Goring (July 2019) • © VCH Oxfordshire • Intro
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VCH Oxfordshire • Texts in Progress • Goring (July 2019) • © VCH Oxfordshire • Intro. • p. 1 VCH Oxfordshire Texts in Progress Goring Introduction: Landscape, Settlement, and Buildings Goring parish church with Mill Cottage, as viewed from the former toll bridge to Streatley (Berks.) over the river Thames Situated by the Thames opposite the village of Streatley (Berks.), Goring village grew rapidly from the mid 19th century, its setting and improved communications attracting wealthy incomers who transformed its character.1 Its large ancient parish, perhaps the core of an Anglo-Saxon minster parochia and royal estate, encompassed the nearby riverside hamlets of Cleeve and Gatehampton to north and south, and extended eastwards into areas of more dispersed settlement at Goring Heath on the Chiltern hills, where a large tract of common heathland was enclosed in 1812. A small Augustinian nunnery founded at the parish church soon after 1100 continued until the Dissolution, and almshouses established in the village and at Goring Heath in the early 18th century remained active as charities in 2017. Following the opening of a toll bridge to Streatley in 1837 (replacing a ferry) and of a station on the Great Western Railway in 1840, the village became a fashionable riverside resort for the middle and upper classes, who built substantial new houses and established social and sporting clubs. The village’s expansion continued throughout the 20th century, when it 1 This account was written in 2017 and revised in 2019. VCH Oxfordshire • Texts in Progress • Goring (July 2019) • © VCH Oxfordshire • Intro. • p. 2 absorbed Cleeve entirely. Goring Heath, by contrast, largely maintained its rural character despite attracting some large houses, and in 1952 was joined with part of Whitchurch to form a separate civil parish. The parish of Goring c.1850. Source: K. Tiller and G. Darkes (eds), An Historical Atlas of Oxfordshire (ORS 67, 2010). LANDSCAPE, SETTLEMENT, AND BUILDINGS Parish Boundaries In 1878 Goring parish extended some 4¾ miles (c.7.5 km) from Goring village beside the Thames to Nuney Green on the Chiltern hills, covering 4,610 a. in all.2 Its boundaries may reflect those of a large late Anglo-Saxon estate subdivided before the Norman Conquest, designed to include both riverside farmland and upland woods and heath.3 The southern boundary with Whitchurch (partly described c.1012)4 was perambulated in 1805,5 when from the Thames by Hartslock wood it briefly followed part of the ancient ‘Tuddingway’,6 before zig-zagging along hedges uphill to Coombe End. From there the boundary became straighter across the former common heath (leaving Whitchurch’s common to the south), before veering southwards to include part of the scattered hamlet of Collins End. The short eastern boundary with Mapledurham principally followed a minor road heading north to Nuney Green, from where the long northern boundary with South Stoke turned west, first along woodland banks, and then across part of the former Woodcote heath near Greenmoor 2 OS Area Bk (1878); OHC, tithe map. 3 Above, vol. overview. 4 Sawyer S.927; Grundy, Saxon Oxon. 73–5; S.E. Kelly (ed.), Charters of Abingdon Abbey, II (2001), pp. 531−5; below, Whitchurch, landscape etc. 5 OHC, E1/M2/E/5. 6 Below (communics). VCH Oxfordshire • Texts in Progress • Goring (July 2019) • © VCH Oxfordshire • Intro. • p. 3 Hill, where an ancient cross was mentioned in 1810.7 Beyond there it ran downhill along open-field headlands to the Thames near South Stoke village. The western boundary with Streatley and Basildon (both Berks.) followed that of the shire along the river, bringing into Goring the greater part of Streatley mill, the whole of the bridge erected in 1837, and some small islands near there and at Cleeve.8 A ‘county cross’ formerly stood south of Streatley mill,9 and a large sarsen stone marked the parish and county boundary north of the bridge.10 Boundary changes in 1952 significantly reduced the parish, whose eastern half (2,108 a.) was combined with 729 a. from Whitchurch to form the new parish of Goring Heath (2,837 a.). A further 129 a. was lost to Woodcote parish (newly created from part of South Stoke), leaving Goring itself with 2,373 acres.11 Following minor adjustments in 1991 and 2003,12 Goring Heath was left with 2,827 a. (1,144 ha), and Goring with 2,375 a. (961 ha).13 Landscape Goring village lies in the Goring Gap, the name given to the narrowing of the Thames valley to a gorge-like passage through chalk hills (the Berkshire downs to the west and the Chiltern hills to the east).14 The place-names Goring and Gatehampton may refer to this feature, denoting ‘people of the gore (wedge of land)’ and ‘home farm by the gate or gap’, although suggested alternatives are ‘Gara’s people’ and ‘goat home farm’.15 The narrow valley floor (45 m. above OD), containing both Gatehampton and Goring village, is formed from river gravels and alluvium, although Cleeve (whose place-name means ‘cliff’) stands slightly higher at 55 m., on a chalk outcrop formerly quarried for lime and stone. To the north and east of the village the Chiltern scarp has light and free-draining chalk soils which were formerly cultivated as open fields, while the scarp itself is incised by short dry valleys, of which one gave its name to Elvendon (‘elves’ valley’), and another to Coombe (‘valley’). 7 OHC, Goring Heath enclo. award; ibid. E1/H/8. 8 Below (communics); econ. hist. (milling; fishing). Small islands downstream of the village were excluded. 9 VCH Berks. III, 511. 10 J. Westwood, ‘An Ancient Boundary-Marker of Oxfordshire County’, SOAG Bulletin 43 (1987), 35– 7. 11 Census, 1961. The ecclesiastical parish was unaffected: Goring Parish Mag. (Apr. 1952). 12 Berks., Bucks., Hants., Oxon., and Surrey (County Boundaries) Order 1991; South Oxon. (Parishes) Order 2000. 13 Census, 2011. 14 Sir A. Strahan, The Geology of the Thames Valley near Goring (1924); A. Morigi et al., The Thames through Time: The Archaeology of the Gravel Terraces of the Upper and Middle Thames: Early Prehistory: to 1500 BC (2011), 3, 10. 15 PN Oxon. I, 52, 55; M. Gelling, ‘Addenda and Corrigenda to the “The Place-Names of Oxfordshire”’, Oxoniensia 22 (1957), 110; E. Ekwall, The Concise Oxford Dictionary of English Place-Names (4th edn, 1960), 193, 201; V. Watts, The Cambridge Dictionary of English Place-Names (2004), 256. VCH Oxfordshire • Texts in Progress • Goring (July 2019) • © VCH Oxfordshire • Intro. • p. 4 Great Chalk Wood was formerly ‘Chalcore’, an Anglo-Saxon place-name meaning ‘chalk bank’. The rest of the former parish (including the whole of what is now Goring Heath) lies at 120–160 m. on a gently undulating plateau, where the chalk hills are capped both by clay and sand deposits and by gravels and flints. The former were important to Goring’s pottery, brick, and tile industries, while the latter were periodically quarried for road and building stone. Woodland is extensive, and small medieval parks existed at Elvendon and at Applehanger (near Beech Farm), while the wide expanse of Goring heath dominated the parish’s south-eastern part until 19th-century enclosure.16 The eponymous ‘elves’ valley’ at Elvendon Goring’s chalk geology meant that surface water was largely absent, and until the 20th century most inhabitants of Goring Heath obtained their water from scattered clay-lined ponds. Cray’s pond (recalling a local family) was so named by 1670,17 and others (such as Cheesemore and Furzemore) have names ultimately derived from Old English mere or ‘pond’, suggesting considerable antiquity.18 In 1805 the ponds were reportedly polluted by geese commoned on the heath, a problem presumably resolved by enclosure in 1812, when public access to seven ponds was maintained.19 Closer to the river at Cleeve, two springs ‘of a lactaceous colour’ were regarded as medicinal by the 17th century, and were still exploited in the 18th.20 From 1890 the Goring & Streatley District Gas & Water Co. pumped water from a deep well at Cleeve uphill to a reservoir by Icknield Road, from where it was piped by 16 Geol. Surv. Map 1:50000 (solid and drift), sheet 254 (1980 edn); OS Map 1:25000, sheet 171 (2009 edn); PN Oxon. I, 51−2; below, econ. hist. For ‘Chalcore’, see also M. Gelling and A. Cole, The Landscape of Place-Names (2000), 298, 308; below (settlement). Both topography and early spelling forms indicate that Elvendon is named from Old English denu ‘valley’, rather than dūn ‘hill’, pace PN Oxon. I, 52. For an association between ‘elf’ place-names and valleys, A. Hall, ‘Are There Any Elves in Anglo-Saxon Place-Names?’, Nomina 29 (2006), 61−80. 17 ‘Creyes pond’: OHC, E1/9/1D/12; cf. ibid. par. reg. transcript, s.v. Cray. 18 PN Oxon. II, 459; W. Barefield-Hutt, Hardwick (2010), 74. 19 Ibid. E1/M2/E/5; ibid. Goring Heath enclo. award. 20 R. Plot, The Natural History of Oxfordshire (1677), 48; below, social hist. (1500–1800). VCH Oxfordshire • Texts in Progress • Goring (July 2019) • © VCH Oxfordshire • Intro. • p. 5 gravity to customers in the village.21 Another reservoir was built at Woodcote in 1906, enabling the company (renamed the South Oxfordshire Water & Gas Co. in 1905) to extend its supply to surrounding settlements.22 River flooding on the lower ground has occasionally been destructive, as in 1894 when several houses were inundated and floodwater in the church lay 14 inches deep.23 Flood marks at Cleeve mill survive from 1711, the highest one recorded in 1809.24 Communications Roads, Bridges, and Ferries Goring lies at an early river crossing and at the intersection of several early long-distance routes.