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Geld, Vriendschap En Sociale Tegenstellingen Een Onderzoek Naar De Paradoxale Relaties Tussen Gidsen En Alpinisten in De 19 De Eeuw

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Geld, Vriendschap En Sociale Tegenstellingen Een Onderzoek Naar De Paradoxale Relaties Tussen Gidsen En Alpinisten in De 19 De Eeuw Koen Van Loocke Promotor: Pieter François Leescommisarissen: Michael Limberger en Donald Weber Geld, vriendschap en sociale tegenstellingen Een onderzoek naar de paradoxale relaties tussen gidsen en alpinisten in de 19 de eeuw. Universiteit Gent Master geschiedenis 2009-2010 Masterscriptie 1 2 Universiteit Gent Examencommissie Geschiedenis Academiejaar 2009-2010 Verklaring in verband met de toegankelijkheid van de scriptie Ondergetekende, ………………………………………………………………………………... afgestudeerd Master in de Geschiedenis aan Universiteit Gent in het academiejaar 2009- 2010 en auteur van de scriptie met als titel: …………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………… …………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………… …………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………… …………………………………………………………………… verklaart hierbij dat zij/hij geopteerd heeft voor de hierna aangestipte mogelijkheid in verband met de consultatie van haar/zijn scriptie: o de scriptie mag steeds ter beschikking worden gesteld van elke aanvrager; o de scriptie mag enkel ter beschikking worden gesteld met uitdrukkelijke, schriftelijke goedkeuring van de auteur (maximumduur van deze beperking: 10 jaar); o de scriptie mag ter beschikking worden gesteld van een aanvrager na een wachttijd van … . jaar (maximum 10 jaar); o de scriptie mag nooit ter beschikking worden gesteld van een aanvrager (maximumduur van het verbod: 10 jaar). Elke gebruiker is te allen tijde verplicht om, wanneer van deze scriptie gebruik wordt gemaakt in het kader van wetenschappelijke en andere publicaties, een correcte en volledige bronverwijzing in de tekst op te nemen. Gent, ………………………………………(datum) ………………………………………( handtekening) 3 ‘To see at a glance, all round the most stupendous barriers of nature, and be present, as it were, at the same moment in two different valleys, leagues apart, which belongs to different kingdoms, where different languages are spoken, and whose waters flow into different seas, such novelty of combination among familiar elements excites the imagination, and gives rise to that feeling of admiring surprise which persons possessing the smallest share of the poetic 1 temperament have usually felt in such situations. ’ 1 Forbes J., ‘Travels through the Alps’, Londen, Black, 1900, pp. 517-518. 4 Inhoudstafel Dankwoord....................................................................................................................... 8 1. Inleiding.................................................................................................................. 10 2. Algemene opbouw .................................................................................................. 14 Enkele categoriën en concepten...................................................................................... 15 3. Methodologie ......................................................................................................... 22 Reisverhalen ......................................................................................................................... 22 Reisgidsen............................................................................................................................. 30 Führerbücher/Livrets de guides............................................................................................ 33 Briefwisseling tussen gidsen en alpinisten ........................................................................... 35 Notebooks en dagboeken..................................................................................................... 36 4. Sociale verschillen in Victoriaans Groot-Brittannië................................................... 40 Onderwijs.............................................................................................................................. 46 Sport, reizen en ontspanning................................................................................................ 53 Korte conclusie met betrekking tot de sociale situatie in Victoriaans Groot-Brittannië...... 58 5. geschiedenis van het alpinisme ............................................................................... 62 Pre-alpinisme (eind 18 de -midden 19 de eeuw) ....................................................................... 62 En hoe zat het met de berggidsen?.................................................................................. 64 De ‘Gouden Tijd’ van het alpinisme of ‘the Great Age of Conquest’ (ca. 1857-1865) ......... 69 Alpinisme in ontwikkeling en de invloed van de Britse alpinisten................................... 69 Toenemende institutionalisering van de alpenclubs ....................................................... 80 Beperkte omvang (Britse) klimwereld ............................................................................. 81 Professionalisering en institutionalisering van het gidswezen........................................ 85 Verdere geschiedenis van ca. 1865 tot ca. 1914: Periode van groei en verspreiding van het alpinisme. ............................................................................................................................. 90 Alpenclubs en berggidsen: sociale zekerheid en maatschappelijk belang........................... 95 6. Geld, vriendschap en sociale verschillen: ................................................................100 Over de sociale samenstelling van de Alpine Club .............................................................105 Paradox I: Geld en vriendschap..........................................................................................107 Verschil met Chamonix-systeem....................................................................................121 Conflictsituaties tussen Zwitserse en Chamonardische gidsen .....................................128 5 Over rivaliteit..................................................................................................................130 Stereotiepe en diepgaande beschrijvingen....................................................................134 Reizende gidsen..............................................................................................................141 Paradox II: Over het doorbreken van sociale verschillen ...................................................142 Verschillende hypotheses ..............................................................................................144 Belang onderwijs voor relatie klimmer-alpinist.............................................................150 En hoe keken de berggidsen naar hun klanten?............................................................154 Nuancering .........................................................................................................................157 Over de verhoudingen tussen alpinisten en de lokale bevolking enerzijds en anderzijds de relaties tussen de ‘grote’ massa toeristen en diezelfde lokale bevolking ..........................160 Verschuivingen doorheen de tijd: veranderende relaties tussen gidsen en alpinisten. .....166 Verschuivingen met betrekking tot gender? .................................................................173 Korte vergelijking met de hedendaagse situatie ...........................................................174 7. Slotbeschouwing....................................................................................................176 Bijlagen .........................................................................................................................182 Bijlage I: Kort overzicht van de door Valene Smith gehanteerde categoriën, met betrekking tot de verschillende soorten toeristen................................................................................182 Bijlage II: overzicht van de presidenten van de Alpine Club...............................................184 Bijlage III: Overzicht van de eerste beklimmingen van alle vierduizenders in de Alpen: Chronologisch gerangschikt (Britse beklimmingen staan vetgedrukt) (gidsen staan cursief gedrukt). .............................................................................................................................185 Bijlage IV: Sociale samenstelling van de Alpine Club (1857-1876)....................................189 Bibliografie Thesis..........................................................................................................190 Bronnenmateriaal: .............................................................................................................197 6 Lijst van afkortingen: - AC: Alpine Club - CAF: Club Alpin Français - CAI: Club Alpino Italiano - CAS: Club Alpin Suisse (is hetzelfde als SAC) - DAV: Deutscher Alpenverein - DÖAV of DuOeAV: Deutscher und Österreichischer Alpenverein - SAC: Schweizer Alpenclub - STD: Société des Touristes du Dauphiné - UIAA: Union Internationale des Associations d’Alpinisme 7 Dankwoord Langs deze weg zou ik in de eerste plaats mijn dank willen betuigen ten aanzien van mijn promotor, dr. Pieter François, dankzij wie deze masterscriptie zijn huidige uitzicht heeft gekregen. Bij hem kon ik steeds terecht met mijn vragen en die daar steeds in de mate van het mogelijke snel en adequaat op antwoordde. De opmerkingen en kritieken van hem zijn van groot nut geweest en hebben in belangrijke mate mee vorm gegeven aan deze scriptie, waarvoor ik hem ten zeerste dankbaar ben. Mijn dank gaat ook uit naar al diegene die geholpen hebben met het tot stand brengen van deze masterscriptie, waarbij ik vooral denk aan Glyn Hughes en Tadeusz Hudowski van The Alpine Club
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