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Growing Citrus in the North Bay

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Growing Citrus in the North Bay Growing Citrus in the North Bay Steven Swain UC Cooperative Extension, Marin & Sonoma Counties (415) 473-4204 [email protected] http://cemarin.ucanr.edu The title is almost an oxymoron Where do citrus trees come from? . Southeast Asia . Burma (Myanmar) . Yunnan province of China . Northeast India In California, we’re used to being able to grow anything . But California’s famous for lots of climates in a small area Where is citrus Sacramento Valley: 0.4% commercially grown? Not here … San Joaquin Valley: 73% . There’s probably more than one reason for that Desert Valleys: 5% . Commercial citrus in Sacramento Valley is restricted to hot spots . Commercial grapefruit restricted to inland locations with water – Why? Coast: 12% . Citrus is a subtropical plant – It needs heat to produce sugar South Coast And Interior: 10% Citrus development periods Development Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sept Oct Nov Dec prebloom shoot growth and leaf flush bloom petal fall, leaf drop (?) root growth fruit drop fruit development slow increase in size rapid increase in size maturation, slow increase … for navel oranges grown in San Joaquin County The average time of year for each development stage is shown in dark gray, less vigorous development is shown in light gray Note early drop (light gray), June drop (dark gray), and preharvest drop (light gray) Prebloom: All citrus except lemon essentially stop growing in California’s climate (variable due to weather) Note that maturation can extend into early May in some citrus varietals in some regions Table adapted from IPM for Citrus, 3rd ed., in turn from Lovatt, in prep From: Bower JP (2004) The pre- and postharvest application potential for CropSet and ISR2000 on citrus. Conference paper. Citrus flower Pistil Stigma Style Ovary Ovule Citrus flower Stamen Anther Filament Citrus flower Nectary Alternate bearing Setting of heavy fruit load one year, followed by a light load the next Valencia & Mandarin oranges Source: Shalom et al, 2012 Don’t hold fruit, harvest Heavy fruit loads (ON years) as soon as ripe suppresses generative primordia, and enhances If necessary, thin fruit in vegetative primordia. early summer in heavy Light fruit loads (OFF years) do years the opposite Fruit Thinning Total yield vs. fruit size Yield Weight Fruit Size Increasing No. Fruit/Tree Citrus Types • Standard – to 20 or more feet! • Dwarf – to 6-10 ft. • Meyer lemon (Citrus meyeri) is not a true lemon (Citrus limon) . Was discovered in China in 1908 by Frank Meyer Mandarins (tangerines) do well here . Satsuma (early enough to miss frost) . Pixie (small, hangs well) Tangelos and Grapefruit don’t do well Pollination of Citrus Trees • Pollenizer: A tree of one variety used to provide pollen to a nearby tree of a different variety to produce fruit • Pollinator: An insect (usually a bee) that carries pollen from one tree or flower to another Pollination of Citrus Trees • Most varieties are self- fruitful (no pollinizer required) • Navel oranges and some mandarin varietals do not produce viable pollen • Some mandarins fruit better when a pollinizer is available • Seed production in mandarins is variable • See IPM for Citrus, p.8, or Kahn 2007 • Navel oranges don’t require fertilization Photo: University of Florida Cooperative Extension Citrus needs heat Cool weather can inhibit nutrient uptake . Winter and spring . Shows as nutrient deficiency . Soil tests okay . Disappears with the onset of warmer weather . In Marin, the chlorosis may be less marked along the veins Sunlight is related to heat … Sunlight Requirement Minimum of 6 hours per day in February Citrus Frost Hazard Frost damage Susceptibility varies with species Always a risk in inland areas Foliar symptoms: . Scorching of upper, lower, or exposed leaves . Newer growth may be more susceptible Worse if tree is drought stressed . Water in November? Frost damage to fruit Typically appears after leaf symptoms . No leaf symptoms? Not likely frost damage Can mask internal damage Note: this slide shows two fruits with frost damage symptoms The next slide shows one healthy fruit, and one with frost damage Frost damage to fruit Severe enough frost damage resuts in dry fruit . (Bottom) . Remember what we said about water? Note: can also result from under-watering . Drought makes frost damage much more severe . Citrus trees will sacrifice the kids if they have to – Look for the “I’m spending my children’s inheritance” bumperstickers on the RV “Holiday” Tree Lights for Warmth Cold Hardiness of Citrus Varieties (Temp. below which tree damage occurs) Mexican Lime 29 Bearss Lime 28 Regular Lemon 26 Grapefruit 25 Meyer Lemon 22 Sweet Orange 21 Mandarin / Tangerine 20 Kumquat 19 Image: https://plantscientist.wordpress.com Citrus needs cold? Well, sort of … . More like “chill” Rind color depends primarily on: . Nutritional status of the tree . Sufficiently low night- time temperatures (below 55 deg F) – Oranges grown in the tropics often have green skin What else does it need? Water: citrus likely needs some summer irrigation . Climate dependent . Overwatering leads to root rots Soil: well-drained soil is imperative pH: 6.5-7 (slightly acidic) . If soil pH is off, plants will exhibit nutrient deficiencies Soil Considerations for Citrus • Roots are generally shallow (1-2 ft.) • Good drainage essential • Avoid heavy clay soils • Raised beds or containers? • Plant high • Tolerant of sandy soils with less nutrient capacity • Better with some fertilization • Loams best Serpentine Soils Green rocks . Break down into red clays . Not all red clays are serpentine California’s state soil . Common in Marin . Esp. around Belvedere Calcium vs Magnesium . Most soils 4 or 5:1 . Serpentine: 2 or 3:1 . Result: Calcium deficiency Planting Trees • Check roots, cut off dead or damaged • Hole size: Wide & shallow. Deep only if compacted • Plant on mound to keep crown dry • Plant high! – Reduces chances of crown & root rot . Upper roots just below ground, graft union well above soil . Allow for soil settling Soil Amendments • None in planting hole • Compost can be incorporated into soil above grade if you wish • Un-composted amendments should be incorporated months before planting • Avoid pockets of undecomposed organic matter in heavy soils • Add mulch or compost to surface A deep hole is a grave Dig a wide hole Planting a Bare Root Tree Or one you’ve rinsed of soil Backfill and Dig wide, lightly tamp shallow hole soil Emitters: ~1 ft. away Next year: move to dripline Planting a Containerized Tree Pull out circling roots Water in Don’t cover soil in pot Post-Planting Irrigation • Water in after planting • In heavy soil, do not water in if soil wet . Anaerobic conditions dead roots • Drip emitters ~1 ft. away from trunk, or doughnut basin around tree Irrigation • Best = drip and microsprinkler irrigation • Also, furrow, doughnut ring, sprinkler • Worst = in a lawn • Water should reach >1 foot deep • A 2-year-old tree can use about 2 gal./day • A mature tree can use >50 gal./day Drip Irrigation Mulch pulled back Microsprinkler Irrigating mature citrus Water required to make sugar . Up to 50gal on a hot July day . Mostly used for cooling / transport Soil should remain moist 1 foot down . This can be a challenge in clay soils Irrigating mature citrus Chronic drought and/or frost cycles can induce decline Often takes the form of diseases . But the disease is just a symptoms of underlying problems Citrus in Pots? It can work for a long time if you: . Have a warm, sunny location that isn’t too exposed . Use a dwarf variety . Remove the tree from the container every year . Prune the roots . Replant with fresh soil . Water consistently . Fertilize as needed . Banzai! <sic> Image: growingfruit.org Citrus in Pots? Root-binding . Hormones that regulate bud growth are made in the roots . Vise versa . Small shoot growth suggests root problems . Leaf scorch in potted citrus suggests the plant is going from too wet to too dry on a routine basis – This can cause calcium deficiencies – Chlorosis Citrus Pruning • Little required – shaping, dead wood • Timing – early spring after frost is best • Head or remove strong upright shoots • Keep “skirts” pruned up off ground • Tall trees: reduce height over 3-years, whitewash exposed limbs • Can prune fairly severely to reshape and reinvigorate tree Open Center • Most common method for citrus (and olive) • Best sunlight penetration • Easiest harvesting • Not strongest structure • There are better styles for big trees • Select scaffolds . first 2 growing seasons . touch up in dormant season Keep center open during summer from the start Ideal open center structure Radial balance Vertical separation Strong enough if done right Must have both radial and vertical branch separation, with wide crotch angles Good radial separation but poor vertical separation … leads to this Pruning response Wild citrus have thorns . Bred out of cultivars Stressed plants tend to revert toward wild type Pruned citrus may therefore develop thorns . Cultivar specific . Reversion tends to stay with the plant (like drought stress) . Don’t prune too severely! . You can prune thorns … Suckers… vs. … water sprouts The problem with suckers Grafts are never as compatible with the rootstock as its own leaves are If allowed to remain, the rootstock will outcompete the scion Lousy fruit . Pumelo . Sour orange Watersprouts Frequently a response to overpruning . The tree wants to be bigger . Sometimes a response to release (removal of factors limiting growth) – Transplanting – Removal of shade – New sources of water & nutrients Will bear good fruit Leave if they have decent structure and space? A word about IPM An integrated approach to least toxic pest management . This means using more than one technique . Spend time in your garden . Get to know your – Plants, both good and bad – Pests – Beneficials – Understand how your management decisions affect balances – Consider giving up some control http://ipm.ucanr.edu … and about today Citrus subject to many pests and diseases .
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