WALKING GUIDE

VICTORIAN BRISTOL

A guide to Victorian buildings in the city

www.brunel200.com 2 Brunel 200: Victorian Bristol Brunel 200: Victorian Bristol 3

2006 marks the 200th anniversary of the birth of Isambard Kingdom Brunel, one of the most versatile, audacious and inspirational engineers of the nineteenth century.

Brunel 200 celebrates Brunel’s life, The guides are linked to the Bristol times and legacy with exhibitions, Legible City (BLC) way-finding learning programmes, publications, information system, which includes walks and trails, heritage and arts walking maps and on-street signage projects, competitions, debates, designed to improve people’s media programmes and talks in understanding and experience of Bristol, the South West and beyond. the city. The BLC walking maps are free of charge and are widely Bristol is home to some of Brunel’s available across the city. They can finest work including the original be found at tourist information Great Western Railway terminus at centres, visitor attractions, libraries, Temple Meads (now home to the hotel receptions, travel arrival British Empire and Commonwealth points and many other sites. Museum), the Clifton Suspension Bridge and the iron steamship ss See www.brunel200.com for Great Britain. full details of the Brunel 200 programme. Victorian Bristol is one of a series of three guides to Bristol produced as part of the Brunel 200 programme. Enjoy your exploration of The other guides in the series are: Victorian Bristol! • Brunel's Dockside • Brunel’s Clifton 4 Brunel 200: Victorian Bristol Brunel 200: Victorian Bristol 5

Victorian Bristol

Queen Victoria ascended to the British throne in 1837, the year that saw the launching in Bristol of Brunel’s innovative transatlantic steamship the ss Great Western.

During Victoria’s reign the city the city. The guide does not would go on to see the completion describe a particular route but of Brunel’s Great Western Railway focuses on the city centre districts 1 and its associated rail routes across of Temple, Old City, West End and the South West, the launch of St Michael’s Hill, all of which are Brunel’s propeller-driven, steam- marked on the BLC map. powered iron ship the ss Great The number 8 and 9 bus services, Britain and, following Brunel’s operated by First, run frequently death in 1859, the completion of between Bristol Temple Meads his magnificent Clifton Suspension station and the city centre and on Bridge, built as a tribute to him by to Clifton. Their routes are also his fellow engineers. marked on the BLC map along with The guide some of the stops for the Bristol City Sightseeing open-top tour bus, This leaflet provides a guide to which is in operation from Easter some of the architecture of to September. nineteenth-century Bristol that See www.bristolvisitor.co.uk for has survived into the twenty-first the open-top timetable. century. Although much dates from the late-Victorian period and therefore after Brunel’s death, it also includes buildings that he 1 The ss Great Western (private collection). 2 The ss Great Britain (ss Great Britain Trust, would have seen during his time in photograph by Mandy Reynolds). 2 6 Brunel 200: Victorian Bristol Brunel 200: Victorian Bristol 7

were experimenting in the most thought to be the first true railway effective and creative ways of using terminus, with trains and people THE iron, steel, glass, masonry and brick. all inhabiting the same integrated space beneath a single roof. The Temple Meads Station booking hall was at ground level and Victoria Street and passengers reached the platforms by climbing an internal WALK 3 It is fitting to begin the guide to staircase to the first floor, the track Victorian Bristol at the original coming in 15 feet above ground Bristol architects porches supported by subtly curved Great Western Railway (GWR) level on brick vaults. A beautiful columns, some topped with capitals station at Temple Gate (BLC map hammer-beam roof spans the Many of the most impressive carved in the form of a curled scroll reference P6). This was designed by 72 feet of what was once the buildings built or adapted in Bristol or acanthus leaves. Further carving Brunel and has an impressive three- passenger shed and is now used during the Victorian period were could be found in decorative storey entrance in Bath stone in a for conferences and exhibitions. the products of well-regarded, friezes, cornices and pediments. hybrid revival style reminiscent of The beams are largely decorative as locally based architectural practices The Gothic revival was in part a a Tudor mansion. It was completed most of the roof’s weight is actually such as the Paty family, Foster & reaction against classicism and in 1841, the year that the London- supported by the iron columns Wood, W B Gingell and Henry Crisp. harked back to the pointed arches Bristol route was opened, and is along the aisles. One wing of the Architects of the day drew upon a and vaulted stone ceilings first number of stylistic revivals rather seen in twelfth-century church than developing a modern style architecture. for the modern age. The most popular of these were the classical However, construction methods, and the Gothic. and the processing and distribution of materials had all advanced with The classical revival drew its the Industrial Revolution and inspiration from the elegant stone Victorian architects and engineers buildings of ancient Greece (480- 323 BC) and to those of the ancient Romans who had added domes, 3 Exterior of Bristol station showing the now- barrel vaults, arches and brickwork lost right-hand portal. Traffic originally entered to the traditional Greek style. the site via the left-hand portal then passed Classicism had become fashionable under the line to exit by the right (Bristol’s again during the eighteenth century Museums, Galleries and Archives). 4 The passenger shed at Bristol station, and continued to be popular into illustrated by J C Bourne, published 1846 the nineteenth. Buildings included (Bristol’s Museums, Galleries and Archives). 4 8 Brunel 200: Victorian Bristol Brunel 200: Victorian Bristol 9

Sir Charles Fox, had constructed On your way towards Temple Circus the roof at Paddington and was you will pass two old and currently also involved in construction of the disused railway station hotels: Crystal Palace. The station has a The Grosvenor (1875, S C Fripp) neo-Gothic exterior in pink stone and the George Railway Hotel with Bath stone dressings and a (c 1870). Victoria Street will lead red-brick interior. The chocolate you through Temple and on across and brown extension to the east the Bristol Bridge to the Old City. of the site dates from the 1930s. It was completed around 1872. It was badly bombed during World The guide Brunel’s Dockside will War Two but some original sections lead you west of the British Empire remain including the row of and Commonwealth Museum for a buildings between Counterslip and walk that includes the areas of Bath Street (shown as a short cul Redcliffe, Harbourside and Spike de sac on the map). Walking down Island. For now, turn right on Counterslip you can see the former 5 Temple Gate, walking in front of Tramways Generating Station the museum, and cross the road designed by W Curtis Green (1899), station façade was removed in 1878 On the opposite side of the station at the pedestrian crossing by which is built in a mixture of red to make room for an approach road. approach road are some Jacobean- Temple Circus, heading towards the style offices originally built for the brick and Bath stone. On the curved Brunel’s GWR station ceased to be Novotel Bristol Centre on the corner Bristol & Exeter Railway and corner of Bath Street is the former used as a rail terminus in 1965. It is of Victoria Street (BLC map designed by S C Fripp (completed Talbot Hotel (c 1873), which has an now home to the British Empire and reference P6). 1852). Work on the present Bristol attractive arched entrance, multi- Commonwealth Museum, which Temple Meads station, at the top coloured brickwork and a conical offers pre-booked guided tours of of the approach road, began in roof topped by a weather vane. the site that includes access to the 1865 and was completed in 1878. passenger shed, the cavernous This was conceived as a joint Old City vaults and the mock-Gothic station to serve the Bristol & Exeter grandeur of the GWR Boardroom Many of Bristol’s eighteenth and and Midland Railway companies. (see www.empiremuseum.co.uk/ nineteenth-century commercial and Its architect was Brunel’s colleague, exhibitions/bruneltours.htm legal offices were clustered along Sir Matthew Digby Wyatt, who had for details). Corn Street (BLC map reference M4). co-designed Paddington station. Today the area is known more for 5 Temple Meads station, designed by Digby The arched iron roof was designed its nightlife as a number of the Wyatt (photograph by Ian Blantern). by Francis Fox, whose father, buildings have been converted into 6 The Grosvenor (photograph by Ian Blantern). 6 10 Brunel 200: Victorian Bristol Brunel 200: Victorian Bristol 11

One hand shows the old Bristol time, which, with the coming of Brunel’s railway and the need to synchronise train schedules, was adjusted to London time, indicated by other hand, just over ten minutes ahead. Corn Street leads up to Broad Street. At 13-14 Broad Street is the former Bank of England branch building designed by Charles R Cockerell (completed 1847). It has 9 fluted columns and unadorned 7 Lloyds Bank on Corn Street (photograph 7 capitals in the Greek Doric style. by Ian Blantern). Cockerell was the Bank of England’s 8 The Exchange clock (photograph by restaurants and clubs. Lloyds Bank, commercial building on this street Ian Blantern). near to the Old Council House, was is the NatWest Bank, which was 9 The former Grand Hotel, now the Thistle (photograph by Ian Blantern). designed by W B Gingell and T R formerly the Liverpool, London and Lysaght and built between 1854 Globe Insurance building. It was official architect and at the same and 1857 in an extravagant designed by W B Gingell (1864) time as he was working on the Venetian style in Bath and Portland and its decorative details include Bristol project he had also been stone. It was originally the West of caryatids (columns sculptured into commissioned to design branches England and South Wales District female forms), firemen carrying for Liverpool and Manchester. Bank. The beautifully sculptured axes and helmets, and the figure On the other side of the street is frieze on its façade is by John Evan of Time holding an hour-glass. the former Grand Hotel, now the Thomas who worked on the Houses Thistle Bristol Hotel. It was Opposite Lloyds Bank is the of Parliament. On the ground flour designed by Foster & Wood and Exchange. This was originally a the sculptures depict the five main completed in 1869. It has an Italian meeting place for merchants, towns where the bank did business: Renaissance design reminiscent of designed by John Wood the Elder Newport, Bath, Bristol, Exeter and the buildings of Venice. The ground in the eighteenth century, and was Cardiff. On the first floor are female floor – which was originally converted into a corn exchange in figures representing Peace, Plenty, occupied by shops – projects out 1872. The clock was first installed Justice, Integrity and other to the street while the rest of the in 1822 and later given two minute- elements conducive to making building stands back. A little further hands, which can still be seen. money. Another impressive 8 down Broad Street on the opposite 12 Brunel 200: Victorian Bristol Brunel 200: Victorian Bristol 13

depicted in the mural are the printers Gutenberg and William Morris, the Spirit of Literature and a woman holding up a lamp and a mirror to represent Light and Truth. The mural is made from Carrara- Ware marble tiles and was designed by W J Neatby who worked for Doulton & Co. Edward Everard designed the typeface in which his name is written and the building itself was designed by Henry Williams. Behind the Exchange on Corn Street lie St Nicholas Markets and St 11 Nicholas Street. Here can be found the stone-fronted St Nicholas The red-and-yellow-bricked Old Fish and originally would have been 10 Chambers (Ponton and Gough, Market pub at 59-63 Baldwin Street set close to the water’s edge, as 1866) decorated with carved is housed in the former Bigwood’s its name suggests. It was built for side of the road is the former dragons, the Elephant pub (Henry fish merchants (1894) and was the breakaway Catholic Apostolic Guildhall, completed in 1846, which Masters, 1867), the Gothic Gresham designed by W B Gingell. Church founded by the Scottish was designed in the Gothic style Chambers (Ponton and Gough, evangelist Edward Irving but is To the west, Baldwin Street leads by Richard Shackleton Pope. The 1868) with its sculpted heads, and now a Roman Catholic church. in to Colston Avenue. This road was sculptures of leading Bristolians on the remains of the cast-iron Queen formed in 1892 when the northern the front are by John Evan Thomas. Victoria Fountain (1859). Also on section of St Augustine’s Reach – St Nicholas Street is the former Fish At the bottom of Broad Street is a a man-made channel dug in the Market (1873) by Pope and Son, beautiful Art Nouveau building from thirteenth century to divert the which has an extension on Baldwin 1900-01 belonging to the former River Frome – was filled in. One Street that was built in 1897. Edward Everard printing works. of the first Bristol churches to be Art Nouveau was characterised by completed during the Victorian 10 The Edward Everard printing works the use of flamboyant curves and (photograph by Ian Blantern). period was St Mary-on-the-Quay flowing lines, taking its inspiration 11 The Old Fish Market (photograph by on Colston Avenue, built in 1839 from nature but using manmade Ian Blantern). and designed by Richard Shackleton 12 St Mary-on-the-Quay (photograph by materials. The figures you can see Ian Blantern). Pope. It resembles a Greek temple 12 14 Brunel 200: Victorian Bristol Brunel 200: Victorian Bristol 15

As befits a major trading port, there sourced from different parts of the are a number of grand structures country. The Granary is one of the built to store merchandise along best remaining examples of Bristol the quays of the Floating Harbour. Byzantine, a style that combined Among the most exotic is The elements of Gothic, Moorish, North Granary (1869), on Welsh Back off Italian and Venetian design. the eastern end of Baldwin Street A variation on this style can be seen near the Premier Travel Inn (BLC in Colston Hall on Colston Street map reference M5). This was designed by Foster & Wood and designed by Ponton and Gough. completed in 1873 (BLC map It is ten storeys high with a reference K4). You can see other fine different window treatment for Victorian warehouses overlooking each floor, a battlemented roof, the Floating Harbour at Welsh Back, and multicoloured brick and stone. many of which have now been The railways made the converted into apartments. transportation of building materials More modest waterfront Victorian much easier, allowing for more structures include what is thought variety in colour as supplies were to be Bristol’s earliest transit shed, 14 now the Severnshed restaurant, on The Grove near Redcliffe Bridge Reach (BLC map reference K5). reference F3). The building was (BLC map reference K6). Built A more detailed description of the designed by Charles Dyer and around 1865, this is an iron-framed Harbourside area of the city can be completed in 1842 in a monumental, building that would originally have found in Brunel’s Dockside guide. neo-Corinthian style (the most been open-ended to allow the swift ornate classical form) with a giant unloading of goods headed for the St Michael’s Hill and portico and a pediment decorated warehouses or for transportation. West End with Minerva in a chariot driven by Later iron-framed transit sheds Apollo. Opposite is the Royal West include the 1894 building designed Crossing to the other side of the city of England Academy designed by Edward Gabriel that has been centre, at the junction of Queen’s by John Henry Hirst and Charles converted to house the Watershed Road and Whiteladies Road stand Underwood with an Italianate Media Centre on St Augustine’s the impressive Victoria Rooms, colonnaded façade. It was 13 The Granary at Welsh Back (photograph originally a public hall and political completed in 1857. Walking down by Ian Blantern). meeting-place and now owned by Queen’s Road, back in the direction 14 Severnshed restaurant (photograph by the University of Bristol (BLC map of the waterfront, you will pass a 13 Ian Blantern). 16 Brunel 200: Victorian Bristol Brunel 200: Victorian Bristol 17

1870s. The Great Hall was designed by Foster & Wood. The walls are of local red rubble with stone dressings. If you get the opportunity to head out towards the Clifton Downs, you will see another impressive school building from the same period. Clifton High School on Clifton Park Road was designed by Stuart Colman and opened in 1875 (BLC map reference C2). It is in red brick and an early example in Bristol of Queen Anne architecture, a slightly fanciful and flamboyant style of the later-

15 Victorian period. There are a number of beautiful Victorian villas, 17 number of shops dating from the by Sir Frank Wills (BLC map terraces and semi-detached houses Victorian period, a few of which reference G3). Baroque was the in Clifton, particularly around The From Bristol Grammar School, retain their original frontage. name given to a seventeenth- Promenade, and it is an area well returning to Queen’s Road, cross century style derived from worth exploring. See Brunel’s to Berkeley Square and follow the The restored façade of the former traditional classicism that used Clifton for a circular work around paths to Brandon Hill and Cabot City Museum and Library on the extravagant curves and shapes, the village and out to the Clifton Tower (BLC map reference G4). corner of University Road and and rich materials. Suspension Bridge. The tower was completed in 1898 Queen’s Road was inspired by the to commemorate the 1497 voyage Doge’s Palace in Venice. It was Taking a detour up University Road from Bristol to Newfoundland of designed by John Foster and you will pass the former museum’s the Genoese explorer and merchant Archibald Ponton (1866). The lecture theatre (Stuart Colman John Cabot. The tower was original structure was destroyed 1874), the Eastern Orthodox Church designed by William Venn Gough during the blitz and the façade (Henry Rising, 1888) and the end of who took his inspiration from a fronts a post-war building which Elmdale Road where there is a row now houses Browns restaurant. of Gothic villas from 1883. At the 15 Victoria Rooms (photograph by Ian Blantern). Next to this is the Bristol's Museum top of University Road is Bristol 16 Browns, the former City Museum and Library and Art Gallery (1899-1904) built in Grammar School. Founded in 1532 (photograph by Ian Blantern). Portland stone in a Baroque design it moved to this location in the 17 Cabot’s Tower on Brandon Hill (photograph 16 by Ian Blantern). 18 Brunel 200: Victorian Bristol Brunel 200: Victorian Bristol 19 tower in the Loire dating from the retains its impressive four-storey time of Cabot’s journey. The climb Greek revival façade, a style used up the narrow internal staircase will by Pope at St-Mary-on-the-Quay. reward you with magnificent views Brunel House was originally the across the city and beyond. Royal Western Hotel, which was planned as a stopping off point on From Brandon Hill you can walk the transatlantic route that linked down to St George’s Road via Paddington station to New York Brandon Steep. On the corner, at via Bristol. It became a Turkish bath the back of the Council House, you in 1855. will find Brunel House designed by Brunel in consultation with Richard Follow St George’s Road to Park Shackleton Pope (BLC map Street and walk down towards reference H5). The building was College Green and you will pass completed in 1839 and has been the former Royal Hotel – now the much altered since then but it Bristol Marriott Royal Hotel

19

(BLC map reference H5). It is built 18 Brunel House, the former Royal Western in limestone in the Italianate style Hotel (photograph by Ian Blantern). 19 Queen Victoria’s statue by College Green and was designed by W H Hawtin (photograph by Ian Blantern). in 1864. The statue of Queen Victoria in the turning circle outside is by Joseph Boehm. It dates from starting point of Brunel’s Clifton, 1888 and commemorates the a walk lasting approximately one queen’s 1887 Golden Jubilee. and half hours. Alternatively you The extension to the east of the site can walk down to Pero’s Bridge was built during renovations in the on the waterfront and pick up the early 1990s. route of Brunel’s Dockside. You will see more Victorian buildings on You have now had a glimpse of these tours along with many other some of the Victorian architecture sites of interest. in Bristol’s city centre. From College Green you can catch the number 8 We hope you enjoy exploring 18 bus to Clifton and the suggested Bristol. 20 Brunel 200: Victorian Bristol Brunel 200: Victorian Bristol 21

Timeline of Brunel in Victorian Bristol

Year Brunel in Bristol Other events in Bristol Year Brunel in Bristol Other events in Bristol

New Custom House opens. Election Foundation stone of new Guildhall laid. Founding of Crew’s Hole tar Launch of hull of the Great Western of Hon F H F Berkeley MP (Lib) who Launch of Great Britain at Bristol 1843 and creosote works. Stage coaches 1837 in Bristol (19 July). Work begins on campaigned for a secret ballot (held (19 July). Royal Western Hotel. seat til death in 1870). William West between Bristol and London opens Giant’s Cave passage. withdrawn (reinstated 1849).

Maiden voyage of Great Britain. Athenaeum and Bristol Stock Great Western crosses the Atlantic 1845 Work begins on new lock at South Exchange founded. Death of Bristol in 15 days from Avonmouth to New Great Western Cotton Works mill entrance of Bristol Docks. artist W J Müller. 1838 York (April). Work begins on Temple in operation. Foundation stone of Meads. Brunel answers criticisms of Victoria Rooms laid. broad gauge. Isambard III born. Bank of England building in Corn Great Western Steamship Company Street completed. Bristol County 1847 bankrupted. Court established. Jenny Lind sings in the city. Great Western Steamship Company builds the new Great Western St Mary-on-the-Quay completed. 1839 Dockyard and Engine Factory. Foundation stone for Chatterton New lock completed at Cumberland New Exchange market completed. Construction begins on Great Memorial laid. 1849 Basin, spanned by tubular swing Cholera epidemic. Britain. Royal Western Hotel opens. bridge.

Great Britain’s hull redesigned for Bristol Cathedral reopened after Iron bridge crossing the Avon near World’s first postal train runs along rail terminus destroyed by steam 1840 screw propeller. Opening of GWR restoration. Hall of Science opens in 1855 line from Bristol to Bath (31 Aug). Broadmead. the London-Bristol route. barge. Bristol Agricultural Society dissolved.

Bristol Temple Meads station Bill for constructing dock near Temporary Clifton bridge with completed. Full London-Bristol route Christ Church Clifton consecrated. mouth of Avon rejected in 1863 partially laid planking first crossed 1841 opened (30 June). Consulted by Amalgamation of Fripp & Fry and Parliament. Butler & Co (tar on 3 July. Merchant Venturers on Clifton Thomas soap companies. distillers) founded. Water Works scheme.

Avonmouth pier built for railway connection to Hotwells. Typhus Opening of Bristol to Taunton section Victoria Rooms completed. Major Opening of Clifton Suspension epidemic and summer drought. of Bristol & Exeter Railway (1 July). 1864 1842 exhibition at the Mechanics Bridge (8 Dec). Launch of Royal Sovereign, the Urges new measures to overcome Institute. largest iron sailing ship built in silting of Floating Harbour. port to date. 22 Brunel 200: Victorian Bristol Brunel 200: Victorian Bristol 23

Brunel 200 is a partnership initiative initiated and managed by the Bristol Cultural Development Partnership (BCDP – Arts Council England South West, Bristol City Council, Business West). South West activities are being developed in partnership with Culture South West. Brunel 200 is part of Science City Bristol.

Major funders:

Key sponsors:

Education sponsors and funders:

Brunel 200 partners:

Media and marketing partners:

Details of other supporters are on the Acknowledgements page of the website www.brunel200.com

Text by Melanie Kelly. With thanks to Marion Giles, Mark Pearson and Gillian Fearnyough for their help in compiling this guide. Additional material taken from Andrew Foyle’s Bristol published by Yale University Press in the Pevsner Architectural Guides series (New York and London, 2004).

Cover image credit: British Empire and Commonwealth Museum photograph by Ian Blantern. Designed by: Qube Design Associates Ltd Printed by: Doveton Press A guide to Victorian buildings in the city The Bristol Legible City walking maps are free of charge and are widely available across the city. They can be found at tourist information centres, visitor attractions, libraries, hotel receptions, travel arrival points and many other sites. The areas covered by this guide are marked here in orange on this scaled-down version of the map.