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Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe European History Yearbook Jahrbuch Für Europäische Geschichte
Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe European History Yearbook Jahrbuch für Europäische Geschichte Edited by Johannes Paulmann in cooperation with Markus Friedrich and Nick Stargardt Volume 20 Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe Edited by Cornelia Aust, Denise Klein, and Thomas Weller Edited at Leibniz-Institut für Europäische Geschichte by Johannes Paulmann in cooperation with Markus Friedrich and Nick Stargardt Founding Editor: Heinz Duchhardt ISBN 978-3-11-063204-0 e-ISBN (PDF) 978-3-11-063594-2 e-ISBN (EPUB) 978-3-11-063238-5 ISSN 1616-6485 This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 04. International License. For details go to http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/. Library of Congress Control Number:2019944682 Bibliographic information published by the Deutsche Nationalbibliothek The Deutsche Nationalbibliothek lists this publication in the Deutsche Nationalbibliografie; detailed bibliographic data are available on the Internet at http://dnb.dnb.de. © 2019 Walter de Gruyter GmbH, Berlin/Boston The book is published in open access at www.degruyter.com. Typesetting: Integra Software Services Pvt. Ltd. Printing and Binding: CPI books GmbH, Leck Cover image: Eustaţie Altini: Portrait of a woman, 1813–1815 © National Museum of Art, Bucharest www.degruyter.com Contents Cornelia Aust, Denise Klein, and Thomas Weller Introduction 1 Gabriel Guarino “The Antipathy between French and Spaniards”: Dress, Gender, and Identity in the Court Society of Early Modern -
The Denim Report
118 Fashion Forward Trends spring/summer 2016 | fabrics & more | FFT magazine 119 THE DENIM REPORT n this season, the denim offering is wide and qualitative: selvedge denim for purists, power stretch for trendsetters, washed-out effect for the 70s wind blowing around Ithe fashion world, and eco-friendly for green and ethical brands. Little did one know that the fabric would ingratiate itself in the mainstream so decidedly as to become the uniform of generations post the 80s. Irrespective of whether you belong in the 1% or the 99, your age bracket or your cultivated tastes, denim has been part of everyone’s wardrobe. It’s a 60 billion dollar market for retailers alone and designers are keen to partake a piece of this massive pie. It helps that the fabric is the ‘people pleaser’ – it will readily turn into anything one likes. Numerous innovations and fabric infusions such as khadi-denim, silk- denim, 3D textures and laser and ozone finishes change its face beyond comprehension, and this, once street-style, turns sophisticated enough to form a cocktail dress. INDUSTRY TRENDS Sustainability has been a long-standing buzzword but there is ever-newer growth in this direction. As the trend for distressed jeans diminishes, the dyeing process becomes less dependent on chemical sprays and resins. Multiple brands are opting to use 100% organic cotton and natural dye. Artisanal products go for untreated metal zippers and rivets, making it non-toxic. Chemical companies’ enthusiasm for change is making them to associate with leading jeans manufacturers to bring about major savings in key materials, energy, water usage, waste and emission reductions, and ensuring your right to operate in communities around the world. -
Uniform Procurement Guide
UNITED STATES COAST GUARD AUXILIARY UNIFORM PROCUREMENT GUIDE How do we look? ILLUSTRATIONS AND INSTRUCTIONS – 10/1/2009 ANSC # 7053 RECORD OF CHANGES # DATE CHANGE PAGE 1. Insert “USCG AUXILIARY TUNIC OVERBLOUSE” information page with size chart. 19 2. Insert the Tunic order form page. 20 3. Replace phone and fax numbers with “TOLL FREE: (800) 296-9690 FAX: (877) 296-9690 and 26 1 7/2006 PHONE: (636) 685-1000”. Insert the text “ALL WEATHER PARKA I” above the image of the AWP. 4. Insert the NEW ALL WEATHER II OUTERWEAR SYSTEM information page. 27 5. Insert the RECEIPT FOR CLOTHING AND SMALL STORES form page. 28 1. Insert additional All Weather Parka I information. 26 2 11/2006 2. Insert All Weather Parka II picture. 27 1. Replace pages 14-17 with updated information. 14-17 3 3/2007 2. Insert UDC Standard Order Form 18 1. Change ODU Unisex shoes to “Safety boots, low top shoes, or boat shoes***” 4 4/2007 6, 8 2. Add a footnote for safety boots, low top shoes, or boat shoes 5 2/2008 1. Remove ODU from Lighthouse Uniform Company Inventory 25 1. Reefer and overcoat eliminated as outerwear but can be worn until unserviceable 6-10 6 3/2008 2. Remove PFD from the list of uniform items that may be worn informally 19 3. Update description of USCG Auxiliary Tunic Over Blouse Option for Women 21 1. Remove “Long”, “Alpha” and “Bravo” terminology from Tropical Blue and Service Dress Blue 7 6/4/2009 All uniforms 1. Sew on vendors for purchase of new Black “A” and Aux Op authorized 32 8 10/2009 2. -
Price List Best Cleaners 03-18.Xlsx
Price List Pants, Skirts & Suits Shirts & Blouses Pants Plain…………………………………………… 10.20 Business Shirt Laundered and Machine Pants, Silk/Linen…………………………………… . 12.30 Pressed (Men’s & Women’s)…… 3.60 Pants, Rayon/Velvet………………………………… 11.80 Pants Shorts………………………………………. 10.20 Chamois Shirt…………………………………………… 5.35 Skirts, Plain………………………………………… . 10.20 Lab Smock, Karate Top………………………………… . 7.30 Skirts, Silk, Linen………………………………….. 12.30 Polo, Flannel Shirt……………………………………… .. 5.35 Skirts, Rayon Velvet……………………………… .. 11.80 Sweat Shirt……………………………………………… . 5.70 Skirts Fully Pleated………………………………. 20.95 T-Shirt…………………………………………………… .. 4.60 Skirts Accordion Pleated………………………… . 20.95 Tuxedo Shirt……………………………………………… . 6.10 Suit 2 pc. (Pants or Skirt and Blazer)……………… 22.40.. Wool Shirt………………………………………………… . 5.35 Suit 3 pc. (Pants or Skirt Blazer & Vest)……………… 27.75. Suit, body suit………………………………………… 10.60. Blouse/Shirt, Cotton, Poly…………………………………… 9.50.. Suit, Jumpsuit…………………………………… 25.10 Blouse/Shirt, Rayon, Velvet………………………………… 11.10.. Sport Jacket, Blazer……………………………… .. 12.20 Blouse/Shirt, Silk, Linen……………………………………… 11.60 Tuxedo……………………………………………… . 22.95 Blouse/Shirt, Sleeveless……………………………………… 7.80 Vest………………………………………………… . 5.35 Dresses Outerwear Dress, Plain, Cotton, Wool, Poly, Terry, Denim…….. 19.00 Blazer, Sport Jacket……………………………… . 12.20 Dress,Silk, Linen …….………………………………. 23.20 Bomber Jacket………………………………….. 16.20 Dress,Rayon,Velvet …………………………………. 22.20 Canvas Field Coat………………………………… 16.20 Dress, 2-Piece, Dress & Sleeveless Jkt……………………… 27.60 Canvas Barn Jacket……………………………… -
The Developing Years 1932-1970
National Park Service Uniforms: The Developing Years 1932-1970 National Park Service National Park Service Uniforms The Developing Years, 1932-1970 NATIONAL PARK SERVICE UNIFORMS The Developing Years 1932-1970 Number 5 By R. Bryce Workman 1998 A Publication of the National Park Service History Collection Office of Library, Archives and Graphics Research Harpers Ferry Center Harpers Ferry, WV TABLE OF CONTENTS nps-uniforms/5/index.htm Last Updated: 01-Apr-2016 http://npshistory.com/publications/nps-uniforms/5/index.htm[8/30/18, 3:05:33 PM] National Park Service Uniforms: The Developing Years 1932-1970 (Introduction) National Park Service National Park Service Uniforms The Developing Years, 1932-1970 INTRODUCTION The first few decades after the founding of America's system of national parks were spent by the men working in those parks first in search of an identity, then after the establishment of the National Park Service in 1916 in ironing out the wrinkles in their new uniform regulations, as well as those of the new bureau. The process of fine tuning the uniform regulations to accommodate the various functions of the park ranger began in the 1930s. Until then there was only one uniform and the main focus seemed to be in trying to differentiate between the officers and the lowly rangers. The former were authorized to have their uniforms made of finer material (Elastique versus heavy wool for the ranger), and extraneous decorations of all kinds were hung on the coat to distinguish one from the other. The ranger's uniform was used for all functions where recognition was desirable: dress; patrol (when the possibility of contact with the public existed), and various other duties, such as firefighting. -
Garments, Parts of Garments, and Textile Techniques in the Assyrian
University of Nebraska - Lincoln DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln Textile Terminologies from the Orient to the Centre for Textile Research Mediterranean and Europe, 1000 BC to 1000 AD 2017 Garments, Parts of Garments, and Textile Techniques in the Assyrian Terminology: The eoN - Assyrian Textile Lexicon in the 1st-Millennium BC Linguistic Context Salvatore Gaspa University of Copenhagen Follow this and additional works at: http://digitalcommons.unl.edu/texterm Part of the Ancient History, Greek and Roman through Late Antiquity Commons, Art and Materials Conservation Commons, Classical Archaeology and Art History Commons, Classical Literature and Philology Commons, Fiber, Textile, and Weaving Arts Commons, Indo-European Linguistics and Philology Commons, Jewish Studies Commons, Museum Studies Commons, Near Eastern Languages and Societies Commons, and the Other History of Art, Architecture, and Archaeology Commons Gaspa, Salvatore, "Garments, Parts of Garments, and Textile Techniques in the Assyrian Terminology: The eN o-Assyrian Textile Lexicon in the 1st-Millennium BC Linguistic Context" (2017). Textile Terminologies from the Orient to the Mediterranean and Europe, 1000 BC to 1000 AD. 3. http://digitalcommons.unl.edu/texterm/3 This Article is brought to you for free and open access by the Centre for Textile Research at DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. It has been accepted for inclusion in Textile Terminologies from the Orient to the Mediterranean and Europe, 1000 BC to 1000 AD by an authorized administrator of DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. Garments, Parts of Garments, and Textile Techniques in the Assyrian Terminology: The Neo- Assyrian Textile Lexicon in the 1st-Millennium BC Linguistic Context Salvatore Gaspa, University of Copenhagen In Textile Terminologies from the Orient to the Mediterranean and Europe, 1000 BC to 1000 AD, ed. -
Characters Bugsy
PRINCIPAL CHARACTERS BUGSY - Trousers (pin stripes would be nice) - hat, with band matching waistcoat - Shirt, white (long sleeves) - overcoat of some kind (old fashioned looking) - Waistcoast FANCY x 2 different - SOM Captin’s green blazer? - pocketwatch BLOUSEY It is very important for Blousey to look dowdy and less glam/sophisticated than Needs a matching Tallulah’s girl outfit Another dress/outfit – something more others for after being hired at Sam’s sophisticated to show development of - dress of the time (to the knee) character (to go on a date) - overcoat - cloche hat FAT SAM’S GANG FAT SAM Dark three piece suit, possibly garish shirt (should look expensive but tacky a la Del Boy) ROXY ROBINSON as below (is killed in opening scene) KNUCKLES Need to look like gangsters but distinctly shabby and mismatched. LOUIS - White shirt (long sleeve) - ties/bowties worn loosely (plain colours, no characters/patterns) SNAKE EYES - Trousers, straight legged (black, brown, grey, pinstripe etc) - trilby, fedora hats, all mismatched (DO NOT HAVE TO WEAR A HAT) RITZY - Braces PICKETT - Waistcoats DAN’S GANG DANDY DAN - Three piece suit, expensive looking, plain shirt - cowboy boots - Bolo tie - Stetson hat BRONX CHARLIE Need to look slick and professional – all the same. DOODLES - White shirt (long sleeve) - Hats only if they can be all the same YONKERS - Trousers (black) - red rose (or flower) to be given and worn in an Act1 Scene (x5 only) LAUGHING BOY - Braces SHOULDER - Waistcoats BENNY LEE - Black or red ties all the same or alternate (whichever we can get all the same) TALLULAH’S GIRLS TALLULAH ‘Performing outfit’ ‘casual outfit’ - Glamorous 1920s style flapper dress DIFFERENT to the girl but co-ordinating - Long, sophisticated dress befitting the period (perhaps one of Dora’s - Feather boa baroness dresses from SOM?) - fur TILLIE All need to be the same. -
Dress Code Table
DRESS CODE FOR CONFERMENT CEREMONIES Wreathbinding Conferment Ceremony and Church Conferment and service or Secular Service Dinner and swordwhetting Ball day Masters, evening tail evening tail coat 1), black waistcoat, white evening tail gentlemen coat 1), white gloves, wreath and ring coat 1), white waistcoat waistcoat, white gloves, wreath and ring Masters, colourful, white, fulllength gown that is not white, ladies fulllength décolleté, white gloves and shoes, fulllength evening gown 2) wreath and ring 3) gown, white gloves and shoes, wreath and ring 5) Wreath evening tail evening tail coat 1), black waistcoat, white evening tail binders coat 1), white gloves coat 1), white waistcoat waistcoat, white gloves Wreath colourful, white, fulllength gown that is not White fulllength binderesses fulllength décolleté, white gloves and shoes 3) gown, white evening gown 2) gloves and shoes 5) Jubilee evening tail evening tail coat 1), black waistcoat, white evening tail masters, coat 1), white gloves, wreath and ring coat 1), white gentlemen waistcoat waistcoat, white gloves, wreath and ring Jubilee colourful, black, fulllength gown that is not black, masters, fulllength décolleté, black gloves and shoes, fulllength ladies evening gown 2) wreath and ring 4) gown, black gloves and shoes, wreath and ring 5) Jubilee evening tail evening tail coat 1), black waistcoat, white evening tail masters' coat 1), white gloves coat 1), white wreath waistcoat waistcoat, white binders gloves Jubilee colourful, black, fulllength gown that is not -
Clothing Terms from Around the World
Clothing terms from around the world A Afghan a blanket or shawl of coloured wool knitted or crocheted in strips or squares. Aglet or aiglet is the little plastic or metal cladding on the end of shoelaces that keeps the twine from unravelling. The word comes from the Latin word acus which means needle. In times past, aglets were usually made of metal though some were glass or stone. aiguillette aglet; specifically, a shoulder cord worn by designated military aides. A-line skirt a skirt with panels fitted at the waist and flaring out into a triangular shape. This skirt suits most body types. amice amice a liturgical vestment made of an oblong piece of cloth usually of white linen and worn about the neck and shoulders and partly under the alb. (By the way, if you do not know what an "alb" is, you can find it in this glossary...) alb a full-length white linen ecclesiastical vestment with long sleeves that is gathered at the waist with a cincture aloha shirt Hawaiian shirt angrakha a long robe with an asymmetrical opening in the chest area reaching down to the knees worn by males in India anklet a short sock reaching slightly above the ankle anorak parka anorak apron apron a garment of cloth, plastic, or leather tied around the waist and used to protect clothing or adorn a costume arctic a rubber overshoe reaching to the ankle or above armband a band usually worn around the upper part of a sleeve for identification or in mourning armlet a band, as of cloth or metal, worn around the upper arm armour defensive covering for the body, generally made of metal, used in combat. -
000 Mens Hotspot Update Flagship Stores
000 Mens Hotspot Update Flagship Stores RIVER ISLAND 1 Planogram flagship stores FOOTWEAR NON CLOTHING Outerwear block SMART 2- Navy & Berry =Puffa DENIM block =Suede- Planogram block Knitwear block CASUAL SMART 1- SMART Neutrals JERSEY Priority 1-Mono Priority 2- embroidered FRONT ZONE Denim is an anchor department & should not be moved. Ideally denim should sit on the Casual side between jersey and casual knit/shirts 2 Key Points flagship stores This is a Spring hotspot update. The main spring layout for mens will be issued week 10. Base Layout / Densities • Continue to block denim shorts within the dept. Chino shorts should go into Jersey 2. • Base layout should be reviewed as per zone plan making sure floor fixtures have space around them. • Matching jersey sets are a key fashion item and should be shown on hotspots or full hanging in a • Front zone densities should be followed - Don’t cram. wall. • Work to your “spring densities” floors should feel lighter • Outwear to be positioned at the back of casual. & not over filled to allow for side hanging to be used. Blocked mid floor. • Review wall configuration - Check arm heights are not too high & customers can reach product. Denim • Denim continues to be a big focus. Key points Key New for Spring • Merchandise fashion fits focally in dept & • Menswear will take on a “buy now, wear now” strategy for highlight with relevant new denim graphics. January and February this year. • Show new BOBBY & JIMMY fits in a wall and NOT • The shopfloor will be split between smart and casual. on a table for this timing. -
'I Don't Accept That Terrorism Has Nothing to Do with Islam': Female
Friday, Aug 11th 2017 11AM 20°C 2PM 20°C 5-Day ForecastFriday, Aug 11th 2017 20°C 20°C 5-Day Forecast Home News U.S. Sport TV&Showbiz Australia Femail Health Science Money Video Travel Fashion Finder Latest Headlines News World News Arts Headlines France Pictures Most read Wires Discounts Login 'I don't accept that terrorism has Site Web Enter your search nothing to do with Islam': Female Like Follow Daily Mail @dailymailuk Imam who banned burqas in her liberal Follow +1 Daily Mail Daily Mail mosque says UK Sharia courts breed DON'T MISS extremism and must be shut down 'It will shock her fans': Rihanna's Saudi Seyran Ates, female Imam, opened a liberal mosque for all Muslims in Germany billionaire beau Hassan Jameel was 'MARRIED Mosque in Berlin is for women, men, Sunni, Shiite, straight and gay Muslims - the to esteemed art expert only rule is that the burka or niqab is banned before meeting songstress' Ms Ates, 54, is in London to find a venue to open 'all welcome' mosque in the UK Recovering drug She says it was a mistake to open strict, Islamic law Sharia courts in this country addict Paul Danan is She claims hardline courts alienate liberal Muslims and support fundamentalists RESTRAINED on CBB after he lashes out at 'hypocrite' Sarah By CLAUDIA JOSEPH FOR MAILONLINE Harding when she claims he's on 'meds' PUBLISHED: 16:55 BST, 26 July 2017 | UPDATED: 19:46 BST, 26 July 2017 PICTURE EXCLUSIVE: Smiling Cheryl looks 1.4k 7 chic as she's pictured in View comments shares public for FIRST TIME since giving birth five months ago...to pick up A controversial female Imam, who received death threats after opening a liberal a visa at US embassy mosque for all Muslims, says the UK's Sharia courts breed Islamic extremism and Biker babe! Kylie called for them to be shut. -
A Dictionary of Men's Wear Works by Mr Baker
LIBRARY v A Dictionary of Men's Wear Works by Mr Baker A Dictionary of Men's Wear (This present book) Cloth $2.50, Half Morocco $3.50 A Dictionary of Engraving A handy manual for those who buy or print pictures and printing plates made by the modern processes. Small, handy volume, uncut, illustrated, decorated boards, 75c A Dictionary of Advertising In preparation A Dictionary of Men's Wear Embracing all the terms (so far as could be gathered) used in the men's wear trades expressiv of raw and =; finisht products and of various stages and items of production; selling terms; trade and popular slang and cant terms; and many other things curious, pertinent and impertinent; with an appendix con- taining sundry useful tables; the uniforms of "ancient and honorable" independent military companies of the U. S.; charts of correct dress, livery, and so forth. By William Henry Baker Author of "A Dictionary of Engraving" "A good dictionary is truly very interesting reading in spite of the man who declared that such an one changed the subject too often." —S William Beck CLEVELAND WILLIAM HENRY BAKER 1908 Copyright 1908 By William Henry Baker Cleveland O LIBRARY of CONGRESS Two Copies NOV 24 I SOB Copyright tntry _ OL^SS^tfU XXc, No. Press of The Britton Printing Co Cleveland tf- ?^ Dedication Conforming to custom this unconventional book is Dedicated to those most likely to be benefitted, i. e., to The 15000 or so Retail Clothiers The 15000 or so Custom Tailors The 1200 or so Clothing Manufacturers The 5000 or so Woolen and Cotton Mills The 22000