MEMBERS’ GUIDEBOOK Silver Marten
2007 EDITION Rabbit Club
Curtis Van Leur, SMRC Secretary-Treasurer P.O. Box 238 So. St. Paul, MN 55075 (517) 423-5254 [email protected]
Table of Contents OFFICIAL GUIDE BOOK OF THE SILVER MARTEN RABBIT Dedication ...... 1 President’s Message ...... 2 Published by the Silver Marten Rabbit Club History of the Silver Marten ...... 3 Revised 2007 The Silver Marten ...... 4 From the Guide Book Committee: National ARBA Convention Winners ...... 5 National Silver Marten Specialty Show Winners ...... 6 This guide book was produced through the efforts of Judging and Raising Silver Martens ...... 7 many Silver Marten breeders across the United Selection of Silver Martens for Showing & Breeding ..... 8 States. We hope that you will find it to be a useful Silver Marten Color Genetics ...... 9 reference for raising your Silver Martens. Culling the Silver Marten ...... 11 Rabbits for Show ...... 13 We would like to thank all who contributed to this The Challenging Silver Marten ...... 14 guide book through articles and advetisements. The Housing & Health of Show Rabbits ...... 15
The Guide Book Committee Conditioning Silver Martens ...... 17 Tonna Thomas, Editor Tattooing ...... 19 Leslie Tucker The Four Silver Marten Varieites ...... 20 Larry Peralta Silver Marten Standard of Perfection ...... 22 Tex Thomas The Black Silver Marten ...... 24 The Blue Silver Marten ...... 24 The Chocolate Silver Marten ...... 25 The Sable Silver Marten ...... 25 Sound Advice ...... 26 Cover by: 4-H Project? ...... 30 Laurie Brodeur Hints to Beginners ...... 31 Show Etiquette ...... 32 Line Breeding ...... 33 Breeding Chart ...... 34 Disclaimer: Bunny First Aid ...... 35 Articles, statements and opinions Culling the Silver Marten ...... 35 plublished, may not neccessarily be those Raising Silver Martens....from a Youth Perspective ...... 36 of the SMRC and are soley the Silver Marten Constitution & By-Laws ...... 38 responsibilty of the authors. Silver Marten Breeders Listing ...... 49
THIS GUIDEBOOK IS DEDICATED TO THE MEMORY OF ELLSWORTH TIBBETTS June 23, 1923 - - July 24, 1996
Ellsworth Tibbetts was an active Silver Marten raiser and showman for 30 years. He won Best in Show at the ARBA National Convention in 1971 in Albuquerque, the first time the award was ever picked, with a Silver Marten. He followed this impressive win with a first and second runner up to Best in Show at the 1972 ARBA Convention in Tacoma, WA with a Florida White and a Silver Marten. A dedicated showman, Ellsworth was well known for his production of top quality Martens, which were always competitive on the national level. He showed at almost every ARBA Convention form 1970 until his passing, and never failed to be high in the placements. Ellsworth was almost never out of the top 10 in Silver Marten sweepstakes for over 20 years.
Stock from Ellsworth’s breeding program have been spread all across the United States, and can still be found in many successful show herds. He was especially helpful in getting new breeders started on the right foot. Youth held a soft spot and received “special deals” from Ellsworth, if they showed an interest in raising Silver Martens.
Ellsworth served as president of the Silver Marten Club, as well as Director for many years. He was a lifetime member of both the ARBA and the Silver Marten Club. Ellsworth loved to travel and show Martens. He was truly our ambassador of good will. When the Marten Club initiated it’s “Man of the Year” award, Ellsworth was one of the first recipients.
Ellsworth was a man who enjoyed life and his rabbits to their fullest. He has left us legacy of dedication and commitment to excellence in rabbit raising. Although his passing leaves a great sadness, his spirit will be with us wherever Silver Marten breeders gather.
Ellsworth Tibbets wins Best in Show at the 1971 ARBA Convention in Albuquerque with a black Silver Marten.
1 President’s Message
Welcome to the Silver Marten Rabbit Club webpage. Currently on yahoo, there is an on-line club members My name is Scott Rudolph, and I am going on my second only, email digest, the Yahoo list for Silver Martens which year as president of the club. We were established in you can join (membership verified) and enjoy, whether it 1927. This is the 80th year of the ARBA recognition and be for bragging rights on a huge win, or a nest full of acceptance of the Silver Marten breed. The distinctive potential winners! As you'll soon find out, the new markings of our breed in prime condition make it number friendships encountered are not only at shows but also on one on the show table. the net. There will be lots of people in this organization To those of you who are new to Silver Martens and/or that you will hear about, but may never put a face to it. We are not yet members of the Silver Marten Rabbit Club, I will try with this website to help everyone get acquainted would like to invite you to join us. And for all current as easy as possible. members, I want to challenge you to recruit as many new In closing, we all hope that the web page is useful to members as possible. When you sell an animal, try to you as a Silver Marten breeder, whether an old hand at it, recommend them joining. It is a small fee for this new or a newcomer. If there is anything that you would like to breeder. I encourage all current members to take on an see done differently, or changes made to make the search active roll in this club. You will find that the officers and for our breed any easier, please feel free to e-mail me with members are more than willing to offer you help with any suggestions. I look forward meeting all of you sometime. problems you may encounter, and ultimately, you will find Don’t forget to bookmark this web page as the that the friendly nature of other Marten breeders can bring upcoming shows and current sweepstakes awards are as much joy as our special animals themselves. updated frequently. In recent years past, our numbers at our national shows for our two not so popular varieties (chocolate and Scott Rudolph sable) have decreased and I would love to see more SMRC President support of those two. If you are interested in these varieties, e-mail me or any of the board members and I am 10/03/07 sure we would be glad to set you up with someone who raises them in your areas.
2 History of the Silver Marten Rabbit and Club by Jeff Jewett, ARBA Judge
Looking back and reviewing old guide books, standards I've been raising Silver Martens for about forty years. In of perfection, national convention catalogs and other that time, I have seen the style improve and change. When I magazines I put away in the late sixties, has shown me how started in the sixty's we saw that most of the animals were much the Silver Marten rabbit & breeders have changed, yet very flat. Just looking at photos of the Martens in the sixty's, in many ways has remained the same. seventy's and even in the 81-85 Standard of Perfection we I started raising Martens in the mid sixties and from that see what the type style was and where we as breeders can point I've met and known some of the finest people in the still be working on. I know in the last twenty five years the industry, (that is one thing that will never change). Marten club has put more points on type and that we have Coming out of a breeding of standard chinchillas and a improved. As I judge around the country and Canada, the black tan in 1922 a black sport (Silver Marten black) was area which we must still work on is body type. Of course, born. The chin breeders were working on improving the we must not forget about keeping quality color and black wavy ticking. After breeding the sports together and markings. In my opinion the body type still needs some finding they bred true, the Silver Marten was given their work. name in 1924. There have been many improvements since Since the early twenty's we have seen the development those early years. Breeders worked on development of the of several varieties. Through much hard work and ticking, cleaning up the marking, enriching of the color, and dedication of good breeders the club has approved three the changing of the type style. The first working standard additional varieties. First were chocolates and then blues and was developed in 1927. When I read about those early the last were sables. I really think that the Silver Marten Martens I found that they were a mid-sized animal. Does Club has done a great job of insuring the quality of the breed were between 8 ½ to 10 pounds and bucks were between 7 by not having too many varieties. Marten breeders still have and 8 pounds. By having few points on type and more on lots of work to do on improving the varieties before thinking color and markings we can see how this helped development of adding any additional ones. of our Martens today. The quality of color and beauty of the To secure the success of this breed, we all need to markings show off the tan pattern. continue to work together. Competition has always been the Some fifty years later in the late seventies and early best way to improve our rabbits. When you see three or eighties, we see that the Standard of Perfection shows that more breeders in an area the competition makes each one of we as breeders, have developed a very solid rabbit with the them work harder to improve their line. To continue this ideals of the original breeders. We have a strong base with may I suggest making sure the youth and 4-H clubs in your good color, balance of markings, with the most points placed area are given or sold quality animals. This will help on body type. Since those early years we see that the promote our breed and teach the future breeders of tomorrow breeders and the club members have improved the shape or what quality and beauty the Silver Marten has or should body type. Martens have always been described as a have. commercial type breed but we can see that more points have been placed on type for this to be true.
3 The Silver Marten by Tex Thomas, ARBA Judge
The Silver Marten first occurred as a mutation of the down the hair shaft. By letting the fur roll slowly back into Standard Chinchilla in the late 1920’s. As such, the type place on the sides the difference soon becomes readily described for the Marten falls into our general classification discernible. Cut severely for stray white hairs scattered over of commercial breeds, with 40 points assigned to type. the back, as this ruins the cleanliness of appearance which is Important features of type type include a medium length important in Martens. A Marten carrying scattered white body and good depth. Too many Silver Marten that cross the hairs down the back can not show good color. You will find judging table fail in their type. They are very long in overall a tendency in summer months and if a Marten has been in body structure which is usually accompanied by a very flat sunlight to show an overall dullness or off color to the coat. shoulder and a top line arch failing to start at the nape of the This too must be cut severely for color. neck, as it should. The entire top line shows flatness instead Finally, we have the markings, which carries 13 points, of the rise and depth that is essential for a good side profile. and are probably the cause of more bad judging of Silver With this flatness comes a lack of depth over the hips, flat Martens than any other feature in the standard. Too many unfilled loins, and a protrusion of the hip bones instead of a times judges try to place Martens like a class of Tans instead rounded appearance for good type. Silver Martens are also of first basing the evaluation of type, then color, and then fur. very inclined to get bulky at the shoulders and carry equal Martens are a patterned breed, and as such, any Martens on width from shoulders through to the hips. This is a severe the table is going to carry the 6 markings described in the fault should be dealt with as such. Remember it is easy to get standard. The only problem is evaluating the sharpness of width of hip but you must not sacrifice taper, or most these markings. importantly depth of body, to achieve width. If a Marten Belly color should be white over a slate undercolor. does not display good type it is not deserving of a high Animals failing to show this slate undercolor will usually fail placement regardless of the fur, color, or marking features it in depth of color on top and are more inclined to have dirty may possess. One more suggestion on type, always check the nostrils and scattered white hairs over the back. The triangle front toenails of Martens very carefully for white toenails, should not execed 2 1/2 inches in length and point out. Eye especially the blue variety. They do have an inclination to circles are to be balanced, distinct, and the same size. Nostril throw white toe nails and most of the time it will be found on is to be white, and confined to the nostril only. Many one of the three middle toes of the front feet. Martens tend to show a butterfly of mealiness about the Fur on the Silver Marten carries 20 points and is to nostril. This is very undesirable and is usually accompanied conform to the ARBA normal fur standard. The special by very weak body color and a lot of scattered white hairs features of the Marten coat is a very polished, almost Satin over the back. sheen to the fur, much as carried by the Tan and Havana. Silvering carries only 4 points but oftentimes judges are Most Marten coats are on the short side of the commercial making this one marking worth fifty points - - a very bad fur length. As such, the usually display an extremely sharp mistake. The silvering is to be tipped hairs, (not white all the fly back to the coat, while still retaining the good undercoat way to the bass) evenly distributed up the sides, and distinct density. A primed Marten shows extremely well in normal in its features. Silvering should not run up on the back of a fur classes, especially when evaluated against the fur Marten and the animal should be faulted if this occurs. standard for good texture, balance, and condition. Markings should be the final consideration in the Color carries 22 points and shares almost equal value to evaluation of a Marten. Strive for a sharpness and distinction the fur in judging a class of Martens. As noted earlier all 4 within the markings, which will show off the other features. varieties should carry a very sharp luster to indicate primed As you can see fur, color and condition on a Silver pelt and quality of the pelt. It is important that the color of Marten amount to 47 points. In good competition your blacks, blues and chocolates be as dark in surface color as winners must be primed out animals, but with 40 points on possible and the color to run as far as possible down the hair type we must also keep balance constantly in mind. As with shaft. Sables must show a graduation of coloration from its any good show animal step back and look at the overall points, to the saddle, and to the sides, without any noticeable prospective of the animal. If it looks pretty to you and the barring or blotches in the color. Silver Martens are inclined people standing across the table, you have probably have a to show white spots in the colored portions of the pelt which good Silver Marten. is a disqualification. These white spots are most frequently found over the back, shoulder, and in the lower sides among the silvering. By stoking the side fur you will be able to tell the difference in white hairs and the silver ticking. The white hairs will be white all the way to the base of the hair shaft, while the silver ticked hair will only be white about half way
4 NATIONAL ARBA CONVENTION WINNERS
YEAR BOB VARIETY BOSB VARIETY LOCATION 1948 Hugh Bower Black Hugh Bower Black Atalanta, GA 1949 1950 Jay Magness Black Jay Magness Black Kansas City, KS 1951 Don Behnken Black Aaron Schorf Springfield, IL 1952 Portland, OR 1953 Amarillo, TX 1954 York, PA 1955 Don Gilbert Black Frank Muffler Black Columbus, OH 1956 Frank Bares Black Halendi Viking Black St. Paul, MN 1957 Halendi Viking Blue Hugh Bowers Black Little Rock, AR 1958 L & W Rabbitry Blue Hugh Bowers Black Springfield, IL 1959 Frank Pandino Black Mrs. J. Weaver Black Syracuse, NY 1960 Halendi Viking Black Jim Shortland Blue Ft. Wroth, TX 1961 Strathmans Black Frank Becicka Louisville, KY 1962 Lou Slavens Black Robert Hill Black Tampa, FL 1963 Ben Gregory Black Sutton’s Rabbitry Black Sedalia, MO 1964 Hugh Bowers Black John Bueler Black Springfield, IL 1965 Don Lovejoy Black Pomona, CA 1966 Art Miekel Black George Long Black Louisville, KY 1967 T.H. Rabbitry Blue Art Mickel Black Syracuse, NY 1968 Dale Wilcox Bob Kahler Pueblo, CO 1969 Karen McDonald Black Ricky Haugh Blue Calgary, Canada 1970 Y City Black Dieter Metzig Black Syracuse, NY 1971* Ellsworth Tibbetts Black Ford Rabbitry Black Alburquerque, NM 1972 Ellsworth Tibbetts Black Leonard Elsnor Black Tacomo, WA 1973 Tex Thomas Black Hugh Bowers Black Detroit 1974** Tex Thomas Black Tex Thomas Black Ventura, CA 1975 Tex Thomas Black Tex Thomas Black Milwaukee, WI 1976 Tex Thomas Black Tex Thomas Black York, PA 1977 Jim Lemon Black Jim Hansard Black Houston, TX 1978 Karen Guse Black Tex Thomas Black Saginaw, WI 1979 Tex Thomas Black Tex Thomas Chocolate Tucson, AZ 1980 Tex Thomas Black Ellsworth Tibbetts Black Milwaukee, WI 1981 Tex Thomas Black Tex Thomas Black Syracuse 1982 Tex Thomas Black Tex Thomas Chocolate Seattle, WA 1983* Tex Thomas Black Tex Thomas Black Colorado Sprs, CO 1984 Tex Thomas Blue Tex Thomas Blue Orlando, FL 1985 Tex Thomas Black Tex Thomas Black Houston, TX 1986** Tex Thomas Black Tex Thomas Blue Columbus, OH 1987 Tex Thomas Black Sharon Webb Black Portland, OR 1988 Don Dudley Black Tex Thomas Black Madison, WI 1989 Tex Thomas Black Tex Thomas Blue Tulsa, OK 1990** Tex Thomas Black Scott Helmke Black Tampa, FL 1991 Tex Thomas Black Tex Thomas Black Pomona, CA 1992 Tex Thomas Black Ron Riddle Black Columbus, OH 1993 Tex Thomas Black Robert Fowlkes Black Pullaup, WA 1994 Tex Thomas Black Gary & John Grimm Black Tulsa, OK 1995 Don Dudley Black Tex Thomas Black Louisville, KY 1996* Tex Thomas Blue Tex Thomas Black Peoria, IL 1997 Ron Riddle Black Terry Fender Black Madison, WI 1998 Tex Thomas Blue Sharon Webb Black Portland, OR 1999 Tex Thomas Black Ron Riddle Black Louisville, KY 2000 Tex Thomas Black Tex Thomas Black Columbus, OH 2001 Tex Thomas Blue Larry & Rita Peralta Black San Diego, CA 2002 Tex Thomas Black Connie Burant Black Peoria, IL 2003 Tex Thomas Black Melissa Carlson Blue Wichita, KS 2004 Ron Riddle Blue Tex Thomas Black Providence, RI 2005 Connie Burant Black Tex Thomas Blue Indianapolis, IN 2006 Tex Thomas Black Tex Thomas Blue Ft. Worth, TX 2007 Tex Thomas Black Ron Riddle Blue Grand Rapids, MI 2008 Louisville, KY 2009 San Diego, CA 2010 2011 * Best in Show ** Best 4 Class
5 NATIONAL SILVER MARTEN SPECIALTY SHOW WINNERS
YEAR BOB VARIETY BOSB VARIETY LOCATION
1956 Halendi Viking Blue Hugh Bowers Black Van Wert, OH 1957 Halendi Viking Black Hugh Bowers Blue Grass, IA 1958 1959 1960 Jim Shortland Bob Strathman Owensville, OH 1961 Jim Butler Black Pinecrest Rabbitry Black Dallas, TX 1962 Halendi Viking Halendi Viking Blue Grass, IA 1963 1964 1965 1966 1967 Giles Black Hugh Bowers Blue Knoxville, TN 1968 Hugh Bowers Black Hugh Bowers Black Kankakee 1969 Hugh Bowers Black James Jardine Chocolate Zanesville, OH 1970 1971 Ford’s Rabbitry Blue Hugh Bowers Blue Hutchinson, KS 1972 cancelled at Maryland 1973 1974 Dick Vogel Black Dick Vogel Chocolate Grants Pass, OR 1975 Hugh Bowers Black Tex Thomas Black Detroit, MI 1976 Ellsworth Tibbetts Black Tex Thomas Chocolate Owantana, MN 1977 Ted Kozicki Blue Ellsworth Tibbetts Blue El Dorado, KS 1978 Rod Spence Black Ellsworth Tibbetts Blue Gatesville, TX 1979 Tex Thomas Black Hugh Bowers Black Adrian, MI 1980 Danny HIcks Black Ron Griggi Black Santa Rosa, CA 1981 Tex Thomas Chocolate Tex Thomas Black Terra Houte, IN 1982 Tex Thomas Black Tex Thomas Black Gadsen, AL 1983 Keith Miller Black John Windmuller Black Fremont, OH 1984 Bar H Rabbitry Black Bar H Rabbitry Black Amarillo, TX 1985 Ralph Grimm Black Ralph Grimm Black Van Wert, OH 1986 Terry Fender Black Terry Fender Black Zaneville, OH 1987 Tex Thomas Black Ellsworth Tibbetts Black Memphis, TN 1988 1989 Ellsworth Tibbetts Black Ellsworth Tibbetts Black Albuquerque, NM 1990 Randy Shumaker Black Terry Fender Blue Van Wert, OH 1991 Tex Thomas Black Tex Thomas Black Hutchinson, KS 1992 J.L. Dino Black Ron Riddle Blue Baton Rouge, LA 1993 Tex Thomas Black Ron Riddle Blue Jefferson, WI 1994 Ellsworth Tibbetts Black John & Gary Grimm Black Springfield, NE 1995 Tex Thomas Blue Tex Thomas Black Connersville, IN 1996 Tex Thomas Black Tex Thomas Black Baton Rouge, LA 1997 Karna Coffman Black None shown Hutchinson, MN 1998 Larry & Rita Peralta Black Don Waters Black Reno, NV 1999 Tex Thomas Blue Tex Thomas Chocolate Cedar Rapids, IA 2000 Tex Thomas Blue Tex Thomas Black Hutington, IN 2001 Melinda Wingate Black Larry & Rita Peralta Blue Topsfield, MA 2002 Tex Thomas Black Tex Thomas Black Huntington, IN 2003 Sharon Webb Black Sharon Webb Black Stockton. CA 2004 Tex Thomas Black Larry & Rita Peralta Black Jefferson, WI 2005 Laurie Brodeur Black Laurie Brodeur Black Topsfield, MA 2006 Tex Thomas Blue Ron Riddle Blue Columbus, OH 2007 Ron Riddle Black Jim Miller Blue Dodgeville, WI 2008 Stockton, CA 2009 2010 2011 2012
6 Judging and Raising Silver Marten Rabbits by Don Matthews, ARBA Judge
I have been judging rabbits since February of 1977. I In the 70's and early 80's my wife and I raised a lot of am a past President of the National Silver Marten Rabbit Silver Martens in 3 varieties Black, Blue and Chocolate. I Club. I can tell you that a Silver Marten with good type and personally appreciate the Sable variety, but I lacked the a great finished coat of fur is one of the most beautiful patience to breed this variety. We had Chocolates as well as rabbits I have ever seen. Condition is only worth 5 points Blues and many Blacks that won several Best of Breeds now if you split this to 2 1/2 points on flesh condition and 2 and 1/2 points on condition of coat that doesn't mean much in a Best of Shows. In my opinion I really feel Blacks are the total of 100 points. variety that are more easily finished. Maybe this is due to On the other hand some of the worst looking rabbits the fact in most areas Blacks have a much larger base to I've seen have been Silver Martens with poor type, no flesh breed to. In breeding, I always bred Blacks to Blue and or meat along with harsh textured coats and poor quality Chocolates but I never kept Black offspring our of these fur. matings as this is sure way to have mealiness in the heads The Standard indicates two main points under general and poor color. type... Medium body type with good depth and a body Perhaps the most important fact for you breeders of showing roundness and full fleshed meaning a rabbit that Silver Martens or for that matter any breed is honesty. The has meat on its carcass. When you look at this there are 42 popular breeds of rabbits that are shown usually have large 1/2 points going towards type and flesh condition so if you numbers of rabbits and are made up of people who seem to do not have this basic structure you do not have a Silver genuinely care about each others company. The focus of Marten rabbit that will win no matter how good the color the fellowship is competition with the rabbits of individuals and fur! breeding programs and the treasure of time shared with a On the other hand fur, color and markings total 55 mutual respect and joy of being with those breeders. I feel it points and 2 1/2 for condition so this far exceeds the 42 1/2 is best to enter rabbits in their true and correct age classes points on type. Unfortunately for the wonderful breed, and sell only rabbits you would keep for your breeding many judges forget the 13 points for markings and so it gets program to prospective new breeders. You can be down to a 50/50 rabbit as long as they all look like Silver successful in your breeding program and do well at the Martens. I would guess that better than 50% of the Silver shows with good stiff competition and you will not be Martens I see have very harsh textured coats that are open without sales of good breeding prospects. or lack density and fail in depth of color or the fur shaft. Now getting back to judging Silver Martens, this can The depth of color is very important as this will help be a very exhilarating experience when the quality is great, improve the surface color. A finished Silver especially at National Shows where the tables are filled Marten coat is sometimes very hard to attain and hold for a with the best of the best from the various breeders and their length of time. This must bred into the line for this good breeding programs. It's a challenge any judge especially this quality. Cleanliness of color is very important and flat judge cherishes to have a class deep in quality of all four tipped white fur over the back and mealiness of the head are varieties. very undesirable and distract from the appearance of the rabbit. We are talking a combined 55 points here. As a breeder you must strive to attain the best possible coats, color and clean markings.
7 Selection of Silver Martens for Showing & Breeding By Terry Fender, ARBA Judge
Once one has invested in quality breeding stock, sound Now lets talk about the icing on the cake – condition. While selection techniques are a must to become competitive on the we can't always expect a Marten to be as "hard" as a show table. Many breeders have found it easy to buy show Californian or New Zealand, we certainly want it to be as winning stock but soon discover it is another story smooth and firm as possible. A well finished, shiny coat is completely when they begin to show what they raise. the finishing touch. When culling for show, the first thing I look for is type To summarize, when selecting a Marten for show, we in a young Marten. If the rabbit is slightly narrow or flat want an animal exhibiting good depth of body, hindquarters over the shoulders at a young age, I'll give them the benefit. slightly wider than shoulders for a mild taper, good deep Development may eliminate this fault. However, should the color showing high luster, well conditioned coat, clean and rabbit be flat over the hips or undercut, this condition is balanced markings, and flesh which is smooth and firm. seldom outgrown. These rabbits are usually culled rather When selecting breeding stock, we must remember to quickly. mate the buck and doe that compliments one another. While In the early stages I am not overly concerned with color we would always like to find those 2 perfect animals to breed and fur. I've always felt that the animal must have decent together, in reality there is no "perfect" rabbit. An example body type to begin with, while fur and color can come later of complimenting one another would be – a doe showing as the rabbit develops. good depth of body but narrow shoulders is bred to a buck As the animal matures into a showable junior, good fur with good width of shoulders but lacking some depth. Do and color should be evident. Many times these two qualities not breed 2 animals exhibiting the same fault if at all go hand in hand. A rabbit that is not in good fur condition possible. In theory each animal's strengths and weaknesses oftentimes does not carry the good, deep color and high should be balanced. But I must admit that oftentimes my luster that we associate with the Silver Marten. Animals winning doe failed to produce a winner herself, while her who refuse to come into condition should be culled. sister who did nothing outstanding on the show table instead Good, clean markings can be somewhat difficult to produced the next BOB winner. Breeding rabbits in not an determine in the very young. The markings can appear exact science. mealy or indistinct until the animal's baby coat is shed away. Once we've achieved the ideal Marten we desire, the The importance of markings must be kept in perspective. challenge now becomes to win with it on the show table. While markings are the feature that makes the Marten stand Even though we know what we consider the "ideal" Marten, out over the other "shiny" colored breeds, one must we still must sometimes keep a few of the "condition" and remember that they total only 13 out of 100 points in the "body" rabbits around due to the various judging styles we Standard. Type, color, and fur must be considered first and encounter. foremost. While winning BOB is always rewarding, I've found it Regarding marking faults, some of the more common especially so by doing it with a chocolate or sable. It is are mealy nostrils and eye circles and blunt triangles. While indeed a rewarding challenge to get these 2 varieties up to we may think of stray white hairs as a marking fault, it is the same caliber as the blacks and blues. And once we get actually listed in the Standard as a color fault. Remember, this quality, the judge then needs to be able to acknowledge color is worth 22 points. While we cannot deduct all 22 color this. points for stray white hairs, it can still be a sizeable I am glad you have decided to raise the silver ticked deduction if the condition is severe enough. beauty, the Silver Marten. I'm sure you will find this a most rewarding breed. I know I have.
2717 Sharpsville Road Lynchburg, Ohio 45142 (937) 364-2133 Silver Martens & Californians
8 Silver Marten Color Genetics by Lesslie Tucker, ARBA Registrar
Silver Marten rabbits were developed from black version of chocolate. Because lilac is not a recognized "sports" found in Standard Chinchilla rabbit litters during the variety in Silver Martens, many breeders prefer to keep early 1920's. When crossed together, these "sports" bred chocolate lines separate from the blue lines in their breeding true - black rabbits with silver markings, including a triangle programs. on the neck, eyecircles, and a few silver-tipped guard hairs Sables have a much different genetic pattern than the along the flanks. This new breed of rabbit was first named others discussed above. The gene controlling the sable Silver Marten in 1924. There are now 4 varieties of Silver pattern is usually called the C gene, or Color and shading Marten recognized by the American Rabbit Breeders gene, and determines the amount of color found in the hair Association; black, blue, chocolate and sable. shafts. However, rather than just two possibilities, there are 5 The differences between these 4 varieties are determined possible versions of the C genes. Each individual can still by the genetic makeup on 3 different gene locations. The only have two genes, one from each parent, but there are first of these genes is usually known as the B gene in the more types of this gene. The other factor to remember in standard genetic guides. The B gene determines whether the dealing with the C gene is that it is most often a gradation of coat color is Black or brown (chocolate in Silver Martens). color, rather than the complete dominant or recessive factors The black color gene, represented "B", is dominant over the seen in the B gene and D gene combinations. recessive chocolate color gene, represented "b". Because it is The most dominant, the "C", or full color gene, is never a complete dominance, just one B gene in the pair (each seen in Silver Martens, as this full color has a red or yellow individual rabbit will have two of each gene - one inherited color, and is seen in Tans or Otters, which have colored from each parent) will cause the rabbit to be black. So a markings, rather than the silver seen in Silver Martens. The rabbit has to have a double recessive, a "b" from each parent, next step down in the C scale of genes is called the c-chd (or or "bb", in order to be chocolate. dark chinchilla) gene. This "c-chd" gene is found in the A black rabbit with a chocolate parent will always carry black, chocolate and blue varieties of Silver Martens and the chocolate "b" gene from the chocolate parent. This rabbit, simply removes the red or yellow factor from the coat and with the genetic code of "Bb", is black because of the gives us the normal silver markings instead. dominant "B", but will pass on the chocolate gene "b" to The third and fourth genes in the C gene scale give rise 50% of its offspring. By breeding a black rabbit with a to the Sable Silver Martens. The gene giving the third most chocolate parent to a chocolate rabbit, an average of 50% of intensity of color is called the c-chl (or light chinchilla) gene. the litters will be chocolates and 50% of the litters will be If a rabbit has two "c-chl" genes, one from each parent, it blacks, though these black offspring will also carry the will be a very dark sable color, like the seal variety seen in chocolate gene. some other breeds. The fourth amount of color intensity out Of course this 50-50 ratio will not be seen in each litter, of the five levels of the C gene is called the c-h (or but would be the average over a lifetime of such crosses, as himalayan) gene. Two "c-h" genes, one from each parent, each of the offspring receives the "B" or "b" gene from the result in a himalayan marked rabbit, as seen in the parent at random. One litter from the same two parents might Himalayans, Californians, or pointed white varieties of be mostly black kits, while the next litter might have mostly rabbits. However, if a rabbit inherits a "c-chl" gene from one chocolate ones. A black rabbit might also carry the "b" gene parent and a "c-h" gene from the other parent, a true sable from a grandparent, a great-grandparent, or from a chocolate color will result. That is why breeding two nicely colored rabbit even further back, that is no longer even shown on the sables can result in three different colored offspring; pedigree. The only way to tell for sure if a black rabbit approximately 50% correctly colored sables, 25% dark carries a gene for the chocolate color is to breed to a sables (or seals) and 25% pointed white. chocolate (or one with a chocolate parent) and see if any Note: The most recessive gene on the C scale, known as offspring are chocolate. However, it might take more than the "c" gene, results in no color at all on the rabbit, so that a one such breeding to be sure, just because the first litter double "cc" gives an albino or red-eyed white rabbit. There is might happen to be all black. But once a black rabbit no pigment produced anywhere on the rabbit, including the produces a chocolate offspring, it is 100% certain that it does eyes. There is less pigment produced in the eyes of the sable carry the "b" gene for chocolates. Silver Martens than in the other varieties, which is why there The difference between black and blue rabbits is similar, is a ruby cast to the eye of the sables. but on another gene, usually known as the D gene, which The sable Silver Martens normally carry the black (B) determines whether the color is Dense or dilute. Black is a gene and the dense (D) gene even though they have less dense color, "D", and its dilute version "d" is blue. Just like pigment, which gives them the shaded coloring. Crossing the Black/chocolate mechanism, the "D" gene is completely other varieties into the sable lines could result in a poor dominant over the "d" gene, so a pair of dilute genes, "dd", color, with poor shading contrast, if the rabbit was a one from each parent, is necessary for the rabbit to be a blue. chocolate colored sable and would result in a smoke pearl Also, if a black rabbit has a blue parent it will carry a "d" color (an unrecognized variety) if the rabbit was a blue, as gene, which will be passed on to approximately 50% of its smoke pearl is the dilute of the recognized sable. Therefore offspring. And if a rabbit is chocolate, "bb" and also is a most breeders do not breed other colors into their sable lines. dilute, "dd", it will be a lilac rabbit, because lilac is a dilute
9 These are the basic factors which are involved in breeding for the various varieties of Silver Marten rabbits. However, there are other modifying factors also, such as depth of color, lightness or darkness of a particular color, amount of undercolor, etc., which have more complex mechanisms. It is an advantage for breeders to understand these basics, so they can better focus their breeding programs and obtain the desired results without putting time and energy into crosses which will not further their goals. With a good awareness of what is involved in breeding for specific Silver Marten varieties, breeders can increase their chances of success, and have fewer surprises.
Hill’s Hutch June Hill
PO Box 131 West Buxton, ME 04093 (207) 727-3408 [email protected]
Raising All Varieties of Silver Martens
10 Culling Silver Marten by Tex Thomas, ARBA Judge
Probably no one action that you take as a rabbit breeder The culling emphasis switched now from must have fur is going to affect the outcome and quality of your show herd to culling for good dark deep color and better type. With more that your ability or inability to properly cull. Without these two features in mind I developed a system of this ability you are going to have to raise all your youngsters markingeach weaned rabbit so he could be evaluated at up to 6 months of age and have some poor old judge do the various stages of growth. Under this system color became the culling for you. In the meantime you have poured a lot of next most constant factor as you can spot good clean color as feed and cage space into raising and keeping a mediocre young as one month of age, but the type features are still animal that is now too large to even use as a fryer. The going to change on you depending upon the stage of sooner you can spot the weak animals in a litter the better off development and within the individual strain of rabbits. Type you will be in overall quality of your rabbits, feed, cage to me is the hardest thing to set as constant in any breed. To space, time, and the openings necessary to maintain your evaluate these qualities a system of X’s and +’s was production so there is a continuous flow of good young developed. Each animal when weaned gets a piece of juniors to replace and replenish your show herd. While there masking tape about 2 inches square placed on it’s feeder to are many methods to accomplish this end, I will try to mark these evaluations. On this tag is marked how you explain the system that I use and let you decide what would would place the rabbit within the litter as far as how you feel be applicable for your operation. the animal will grow out. If a liter of 7 was weaned the best In dealing with Silver Martens, we have three primary rabbit. In that litter would be marked on the card as being areas of concern: Type, Color and Fur. (True there are 13 1/7. The remainder of the litter would be 2/7, 3/7 on down to points on markings, but I never breed or cull a Marten based 7/7 being the weakest animal in the litter. Very seldom on markings, They are a patterned animal and they will all be would the bottom one third of the litter be kept. Most of either selfs or Marten marked animals in a litter. The these are going to be of such quality of type or color that mealiness so many people cut as markings are actually color they can be immediately seen as having no future in any faults). Taking these 3 primary areas, the first thing I tried to breeding program. You must be unmerciful, cull these do with my breeding program was reduce the number of animals immediately as all they are doing is taking up cage variables that I was dealing with. This necessitated taking space a good rabbit could be occupying. Now in addition to one of the 3 area of type, fur or color and establishing it as a the litter ranking, mark the animal on how closely you feel constant. By establishing one area as a constant, you have that this rabbit comes to the Standard of Perfection. To do reduced your areas to cull from to two, and puts you back on this I use a system of XXX, XX and X with +, ++, +++ to the footing to compete with the “White Rabbits” for best in indicate the areas between X’s. The best a rabbit can rank is show, since they are only concentrating on culling and XXX. This is an animal that is definitely going to have breeding for type and fur. I chose early in my breeding excellent color with no mealiness or white hairs showing program to establish fur as my constant. Attaining fur as a over the back or on the face and has excellent body type and constant is a product of culling unmercifully for this quality good firmness of flesh. The next highest evaluating would be over a five year period. (Nothing in genetics comes quickly). XX+++. This would be reserved for an animal which is I knew the type of fur I wanted on my Silver Martens and nearly as good but would have one small area that it is anything not having these fur qualities at 5 months of age lacking, perhaps just a couple of stray hairs, etc.The next were automatically culled regardless of the good type and rankings in descending order would be XX++, XX+, XX, color they might posses. The lines that were throwing the fur X+++, X++, X+, etc. Generally speaking, no animal rating that had ability to moult very quickly were line bred. A slight less than an XX should ever make the show herd. There will concession to density was made to get the other 3 features be some exceptions and I usually found it to come from an that I considered paramount to having a good show coat on a animal that has been off feed prior to being weaned and just Marten. The reason being that extremely good density on a doesn’t have the good feel a youngster should have to be coat does not hold its condition as long when you travel with kept in a breeding herd. You will occasionally come across your rabbits and you tend to loose some texture and a lot of animals which are good in all respects except they have a sheen when you breed for density. After 5 years I began to vary glaring single fault in either type or color. This could be obtain the constant type of fur that I was desiring, and was at reflected in a very weak loin or lack of lower hindquarters as a point where I felt comfortable that most of any litter I an example. These animals are assigned a - sign after the X weaned were going to have what I would call good fur a 5 and + evaluation. Remember your X evaluation of littermates months of age. The same cull guidelines were maintained in can’t have your 5th place animal evaluated above your 4th place, that being any animal not having a quality coat by 5 place as compared within the litter. The advantage of these months was automatically culled. By having established this two systems combined is you have an evaluation of the fur constant I could turn my breeding program to mastering rabbit against the standard so you can spot the differences in type and color. the grow pattern of individual strains and you have a chance to look back and see if you really can pick out the best rabbit in a litter by checking the ranking in the litter evaluation.
11 Being a 1/7 rabbit is no particular advantage if the X best ranked rabbits being X+++ rabbits or ranked 6/7 in the evaluation of the same rabbit is only XX-. It means you litter. If that happens you have to look at how you are probably have an extremely weak litter and need to look at evaluating your babies when you weaned them. your breeding combination next generation. It takes an Watch very closely for rabbits that are in the top excellent litter to produce two XXX rabbits but that is the evaluation where several members of the litter did well and breeding you will want to repeat. I like to give these weaners that you had their X evaluation down in the XX area. This is about a month in individual cages and the start re- a sure sign that you have a slow developing line and you evaluations, with a total of 3 re-evaluations before they make want to watch culling these animals at too early of a date. the team so to speak. These evaluations are most effective in Notice carefully how the placements in the litter line up. You my convention herds since there are usually large numbers of are not getting the right rabbits if your 1/7 rabbit grades way rabbits to compare. In these evaluations first through 20th or below your 4/7 rabbit in that litter. If this happens, you need however many junior bucks and does you might have to look at how you pose your rabbits when you cull them and available. Now is the time when you see if you have perhaps re-evaluate your understanding of the standard. Be evaluated the rabbits properly when you weaned, for as they certain you are looking for the right qualities in these are approaching 6 months of age, they are at their prime and weanings. should be as good as they will ever be in their lives. Always look back and try to see why you have missed Remember, you are now evaluating them on the overall that good rabbit at an early age. The only way you learn is quality of the animal, type, fur and color even though you from our mistakes and with a little practice, you will be should not hesitate to cull anything that doesn’t measure up pleasantly surprised at the degree of proficiency you can in fur to preserve your constant in this area. Do not consider attain. This system only works if you can be honest and condition and this sometimes make the comparison a little unbiased with yourself. You can always make the system difficult as it hard to place up an unfinished coat of fur as come out perfectly matched up, but if you don’t admit your you go along. Your top rated buck or doe when you take her mistakes in the privacy of your own barn, you are just back to the cage should be a XXX rabbit or at least a XX++ fooling yourself. No one wants to get beat by the one you rabbit. If you were right in the initial cull it will also be the sold because you didn’t think the rabbit would amount to top rabbit in that litter 1/7 for example. anything. Its much nicer to get beat by someone who has just Now for the sad part. It will almost never turn out bred a better rabbit than your own inabilities to recognize a exactly that way. Rabbits change as they mature. The top good rabbit. No system or breeding program is going to rabbits on evaluation and the top animals in the litter should become an overnight success. It is something that takes you be towards the top in the individual rankings or you are pouring your best abilities into a project. Here’s hoping you really missing your cullings. Usually you will find that the find all the success you are willing to work for. top rabbit is one of the top two within a litter. But quiet often, the second place rabbit in the litter has outdone the first place. This is not bad at all. What you do not want is the
12 Rabbits for Show by Eabert “Fibber” McGeHee, ARBA Judge
The art of getting rabbits ready for the show tables is weeks as the litter begins to come out of the nest they should something very few breeders or showmen know very much be firm and in good condition and again the litter is culled. about. In fact, I only know a few breeders who know how to At this time the calf manna is discontinued as I think it is a condition rabbits. They are always working to improve their little strong for the babies and does not agree with them. By methods. By writing this article I don’t want anyone to think now you can full feed the doe and the litter will begin to eat, that I have all the answers. I am just like the rest - still trying but just what is cleaned up from one evening to the next. As and have a lot to learn. the young begin to eat, I put a few oats on top of the pellets To start with, good condition means two things. That is as this seems to make firmer flesh. to have your rabbit in good firm flesh and a prime coat or at When the young are eight to ten weeks of age, I cull the its best potential. In my years behind the judging table, I litter again and wean them. Feeding only what they will have had to put off some of my best rabbits for lack of clean up from one evening to the next. I like to keep them condition and some exhibitors can not understand this and hungry enough that they are active and looking forward to leave the show table unhappy. I have always said that now feeding time. I still like to mix about one fourth oats in and then anyone is liable to get one or two of their herd pellets. At this age usually three ounces feed per day is ready but to get several ready at the same time and hold it is enough. Again it depends on the individual rabbit. where the art of conditioning comes in. At this stage is where most breeders make their mistake The first step is the stock you breed. In order to get your by overfeeding and getting rabbits too fat. A fat rabbit is show rabbits you must start with good stock. If your more apt to molt than one in just firm flesh condition. Once breeding stock never finishes out and has always been soft they are overfed and get fat, it is almost impossible to get the and flabby with a molty coat, you can not expect to get much back in show condition. better regardless of your conditioning methods. All of the At this time they should be developed both in body and conditioning in the world can’t make a good rabbit out of a fur to start picking and showing the best ones. In order to bad one. You can help them, but in order to win nowadays in give them just a little boost in flesh, I cut the pellets about Silver Marten competition, you have to have a good rabbit in one ounce and add a mixture of one third oat groats, one good condition. third corn and one third barley for a topping on their pellets Some of our best breeders have and do sell some of their with a half teaspoon calf manna. The barley I use is steamed best show stock which at the time of the sale were in good crimped. I add this to their feed about two weeks before condition and possibly were best of breed and within weeks show time. After the show I go back to just whole oats and the breeders can come back under the same judge and beat pellets. The oats seem keep them from getting fat to and you them. My reason for putting this in the article is to impress can hold the fur in condition. the importance of condition. I hope this will help someone and encourage them with Now, I will get along with my thoughts on condition. their hobby. I have said before there is no magic feed or trick After you have made the best mating available in your heard, that can bring rabbits to show condition in one or two weeks. the doe should be fed what she will clean up and as her litter It’s from the day you mate the doe. date draws closer she will want a little more and will put on Above all, regularity and cleanliness is most important. some weight. Above all do not let her get overly fat as this A stained rabbit is also out of condition as this spoils fur and can cause her to have trouble giving birth to the young. After color. It is not easy to raise rabbits as it takes a lot of time the young are born and the doe is settled down, check the and work. As the saying goes, “He who works the hardest is litter and remove any mess or dead babies. Remove any the luckiest at the show table”. young ones that are exceptionally small. Leave not more that eight of the strongest. I like six better. In raising show rabbits, I am not interested in how many rabbits I can raise or set any record on how many pounds of meat I can wean off at eight weeks. I just hope I can come up with something out of the litter that is better than I started with or good enough to win. I don’t mean by this that I don’t like food production but production is secondary in my case. I have always said if I have a doe that can raise me one or two good show rabbits a year I will keep her as long as she lives as I am not raising them for the meat market but to win. After you have culled the litter at birth, then after two or three days you should gradually increase the feed and I like to add a teaspoon of calf manna. I feel that this improves milk producing and the condition of the doe.
I am a firm believer that the first two weeks in the nest box will or will not make the show rabbit. After about three
13 The Challenging Silver Marten by Debbie Clark
You place your rabbits on the table. The judge picks it Being one of the newer breeders of the Silver Martens, up, poses it and gives it the old experienced eye. “This is a there is still much to learn, especially when it comes to beautifully typed rabbit” the judge says. “But...”, Your breeding which doe to which buck. And with a small rabbitry thinking to yourself, “Oh no, here it comes! No fur.” it becomes even more important. Relying on others advice is I’ll bet almost everyone has felt that way a time or two. I crucial for someone in this situation. But it’s not impossible, know we have. The most frequent faults that has been heard with good stock and proper breeding, to be competitive. is no type,no fur, lack of silvering or something. When my daughter was in youth, people would come and The challenge of getting the “perfect” Silver Marten can say, “It must be nice to have 200 rabbits to chose from”. be fun or frustrating, but when you get the once in a lifetime Little did they know that a herd of fifty was huge for us. But rabbit the results can be very rewarding. But what may be it did prove that being small and being competitive could be perfect to you may not be perfect to another. done. Someone once told us to breed for what you want and One of the questions we asked ourselves was “How not for someone else's preference. It sounds good but does it serious do we want to be about showing rabbits”? What really work? started out to be a 4-H project turned out to be a family One of the most common problems we have run across venture. A hobby that was reworked several times to decide is color. Especially in the chocolates. In one litter they all what stock we wanted and how much was to be invested into look promising. Then they grow up and you see one or two this hobby. comes out with a beautiful chocolate color, and then some of There was much to learn about the Martens. How big do them looks like they have been bleached. And of course the they get, how many points on type, fur, etc. It can be fun to bleached ones have the best type! Ok, back to the drawing learn. The fact that they are beautiful rabbits didn’t hurt board. And the most frequently heard comment by the judge either! is “I wish the color on this one was on the other rabbit”. We are very lucky breeders. We have one of the most Sound familiar? beautiful breeds around. Yes, the challenges are many more And then there are the sables. I admire breeders that than listed here. But one of the most enjoyable things I like raise these rabbits. They are very beautiful rabbits. But oh, to do is to watch the litter grow from baby kits to adult the trials you must go through to come up with the “perfect rabbits. Even spoiling them is fun also! rabbit!”
Debbie & Becky Clark PO Box 643 Akron, IN 46910 (219) 893-4057 [email protected]
Breeders of: Black & Chocolate Silver Martens
Black New Zealands
14 The Housing & Health of Show Rabbits by Sharon & Larry Webb
When I was first asked to write an article for the Silver you will have disease problems in many forms. One of the Marten Guidebook regarding “The Housing & Health of hardest things to keep is brushing the cages when you have Show Rabbits”, I thought it would be a piece of cake. We’ve many litters. It is much easier in the summer to brush the s since 1979 - should be no problem. Well, it’s interesting excess fur from the cages than it is in the winter. Often times that putting it into words is a little more difficult. Things in the winter it is necessary to tourch the fur from the cages have become so routine, that one forgets what you really do as dampness causes fur to stick to the wire. You should also over time with your rabbits. torch or scrub with a bleach type of product any cage that has It takes many years of hard work and study to become a had a sick rabbit in it before using it again. true show person with rabbits. The rewards are wonderful! There are varied opinions about flooring in a rabbitry. We have had the opportunity to meet great people and travel Some people use cement, others worm beds and other use to areas we otherwise would never had seen. Hobbies are a just dirt floors. The concern with solid cement floors is part of almost everyone’s life. Raising show rabbits offers ammonia from the build up of urine, if not removed on a competition, physical activity, education and togetherness daily basis. Some rabbitries have dirt below the cages with with friends old and new. cement walk ways. This appears to be a nice clean approach. Housing, “sanitation” and health go together. There are One does have to be careful that the walk ways stay clean, as many options to housing your rabbits. Some people have they can become very slippery when urine gets on the their rabbits housed in backyard barns, metal pole barns, in cement. You also must consider how much space you will their garage or in outside hutches. Whatever type of housing need to clean under the cages. The other option is to have you choose always be sure you have plenty of air circulation dirt floors. The urine is absorbed into the dirt and the waste without having your rabbits in a heavy draft or wind. They can be easily removed. In our case, we have clay soil so we must stay dry and you always want to keep the ammonia bring sand in to put under our cages,layering the sand several odor down. A regular routine of cage and feeder cleaning is inches deep. The sand packs down to make very hard also extremely important. walkways. We also put light layers of sawdust on the waste We are very fortunate to live in a very wooded area and about once a week to keep the odors down and to absorb the have not experience the heat problems of some of our urine. friends. Our rabbits are housed in a metal pole barn that is There are many opinions regarding the feeding and now 20 years old. We have learned over the years the things watering of show rabbits. We have found what works best we would do different if we ever built a new barn. On the for us and we have stayed with it for many years. It appears narrow end of our barn we have a twelve food sliding door that rabbits, like humans, do best with a routine. We do not open all year. This opening is protected with 2X4 inch wire have an automatic watering system. I have often wished for to prevent predators from entering. Inside the barn we have one, as there are certainly many advantages to one. On the two or three fans running at all times. The opposite end of other hand, there are advantages to not having one as well. the barn is vented across the top and bottom with wire screen For us, we can monitor how much water is being consumed to help the air circulation. We also insulated the ceiling. by the rabbits. If a rabbit isn’t drinking, it will not eat. The Doing this helped keep the barn warmer in the winter and problems with hand watering is you must keep the water and cooler in the summer. Another option for cooling in the crocks clean. We check our rabbits water every morning. The summer is to put a soaker hose on the peak of your barn roof. crocks are dumped in the morning and topped off in the early It can simply be attached with duck tape. Only turning it on evening when we feed. when temperatures are expected to be very warm; however, We have found that we routinely feed our rabbits within you want to turn the soaker on early, otherwise hot air is an hour time frame everyday. It is important to use a good trapped inside your rabbitry. If you are considering building quality feed that has plenty of protein and fiber with no a new barn, keep in mind that a white roof will reflect heat, mold. It is equally important that the breed you raise gets the keeping your building cooler. proper amount of feed each day. To free feed does that are Silver Marten rabbits are all dark animals. It is important not lactating can cause many problems, including difficulties to remember dark colors absorb more heat and they will not with fertility, kindling problems and a shorter life span. withstand the heat as well as white rabbits. When a rabbit has Bucks that have been free fed can become lazy and not wet nostrils on a hot day, it is in a dangerous situation and aggressive breeders. On the other hand, you want to be sure you could loose it. It is important to be aware of your rabbits you do not underfeed your rabbits. This can also cause needs on very warm days. fertility problems, difficulties with size and less resistance to The importance of keeping good clean cages is very disease. crucial. The cages should be free from rust as possible and There are many opinions regarding conditioning rabbits without broken wire. You never want to have a build up of for show. I am sure that there are many ways with which to rabbit droppings in your cages. Any droppings should be condition ones’ rabbits; however, the first thing is to have a brushed from the wire on a regular basis. If you don’t do this, line of stock that reproduces good condition. If you have rabbits in poor fur or flesh, it is usually passed on to the next
15 generation. Some people have spent considerable amounts of money for products for conditioning. Other have their own blends. We have tried various things over the years. We feel that the best conditioning comes from the breeding stock itself. In the wonderful world of rabbits there are many challenges. It would almost seem the greatest is disease. The most common is pasteurella, mostly known as snuffles. However, pasteurella is also a form of a pneumonia, weepy eye, abscess, wry neck and uterine and testicular infections. Treating rabbits with pasteurella problems is usually not effective. If it does appear to be improved from treatment, it is usually temporary and only gives the problem the opportunity to spread. The best solution is to cull any animal with these concerns. There are many other diseases with rabbits. Some include coccidiosis, (two types: liver and intestinal), enteroxemia, mucoide enteritis, rabbit syphilis, mastitis, myxomatosis (two types from mosquitos, acute and long term). Other problems with rabbits are parasites, causing problems with fur mites (or Mange) and ear canker. These are a few diseases with rabbits. Many excellent resources are available for more information. It seems as though, if you have proper ventilation and are consistent with your feeding and cleaning program the greatest battles are conquered. The reward is to raise, show and win with stock you have raised. And, most important, remember all the friends you have met through raising rabbits!!
16 Conditioning Silver Martens by Tex Thomas, ARBA Judge
The definition of condition in the ARBA Standard calls prime, even junior coats on your show animals. for “The overall physical condition of a rabbit in relation to At this time the environmental factors start to take over health, cleanliness, fur and grooming.” Many different from the hereditary factors. You should be certain that the aspects must be considered to obtain this level of condition rabbit has a good clean constant supply of water at all times. which so desirable in show winners. An animal which is not getting adequate water will not eat The first consideration that we must make is the area of properly, and will never finish to the desirable degree in heredity. When purchasing your initial breeding stock, go to flesh condition. A feed level appropriate to the breed of a reputable breeder who has been in the business for several rabbit you are raising must be established. The worst thing years. Too many people want to get into show rabbits as you can do in conditioning a rabbit is overfeed. It is always cheaply as possible and still have a winner. The two do not easier to add a few ounces to the animal than it is to try to go together very well. Ask around about the prices you can reduce him a few ounces. Fat and flabby animals will not expect to pay in your chosen breed, and when you get an carry the required flesh condition of a show rabbit, and you idea of that price, go to a good breeder and strike your deal. will find that the fur is harder to get in condition and hold on A breeder who has been around a number of years will these over fat rabbits. A rabbit should meet you at the door at probably have a stronger line of rabbits bred closer to the feeding time and always be ready to eat. You should also not Standard. I emphasize this so strongly because if you do not feed more pellets that the rabbit will clean up in 2 hours. have the proper hereditary factors bred into your rabbits, you Over feeding is the biggest mistake new breeders and are wasting your time trying all other methods of showmen make. conditioning. A show rabbit must contain the hereditary code You will probably find that you will want to supplement to condition easily if you are going to be a winner on the the rabbits diet with some additional goodies to stimulate show table. Good foundation stock will contain this trait. both appetite and growth. Oats and barley are renowned as Assuming that you now have good foundation stock, the good supplementary feeds for your rabbits, but remember next area of concern is your breeding program. Very few that if you do feed supplements, cut back on the amount of breeders are going to sell you an instant winner without pellets that the rabbit is getting. Beware feeding corn, except charging an arm and a leg. If you are to win at showing in the winter time. Corn has a tendency to build too much rabbits, you are going to have to raise your winners. Here body fat unless the weather in your area is cold enough that again hereditary factors enter into the picture. To produce an the extra energy is burned off in keeping warm. animal which will condition easily, breed together animals I would not recommend that you supplement with green which carry this characteristic. If you have a rabbit which is feeds to any large degree. This is especially true of lettuce or constantly in a molt and the coat never seems to achieve a any other leafy vegetable that is high in moisture content. finished look, don’t use this animal in your breeding They will have a tendency to cause scours in rabbits. Keep program. It will only pass along the characteristic of any of these feeds to carrots or turnips, or some other high difficulty to condition and amplify your problems down the fiber and low water content plant. road. All rabbits molt, but the process should only take a As you reach a fur and flesh prime you desire on your couple months. What I am saying is beware of the animal rabbit, start to slightly cut back on the amount of feed you who only has a finished coat 1 month of the year. Rabbits are giving. Once the rabbit finishes, it does not need as much from such animals are usually the same way, hard to feed to maintain its condition. Overfeeding at this point only condition. shortens the time you will retain prime condition on your Try to use the natural characteristics of a rabbit to your rabbit. advantage in getting your rabbit ready to show. By this I Rabbits must also be protected from the extremes of heat mean, stage your breeding around primary shows you plan to and cold. The nearer to a constant environment you are able attend. Good show rabbits should reach a good junior prime to provide, the easier your conditioning process will become. at about 4 ½ months of age. Therefore, if you will plan your Being highly susceptible to drafts, rabbits should be kept in breedings so that your juniors are about 5 ½ months old at protected areas. The basic rule is that if you are the time of a special show, you will find that they are easier uncomfortable with the weather, so is your rabbit. Extremes to get in condition. of weather are going to cause the rabbit to be constantly Once you have produced your littler of prospective show molting. To finish fur, you need to try to have as consistent winner, the process of conditioning starts with culling and environment as you can provide. selection. Most breeders like to wean at between 8 and 10 Once heredity and environmental factors of conditioning weeks. At that time you should separate out the animals you are met, you are ready to show your animal. It is important in are planning to show into separate pens. You will find that an transporting your prize animal to the show that you do not animal matures better and the coat of the rabbit finishes allow extremes of heat or cold to get to the rabbit. Two hours faster if they are separate from any litter mates by 10 weeks of age. Animals which are allowed to run together longer in 100 degree in the back of a pickup can destroy 6 months worth of conditioning instantly. Keep animals comfortable than this have a tendency to chew fur on each other. When on the way to shows, just like you would if you were at that happens, you will find it very difficult to get good, home.
17 Before placing the animal on the table for judging, take a small amount of water and rub down the coat. Just dampen it enough to kill the static electricity and then work the fur back and forth until all the water has evaporated. This will give the fur a more natural life and flyback. Do not use anything besides water on your fur. Silicones based preparations such as horse showmen use is strictly prohibited and could result in your entire entry being disqualified from the showroom. An animal in its natural prime doesn’t need a lot of supplements. Animals don’t hold their prime condition forever. Your great winner today may go into a molt after the show and look awful 2 weeks later. It is important to show only animals which are well conditioned. Regardless of the quality of an animal, if it is not in good condition, it is not going to win if it is up against outstanding competition. Conditioning is the whipped cream and cherry on the top in the rabbit raising. By practicing good conditioning basics and showing only animals which are in prime condition, your days at rabbit shows will be filled with many well earned wins.
Tex Thomas, ARBA Judge 22267 Hwy ZZ Marionville, MO 65705 (417) 463-7146
Raising & Showing Black & Blue Silver Martens since 1959
No Shipping Available
Dedicated to Excellence in Silver Martens
18 “Tattooing” by Tex Thomas, ARBA Judge
One of the problems with showing rabbits is the tendency to settle out when not used immediately after requirement that they have permanent tattoo in the left ear manufacture. When applying the ink make a special effort to that is legible. The problem that novice breeders often face is work the applicator or brush back and forth to insure the ink getting the tattoo to take on a permanent basis. penetrants all the tattoo holes. Its a bit messier, but you can Several things should be done to insure a good tattoo. take a finger and work the ear by rubbing over the tattoo First is to clean the ear with any substance which will cut the several times and you will find the ink will penetrate very oil that builds in on the inner portion of the ear. Rubbing well and give an excellent tattoo. alcohol does a very good job of cutting this natural skin oil If you don’t have to show the rabbit for at least a week, I or just plain soap and water will work. The idea is to not don’t recommend putting anything on the final tattoo. I push this oily film into the puncture wounds that the tattoo prefer to allow the puncture holes to heal naturally. If you makes as oil of any type is going to retard the setting up of have a show within a week, you will probably have to clean the ink if it is in the bottom of the punctures. the ink out with Vaseline. Only use enough Vaseline to make Secondly, you should check your needles on your tattoo the tattoo legible. Don’t rub the Vaseline too much or you numbers and letters. The needles must set at exactly the same can pull some of the ink out of the tattoo holes. height to give an event tattoo. Mixing metal and plastic My personal preference in tattooing is a sharpened off numbers is not a good practice as they never seem to give an braising rod rather than the clamp and letters. Any sharp even mark when mixed. Metal will give good penetration piece of metal will work. It should be ground down to a point while the plastic doesn’t penetrate as well in conjunction about the size and shape of a pencil lead that has just been with metal numbers. sharpened. The advantage of this system is the cost, since Some people prefer to use a tattoo box to restrain the you don’t have to buy a large selections of numbers and rabbit during tattooing. I prefer to grasp the rabbit under the letters, plus it gives a lot of flexibility in what tattoo can be arm so there is not pressure across the top of the back. The placed in the ear. The disadvantage is it takes a little getting main source of injury with tattoo boxes is when the rabbit use to for proficiency in tattooing. Until you become jumps when pressure is applied, striking its back on the top proficient with this system, I would suggest you use a fine of the tattoo box, injuring its spinal cord. By holding the point marking pen to draw in a pattern of numbers or letters animal under your arm, he may break your grasp when he for the tattoo. The trick then is to restrain the rabbit and jumps, but he is not as likely to do any significant injury to follow the earmark pattern. himself. To do this, I put the rabbit on a table next to a one foot Apply the pressure to the tattoo set firmly and quickly. long 4 inch by 4 inch block. You can have an assistant To get the necessary penetration of the needles the grip must restrain the rabbit or block the rabbit with your arm and bottom out. Do not be shy in squeezing down on the tattoo shoulder. Bend the left ear over and use the 4X4 block for a grip. The deeper and firmer the numbers are set in the ear, back support and poke the individual holes following the the more legible the earmark is going to be. Immediately drawn tattoo. This may sound complicated, but with a little release the grip and the rabbit and give the animal a chance practice you can punch out a tattoo without having to mark a to move around and collect its bearings before applying the pattern in the ear, and complete the tattoo quicker that you ink. can set a series of numbers in a tong tattoo outfit. The final Any good India ink or commercial tattoo ink will work advantage of this system is that it gives an extremely legible fine. I prefer to use a commercial tattoo ink with a roll on tattoo plus the individual pen can be used to touch up light dispenser. The important thing to remember is to shake the ear marks left by a clamp system. ink well before using it. You will hear breeders complain that the must have gotten a bad batch of ink....In most cases, this is a result of not shaking your ink sufficiently prior to applying it. Commercial tattoo inks all have a marked
19
The Four Varieties of Silver Martens
Black
Blue
Chocolate
Sable
20 21 SILVER MARTEN STANDARD OF PERFECTION As of January 1, 2001
VARIETIES: BLACK--BLUE--CHOCOLATE--SABLE
SCHEDULE OF POINTS
GENERAL TYPE ...... 40
FUR ...... 20
COLOR ...... 22
MARKINGS ...... 13 Silvering ...... 4 Triangle & Collar ...... 4 Eye Circles ...... 2 Nostril ...... 2 Belly Color ...... 1
CONDITION ...... 5
TOTAL POINTS ...... 100
SHOWROOM CLASSES & WEIGHTS
Senior Bucks-- 6 month of age and over, weight 6 to 8½ pounds. Ideal weight 7½.
Senior Does-- 6 months of age and over, weight 7 to 9½ pounds. Ideal weight 8½ pounds.
Junior Bucks-- Under 6 month of age, not over 6½ pounds. Minimum weight 3 1/4 pounds.
Junior Does-- Under 6 months of age, not over 7½ pounds. Minimum weight 3 1/4 pounds.
NOTE: Juniors which exceed maximum weight limits may be shown in higher age classifications. No animal may be shown in a lower age classification than its true age.
NOTE: Silver Martens should not be judged as a marked breed. Markings are to be the final consideration after type, color, and fur.
GENERAL TYPE--Points 40: The body is to be of medium length and good depth, with well developed hindquarters and shoulders. Shoulders are to be slightly narrower than the hips to form a slight taper. The back is to rise gradually from nape of the neck to the high point over the center of the hips, and continue down to the base of the tail. The body is to be plump and full fleshed. Hips are to have good depth to indicate roundness when viewed from any direction.
Faults--Racy. Cut severely for shoulders wider than hips, flat loin, or protruding hips.
HEAD--The head is to be medium length (rather broad in bucks), with a short neck.
Faults--Long, narrow head; long in neck.
EARS-- The ears are to be in proportion to size of the head and body, and carried erect.
Faults-- Long, thin ears; not well furred.
EYES-- The eyes are to be large, bright, and bold.
FEET & LEGS-- Feet and legs are to have straight, medium bone. Toenails are to be dark brown in Blacks, blue in Blues, light brown in Chocolates and Sables.
Fault--Long in bone.
Disqualifications from Competition--Unmatched or white toenail(s) on same foot or on corresponding foot in all varieties.
TAIL-- Length is to be in proportion to size of the body.
22 FUR--Points 20: Fur is to conform to the ARBA Commercial Normal Fur Standard.
Faults--Silky texture; extra long coat, lacking density.
COLOR--Points 22 (Luster desirable in all colors.)
BLACK-- Color is to be jet black, as free from mealy appearance as possible. It is to be interspersed with evenly distributed silver tipped guard hairs, showing very conspicuously above the regular black color of the body coat. Silvering is to be carried well up the sides and rump. Under color is to be jet black, merging into a deep rich blue at base. Eyes--Brown
BLUE--Surface color is to be an even shade of dark blue, carried as far as possible down the hairshaft. It is to be interspersed with evenly distributed silver tipped guard hairs, showing very conspicuously above the regular blue color of the body coat. Silvering is to be carried well up the sides and rump. Eyes--Blue-gray.
CHOCOLATE-- Color is to be a dark chocolate, as free from mealy appearance as possible. It is to be interspersed with evenly distributed silver tipped guard hairs, showing very conspicuously above the regular chocolate color. Silvering is to be carried well up the sides and rump. Under color is to merge into a lighter chocolate. Eyes--Brown, with ruby cast permissible.
SABLE-- Color is to be a dark sepia brown on ears, face, tail, and outside of legs. Saddle color is to be of medium sepia brown, shading off along the sides to a lighter tinge. Blending must be gradual with no blotches or streaks. It is to be interspersed with evenly distributed silver tipped guard hairs, showing very conspicuously above the regular sable color of the body coat. Silvering is to be carried well up the sides and rump. A band of light sepia, about an inch in width, extends across the forehead, just below the ears. Eyes--Brown with a ruby cast.
Faults--Specimen with conspicuous showing of solid white hairs in body color; slight sprinkling of solid white hairs.
Disqualifications from Competition-- Any foreign colored patch(es) other than off color due to molt. Eyes other than the color called for.
Ears-- Outside color is to match the body color, free from white hairs and tipping. Inner portion of the ear is to be silver white. A white bar at the ear base is permissible.
Faults-- White hairs and tipping on ears and at the base of ears.
FEET & LEGS-- Hind legs are to match body color on the outside and match belly color on the inside, with dividing line as straight and even as possible. Forelegs are to match body color on the outside and to extend as far as possible around the inside of the legs.
TAIL-- Upper part of the tail is to match body color, under part to match belly color.
MARKINGS--Points 13: (pattern) all colors.
SILVERING--Points 4: Sides are to have evenly distributed silver tipped guard hairs running from belly color well up the sides and rump. Back is to be free of tipping and stray white hairs.
TRIANGLE & COLLAR--Points 4: The neck is to have a silver triangle at the nape of the neck, not over 2½ inches in length. It is to be connected by a narrow silver white collar, running around the neck to a silver white under jaw.
EYE CIRCLES--Points 2: The eyes are to have very distinct silver white circles around the eyes. Both eye circles are to be the same size and to balance with the head.
NOSTRILS--Points 2: Nostrils are to be white, with the white confined to the immediate nostril.
BELLY COLOR--Points 1: The belly color is to be silver white and clean. Under color is desirable.
Faults-- Mealiness on head; short, blunt, or spoon shaped triangle.
CONDITION--Points 5: Per ARBA definition.
23