ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ

HARZ MOUNTAINS century and adornedwith interior frescoes of neglect, the palacewasresurrected inthe19th h ( 11th-century Romanesque palace, Goslar’s prideandjoyisthereconstructed KAISERPFALZ are twofineearly16th-centuryhouses. the cornerof Marktstrasse andBergstrasse, at Hoher Weg1,andthe with advancenotice. The can onlybeviewedontouristoffice tours or the Siemensindustrialfamily,butinterior strasse 12) plays at9am,noon,3pmand6pm. depicting fourscenesof mininginthearea. It isthe the Rathaus in theGoslarer ( Museum opposite ). Opposite isacopy–theoriginalonshow eagle itself perial city,dates fromthe13thcentury; asafreeeagle symbolisingGoslar’sstatus im- adult/child €3.50/1.50; paintings inthe 232

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€35/45) concession €3/1.50; ment. Book ahead. on low budgetsthose or wantinganapart- an excellentchoice inthe heart of townfor Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com addition. years ago;thedollcollectionishisdaughter’s owner begancollectinginstrumentsabout 50 fans of musicalinstrumentsand/or dolls.The lonelyplanet.com before out. setting thetouristoffice through toreserve visable The roomsare simplebutclean,andit’sad- of GoslarviatheB241(bus830toSennhütte). tent €2/2.50) Clausthaler Strasse28;s€21,d€42,adult/child €3.50/2, car/ sports areas. two- toeight-bed dorms,andbarbecue Facilities are excellent, withconference rooms, pretty hostel outneartheminingmuseum. Take bus808toTheresienhof toreach this melsberger Strasse25;under/over26yr€16.50/19.50; DJH hostel Sleeping duringthePeasantused Wars. implements, coatsof armour andweapons tion of astorture such delights late-medieval once partof theramparts,which hasacollec- mid-Nov Thomasstrasse 2;adult/child€2/1.20; imZwinger Museum sculptures inthepeacefulgarden. and RebeccaHorn.Lookfortheinteresting winners include Henry Moore, Beuys Joseph of theprestigious Kaiserring artprize–past including worksbythemostrecent winner haschanginghouse, exhibitsof modernart, to 1pmSun) strasse 3;adult/child€3/1.50; isalsohere.eagle fromthefountain from the10thcentury.Theoriginalgolden and there’s alsoacabinetwithcoinsdating from theformerGoslarDom(cathedral), Nov-Mar) the cultural historyof GoslarandtheHarz, visit in acourtyard. colourful collectionof painted pewter figures 11; adult/concession€3.50/1.50; Hotel & Campingplatz Sennhütte &Campingplatz Hotel The ofFor agoodoverview thenaturaland Gästehaus Schmitz Gästehaus For areal ‘scream’, take alookinsidethe The Goslarer Museum Museum Goslarer This slightly eccentric guesthouse is eccentricguesthouse Thisslightly – . One room contains thetreasures. Oneroomcontains Zinnfiguren-Museum Mönchehaus Museum Feb)

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) Food ranges fromthefinger varietythrough The soft colours andsmartroomsinthishis- taurant opendailyfrom6amto11pm.For taurant building hastasteful roomsandagoodres- nificent 500-year-old formermerchant guild €7-14; €2.30; regular here, isniceand theoutdoorseating confectionery, thedeliciousspecialities. you here isthewonderfulsmellof cakes and toys withtheideaof beinganarthotel (the on disco night. buttock to insultheremployer –don’ttryit maid churning butter whileclutching her refers toafamouslocalfrieze showingamilk- from10pm.Thename throbbing nightspot each Saturdaythewholeplacebecomes a where ontheculinarymap. youstand It tastes great, if it’snotalwaysclear even scharf a andthemenupromises Vietnamese-run, fittings atthisrestaurant pointtoChina,it’s 15; in thislarge restaurant andbar. vegetarian foodandheartysteaksto potatoes, midnight Mon-Thu, &Sat,10am-midnight Sun) 8am-3amFri Anders Barock-Café Eating &Drinking itsampleamenities. between business conference guestsbuzzinginswarms hotel are itssprawlingsizeandthenumberof veryonly drawbackswiththisotherwise good Rosentorstrasse 20;s€99-119,d€145-165; there’s stillflairtobefoundintherooms. theartisthinonground,but look closely, insulated againstthebustleoutside. Whenyou cindered toycars) roomswell andhaslight kids willlove thepiecenearfoyerwith pn chsischer-hof-goslar.de; Rosentorstrasse20;s€91,d€124; like which Dukaten isopentill6am. Bar, insomniacs andbarfliesthere’s thedungeon- 3;s€66-96,d€117-177; .de; Markt doors tothehallway. It’s very centralandsomeroomshave double toric hotel make snooze-zone. itacomfortable -hotels.de; HoherWeg1;s€63-71,d€81-112; Red Dragon Red Dinx Der Achtermann Niedersächsischer Hof Kaiserworth Hotel Das Brusttuch Die Butterhanne h h h (hot) Thai-style beef stir-fry (hot)Thai-stylebeef withchilli. 10.30am-10.30pm Mon-Sat) )

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(RBB; , tain andcitybikestain for€13perday. cable-car station, runsvariousskicourses. cable-car station, Oker lake. .de; Kurhausweg 7; .de; Kurhausweg hikes inthewestern Harz. andmakes for summertains agoodbase more tasteful skiresorts intheHarz Moun- of Goslar,thissmallspatown isoneof the Surrounded byforest some12kmsouthwest % HAHNENKLEE h Okersee-Schiffahrt take bus806or810totheOkertalsperre stop. B498 leadstothedam.Iftravelling bybus, Römkerhalle power. Alongthewayyou’llpass60m-high the 1950storegulate water andgenerate levels to a47-million-cu-metre lows thecourse of the Oker River andleads 11km hike (marked withared triangle)fol- one of theprettiest inthewestern Harz. An small industrialtownnowpartof Goslar,is The Oker Valley, which beginsatOker, a OKER VALLEY [email protected]; Breite Strasse30-31) ring Local bustickets cost€1.90.Tobookataxi, Around Getting with trails leadingtotheBocksberg fromthe ( another ski-hire option. skis. The 6forsnowboards andalpine Rathausstrasse to Hindenburgstrasse 4fornordicskis,and main equipment-hire placeintown–head car) andliftscost€17. Bocksberg. Daytickets forthe downhill andcross-countryskiing onthe features. an interior of ByzantineandScandinavian Norwegian-style woodenstave church with Adolf-Kirche traction inHahnenklee istheunusual Apart fromhikingandskiing,themainat- Sights &Activities Rathausstrasse. Apr) 10am-noon SatNov- 9am-4pmMon-Fri, & SunMay-Oct, % Hahnenklee isalsopopular foritshiking, In winter, mostvisitors comeforthe The Apr-Oct) 05325 /pop1300 is in the Kurverwaltung buildingoff isintheKurverwaltung 0175-507 9138; Rathausstrasse 6) 0175-507 9138;Rathausstrasse % tourist office tourist 1313. runsboattripsandtours onthe Berghotel (Gustav-Adolf Church; 1907),a waterfall, created in1863.The h Fahrrad Hans Fahrrad

( 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-noonSat 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, %

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Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com south of Theruralfla- towninBockswiese. tion that kids willenjoymost. tion thatkids Park exhibi- informationcentre, withasmallinteractive concession €2/1; Internet access. conditions. map andbeprepared forchanging weather ber totake theHarzclub 1:50,000walking via Windsattel andGlockenberg. Remem- trails toGoslar(trail2G,bluedot,11km) car parknearthestave church, andlonger lonelyplanet.com 8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm SatNov-Apr) 8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pmSat,10am-1pm SunMay-Oct, 8pm Mon-Fri, 86; Herzog-Wilhelm-Strasse .de; Kurzentrum, Tourist-Information Spielpunkt Haus derNatur Information geous Harz landscapes. offer excellentaccesstosometypicallygor- nearby Harz NationalPark andtrails,which cure-seekers, themainattractionwillbe curative spas.Unlessyou’re oneof themany healthandis amagnetforvisitors seeking This pretty spatownjust9kmfromGoslar % Bus stopshere daily. BerlinLinien- TheBEX Clausthal-Zellerfeld. Hahnenklee fromGoslaronthewayto serves Bus830Goslar andClausthal-Zellerfeld. Hahnenklee isjustwestof theB241,between &Away There Getting over woodland. national dishes can beenjoyedwithaview rama restaurant where andinter- German with aninformalcafélounge andapano- it hasoneof thebesteatingoptions intown, inwheelchairs, and a goodoptionforthose caters forconference guestsandtourists.It’s This large hotel builtinSwiss-chalet style leerhof.de; Parkstrasse 24a;s€57-77,d€114-124; it attractive. areavour andoutdoorsummerseating make n Strasse13;under/over26yr€14.80/17.50; .de; Hahnenkleer and canbookapartmentsforlonger stays. service hasafreeThe touristoffice reservation Sleeping &Eating DJH hostel Hotel Hahnenkleer Hof Hahnenkleer Hotel ) 05322 /pop258,000 The120-bed DJHhostel isabout 2.5km (Herzog-Wilhelm-Strasse 42;perhr€2.50) (Herzog-Wilhelm-Strasse

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( % 7005; Hindenburgplatz 1; 7005; Hindenburgplatz 3745; Marktstrasse 13;s/d 3745; Marktstrasse 1616; An der Marktkirche 1616; AnderMarktkirche lonelyplanet.com p Marktkirche Marktkirche Though ) , Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com service. informationandroom-booking tourist Nov-Apr) Private Haus, Breite Strasse72; service. information androom-booking 10am-4pmSat,10am-3pmSunNov-Apr)Tourist Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm 10am-4pmSat,10am-3pmSunMay-Oct, Fri, Nicolaiplatz1; gerode-tourismus.de; services. Strasse 15)Medical the 12thcentury. hoversAltstadt aromanticducal castlefrom above andhigh houses, thehalf-timbered streets of are theAltstadt flanked bypretty lonelyplanet.com touches. Theneo-Gothic of the authoritiesand addedafew mocking wooden figures tohave wassaid fallenfoul thetownhall’s33 whocarved The artisan mostly late-Gothic from the16thcentury. todayisaround 1277,butwhatyousee Rathaus toweredThe colourfulandspectacular ALTSTADT Sights Krummelschen Haus undInformationam Zimmervermittlung Wernigerode Tourismus Volksbank Internet access. 5; perhr€3; Jackpot Spielcenter Post office Police Wernigerode Harz-Klinikum Information Markt. TheducalcastleissoutheastofStrasse. side of townattheendof Rudolf-Breitscheid- areThe busandtrainstations onthenorthern Orientation here. alsostarts tain, moun- highest (1142m), northernGermany’s century; thelinetosummitof theBrocken along thebreadth of theHarz foralmosta boxed(see text, p241 ), which haschugged steam-powered narrow-gauge Harzquerbahn its populationtothebrinkandback. forever, andlater theThirty Years’ Wartook centuries, changing thefaceof Wernigerode bles. Fires followedinthe15thand16th it washampered bycenturiesof royalsquab- of thistown.Duringtheearly MiddleAges Today itisthenorthernterminus of the intothefeatures deeply History iscarved ( % onMarkt began life asatheatre (Breite Strasse 4) Banking services andATM. services (Breite Strasse4)Banking (cnr Marktstrasse &Kanzleistrasse) (cnrMarktstrasse 6530; Nicolaiplatz4) h 8am-10pm Mon-Sat,10am-10pmSun) EASTERN HARZ ••Wernigerode EASTERN (Johann-Sebastian-Bach-Strasse (Johann-Sebastian-Bach-Strasse h ( % 10am-6pm May-Oct, to4pm 10am-6pm May-Oct, ( % 606 000;Krummelsches ( 633 035;www.werni fountain % h 610; Ilsenburger 9am-7pm Mon- (1848)was free andjustasspectacular. terrace (bestappreciated late intheday)are but theviewsfromcastleorrestaurant same vintage! same byvolunteers ofonwards staffed almostthe lection of fire-fighting machines from1890 Steingrube 3; timbered houses. exhibits onlocalgeology, historyandhalf- carts make the trek from Markt. from Marktstrasse. Insummer, horse-drawn bahn wagonride(adult/child €4.50/2return) You canclimbthecastle andpulpitmadeofaltar French marble. Festsaal with originalfurnishings andtheopulent traits of Kaisers, beautifulpanelledrooms insideincludespor-century. Themuseum Otto of Stolberg-Wernigerode inthe19th façadecamecourtesyIts fairy-tale of Count reflect late-Gothic tastes. andRenaissance & SunNov-Apr) h .schloss-wernigerode.de; adult/concession/child €4.50/4/2.50; the Harz, KaisersGerman onhuntingexpeditionsin Originally builtinthe12thcenturytoprotect SCHLOSS Feuerwehrmuseum baroquestyle. German historic smithybuiltin1678thesouth 95; adult/concession€2.50/1.50; 772; www.schmiedemuseum-wernigerode.de;Breite Strasse armadillo. asanakedably enough, woman riding an symbolically; Americaisportrayed,reason- Krummelsches Haus façadeof the tronomical reasons. Thecarved while stopover forbotharchitectural andgas- Wien Café Sat) 454; Klint10;adult/concession€2/1.30; oriel.The its Renaissance you’ll find which surroundsthe in townisthecosyOberpfarrkirchhof, and coatsof armsare onit. immortalised dedicated to charitable names nobles,whose You canwalk(1.5km) ortake aBimmel- Just offBreite you’llfindthe Strasse Nearby isthe Crossing Markt toBreite thepretty Strasse, The stunning One of houses theprettiest half-timbered , ashort walkaway,hassomeinteresting 10am-6pm May-Oct, 10am-4pm Tue-Fri, to6pmSat 10am-4pmTue-Fri, 10am-6pm May-Oct, (Banquet Hall). (Banquet building(1583)atNo4isaworth- h Schloss Wernigerode Gadenstedtsches Haus Gadenstedtsches wasenlarged over theyears to 2.30-4.30pm Thu,2.30-5pmSat)

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, HARZ MOUNTAINS MOUNTAINS HARZ HARZ MOUNTAINS nishings in a half-timbered house. nishings inahalf-timbered rooms,atiledfloorandelegantfur-bright is avery decentchoice andgreat value,with the castle. andsomeroomshaveis pleasant viewsof of pineforest inthe40rooms,butthisplace rinthine itmaybe,andthere’s anawfullot .hotelzurpost.de; Marktstrasse 17;s/d€49/86; .hotelzurpost.de; Marktstrasse 65, d€90-105; .de; Breite Strasse92;s€50,d€90-112; 2.5km westof towninHasserode, thereno- rooms in a former postal administrativerooms inaformerpostal This large andmodern hotel hasbright 240 fire downstairs intheKaminbar, andevening hotel make itvery attractive. There’s alog ours designof andthoughtful thisluxury 196, ste€250-270; 1;s€94-114, d€136- [email protected]; AmMarkt magnet here. and aworryingrubbercrocodilethat are the with Roman-stylepillarspool (plussauna) it’s thedeliciouslytranquilindoorswimming restaurantpotato downstairs. building. There’s area agoodsauna anda 14;s/d€51/75; Marktstrasse .appart-hotel.de; wards . dorms withbathrooms.Take bus1or4to- vated DJH hostel hasthree- andfour-bed s €28.50; -anhalt.de; AmEichberg5;dmunder/over26yr€15.50/18.20, DJH hostel Sleeping the castlefromearlyJulytomid-August. annual festival of musicandtheatre isheldin October, includingaBrocken marathon.An Saturdayin heldonthesecond running event -gebirgslauf.de) The Festivals &Events per day. 3) ( rides intotheHarz NationalPark. pointforhikesalso agoodstarting andbike Forstwege withlovelycastle iscrisscrossed trailsand The beautifuldeciduous Activities % rents andcitybikes mountain for€7.50 Altwernigeroder Apparthotel Parkhotel Fischer Parkhotel Hotel GothischesHaus Hotel Hotel amAnger Hotel zurPost undRestaurant Hotel 626 868; www.badbikes-online.de; GrosseBergstrasse 626 868;www.badbikes-online.de; Harz-Gebirgslauf EASTERN HARZ ••Wernigerode EASTERN n

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If drivingfromWernigerode, take the WVB bus265leaves Wernigerode for Hermannshöhle ( 039455 /pop1000 % Baumannshöhle 03943-5580; www.hsb-wr.de; Friedrichstrasse Brockenbahn begins thesteep climbtoSchierke Harzquerbahn wasformed350,000years wasformedabout500,000 before itclimbsthe runs60kmon Selketalbahn

241

HARZ MOUNTAINS MOUNTAINS HARZ HARZ MOUNTAINS national parkinformation. strasse 10; 242 to theBrocken andcostadult/child €20/10 Schnarcherklippen (1½hours). pen (30minutes fromthe touristoffice)and the rugged rockformationsof Feuersteinklip- MarkedNationalparkhaus. trailsalsoleadto free is the7kmhike viaEckerloch. Pickupthe vate cars andmotorcycles.More interesting men Brockenstrasse topri- (12km), closed area.abseiling also offered, andthere’s aclimbingwalland the 70kmof groomedtrails.Courses are aswellski equipmentforsnow shoes, hires bikes outclimbing gear, mountain and Mühlenweg1; .dav-basislager-brocken.de; cliffs. offering of alllevels onnearby difficulty Schierke isapopularplaceforclimbing, Activities Schierke Nationalparkhaus Kurverwaltung DAV BasislagerBrocken Information ubiquitous ‘Schierker Feuerstein’ the Harz NationalPark and thehomeof the pointforexploringis alsoapopularstarting down inthevalleyof theKalte BodeRiver. It and equipmenthire. AlpineClub;offersLocal HQoftheGerman outdoorsports Mühlenweg1; -basislager-brocken.de; Sat, 10am-noon Sun) Tourist information. Sat, 10am-noonSun)Tourist h Horse-drawn wagonstravel from Schierke You canhike totheBrocken viathebitu- offer adistantviewofthejumptoday. room attheWaldschlösschenhotel ( right ) days. Oneortwotablesinthebreakfast ers usedtolandrightontheborderinthose jumpinBraunlage. Jump- space fromtheski jumperszippingthroughcapitalistairski wasalsoavantagepointtowatchSchierke leave. Howstrangeitwas,therefore, that controlpointstoenterthrough strict and restricted zone. Itsinhabitantshadtopass sealed offfromtheoutsideworldbya5km during the wasonceCold War,Schierke closetotheIronCurtain Uncomfortably BREAKFAST WITHAVIEW 9am-noon & 1-4pm Mon-Fri, 10am-noon&2-4pm9am-noon &1-4pmMon-Fri, Wanderführer 2 Wanderführer EASTERN HARZ •• Mittelbau Dora HARZ ••Mittelbau EASTERN DAV BasislagerBrocken h 8.30am-4.30pm) Hiking brochures and 8.30am-4.30pm) Hiking ( % 8680; Brockenstrasse 10; 8680; Brockenstrasse hikingguidefromthe ( % ( 515 46;www.dav %

814 44;Brocken- h ( % 9am-1pm) h 515 46;www digestif 9am-1pm) . single/return. Drivingfromthewest,take the Wernigerodebetween andSchierke cost €5/9 with the876.Narrow-gauge railwayservices Braunlage isalsoquite frequent andconnects Wernigerodevia Elend.Bus257between and WVB bus876runssixtimesdailytoBraunlage &Around There Getting theboxedrooms. See text, left . panorama-style restaurant andultra-modern a and facilities,thisexcellenthotel tacked onto pn Hermann-Löns-Weg1;s€59,d€85-115;-schierke.de; restaurant. rooms (somehave averanda), andadecent rooms,withorwithoutbath- comfortable foyerandoffersremarkable cleanand carved 15;s€33-50,d€50-70) Kirchberg tobookahead. may need particularly alongBorckenstrasse, butyou There isplentyof accommodationintown, Sleeping &Eating on walkingtrackstotheBrocken. about 25,000visitors, mostof off whom set boxed(see text, p249 ), Schierke attracts inwinter. services horse-drawn sleigh return. witz only tobeworked todeath here. Ausch- died atDora, manyhaving survived two years of thewar,atleast20,000prisoners Duringthelastin farnortheastern Germany. destroyed themissile plantsinPeenemünde concentration campafter Britishbombers created asasatellite of theBuchenwald the ground. conduct warfromproductionplants below WWII, when Hitler’s grandplanbecameto and othercitiesduringthefinal stages of that raineddestructiononLondon,Antwerp nels, theyproducedtheV1andV2rockets Froma20kmlabyrinth ofNordhausen. tun- tunnelsinthechalkdigging hillsnorthof oners of war)toiledunderhorrific conditions ers (mostlyRussian,French andPolish pris- From late of in1943,thousands slave labour- DORA MITTELBAU From Wernigerode, take Friedrichstrasse. B27 fromBraunlage andturnoff atElend. Jugendstil The camp,calledMittelbau Dora,was König Hotel Waldschlösschen ofOn thenight 30April,Walpurgisnacht ) The best in town for service, comfort Thebestintownforservice, Dirk Klaus Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com (ArtNouveau) villahasanItalian

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( % ( 383; www.harz-hotel-koenig.de; % 8670; www.waldschloesschen 512 12) Thishotel hasa lonelyplanet.com alsooperates accessible byguidedtour. Withinthedank are thediameter of anaircrafthangar,are missile equipmentbefore turningthearea andremoved1945, cared forsurvivors all US spaceprogramme. of thetechnology waslater employedinthe over totheRussianstwomonths later. Much lonelyplanet.com the crowds: about50,000on asummer’sday. Harz, butthe 1142m Brocken iswhatdraws There are prettier landscapesandhikes inthe BROCKEN &TORFHAUS hausen. to Göttingen (€18,1½hours) from Nord- hill andyouare atthecamp. Follow thisfor1kmtowardstheunassuming andbecomes Kohnsteinweg.which curves tracks andwalksouthalongGoetheweg, main station. (11minutes), nexttotheNordhausen-Nord byalmosthourlytrainsfrom which isserved stop toDoraisNordhausen–Krimderode, Wernigerode (€9,2¾hours). Thenearest The &Away There Getting to September). 1pm and3pmonweekends (also 4pmApril 2pm fromTuesdaytoFriday,andat11am, that have lainuntouched forover 50years. rockets partiallyassembled walls youcansee to4pmOct-Mar). Sun Apr-Sep, 495 820;www.dora.de; admissionfree; grounds, crematorium and ing trains. a dulltownof interest onlyasregards chang- Mittelbau Dorais5kmnorthof Nordhausen, &Information Orientation Germany. most unforgettable experiencesyouhave in the memorial,andavisitmaybeamong café andvariousnewexhibits. was openedwithamultilanguage library,a ing. Inlate 2006anewexhibitionbuilding intothehorrorofinsight Hitler’s undertak- improvedbeen over theyears togive adeeper GDR period,thememorialhasgradually The USarmyreached thegates inApril From theKrimderodestop,cross After years of moulderingawayinthe Trains runtoHalle (€15,1¾hours) and Free 90-minute tours operate at11amand Visitors have independentaccesstothe The horribletruthof theplacepermeates Harzquerbahn EASTERN HARZ •• Brocken &Torfhaus HARZ ••Brocken EASTERN links Nordhausen with linksNordhausen The tunnels,which museum h 10am-6pm Tue- ( %

03631- with plentyof equipmentavailable for for progressed. mantic cobblestone streets has gradually save thecrumblingtreasures liningitsro- World Heritage site; sincethen, work to the Harz. In1994the citybecameaUnesco ofago, Quedlinburg anytripto isahighlight timbered datingfromsixcenturies houses andover Altstadt With itsintact 1400half- % QUEDLINBURG Harzburg–BraunlageBad route. onthe well-served Bus 820stopsatTorfhaus &Away There Getting has informationonthepark. 21; .info; Torfhaus Nationalparkhaus good mapandtake allprecautions. The is theKaiserweg. Make sure youpack a (on twopistes); onerecommended route hire. Downhillskiingislimited to1200m was onceawallaroundthesummit. alpine garden tive displaysandaviewingplatform,plusan €3-3.50, child€2; adult€4,concessionwww.nationalpark-brockenhaus.de; and Heine. pea soupand summit, where youcanenjoytheview,eat moorlandtoreachsoggy theopen,windy be climbed.Hike alongthetrainlineabove intheworldthatcouldn’t the onlymountain limitsandwasvirtually the summitwasoff by theSoviets For28years base. asamilitary in the Cold War,andtheBrocken wasused 1945 to1989theHarz region wasafrontline as youwalkalongtheformerborder. From andmorethe trailbecomessteep interesting your nextstopwillbeadeadforest, though Harzburg.11km trailfromBad Unfortunately, theKaiserweg, asweaty mines, thencrosses toregulateonce used water forthe levels bog,followsanhistoricaqueductthrough than otherapproaches, itinitiallytakes you the western Harz Easier atTorfhaus. starts The 8km trailtotheBrockenGoetheweg from Goetheweg fromTorfhaus –instockings. also scaledthemountain When hewasn’texploringmines, Goethe point isagoodstarting itself Torfhaus On topisthe 03946 /pop23,600 cross-country skiing cross-country skiing anda2.5kmtrailfollowingwhat h h Bockwurst,

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( % 039455-500 05; 243

HARZ MOUNTAINS MOUNTAINS HARZ HARZ MOUNTAINS To reach theMarkt, followtheroadaround alongBahnhofstrasse.(central trainstation) is a10-minute walkfromtheHauptbahnhof centreThe circularmedieval of the oldtown Orientation is niceforavisit. summer andonweekends, anytimeof year enjoyed thedirect protection of theKaiser. widows anddaughters of thenobilitythat the associated withQuedlinburg isclosely itself the 10th-centurychild-king Otto III,and ano andAdelheid,successive guardiansof ruled fromhere bytwowomen,Theoph- 244 Münzenberg (200m) (200m); Café To Münzenberg 4 1 3 2 QUEDLINBURG In the10thcenturyReich wasbriefly Although the Altstadt canget theAltstadt crowdedinAlthough Frauenstift, SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION pras...... B3 Sparkasse...... Marktkirche StBenedikti...... Lyonel-Feininger-Galerie...... Klopstockhaus...... Hoher Turm...... Finkenherd...... Fachwerkmuseum Ständebau...... Bimmelbahn...... Alter Klopstock...... Quedlinburg-Tourismus...... Play-Fun...... Harzerschmalspurbahnen...... (500m) Intershop & NightLiveim To Wipertikirche EASTERN HARZ ••Quedlinburg EASTERN

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( % 2Rad Pavillon 2Rad Fri &Sat) Fri 2236; www.qbus-.de;Haupt- EASTERN HARZ ••Gernrode EASTERN . There’s a Thisclubinthewasteland runs to Gernrode (€3,15 runstoGernrode

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Romanesque architecture fromtheOttonian Suderode Strasse; and tourist centre. Thefirst was steelworks Harz Mountains, Thale isasmallindustrial Situated belowthenorthern slopesof the % THALE Hauptbahnhof. boxed(see text, p241 ); buytickets atthe fromQuedlinburg Gernrode through passes and Thale. Therecently extended Quedlinburgincluding theNacht3 between alsostophere, buses the touristoffice. Night burg stopattheHauptbahnhof andinfrontof forThaleandQuedlin- Regular QBusservices &Away There Getting to Marktstrasse, marked hikingtrailslead east train track. alongpathsyond fromGernrode besidethe You canalsowalktoMägdesprungandbe- swimming holewithacampsite andhostel. theforestthrough to whereSternhaus Ramberg, ashort trailleads cially picturesque; youcanbreak thetripat toMägdesprungisespe- from Gernrode tion onsummerorgan concertsandtours. in Jerusalem. Thetouristofficehasinforma- Grab 1150. Inthesouthaisleyouwillfind motifs culminate intheAscension, dates from Taufstein common Romanesquefeature. Theoctagonal of alternating columnsandpillars, later a 959. Especiallynoteworthy istheearlyuse ontheformofis based across,wasbegun in period. Constructionof thebasilica,which daily year-round) h Cyriakus St Stiftskirche Sights &Activities another 10minutes fromthetowncentre. minute walkfromtheHauptbahnhof and inthe world. table the largest thermometer and will alsoenjoythispretty town,which boasts hikers, picnickers andsteam-train enthusiasts 13km). Valley,in theSelke andwesttoThale(about From thecornerof and Bahnhofstrasse The The Burg Falkenstein Burg 9am-5pm Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun Apr-Oct, tours3pm 9am-5pm Mon-Sat,noon-5pmSunApr-Oct, 03947 /pop15,000 , an11th-centuryreplica of Christ’stomb narrow-gauge railway narrow-gauge tourist office tourist (Christening stone), whose religious (Christening stone),whose isoneof thepurest examplesof h 9am-3.30pm Mon-Fri) (11km),thehistoriccastle

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247 HARZ MOUNTAINS MOUNTAINS HARZ HARZ MOUNTAINS 10am-4.30pm Oct-Apr) 10am-4.30pm Oct-Apr) manic tribes for occult rituals and sacrifices manic tribesforoccultritualsandsacrifices fortresses and were by Ger-had Celtic used outcrops flankingtheBodeValley thatonce tanzplatz; adult/child €1.50/1; direct youfromtheHauptbahnhof. early orlate inthedayto avoid crowds.Signs 10am-4.30pm Oct-Apr) May-Sep, you cantake a the magnificentviewsalone. Rosstrappe. Itisworthclimbinguphere for left thefamoushoof imprintinthestoneon The impactof Brunhilde’slandingsupposedly name, turningintoahell-houndontheway. plunged intothevalleythatnowbears his pursuing fiancécouldn’tmake thejumpand Bodo byleapingthegorge onhorseback; her caped aloveless marriage toBohemian prince also inspired themythof Brunhilde,who es- boxed(see text, opposite ). Thelandscape Hexentanzplatz Sights haus departmentstore atNo16. isintheKauf- thepostoffice Marx-Strasse; a witch (€4). Thale Fabulous hof. PickuptheEnglish-language brochure is inFriedensparkopposite theHauptbahn- hofstrasse 3; which runsnortheasttotheBodeRiver. andKarl-Marx-Strasse, the Hauptbahnhof), (leftfrom Bahnhofstrasse runs diagonallyoff Thale’s twomainstreets are which Poststrasse, &Information Orientation opposite ). text, April tocelebrate Walpurgisnacht boxed (see grand styleandnumbers each yearon30 nets forpostmodernpagans,whogatherin Hexentanzplatz andRosstrappe,bothmag- attheheadof thevalleyareOn thetwocliffs lush river valleythatmakes foridealhiking. landscapeof anda rugged cliffs sensational identity asaworkers’ town. cessor companiestoday,Thaleretains its only500peopleworkinthesuc- Although Hüttenwerk Thale. theEisen-und steelworks, workedera 8000employees atthetown’s hereestablished in1686.DuringtheGDR 248 The The mainfocusforvisitors, isthe however, The wooden museum The wooden museum There’s bankatthetopof aSparkasse Karl- A cable car EASTERN HARZ ••Thale EASTERN tourist office tourist h

7am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pmSat&Sun) 7am-5pm Mon-Fri, (return €4.50; and chairlift orbookathemedtourwith runs toHexentanzplatz, or

Rosstrappe ( % (return €3.50; h 2597; www.thale.de; Bahn- h toRosstrappe. Go Walpurgishalle 10am-6pm May-Oct) 9.30am-6pm May-Sep, 9.30am-6pm May-Sep, are tworugged h 9.30am-6pm (Hexen-

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This DJHhostel iscentraltothetrainand .harzer-bergtheater.de; Hexentanzplatz) programme of musicandplays,plusaper- and otherfurryfriends.TheHexentanzplatz Bodetal-Waldkater; under/over26yr€14.50/17.20; Bodetal-Waldkater; The open-air Festivals &Events trip. combine withthevalleywalktomake around fromHexentanzplatzdot) goes toTreseburg; via Hexentanzplatz. Another10kmtrail(red early November, itallyear andQBus18does thetripfromAprilto WVB bus264does sceneryattheend. enjoy themostspectacular Treseburg, youcanwalkdownstream and 10km). Ifyoutake thebusfromThaleto ThaleandTreseburgbetween (bluetriangle, mended istheBodeValley ‘Hexenstieg’ walk recom- isuptoit.Highly if yourGerman Führer durch dasBodetal The Activities souvenir shops. isnowbasicallyacoach parkfullofitself Feb-Apr, 10am-4pmNov-Jan) h .tierpark-thale.de; adult/concession/child€4/3.50/2; als. Nearbyisa10-hectare ritu- sacrificial inGermanic stone onceused only),includingthe (German exhibitions andpaintingsonmatters heathen the forest, thisrecently renovated hotel is an pn -sonneneck-thale.de; Heimburgstrasse1a;s€35-49,d€55-80; restaurant. cuisine inthehoteland otherelementary can alsoget afillinggoulashwithdumplings timbered ling andacatthemedominate thiscute half- s/d€35/54; .de; Bodetal-Waldkater; where thetrailbeginsforBodeValley. andnestledinlush surroundings bus stations finding holidayflats. canhelp,especiallyin but thetouristoffice number of cheap private roomsislimited, Book extremely earlyforWalpurgisnacht. The Sleeping &Eating at thevenue andthetouristoffice. formance onWalpurgisnacht. Tickets are sold Hotel HausSonneneck Hotel Kleiner Waldkater DJH hostel 10am-7pm Jun-Aug, 9am-6pm May, Sep & Oct, 9am-5pm &Oct, Sep 10am-7pm Jun-Aug, 9am-6pmMay, hiking ) Situated between Friedenspark and Situated between pension brochures Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com

( % Harzer Bergtheater Harzer 2881; [email protected]; alongsidethehostel. You

( % Wanderführer Wanderführer withlynxes, wildcats 2826; www.kleiner-waldkater

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locals. Italsohasadelivery service. Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com the above - ‘Do the right thingwithourcontent.’ the above -‘Dotheright theterms and conditionsonoursiteforalonger wayofsaying youknow,orresell it.See everyone site,mass emailitto only. Inotherwords, pleasedon’tuploadthischapterto apeer-to-peer Inreturn, wethinkit’sfair toaskyouuseitforpersonal,non-commercial purposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. iteasier foryoutouse,accessthischapterisnotdigitally Tomake have restaurants. The restaurant andSputnikweg, this Italian Bahnhofstrasse minute hike along northeastfromthestation 8, pasta€7.50-10,mains€11-15) for €10perday. and fitnessextras.Italsorents bikes mountain playground, arestaurant andvarioushealth very smartroomswithbalconies,achildren’s new hotel and holidayapartmentcomplexhas pns 9-11;s€65-90,d€80-110; -bodetal.de; Hubertusstrasse the walksandlifts. to excellent choice –central,quietandclose Both Hexentanzplatz andRosstrappe La Romantica BodetalThale Ferienpark very strangecharacters! Walpurgisnacht treks Wherever totheBrocken. youare, toseethedawninwithsome expect pointforto knowaboutsacrifices,ritualsandlocalmyths. also popular,isastarting Schierke, 35,000 ormore varietyevents andtheWalpurgishalle arrive forcolourful tells youallneed stray witchesfromdroppingby. to protect theirlivestock; whipswere ringing otherwaystoprevent churchbellsorcracking copulation withthedevil.Frightened peasantsusedtohangcrossesandherbsonstabledoors count theyear’sevildeedsandtopoffstorieswithabacchanalianfrenzy, saidtorepresent throughout theHarzbefore onbroomsticksorgoats. flyingofftotheBrocken There theyre- may alsorefer totheweddingofgodsWodanandFreya. thename‘Walpurgisnacht’fact itselfprobablyderives fromStWalpurga, butthefestival tradition and pitchforks,scared offCharlemagne’sguards,whomistookthemforwitchesanddevils. In their rituals. They are saidtohave theirfacesonenightand,armedwithbroomsticks darkened invention ofthetribeswho,pursuedbyChristianmissionaries,heldsecret gatheringstocarryout pagan andChristianelements. campaigns tosubjugate andChristianisethelocalpopulation.Harzmythologyblendsthese upon roleinthe8th-centurySaxonWars,whenCharlemagneembarked played animportant tribes haddriven outtheCelts andappropriated thesites for meetingsandritualsacrifices. These The BodetaloncecontainedCeltic tribes;by500BCGermanic builttofend fortresses offnorthern WITCHES &WARLOCKS One ofthebestplacestocelebrate Walpurgisnacht isThale, where not-so-pagan hordesof According tolocalmythology,witchesandwarlocksgatheronWalpurgisnacht atlocations One popular–butmisleadingexplanationforthe Walpurgisnacht festival isthatitwasan ) Directly across Friedenspark,this

gets goodrecommendations from

EASTERN HARZ ••Thale EASTERN ( % 630 99; Musestieg 28;pizza€5- 630 99;Musestieg Berghotel Hexentanzplatz Berghotel ( %

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tion forasit-downmeal. or via Hexentanzplatz. call Forataxi, to Harzgerode andQuedlinburg respectively, N3andN4go buses Rosstrappe. Thenight toTreseburg264 goes and Blankenburg via to get toTreseburg, take QBus18.BusWVB ForWernigerode,station. take busWVB253; to Quedlinburg andWernigerode. leadsto themainjunctionforroadsStrasse Magdeburg (€12.40,1½hours). Karl-Marx- utes), Wernigerode (€9.10,1¼hours) and 45 minutes), Quedlinburg (€1.80,11min- Frequent trainstravel toHalberstadt (€4.60, &Around There Getting ( % The bus station is located alongside the train islocated alongsidethetrain The busstation % 4730; Hexentanzplatz; mains€9-14) 2244. © LonelyPlanetPublications isthebestop- %

2505 2505

249 HARZ MOUNTAINS MOUNTAINS HARZ