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Traversée Dirruhorn-Nadelhorn Ou Nadelgrat (Course Non Réalisée – Texte En Cours D’Écriture)∗
Nadelhorn, 4327 m Traversée Dirruhorn-Nadelhorn ou Nadelgrat (Course non réalisée – Texte en cours d’écriture)∗ Les arêtes dont on décrit la traversée dans ces feuillets, qui relient le Dirruhorn (4035 m) au Nadelhorn (4327 m) suivant un axe NW-SE, font partie des Mischabel. Le Massif des Mischabels1 est parfois défini comme la chaîne montagneuse orientée nord-sud qui sé- pare les vallées de Zermatt à l’ouest et de Saas à l’est, dans le canton du Valais en Su- isse [5]. Selon cette description hydrologique, il serait normal de la faire descendre jusqu’au Schwarzberghorn (3609 m), qui est le point de partage des eaux entre les deux vaux préc- ités et le Val Anzasca en Italie, ou en tout cas de trouver un nom à cette chaîne. Cette définition donnerait au Massif des Mischabels une collection de 11 sommets de plus de 4000 m2 ; une fameuse brochette, contenant donc plus d’un huitième de l’ensemble des 82 sommets de plus de 4000 m des Alpes, homologués par UIAA3. Mais voilà, pour une raison qui nous échappe, la coutume en a décidé autrement et certains auteurs donnent au Mas- sif des Mischabels une étendue moindre au sud, en le limitant à l’Hohlaubgrat à l’Allalin (4027 m) [5], à l’Alphubel (4206 m) [4 ; p. 105] ou même au Täschhorn (4491 m) [2 ; p. 4]. On ne sera pas surpris d’apprendre, qu’avec de telles altitudes, cette échine de sommets forme une barrière difficilement franchissable ; son col le plus bas permettant de la traverser s’élève en effet déjà à 3539 m (situé près du col Schwarzberg Weisstor, qui lui fait 3562 m, il est sans nom sur la CNS), mais est difficile à franchir à cause d’une barre rocheuse4. -
Tourenberichte 1955 Und 1956
Tourenberichte 1955 und 1956 Objekttyp: Group Zeitschrift: Jahresbericht / Akademischer Alpen-Club Zürich Band (Jahr): 60-61 (1955-1956) PDF erstellt am: 30.09.2021 Nutzungsbedingungen Die ETH-Bibliothek ist Anbieterin der digitalisierten Zeitschriften. Sie besitzt keine Urheberrechte an den Inhalten der Zeitschriften. Die Rechte liegen in der Regel bei den Herausgebern. Die auf der Plattform e-periodica veröffentlichten Dokumente stehen für nicht-kommerzielle Zwecke in Lehre und Forschung sowie für die private Nutzung frei zur Verfügung. Einzelne Dateien oder Ausdrucke aus diesem Angebot können zusammen mit diesen Nutzungsbedingungen und den korrekten Herkunftsbezeichnungen weitergegeben werden. Das Veröffentlichen von Bildern in Print- und Online-Publikationen ist nur mit vorheriger Genehmigung der Rechteinhaber erlaubt. Die systematische Speicherung von Teilen des elektronischen Angebots auf anderen Servern bedarf ebenfalls des schriftlichen Einverständnisses der Rechteinhaber. Haftungsausschluss Alle Angaben erfolgen ohne Gewähr für Vollständigkeit oder Richtigkeit. Es wird keine Haftung übernommen für Schäden durch die Verwendung von Informationen aus diesem Online-Angebot oder durch das Fehlen von Informationen. Dies gilt auch für Inhalte Dritter, die über dieses Angebot zugänglich sind. Ein Dienst der ETH-Bibliothek ETH Zürich, Rämistrasse 101, 8092 Zürich, Schweiz, www.library.ethz.ch http://www.e-periodica.ch Tourenberichte 1955 und 1956 A. Berichte der aktiven Mitglieder D/Wer Sommer 1955: Salbitschijen (S-Grat), Bergseeschijen (S-Grat), Schijenstock (S-Grat), Zinalrothorn (Rothorngrat), Dom, Wellenkuppe, Großglockner, Marmolata (W-Grat), Rosenlauistock (W-Kante), Korsikatouren. Sommer 1956: Pa»/ AfemAerz: Winter 1955: Piz Gendusas, Piz Medel, Cima di Camadre, Cuolm Val-Piz Calmot, Fellilücke-Piz Tiarms (trav.), Piz Borel-Cadlimo-Paß Nalps, Piz Malèr (V), Crispaltlücke-Piz Giuf-Krützlipaß-Oberalpstock-Piz Cavardiras, Piz Sol, Piz Platta, Grand Combin, Petit Combin-Col des Avouillons. -
4000 M Peaks of the Alps Normal and Classic Routes
rock&ice 3 4000 m Peaks of the Alps Normal and classic routes idea Montagna editoria e alpinismo Rock&Ice l 4000m Peaks of the Alps l Contents CONTENTS FIVE • • 51a Normal Route to Punta Giordani 257 WEISSHORN AND MATTERHORN ALPS 175 • 52a Normal Route to the Vincent Pyramid 259 • Preface 5 12 Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey 101 35 Dent d’Hérens 180 • 52b Punta Giordani-Vincent Pyramid 261 • Introduction 6 • 12 North Face Right 102 • 35a Normal Route 181 Traverse • Geogrpahic location 14 13 Gran Pilier d’Angle 108 • 35b Tiefmatten Ridge (West Ridge) 183 53 Schwarzhorn/Corno Nero 265 • Technical notes 16 • 13 South Face and Peuterey Ridge 109 36 Matterhorn 185 54 Ludwigshöhe 265 14 Mont Blanc de Courmayeur 114 • 36a Hörnli Ridge (Hörnligrat) 186 55 Parrotspitze 265 ONE • MASSIF DES ÉCRINS 23 • 14 Eccles Couloir and Peuterey Ridge 115 • 36b Lion Ridge 192 • 53-55 Traverse of the Three Peaks 266 1 Barre des Écrins 26 15-19 Aiguilles du Diable 117 37 Dent Blanche 198 56 Signalkuppe 269 • 1a Normal Route 27 15 L’Isolée 117 • 37 Normal Route via the Wandflue Ridge 199 57 Zumsteinspitze 269 • 1b Coolidge Couloir 30 16 Pointe Carmen 117 38 Bishorn 202 • 56-57 Normal Route to the Signalkuppe 270 2 Dôme de Neige des Écrins 32 17 Pointe Médiane 117 • 38 Normal Route 203 and the Zumsteinspitze • 2 Normal Route 32 18 Pointe Chaubert 117 39 Weisshorn 206 58 Dufourspitze 274 19 Corne du Diable 117 • 39 Normal Route 207 59 Nordend 274 TWO • GRAN PARADISO MASSIF 35 • 15-19 Aiguilles du Diable Traverse 118 40 Ober Gabelhorn 212 • 58a Normal Route to the Dufourspitze -
The A.M.A. Alpine Meet, 1959
214 THE A.M.A. ALPINE MEET, 1959 THE A.M.A. ALPINE MEET, 1959 BY E. J. E. MILLS N MAY 1957 the Army Mountaineering Association came into being. The loss of easy access to the Himalaya had in no way diminished the numbers of post-war soldier mountaineers. As in civil life, mountaineering was gaining a larger following in the Army. Their enthusiasm had been demonstrated by the Parachute Brigade Expedi tions to Ruwenzori in 1954 and Alaska1 in 1956. These two ventures had also shown that if the right approaches were made, the \Var Office were prepared to give support and encouragement. By early 1957 the planning of the Army-inspired British-Pakistani Forces Himalayan Expedition had begun and in that same year there were no less than seven major corps or regimental mountaineering clubs in existence. 1\llountaineering was still not, however, officially recognised as a sport by the Army and as such was denied the advan tages mainly financial which other pursuits enjoyed. This was anomalous, for climbing was pursued far more actively and enthusiasti cally than many 'official' sports. It was therefore obvious that the interests of Army climbers would best be served by the formation of an authoritative body which could gain this recognition and foster mountaineering in the service. ) The first moves to set up such an organisation were made by Col. Gerry Finch. The idea of the Army Mountaineering Association was largely his and, although supported by several officers, who were also members of the Alpine Club, it was through his efforts and enthusiasm that the Association came into being. -
Stevie Haston Aleš Česen Malcolm Bass Tom Ballard Steve Skelton F.Lli Franchini Korra Pesce
# 33 Stile Alpino Luoghi & Montagne MONTE BIANCO BHAGIRATHI III CIVETTA KISHTWAR SHIVLING GASHERBRUM IV HIMALAYA MALTA TAULLIRAJU Protagonisti STEVIE HASTON ALEš ČESEN MALCOLM BASS TOM BALLARD STEVE SKELTON F.LLI FRANCHINI KORRA PESCE Speciale PILASTRO ROSSO DEL BROUILLARD In collaborazione con: ALPINE STUDIO EDITORE Trimestrale anno VIII n° 33 settembre 2016 (n. 3/2016) € 4,90 La giacca più leggera e impermeabile del momento LIGHTWEIGHT WITHOUT COMPROMISE MINIMUS 777 JACKET Con un peso di soli 139g, la Minimus 777 è una giacca per Alpinismo e da Trail di una leggerezza estrema, con 3 strati impermeabili, una traspirabilità elevata e una comprimibilità senza precedenti. Pertex® Shield + exclusive technology: 7 denier face, 7 micron membrane, 7 denier tricot backer montane.eu La giacca più leggera e EDITORIAL # 33 impermeabile del momento • Firstly I would like to openly admit that I do not really like to write about or com- ment on other peoples mountaineering endeavors, because it is impossible to comple- tely understand an experience in the mountains unless you have lived it yourself. Ten years after my predecessor I will have the difficult task to replace Fabio Palma in writing the editorials of Stile Alpino. Certainly he is better skilled than me in writing and has been one of the creators of this magazine founded by the Ragni di Lecco group. Nonetheless, I will try to be up to the job helping to select the last ascents around the world and to suggest new places but always taking care to include ascents in the Alps and close to home. The objective of Stile Alpino is to improve and steadily grow in order to publish ar- ticles, that might not have been published before, on ascents in unknown or known areas. -
In Memoriam 115
IN MEMORIAM 115 • IN MEMORIAM CLAUDE WILSON 1860-1937 THE death of Claude Wilson within a few weeks of attaining his seventy-seventh birthday came as a terrible shock to his many friends. Few of us even knew that he was ill, but in the manner of his passing none can regret that there was no lingering illness. We can but quote his own words in Lord Conway's obituary: 'the best we can wish for those that we love is that they may be spared prolonged and hopeless ill health.' His brain remained clear up to the last twenty-four hours and he suffered no pain. The end occurred on October 31. With Claude Wilson's death an epoch of mountaineering comes to an end. He was of those who made guideless and Alpine history from Montenvers in the early 'nineties, of whom but Collie, Kesteven, Bradby, ~olly and Charles Pasteur still survive. That school, in which Mummery and Morse were perhaps the most prominent examples, was not composed of specialists. Its members had learnt their craft under the best Valais and Oberland guides; they were equally-proficient on rocks or on snow. It mattered little who was acting as leader in the ascent or last man in the descent. They were prepared to turn back if conditions or weather proved unfavourable. They took chances as all mountaineers are forced to do at times but no fatal accidents, no unfortunate incidents, marred that great page of Alpine history, a page not confined to Mont Blanc alone but distributed throughout the Western Alps. -
Your Disability Is Your Opportunity: a Historical Study of Kurt Hahn Focusing on the Early Development of Outdoor Activities
Your Disability is Your Opportunity: A historical study of Kurt Hahn focusing on the early development of outdoor activities. Nicholas James Veevers DISSERTATION PRESENTED IN PART FULFILMENT OF THE REQUIREMENTS OF THE DEGREE OF MASTER OF SCIENCE IN OUTDOOR EDUCATION UNIVERSITY OF EDINBURGH MORAY HOUSE SCHOOL OF EDUCATION (2006) This dissertation is dedicated to the most honourable man I have ever met, my father, Jim Veevers, who died after a long illness during its construction. To him I owe my love of the outdoors. “Because I had the opportunities he did not” ABSTRACT It appears that Kurt Hahn (1886 – 1974) did not produce a specific piece of work which traced, in detail, his development of outdoor activities. Research indicated that, although there have been studies examining his educational theory as a whole, there have been no detailed studies which have specifically investigated Hahn’s development of outdoor activities in an historical context. As Hahn was one of the field’s greatest advocates, a historical study, tracing his development of outdoor activities, was needed to document these events. The aim was to provide the most in-depth historical account possible (up to, and including the 1944 Education Act) and so provide a clearer version of events than existed previously. The research used an inductive approach based on primary data (documents, interviews, correspondence) which was processed using thematic analysis. These findings show that Hahn’s development of outdoor activities is much more complicated than the often quoted fact of him being one of the founders of Outward Bound in 1941. For an accurate understanding of Hahn’s contribution to the outdoor experiential education field this should be recognised. -
For the Reh~ of the Day
for the reh~ of the day. Setting o~tt at three A.M. on May 30, they evacuated Camp II and dcsccndcd to Camp I at seven A.M. and to Base Camp at ~cn A.M. Camp I was evacuated on May 3 I and Base Camp on June I WC got 10 La&en on J~tnc 2. We ~tsetl no fixed ropes. WC had 1‘0~11.8tnm ropes only (two for cad1 party) and so the ascent was semi-alpine-style. Our route was the same as that of the previous parIies. S’i/t/o/c/~l/ Attrnrpt. Our expedition wa\ composed of Sen Hiraiami, Atau\hi Koyama. Ryouke Wakuuwa and I as lea&r. On May 8. we reached only 3X00 meter\ aticl had to turn bath beca~i~ of bad weather and a tight schedule. We established Baw Camp at Yabuk at 3978 meter< on May 3. Advance Base at 4570 meters on May 5 and after closing the Zctnu Glacter. Camp I at 4600 meter\ on the Siniolchu Glacier on May 7. This wa\ really a reconnaissance for 1995. M,zG\~o NOV. M.D., 7i,lroX~r U/tr~~/.\it\, SC/too/ c~fMdic,ir7c, h/m Ktrhu, Sr~tl7. An Indian Army expedition led by Colonel H.S. Chaukan, former head of the Hitnalaynn Mountaineering Institute in Manali claitns to have climbed Kabru South (7.3 17 meters, 24.096 feet) for the first time. It is reported that I.3 mcmbcrs reached the top led by Captain S.P. -
President 1931-1933 the Fell and Rock Climbing Club of the ENGLISH LAKE DISTRICT VOL
CHARLES F. HADFIELD. President 1931-1933 THE Fell and Rock Climbing Club OF THE ENGLISH LAKE DISTRICT VOL. 9. 1932. No. 2. LIST OF OFFICERS. President: DR. C. F. HADFIELD Vice-Presidents: W. G. MILLIGAN Miss K. WARD Honorary Editor of Journal: Mrs. R. S. T. CHORLEY, The Rookery, Stanmore, Middlesex Assistant Hon. Editor: GRAHAM WILSON, High Bield, Loose, Maidstone, Kent from whom copies of the Journal may be obtained Honorary Librarian: MRS. B. C. ALFEROFF, Little Holcombe House, Holcombe, Bury. Honorary Secretary: J. C. APPLEYARD, Greystones, Torver, Coniston, Lanes. Tel. Coniston 31: Assistant Hon. Secretary: L. H. POLLITT, Ivy Bank, Chorley Road, Swinton. Honorary Treasurer: W. G. MILLIGAN, 59 Croslands Park, Barrow. Trustees of Club Funds : A. P. ABRAHAM, F. L. COOK, and G. A. SOLLY. Members of Committee: DR. M. M. BARKER W. G. PAPE P. D. BOOTHROYD MRS. B. EDEN-SMITH Miss M. FITZGIBBON L. W. SOMERVELL A. T. HARGREAVES G. R. SPEAKER B. S. HARLOW E. WOOD-JOHNSON D. LEIGHTON J. WRAY Honorary Members: GEORGE D. ABRAHAM BRIG.-GEM. THE HON. C. G. BRUCE. BENTLEY BEETHAM J. NORMAN COLLIE W. P. HASKETT-SMITH GEOFFREY HASTINGS THE RT. HON. LORD LECONFIELD LT.-COL. E. F. NORTON N. E. ODELL E. H. P. SCANTLEBURY GODFREY A. SOLLY T. HOWARD SOMERVELL ARTHUR W. WAKEFIELD L. R. WILBERFORCE GEOFFREY WINTHROP YOUNG 123 A RIDE IN ICELAND By E. W. HODGE The parsonage of Skutustadhir, a pretty little concrete house in the Dutch style, stands on the shores of Myvatn. The tenant, like most of his clerical brethren, is telephone operator, sheep- farmer, and occasional inn-keeper, in addition to his apparently quite nominal parish duties. -
DIE VIELEN GESICHTER DER DENT D’HÉRENS Hochgebirge Wagten
ALPINE GESCHICHTE, KULTUR, ERZÄHLUNGEN T E X T /F O T OS Françoise Funk-Salamì, Zürich (ü) Walliser Landschreiber Antoni Lambien das «Weisszeh- horn»1 auf seiner Karte. Dieser Name wandelte sich später rreicht man über die Serpentinen ob Sitten das Dorf in «Wyss Zehen Horn», «Zehen Horn» und «Weiszeh- Vex am Eingang des Val d’Hérens, erscheint weit in horn»2 und ab 1820 ins französische «Dent Blanche». Der E der Ferne die unverwechselbare Kulisse der Dent Name Dent d’Hérens hingegen ist in kartografi schen d’Hérens, 4171 m. Taleinwärts gehend, verschwindet sie Zeugnissen noch relativ jung. aber schon bald wieder. Und wer sich von der dominan- Doch welcher Berg war mit «Weisszehhorn» gemeint? ten Dent Blanche in Bann ziehen lässt, wird sie in Evolène Auf alten Karten3 ist das Weisszahnhorn im Alpenhaupt- kaum mehr beachten. Trotzdem tragen sie und das Tal kamm westlich vom Matterhorn, etwa an der Stelle der den gleichen Namen. Was nicht immer so war, wurde die heutigen Dent d’Hérens, eingezeichnet. Galt also der Dent d’Hérens doch auch als Dent Blanche bezeichnet. Name ursprünglich ihr? Für den Engländer Coolidge be- Dies entspräche eher den Gegebenheiten, denn die Dent stand kein Zweifel, dass das Weisszahnhorn auf diesen Blanche, die mächtige Felspyramide über Les Haudères, Karten falsch kartiert worden war und dass damit die vom ist alles andere als weiss. Im Gegensatz zur Dent d’Hérens, Tal aus dominant und näher gelegene, heutige Dent Blan- dem mächtigen vergletscherten Zahn im Talkessel von che gemeint war. Zmutt, dessen Anblick fast in die Gebirgswelt des Pamir Dies lässt sich nachvollziehen, wenn man weiss, dass versetzt. -
Tour De Monte Rosa
TOUR DE MONTE ROSA Complete the Tour de Monte Rosa, a superb Alpine trekking holiday around Switzerland's highest peak Complete a full 9-day walking circuit around the Monte Rosa massif Walk hut-to-hut and overnight in a succession of atmospheric Alpine refuges Be immersed in stunning Swiss and Italian Alpine scenery, with views of the Matterhorn Experience one of Europe's finest walking holidays - an undiscovered gem HOLIDAY CODE TMR Switzerland, Trek & Walk, 11 Days 5 nights mountain hut / refuge, 5 nights hotel, 10 breakfasts, 10 dinners, max group size: 10, 9 days trekking, max altitude - 3317m VIEW DATES, PRICES & BOOK YOUR HOLIDAY HERE www.keadventure.com UK: +44(0) 17687 73966 US (toll-free): 1-888-630-4415 PAGE 2 TOUR DE MONTE ROSA Introduction Classic walking holiday adventure trekking around Monte Rosa in the Swiss Alps. One of the finest long-distance trekking opportunities in Alpine Europe is the walking circuit of the huge, many-summitted massif of Monte Rosa (4634m) in the Swiss Alps. Starting out from the picturesque Alpine village of Saas Fee, our walking follows a clockwise direction, crossing from Switzerland then trekking into Italy and then back again. This undiscovered gem of a walking route around Monte Rosa keeps to the high ground as much as possible, close up beneath towering Alpine peaks, crossing airy passes and encountering snowfields and even walking over glaciers. En route, there are stunning views of many of the big peaks of the Alps, such as the Dom (4545m) Weisshorn (4596m) and particularly memorable Matterhorn (4478m). -
Mountaineering Ventures
70fcvSs )UNTAINEERING Presented to the UNIVERSITY OF TORONTO LIBRARY by the ONTARIO LEGISLATIVE LIBRARY 1980 v Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2010 with funding from University of Toronto http://www.archive.org/details/mountaineeringveOObens 1 £1. =3 ^ '3 Kg V- * g-a 1 O o « IV* ^ MOUNTAINEERING VENTURES BY CLAUDE E. BENSON Ltd. LONDON : T. C. & E. C. JACK, 35 & 36 PATERNOSTER ROW, E.C. AND EDINBURGH PREFATORY NOTE This book of Mountaineering Ventures is written primarily not for the man of the peaks, but for the man of the level pavement. Certain technicalities and commonplaces of the sport have therefore been explained not once, but once and again as they occur in the various chapters. The intent is that any reader who may elect to cull the chapters as he lists may not find himself unpleasantly confronted with unfamiliar phraseology whereof there is no elucidation save through the exasperating medium of a glossary or a cross-reference. It must be noted that the percentage of fatal accidents recorded in the following pages far exceeds the actual average in proportion to ascents made, which indeed can only be reckoned in many places of decimals. The explanation is that this volume treats not of regular routes, tariffed and catalogued, but of Ventures—an entirely different matter. Were it within his powers, the compiler would wish ade- quately to express his thanks to the many kind friends who have assisted him with loans of books, photographs, good advice, and, more than all, by encouraging countenance. Failing this, he must resort to the miserably insufficient re- source of cataloguing their names alphabetically.