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Dufourspitze 4634M £1699
Icicle Mountaineering Ltd | 11a Church Street Windermere | Lake District | LA23 1AQ | UK Tel +44 (0)1539 44 22 17 | [email protected] Website: www.icicle-mountaineering.ltd.uk Online: shop.icicle-mountaineering.ltd.uk 2020 trip dossier | Dufourspitze 4634m £1699 Website link | http://www.icicle-mountaineering.ltd.uk/dufourspitze.html Key features Climb Dufourspitze, the highest mountain in Switzerland and second highest in the Alps.. 5 days guiding (Monday - Friday), with flexible itinerary to take advantage of the best conditions. Previous crampon or climbing experience is required, as this is a progression from an Intro course. Led by top qualified guides (IFMGA), guiding ratio 1:2 throughout the course. All technical equipment (e.g. B3 boots, crampons, ice axe etc.) can be hired from Icicle 2020 dates; 5 - 11 Jul, 19 - 25 Jul, 26 Jul - 1 Aug, 9 - 15 Aug, 30 Aug -+- 5 Sep. Icicle® is the registered trademark of Icicle Mountaineering UK registered company 413 6635. VAT 770 137 933 20 years ‘inspirational mountain adventure holidays’ established in 2000 Icicle Mountaineering Ltd | 11a Church Street Windermere | Lake District | LA23 1AQ | UK Tel +44 (0)1539 44 22 17 | [email protected] Website: www.icicle-mountaineering.ltd.uk Online: shop.icicle-mountaineering.ltd.uk Course overview . Climb the highest summit of Monte Rosa; Dufourspitze 4634m. It's the highest mountain in Switzerland, and the second highest in all of the Alps after Mont Blanc. We offer a week long programme to attempt this peak, as your acclimatisation and flexibility for selecting a weather window are crucial. To keep the itinerary flexibilty, the guiding ratio is 1:2 throughout, so you can take advantage of the best days for the summit weather window. -
Workshop on Transboundary Wildlife Management
ALPBIONET2030 Integrative Alpine wildlife and habitat management for the next generation REPORT Workshop on Transboundary wildlife management 10 October 2017, Trenta, Triglav National Park, Slovenia (Alpbionet2030 – Work Package 2) Integrative Alpine wildlife and habitat management for the next generation A workshop to discuss tactics and devise actions for transboundary wildlife management between the wildlife managers of Transboundary Ecoregion Julian Alps, defined as the sum of Triglav Hunting Management Area and Gorenjska Hunting Management Area (Slovenia) and Tarvisiano Hunting District (Italy) with their core protected areas of Triglav National Park and Prealpi Giulie Nature Park, was held at the conference facilities of the “Dom Trenta” National Park house in Trenta. This Workshop is one of the activities of WP T.2 of the Alpbionet2030 project co- financed by the EU Alpine Space Programme. INTRODUCTION The behaviour and habitat use of animals can be strongly affected by hunting methods and wildlife management strategies. Hunting and wildlife management therefore have an influence on ecological connectivity. Lack of consistency in wildlife management between regions can cause problems for population connectivity for some species, particularly those with large home ranges, (e.g. some deer and large carnivores). Hunting seasons, feeding (or lack thereof), the existence of resting zones where hunting is prohibited, legal provisions for wildlife corridors, even administrative authority for wildlife management differ from one Alpine country to another. The Mountain Forest Protocol of the Alpine Convention (1996) asks parties to harmonise their measures for regulating the game animals, but so far this is only happening in a few isolated instances. Thus, to further the goals of ecological connectivity, ALPBIONET2030 aims coordinate wildlife management in selected pilot areas. -
Alphubel (4206 M)
Alphubel (4206 m) Hochtour | Walliser Alpen 500+1500 Hm | insg. 12:00 Std. | Schwierigkeit (3 von 6) Vom Gletscherdorf Saas-Fee aus präsentiert sich der Alphubel von seiner schönsten Seite - als gewaltiger Gletscherkoloss und als einer der markantesten Viertausender überhaupt. Der Normalweg führt auf der Rückseite des Berges vom Mattertal über die heimelige Täschhütte auf das große Gipfelplateau, das wie ein riesiger Tanzplatz zwischen Himmel und Erde wirkt. Technisch gehört die Normalroute auf den Alphubel zu den leichteren Routen auf einen der für das Tourenbuch so begehrten Viertausender. © Tourentipp.com 2021 Seite 1/3 1 2 3 4 5 6 Schwierigkeit Kondition Gefahrenpotenzial Landschaft Frequentierung Anfahrt: Von Deutschland mit dem Auto über Oberalppass / Furka oder via Lötschberg-Bahnverladung ins Rhônetal nach Visp. Weiter von Visp über Stalden ins Mattertal nach Täsch (1450 m). Empfehlenswert ist auch die Anreise per Bahn über Zürich und Visp direkt nach Täsch. Von Täsch aus führt eine kleine Bergstraße zur Siedlung Ottavan auf der Täschalp (2205 m), dort gebührenfreier Parkplatz. Bahnreisende können auch eines der regelmäßig verkehrenden Sammeltaxis nutzen (SFr. 10,-, Stand 2013). Ausgangspunkt: Siedlung Ottavan auf der Täschalp (2205 m) im Mattertal Route: Hüttenzustieg: Auf gut beschildertem, breiten Hüttenweg in ca. 1 ¼ Stunden direkt zur Täschhütte (2701 m). Die Hütte ist bereits vom Parkplatz aus zu sehen. Gipfelanstieg: Von der Täschhütte (2701 m) führt ein deutlicher Weg (Schild: Alphubelsee) zunächst Richtung Ostsüdosten über zwei der drei „Schreienden Bäche“ in den Chumibodmen. Nun am dritten Bach entlang, jetzt steiler durch Blockwerk in östlicher Richtung. Die deutliche Spur verliert sich in verschiedenen kleinen Wegen, die aber alle über weichen Gletschersand am großen Alphubelsee vorbei zum Anseilplatz auf einer Felsenrippe am südlichen Arm des Alphubelgletschers führen (3300 m). -
Moüjmtaiim Operations
L f\f¿ áfó b^i,. ‘<& t¿ ytn) ¿L0d àw 1 /1 ^ / / /This publication contains copyright material. *FM 90-6 FieW Manual HEADQUARTERS No We DEPARTMENT OF THE ARMY Washington, DC, 30 June 1980 MOÜJMTAIIM OPERATIONS PREFACE he purpose of this rUanual is to describe how US Army forces fight in mountain regions. Conditions will be encountered in mountains that have a significant effect on. military operations. Mountain operations require, among other things^ special equipment, special training and acclimatization, and a high decree of self-discipline if operations are to succeed. Mountains of military significance are generally characterized by rugged compartmented terrain witn\steep slopes and few natural or manmade lines of communication. Weather in these mountains is seasonal and reaches across the entireSspectrum from extreme cold, with ice and snow in most regions during me winter, to extreme heat in some regions during the summer. AlthoughNthese extremes of weather are important planning considerations, the variability of weather over a short period of time—and from locality to locahty within the confines of a small area—also significantly influences tactical operations. Historically, the focal point of mountain operations has been the battle to control the heights. Changes in weaponry and equipment have not altered this fact. In all but the most extreme conditions of terrain and weather, infantry, with its light equipment and mobility, remains the basic maneuver force in the mountains. With proper equipment and training, it is ideally suited for fighting the close-in battfe commonly associated with mountain warfare. Mechanized infantry can\also enter the mountain battle, but it must be prepared to dismount and conduct operations on foot. -
Case Study Skyway Mont Blanc, Courmayeur (IT)
Skyway Mont Blanc Case study Skyway Mont Blanc, Courmayeur (IT) Client: Funivie Monte Bianco AG, Courmayeur (IT) Architect: STUDIO PROGETTI Architect Carlo Cillara Rossi, Genua (IT) General contractor: Doppelmayr Italia GmbH, Lana Project completion: 2015 Products: FalZinc®, foldable Aluminium with a pre-weathered zinc surface Skyway Mont Blanc Mont Blanc, or ‘Monte Bianco’ in Italian, is situated between France and Italy and stands proud within The Graian Alps mountain range. Truly captivating, this majestic ‘White Mountain’ reaches 4,810 metres in height making it the highest peak in Europe. Mont Blanc has been casting a spell over people for hundreds of years with the first courageous mountaineers attempting to climb and conquer her as early as 1740. Today, cable cars can take you almost all of the way to the summit and Skyway Mont Blanc provides the latest and most innovative means of transport. Located above the village of Courmayeur in the independent region of Valle d‘Aosta in the Italian Alps Skyway Mont Blanc is as equally futuristic looking as the name suggests. Stunning architectural design combined with the unique flexibility and understated elegance of the application of FalZinc® foldable aluminium from Kalzip® harmonises and brings this design to reality. Fassade und Dach harmonieren in Aluminium Projekt der Superlative commences at the Pontal d‘Entrèves valley Skyway Mont Blanc was officially opened mid- station at 1,300 metres above sea level. From cabins have panoramic glazing and rotate 2015, after taking some five years to construct. here visitors are further transported up to 360° degrees whilst travelling and with a The project was developed, designed and 2,200 metres to the second station, Mont speed of 9 metres per second the cable car constructed by South Tyrolean company Fréty Pavilion, and then again to reach, to the journey takes just 19 minutes from start to Doppelmayr Italia GmbH and is operated highest station of Punta Helbronner at 3,500 finish. -
IN and out of SAAS. G. W. Murray
IN AND OUT OF SAAS IN AN.D OUT OF SAAS BY G. w. MURRAY OST of us are agreed that our mountaineering ought to be rather more than an indiscriminate attack upon the perpendicular. That is to say, we do employ some method in our choice of objective, even if we restrict our assaults to the V£ertausender. Such a selection seems austere but rather too exclusive. Some years ago, when the peak-baggers were at their worst and they saw the glorious sky-lines of Saas and Zermatt only as so many scenic railways, I devised a game far better suited to my dignity and middle age. According to this convention, the Saas valley, from afar, was considered a stronghold to be carried at all hazards while, once an entrance had been forced, it became a prison to be broken out of at no matter what cost of in genuity or agility. A route, once made, was not to be repeated. Half a dozen -vvays, such as the' Col de Stalden,' the Simeli-Sirwolten route, the Rossboden Pass, the Monte Moro, the Adler and the Allalin, had already been done, and so were disqualified. Another obvious one, the Antrona, -vvas closed to us by the Italian Government. The Zwischbergen Pass appeared unworthy of the new idea; moreover, one easy route had to be left to the future in case we found ourselves condemned by old age and the convention to reside in Saas for the rest of our natural lives. But to find a seventh and better route professional advice and assistance became necessary, so I enlisted as our ally Oscar Supersaxo. -
IFP 1707 Dent Blanche – Matterhorn – Monte Rosa
Inventaire fédéral des paysages, sites et monuments naturels d'importance nationale IFP IFP 1707 Dent Blanche – Matterhorn – Monte Rosa Canton Communes Surface Valais Evolène, Zermatt 26 951 ha Le Gornergletscher et le Grenzgletscher IFP 1707 Dent Blanche – Matterhorn – Monte Rosa Stellisee Hameau de Zmutt Dent Blanche avec glacier de Ferpècle 1 IFP 1707 Dent Blanche – Matterhorn – Monte Rosa 1 Justification de l’importance nationale 1.1 Région de haute montagne au caractère naturel et sauvage, avec nombreux sommets de plus de 4000 m d’altitude 1.2 Mont Rose, massif alpin avec le plus haut sommet de Suisse 1.3 Mont Cervin, montagne emblématique à forme pyramidale 1.4 Plusieurs glaciers de grande étendue avec marges proglaciaires intactes, en particulier le Gornergletscher, l’un des plus grands systèmes glaciaires de Suisse 1.5 Marmites glaciaires, roches polies et stries glaciaires, structures représentatives des diverses formes glaciaires 1.6 Situation tectonique unique dans les Alpes suisses, superposant des unités tectoniques et des roches de provenances paléogéographiques très variées 1.7 Vastes forêts naturelles de mélèzes et d’aroles 1.8 Phénomènes glaciaires et stades morainiques remarquables et diversifiés 1.9 Zones riches en cours d’eau et lacs d’altitude 1.10 Grande richesse floristique et faunistique, comprenant de nombreuses espèces rares et endémiques 1.11 Zmutt, hameau avec des bâtiments traditionnels bien conservés 2 Description 2.1 Caractère du paysage Le site Dent Blanche-Matterhorn-Monte Rosa est une zone de haute montagne encadrée de massifs montagneux imposants dans la partie méridionale du Valais et à la frontière avec l’Italie. -
The Matterhorn Centenary
TI-IE MATTERHORN CENTENARY THE MATTERHORN CENTENARY BY B. R. GOODFELLO'IV (Five illustrations: nos. 50- 54) DWARD WHYMPER must have appreciated in his lifetime that his ascent of the Matterhorn and his own dramatic account of the ............. disaster had added immeasurably to the glamour of that incom parable mountain. So he must have realised the great contribution which he made personally to the greater prosperity of the people of Zermatt; they have long acknowledged this and the centenary was closely linked with Whymper"s name. But he could scarcely have foreseen the impact of to-day's mass affluence, of the rise of ski-ing and of universal publicity on the Alpine village he had known first over 100 years ago. We had all expected for some years that the centenary of the Matter horn ascent would be used by Zermatt for publicity on the grand scale. With the true mountain lovers' distaste for the prostitution of the Alps for commercial ends, many decided to keep away in 1965. But by doing so they missed a great occasion. For, although the Festival Week was unashamedly dedicated to Zermatt propaganda, the whole of the func tions were conducted in the very best of taste. Above all Zermatt, for this week, was the meeting place for mountaineers from all over Europe and from America, India and further afield. Enjoying the warm and generous hospitality of our Swiss hosts, we made many valuable new friendships and renewed old ones. The Alpine Club came in some strength, more than fifty in number, many with their wives and some with their families. -
Tourenberichte 1955 Und 1956
Tourenberichte 1955 und 1956 Objekttyp: Group Zeitschrift: Jahresbericht / Akademischer Alpen-Club Zürich Band (Jahr): 60-61 (1955-1956) PDF erstellt am: 30.09.2021 Nutzungsbedingungen Die ETH-Bibliothek ist Anbieterin der digitalisierten Zeitschriften. Sie besitzt keine Urheberrechte an den Inhalten der Zeitschriften. Die Rechte liegen in der Regel bei den Herausgebern. Die auf der Plattform e-periodica veröffentlichten Dokumente stehen für nicht-kommerzielle Zwecke in Lehre und Forschung sowie für die private Nutzung frei zur Verfügung. Einzelne Dateien oder Ausdrucke aus diesem Angebot können zusammen mit diesen Nutzungsbedingungen und den korrekten Herkunftsbezeichnungen weitergegeben werden. Das Veröffentlichen von Bildern in Print- und Online-Publikationen ist nur mit vorheriger Genehmigung der Rechteinhaber erlaubt. Die systematische Speicherung von Teilen des elektronischen Angebots auf anderen Servern bedarf ebenfalls des schriftlichen Einverständnisses der Rechteinhaber. Haftungsausschluss Alle Angaben erfolgen ohne Gewähr für Vollständigkeit oder Richtigkeit. Es wird keine Haftung übernommen für Schäden durch die Verwendung von Informationen aus diesem Online-Angebot oder durch das Fehlen von Informationen. Dies gilt auch für Inhalte Dritter, die über dieses Angebot zugänglich sind. Ein Dienst der ETH-Bibliothek ETH Zürich, Rämistrasse 101, 8092 Zürich, Schweiz, www.library.ethz.ch http://www.e-periodica.ch Tourenberichte 1955 und 1956 A. Berichte der aktiven Mitglieder D/Wer Sommer 1955: Salbitschijen (S-Grat), Bergseeschijen (S-Grat), Schijenstock (S-Grat), Zinalrothorn (Rothorngrat), Dom, Wellenkuppe, Großglockner, Marmolata (W-Grat), Rosenlauistock (W-Kante), Korsikatouren. Sommer 1956: Pa»/ AfemAerz: Winter 1955: Piz Gendusas, Piz Medel, Cima di Camadre, Cuolm Val-Piz Calmot, Fellilücke-Piz Tiarms (trav.), Piz Borel-Cadlimo-Paß Nalps, Piz Malèr (V), Crispaltlücke-Piz Giuf-Krützlipaß-Oberalpstock-Piz Cavardiras, Piz Sol, Piz Platta, Grand Combin, Petit Combin-Col des Avouillons. -
4000 M Peaks of the Alps Normal and Classic Routes
rock&ice 3 4000 m Peaks of the Alps Normal and classic routes idea Montagna editoria e alpinismo Rock&Ice l 4000m Peaks of the Alps l Contents CONTENTS FIVE • • 51a Normal Route to Punta Giordani 257 WEISSHORN AND MATTERHORN ALPS 175 • 52a Normal Route to the Vincent Pyramid 259 • Preface 5 12 Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey 101 35 Dent d’Hérens 180 • 52b Punta Giordani-Vincent Pyramid 261 • Introduction 6 • 12 North Face Right 102 • 35a Normal Route 181 Traverse • Geogrpahic location 14 13 Gran Pilier d’Angle 108 • 35b Tiefmatten Ridge (West Ridge) 183 53 Schwarzhorn/Corno Nero 265 • Technical notes 16 • 13 South Face and Peuterey Ridge 109 36 Matterhorn 185 54 Ludwigshöhe 265 14 Mont Blanc de Courmayeur 114 • 36a Hörnli Ridge (Hörnligrat) 186 55 Parrotspitze 265 ONE • MASSIF DES ÉCRINS 23 • 14 Eccles Couloir and Peuterey Ridge 115 • 36b Lion Ridge 192 • 53-55 Traverse of the Three Peaks 266 1 Barre des Écrins 26 15-19 Aiguilles du Diable 117 37 Dent Blanche 198 56 Signalkuppe 269 • 1a Normal Route 27 15 L’Isolée 117 • 37 Normal Route via the Wandflue Ridge 199 57 Zumsteinspitze 269 • 1b Coolidge Couloir 30 16 Pointe Carmen 117 38 Bishorn 202 • 56-57 Normal Route to the Signalkuppe 270 2 Dôme de Neige des Écrins 32 17 Pointe Médiane 117 • 38 Normal Route 203 and the Zumsteinspitze • 2 Normal Route 32 18 Pointe Chaubert 117 39 Weisshorn 206 58 Dufourspitze 274 19 Corne du Diable 117 • 39 Normal Route 207 59 Nordend 274 TWO • GRAN PARADISO MASSIF 35 • 15-19 Aiguilles du Diable Traverse 118 40 Ober Gabelhorn 212 • 58a Normal Route to the Dufourspitze -
1 Tydzień = 5 X 4000 M Npm
1 tydzień = 5 x 4000 m npm Pomysł na tygodniowy wyjazd alpejski zapadł jeszcze w czerwcu. Głównym celem na 7 dni w Alpach dla mnie i Marcina stał się Weisshorn (4505 m). Szczyt trudny do zdobycia ze względu na wysokość i odległość podejścia z „bazy”, czyli wioski Randa zlokalizowanej przed słynnym ale nieco niższym Matterhornem. Pomysł zainteresował także szersze grono wspinaczy naszego KW. Jednak skład wykrystalizował się tuż przed terminem wyjazdu i ostatecznie do Randy udali się: Marcin Miczke, Maciej Przebitkowski. Radek Sołtykowski i ja – Jacek Wichłacz. Termin: 8 – 16.08.2012r. Czyli tzw. długi weekend. Już następnego dnia, po rozbiciu namiotu na campingu w Randzie udaliśmy się na wyjścia aklimatyzacyjne. Z braku miejsc w schronisku wyjście do Weisshornhutte musieliśmy przesunąć do soboty. Razem zatem - czyli w czwórkę - wjechaliśmy kolejką na Klein Matterhorn i tu nasze drogi nieoczekiwanie się rozeszły. Jak się potem okazało na 5 dni. Marcin i ja postanowiliśmy wejść na Roccia Nera (4075 m) i jak czas pozwoli na kolejny czterotysięcznik - Polluxa (4092 m). Maciej i Radek mieli pomysł aby wejść na coś lekkiego np. na Castora (4228 m) , przespać się dla lepszej aklimatyzacji w najbliższym schronisku Quintino Sella (3587 m.n.p.m.) i wrócić w tempie wypoczynkowo-spacerowym do Randy następnego dnia. Zgodnie z założeniami nasze aklimatyzacyjne wejścia dokonaliśmy na 2 wytyczone 4 - tysięczniki prawie bez chwili przerwy (nawet nie było czasu na zjedzenie drugiego śniadania). Ale skończyłyby się to o mało co „ kiblem” na stacji kolejki. Na jej ostatni zjazd zdążyliśmy 3 min. przed odjazdem w dół. O mały włos a aklimatyzacja Marcina i moja trwałaby o noc dłużej i to w warunkach dość ubogich. -
In Memoriam 115
IN MEMORIAM 115 • IN MEMORIAM CLAUDE WILSON 1860-1937 THE death of Claude Wilson within a few weeks of attaining his seventy-seventh birthday came as a terrible shock to his many friends. Few of us even knew that he was ill, but in the manner of his passing none can regret that there was no lingering illness. We can but quote his own words in Lord Conway's obituary: 'the best we can wish for those that we love is that they may be spared prolonged and hopeless ill health.' His brain remained clear up to the last twenty-four hours and he suffered no pain. The end occurred on October 31. With Claude Wilson's death an epoch of mountaineering comes to an end. He was of those who made guideless and Alpine history from Montenvers in the early 'nineties, of whom but Collie, Kesteven, Bradby, ~olly and Charles Pasteur still survive. That school, in which Mummery and Morse were perhaps the most prominent examples, was not composed of specialists. Its members had learnt their craft under the best Valais and Oberland guides; they were equally-proficient on rocks or on snow. It mattered little who was acting as leader in the ascent or last man in the descent. They were prepared to turn back if conditions or weather proved unfavourable. They took chances as all mountaineers are forced to do at times but no fatal accidents, no unfortunate incidents, marred that great page of Alpine history, a page not confined to Mont Blanc alone but distributed throughout the Western Alps.