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MARCH 2008 NO. 150 The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore

Grenada Sailing Festival 2008 See story on page 10 TIM WRIGHT / WWW.PHOTOACTION.COM MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 2 MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 3 MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 4

BILL BATE DEAN BARNES The Caribbean’sMonthlyLookatSea&Shore Visiting culturalchange...... 22 Man, ohMánamo! ...... 18 Southwestern style A CubaCruise ...... 13 For youngandold Cruzan Racing See Writers’Guidelinesatwww.caribbeancompass.com.Sendsubmissions [email protected]. Caribbean Compass Tel: (767)448-2705,[email protected] MarineCenter,24VictoriaStreet,Roseau, Dominica: [email protected] Tel: (5999)767-9042,Fax:767-9003, Curaçao: [email protected] Tel/Fax: (246)426-0861 Barbados: [email protected] Tel (268)774-6657 Antigua: Compass AgentsbyIsland: [email protected] Accounting...... Debra Davis [email protected] Art, Design&Production...... WilfredDederer [email protected] Advertising &Distribution...... TomHopman [email protected] Assistant Editor...... ElaineOllivierre [email protected] Editor...... Sally Erdle www.caribbeancompass.com [email protected] Tel: (784)457-3409,Fax:457-3410, Bequia, St.VincentandtheGrenadines. Compass PublishingLtd.,P.O.Box175BQ, Caribbean Compass ...... 39 Cartoons ...... 39 Cruising Crossword ...... 38 Island Poets ...... 38 Sailors’ Horoscope ...... 34 Meridian Passage ...... 28 All Ashore… ...... 18 Destinations ...... 14 Regatta News Business Briefs...... 8 Ad Sales&Distribution-LucyTulloch Distribution -CeesdeJong Distribution -NormanFaria Distribution -HubertJ.Winston welcomes submissionsofshortarticles,newsitems,photosanddrawings. except shortexcerptsforreviewpurposes, maybemadewithoutwrittenpermissionofCompassPublishing Ltd. ©2008 CompassPublishingLtd.All rightsreserved.Noreproduction,copyortransmissionofthispublication, supplied byothercompanies. Compass PublishingLtd.acceptsno liabilityfordelayeddistributionorprintingqualityastheseservices are responsibility foranystatementsmade therein.Lettersandsubmissionsmaybeeditedforlengthclarity. sole responsibilityoftheadvertiser, writerorcorrespondent,andCompassPublishingLtd.acceptsno We supportfreespeech! is publishedmonthlyby MARCH 2008•NUMBER150 www.caribbeancompass.com DEPARTMENTS ISSN 1605-1998 But thecontentofadvertisements,columns,articlesandlettersto editorarethe ati mt’ lsi ...... 32 Captain Smith’sclassic JohnS...... 28 Is itworththebeat? Barbados… ...... 26 Cruisers atCarnival Trini Time [email protected] Tel: (58-281)265-3844Tel/Fax:265-2448, Venezuela: [email protected] Tel: 868)634-2622Mob:(868)620-0978 Trinidad: Tel: (284)494-2830,Fax:494-1584 Tortola/BVI: Tel: (784)457-3527,[email protected] St. Vincent&theGrenadines: Tel: (340)7747931,[email protected] St. Thomas/USVI: [email protected] Tel/Fax: +590(0)590845310Mob:64945 Ad Sales-StéphaneLegendre Distribution -EricBendahan(599)5533850 St. Maarten/St.Barths/: [email protected] Tel: (758)584-1292, St. Lucia: [email protected] Tel: (0596)596686971,Mob:+(0)696932638 Martinique: [email protected] Mob: +590(0)6904945 detsr’Idx...... 54 Advertisers’ Index Classified Ads...... 54 ...... 52 Caribbean Marketplace ...... 50 What’s OnMyMind ...... 47 Readers’ Forum Cooking withCruisers...... 44 ...... 42 Book Reviews Dolly’s DeepSecrets...... 40 ...... 40 Cruising Kids’Corner Ad Sales&Distribution-JackDausend Distribution -WayneBarthelmy Ad Sales&Distribution-PattyTomasik Guadeloupe: Tel: (473)[email protected] Ad Sales&Distribution-AlanHooper /Carriacou/Petite Martinique: Ad Sales&Distribution-IsabellePrado Distribution -GladysJones Distribution -BryanLezama Ad Sales&DistributionStéphaneLegendre

Ad Sales-DebraDavis, STEVE MANLEY STEVE Photo: Tim Wright/www.photoaction.com Cover: GrenadaSailing Festival2008 31 -Apr6 30 29 -Apr20 28 -30 27 -30 24 23 23 24 -25 22 21 -23 21 21 20 -24 20 -24 20 20 20 17 15 -16 15 -16 14 -16 14 10 9 -23 8 7 -10 7 -9 6 -9 6 -9 6 3 1 MARCH TBA 30 28 27 -May3 25 -27 25 -27 24 22 20 19 19 17 -3May 17 -22 12 11 -13 6 -26 APRIL at thetimethisissueof contact informationoftheorganizingbody [email protected] If youwouldlikeanauticalortourismevent listedFREEinourcalendar, please sendthenameanddate(s)of eventandthename Spiritual BaptistLiberationDay.PublicholidayinTrinidad&Tobago USVI. www.rolexcupregatta.com 35th InternationalRolexRegatta,St.Thomas, St. BarthsBucketRace.www.newportbucket.com/StBarthsIndex.htm Easter Monday.Publicholidayinmanyplaces Nevis toSt.KittsCross-ChannelSwim Easter Sunday Goat andCrabRaces,Mt.PleasantBuccooVillage,Tobago Emancipation Day.PublicholidayinPuertoRico Grenada Round-the-IslandEasterRegatta.www.aroundgrenada.com Good Friday.Publicholidayinmanyplaces FULL MOON Easterval, UnionIsland,[email protected] Bequia EasterRegatta.www.begos.com/easterregatta Holy Thursday.PublicholidayinUSVI festival inSt.Patrick’s,Grenada St. Patrick’sDay.PublicholidayinMontserrat; www.antiguayachtclub.com Antigua LaserOpen.YachtClub(AYC), Le TrophéeGardelRace,Guadeloupe.www.Trophee-gardel.com www.culebrainternationalregatta.com International DinghyRegatta,PuertoRico. Culebra HeinekenInternationalRegattaand National HeroesDay.PublicholidayinSt.Vincent&theGrenadines Commonwealth Day.Publicholidayinsomeplaces 6th AnnualSt.JohnBluesFestival.www.stjohnbluesfestival.com International Women’sDay (WEYC), Tortola,BVI,[email protected],www.weyc.net 11th AnnualDarkandStormyRegatta,BVI.WestEndYachtClub Blues &RhythmsFestival,St.Vincent.www.svgtourism.com 13th AnnualTobagoGameFishingTournament.www.tgft.com 28th St.MaartenHeinekenRegatta.www.heinekenregatta.com www.heinekenregatta.com Budget MarineCommodore’sCup,St.Maarten. H. LavittyStoute’sBirthday(celebrated).PublicholidayinBVI Wahoo Tournament,BVI Spanish TownFishermen’sJamboreeand12thAnnual Caribbean FilmFestival,St.Barts.www.st-barths.com Windsurf raceinBonaire Queen’s Birthday.PublicholidayinNetherlandsAntilles. National Heroes’Day.PublicholidayinBarbados Plymouth JazzFestival,Tobago.www.tobagojazzfest.com www.grenadagrenadines.com/fest.html Carriacou MaroonMusicFestival. Guadeloupe toAntiguaRace.AYC Earth Day FULL MOON Declaration ofIndependenceDay.PublicholidayinVenezuela Virgin QueenPizzaPursuitRace,BVI.RBVIYC Antigua ClassicYachtRegatta.SEEADONPAGE17 Clean-Up Dive, Curaçao InternationalKiteFestival.www.curacaokites.com St. ThomasUSVICarnival.www.vicarnival.com Compass AnnualWriters’Brunch,[email protected] International EarthDay,Beachanddiveclean-upsinmanyplaces BVI SpringRegatta&SailingFestival.www.bvispringregatta.org 41st StanfordAntiguaSailingWeek.www.sailingweek.com Transcaraibes Rally,GuadeloupetoCuba.www.transcaraibes.com St. MaartenCarnival.www.stmaartencarnival.com All informationwascorrecttothebestof ourknowledge contact eventorganizersdirectlyforconfirmation. CALENDAR Compass went topress—butplanschange,soplease MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 5 —Continued on next page , was struck by on the dock at the Catamaran Club, at the Catamaran on the dock by lightning , was struck , a New Zealand-built, alloy sister ship to the well-known superyachts well-known to the ship sister alloy Zealand-built, , a New Vesper and Keturah January 2nd, Cabo San Francisco. At mid-afternoon, a yacht was approached by January 2nd, Cabo San Francisco. with a shotgun and two pis- January 12th, Porlamar, Margarita. Three men armed gun and a knife boarded a January 13th, Mochima Town. Two men armed with a and its occupants January 15th, Robedal, Margarita. A yacht was boarded its occupants robbed by January 26th, Los Testigos. A yacht was boarded and Hotspots reports from northeastern period with virtually no yacht-crime After a lengthy five men in a pirogue with a 75-horsepower Yamaha. After trying to sell drugs and five men in a pirogue with a yacht but were repelled. then asking for water, the men attempted to board the tols stole an unspecified amount of cash. able to identify one of the yacht, tied up its crew and looted it. The captain was robbers to police. and hospitalized. robbed by five armed men. The yacht’s captain was shot five armed men. The yacht’s captain was shot and hospitalized. sloop sloop the away from and was towed caught fire The boat Harbour, Antigua. Falmouth to the burnt She eventually the rig fell down. water where into shallow dock and this to a strike can do a lightning Amazing that destroyed. and was totally waterline (93-foot) yacht. 30-metre recent are the Among the most area has had a rash of incidents. Venezuela, that Net: Caribbean Safety & Security from reports by the following, as extracted Unfurled The anchorage at Robledal, Margarita, was the scene of one of the armed yacht The anchorage at Robledal, Venezuela in January robberies reported from northeastern

JOHN BURNIE was destroyed by lightning Keturah & Updates Superyacht Zapped by Lightning a thunderstorm in January, the German Frers-designed John Burnie reports: During Rodney Bay Lagoon Dredging Rodney Bay Lagoon around Rodney Bay Marina, St. Lucia, in preparation Dredging has commenced Does your insurance cover this?

for the installation of new docks. As dredging proceeds, anchoring may be prohibit- for the installation of new docks. lagoon only; the inner lagoon and Rodney Bay ed in certain areas of the outer anchoring in the outer lagoon, call Rodney Bay proper will be unaffected. Before Marina on VHF 16. Info MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 6 www.-embassy.org.uk. Caribbean. Dutch embassytoenterSt.Maarten.Thesevisasarenotobtainableinthe under theirseaman’sbook.AfterJuly1,affectedyachtcrewwillneedavisafrom secured agraceperiodthatpermittedyachtcrewfromaffectedcountriestoenter imposed therequirement,St.MaartenMarineTradesAssociation(SMMTA) too, mustfollowthatrule. visas fromsomevisitors.BecauseSt.MaartenisapartoftheNetherlandsAntilles,it, ter ofguaranteefromtheiragentthattheywillleave.TheEuropeanUnionrequires countries toenterSt.MaartenwithoutavisauntilJuly1,aslongtheyhavelet- and jumpingoverboard,hehad“changedhismind”swumashore. with aknifewoundonhisneck.Hereportedlytoldpolicethataftercuttinghimself The skipper,identifiedasHenrikTarp,wasfoundonanearbybeachthenextday crimes inEurope,attemptedsuicidewhilehisshipmateswereashorehavingdinner. 26th, wasnotarobbery.Authoritiessaythattheskipper,wantedforunspecified the Danishskipperofyacht crimes againstyachts.However,accordingtoinformedsourcesanincidentinvolving the YoungIslandCut/VillaareaofSt.Vincentmettodiscussdeterrence www.onsa.org.ve/riskzonesmaps. frompreviouspage —Continued We regrettoinform Eight Bells For moreinformationvisitwww.smmta.com. For acompletelistofnationalitiesneedingvisatoenterSt.Maartenvisit As LucyChabotReedreportedin In January,Dutchofficialsagreedtoallowmegayachtcrewfrommorethan120 Visa ReprieveforSt.Maarten-BoundCrew In relatednews,inmid-February,law-enforcementofficersandbusinesspeople For moreinformationvisitwww.safetyandsecuritynet.comand Ph/Fx: 784-457-311 Port Elizabeth Caribbean Diesel Bequia [email protected] Fx: 268-460-1767 Ph: 268-460-3050 English Harbour Seagull YachtServices [email protected] Fx: 268-460-1851 Ph: 268-460-1850 English Harbour Marine PowerServices Antigua Longlife. Reliability. Simplicity. Compass Lucia readers ofthedeathinearlyFebruaryyachts- [email protected] Fx: 596-596-788-075 Ph: 596-596-787-196 Port ofCasePilote Inboard DieselService Martinique [email protected] Fx: 473-443-1668 Ph: 473-443-1667 St. David's Grenada Marine [email protected] Fx: 473-439-2049 Ph: 473-439-2049 Grand Anse Enza Marine Grenada The Triton , whilemooredatYoungIslandCutonJanuary on January29th,whentheEUfirst

[email protected] Fx: 758-452-4333 Ph: 758-452-1222 Rodney BayMarina The SailLoft St Lucia [email protected] Fx: 340-776-6859 Ph: 340-776-6665 Coral Bay Coral BayMarine St. John Fx: 340-778-8974 Ph: 340-773-0289 Christiansted St. CroixMarine St Croix CHRIS DOYLE (2) DOYLE CHRIS Fx: 340-779-2457 Ph: 340-775-9912 Compass PointMarina All PointsMarine St Thomas [email protected] Fx: 599-544-3641 Ph: 599-544-2051 Cole Bay Electec St Maarten Left: FlagsatPetiteMartiniqueflewhalf-mastinhonorofHazeRichardson right) playedafinalfarewelltotheisland’sleadinglight Above: AstringbandincludingPSV’sboatcaptainChesterBelmar(secondfrom Doyle wroteinthe man, gentlemanandGrenadinestourismpioneerHazen“Haze”Richardson.Chris a eulogybyfellowpilotJonathonPalmer. married) waspackedtooverflowing.Itanupbeatservicewithlivelymusicand dignified man.Thechurch(thesameCatholicwhereHazeandLynnwere Grenada, St.VincentandthroughouttheGrenadinestopaytheirlastresectsthis United Stateshadtakenplace.Peoplecamebyplane,speedboatandyachtfrom local memorialserviceinPetiteMartinique—evenbeforethefuneralhisnative rial serviceforHazeRichardson.Inathoughtfulgesture,hiswidow,Lynn,arranged and PSVstaff.Hewas73yearsold. rock whilebodysurfinginCostaRica.Heissurvivedbyhiswife,Lynn,family,friends ing sceneinthelate1970sandearly1980s. home totheunforgettablePSVRegatta,whichwasahighlightofregionalrac- tages, oneofthelongestrunningsuccessstoriesinCaribbean.PSVwasalso formed fromanuninhabited113-acreislandtoauniquefirst-classresortof22cot- Caribbean islandandbuildahotel.HazeDougwereaskedtoit…” and oneoftheirclientswasWillisNichols,whothoughtitwouldbefuntobuya an oldwoodenyachtcalled Force andwithwhatlittlemoneytheycouldbeg,borrowscrape,bought Chris writes:Valentine’sDay2008markedtheendofanera.Foritwasmemo- Haze’s unexpectedendreportedlycameafterstrikinghisheadonasubmerged This islandwasPetitSt.Vincent,betterknownasPSV,whichHazeandDougtrans- “Back inthelate’50s,HazeRichardsonandDougTermanquitflyingforUSAir Sailors GuidetotheWindwardIslands [email protected] Fx: 868-634-4933 Ph: 868-634-4272 Chaguaramas Dockyard Electrics [email protected] Fx: 868-649-9091 Ph: 868-649-2487 Siparta Diesel TechnologyServices Trinidad Jacinta and setsailfortheCaribbean.Theychartered, [email protected] Fx: 284-494-1584 Ph: 284-494-2830 Road Town, Tortola Parts &Power [email protected] Fx: 284-494-8491 Ph: 284-494-3494 Road Town, Tortola Marine MaintenanceServices [email protected] Fx: 284-494-5389 Ph: 284-494-2400 Road Town, Tortola Cay Electronics Tortola : —Continued onnextpage —Continued MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 7 or dur- con- Compass Compass . Ralph Trout, author What’s With the Shark Hat? What’s With the been asking, Readers have Annual Writers’ Brunch Calling all “What’s the story with the “What’s the story with the photo of the on his shark balanced last issue of ?” in the Compass “Bad Luck in a of that issue’s One”, Great Place, Part came to settle about how he in Trinidad, says, “We saw this guy walking along the road one day in Toco. He must have had his hands full.” have been. I did express I did been. have in his idea some interest and his he discuss suggested of the chairman idea with board.” the TCMP tributors! If you’ve had an article, photo or poem pub- lished in the ing the past 12 months, you are cordially invited to bring a guest and join us at this year’s Compass Writers’ Brunch on Thursday March 20th at the ever-popular Mac’s Pizzeria in Bequia. The Compass Writers’ Brunch is held just at the beginning of the Bequia [email protected] special! we wlcome new advertisers By Design of Antigua, page 43; we wlcome new advertisers By Design of Antigua, page Compass Compass Compass Compass New E-Addresses for The general By reservation only. Please RSVP by March 17th to Welcomae Aboard! In this issue of Good to have you with us! phone Sally at (784) 457-3409. Easter Regatta, so you can stay on for a whole weekend of fun. The party is Easter Regatta, so you can stay on for a whole weekend to everyone who absolutely free — it’s our way of saying a special thank-you helps make the e-mail address [email protected] will change to [email protected] e-mail address [email protected] will change to effective March 1st. books of the USVI, page 41. Gourmet Food of St. Vincent, page 44; and Lagoonieville in February’s Readers’ Forum, it was S/Y Quietly . Sailing on a traditional locally built schooner seemed like a fit- locally built schooner . Sailing on a traditional Jambalaya I am sure we all wish Lynn the best of luck in continuing with PSV, which to all of us in continuing with PSV, which wish Lynn the best of luck I am sure we all Broadcasts to Continue HF Weather US Coast Guard reported: Last April the US Coast Guard asked for On February 11th, Sailworld.com the substantial public response that overwhelmingly After reviewing and analyzing responding public collectively perceives that the The study concluded: “The not have funds necessary to replace all of its HF trans- While the Coast Guard does Grenada’s Mutating Marine Sculpture park has been a The marine colonization at Grenada’s underwater sculpture Errata In the letter from Dalton Williams of All the flags in Petite Martinique were at half- and had been since the news. since the and had been at half-mast Martinique were flags in Petite All the was lunch where a magnificent boat to PSV went by service everyone After the —Continued page from previous is a special place. to continue broadcasting high frequency (HF) high public comment on the need sideband voice, facsimile charts and text mes- seas weather forecasts for single HF NAVTEX). The Coast Guard required public comment sages over radiotelex (e.g. life necessary to provide these services had exceeded its because the infrastructure costs were involved to continue these services. expectancy and significant services, the Coast Guard’s “business case study” urged the continuation of these to continue HF weather broadcasts. The business concluded that it was necessary of Discontinuing USCG High-Frequency Radio case study, “An Impact Assessment Weather Forecasts” is posted at Broadcasts of NWS Marine www.navcen.uscg.gov/marcomms/high_frequency/HF-WX_notice.htm. the to their safety. There is no viable alternative to USCG HF broadcasts are essential present alternatives are perceived by the public to USCG HF broadcasts because marine weather forecasts available through these be out of financial reach. Also, guarantee the same level of accuracy, timeliness, alternative sources may not by the USCG HF broadcasts.” and/or sufficiency as provided replace the 20 transmitters used for weather broadcasts. mitters, funds are available to algae and marine life great success and many new sightings of corals, sponges, and around the submerged have been documented. To see the natural growth on concrete sculptures visit Or http://underwatersculpture.com/pages/gallery/underwater-gallery/index.htm. put on your snorkel and better yet, to Moliniere Bay on the island’s west coast, mask, and visit them in person. ting finale to saying good-bye — to both Haze and a whole time period. For when Haze and a whole time period. good-bye — to both ting finale to saying and the fishing by schooner or sloop in the islands, all cargo went he and I arrived forever. under sail. Nothing lasts fleets still set out of Directors of the Tobago stated that Heather Grant was a member of the Board Cays Marine Park. Heather says, “ There must have been a misunderstanding on his part when we were talking. I am not a board member of the TCMP and never After all, Haze, in creating Petit St. Vincent Resort out of a deserted island and run- island and out of a deserted Vincent Resort Petit St. Haze, in creating After all, of the people the lives of many had changed these years for all ning it perfectly him. the same without won’t be The Grenadines present. play a little Chester and friends got to long-time launch captain had, and PSV’s to Union directions. I sailed back then headed away in different music. People Island on MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 8 ● ● ● ● ● ● TYRREL BAYYACHTHAULOUT New environmentallyfriendlyhaulout Chandlery Mini -Marina Do ityourselforlabouravailable Water 50-ton hoist,18ftbeam,8ftdraft Tel/Fax: 473.443.8175 CARRIACOU [email protected] VHF: 16 both Discoveryand GLA Hotels. highly experiencedhotel operationsconsultanttomonitorthe performanceof cier andshareholder. AttheinitiativeofJohnJones,Doubloon hasrecruiteda remains theChairman ofDoubloonInternationalLtd.aswell asitsprincipalfinan- ence intheCaribbean. JohnJones,arealestateentrepreneur basedinParis, France, aleadingoperatorofupscaleboutique hotels,withconsiderableexperi- group passesfromthe“Development”stage to“Operations”. has announcedacorporatere-organisation toalignresourcesforfuturetasksasthe Marina andtheVillageatMarigotBay,St.Lucia,DoubloonInternationalLtd café PCsduringregularbusinesshours. Flynn. Theyofferbothhigh-speedwi-fi24hoursadayandfreeuseoftheirinternet daily orhourlychargesforinternetservice,there’snochargeclientsatErrol joined theexclusivegroupofbeachescertifiedforBlueFlagrecognition. In additiontothemarina,theirimpeccablymaintainedwhitesandbeachalso Riband ofmarinacompliance,makingonlyminimalimpactontheirenvironment. year —andisrightlyproudofthisachievement! Marina inPortAntonio,JamaicaisnowflyingtheBlueFlagforthirdconsecutive ure uptotheconstantscrutinyofrelevantratingcommittee.TheErrolFlynn that areintotalcompliancewithallenvironmentalstandards,andwhichcanmeas- Puckett explained. which givesagreateroverallefficiencytotheelectricaldemandsonboard,” tion systemscanbedesignedandengineeredintandemwiththegeneratorset, comprehensive solutiontoourcustomers.Avessel’sairconditioningandrefrigera- Technicold productswithNorthernLightsgeneratorswillenableustoofferamore pany’s goods,andgreatervaluefortheircustomers.“Thecombinationof ucts areknownforreliability,durabilityandsimplicity.” Puckett. ”Weputourhighestpriorityonengineeringandcraftsmanship.Ourprod- own,” saidNorthernLightsManagerofMarketing&SalesAdministrationColin ideal matchforNorthernLights. as wellcommercialfishermen,theTechnicoldreputationforqualitymakesitan conditioning andrefrigerationsystemssince1981.Widelysoughtbyyachtbuilders Beers Marine,Inc.RichMarinehasmanufacturedtheTechnicoldbrandofair Northern LightsrecentlyannouncedtheacquisitionofFt.Lauderdale-basedRich of nearly300factory-authorizeddealerslocatedintheworld’smajorportscall. Today, NorthernLightsboaststhreebranchoffices,globaldistributorsandanetwork able powerproduction,durablebuildandsimplicityofusemaintenance. mercial fishingindustry. ease ofservicebecamethegensetchoiceforthatregion’sdemandingcom- company soondevelopedamarinizedgeneratorsetwhoserobustdesignand industrial generatorsforAlaskanlodgesandoff-gridapplications,Mr.Johnson’s one ofthemarineindustry’smostrespectedcompanies.Startingwithaline Cooper Landing,Alaska,byHaroldWaltonJohnson,NorthernLightshasgrowninto 50th anniversarythisyear.Foundedin1958asAlaskaMarine&Equipment sets, Luggerpropulsionenginesandland-baseddieselgenerators,willcelebrateits BUSINESS Discovery atMarigotBayismanagedfor DoubloonbyGLAHotelsofParis, Following thesuccessfulcompletionandopeningofDiscovery,Superyacht Discovery DevelopersAnnounceGroupRestructuring For moreinformationseeadonpage17. And there’smore!WhilesomeCaribbeanmarinafacilitiesmaystillclingtohigh Errol FlynnisoneofonlythreeCaribbeanmarinasthatpresentlyholdthisBlue In theEuropeanMarineCommunitya“BlueFlag”iswatchwordformarinas Errol FlynnGetsBlueFlag For moreinformationseeadonpage6. Northern Lightsofficialsseeexcellentopportunitiesincross-brandingthetwocom- “We lookatthevaluesdisplayedbyRichBeersMarineasconsistentwithour As afittingmarkoftheircontinuedgrowthinthis50thanniversaryyear, The Luggerpropulsionenginefollowed,utilizingthesamecoreprincipalsofreli- Northern Lights,agloballeaderinthemanufacturingofmarinedieselgenerator Northern LightsExpandsinitsGoldenAnniversaryYear BRIEFS

—Continued onnextpage —Continued CHRIS DOYLE CHRIS MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 9 and repair Penn Reels Penn Parts Penn Service Snorkeling & Diving Gear Courtesy Flags Collectable Knives SINCE 1950 BEQUIA YACHTSPEOPLE FRONT STREET and ask for Stan or Miguel! ous parlons Français Wir sprechen Deutsch N SERVING FISHERMEN AND snorkeling and fishing gear. Leaders Fresh Bait Rigged & Unrigged Foul Weather Gear DUTY FREE The ONLY Duty Free Chandlery in Bequia The ONLY Duty Free Chandlery SS fasteners, rope, Spectra, pumps, hoses, complete diving, SS fasteners, rope, Spectra, pumps, Electronics, marine electronics, 12 & 24 volts, inverters, lights, Electronics, marine electronics, Some people call us the “most interesting shop in the Caribbean.” us the “most interesting shop in the Some people call spring, or a ladder? Come to us Looking for a table hinge, a hatch line with a lure just right for Want to catch fish? Get a simple hand all: suits, tanks, belts, masks, fins Diving or snorkeling? We have it Visit us for all your needs Phone/Fax: 784 458 3360 [email protected] Phone/Fax: 784 458 3360 Hablamos Español sockets, navigation, charts, guides, marine hardware, blocks, cleats, sockets, navigation, charts, guides, Wander around. You will find things you have been seeking for ages. will find things you have been Wander around. You accessories range of hardware as well as necessary We offer a wide and spares. time. and get the right screws with it one rod and reel to help you win the next the speed of your boat, or go for a in sharing our expertise with you fishing tournament. We take pride because we want YOU to succeed. lenses for the masks. and snorkels. We even have prescription St. Vincent & The Grenadines EMAIL: [email protected] Big Blue Building Wire, Floats, Nets, Twines, Ropes VHF 68; Telephone 784-457-3361 LULLEY‘S TEL: (784) 458-3420 FAX: (784) 458-3797 TACKLE SHOP TACKLE Icom VHF Garmin GPS Accessories Leatherman The Yacht Club, Bequia Marina, Port Elizabeth, Bequia, The Yacht Club, Bequia Marina, Port Elizabeth, Rods & Reels Anglers Lures FISHING & DIVING GEAR Penn & Diawa Mustad Hooks Open Monday to Saturday 8:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. Open Monday to Saturday 8:00 a.m. Water, Diesel, Ice, Bottled Water and Dockage available. Water, Diesel, Ice, Bottled Water and Dockage YOUR #1 CHOICE IN FISHING GEAR Our stock, quality, price, know-how and fishing experience is unsurpassed Look for the Bequia Marina needs REPRESENTATIVE

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BIMINI & DODGER SAILS & CANVAS In 2004, he embarked on a project to create a small, comfortable and seawor- In 2004, he embarked on a project to create a small, Perkins M92B engine. The result was the 6.5-metre Mayrik P214 MiniTrawler with will include the Mayrik In 2009, Kinard hopes to launch a powerboat race, which For more information visit www.mayrik.com and click on P214. As of January 1, 2008, Doubloon Services Ltd (DSL), the project development the project Ltd (DSL), Doubloon Services 1, 2008, As of January Discovery and Marina Village the job of selling the Having completed Village — a waterfront retail and commercial Finally, the completed Marina on page 14. For more information see ad Quantum Sails in Trinidad to anyone with a — now have an office in Quantum Sails — no stranger in Marketplace on page 53. For more information see ad Trawler? Crossing the Atlantic in a 21-Foot architect and boatbuilder who has been estab- Yves Kinard is a Belgian naval Come in and see us for all your e-mail: [email protected] VHF Ch16/68 Tel (784) 457-3507 / 457-3527 (evenings) (northern side of Admiralty Bay) Located opposite G.Y.E. thy motorboat with low fuel consumption, which would ultimately be able to cross thy motorboat with low fuel consumption, which would the Atlantic. to Saint Martin de Ré, near P214, racing from Saint Martin in the French West Indies One of the aims of the La Rochelle in France, with a refuelling stop in the Azores. to the need for real race, for which sponsorship is still invited, is to draw attention To promote this event, fuel in these times of dwindling natural resources. Mayrik P214 in the early sum- Kinard plans to make a maiden Atlantic crossing in his mer of 2008. ranging from sailing yachts to pleasure motorboats, and from fishing boats ranging from sailing yachts to pleasure motorboats, and to megayachts. team responsible for planning, construction and fitting-out of the hotel and marina the hotel and fitting-out of and planning, construction for team responsible an independent operate as and will now from the group de-merged facilities, proj- also Verity, who by John to be managed DSL continues group. ect development International in Doubloon significant shareholder and a Managing Director remains the existing supervision and support to to continuing to provide Ltd. In addition DSL is alsoMarigot businesses, and new St. Lucian hospitality reviewing a number of real estate projects. the group and is also de-merged from Real Estate Ltd (DREL) Apartments, Doubloon in partnership Managed by David Farrin real estate agency. now an independent projects in St of new real estate sales DREL will focus on a number with John Verity, villas and with developers to sell already entered into contracts Lucia, and has DSL on new DREL will work closely with in excess of US$50 million. apartments worth to developers. a fully integrated service projects, providing both the hotel and marina — has been placed complex at Marigot Bay serving to Bob Hathaway and his Marina management team under the management of between the Village facilities and develop the synergy and inter-dependence visiting yachts. in your new-sail requirements. Orders are designed Trinidad where they can handle Annapolis and made to the stringent Quantum specifi- the Quantum head office in their loft in Cape Town, . The Cape Town cations and workmanship at in the world and turns out large sails at a rate of 80 per loft is the second largest loft Quantum Sails in Trinidad! week. And now you can access 13 years. He has designed a variety of different vessels lished in Saint Martin for over —Continued page from previous MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 10 Beneteau Oceanis born andTrinidad-basedJeromeMcQuilkin’s at GrandAnse,lastyear’sclasswinner,Carriacou- Julia, Grenadian life-longsailorChampieEvans’Swan48 island’s southcoastin18knotsofwind.Although first raceonSaturdaybeganatTrueBlueBaythe Racing II,Cruising,J/24andCharterClasses,the Netherlands tookfirstprizerespectively. Charter Classes,sailorsfromCanadaandthe Racing andCruisingClasses,whileintheJ/24 with priorexperienceinthiseventdominatedthe andEurope.Localregionalyachtracers two-day WorkboatRegatta. Familiar Facesand QUIET CLEAN POWER o h 0entriesintheyachtfleet’sRacingI, For the30 Competitors camefromasfarVenezuela,North T a long life in a bullet proof package. a longlife inabulletproof ina6literengineensures Generating 135hpat amodest2600rpm make the M135acost effectivemake choice withsignificantowner savings over alternative engines. pricing, Competitive engine andparts andexceptionally intervals low service fuelconsumption extended integral plate inthetoughest sealsgivingprotection oilcooler conditions. andspecialcrankshaft temperatures for exceptionally reliable anddurable performance. Leak free operation isensured by an heatexchange Highcapacity tubestacksensure equipmentwithcupro-nickel low component operating points ineithersingleortwininstallations. designed to permitawiderange ofoperating anglesandalsooffers easyaccess to allroutine servicing The M135isanexcellent repower choice. initsclass, packages Oneofthemostcompact ithasbeen new 'QUADRAM' combustion system andfullyclosedbreather system. costs.service It’s operator andenvironment friendlywithlow noiseandlow emissionsachieved withthe This naturally aspirated engineboastspremium enginefeatures for reliability, minimaldown timeand Grenada SailingFestival2008 led theCruisingClassfleetacrossfinishline four-day keelboatseriesandDigicelforthe ship ofPortLouisMarinafortheevent’s through 29th,underthenewtitlesponsor- Sailing FestivalwasheldfromJanuary25th e1t annualdouble-barreledGrenada 14th he Light-Air Races Wayward, placed firstoncorrected Sabre M135 Sabre , , J/24 Class,anotherGrenadaYachtClubJ/24, 2008] Martinique” bySusanPayetta, the newlylaunched[see“LaunchinginPetite ing theCarriacou-built were joinedbyaPortLouisTraditionalClasscompris- offspectacularGrandAnseBeach,theyachts in CharterClass. chartered byR.PfeifferoftheNetherlands Henderson 35 Class I.AlsofromTrinidad,PaulSolomoninthe pered byPeterPeake,toppedthefirstraceinRacing Festival 2007,theTrinidad-builtSoca43 time. OverallRacingClasswinnerinGrenadaSailing Enzyme to theheadofJ/24s,and Blew ByYou by RobbieYearwood,theGrenadaYachtClub’sJ/24 2005 edition For theSaturday’ssecondrace,awindward-leeward M65 M92B M115T M135 M225Ti M265Ti M300Ti M65 M92BM115TM135M225Ti M265Ti Savvy and skippered byMarkSolomon,hadawin. . , Ambrosia — theevent’s2006classwinnerblew Margeto took theleadinRacingClass2.Sailed Enzyme, took theirsecondbullets.Inthe won theday. Margeto a classwinnerinthisevent’s Ambrosia, and Compass awr,Storm, Wayward, Jambalaya a Bavaria42 Storm, , February , took first

, and skip- ALL PHOTOS: TIM WRIGHT / WWW.PHOTOACTION.COM / WRIGHT TIM PHOTOS: ALL Call uson(284)4942830for adealer nearyou. pered byDaveTodofCanada,toppedtheJ/24s. Britain, correctedaheadof Beneteau First40.7sailedbyHughPringleofGreat Blue, withupsetsinRacingIwhen Saturday’s thirdracetooktheyachtsbacktoTrue named ‘BestoftheBest’ Below: RacingClassIIwinner, of RacingClassI Left: A Storm was brewing,anditswepttothetop Storm —Continued onnextpage —Continued Enzyme , and Jabulani , wasalso Combat , skip- , a MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 11 ; was Wayward Enzyme . ; Cruising, Jabulani Enzyme and J/24, from Carriacou was victorious in ; Racing II, Ambrosia; Storm Margeto Next year’s Grenada Sailing Festival will take Thanks to MaryAnn Hambly-Williams for informa- For complete results visit After four days and seven races, overall winners were: Traditional Class Left: One-design GSF16s surging toward the finish Above: Charter, Racing I, awarded the Port Louis Trophy as the Best of the Best. place January 30th through February 3rd. tion used in this report. www.grenadasailingfestival.com Wayward (Racing II), Blew By You . and Enzyme Jabulani (Charter: Moorings 44.3, Tempest and Andiamo (Racing I), David Cullen’s Grenada-based J/109 Jerry Stewart’s Carriacou-based Hughes Storm Storm, (J/24) and Bloody Mary, Ambrosia The last day of the Port Louis Grenada Sailing Festival The keelboats continued to race on the Monday with the Monday to race on continued The keelboats Menno Van Kommer, Netherlands). 2008 featured the optional Moet Pursuit Race from True Blue to Grand Anse, raced in very light airs. The race committee decided that, since the wind was so slight in Grand Anse Bay, instead of attempting triangles there they’d send the fleet back to the breezier south coast for the last race. The unseasonal wind pattern did provide a downwind start, great for spectators with all the spin- nakers in view. The final race’s winners on corrected time were Pocket Rocket, 38 Jabulani (Cruising), finishing within two seconds of one another in Race two seconds of one another finishing within line in each the first boats across the Five. In Race Six, first on corrected time: class were also Senior Champion team was Sauteurs, and the Skipper and the was Sauteurs, team Champion Senior of Ken De Roche captured by Year title was of the Petite Martinique. for all south coast Grenada’s triangles off two long its had completed which except Traditional, classes course was diminishing winds, the series. Due to J/24s saw shortened. The , joined YoYo! , as class First 10 Margeto Wajang, a Wajang, and #ARAIBE'REEMENT PAGPDF The Junior Sailing Champion team was Woburn, the The day’s one short yacht race allowed the keelboat short yacht race allowed the The day’s one gram. More than 30 indigenous workboats from Grenada’s fishing communities of Gouyave, Sauteurs and Woburn, and sister islands Carriacou and Petite Martinique, were contesting the Grenada National Team Sailing Championship titles of Coca Cola Junior Champion and United Insurance Senior Champion. New sails for the one-design GSF16s, in which the winning skippers in each class battled each other for the Digicel Skipper of the Year prize, were courtesy of United Insurance. The last workboat race was a real nail-biter, with the Woburn team passing the guys from Petite Martinique at the last mark to take the lead — only to capsize! competitors the opportunity to watch the workboat opportunity to watch competitors the in one — a buy a racing-crew place races, or even sailing pro- for the Junior Workboat fundraising effort winners on corrected time. winners on corrected a First 47.7 sailed by Spencer and Russell Whitworth Spencer and 47.7 sailed by a First I), and Britain (Racing of Great (Cruising) of Trinidad by Darcy Carr sailed Blew By You Enzyme, Ambrosia, —Continued page from previous off triangle course short Sunday, a deliberately On the Beneteaus more changes. coast saw the south MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 12 at theCareenageonablusteryday Barbados’s ultimatesingle-handerarrivingback on board.Andrewcircumnavigatedthe21-mile-long the senseboatingpeopleknowit—havingoneperson Barbados CancerSociety. Barbados onFebruary10thtoraisefundsforthe ment andpeopleafterhesailedsinglehandedaround gratitude andadmirationoftheBarbadiangovern- or caseofbeer. the winningcheque.Notyetanotheroutboardmotor Countdown self-designed and-builtfiberglasssloops regional regattassincethe1970sathelmofhis competitive yachtingcirclesforamazingvictoriesin theHeart from Burke’sSail Andrew This onewasperhapsthemostmemorableofall: Not atrophytoaddhisimpressivecollection. Barbadian AndrewBurke,wellknowninregional “Singlehanded” istheoperativeword.Notonlyin , haswonyetanotherprize. Nefertiti by NormanFaria

and NORMAN FARIA NORMAN after heroundedtheisland’snorthpointduring suit andwasactuallytwohoursaheadofschedule that day(upto30knots)buthetrimmedthesails up crewattheCareenage. trip’s endandhissonChristopherwaspartofthetie- to livefor.”Hewasembracedbyhiswife,Sally,at on (afteradiagnosis).Ikeepgoing.havesomething pressed thestarting-hornbutton. had earlierintheday,atAndrew’sspecialrequest, because ofcancer,presentedAndrewwithagift.He Xavier Greenidge,whohadoneofhislegsamputated enthusiastic andsometimesemotionalgathering. from theHeart”.“Wecandoublethat,”sheurged had beensurpassedinwhatwasdubbedthe“Sail closed thatthetargetofBds$150,000(US$75,000) Cancer Society,Dr.DorothyCooke-Johnson,dis- Sports Minister. what wecanaccomplishthroughsheerwill,”notedthe bration oftheindomitablehumanspiritandshows termed itaremarkableachievement.“Thisiscele- and MinisterofSports,Dr.EstherSuckoo-Byer, ing featwasgreatlyadmired. done itwithoutanyhands”,Andrew’sawareness-rais- Bridgetown, thattheveteransailor“couldhaveeasily him atbacktheCareenageHarbourincapital joined hundredsofislandersandtouriststowelcome recently foundinhisheart. He ispresentlyreceivingchemotreatmentforcancer der bladetostopthespreadofbrachialplexuscancer. see, in2005doctorsremovedhislefthandandshoul- by 14-mile-wideislandliterallywithonehand.You Of theactualsail,Andrewsaidwindsweregusty For hispart,Andrewsaid,“Inevergaveup.Lifegoes Many eyesweremoistenedaslittleseven-year-old In herremarks,HonorarySecretaryoftheBarbados Both theisland’sPrimeMinister,DavidThompson, Notwithstanding thequipofafriendmine,who igation andfundsraisedforhisisland’sCancerSociety Andrew celebrateshissuccessfulsoloislandcircumnav- Greeted byBarbadosYachtClubbartenderImor, anti-clockwise circling. life toyou! said theywouldconsiderit.. miles away)ifthetargetmoniesweredoubled,Peter Balliceaux (anislandintheVincentianGrenadines110 he wasnowconsideringsailingnon-stopBarbados-to- suggestion, madeinhisremarksattheCareenage,that Asked whetherthecommitteewouldlookintoAndrew’s cousin, saidinanintervieweverythingwentwell. Club, partoftheorganisingcommitteeandAndrew’s line by1600. 0600 andhewasbackattheCarlisleBayfinishing Idylle andformercharterboat.Thetripstartedat Andrew’s boat, Well done,Andrew!Wejoinothersinwishingalong Peter Burke,RearCommodoreoftheBarbadosYacht Regent One

, isa43-footBeneteau RENATA GOODRIDGE RENATA MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 13 . won Three Harkoms Auto World Express Routine Maintenance Š Professional Delivery Š won the & Main Class with Tony won the Jib & Main Class New and Used Yacht Brokerage New and Used Yacht Š ) and bought this boat instead to be able to ) and bought this boat instead , right on his heels. Authorized dealers . , including Doyle sailmaker, Mark Ploch,” cites , including Doyle sailmaker, El Presidente BAVARIA YACHTS BAVARIA www.horizon-yacht-sales.com Cayenne III Luxury Girl (11 boats) Mermaid Mistress Quickly (5 boats) www.horizonyachtmanagement.com www.horizonyachtmanagement.com Full Service Marinas , , Chris Schreiber, St. Croix, USVI (10) Secure Moorings & Dockage (7 boats) , Modified Beneteau 445, Christopher Lloyd, BVI (7) Technical Installations Technical (Beginner; nine boats) (Age 10 & Under; seven boats) , Thomas 35, Jeff Fangman, St. Croix, USVI (7) (4 boats) finished the event with an almost unheard of ten-point lead. “The key finished the event with an (Ages 11 and 12; four boats) (3 boats) , Beneteau 10R, Guy Eldridge, BVI (12) (Ages 13 to 15; eight boats) ST. CROIX INTERNATIONAL REGATTA 2008 CLASS WINNERS VALENTINE’S DAY REGATTA 2008 FLEET WINNERS VALENTINE’S DAY OPTIMIST REGATTA 2008 FLEET , , Chris Stanton, St. Croix, USVI (7) Orion (6 boats) , Fraito Lugo, Puerto Rico (30)) “We sold the Melges ( the crew is well experienced. “Six of our nine crew In spite of the boat being new, Jib & Main El Presidente IC24 Orion Beach Cat Auto World Express Overall Ivan Aponte, Las Palmas Sailing Association, PR (15) Red Fleet Ivan Aponte, Las Palmas Sailing Association, PR (15)) Blue Fleet Victor Aponte, Las Palmas Sailing Association, PR (35)) White Fleet Jonathan Woods, BVI Yacht Club, BVI (91)) Green Fleet St. Croix, USVI (15) DJ Lorshbaugh, Frederiksted Community Boating Program, For complete results visit www.stcroixyc.com Competition in the IC24 class was as hot as ever, however the Puerto Ricans Competition in the IC24 class St. Croix’s Jeff Fangman’s Racing I Three Harkoms Spinnaker Racing II Devil 3 Racer Cruiser Luxury Girl Finally, in the Beach Cat Class, the father-and-son team of Chris Schreiber Senior Finally, in the Beach Cat Class, Regatta is an event for junior sailors sailed at the The Valentine’s Day Optimist The BVI’s Christopher Lloyd’s highly modified Beneteau 445 Beneteau 445 modified Lloyd’s highly Christopher The BVI’s “OnDeck Ocean Racing out of St. Thomas wanted to get their Farrs race-charter wanted to get their Farrs Racing out of St. Thomas “OnDeck Ocean sweep in his Eldridge made a clean class, the BVI’s Guy In the Racer-Cruiser take our friends out with us,” says Eldridge. take our friends out with us,” used to race aboard Eldridge, as the secret to success. aboard all that chop...and going fast,” says skipper Fraito Lugo, was to keep the boat flat in for a fleet of eight IC24s now race-ready in Ponce. the man who’s responsible Sanpere, racing his home, match race with St. Thomas’s Paul Stoken aboard and Junior won after a heated fun,” says Schriber, at the tiller of Hobie 16s. “It was all good are competing in the St. Croix International Regatta. same time the big boats all three US Virgin Islands, the British Virgin Twenty-seven juniors, representing on Puerto Rico’s Ivan Aponte won the event Islands and Puerto Rico competed. His were calculated as the racing instructions dictated. points after two throw-outs if Nikole “Nikki” Barnes who would have placed first triumph was over St. Thomas’ to take the Top Girl prize. no throw-outs were allowed, but still rose to the podium the Spinnaker I class with a pick-up crew of talented sailors and a string of nothing and a string sailors crew of talented with a pick-up I class the Spinnaker Farr 40s that all eyes were on a pair of sleek show for their efforts. Yet, but bullets to in this class. also competed the word out John Holmberg. “So, we put if we’d help,” explains ready and asked for crew slots. US mainland and Caribbean 30 responses from the and received over the other by St. by Crucian sailors and Farr was crewed mainly In the end, one experience on some crew with spite of the Crucians having Thomians. In won.” board, we Thomians 10R, brand-new Beneteau

DEAN BARNES (helmed by St. J Walker [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] 15TH ANNUAL ST. CROIX INTERNATIONAL REGATTA REGATTA INTERNATIONAL ST. CROIX ANNUAL 15TH Four great locations, one great service management Four by Carol Bareuther 284 494 8787 268 562 4725 473 439 1000 599 544 3329

slices through the seas en route to a win in Spinnaker Racing I at slices through the seas en route to a win in Spinnaker KICK-OFF

outsmarted Mother Nature at the 15th annual St. Croix International 15th annual Nature at the Mother outsmarted , skippered by fellow Crucian, Morgan Dale), and successfully defended its champion title from 2007, but while the boat was successfully defended its champion title from 2007, but BVI Antigua Grenada St. Martin Yacht Management Yacht Horizon Horizon Yacht Management . . . Horizon Yacht a dedicated private management service , through 18- to 25-knot winds and five- to six-foot seas to a win in the to six-foot seas to a win to 25-knot winds and five- , through 18-

Devil THE C.O.R.T. THE Silver Thirty-five boats hailing from Puerto Rico, the US Virgin Islands, British Virgin Thirty-five boats hailing from Puerto Rico, the US Virgin The Devil 3 were able to really power Tactically though, “It all came down to the fact that we Three Harkoms the St. Croix International Islands and St. Maarten competed in this kick-off event for the Caribbean Ocean Islands and St. Maarten competed in this kick-off event the Culebra Heineken Racing Triangle (C.O.R.T. Series), which includes & Sailing Festival in April. International Regatta in March and BVI Spring Regatta Thomas’ Chris Thompson).” the same, the crew was new. “I’m back from college and able to race with my broth- the same, the crew was new. “I’m back from college and and former dinghy sailor, ers this year,” says Scott. In addition, high-school friend Larry Malanga, was aboard. ahead of the other Melges up on the downwinds,” says Scott. “This helped us stay 24 ( Regatta, held February 9th and 10th out of the St. Croix Yacht Club in the US Virgin Club in the St. Croix Yacht out of the 9th and 10th held February Regatta, — Chris on of the Stanton brothers it was the combined expertise Islands. In reality, their Melges 24, on jib trim — that powered calling tactics, and Scott the helm, Peter Devil 3 class, in the regatta’s most competitive II Class. The win, achieved Spinnaker Racing prize in this Cruzan Rum — the signature Chris his weight in also earned skipper sailing event. MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 14 Antigua, challengedeachothertoarace yachts thatweregatheredinEnglishHarbour, Regatta News Back inthe1960s,captainsandcrewsofclassic Antigua ClassicYachtRegatta (like theSt.Kitts-built12-Metre we expecttoseesumptuoussloopsandcutters Along withanexceptionalarrayofschooners, year’s AntiguaClassicline-up here), classyketchesandnobleyawlsinthis attracting between50and60spectacularlybeautiful one oftheworld’spre-eminentclassicyachtevents, Regatta wasborn,withsevenboats. skippers andin1988theAntiguaClassicYacht meeting aboard right dangerous,soCaptainUliPruessehosteda boats. Theclasswassounmatchedthatitdown- and wereplacedinCruisingClass3withthebare- yachts andtheClassicClasswasabandonedin1987. were graduallyoutnumberedbymodernracing yachts wereclassics.Astheyearspassed,classics Week wasformalizedin1967—thosedaysallofthe charter season.Fromthisinformalrace,AntiguaRace Guadeloupe andbacktocelebratetheendof Since then,theAntiguaClassichasevolvedinto However, thatyearsevenclassicyachtsturnedout Aschanti ofSaba Kate

with severalclassic

, shown CHRIS DOYLE CHRIS other islandsaremorethanwelcometojointhefun! next yeareveryonewantstobeback,andsailorsfrom Pitre toreachthemarinabeforedark.Wearesure took placeearlyenoughtoallowcrewsfromPointe-à- the racingwasoverandprizegivingceremony came downfromthenearbymountain.By1400hours, Bar inafriendlyatmospheremixingwithlocalfishermen. dinner servedontheharborjettynexttoTerminus hours everyonehadatryanditwastimefordrinks hands atsailingthetraditionallocalboats.By1800 crews whohadenoughenergyleftcouldtrytheir day. TheSaturdayraceswereoverby1600hoursand C’Fun, awindsurfingclubatVieuxFort. organized bytheClubNautiqueofBasseTerreand Twenty-one participantsenjoyedthetwo-dayregatta fishing harboralsomakethisregattafunforall. friendliness, andthebeautyofBayDupuysmall one JPK28capsizedandmonohulllosingitsmast. boats experiencedthesetricksduringtheraces,with rents playtricksifonedoesnotanticipateboth.Two as theSainteschannel’sgustywindsandstrongcur- Guadeloupe facingtheSaintes,wasawonderfulidea, area ofVieuxFort,atthesouthwesterntip Basse Terreisallabout.Theunusualselectionofthe guage means“forest/roots”whichisexactlywhat Fort, BasseTerre,Guadeloupe.ZionintheCréolelan- regatta tookplaceonJanuary12thand13thatVieux April 17ththrough22nd. of itsown. sailing vesselseachyear.Thisregattaistrulyinaclass visit www.zioncup.org. 3) 2) 1) RACING/RACING-CRUISING CLASS The ZionCup2008winnerswere: The windstrengthenedontheSundayandgusts The weatherwasfineandwindsmooththefirst The VieuxFortlocals’authenticityandnatural Stéphane Legendrereports:ThisinauguralZionCup Guadeloupe’s FirstZionCup For moreinformationseeadonpage17. The AntiguaClassicYachtRegatta2008willrunfrom 1) COASTAL &CRUISING o [email protected] or For [email protected] 3) 2) Griotte Marie Paulista Mac Village YouYouTo Oiseau duSoleil , First310,PascalDurand , J/120,JeanLucVasse , First27.7,ColetteErivan , Feeling10.40,FranckSoret , Muscadet,EricMichel , First305Q,DanésSébastien —Continued onnextpage —Continued MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 15 Vegas . Moniefa heard faint . Miramar Tillymint reached them, and — an Oyster 82 and had started a small fire ’ crew… Elethea route to Panama. The small open fishing vessel from St. Lucia had been drift- ing for 20 days without a working engine. In the early hours of January 26th, approximately 80 nautical miles off Aruba, the on-watch crew of cries for help, though they could not see another vessel. In the time it took the crew to drop sails, turn the yacht and head back upwind in 25 knots of wind to the incident position, the crew of the Vegas to attract attention. Unfortunately, their signal fire went out of control before Tillymint Vegas —Continued on next page Tillymint

ALEX NIKOLIC Ms. George has 36 children lined up on a rota sys- 36 children lined up on a Ms. George has For more information visit www.jhycantigua.com. Fisherman World ARC Yacht Rescues Drifting yacht World ARC 2008 is a new round-the-world The World ARC yacht On February 1st, schoolteacher Neikeisha George Neikeisha 1st, schoolteacher On February tem to participate in this weekly event. This is very in this weekly event. This tem to participate a vol- for Tanner Jones, who is heading encouraging to five dinghies untary team renovating Division. enable JHYC to form a Youth Bay, St. Lucia, on rally that departed from Rodney in the Caribbean in January 23rd. It will finish back late March 2009. Joseph of Princess Margaret School, Shamari Riley of Margaret School, Shamari Joseph of Princess Benta School and Verdanci Clare Hall Secondary with the Girls’ High School teamed up from Antigua aboard club’s Rick Gormley — participated in the the largest yacht in the fleet fisherman while en dramatic rescue of a Caribbean Antigua’s Young Achievers Club, a local initiative run initiative a local Club, Achievers Young Antigua’s young the island’s who is helping Pilgrim, by Clarence their goals. realize entrepreneurs hand at sailing. to try their six young recruits brought and Connell Baltimore Quinlan, Shemeka Ashley JHYC Secondary School joined Joseph from Pares Brian Turton onboard Commodore , fol- , first around Luxury Girl , , with Chris had some gear some had Chippewa Pipe Dream Three Harkoms Harkoms Three , Chris Haycraft: 2 hours, 18 minutes, , Chris Haycraft: 2 hours, 18 , Colin Rathbun: 2 hours, 17 minutes, , Colin Rathbun: 2 hours, 17 , Guy Eldridge: 2 hours, 17 minutes, , Guy Eldridge: 2 hours, 17 minutes, , the only IC24 entered, was close behind. , the only IC24 Luxury Girl Latitude 19 Pipe Dream 24 seconds 31 seconds 34 seconds The finish was a fetch from Norman Island to the a fetch from Norman Island The finish was 1) 2) 3) Sailing! Antigua Young Achievers Go joined forces with Jolly Harbour Yacht Club has Let’s go sailing! Young Achievers in Antigua team up with Jolly Harbour Yacht Let’s go sailing! Young Achievers in Antigua team up with Club members to get out on the water Island to starboard. to starboard. Island retired. this point and failure at hoist unable to Island, was side of Norman the back West the big waves. run in for the exciting its spinnaker at disappointed that he was afterwards commented ride exciting sleigh his crew the able to give not being for the in these ideal conditions he had promised Sirena 38 . The Island, was second round Norman Haycraft helming, surfing. Guy speeds of 14.4 knots while recording top new Beneteau First 10R Eldridge on his lowed in third place, with Presley King steering. lowed in third Latitude 19 Yacht Club House at Road Reef. Prizegiving was done at Road Reef. Prizegiving Yacht Club House the Governor Clair Burke, with by RBVIYC Commodore trophy to the win- presenting prizes and the annual corrected times were: ners. Overall winners and their , Legacy of Trinidad Crazy Horse Par-T-Time of Tobago , with the Governor on Risky Business Hard Play II , a Melges 32, with some top BVI of Barbados of Barbados Three Harkoms Chippewa of Barbados Challenge II Challenge II BVI Governor’s Cup The Governor’s Cup Race, held on January 19th, Five boats entered. Starting in Road Harbour, Boat Pool (weight of fish brought to the scale): Boat Pool (weight of fish brought Top Grenadian Boat: all their sponsors, The SIBT committee thanks Top Release Angler (3 releases): Matthew Armstrong Top Release Angler (3 releases): Top Release Boat (8 releases): The boats raced past Peter Island, rounding Norman First Place Boat: Armstrong aboard First Place Angler: Matthew Calase aboard Top Female Angler: Claudia Record Dorado at Spice Island Billfish Tournament Tournament Island Billfish Dorado at Spice Record billfish releases What with 90 great turnout! What a Carenage paraded through the This year the boats boat Nigel Hypolite, fishing on local was organized by the Royal British Virgin Islands Yacht Club and sponsored by his Excellency the Governor David Pearey. Tortola, they raced across the Channel to round Dead Chest to starboard. Christopher Lloyd’s Beneteau 445, board as crew, quickly took the lead and was first to set their spinnaker. Hot on their heels was Dave West’s especially Carib Beer and Island Water World. especially Carib Beer and Island racers on board. caught a bull dorado weighing 53 pounds to beat the caught a bull dorado weighing and earn an EC$1,000 long-standing tournament record and closing dinner held prize. At the awards ceremony the winners were: at the Grenada Yacht Club and a record-breaking 53-pound dorado at the 39th dorado at the 53-pound record-breaking and a 19th, 16th through January of this tournament, running 175 carrying Thirty-six boats was pleased. everyone to partici- at the Grenada Yacht Club anglers arrived Trinidad & with boats entered from pate in the event, the United Barbados, Martinique, Tobago, St. Lucia, competi- Grenada. By the end of the Kingdom and landed, 54 were released plus one tion, 15 blue marlin Two and nine white marlin released. sailfish released were and 11 yellowfin tuna dorado, one wahoo scale. brought to the the on their way to the start, allowing in St. George’s to view them public and media an opportunity to fish. before they headed offshore —Continued page from previous MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 16 unable tolocatetheremainingthree. crew broughtonefishermanaboard,buttheywere …jumped intotheseatoescapeflames. and Southern Princess,GreyLady,Harmonie,BlueFlyer age, joinedatfirstlightbyotherWorldARCyachts conducted asearchoftheareaaroundwreck- All theschoolchildrenonDutchsideofisland by theclubandSt.MaartenHeinekenRegatta. ing ofthe9thAnnualKids’ArtCompetitionorganized Maarten YachtClubinSimpsonBay,fortheprizegiv- 14 andtheirparentsteachersvisitedtheSint Sillem afterthelatterlostaracebymissingmark. Scarabelli helming.LucKnoltookthirdfromBernard the NorthSailsteamledbyErnstLooserwithAndrea Steyn dominatedonpoints.Secondplacewentto adjusted theirtrim. quickly orbroach.Competitivecrewsconstantly changes occurringinseconds,causingcrewstoreact speeds variedbetweenzeroand25knotswith protests. Thewindspresentedextremechallengesas Race JudgeSimonManleyheardanumberof Necol, AndrewRapley,servedasRaceOfficer,and changed boatstwiceduringtheevent.Principalof cal one-designboats(withthreeorfourcrew)and ment andsocialevents.Tenteamssailedtenidenti- returned totheSt.MaartenYachtClubfornourish- in St.Maarten. made theNecolRegattaanoutstandingevent island inverychallengingearly-Februaryconditions www.worldcruising.com. for Panama. the threemissingcrew. local timeofthesameday,havingfailedtolocate MRCC Curaçaocalledoffthesearchat1830hours vivor, SherwinJohn,wasevacuatedontothe area toco-ordinatethesearch.TheSt.Luciansur- Netherlands Coastguardship www.antigua-marina.com [email protected] Tel:+1 2684606054Fax: +12684606055 —Continued frompreviouspage —Continued Under thedirectionofMRCCCuraçao, On February2nd,enthusiasticchildrenagedfourto St. MaartenRegattaKids’ArtCompetition Frits BusandhisteamofRienKorteknieGarth Sailing tookplaceofftheairportrunwayand A strongrepresentationofthebestsailorson Necol RegattaaPeakinSt.Maarten’sLocalRacing For moreinformationonWorldARCvisit All WorldARCyachtsresumedtheircourse Falmouth HarbourMarina Strega , andaCoastguardSARaircraft.The Jaguar was senttothe Tillymint Tillymint Jaguar . ’s Optimist Classesatthe19thSailingWeekofthe… erously sponsoredprizes. School alsowonprizes. Hillside ChristianElementarySchoolandtheSundial a hugeboatmadeoutofrecycledmaterials;the Alexander Schoolwonfirstprizeforitsclassproject— Magda PrimarySchool(boatproject).ThePrinsWillem years old),andSophiaMaikefromtheSister Steven CloosefromtheSisterReginaSchool(9to11 Caribbean InternationalAcademy(6to8yearsold), 5 yearsold),SamanthaHeemskerkfromthe Boogert fromtheSisterMarieLaurenceSchool(4and winners ofeachcategoryare:Nadjavanden selected thewinnersforfouragegroups.Thefirst-prize Ruby Bute,AntoineChaponandLuciaTrifan(artists) help themtogetintouchwithsailing. goal istoinvolvethelocalchildreninregatta,and received theassignmentforthiscompetition,whose Young TrinidadsailorsdominatedtheLaserand Visiting TeamsatSchoelcherWeek,Martinique Thanks tothenumerouslocalcompanieswhogen- Judges PetraGilders(SintMaartenYachtClub), Regatta ArtCompetitionboatproject Sophia andMaikefromtheSisterMagdaPrimarySchoolinSt.MaartenacceptaprizefortheirHeineken —Continued onnextpage —Continued • ExcellentdockageforSuper-yachts • 30stern-toberths,alongsideberths • Electricity(110,220&3803-phase), up to350’LOA,21’ Laser Standards giving, whereLuisMeixnertookthirdplaceinthe Team St.LuciacelebratingatSchoelcherWeekprize- with fullmarinafacilities • Drive-downdock water, fuel,telephone&internet, cable TV,24hrsecurity, garbage disposal&washroom providing easyaccessforlarge shipments &marine services MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 17

 Navigating the good life Protected Harbor Nightlife Downtown Restaurant, Bar & Grille Beach Depth Up to 25 Feet at Face Dock at Face Depth Up to 25 Feet Foot Air Market 1 Minute by Open 24 Hour Security Gated Marina       Introducing the NEW Introducing PORT ANTONIO, PORT JAMAICA

Out of the Water Storage Up to 95 Feet Storage Water Out of the  Full Service Marina Travel-lift 100 Ton Sheds Paint Duty Free Zone in Marina Duty Free 24 Hour Fuel Specialists Engine and Part PROTECT YOUR INVESTMENT ON YOUR PROTECT       THE WATER THIS HURRICANE SEASON THIS HURRICANE WATER THE Errol Flynn MarinaErrol & Boatyard Flynn , with their Channel 16 Wesley Scott consistently II Restless es made for difficult shifts for difficult es made and gusts. finishes in the scored top-three to finish third in Optimist Class fleet of 65 a high-quality Tip made boats. Derek Poon third place in the podium in the under-12 category. and Anthony Matthew Scott at winning Alkins took turns races at the front of the Laser 4.7 class’s 21-boat fleet, with Scott eventually taking the event from Alkins with a race to spare. It was a similar story in the Class where the Leighton brothers, Stuart and James, regularly exchanged positions at the and Clara, Turtle arina.com • VHF www.errolflynnmarina.com Contact John Louis • 876-715-6044 • 876-873-4412 Contact John e-mail: info@errolflynnm The only 100-ton travel lift in this part of the only 100-ton travel The up to 95' in length. Caribbean, servicing yachts In the Laser Radial Class, 18-year-old Fred Sweeney just missed third place by a In the Laser Radial Class, 18-year-old Lucia Yacht Club and the St. The St. Lucia Dinghy Sailing Programme thanks the St. The Transcaraibes Rally to Cuba The 9th edition of the Transcaraibes Rally will sail from Guadeloupe For more information see ad on page 52. Rain showers and gusts up to 20 knots greeted the sailors daily. Near-shore cours- Near-shore the sailors daily. greeted up to 20 knots and gusts Rain showers Best wishes to Stuart, James and team-mate Aaron Barcant, who will represent Best wishes to Stuart, James Programme also sent a team to compete in the The St. Lucia Dinghy Sailing few points, putting him fourth overall. Luis Meixner, 16, in the Class few points, putting him fourth sailor, placing third. was the Team St. Lucia’s award-winning Lucia Olympic Committee for their continued support. nights dockage at Marina between March 29th and April 20th. Enjoying two free a free haul-out!), rally partici- Bas du Fort in Guadeloupe (monohulls are also offered and another two free pants will sail to Marina Fort Louis in St Martin, where parties at , then to Casa nights dockage await. Onward to the BVI, for three nights entertainment and three de Campo Marina in the Dominican Republic — special at Las Salinas and nights dockage included there. The next legs are to anchorages where seven nights free Bahia Las Aguilas. The final leg arrives in Santiago de Cuba, A gala farewell party, Cuban dockage give participants ample time for sightseeing. style, rounds out the adventure. dinghies strapped to the decks. —Continued page from previous in through 5th February 1st held Championship, Pan American …Schoelcher Martinique, four gold, from including two with six medals, home returning entered. classes Trinidad & Tobago at the Laser Radial Worlds in New Zealand this month. Trinidad & Tobago at the Laser eight young sailors and two coaches joining over a Schoelcher regatta, with their nationalities. The St. Lucians sailed to Martinique aboard hundred sailors of different yachts, St. Lucia Yacht Club members’ front before Stuart took the title with a race to spare. front before Stuart took the title At Schoelcher, the Opti Under-12 winners included At Schoelcher, the Opti Under-12 from right) Trinidad’s Derek Poon Tip (second in third place MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 18 UNCROWDED ANDUNUSUAL Southwest Cuba miles morethanfromLandsEndtoJohno’Groatsby N Since 1984 by ChristopherPrice D D from CapeHatterastoMiamiand200 That isroughlyequivalenttothedistance of Cubaisapproximately780mileslong. what Iamgoingtotellyou.Thesouthcoast ow, Iwantyoutothinkcarefullyabout E E S S T T I I N N BAREBOAT CHARTERS-FULLYCREWED -ASASAILINGSCHOOL A A eil etl hwr •AirTravel •HotelReservations •Moorings •Boutique •BookExchange •SurftechSurfShop •Diesel&Propane •Restaurant &Bar •Wi-Fi/InternetCafé •Showers •Laundry • On-siteAccommodation •RefrigerationWork • QuiksilverSurfwear • IslandTours •FibreglassRepairs • Ice&Water •RaymarineElectronics • VehicleRentals • Mechanical&ElectricalRepairs • DoyleSailLoft&CanvasShop Barefoot Yacht Centre &Marine Charters T T [email protected] www.barefootyachts.com I I O O N N S S Tel. 1-784-456-9526 /93349144Fax. 1-784-456-9238 difficult tofind. think thatthemarinaswouldbecrowded,withspace ports ofentryforvisitingyachts.Therefore,youmight coastline hasbutthreemarinas,whicharealsothe tance betweenSt.ThomasandGrenada.Thislengthy fast crow.Itisalsoabout200milesmorethanthedis- Part One: PO Box39,Blue Lagoon,StVincent,West Indies charter catsbasedinthemarina. that’s right,sixboats,andofthese,fourwerelocal western endofCuba,heldpreciselysixyachts.Yes, the onlyonein300milesbetweenCienfuegosand On December26th2006,themarinaatCayoLargo, —Continued onnextpage —Continued MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 19 —Continued on next page Between the cays and the mainland, sometimes a As cruisers, we have a taste for lonely deserted Clearing In Before leaving Antigua we had attended a talk given After 200 miles of rocky coastline with very few of rocky coastline with After 200 miles Public tranport in Cienfeugos marked, for all but 150 miles, by an outer fringe of cays which stand on the edge of a near-vertical drop to 14,000 feet. distance of 60 miles, is a vast shallow shelf, rarely more than 50 feet deep, which is also scattered with hundreds, possibly thousands, of cays. In the middle of this huge shelf is a deep inlet which carries depths of 6,000 feet almost to the mainland coast. There is a further narrow inlet called the Bay of Pigs (Bahía de Cochinos), of which some readers may have heard. places and it was these vast shallow areas that really tempted us to Cuba. Hence our decision to begin our cruise towards the western end of the island, at Cayo Largo, which is also a port of entry. by Commodore José Miguel Diaz Escrich, Director of the International Yacht Club at Marina Hemingway, Havana. His main objective was to encourage the own- ers and skippers of mega-yachts to cruise in Cuban waters. He was anxious to emphasize that Cuban entry regulations are no different from those anywhere else. beat-up affair with bits of steel re-bar sticking out and out sticking re-bar of steel bits with affair beat-up the every time your topsides to damage threatening rec- vessel”. While of a passing hit by the wake boat is Calder since might have improved that things ognizing by the cultural so attracted we were not reported, damage or degrada- to risk either of Santiago delights a miss. and we decided to give it tion to our boat Cuba curves the south coast of decent anchorages, San Antonio ending in Cabo away to the northwest, forms miles away. This long coastline more than 500 of which is the outer or southern edge a huge bay, At about 0430 I pressed the button again and was Arriving in Cuba Approaching Cuba from the east, across the However, Nigel Calder describes the harbor as the We were, in fact, lucky to be in these waters at all. waters at to be in these in fact, lucky We were, thereafter to the north and shortly We altered course was spent hand steering, but at least we were making good speed. enormously relieved to find that Otto was working per- fectly. Obviously we had experienced a temporary withdrawal of labor rather than a full-scale strike, but as we had both been up all night we decided to divert to Puerto Patillas in southern Puerto Rico in order to catch up on some sleep and check the steering thor- oughly. We anchored at 0800, hit the sack for three hours and I then carried out a detailed inspection and test of the entire steering system. I could find nothing wrong, Otto was working perfectly, so we hauled the anchor and set off again along the south coast of Puerto Rico towards Cabo Beata. Windward Passage, the first 200 miles is mostly steep- to with mountains rising to nearly 4,000 feet very close to the coast. There are, however, the odd little hidey-holes, such as Guantánamo Bay and Santiago de Cuba. I will keep to myself my opinion of what goes on at the former. The latter is Cuba’s second largest city, is a port of entry and also has one of the very rare south coast marinas. It has been described as the Cradle of the Revolution and as such is considered a “must” from a tourist point of view. filthiest he has ever visited, with the marina being “a apart from those — nothing. those from apart a very in out, while motorsailing second night On our to and refused failed totally our autopilot light breeze, us or the . way, either with in any communicate was “Otto” on without of carrying The prospect was made to an immediate decision unthinkable and This was Del Rey in Puerto Rico. divert to Marina place to have the nearest and most likely thought to be out. repairs carried of the night to 30 knots. Most of the rest the wind rose . We also bought the Lonely . We also bought Calder is quite emphatic that the only charts worth emphatic that the only charts Calder is quite to leave Antigua early in Our original intention was By mid-November our charts had not arrived. Upon Shortly before our departure it became necessary Throughout the week spent on anchor at Isolation En Route Bill had already warned us that on the Cuban south However, our isolation started much earlier than Planning root a few to Cuba had first taken The idea of going considering are those produced by the Cuban are those produced by considering this 1998 opinion may be Government, and although seen nothing of later pub- somewhat outdated, I have to disagree with his view. lications that has caused me that would take an order Therefore, by a devious route to Havana to London to plus money from Florida Antigua, the relevant Mexico to Havana and finally ordered about six months south coast charts were date. before our planned departure the window of opportunity December because, for us, a fairly small one. Our for sailing Cuban waters was around 12°N during usual annual pattern is to remain this means Grenada or the summer and, in practice, join the northerly migra- thereabouts. In November we Antigua for the winter. tion and base ourselves around hit by “northers”, The north coast of Cuba, frequently cruising area until April or is not considered an ideal early stage in the plan- May and this led us, at a fairly our objective would be to ning process, to decide that the first two or three cruise the south coast during months of the year. “chasing” the order we were told that they were out of print. Our friend Bill, who had already given us a con- siderable amount of useful advice about the Cuban south coast, told us that they were available in Toronto, but by then it was too late to re-order with any hope of them arriving in time. In the end, Bill lent us his charts and they proved to be invaluable. for us to have some fairly extensive electrical work done on the boat. This took twice as long as antici- pated and cost two to three times as much, but as the man said when he presented an extremely painful bill, “That’s boats!” Falmouth Harbor, the tradewinds blew at 20 to 25 knots, but predictably, very shortly after leaving on December 15th, they dropped to gentle breezes and our fast downhill run became a gentle amble. This included a total of 72 hours motoring when our speed dropped below two-and-a-half knots; our overall aver- age for the passage was barely five knots. coast we would have to get used to being on our own. Therefore, we were not entirely surprised by the very small number of boats we found on our arrival at Cayo Largo. expected. On leaving Falmouth, we headed west towards the bottom end of Nevis with two or three other boats within a mile or so of us. They then turned north towards St. Kitts while we carried on towards our next waypoint, off Cabo Beata, the southernmost tip of the Dominican Republic. We did not see anoth- er sailing yacht, or small vessel of any description, for the next nine days! As we passed to the south of the Mona and Windward Passages we saw a handful of large merchant vessels heading north or south, but Planet Guide, as well as making a visit to the Cuban as well as making a visit Planet Guide, of info. in London to collect a load Tourist Office years before and this had given us plenty of time for this had given us plenty years before and available pilot started by looking at the homework. We Nigel Calder’s number — and opted for books — two in Guide Cuba: A Cruising —Continued page from previous us! yacht -—and visiting British one other There was having Antigua and, morning from arrived that We had of the and harbors routes to the crowded been used us that clear to was immediately Caribbean, it Eastern completely different. going to be Cuba was MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 20 Chevy isearlyFifties. cars, someofwhicharewellover60yearsold.This Cuba isfamousforitslovinglypreservedAmerican started, andbetween2:30 we didnotgoashore.Shortlythereaftertheprocession on thepontoon,butclearlyhewastheretomakesure from theMinistryofInterior.Hejusthungaround find outforourselves. On theafternoonofDecember26th,wewereaboutto writing in seems wegotoffverylightly,becauseothervisitors morning wewerevisitedbyninemenandadog.It shoes, shookhandsandintroducedthemselvesbefore and helpful.Astheycameaboardremovedtheir and Agriculturepersonnel—werecourteous,friendly guards, thefrontierguardsandMinistryofInterior Katchor, September2007. [ took 30menandthreedogstoclearthemintoCuba! See “Cuba:FairWindsandFriendlyFaces”byBernie —Continued frompreviouspage —Continued The firstofficialonthesceneafterwemadefastwas All ourvisitors—fromthedoctor,tocoast Compass a fewmonthsagoreportedthatit ] PM and 10:30thefollowing with amagnifyingglass,wewereinstructedtoeatour gized fortheirlatearrival.Ouronionswereinspected two menfromtheMinistryofAgriculture,whoapolo- start cruising.Butnotquite…. impressive rubberstamp,andwewerealmostreadyto we did.Theyweredulyaffixedandcancelledwithan because thestampswerenon-adhesive.Fortunately, office andwewerethenaskedifhadanyglue, appropriate stampswereobtainedfromthelocalpost their forms. then satatthecockpittableandlaboriouslyfilledin they cameaboard,receivedwithgratitudeand outboard fuel.Copieswerehandedtotheofficialsas boat, fromplaceofbirthtoheightmasttype every detailwecouldthinkofaboutourselvesandthe we hadprepareddatasheets,inSpanish,whichgave number, buttheyfillthemin!BeforeleavingAntigua of theAtlantic.Theformsseemedtobeendlessin Cuba andanywhereelsewehavevisitedoneitherside getting downtosomeveryseriousformfilling. At 10:30thefollowingmorning,wewerevisitedby Our cruisingpermit,or This wasthehugedifferencewefoundbetween despacho, was prepared,the wehad. but wewereverypleasantlysurprisedbythedegreeof problems simplybecauseitwasn’tonour port. Hadwedoneso,Ithinkwouldhaveruninto wished, providingthatwedidn’tgointoanundeclared as manystopsandtakelongonthewaywe as restrictiveitmightappear.Wewerefreetomake cho “declared” becausethatwaswhatitsaidonour Marina Siguanea,about150milesdown-wind.Isay ed westwiththedeclaredintentionofproceedingto keep starvationatbayforanotherweekorso. and thecontentsofourfreezerwefeltthatcould from thebackdoorsofhotelkitchens,Chinesetins, of Chineseorigin.Anyway,withacombinationstuff a limitedrangeofcannedfruitandvegetables,mostly opened atourrequest,buttheonlystockconsistedof been ordered;however,therereallywasnoalternative. What arrivedborelittlerelationshiptothatwhichhad our choicewewerepromiseddeliverythefollowingday. might beavailablefromthecentralstore.Havingmade ager, whogaveusalistoffruitandvegetablesthat board basis,whoneedsfoodshops? in theircanteensandthehotelguestsstayonafull- two- tothree-weektoursofduty.Asthestaffareallfed hotel andservicestaffwhoflyinfromthemainlandfor residents, althoughthereisadormitoryvillageforthe of course,anairport.TherearenopermanentCuban which nowboastseightornineall-inclusivehotelsand, decided tocreateaninternationaltouristresortthere, uninhabited, atleastuntilthemid-1960s.Castrothen of thelargeroffshorecaysitwas,likealmostallthem, perhaps, oursmartestmoveoftheyear.Althoughone our decisiontomakealandfallatCayoLargowasnot, do someshopping.Atthispointwebegantorealizethat virtually outoffreshfruitandvegetablesneededto such rigor—andwithcharm. seen therequirementsappliedinsuchdetail,with elsewhere. Ontheotherhand,nowhereelsehavewe that Cubanrequirementsarenodifferentfromthose Commodore Escrichmayhavebeenrightinarguing At theendofentryprocessweconcludedthat standing thatwewouldnottakeitashoreforawalk. allowed tokeepourthymeplantontheclearunder- vacuum-packed salamiwithoutdelay,andwewere Three daysafterourarrivalatCayoLargowehead- Cayo LargotoSiguanea We thendiscoveredasmall,closed“supermarket”.It We weresavedfromstarvationbythemarinaman- And sotoprovisioning.After11daysatsea,wewere . But,asweweretodiscover,thiswasbynomeans —Continued onnextpage —Continued despacho despa- , MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 21 Most of the southern and eastern parts of Trinidad are still “old style” rural, with Most of the southern and eastern parts of Trinidad are Use your map and wind eastward through Erin and Moruga to Rio Claro and to Use your map and wind eastward through Erin and North Coast Day Trips weekday trip. The road from Port of to the north coast is another to numerous shark and Maracas Bay, the best known of any Trini beach and home clearest. This incredibly Beyond Maracas is Las Cuevas Beach, the calmest and the road across the moun- If you aren’t exhausted and the sun is still high, take west again. Arima also has Once in Arima, the Churchill Roosevelt will bring you One of the finest of Trinidad’s road trips is to Toco on the northeast point. Follow Gas is available in Cumuna, as is great local food at the Blue Restaurant. The The northeast coast is one of the few remaining parts of “antique Caribbean” “Forget about governments and world problems, be wary of crime, and be happy” In every perspective, Trinidad has good value for the boating buck, with inexpen- South, farther along the Butler, is San Fernando (“Sando”), the home of great the home (“Sando”), is San Fernando the Butler, farther along South, Southern Getaways excellent infor- in Port of Spain and has Department is located Trinidad’s to Pointe-à- Follow the main road signs have been installed. Pertinent direction the southeast point of Mayaro. This is on the Atlantic side and Mayaro is a tourist the southeast point of Mayaro. This is on the Atlantic that’s the only road, along a center with plenty of guesthouses. Drive north, since at Manzanilla. There are inex- palm-lined coast to another tourist center, the beach the beach towards Sangre pensive guesthouses available. On the rise leaving local favorite snack of “shark Grande is The Last Stop, an excellent place to get a Churchill Roosevelt and back and bake”. Follow that road and it will take you to the west to Chaguaramas. and the sugar industry have only a few oil and gas pipes visible. fields lunch spots along the routes. almost vanished. There are a lot of small breakfast and be purchased at roadside Fresh fish, shrimp, crab, fruits and vegetables can easily or go on to the next vendor. vendors. Always try to pull entirely off the road safely eat and drink while at the bake vendors, is packed on weekends. Trinis love to drivers haven’t really made it beach. Scotch is the beverage of choice. Designated roads are narrow and the yet, neither has the Breathalyzer or the radar gun. The drop-offs steep and deadly. Blanchisseuse where a river scenic road will take you to another great beach at for Fred’s place for a superb enters the ocean. This is a great spot for a picnic, or look lunch and cocktails. Centre, famous for bird- tain to Arima. This route will pass the Asa Wright Nature at the Centre. watching. Excellent meals and accommodations are available on Boxing Day). an excellent horse track for monthly races (especially the Churchill east to Valencia but take a left, rather than following it to Sangre Grande. Sections of this road are under repair, but it is also the main access to the quarries. Expect to see many dump trucks, but the drivers are usually cour- teous and safe. This road is incredibly scenic. The drive will pass an excellent beach and river intersection at Salybia, and a protected leatherback turtle nesting area at Ballandria. lighthouse at Toco is a definite Kodak moment. Follow the road to Sans Souci and many excellent, relatively deserted beaches. Break Bay in Sans Souci is the only surfing beach in Trinidad. Grande Riviere is another tourist enclave with upscale restaurants and everything associated. This road ends in Matelot, a traditional fish- ing village, but before is the unbelievably picturesque Shark River, a great place to bathe in fresh water. Trinidad, while the remainder tries to accelerate into the modern first world. In the north, banana farmers still haul bunches off steep hills on their heads or on don- keys. This area is still relatively safe and reminds me of Jamaica in the early Seventies. Everyone is friendly and helpful to tourists. You’ll hear soothing reggae rather than pounding hip-hop. should be Trinidad’s 2008 motto. In Trinidad, a true melting pot, everyone, Indian, Chinese, African, Continental and Latino, seems to get along. Sports like cricket and especially soccer are a great common denominator. Carnival every spring is the mainstay of the culture. Petroleum and natural gas are the protectors of the econ- omy. Enjoy the beautiful vistas and the many performing arts, but be careful. sive escapes from and yacht drudgery. —Continued page from previous of the oil The suppliers vendors. and hose specialized stores and hardware seems as no street left to a guide, here is best there. Driving companies are and gas styl- exit. For a totally to the Butler Sam’s, close is Uncle A great restaurant direct. occasion. celebrate an “the place” to Wall. It is do Soon’s Great or dinner, ish lunch restaurant is also in Sando. Jenny’s original all over available “registered” guesthouses They supply a booklet of mation available. a longer road your boat or the yard, take if you want to get away from the island. So be sorry. trip. You won’t road through Follow the same Wildlife Trust for sedate birdwatching. Pierre and the a usually quiet southwest point. It is estates to Icacos on the island’s huge coconut might be able to in the early afternoon you Gulf of Paria. If you arrive village on the get a deal on some fresh fish. Just you and the bamboo. Trinidad’s interior provides great getaways Just you and the bamboo. Trinidad’s interior provides from boatyard life PORT OF ENTRY PORT OF HAPPY HOUR 5-6 HAPPY HOUR TOURS ARRANGED MOORING FACILITIES MOORING BAR AND RESTAURANT WATER, ICE, SHOWERS WATER, CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED CREDIT CARDS CARIBEE BATIK - BOUTIQUE CARIBEE BATIK ... Sandy Island & Tyrrel-Bay www.scubamax.com • * Standard Air-Fills at PADI 5 [email protected] • Gear Rental Scuba and Snorkel • Special Group Prices for Sailors & 15 Specialties in English & Deutsch & 15 Specialties in English PADI Courses from Beginner to Instructor PADI Courses from Beginner • FUEL, OIL, WATER and ICE • Rendezvous Service for Sailors at Hillsborough, • am and 1.30 pm or individually Daily dives at 9.30 Phone/Fax (473) 443-7882 and VHF CH 16 Phone/Fax (473) 443-7882 Find us right in the town of Hillsborough! Find us right in the town VHF Ch 16 & 68 VHF Ch 16 (range limited by the hills) (range limited West Indies. Call sign: “Golf Sierra” VHF channel 16 ANCHORAGE WALLILABOU BAY HOTEL WALLILABOU at the cheapest prices in the Grenadines. WALLILABOU Reynold Belmar. Tel/Fax: (473) 443-9110 supplies of For further information call Glenn Clement or Welcomes you to Petite Martinique E-mail: [email protected] B & C FUELS A stepping stone as you Come alongside our splendid jetty and replenish your cruise through St. Vincent, Grenada and the Grenadines. Tel: (784) 458-7270 Fax: (784) 457-9917 Tel: (784) 458-7270 Your Expert Guide to Carriacou’s Best Diving Your Expert Guide P.O. Box 851, St. Vincent & the Grenadines, P.O. Box 851, TRAINING INSTRUCTOR MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 22 a differenttrip.Justwantedtoletyouknowtheyaretwoseparaterivers.—BB yield thewindswewerehopingfor;however, Tayana 42,called Gulf ofParia.Wewerejoinedbyfriendsonanother with hopesthatwindswouldriseasweventuredintothe en hueoverthewater,weheadedoutofharbour morning sunjustclearingthehorizon,spreadingagold- our waybacktoboat. officials whoquicklyprocessedourpapers,thenmade Chaguaramas whereweweregreetedbytheCustoms millpond surface.WehurriedtotheCustomsDockin tered onlybythebowofdinghybreaking age atTTSAinthedark,onaglassyplatformshat- an armoftheOrinoco,inVenezuela. T We sawthearticleinJanuaryissueonMacareoRiver(andknowauthor)butMánamoisquite With themotorbreakingstillnessofairand We madeourwaytoshorefromtheTrinidadanchor- Phone: +(5999) 4658936 Fax: 4658941 Email: [email protected] New marinecenterpresentsthelatestDutchinnovationinboathandling equipment. D D Curaçao Marine he daybeganat5:00 journey istakingusuptheMánamoRiver, wondrous journeyisabouttobegin.The a newdayandtimetogetmovingfor ows castoverthewaterfromshore.It’s ness. Thewaterwascalmwithlongshad- E E Sea Schell S S Hauling capacity45tonsandCatamarans upto33ftbeam. T T I I . TheGulfofPariadidn’t N N AM A A with ablackstill- T T I I O O N N Safe drystoragewith24hourssecurity We arelocatedinthesafeharbor ofWillemstad. AWLGRIP® indoorspraypainting S S and manyotherservices. - Long-termstorage. the Pedernalestownsitewherewesoonidentified seamless ocean.Atabout6:00 stand assilentghosts,blackstatuesinthemiddleofa rigs alongthewaytolookat.Theyarenowderelictand Gulf wentbyreasonablyfastastherewerenumerousoil motor passage.Theten-and-a-halfhourtripacrossthe blessed withcalmwaters,lightwindsandasmooth Of IbisandElectricity Mánamo RiverAdventure,PartOne: by BillBate www.curacaomarine.com PM we pulledinfrontof tered throughthetrees. songs, musicalinstrumentsandvoicesinharmonyfil- darkness closedin,thesoundofjoyousSpanish the currentsilentlychoosingwherewewouldsit.As military policeoutpostandanchoredjusteastofit. The boatswungupstreamandthendownstream, —Continued onnextpage —Continued MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 23 —Continued on next page The trip up the river was wondrous. It was obvious water mark, the shore was pushed back to the forest. we were heading into a land that few people, except the local Warao Indians, have seen. The forest was rich, lush green reaching from the water’s edge to a canopy. The Mánamo River was muddy and was obviously car- A modernized Warao home on the Mánamo River, boasting galvanized roofing instead of palm thatch, plus plastic A modernized Warao home on the Mánamo River, boasting bags, polyester clothes and electronic entertainment mation package about the river, done by previous cruisers. We were completely trusting in these as we had no official charts of the area. rying a lot of silt. This made it difficult to judge where sandbars might be and, because the river was at the high cambios excitedly who were also Alouette Alouette The homes, which were stilt huts along the river- along the stilt huts which were The homes, of outboard abruptly with the sound Morning came polite and welcoming, The soldier who served us was busy and the people The streets of Pedernales were On a side street we located a house with a sign Prior to leaving Trinidad we had purchased an infor- bank, began to darken giving us little view of our little view giving us began to darken bank, was music of distant The chorus neighbours. in to roost of egrets beginning by the cries enhanced trav- were no boats shore. There along the the bushes mostly still- no activity around us, eling on the river, setting our no sense of threat, simply ness. There was We were feel- quiet peaceful community. nest next to a about our not about our security, but ing anxious, the following up the Mánamo River travels: to begin and no no previous river experience day. We had to guide us. detailed charts began moving as fishermen’s pirogues motors starting and heading dock loaded with people away from the Mánamo River. We went out around the point for the quickly checking into the ashore with the intention of station, having a look at country at the regional police liquid refreshment stock. the town, and topping up our and us with next to no he with limited English just wanted to know the Spanish. We learned he destination, and he asked names of our boats and our was very informal and we to view our passports. It community. were soon free to explore the about the strangers showed only modest curiosity wandered the streets we arriving in their town. As we met the cruising family from —Continued page from previous exploring the town. The children on exploring the town. The children advertising canned liquid refreshments for sale. Their prices were about US$7 for a 30-can case of beer, soda pop or . Although we had sufficient Bolivars with us, we learned through the locals there were told us they had seen local children playing with a told us they had seen local of the town appeared as monkey. The main street much from the days of its though it had not changed lined with the fronts of sin- founding. The streets were variety of adobe style and gle-storey buildings with a western batter-board. The children were happily play- ing and everyone just seemed to be going about their day. It was Saturday and Election Day for the townfolk who were quite preoccupied with the election — a ref- erendum being put to the people by the government. in town which would exchange US dollars for local money at a very reasonable rate. With refreshments shouldered, we made our way back to our boats and headed upstream. MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 24 motorized dugoutcanoes Warao familiesvisitingElShaddaiinpaddledor birds covered90percentofthetreesoverspace Scarlet Ibis.Perhapssomethingintherangeof10,000 the southendofislandisanight-timeroostfor anchorage, similartoacrowdedhenhouse.Itturnsout a scarlethueandsmellbegantodriftoverthe hundreds andthesilverygreenfoliagebeganacquiring gressively largerflocks.Theflockswereeasilyinthe For thenexthouribiscontinuedarrivinginpro- tling ontheislandimmediatelynexttoouranchorage. small clustersofScarletIbisbeganflyinginandset- was approachingandthesunbeginningtoset, we hadeverbeenin.Spectacularbecause,justasdusk sheer luckatprobablythemostspectacularanchorage down toanchoratthesoutheastendofisland. Island (09°47.573N,062°16.714W)wherewesettled fascinating three-hourrun,wefoundourselvesatIbis us tofollowinthedeeperchannelsofriver.Aftera groundings whichbruisedtheegobutquicklyreleased more comfortablewithrivertravel,regardlessoftwosoft meandered uptheriverwefoundourselvesbecoming had previouslybeenusedforcattleranching.Aswe culture. Welearnedlaterfrom to timeasthoughtheareahadbeenclearedforagri- Beyond thebordertrees,openfieldsappearedfromtime —Continued frompreviouspage —Continued THAN AMARINA:IT’SHOME! IT’S MUCHMORE Visit ourwebsite:www.sbmarina.biz E-mail:[email protected] As eveningclosedin,wefoundhadanchoredby Over andoveragainourguestsrefertomarinaastheir“Home”! We monitorVHFchannels 16&79A(alpha–American system) • P.O. Box4540,Airport Road,SintMaarten,N.A.,Caribbean Wireless internet,banksandlaundry withinthecomplex Join usthissummerandcontinuetoenjoythehospitality. • Pick-up anddrop-off frommajorsupermarkets • Electricity: 220V/50amp;110V/300amps Tel: 599-5442309 Fax:599-5443378 (single phaseandthreephase) • Free satelliteTVateachslip • • WE OFFER: Fuel dockandbunkering 120 concreteslipberths • Telephone hook-up • • Alouette Shower facilities 24 hoursecurity • 16ft channel that thearea never seemingtohaveadefinitedirectionorgoal,making stantly flutteredaimlessly,dancingfrombushtobush, butterflies, aboutthesizeofaMonarchbutterfly,con- mittent callsofbirds.Brilliant,almostfluorescentblue motor off,theforestwassilent,brokenonlybyinter- through. Theeerinessgavewaytowonderment.Withour was darkandmustywithbeamsoflightbreaking ride thecurrentsilentlyintoforest.Theforestbottom going upstream,wecouldturnthedinghymotoroffand unobstructed. Wediscoveredthat,withthetidalflow deep intotheforestwideenoughfordinghytotravel natural drainagecanalfromtheforest,yieldedapath exciting orverydullaftersuchanextremeexperience. that therestofdaywasgoingtobeeithervery of bewildermentandawe.Wenowhadanexpectation the birdsweregone.Thehadleftuswithasense Within 15minutestheentirerookerywasemptiedand and thesoundofbirdstakingoffbecamearoar. by largergroups,untiltheentireskybecamedarkened ibis begantotakeflight,firstinsmallgroupsfollowed by firstlight.Inthemorning,exactlyatlight, planned tobeupandinthedinghycloserisland ly quietedtonearsilenceasdarknessclosedover. calling toeachotherwithintherookery.Thiseventual- sound wasacontinuousmurmurofbirdscooingand much evidenceofgreen,justamassscarlet.The 250 feetintotheisland’ssouthtip.Nolongerwasthere To ourdelight,adinghyrideupside We hadlearnedtheibisleaveatsunrisesowe caño , whichisa automatic washingmachineandelectricstove. Venezuelan government.Onehuthadacommunal mounted ontheirboats,werecomplimentsofthe that itkeepshisbeveragesfrozen. There werenoothercontents—themanwasshowing contained halfabottleofCocaColaandjugwater. family proudlydisplayedafull-sizedchestfreezerthat around atelevisionatmidday,watchingcartoons.One that toadieselgeneratorandfamiliesgathered huts theonlyprotectionfromelements.Contrast damentally nearStoneAge,withopenthatch-roofed itself andthelifestyleofpeopleappearedtobefun- consumerism hadhitthisvillagerecently. sions andCDplayers,showedtheelectronicage the generatorandwall-lesshomes,revealingtelevi- change washappeningbeforeus.Thefreshpainton the onlysourceofelectricpower.Asevereculture light bulbs,litbythegeneratorwhichappearedtobe on polesandstrungfrompoletopole,wereexposed sounds ofthevillage.Aboveboardwalk,mounted raised homes.Adieselgeneratordrownedtheother onto anelevatedboardwalkatthefloorlevelofstilt- friends from then askedforatouroftheirvillage. handed. Wegaveoutsomeflourandcookingoil ed necklaces.Buttheycame,forthemostpart,empty- that theywantedtotradeforwovenbasketsandbead- direction. Weslowedtheyachtandwereexpecting into dugoutcanoesandhurriedlypaddledinour thatched roofcoverings.Womenandchildrenclimbed same style,onstiltswithoutwallsandwithonly then themaincommunityofhutswhichwereall ple ofhutscutouttheforestandwidelyspaced, side, wasavillagetakingshape.Itbeganwithcou- under abrightsunandbluesky.Ahead,offtheport up theMánamoenjoyingamorningcupofcoffee Island andarepeatoftheibisexperience,weheaded made ourwayoutofthecañointomainriver. of themotordeafenedustosoundsforestaswe essary tomotorbackout,againstthecurrent.Thenoise of fruitsorfoodsthemonkeysmighteat.Wefounditnec- none werefound,andwerealizedthattheareawasdevoid our hopethatwewouldhappenuponatroopofthem.But anything thatmightindicateanearbymonkey,asitwas their routehighlyunpredictable.Welistenedcarefullyfor The electronicgifts,aswelltheYamahamotors It wasashockinglookatextremes.Thevillagein They agreedandwewentashoretogetherwithour After spendingasecondnightanchoredatIbis Sea Schell . Wemadeourwayuparamp —Continued onnextpage —Continued MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 25

RAIMUND DOEPEL Sea down through the islands and REAL SAILORS Street’s Guides are available the coast of Venezuela to the ABCs. STREET’S GUIDES Written by an author with 50 years of sailing at bookshops and chandleries, or from , noticed that a blackboard on the school wall a blackboard on the school , noticed that cover the Eastern Caribbean from Puerto Rico BUY STREET’S GUIDES experience in the Caribbean, the series’ four volumes Real sailors use Street’s Guides for inter-island and harbor Real sailors also buy the other guides, that have pretty Real sailors circle in Street’s Guide the anchorages that www.iUniverse.com and www.seabooks.com ARE MORE ECONOMICAL! We left this village with mixed emotions. The gifts of We left this village with mixed We pulled anchor and headed upriver seeking our Next month: Surprising finds farther up the river. Next to each hut was a big blue rain-catchment bar- a big blue rain-catchment each hut was Next to dedicated of the village was a hut Near the center —Continued page from previous piloting directions, plus interesting anecdotes of people, places and history. Street’s Guides are the only ones that describe ALL the anchorages in the Eastern Caribbean. pictures and describe hotels, bars, restaurants and anchorages that are popular with bareboaters. are not described in the other guides. This enables them to find quiet anchorages far from “The Madding Crowd”. the government are an extreme step forward in mod- the government are an extreme however, the villagers ernizing the villagers’ thinking; of surviving on the were being thrust from a culture and river, to a culture natural gifts of the forest fuel for their genera- requiring Bolivars to purchase Then, there is the deeper tors and outboard motors. people are exposed to tel- issue of social change as the bring dissatisfaction evision which will undoubtedly experienced a similar with their existence. We had land-dependent society in invasion of technology in a Canada, native Indians the past where, in northern and are now reported to were given similar “benefits” have rampant drug and alcohol problems. We felt an incredible sense of wrongdoing and destruction, as the elements to support modern technology do not exist here. We had also noticed in the village that some of the men were apparently quite inebriated at midday when traditionally they would have been out hunting and fishing for their families. next planned anchorage a short distance away where the cruising notes indicated howler monkeys and tou- cans had been seen. Schell of curi- printed on it. A large group had the alphabet pointed had gathered around. Melinda ous children by reciting and the children responded to the letters abandoned in Spanish. Suddenly the the alphabet school. This school hut became a functioning children and the school attracted more adults and laughed with excitement hut filled up. Many children of the alphabet and the as they called out the letters more relaxed with community immediately became the Warao are just our presence. We discovered beginning to learn Spanish. rel with large letters on the side saying “Chavez”. (At saying “Chavez”. on the side large letters rel with bal- in the river some children we noticed one village in using them these rain barrels, the lids of anced on nav- created some circular shape canoes. The place of igating challenges.) all pushed to However, the desks were as a school. not been we learned a teacher had one side and from number of months. Melinda, available in a MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 26 “water”. Ijustcan’tfaceabeerat6:20 man. Wearebothwearingaboutacupfulofpaintontheexposedpartsourbod- very baggyandthewomen’sarethreesizestoosmall—obviouslydesignedbya My husband,Hunter,iswearinganorangeT-shirtandshorts.Themen’soutfitsare orange tanktop,skimpyshortswithagauzywrapandanheadband. “Shipwrecked”. Whatapoornameforbunchofyachties!Iamwearingverytight three-week party. The pastthreeweeksofpartyingwasjustthewarm-upandcompetitions—reallya I chipovertothebeveragetruckandoneofguysholdsupabeer.mouth The bandNauticahasanauticalthemeandtheoverallJ’ouvertis I Rodney Bay,St.Lucia of yourfoot. fast. Chippingishardonthesolesofyourshoes,especiallyaroundball and theotherfootbarelyaboveground;forwardmotionissurprisingly Trinis dotomusic.Agoodchipperwillalwayshaveonefootontheground ping withourband,Nautica,fortwohours.Chippingisthestreetdancethat t issunriseonCarnivalMonday,February4th,2008,andwehavebeenchip- z AM Tel: . J’ouvertistheofficialopeningofCarnival. ( 758 ) 452 0299 Lubricants &Oils Bilge Pumps Marine Hoses Electric Wire &Fenders Chain &Rope Johnson Hardware Ltd. FOR YOUR MARINEHARDWARE, ANDMORE z Fax: (

758 STEVE MANLEY STEVE ) spectators. Soundtrucksaccompanythebands women incolorfulbeads,sequinedbikinisandfeathers—attractthousandsof of Spain,competingforthetitleBandYear.Themasqueraders—mostly Dancin’ inthestreet!OnCarnivalTuesday‘bands’paradethroughstreetsof Port that localsandtouristsalikeparticipateintheparadeofbands. withaDJ—thisiscalled“playingmas”.Auniquefeatureofparade ticipants dancethroughthestreetstosoundsofasteelbandormusicfrom up ofparticipantswhopayforcostumesfashionedbyadesigner.Thecostumedpar- yards. “Mas”isshortformasquerade.Carnival“bands”areorganizedgroupsmade minate inthelastfewdaysofCarnival.OurfirstoutingwastoMasCampsandpan back toTrinidadinearlyJanuaryenjoythecompetitionsandfestivitiesthatcul- crowds, loudmusicorstayingoutlate,butwelovedCarnivalinTrinidad.Wesailed competitions andiseverybitasmuchfuntheactualtwodaysofCarnival. Lent. ThemonthbeforeCarnivalisafrenzyofcostume,music,Calypso,Soca,limbo, farewell toflesh,andtheactualCarnivaloccursMondayTuesdaybefore ping paperisputinthetrash.Thewordcarnivalderivedfrom“carnevale”or The festivitiesforthenextyear’sCarnivalstartmomentsafterChristmaswrap- for Carnivaltheupcomingyearstartjustaftercurrentisputtobed. showers. By10:00 us tokindlywashthepaintoffatoutsideshowerbeforeenteringinside experience andwedonotargue. wear thebagwithourarmsinsideandtakeaseatinbus.Jessehasyearsof trash bagwithaholeinthebottomandinstructsustoputoverourhead, James (thelogisticalandtransportationwizard).Jessehandseachofusalarge national instrumentisthesteelpan. the standbyused50-gallonoildrumisnotconsideredexcessinacountrywhose of agiantstreetparty.ThereispaucitytrashcansandHunterspeculatesthat on certaintopographicalfeaturesmychest.Hunter’shandsarethesamecolor. In thefulllightweexamineourarmsandlegs—plentypaint.Hmm…handprints were explainedbynewspaperarticlesasanefforttoreducetheNovemberbirthrate. costumes wewereabitsurprisedtofindfivecondomsineachofourbags.These costumes withtheShipwreckedthemeandallareskimpy.Whenwepickedupour We are“playing”J’ouvertwithabout500othersinourband.Thereseveralother wheels ofsoundandwetrytokeepabitdistancethecomfortable. to theusedmotoroil. share anddecorateothers.Paintmudarefairlyinnocuous—atleastcompared man, whoiscoveredwithmudfromheadtotoeandhasapotofsohecan but cannotgetitinaforwarddirection.IjoinHunterchipping.Wedodgethemud something youwouldeverseeonNorthAmericanstreets.Icankindofgetthewine, This isnotsomethingtheNorthAmericanpelvisaccustomedtodoing,northis be donealone,butmostoftenendsupwithtwopeoplewiningagainsteachother. your waist”andisperformedbygyratinghipsinthreedimensions.Winingcan ies. Thisis“dirtymas”andpaint,mudoilarepartofthescene. 452 0311 I needtotellyouthatneitherHunternorarebigpartiers;wedonotlikelarge Trinis areproudtohostoneofthebestCarnivalsinworld.Thepreparations We returntothesailingclub(TTSA)whereweareanchoredandfindnotesasking Our chippingsagsaswereturntoourMascampwherearegreetedbyJesse The roadisspeckledandsplatteredwithpaintmud,showstheevidence We chipourwaytoreststop,wherewegrababitoffoodandlookfortoilets. Oops —tooclosetothesoundtruck.ThinkboomboxonasemiYes,18 Chipping isbrokenupbywiningandjumpingup.Winingshortfor“winding by DeviSharp Down theRoad Fishing Gear Snorkeling Equipment Flares &LifeJackets VHF Radios Stainless Fittings Stainless Fasteners z AM e-mail: [email protected] we arebackaboardourboatandreadyforanap. in Trinidad’s Carnival Chipping —Continued onnextpage —Continued Houseware & Cookware Hand &PowerTools Sanding Paper&Discs Epoxy Resins Paint Brushes Antifouling Paint MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 27 you will hear news about AM Zinc Anodes Plumbing Marine Paints Batteries Epoxy Antifouling THE SPECIALIST FOR BOAT MAINTENANCE IN MARTINIQUE Dimanche Gras on Sunday fea- Dimanche Gras held at Several of the events were fluffy boas. Each costume had a had costume Each boas. fluffy depicted char- often they name and and histo- of Trini mythology acters sea and other of the ry: creatures as themes, were popular animals cultures and different were the of Trinidad. roots of the people of the competi- tured the climax Kings and Queens of tions, as the vied for the title the various bands Queen of Carnival of King and Calypso artists com- 2008, and the title of Calypso peted for the We had seen the Monarch 2008. and felt it was time preliminaries field of well spent to see the full of competition. In the finals, several the costumes had added pyrotech- of the nics and lights. The costumes Kings and Queens are larger-than- sequins, life displays of colors, of the feathers, foil and glitter. Most costumes had an added infrastruc- to help ture of two or three wheels the wearer move about. which the Queen’s Park Savannah, covered has a large stage and was food grandstand seating. There toi- available and plenty of portable seat lets and you could leave your area. It and walk into the staging kids get was really fun to see the Le Marin Centre de Carenage 97290 Le Marin Tel: +596 (0) 596 74 74 80 Fax: +596 (0) 596 74 79 16 [email protected] The price of the tickets varied from as little as US$15 (per person) including trans- The price of the tickets varied from as little as US$15 The marinas have special Next year, Carnival will be February 23rd through 24th. actual Carnival date. You The Carnival events start about three weeks before the we were advised against Transportation to evening events is a challenge because If you listen to the VHF net on channel 68 at 8:00 We went to several of the daytime events by maxi taxi (public transportation) and We went to several of the daytime events by maxi taxi and clearly delight- Trinis were always friendly and eager to answer our questions Caribbean in their sailboat Devi and her husband Hunter are currently exploring the ready for the stage for Kiddie Carnival and to listen to the pan bands warm up. I Carnival and to listen to the pan bands warm up. ready for the stage for Kiddie venue. found this to be a very comfortable the daytime could be as portation, to as much as US$40. The street parades during and transportation for the little as the cost of a maxi taxi. We chose to get seats was US$15. Parade of the Bands on Carnival Tuesday and the cost advisable to do your research Carnival rates and they do book to capacity, so it is Sailing Association (TTSA) at and book early. We stayed at the anchor and easily found a place to drop our hook. that will come up in a can find a calendar and list of events on a variety of websites the local newspapers simple internet search. During the time leading up to Carnival, are a great source of information for upcoming events. in a hire van is far more taking public transportation at night. Going with a group There are at least two serv- economical than hiring a car and driver for the evening. and Trump Tours, who help ices in the Chaguaramas area, Members Only Maxi Taxi cruisers with Carnival logistics. Carnival events. owns Members Only Maxi used Jesse’s service for the evening events. Jesse James which events to attend. Taxi service and spent quite a bit of time helping us decide tries to get groups to events Jesse will buy the tickets for the events in advance and to ensure the safety of his early to claim good seats. He also goes to great lengths clients. I never felt unsafe or uncomfortable. carry much cash, but always ed that we were enjoying their Carnival. We tried not to cones or whatever great street had some money for bake and shark, corn soup, snow food we could find. Arctic Tern. & 14˚33N - 61˚03W DOCK, BAR Tel: (+) 596 596 66 05 45 Tel: CUSTOMS CLEARANCE Open 7/7 VHF: 16/68 e-mail: [email protected] RESTAURANT POINTE DU BOUT, MARTINIQUE POINTE DU BOUT, gas station: (+) 596 596 66 17 30 • deep water stern-to berth • water/ice/laundry • tel+fax+internet • gas station Right: Moko Jumbies are traditional folk characters that dance on stilts Right: Moko Jumbies are traditional Listening to pan music on a CD or radio cannot compare to watching a pan band Listening to pan music on a CD or radio cannot compare & Tobago and Trinis claim The steel pan is the national instrument of Trinidad a favorite, but I think I will We went to 11 Carnival events and it is hard to pick The Parade of the Bands takes place on Carnival Tuesday. The streets are closed streets are Tuesday. The on Carnival takes place of the Bands The Parade Above: The costume of the Queen is larger than life, with wheels to help the wearer Above: The costume of the Queen move about on stage Despair and Wings of Hope”, featured the world’s ecological disasters, such as oil Despair and Wings of Hope”, featured the world’s ecological of the future. spills, and used the children’s band to highlight the hope full and the group leader is play live for Carnival. The band is alive. The music is the leader looks like an aer- directing the band and is one with the music. At times watching the musicians. They obics instructor. One of the joys of pan music is just very diverse. You see men, are animated and move with the sound, they are also steelband competi- women, boys and girls. At the Panorama, the most prestigious was a nine-year-old girl. She tion in Trinidad (and the world?), the youngest player playing. We brought binoc- played flawlessly. The players smile a lot and clearly love close. Watching the audience ulars to the events so we could watch the players up dancing”; heads are bobbing, is also great fun. There is a lot of what I call “seat not get enough of the live pan chairs are rocking and arms are waving. We just could well as the Panorama finals. band music and attended the Panorama Semi-Finals as century. Drums and a vari- that it is the only new instrument invented in the 20th long time, but it was only after ety of percussion instruments have been around for a that they were cut down World War II when oil drums littered the ports of Trinidad Pan music is such an impor- and pounded into shapes that produce distinct tones. pans in grade school. Small tant part of Trini culture that children learn to play the bands and pan yards can be found in every neighborhood. is a costume competition always remember the Red Cross Kiddie Carnival. This for kids to start their carnival fund-raiser for the Red Cross and the opportunity too “Babes in Arms”, were very career. The contestants under the age of three, called by hot suits, bright sun cute but clearly did not get why they were being tortured got it and were hav- and a crowd. Some of the next group, three- to five-year-olds, for the judges and photogra- ing a great time dancing to the music and showing off and enjoyed being on stage, phers. The older kids were clearly having a grand time costume — none of us ever in costume and dancing. Don’t be thinking Halloween These are not bed sheets and trick-or-treated in costumes this elaborate or grand. off and the bands march through the streets of Port of Spain before the judging before the of Port of Spain the streets through the bands march off and Band the prestigious are vying for The bands of people. and past thousands stands there are say, but as the Trinis and beads” are lots of “bikinis title. There of the Year Cries of year, “Earth band for this The winning message. with a serious a few bands —Continued page from previous Barbados: It’s Worth It! by Jacquelyn Milman

any cruisers bypass Barbados because one must head into the wind when sailing there from the Caribbean. However, we picked a weather window with low winds and small seas, and made the trip in a relatively easy overnight passage from Bequia. We were very happy we did. Check-inM at the Customs and Immigration dock in Bridgetown was simple and straightforward. The anchorage in Carlisle Bay was good holding in sand, a little rolly but we put out a swell bridle. We were able to tie up the dinghy in the inner harbor next to Independence Square, convenient to the center of Bridgetown. One of our first impressions of Barbados was how clean it is. The water is cello- phane-clear and we rarely saw a piece of litter. Even the public bathrooms were won- derfully maintained. Another impression was of the lack of racial or ethnic tension. People were very friend- ly, helpful with information or problems, and ready to include us whenever we felt dis- posed to join in. The best word I can think of to describe this phenomenon is “peaceable”.

True Blue Bay Marina Resort & Villas

Dock, moor or set anchor at True Blue Bay located in the south coast of Grenada and enjoy our full service marina and fabulous accommodation. Caribbean cocktails and delicious dishes are a must at our waterside Dodgy Dock Lounge Bar and MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 28 True Blue Restaurant. Located five minutes walk from Spice Island Marine Services and five minutes drive from the airport.

Parliament is a landmark in Bridgetown

Getting around the island is easy. Car rental companies are numerous, their prices are reasonable, and they will deliver the car to your choice of location. While this is usually a hotel, since we were on our boat, we made arrangements to pick up at a dive shop. If you would rather not brave the roads on your own, several tour outfits provide trips to a variety of sightseeing spots. Taxis are plentiful and will also negotiate to take you around the island, usually at a by-the-hour rate. Aquanauts Dive Center But best of all is the bus system. The equivalent of 75 US cents (Bds$1.50) takes you to the farthest reaches of the island. We asked at the bus depot in Bridgetown Indigo Car Rentals & Horizon Yacht Charters about a bus just to go sightseeing and it was suggested that we take the bus to Bathsheba, a popular seaside resort and surfing area on the Atlantic coast. And on Sundays, there is a scenic bus tour. For only US$7.50 per person, we were treated to five hours of sightseeing. The bus picked us up at Independence Square at 2:00PM. We were surprised and delighted that our fellow passengers were all locals; VHF Channel 16 we were the only outsiders. Everyone, families and old people, was in a festive mood; most had brought snacks and picnic lunches; there was lots of chatter and laughter. 473 443 8783 When we showed a willingness to join in, we were readily included, and people were delighted that we liked Barbados. [email protected] The first stop was a beautiful, windswept area of the eastern coast, at Barclay Park. www.truebluebay.com Then we proceeded to Cherry Tree Hill, passing through fields of sugarcane and see- ing old mills, including one still-working windmill at Morgan Lewis Mill. Cherry Tree Hill seems to have no cherries, even though vendors were selling cherries at Barclay Park. Instead there is a large stand of huge old mahogany trees surrounding St. Nicholas Abbey, a planter’s house built in the mid-17th century. Then we passed through more sugarcane, some cotton and other , past fields of cows and black-bellied sheep (claimed to be the best lamb in the world), to Little Bay. Little Bay has a rugged coastline with fabulous blowholes. They spouted and fumed high into the air, sending salt spray back at us on the wind. —Continued on next page MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 29 We did walking tours in Bridgetown as well. The Parliament building is prominent. The University of the West Indies has a branch on Barbados and we took a stroll through There are several points of interest around the island. One which we had wanted to Just opposite the Reserve is Grenade Hall Signal Station and Forest. Grenade Hall There are many more places we could have seen and things we could have done, Our last destination for the tour was River Bay. This cozy spot is a popular park spot is a popular This cozy was River Bay. for the tour destination Our last that the bus revealed in the back of bossy lady loudly chatty, return trip, one On the of downtown in Bridgetown and the whole the time we arrived back It was dark by as well. It went one the following Sunday this trip that we took the We so enjoyed at Codrington College, a non-boarding school for the We then made a short stop would deviate to Bathsheba instead. We’d already been there, but today there was a would deviate to Bathsheba instead. We’d already been vendor stands, music, surfing competition so there were lots of people, temporary etcetera — a very festive event. We walked around, stopped for a beer, then wandered back to the bus at departure time. Across what is referred to as the inner harbor is Independence Square, once a parking lot, now a beautiful park. We visited the Nihde Synagogue, founded in 1654, the earliest constructed temple in the western hemisphere. An interesting place was the Pelican Art Centre, where local artists have shops. Some, such as a ceramicist and a woodworker, provide demonstrations. the pretty campus. Cricket is a major sport on Barbados and one can major in Cricket Management as a career choice. see was Harrison’s Cave, where you can take a tram ride through the cave. We’d been told it is a not-to-miss destination but, alas, it was closed for renovations. We did go to the Barbados Wildlife Reserve, another place well worth the time. You can walk through the Reserve and observe the wildlife in their natural habitat. There were many animals: the Barbados red-footed tortoise, deer, mara (a rodent that looks like a large rabbit), a variety of birds, caiman, snakes, iguanas, and the green monkey, brought to Barbados from Africa many years ago. The monkeys were our favorite, jumping from tree to tree, scampering through the reserve, performing antics to delight the visitor. was one of five signal stations that, perched atop various hills, could see each other and flew flags to signal the comings and goings of ships. The Forest had informative signs identifying various plants, their history and usefulness. but one would have to remain for several weeks and we needed to be on our way. But would we go back? In a heartbeat. where dozens of Bajans (pronounced “Bay-juns,” the nickname Barbadians call them- Barbadians the nickname “Bay-juns,” (pronounced of Bajans where dozens music sys- and a and drink vendors, picnic tables There were were gathered. selves) outing. for a Sunday a popular place It was clearly the clearings. up in one of tem set celebrate her 67th had missed last week to trips every Sunday, but she goes on these on the bus sang disclosed, the others family. With that information birthday with of birthday on the speaker system a variety Then the driver put “Happy Birthday”. driver, who told was taken up for the everyone sang along. A collection songs to which and information so he can provide history the areas of the tour us he researches about each locale. independence in observance of Barbados’s in blue and gold lights in was decorated the month of November. continues throughout 1966. The celebration of a lively tourist area called St. Lawrence Gap, full to Foul Bay, passing through and shops. Foul Bay has another beautiful beach beach parks, hotels, restaurants, we went to Three Houses Park, so named for the original with wind and surf. Then such only ones there at one time. On the way we passed three houses that were the the Silver Sands Resort, and the Concorde Museum points of interest as a lighthouse, to the Concorde in which Queen Elizabeth II came next to the airport, which houses Barbados. was was completed in 1743. Our final destination Anglican priesthood. The building we Ronald Marshall, said there was construction there so to be Bath, but our driver, —Continued page from previous Below: You can often see wild green monkeys in the countryside Above:: The Inner Harbour, with a new park on the far side, is part of a river bisecting Above:: The Inner Harbour, with a new park on the far the historic capital MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 30 Park websiteis:www.stxeastendmarinepark.org. ronment andtheimportanceofitspreservation.The new outreachefforttoincreaseawarenessoftheenvi- children’s programsandsnorkelclinicsarepartofthe Coral Reef.Tours,visitorcenters,summercamps, including Beach,Mangrove,SaltPond,SeaGrassand distinct ecosystemscanbefoundwithinthePark, by environmentalconservationorganizations.Several either theVirginIslandsorUSfederalgovernment, much ofthelandabovehigh-tidelineisownedby three miles.WhiletheParkhasnoterrestrialassets, island’s naturalresources,fromthehigh-tidelineout Management. ThePark’smissionistoprotectthe Planning &NaturalResources,DivisionofCoastZone Park, apartoftheVirginIslandsDepartment conducts eachmonthtoplacesfewtouristsvisit. Croix’s southshore,oneofseveraltoursthePark descent, willleadtoday’stourtoRobinBayonSt. third-generation CrucianofItalianandViequense ing to300AD.ParkrangerJohnFarchetteIII,a four definingcornersofapre-Columbiansitedat- those waitingunderalargetamarindtree,oneof near thestableruins.Anonshorebreezecools Park administrationintheolddistillerybuilding up, patchedupandreconfiguredtohousethe Farchette beginswithsomebackgroundonthe T Danish colonialruinshavebeencleaned Estate GreatPondplantation.The End MarinePark’snewheadquartersin and locals,meetattheSt.CroixEast wo dozenvisitors,both“transplants” ALL ASHORE… ROBIN BAY St. CroixEastEndMarinePark: though deerandwadingbirdshavelefttracksinthesalty,sandymud. nesting birdsandhatchlings.Atmid-morning,thepondispeacefulquiet, ate, providingfreshwateronsalinegroundforbirdsandanimals,protection ducing oxygen,absorbingandfilteringnutrientssedimentthereefcan’ttoler- Farchette explainstheimportantfunctionsmangrovesandpondperform:pro- Bay’s beach,pausingatafreshwaterpondlinedwithblackandwhitemangroves. rupt thevista.TheircarsparkedalongSouthshoreRoad,hikerswalktowardRobin restriction prohibitstheremovalofcoralorliverock. mercial andrecreationalfishing. habitat forvariousspecies.Swimming,divingandboatingareallowed,butnotcom- is permittedexcludingvehicles,horses,orfires.Gillandtrammelnetsareprohibited. Green, arefederallyprotectedandmaynotbeinterferedwithinanyway.Beachuse mitted within100feetoftheshoreline. fishing, castnetbaitandboating.Recreationallinefishingfromshoreisper- which arealsoavailableon-line: be enforcedoncesignageiscomplete.Fourmanagementzonesaremarkedonmaps, east end,about17miles.LegislationwassignedinOctober,2007,creatingrulesto Left: RangerJohnFarchetteIIIexplainsthefunctionsofMarinePark development. AccesstotheMarineParkwillbemaintained Above: RobinBayiscurrently‘allnatural’,but620acresontheshoreareduefor A shortdistanceeastofParkHeadquarters,fewsignshumanenterpriseinter- • Openareas(81.6%)Existingterritorialrestrictionsapply.Theonlyadditional • No-takeareas(8.6%)areestablishedtoprotectspawning,nurseryandresidence • Turtlewildlifearea(7.0%).Threespeciesofseaturtles,Hawksbill,Leatherbackand • Recreationareas(2.8%)aredesignatedforsnorkeling,diving,catch-and-release Established in2003,theparkcovers60squaremilesalongshoreofSt.Croix’s by EllenSanpere —Continued onnextpage —Continued MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 31 Today, Robin Bay is large and undeveloped. The beach Today, Robin Bay is large and nest on the beaches of St. Croix, though each species nest on the beaches of St. distance from the high has different preferences for very low for sea turtles in tide line. Survival rates are human population the natural world, and increasing nesting sites. Turtle eggs has reduced the acreage for dogs, mongoose, birds and are subject to predation by baby turtles must walk to crabs. Once hatched, the hungry scrutiny, and the sea under those predators’ as big fish and octopus there is no rest there either, prey. Farchette relates also find the tasty babies easy eyes out of several hatch- that a crab will poke the in circles until the crab lings, so they will walk around no stopping the turtles’ can finish them off. There’s them from negative natural enemies, but by protecting few more will survive to human impact, at least a and fires are prohibited on maturity. Vehicles, horses disturbances and tur- the beach, to minimize habitat tle nest destruction. is nearly pristine and offers nesting areas for sea turtles and 17 seabird species, including the endangered least Tours of other areas within the East End Marine Park include Rod Bay, Great Salt Tours of other areas within the East End Marine Park zones, restrictions and habi- See www.stxeastendmarinePark.org for maps of park Once, conch and lobster roamed the beaches, says Farchette, but in the 1930s, but in the says Farchette, the beaches, roamed and lobster Once, conch sight. He says no almond trees are in up a large almond, though Farchette picks in the sand: there is a shallow depression a spreading seagrape tree, At the base of for development of a resort, The 620 acres of land at Robin Bay were sold recently close to the ocean and see Many yachties are environmentally aware — they live or snorkeling where appro- Visiting the East End Marine Park on foot, and diving many wonders is to meet Listening to Ranger John Farchette speak of the Park’s Pond, Coakley Bay, the Nature Conservancy’s Jack and Isaac Bays (www.nature.org), Pond, Coakley Bay, the Nature Conservancy’s Jack and Coastal Reserve (www.stxen- and the St. Croix Environmental Association’s Southgate vironmental.org) at Chenay Bay. For information, call (340)773-3367. action strategies, and more. tat areas, and for an events calendar, programs, local When a pond or lagoon closes, due to nature or man, breeding areas vanish. Under areas vanish. breeding or man, nature due to closes, lagoon or a pond When infanti- rates and even mortality succumb to high fish species some such pressure, resource years of After several diminished. chain is thereby entire food cide. The to return. has started population decimated sprat Rock, the at Pelican management Later, population. out the near-shore wiped fishermen were developed, when snorkels and deeper to the fishermen to go further apparatus allowed underwater breathing lobster popula- prices, and the conch and Costs went up, but so did find their prey. this one Like many of the Park resources, depletion at deeper depths. tion suffered completely. livelihood disappears managed before the fisherman’s needs to be project. A base- is an essential ongoing lobsters and coral reefs Monitoring fisheries, industry. study of the local fishing in process, as is a socioeconomic line survey is them as they fly growing inland and drop transport the nuts from trees fruit bats will or fruit. the area and eat fish, mosquitoes Several bat species live in over the beach. be disturbed. Green, leatherback and hawksbill turtles a turtle nest that must not within the park for food, shelter tern. Approximately 400 species of fish rely on the waters but the snorkeling is good, and and breeding grounds. There is a strong current in the bay, the reef in the east channel. one can observe sea horses, among other creatures, inside Management unit is charged casino and golf course. The Virgin Islands Coastal Zone during and after con- with monitoring it closely to prevent environmental damage for public use. struction. Access to the Marine Park will be maintained Few, however, get to firsthand what happens when its ecosystems are not protected. It is protected by the largest see St. Croix’s south shore except from a great distance. no anchorages east of the island barrier reef system in the Caribbean, there are ignore the beautiful bays of Krause Lagoon industrial area, and the cruising guides considered for some areas on the East End’s south shore. Day moorings are being yacht is not recommended. the south shore, though entering the reef in a cruising offering Teague Bay and the The East End’s north shore is far more boater-friendly, small bays for settled weath- St. Croix Yacht Club, Green Cay Marina, and several of endangered marine er. Buck Island Reef National Monument, another preserve life, is one-and-a-half nautical miles north of St. Croix. history and biodiversity of priate, is a great way to experience the beauty, earliest be arranged easily. this special area. Transportation to the Marine Park can knowledge of his island. a passionate Crucian who gladly shares an encyclopedic Above: Ruins of the former stables at Estate Great Pond. Park headquarters is nearby Left: Local fishermen catching sprat with a cast net. Fishing for bait is allowed in the park’s recreation areas He identifies as a midden or trash dump an earthen area in the trees littered with He identifies as a midden or trash dump an earthen area white beach, Farchette Moving past a line of dried Thalassia grass on the powdery what looks like a man- Pointing to the sun drenched surf zone, Farchette indicates with bait fish, used to Down the beach, two local men cast a net and fill a bucket Looking south from the shore, the next landfall is Venezuela. In fact, Farchette is Venezuela. next landfall the shore, the south from Looking deeply imbedded shells and pottery. Much of the pottery is made from caliche, a deeply imbedded shells and pottery. Much of the pottery white salt-water clay used by later groups. that synthesizes calcium car- picks up a handful of Halimeda, a green macro algae Ecologist, explains that it bonate. Paige Rothenberger, the Park’s Marine Resource spores. Now brittle, it turns white and granular after releasing its reproductive sandy powder that makes washes onto the beach where it is crushed into the Crucian beaches so soft and beautiful. man-made, it isn’t rock or made concrete ledge under the breaking waves. It isn’t under a beach bordering a coral, he says, but an outcrop of sandstone. Often found sediment accumulating on landlocked freshwater pond, sandstone is produced from of the water, then pushed the pond bottom subjected to pressure from the weight out under the boundaries. three-inch silvery fish as yel- catch snapper and barracuda. Farchette identifies the to shore in the evening to low-billed sprat, favorite food for the snapper that come which breed in the shallows. lay eggs before predators arrive. Birds also eat sprat, says, potsherds have been found on St. Croix that are of every pottery style found in pottery style are of every St. Croix that been found on have says, potsherds water to provided fresh Inland wells habitation. Paleo-Indian indicating Venezuela, Croix. He on St. at every watergut been found have settlements early populations; archeo- missed in the “This one was of pottery. up a piece at one and picks pauses It is made of red- for demonstrations. he says, and he keeps it hidden logical survey,” He suggests paint and a burned edge. with an indication of white dish brown clay, Orinoco Basin by the Saladoid (pre-ceramic a ground clay vessel made it was part of fiber. He then and used to carry cassava in the first century BC, seafaring people) toxins. There are and cooked to remove raw cassava must be treated explains how and car- on St. Croix, some pre-ceramic, pre-Columbian sites known at least sixty last Amerindian and Carib were only the 3240BC. Taino, Arawak bon-dated to who shot one of tale of an Indian woman here. Farchette tells the groups to live sap when they with toxic manchineel tree using an arrow coated Columbus’s men like her, he 1493. Had there been more exploring Salt River in were “discovered” today. says, we’d be speaking Taino —Continued page from previous MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 32 Phone: (58-281)267-7412 Fax:(58-281)2677-810VHFChannel 71Webpage: Dinghy Accessories * Waterproofing * Aqua Signal*Imray lolaire Charts Apelco *Harken *Sta-lok316SSRiggingCordage * West System*Shields Weblon *Clear Vinyl *Canvaswork Supplies*MarincoGarminUniden Boatlife *StarbriteCampZincsMarinePadlocks *OrionSunbrella Racor * Wix *Shurflo*Johnson Pumps*3-MFlags *Perko *JabscoGroco Seachoice *Marpac Teleflex * Tempo *RitchieBreeze * Whale * Ancor Marlin BottomPaint *DelcoUnderwaterMetalKitZ-SparCetolMercury NEW ICUT NATGAABTEL ANDCARIBEDINGHYS DISCOUNTS ON ARTIGIANA BATTELLI CORNER OFMIRANDA &GUARAGUAO, -al [email protected] Standby E-mail: VHF Channel72 EEHN:(8 21 6-84 FX (58)(281)265-2448 FAX: (58)(281)265-3844 TELEPHONE: ■ A marina internacional T XANADUMARINE: El MorroTouristComplex Lat. 10°12 No hurricanes270sq. milesofcalmseasFullamenities http://bahiaredonda.com.ve E-Mail:[email protected] ' 24"N Long.64°40 AMER ON ■ ABC 3 Puerto LaCruz THE CRUISING BY OUREXPERIENCEDSTAFF • PERSONALIZEDATTENTION MAINTENANCE PRODUCTS CHANDLERY • REPLACEMENTPARTS& SINCE 1990 TIN FREE SAILOR’S ANTIFOULING P ■ PUERTO LACRUZ,VENEZUELA Venezuela ' 5"W AINT was unbeatable Carriacou RegattafounderJ.LyntonRigg.Formanyyearsthe44-footsloop Mermaid quitoes andfliesthathaveflownfromshoremade bit ofagroundseafromthenorthwest,fishermenonbeach,andplentymos- — butitwillworkawhilelongerifIstayoffoftheracetrackandoutstorms’way. ticular aboutthecolorofmypatchwork—riglikeapairpatcheddenimjeans Thomas, ifheisstillinthegaffmainindustry.InmeantimeIamnottoopar- overlook them. ty ofbugseitherinsomesemblanceorderorIhavebecomemyopicenoughto beer atUS$3.50acasehere,carriedfewofthoseaswell. orpumpkinpieImightaswellbegivingthanksbygoingouttosea.Andwith Juangriego onThanksgivingDay,figuredthatastherewashardlyanychancefor Juangriego, IslaMargarita,boundforTortugaandthenbacktoLosRoques.Left what asix-packofbeerwillgetyou,farfromthebeatentrack! crew andIcaneatdaily.Thisistheonlyplacewhereanylobster—amazing powerboats fromnearbyCarenero. time, mostlyFrenchandGermans,butonweekendstherearetwiceasmanylocal duration. Notmanyothercruisershere,atamaxtherehavebeenfiveboats not includeboatmaintenance.MybrotherBruce(oftheyacht for US$25,000!Itapparentlyfellintothehandsofayoungfellowwhosehabits did on themarketafewmonthsagoforUS$2,500afterhavingbeensoldfiveyears ago right nowthannewbottompaint,aslongIstayawayfromdirtywaterharbors. isapproachingits20thanniversaryaboardandactuallymoreimportant emulate theirefforts,andalsohopeIwillnotneedanotherhaul-outverysoon: my through theYucatanChannelinordertogetbackEurope.Ihopedonothave to wind, theeffectsarenotsorestrictive,hencenecessityforfleetsofyoretopass their ships’bottomstomakeanywaywindward.Fortunately,whilesailingdown- ly difficultforcrewswhohadtocontendwiththemigrationofmarineorganisms to other shellfish,butpriortotheintroofcopper-basedantifouling,itwasundoubted- in thesiltywatersoffofMargarita.Itmighthavebeenswellasasourcepearlsand clear offthecropofbarnaclesandothermarineorganismsthathavethrivedsowell and portside withredVenezuelan Saqui-Saqui. of thebottomreplaced, starboardsidewithmostlydarkbrown Guyanesesilverbali Compton andAlwyn EnoeandZephrinMcLarenIhave doneon but italsocontains a prettyinterestingblogkeptupbymy sister-in-law Janet.) 20 yearsago.(Check outhiswebpage,brucesmithsvoyage.com, ifonlyfortheart, ashtray isfullonanewcar. have decidedthatifaboatleaksatallit shouldbetradedin—kindalikewhenthe when Iconsiderhowmuchwatersurrounds thehull.Seemsthatnewcrowd worked out.Ineversteer,andalthough doabitofpumpingitisreallynotsomuch a loteasier),butaftermorethanthree decadesaboardIhavemostofthekinks not gettinganysmallerafter31years,and —approachingmy61stbirthdaynot masts andriggingwereprettybeat.Idid honestlyconsideritforawhile( the BequiaSlipsometimeinmid-1980s, toldmethehullwassound,though Foxy’s 2007)whohelpedfinishbuilding Carriacou Sloop Sitting hereonCayoHerraduraDecember3rd,2007,withabsolutelynowind, Need anextmainsail;willgetquotefromManfredDittrichonHasselIsland,St. After almost31yearsaboardtheCarriacou-built Time passesslowlyandsmoothlyhere.Plentyoffish,catchingasmuchmy I wasatonepointveryclosetobuyingtheBequia-builtschooner No particularplans,andhappywiththat.Divingthebottomdailytryingto Needing someslow-lanelife,andlobster, It wouldbeverydifficult forsometodetectanyoftheimprovements Bernard Bruce hasbecomeveryepoxy-oriented,having givenawayhiscaulkingironsover Notes froma was builtatWindward,Carriacou,byZephrinMcLarenin1964for by JohnSmith At Last , underthetreeatcornernear Mermaid Mermaid Mermaid —Continued onnextpage —Continued , Ihavegotthemajori- Woodwind got underwayfrom their homeforthe At Last Mermaid , winnerat Mermaid . Itwent

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RAIMUND DOEPEL Mermaid Mermaid’s anchor as she gets never did have much of a , which came in here a few days Mermaid’s Mermaid Panda readers might enjoy: namely the life and times of an was one of the last vessels to load salt from the ponds of was one of the last vessels to load salt from the ponds Compass Mermaid www.caribbeancompass.com Caribbean Compass We’re on theWe’re Web! Sending this out to you from aboard the From here, I will drop back in to Higuerote to re-supply and then sail back out to My best to you all. I believe that I am trying to fit a few hours every day towards the writing of some letters and arti- I am trying to fit a few hours every day towards the writing The garboards I replaced in Florida in 1984 with two-and-one-half-inch yellow with two-and-one-half-inch in 1984 in Florida I replaced The garboards Compass On-Line • Advertisers’ Directory • Check It Out… Tell Your Friends! Your Compass On-Line • Advertisers’ Directory • Check It Out… Tell Now in full-time cruising mode, friends help haul underway at Juangriego, Isla Margarita, bound for Tortuga and Los Roques underway at Juangriego, Isla Margarita, bound for Tortuga Los Roques for a few months. wood, it had the added advantage of being able to dissolve. In those days wood, it had the added advantage of being able to dissolve. the hull would probably have did leak a lot and if she had sunk with a load of salt, popped back to the surface in a few days’ time! form of a huge library, sink- fancy interior, but now that most of my ballast is in the ing would be a real disaster. like this I think that I would ago. Many thanks to Mike for the fresh water; in places of wind and sun for electrical prefer a watermaker over an engine — there’s plenty Aussies and drink beer, but power. In lieu, I guess I will just have to make do as the beer sure makes toothpaste taste strange. It might be good for boiling shrimps but is not so good for making pasta. engineless cargo sloop’s captain trying to make a living in the closing years of the engineless cargo sloop’s captain trying to make a living reading. After all, it was 20th century. It’s all true, and might prove to be interesting charcoal, salt, timber, all about going sailing and just carrying on. I have carried thousands of small palm paint, coils of line, fruit, grafted mango and avocado trees, carried it. Never made much trees, honey, pollen, wax, salt fish — you name it, I one would believe that I used money, but it was legal and kept me sailing. I bet no sacks of charcoal and home- to sail into the dock in Gustavia, St. Barts, to unload or that when I sailed made pottery from Nevis (confessions of an old pot smuggler), a few tons of ironmongery into Port Antonio, Jamaica, the first time I was carrying project in Aruba and had no that I had picked up cheap from the completed dock problem selling to the local hardware stores. was boarded by a DEA team Sandy Ground, Anguilla. What a scene it was when I crystals in crocus sacks? in Ponce, Puerto Rico. I mean, 2,000 pounds of white after tasting a bit from Those folks did not have much sense of humour, especially help to preserve each of the hundred-pound sacks. Not only did the salt cles that I think cypress. The mast was replaced in 2001 and the old Douglas fir mast became a new fir mast became old Douglas 2001 and the replaced in The mast was cypress. of air- in Sint Maarten Peter Spronk guidance of under the The gaff was built . I am light hollow . very stiff and making for a and epoxy, plywood craft-quality of new pine. Dozens is of Norwegian like the mast, which, my third , now on I used grown iron mangrove, while aft mostly of Carriacou frames and knees and many, many for the lodging knees, vitae (Guaiicum officional) Jamaican lignum are hard to see Many of these things threaded rod throughout. meters of stainless made some mis- through the bilges. Sure I aboard and have a crawl unless you get I think all of my serious screw-ups. a lot and have replaced takes, but I learned I prefer not the old girl, and just because would still be proud of Zeph, her builder, crowd is no rea- Heineken Regatta Antigua Classic or St. Maarten to race with the this fine old ship. son to condemn —Continued page from previous MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 34 Fair tides! after itsrising,thetiderunswestward.Timesgivenarelocal. setting tojustafteritsnadir,thetiderunseastward;andfromnadirsoon reaches itszenith(seeTIMEbelow)andthenrunswestward.Fromjustafterthemoon’s the eastsoonaftermoonrise,continuestorununtilaboutanhourmoon passage (orzenith)ofthemoonforthisandnextmonth,willhelpyoucalculatetides. Street’s GuidesandcompilerofImray-Iolairecharts,whichshowsthetimemeridian passage fasterandmorecomfortable.Thetablebelow,courtesyDonStreet,authorof 02330 2247 2202 20 2123 19 2021 18 1924 17 1823 16 1721 15 1620 14 1521 13 1426 12 1335 (new) 11 1246 10 1158 9 1110 8 1022 7 0932 6 0841 5 0748 4 0656 3 2 1 TIME DATE March 2008 For moreinformation,see“TidesandCurrents”onthebackofallImrayIolairecharts. Note: themaximumtideis3or4daysafternewandfullmoons. Water, Donexplains,generallytriestoruntowardthemoon.Thetidestartsrunning Crossing thechannelsbetweenCaribbeanislandswithafavorabletidewillmakeyour MERIDIAN PASSAGE OF THEMOON MARCH &APRIL2008 1408 1309 1214 8 1122(new) 7 1034 6 0946 5 0859 4 0811 3 2 1 TIME DATE 0721 April 2008 0630 0539 31 0447 30 0356 29 0307 28 0221 27 0136 26 0054 (full) 25 0012 24 0000 23 22 21 00736 0650 0602 30 0514 29 0423 28 0332 27 0241 26 0157 25 0103 (full) 24 0017 23 0000 22 2333 21 2251 20 2210 19 2128 18 2045 17 2000 16 1910 15 1816 14 1717 13 1615 12 1511 11 10 9 in Florida and marinafeeshaveincreasedovertheyears,pricesarestillafractionofthose The yachtinghubofChaguaramasistheplacetogetthingsdone.Althoughboatyard Bad LuckinaGreatPlace people whowillhelpyouinalmostanywaypossible. 87.8 FM. Channel Sixhasan uninterrupted latemovieeverynight.It isalsoontheradioat drum musiccanbeheard on94.7.YourTVantennashouldpick upfiveTVstations. show everyTuesday. Popcornanddrinksareveryinexpensive. with DolbysoundonlycostTT$5aperson! Whenweareonisland,dothenoon bargain stillexistsattheGlobeTheaters. OnTuesdays,usuallytwofirst-runmovies selections. Foruniquefooditemscheck out Peppercornsinthemall. now. TheHiLogrocerystoresinCocorite andWestMallareexpansivewithexcellent a boxlunchwithCokeforTT$8atWest Mall.You’dbeluckytogettheboxforthat while sippingaCaféAmericanoisasgood asitgetsattendegreesnorth. where. Relaxinginanair-conditionedshop readingthemanyTrinidailynewspapers rocket-fuel caffeine,sinceevolvedtolarger particles.RitualCoffeeshopsareevery- Nescafe wastheonlygameintown,buttasty. Then,Nestleshadthefinelypowdered comers DominoandPapaJohn.Whatisnewcoffee.WhenIfirstarrived,Nestles’ multiplied. PizzaBoys,Joe’sandMario’sofferadequatepizzawithStatesidenew- of abeer(Carib)hasdoubled.Qualitylivestagedramasandcomediesareavailable. place toseequalitycalypsoperformersatareasonablecost.Unfortunately,thecost replaced theworldlyPelicanClub.MasCampPubisnowDeNuPlaceandstill the with plentyofveggiedishes.Upscalenightspotslike51DegreesandZenhave able cuisines.Trinidad’sfoodisthefreshestandhealthiestofanyCaribbeanisland, with excellentambiance.Oriental,Indian(roti),andbarbecuearestillthemostavail- addicted tocellphones.BankinghasprogressedwithconvenientATMs. There arecelltowerseverywhere,soreceptionisgood.AlmosteveryTrininow can getoneinexpensively.(Gettwoprepaidphonesandusethemaswalkie-talkies!) check forboatparts.Butnow,twocompaniesviethecellularbusiness,soyou ice stores. beyond theyachtbasin.Almostanythingyouneedcanbehadatvariousserv- most things,likealternatorsandpumps—especiallyreasonablyifyoutravel TRINIDAD TODAY T Trinidad hasthebest radioofanyislandIknow.Greatvintage calypsoandsteel Movietown isanotherextravagantareawhere moviefareisastheStates.Agreat Malls likeWestandLongCircularhave become extravagant.In2000,Icouldget McDonald’s hasdisappeared,butSubwaysareeverywhere.KentuckyFried Restaurants liketheKapok,Jenny’s,andCrewsInnhaveallremainedgreatvalue In 1999Iwastedalotoftimeandquarterssearchingforworkingpayphoneto You cangetfood,hardware,paint,upholstery,tools,andhaverepairsdoneon by RalphTrout with suchaboomingeconomy.Yetitisstillcharmingislandoffriendly Trinidad. Aftereightyears,I’dsaythereisnowhereelseintheCaribbean dentally” madeTrinidadmyhome.Duringthetimesince,I’vewatched adventure describedinlastmonth’s hrough thecarcrash,hospitalization,andasubsequentprotractedlegal Part Two: Compass , thisformercruiserhas“acci- —Continued onnextpage —Continued MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 35 ARBOUR 284 495-5685 H Fax: 284 495-5706 ACHT Y VHF Ch: 16 Full Service Marina Facility during hurricane season. Web: www.vgmarina.biz LEAVE YOUR BOAT ORDA G located within convenient walking distance. IN OUR CARE THIS SUMMER 284 495-5318 495-5318 284 Tel: 284 495-5500 laundry facilities, and an office of the BVI Tourist Board all in IRGIN fax facilities, free wireless internet access, fuel, water and ice, offering insurance approved hurricane pits to secure your vessel Our facility located in the heart of beautiful Virgin Gorda comprises a pristine and relaxing environment. BVI Customs and immigration chandlery, restaurant, bakery, clothing store, dive shop, phone and Onsite amenities and services include a bank/ATM, a supermarket, V a 111-slip marina and a boatyard with 12 acres of dry storage space

ROGER WEBB AM till 6:30). The PM —Continued on next page Trinidad has two main expressways. The Churchill Roosevelt Highway runs east to Follow the east-west Churchill Roosevelt Highway to where it intersects with the The first exit on the southbound Butler expressway is for the Caroni Swamp, Farther south along the Butler, at the Medford exit is another Pricemart Plaza that Budget Marine and Dynamite Marine Services have expanded, to every sailor’s Budget Marine and Dynamite Marine Services have Getting Around a good map at one of When you need a break from the boatyard, first purchase Ask people where Like any big city or island, there are sections that are dangerous. and least expensive of any- Traveling by taxi or maxi is easy, perhaps the easiest you can find good and Green Corner takes you to the heart of the capital where (US$14.50) a day to TT$175 Rental cars have almost doubled in cost from TT$90 years the roads have Driving in Trinidad has always been thrilling. In eight Timing is everything, especially in Trinidad’s traffic. Start your trips after 9:00 Boatyards and Marinas Boatyards and the reasonable of labor is still but the cost in Trinidad, is rampant the amenities, at Chaguaramas, with all a top-shelf marina Despite the increases, still managing Chuck and Joann are haven’t changed much. Boatyard personnel is the new sundowner hotspot, The Bight at Peake’s Sails restaurant, at Power Boats, west and the Uriah Butler Highway intersects and heads south. Every corner of the island has a unique personality. From Port of Spain westward to Chaguaramas is urban. Butler at a bulging mall, Grand Bazaar. This is an excellent place to provision at Extra Foods. where flocks of Scarlet Ibis can be viewed every evening. Boat trips to see the birds are worth it. is less pressure and price than Movietown. It has a Friday’s and Ruby Tuesday restaurants. For those who still wonder “Where’s the beef?”, there is also a Burger King. On the other side of the flyover (overpass) is the best deal for lunch in Trinidad, The Foodbasket. This is an excellent place to come to refill both galley and belly. Above the spacious, very reasonable grocery they have a delicious weekday buffet lunch for TT$25. A bit further south is Chaguanas, a great place to reasonably refill your clothes locker. morning traffic is coming into the capital and the evening’s is exiting. The road to Chaguaramas is packed in the evening, as there is only one road to the commuter suburb of Diego Martin and it is crammed with cars. Go to the beaches on weekdays and avoid the weekend crowds. and try to be away from Port of Spain during rush hour (from 4:00 benefit. Marine Warehouse can still get what you need when you need it. Customs benefit. Marine Warehouse can still get what you need the postal service, is efficient and Immigration are still friendly and efficient. TT Post, Post offers an insured “quick and all services can be had at Coral Cove Marina. TT service” that competes reasonably with Federal Express. the bookstores. and keep a grip on your bag. not to go, and believe them. Tuck in your gold chain expanded, as has traffic con- In 2000, there were areas to be avoided, and they have I have on some other islands, gestion. I’ve never felt racial tension in Trinidad, as wary of my surroundings but I don’t feel totally safe here anymore. I’m constantly days and definitely not walk and people. I wouldn’t walk alone in the parks these Today I’d be easy pickings. home late at night, as I did years ago with a slinged arm. cocaine.) But it is still safe (I blame it on ’s weapon of mass destruction, enough to travel around and see the sights. vehicle for hire, noted where in the Caribbean. Always make certain it is a legitimate people trying to earn extra by the identifying “H” (hire) plate. “P” (private) cars are the fare will be to your des- cash. Scrutinize the driver and passengers and ask what in the main city, Port of tination. From Chaguaramas there are two main drop-offs Spain: Green Corner and City Gate. City Gate is the main trans- inexpensive dentists, doctors, shopping, and cinemas. anywhere in Trinidad. If fer hub and from there you can get a maxi taxi to almost and get out. Another car for your driver takes chances with your life, have him stop, marginally increased. hire will be along in a few minutes. Taxi fares have only a gallon. {We recently (US$28) and upward. Gas is reasonable at TT$9 (US$1.50) more than the rental!} rented cars in St. Lucia and Grenada — the gas cost almost doubled and Trinis widened by one lane, but the number of auto owners has cleaned. These are com- are still litterbugs, knowing the roadsides are regularly monsense warnings while driving: Keep your jewelry to a minimum and your doors locked. Never even think of picking up a hitch-hiker. Locals know they will seldom see a police officer interested in their speed or maneuvers in traffic, so be cautious and sober on the roads. Buckle up, it’s common sense and the law. —Continued page from previous fees have and marina Boatyard better trained. is now workforce yacht-service and air-conditioning increases for including in eight years, dramatically increased one-time used to be a fees, which is chocking biggest change units. The dehumidifier Power Boats stands on a quarterly basis, currently charges for the payment. IMS and water as fee. All offer free electricity and Peake’s has a daily charges monthly, live aboard. long as you don’t yards and mari- dock in Florida. Today, all half what it would cost to charges about regulations with each yard for specific services and security. Check nas have better hauling. and costs before right-hand man Boats. The Lancers, with Stollmeyer is guiding Power IMS and Don Carl is still on at Tropical Marine. value and friendly assistance Wayne, offer good the docks at CrewsInn. pool tables at Tropical Marine’s Wheelhouse are busy. remains excellent, and the remodeled and a great place to get fresh seafood. Hummingbird Marina is completely Once away from the urban areas, Trinidad takes on a different look Once away from the urban areas, Trinidad takes on a

MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 36

INSTRUCTOR INSTRUCTOR TRAINING P.O. Box851,St.Vincent&theGrenadines, Your ExpertGuidetoCarriacou’sBestDiving Tel: (784)458-7270Fax:457-9917 cruise throughSt.Vincent,Grenada andtheGrenadines. Come alongsideoursplendidjetty andreplenishyour ENTERPRISE A steppingstoneasyou B &CFUELS E-mail: [email protected] Petite Martinique Welcomes youto For furtherinformation callGlennClementor supplies of Reynold Belmar. Tel/Fax:(473)443-9110 WALLILABOU at thecheapestpricesinGrenadines. WALLILABOU BAYHOTEL ANCHORAGE Call sign:“Golf Sierra” VHFchannel16 West Indies. (range limitedbythehills) VHF Ch16&68 Find usrightinthetownofHillsborough! Phone/Fax (473)443-7882andVHFCH16 Dailydivesat9.30amand1.30pmorindividually • RendezvousServiceforSailorsatHillsborough, • FUEL, OIL,WATERandICE • PADI CoursesfromBeginnertoInstructor & 15SpecialtiesinEnglishDeutsch SpecialGroupPricesforSailors • ScubaandSnorkelGearRental • [email protected] Air-FillsatPADI5*Standard • www.scubamax.com Sandy Island&Tyrrel-Bay ... CARIBEE BATIK-BOUTIQUE CREDIT CARDSACCEPTED WATER, ICE,SHOWERS BAR ANDRESTAURANT MOORING FACILITIES TOURS ARRANGED HAPPY HOUR5-6 PORT OFENTRY from boatyardlife Just youandthebamboo.Trinidad’sinteriorprovidesgreatgetaways get adealonsomefreshfish. village ontheGulfofParia.Ifyouarriveinearlyafternoonmightbeableto huge coconutestatestoIcacosontheisland’ssouthwestpoint.Itisausuallyquiet Pierre andtheWildlifeTrustforsedatebirdwatching.Followsameroadthrough trip. Youwon’tbesorry. the island.Soifyouwanttogetawayfromyourboatoryard,takealongerroad mation available.Theysupplyabookletofavailable“registered”guesthousesallover Jenny’s originalrestaurantisalsoinSando. ish lunchordinner,doSoon’sGreatWall.Itis“theplace”tocelebrateanoccasion. direct. AgreatrestaurantisUncleSam’s,closetotheButlerexit.Foratotallystyl- and gascompaniesarethere.Drivinghereisbestlefttoaguide,asnostreetseems hardware storesandspecializedgaskethosevendors.Thesuppliersoftheoil frompreviouspage —Continued sive escapes fromyardandyacht drudgery. omy. Enjoythebeautiful vistasandthemanyperformingarts, butbecareful. mainstay oftheculture. Petroleumandnaturalgasarethe protectorsoftheecon- especially soccerare agreatcommondenominator.Carnival everyspringisthe Chinese, African,Continental andLatino,seemstogetalong. Sportslikecricketand should beTrinidad’s2008motto.InTrinidad, atruemeltingpot,everyone,Indian, rather thanpoundinghip-hop. Seventies. Everyoneisfriendlyandhelpful totourists.You’llhearsoothingreggae keys. Thisareaisstillrelativelysafe and remindsmeofJamaicaintheearly north, bananafarmersstillhaulbunches offsteephillsontheirheadsordon- Trinidad, whiletheremaindertriestoaccelerate intothemodernfirstworld.In bathe infreshwater. ing village,butbeforeistheunbelievably picturesqueSharkRiver,agreatplaceto restaurants andeverythingassociated.This roadendsinMatelot,atraditionalfish- surfing beachinTrinidad.GrandeRiviereisanothertouristenclavewithupscale many excellent,relativelydesertedbeaches.BreakBayinSansSouciistheonly lighthouse atTocoisadefiniteKodakmoment.FollowtheroadtoSansSouciand area atBallandria. beach andriverintersectionatSalybia,aprotectedleatherbackturtlenesting teous andsafe.Thisroadisincrediblyscenic.Thedrivewillpassanexcellent the quarries.Expecttoseemanydumptrucks,butdriversareusuallycour- Grande. Sectionsofthisroadareunderrepair,butitisalsothemainaccess to the ChurchilleasttoValenciabuttakealeft,ratherthanfollowingitSangre an excellenthorsetrackformonthlyraces(especiallyonBoxingDay). watching. ExcellentmealsandaccommodationsareavailableattheCentre. tain toArima.ThisroutewillpasstheAsaWrightNatureCentre,famousforbird- lunch andcocktails. enters theocean.Thisisagreatspotforpicnic,orlookFred’splacesuperb scenic roadwilltakeyoutoanothergreatbeachatBlanchisseusewhereariver drop-offs steepanddeadly. yet, neitherhastheBreathalyzerorradargun.Theroadsarenarrowand beach. Scotchisthebeverageofchoice.Designateddrivershaven’treallymadeit bake vendors,ispackedonweekends.Trinislovetoeatanddrinkwhileatthe vendors. Alwaystrytopullentirelyofftheroadsafelyorgoonnextvendor. Fresh fish,shrimp,crab,fruitsandvegetablescaneasilybepurchasedatroadside almost vanished.Therearealotofsmallbreakfastandlunchspotsalongtheroutes. only afewoilandgaspipesvisible.Sugarcanefieldsthesugarindustryhave west toChaguaramas. and bake”.FollowthatroaditwilltakeyoutotheChurchillRooseveltback Grande isTheLastStop,anexcellentplacetogetalocalfavoritesnackof“shark pensive guesthousesavailable.OntheriseleavingbeachtowardsSangre palm-lined coasttoanothertouristcenter,thebeachatManzanilla.Thereareinex- center withplentyofguesthouses.Drivenorth,sincethat’stheonlyroad,alonga the southeastpointofMayaro.ThisisonAtlanticsideandMayaroatourist

Pertinent directionsignshavebeeninstalled.FollowthemainroadtoPointe-à- Trinidad’s TourismDepartmentislocatedinPortofSpainandhasexcellentinfor- Southern Getaways South, fartheralongtheButler,isSanFernando(“Sando”),homeofgreat In everyperspective, Trinidadhasgoodvaluefortheboating buck,withinexpen- “Forget aboutgovernmentsandworldproblems, bewaryofcrime,andhappy” The northeastcoastisoneofthefew remaining partsof“antiqueCaribbean” Gas isavailableinCumuna,asgreatlocalfoodattheBlueRestaurant.The One ofthefinestTrinidad’sroadtripsistoTocoonnortheastpoint.Follow Once inArima,theChurchillRooseveltwillbringyouwestagain.Arimaalsohas If youaren’texhaustedandthesunisstillhigh,takeroadacrossmoun- Beyond MaracasisLasCuevasBeach,thecalmestandclearest.Thisincredibly Maracas Bay,thebestknownofanyTrinibeachandhometonumerousshark The roadfromPortofSpaintothenorthcoastisanotherweekdaytrip. North CoastDayTrips Use yourmapandwindeastwardthroughErinMorugatoRioClaro

Most ofthesouthernandeasternpartsTrinidadarestill“oldstyle”rural,with CHRIS DOYLE CHRIS MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 37 LTD INE DISTRIBUTOR R P.O. Box 17, Kingstown opposite Howard’s Marine PAIE E-mail: [email protected] Located CALLIAQUA, St. Vincent AMAHA MA Y TEL: (784) 457 1806 FAX: (784) 456 1364 KMRN SPARES SERVICE MARINE EQUIPMENT ENGINES (DUTY FREE PRICES) Rumkath. We did arrive in the Caribbean islands. It was back We did arrive in the Caribbean it. We love to sail from And we are still here! We love up with the old song: But every December, I start But still landlubbers ask me: Why do you like to be Yes, I like being a sailor and sailing on the beautiful Last year in Curaçao a competent Spanish lady gave You know, I could continue this list, but you already So, don’t ask me again if I like being a sailor: I love it! And yes, I still get seasick sometimes, but there will Anne Hjælmsø is cruising the Caribbean aboard the and small places on our way. We sailed south until the and small places on our way. west. We went from butter melted, and then turned Cape Verde islands) to São Antau (one of the the Atlantic in only 11 Barbados. In fact, we crossed my husband is always and a half days, a fact that happy to discuss when asked. in 1998. places and go back to the island to island, to visit new beautiful people, and made old. We have met so many we are in for a lot of friendships. Normally sunny islands for three. nine months and here at the What a wonderful life! What about the children (and now grandchildren), the parents, my job? Anyway, the little one is now more than two metres tall, all of them live in their own homes, our parents are still going strong. And my work? I have changed my work. Now my job is to write: I am an author. I won a short story contest, my first novel is published and sells well, and some Danish magazines like my short stories: they buy them and publish them. This is my new job. And this job, I can do wherever I am in the world. a sailor? Let me tell you the truth: blue sea, but in particular I like being a part of the sailing community: people of all ages and colours of skin, every sex and occupation, rich and poor, all nationalities. These people are peacefully helping each other with a big smile and small (and sometimes big) presents. If they catch a fish, they share with the neighbours. When they bake a cake, they cut it in pieces and give to the others around. And everyone knows how nice it is to get to a marina and see hands are ready to help you in and fasten your boat. Do you need a screw or a bolt? You can always get it from the boat next to you. free Spanish lessons to all who were interested. Today my neighbour had classes on his boat, teaching three children plus some grown-up cruisers the best methods of the art of catching fish He (of course) told them sto- ries about the big fish he had caught, and they learned how to make the fishing equipment themselves. know: Sailors are friends. Sailors make peace, not war. always be snakes in paradise. yacht by Anne Hjælmsø THIS CRUISING LIFE CRUISING THIS BAR • Bequia Tel: (784) 458-3255 Fax: (784) 458-3824

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frangipani E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.frangipanibequia.com blue sea, but in particular and sailing on the beautiful When we got back, my husband started to talk about But one day we had a great good-bye party. The Bay

I answered him that it was impossible because of I answered him that it was “Is that all?” he said. were on our way from A few months later we F a new dream: the Caribbean islands. I started up with the same old song, but he laughed. I don’t know how he managed to get me to believe in his idea. of Biscay was not too friendly, and I was seasick, yes. We saw from the ocean side and visited big Denmark to Mallorca through the canals and rivers of , , Holland and France. Our grown-up children were happy alone; the youngest was with us. The parents just wished us luck, and my colleagues said they would look forward to seeing me again. And I did not get seasick (until we reached the Mediterranean). Everything was good. our four grown children, the little one, our parents, my our four grown children, the get seasick. job, and the fact that I often MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 38 29) DOG 27) CROWS 25) BOOBY 23) GULL 21) EATEN 18) SHEEPSHANK 16) 15) ARAT 13) MINNOW 12) NEST 8) BEE 7) HARE 6) HADDOCK 1) CARDINAL ACROSS Crossword Solution your business. gies atthistimeandwillbringafresheningbreezeto regain strengthforthefuture. some timeofftospendwiththosewhomyouenjoyand a counter-currentontheentiremonth. cranky. Trytoconcentrateonthepositivesoasnotput this month. sail, yourswillmeetsomechoppyseasandflukywinds bringing withitapotentialromance. the 20th,yoursociallifewillbeonanincomingtide, let pettyargumentsblowyouoffcourse. end ofthemonth. love affairorfemalecrewfromaroundthe7ththrough faring life.Invitefriendsaboardforapartyordaysail. interest aroundthe20th. but businesswillgetaliftfromwomanfriendorlove er withfriendsandhaveapicnicatthebeach. you; enjoyit! worry —yourlovelifewillcometorescue. 17th, followedbyyourbusinessplansonthe20th.Don’t Your lovelifewilldominateyourthoughtsandener- Life foryouthismonthwillbeapleasuresail.Take Business isstillaslogtowindwardandmaymakeyou While itseemseveryoneelse’ssociallifeisunderfull Though yourbusinessmaybeinthedoldrumsaround Keep thingslightandhavesomefunthisMarch.Don’t Be readytoreefthemain.Theremaybesquallswitha You, too,willgetabreakfromthestressesofsea- Your senseofhumorisstillonvacationaroundthe17th It’s afunmonthforyou,too:goodtimetogettogeth- Ease yoursheets.Thisshouldbeatimeofrelaxationfor Your senseofhumormayjumpoverboardaroundthe MARCH 2008 SAGITTARIUS (23Nov-21Dec) CANCER CAPRICORN (22Dec-20Jan) QAIS(21Jan-19Feb) AQUARIUS SCORPIO (24Oct-22Nov) TAURUS (21Apr-21May) GEMINI (22May-21Jun) PISCES (20Feb-20Mar) VIRGO (24Aug-23Sep) ARIES (21Mar-20Apr) LIBRA (24Sep-23Oct) 11) FOX 10) STAG 9) BEETLE 6) HEN 5) TEREDO 4) LARK 3) AH 2) APE DOWN 39) HORSE 38) EAGLE 37) PARROT 33) FISH 31) MOUSE LEO (24Jul-23Aug) (22 Jun-23Jul) 36) FLY 35) MULE 33) STEER 31) BEAR 30) OSPREY 28) SPIDERS 26) BIRDS 24) ERNE 22) COW 20) 19) HOUND 17) CATROPE 16) GOAT 14) PAWS 13) MONKEY Fishcakes To talktooneanother. People weremade And aking. A songaboutanidiot Is concernedonlywith And so,mypoem Our feeblestirrings. Surely Earthdoesnotneed Of senseinanyofit. There isnotanounce Like life. Like fire.clay. Forever thesame. Forever changing We havethenighttoourselves. No miraclerequired. And such?Noneed, Camels througheyesofneedles And ofheaven? On onenightwatch. I couldcreatefiftybetter Of theirheaven. I havenoneed At theirconcern. To gravity,andmarvel Not particularlyattached If Imindtheroll?am On theground,theyask With feetplantedfirmly Of freedom. It beatswiththeaggressiveness My roofisopentotherain; And indescribablecoffee. We breakfastedonfishcakes Island Poets

— JohnA.Smith LOULOUNE MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 39 Solution on page 38 on the compass on the 24 Down are all _____ Across, 37 Across, 4 Down, 6 Down, 20 Down and ‘ANIMALS ABOARD’ ‘ANIMALS 6) Species of cod a type of hull-clinging mollusk 7) Sea _____: attached to side of bowsprit 8) Piece of wood ____: observation platform 12) 27 Across fish 13) Smallest bait ___’ 15) ‘I smell _ boom to mast 16) Fitting attaching up slack in a line 18) Knot to take are _____ by 26 Down 21) 33 Across bird 23) Noisy sea 25) Blue-footed _____ 27) Black birds on deck 29) ___-house: small structure 31) Type of fine baggywrinkle by placing splints over 33) To splice a broken spar the break 37) Pirate’s pet 38) Sea _____: Manta ray a square rigger 39) in the yards of ACROSS ______points and west are south, east 1) North, DOWN 2) Deck hand 3) Sound before “ha!” 4) Small boat 5) Wood-eating sea worm 6) Sea ___: grey gurnard 9) Shipwright’s heavy mallet for 10) Rock to be watched out 11) Rope yarn used for seizing 13) ______’s fist: woven knot on end of heaving line 14) Ship’s cat’s feet 16) An animal of the Zodiac 17) Line for hauling cat hook 19) Trestletree support 20) ______-tail: points of a burgee 22) ___ hitch: slip knot 24) ____ Lee Bradford: nautical author 26) 1 Across, 23 Across, 25 Across, 27 Across, 36 28) Hoops around mast to attach futtock shrouds 30) Sea hawk 31) To ____ up is to come into the wind 33) Control helm 35) Animal that pulled barges on Erie Canal 36) Compass card Caribbean Compass 2008 © NAUTICAL FACTOIDS NAUTICAL rossword

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ELAINE OLLIVIERRE 2007 © of thediverswasboldenoughtostrokehissmooth about andletthedivershaveagoodlookathim.One ventured outduringtheday,too.Sometimeshehung But asMorrygrewandhisteethwithhim,sohe and howtoslitheroutatnightfindhisdinner. smallest cracksandjoinsofthewreckduringday mother whenhewasonlyalittleeelhowtohideinthe you willseeonthereefs.Morryhadbeentaughtbyhis strong, olivegreeneel,oneofthelargesttypeseels helpful neighbours.Morry,ourMoray,wasabig, fish andseacreatureswerethebestoffriends that theylivedinparadise!Andjustthink,allthese gorgeous searods,why,nowonderthefishthought the greenandgoldtwinedfingersponges,all cobalt blue,redandlavenderencrustingstarsponges, from thegoldentrumpetsoftubespongesto den themomentyousawit.Whatwithallsponges, would thinkthatyouhadenteredanenchantedgar- som” orchardofsoftcorals—telestoreallyandyou they makethemwiththeirown“spit”. that driftby.Andthecoralstructurestheylivein?Well, colonies ofcreaturesthatcatcheventinier sort withfourlegsandatail.No,theseanimalsaretiny, the gardensofseaaremostlyanimals—not the seacurrentsonhullareanimals.That’sright, glowing deepgoldandburntorangethatwaveaboutin said thewreckwascoveredinplantsbutthoselacyfans and fabulousseacreatures.Mostpeoplewouldhave and overtheyearsithadattractedallsortsofcolourful wreck satuprightonthesandedgeofreef an excitingdiveforenthusiasticscubadivers.The towed thereandsunkespeciallyasahomeforfish on thereefatall,itwasanoldfreighterthathadbeen ous St.Lucia.Infact,thiswreckhadn’tbeenwrecked just offthecalmwesterncoastoflushandmountain- beautiful. Thisparticularshipwreckhappenedtobe ter placetobe.Itwassafe,itcomfortable, the shipwreckonreefagreedthattherewasnobet- Deep insidethehullisanenchanting“appleblos- All thefishwhomadetheirhomeinsideandunder they bobupagainand transmittheirreadingsviasatellite. the sea.Theycandive downandtakemeasurementsbelowthe surface,andthen give warningofpossibletsunamis. them. Pressuregaugesleftontheseafloor candetectchangesaroundthemand latitudes, tomeasurethephysicaland chemicalpropertiesoftheseaaround show surfacecurrents. calm. Theycanmeasuretheextentofice coveratthepolarregionsandtheycan observations abouttheoceansurface.They canseewhetherseasareroughor tists thinkitistomonitorthestateof oceansoftheworld. ent groupsthereare.Arealalphabetsoup!Butthisshowshowimportantscien- organizations involvedinoceanographicstudies,youwillknowhowmanydiffer- DOLLY’S DEEPSECRETS Small, driftingrobot monitorsmeasurepressure,salinityand temperaturein Stationary buoyshavebeenmooredatvarious locations,especiallyintropical Satellites movinginorbitaroundtheearth containinstrumentsthatmake So, whatdotheyusetothemonitoring? If youattemptedlastmonth’sguessinggametofindthenamesofsome

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would evictthem.Butluckilyforeveryone,Morry fish livingsopeacefullybeforebegantofearthatMorry the “appleblossom”orchardandchaseditaway.The He evensurprisedasmallbarracudabrowsingthrough that henowregardedtheentirewreckashiskingdom. wreck, thedecks,hold,engineroomsowell further inhisdailytravelsuntilheknewallofthe and sohewentfurther ed thatthiswasgreatfun explore thewreck.Hedecid- told themtheywerejealous. tilted hisheadhigherand kingdom come,sohejust knock anyinterferingfishto his powerfulbodyhecould knew thatwithoneswishof comes beforeafall!Morry well, butyouknowwhat Morry thatprideisallvery big, blackeyes,warned son SoldierFishwiththeir wreck, aswellthecrim- Majors thatswamaboutthe and blackbandedSergeant fins. Indeedalltheyellow was gettingtoobigforhis she warnedMorrythathe ows acrossherscalesand Snapper withsilvershad- Scarlet Glassy-Eyed under thehullwasGilda,a himself swellwithprideandhebecameveryvain. wreck, sothediversbegantolookforhim.Morryfelt that hehadmadeforhimselfunderthehullof by, andMorrycameoutmorefromthehome laughed tohimselfandfeltverypowerful.Astimewent menacing thatthediverswamoffinafright.Morry skin butheopenedhiswidemouthandlookedso

i Morry soonbeganto Living inherownspace s

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e a . do theanswershaveincommon? the goalofanintegratedandcomprehensiveoceanobservationsystem. scientific groupsmustcometogethertocoordinatetheiractivitiesandworktowards monitoring systemsisavailabletoeveryonewhoneedsuseit.That’swhyallthose live, howandwheretheymigratefartravel. the contoursofseafloor. sequencing inmarinemicro-organismsforbetteridentificationofeachspecies. and studythedistributionofmarinespecies.TheycanevenfindDNA can bemeasured. balloons intothecentresofhurricanessothatairandseaconditionsthere not reach. Unscramble thefollowingtomakewordsyoucanfindintextabove.What Word Puzzle What isimportantnowtomakesurethatalltheinformationobtainedfromthese The taggingofmarinecreaturesgivesinformationabouthowthose isusedtoshowthewhereaboutsofschoolsfish.Italsomap Scientists onresearchshipscantakesamplesofwaterdirectlyfromthesea Scientists areexperimentingwithinstrumentsthatcanbecarriedbyspecial Robotic submersiblescantakepicturesofthedeepoceanwherehumanscan- 0 CSSL_ _ COSHSOL 10. have agoodlookathim . UTS ______DUSTISE _ _ QUINGSCENE 9. _ _ _ _ _ MAPLESS 8. LISTETALE 7. RATTYASION 6. FACRUSE 5. YINSTAIL 4. EPISCES _ _ 3. 2. 1. TICESSINTS and letthedivers he hungabout Sometimes Answers onpage 43 on yourface…. ried offvainMorryintriumphastheirtrophy. and thefightwasoverquickly.Thespearfishermencar- put upagoodstrugglebuthewasmortallywounded and thelastinhiselegant,longbody.PowerfulMorry broke uptheircoralandspongehomes.Onenightafter such attentionasmanyofthediverswereclumsyand world, too.Theinhabitantsofthewreckdidn’twant the talkofdivingworld,andcoursefish would findhim.Thediversfoundhimandhebecame andeverydaythereafter,thatiswhereyou together thenandwentofftohuntdownhisdinner. the wreckbecameadarkcavern.Morrypulledhimself there untilthesunwentdownovermountainsand n’t havetostrainhisneckbylookingup.Morryhung vertically, somethingthateelsneverdo,sohedid- not draghiseyesaway!Hehungfullfivefeetdown gazed athismagnificentselfandfellinlove.Hecould was asbrightandpolishedamirror.Oh,Morry formed anairpocketupthereandtheundersurface reflection! Yes,theairbreathedoutbydivershad was immediatelyspellbound.Hecouldseehisown but thisparticulardayheglancedattheceilingand ered alongthispassagebeforehehadfailedtolookup deck asthe“appleblossom”orchard.Ashehadslith- looked. Itwasanoutsidepassagewayalongthesame found aparticularspotonthewreckthathehadover- THE END Well, themoralofthisstoryisasplainnose The nextmorningMorrywasbackunderneathhis head, anotherinthechest Morry. Onegothiminthe together theyspearedpoor one elsewasaboutand into thewreckwhenno with speargunsswam long afterthis,threedivers his fangs.Well,nottoo spat atthemandbared at all,infacthenastily It hadnoeffectonMorry being aproperMorayEel. nonsense andgobackto fort andshouldstophis everyone’s peaceandcom- that hewasamenaceto hull andtoldhimflatout his sandhomeunderthe Morry ashelayrestingin Sergeant Majors,wentto spokesman forthe Soldier FishandSidthe Charlie theleaderof Glassy-Eyed Snapper, residents, Gilda,the a meetingwithallofthe MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 41 Compass: … and more!

Cruisers’ Angel Falls Adventure

Sailing Directions: Leaving the Caribbean 12 issues US$29.95, 24 issues US$53.95 Guadeloupe to Montserrat… by Paddleboard! www.caribbeancompass.com Nancy H. Bennet California, USA “It’s a very Join our growing list of on-line subscribers! Same price, same content — faster delivery! informative source of ‘goings on’ in the Caribbean boating world.” Read in Next Month’s by Bob Williamson

THE THE

Alice was a small boat dog of mixed parentage but mostly terrier. She belonged to Alice was a small boat dog of mixed parentage but mostly One day, for example, Vadim’s girlfriend, Marisol, telephoned him to say that she Vadim thought this sounded a bit tricky, so Marisol asked to speak to Alice, whom Alice listened intently to Marisol’s directions, which included a reminder that the The dog was back quite quickly, just a minute or two after Marisol had telephoned Alice was well used to going for rides on Vadim’s motorcycle — never by herself, Sadly, Alice crossed to the other shore when she was only a bit more than five BOAT DOG BOAT

Vadim Ulianov and they both lived in St. Martin. She had been born on a coastal Vadim Ulianov and they both lived in St. Martin. She and boats with only human boat and had spent most of her life aboard various tugs dogs she met on various trips friends. In fact, she was always suspicious of the other of people, specially among ashore in dinghies, much preferring the company calling her E.T. because of Vadim’s pals. They all thought highly of Alice and began her seemingly amazing talent for communication . was at their apartment about two miles down the coast and had forgotten to bring her key. Vadim was in the middle of a job and couldn’t spare the time to bring the key to her, so Marisol said “Give the key to Alice and tell her to bring it to the apart- ment.” she called Alisky which she thought to be a more suitable Russian name. The dog was, by the way, fluent in French, English and Russian. apartment was above Alice’s favourite restaurant where she was always given immense quantities of chicken bones. Vadim attached the key to Alice’s collar and said “Right. Off you go. Don’t wander around — go straight to Marisol, and come straight back.” Vadim to say she now had the key. mind you, but balancing between Vadim’s arms. Wherever she went, generally to parties ashore, Alice would sit between Marisol and any potential suitor, guarding Marisol as if her life depended on it. And on most return trips to their boat, Alice would steer the dinghy by various clever nudges, in order to visit other boats where there was any possibility of there being a party on board. Once in a while Alice would get a little drunk and you could always tell if there was only one ear sticking up — the other having passed out cold. She was the original party animal. years old. She was sorely missed by all her many friends, who all hoped she had not arrived in Dog Heaven but rather to one inhabited by human beings. She’s proba- bly sitting right now at God’s feet, waiting for the occasional chicken bone. ALICE ALICE MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 42 nahs ormountains. cities, onthebeach,orinisland’swoods,savan- herbaceous plantsandtrees,whethertheybein interested inidentifyingthecountry’sflowering for nature-loverswhoarevisitingCubaand impressively. Theyarewrittennotforspecialistsbut Cuba’s flowersandtrees—manyofwhichbloom clear, conciseandcomprehensiveintroductionto vant protectedareas. six Ramsarsites(wetlands)areamongthemostrele- Six BiosphereReserves,twoWorldHeritagesitesand the islandisnowunderprotectedareassystem. loss ofhabitatinitshistory,atotal22percent altitudes. AlthoughCubahassufferedtremendous here inawidediversityofeco-systems,soiltypesand Cuba world whenitcomestoflora.According also oneofthemostrichlyendowedislandsin Natural History.G2007.Paperback,112pages,colorphotosthroughout.ISBN978-1-4050-2904-9.£7.50. Natural History.G2007.Paperback,106pages,colorphotosthroughout.ISBN978-1-4050-2905-6. Caribbean —inBloom These books,translatedintoEnglish,providea The largestislandintheCaribbeanbyfar,Cubais Flowers ofCuba Trees ofCuba , therearearound7,000nativeplantsgrowing

Cuba —andthe by AngelaLeiva(translatedJulietBarclay),photosGonzaloCanetti.MacmillanCaribbean

by AngelaLeiva(translatedJulietBarclay),photosGonzaloCanetti.MacmillanCaribbean

Trees of www.macmillan-caribbean.com. of threatenedCubanplants. Garden andiscurrentlyworkingontheconservation She isadirectoroftheCubanNationalBotanic Sciences andprofessorattheUniversityofHavana. warnings aboutpoisonousspecies. tioned whereappropriate,inadditiontoclearlystated to identification.Medicalandculinaryusesaremen- descriptions offlowers,leaves,seedsandbarkasaids include high-qualitycolorphotosofeveryspeciesand and somelesser-knownvarieties,thesehandyguides throughout theregion. tions tothelibrariesof“botanizers”livingortraveling these easilyportablefieldguideswillbevaluableaddi- from humidmountainrainforesttoaridsandycays, system foundelsewhereintheCaribbean,ranging These booksareavailableatbookstoresorfrom The author,AngelaLeiva,isaDoctorofBiological Covering allthemostcommonlyobservedspecies Because Cubacontainsjustabouteverytypeofeco-

MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 43

N N N BY BY BY BY business insurance FLOWERS FLOWERS FLOWERS FLOWERS FLOWERS Jolly Harbour, Antigua it is too late. it is too DESIG DESIG INTERIORS INTERIORS INTERIORSINTERIORS DESIGNDESIG Marine Fax DM Street or unsatisfactorily settled, Then, if the claim is denied Insurance www.street-iolaire.com UPHOLSTERY UPHOLSTERY UPHOLSTERYUPHOLSTERY insurance is until you have a claim. have you is until insurance Fax: (268) 560-9372 The insurance business has changed. insurance The insurance,no good cheap is but there There is good insurance,There is cheap there Shop: (268) 562-6960 Rather, say, can only the honest broker No longer can brokers talk of low rates. talk of low No longer can brokers insurance.You never know how good your how know never insurance.You “I’ll do my best to minimize your increase!” your minimize best to “I’ll do my settlement record cannot be beat. Iolaire Enterprises (353) 28 - 33927 or e-mail: [email protected] Cell: (268) 464-5335 Lois Warner Email: [email protected] I have been in the FRESH TROPICAL FRESH TROPICAL FRESH TROPICALFRESH TROPICAL 40 years, 36 with Lloyds, and my claims DOLLY’S ANSWERS 1.2. SCIENTISTS 3. SPECIES 4. SALINITY 5. SURFACE 6. STATIONARY 7. SATELLITE 8. SAMPLES 9. SEQUENCING 10. STUDIES SCHOOLS They all begin with the letter ‘S’ ranges from old-time ranges from Again, the range of recipes Some non-seafood Tip of the day: Tie sprigs Unusually, most of the have to prepare the bounty of the sea that surrounds them. So many ways, in fact, that Volume Two is already in the works. Hartland could have com- mented: “Many Grenadians have woken before dawn to spend a couple of hours on the sea, fishing before going to work.” is broad, from heartwarm- ing Ackras like Granny used to make for breakfast (with breadfruit and cocoa tea), to an ambitious Lobster Burger on Plantain Rosti with Ginger Corn Salsa. recipes sneaked into this book, but these salads, vegetables and desserts will go deliciously with the fish dishes. of sage, rosemary and thyme together in a bunch. Dip in olive oil or melted butter. Brush over grilled or broiled fish to season. photos in these books are not of the prepared dishes, Both books are available at shops in Grenada or After each recipe is the contributor’s name and After each recipe is the Recipes, Volume One Great Grenada Fish & Seafood Great Grenada Recipes Great Grenada or the stages of making them, or even the ingredients. Rather, they are scenic shots intending to give the books souvenir value. These images are a refreshing addition, but we hope that future volumes will include a few more photos of ingredients and finished dishes, for the benefit of those who might not know what a christophene — or a properly done plantain rosti — looks like. from [email protected]. A donation to charity will be made from the sale of each copy of both books. Grenadian favorites such as Salt Fish Souse with such as Salt Fish Grenadian favorites to updat- Coo-Coo Pois and Crab Backs Fried Bakes, Mushroom & island ingredients — Tofu, ed ways with and Fish & Callaloo Lasagne Avocado Stir-Fry, between are Ganache, for example. In Passion Fruit Baked Stuffed Red Caribbean classics including and Tuna Fish & Avocado Snapper, Curried Mutton creations such as Chilled Salad, as well as imaginative with Shrimp, Carambola Spicy Watermelon Soup Salad and Pumpkin Punch. for anyone who has spent home community — it’s fun did what (“So that’s how time in Grenada to see who Fish Pie!”) and note the Shirley’s mother made her Salt It’s no surprise that specialties of different localities. Waters is from the fish- the recipe for Lambie (Conch) Martinique and Provision ing community of Petite agricultural area around Pudding hails from the Mount Moritz. different ways Grenadians demonstrates how many the traditional to the trendy — of Grenada’s cuisine. to the trendy — of Grenada’s the traditional , “Most Grenadians , compiled by Wendy , compiled COOKBOOKS SPICE ISLAND ISLAND SPICE Great Grenada Recipes , compiled by Wendy Hartland, Island Recipes Wendy Hartland, Island , compiled by Wendy Hartland first As Wendy says in the intro- Various chefs, restaurateurs and individuals on the Great Grenada Recipes Great Grenada Volume Fish & Seafood Recipes, Great Grenada came to Grenada in 1966 on holiday from what was then in transition from the colony of British Guiana to the independent nation of — her husband, Mike, was a major in the British Army. The Hartland family “fell in love with the island”, moved there and built their first house in 1968. Wendy, an artist, is now a Grenadian citizen and has her studio and art gallery near St. George’s. duction to Isle of Spice, and its sister isles Carriacou and Petite Martinique, donated the recipes published in both books. This gives a broad range of examples — from are very capable cooks, and enjoy it, and many are also likely to have woken at dawn to spend a couple of hours in the garden tending their crops before going to work. This interest in food, from planting it to cooking it, is reflected in the wholesome and deli- cious range of recipes gathered here.” One color photos. paperback, 80 pages, Unlimited. © 2007, ISBN 978-976-8212-12-2. Hartland, Island Recipes Unlimited. © 2006, paperback, Recipes Unlimited. © 2006, Hartland, Island photos. ISBN 978-976-8212-04-7. 80 pages, color MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 44 etables arebecomingtootender,remove themtemporarily. does notgettoothickandwatchthatthe vegetablesdonotovercook.Ifsomeveg- to boilthenlowerheatsimmer.Addremainder ofpumpkin.Watchthatthestew the sancocho. half ofthepumpkintoaddlateras firstportionwillcookdownandthicken in alargestockpotofcoldwaterasyouworktoavoiddiscoloration.Keepback with alloil. der. Removesaltporkandsetaside.Insameskillet,brownsausage.Setaside barely tender. and salt.Addwaterasneededtomakeasauceinthepan.Cookmeatsonlytilljust with aportionoftheonions,garlic,bellpeppers,tomatoes,Worcestershiresauce, meat (exceptforsaltpork)separatelyinthefollowingmanner:putskillet pounds ofmeat—enoughtofeed70,000people! Record bymakingasancochocombining15,300poundsofvegetablesand11,000 cial combinationofingredients.ChefsinVenezuelabroketheGuinnessWorld pared inhouseholdsthroughouttheCaribbeanregion,eachcookadvocatingaspe- are twoofthenamesgiventohodgepodgestewsthissort.Suchpre- various meatsorfishandspicestomakeafull-mealstew.PepperpotSancocho sions withplantainsorgreenbananas,blackredbeans,corn,breadfruit,and available atmarketonagivenday.Andcooksoftencombinesuchgroundprovi- as “groundprovisions”,withthepercentageofeachvaryingdependingonwhat’s or squash,cassava,potatoesandyams.Thiscombinationisoftenlistedinrecipes casseroles, soups—theyaremostversatile. can usethemasasubstituteforthemorefamiliarorangesweetpotatoinpies, this willavoiddiscoloration. peel them,submergethepeeledonesinwateruntilyouarereadytoproceedas a weekorso.Theydonotneedtoberefrigerated.Ifyourrecipecallsforyou home, storetheminacool,airyplaceoutofdirectlightandtheyshouldlastfor are apttobemoreflavorfulandhaveabetterconsistency.Onceyougetthem mens thatareheavyfortheirsize:theywillbethejuiciest.Thesmallerbatatas and anywhiteorblackmolds.Aswithallfruitsvegetables,choosespeci- and thefleshwillcookupdrierfluffierthantheirorange-fleshedcousins. shape. Whenyoucutabatata,you’lldiscoverthattheinsidesarecreamywhite color ofNorthAmerican“sweetpotatoes”.Buttheyareaboutthesamesizeand is alittledifferent—eitherdarkpurplishorlighterreddish—ratherthantheorange Latin namesonicely,Iamgoingtostickwithbatatas. Cuban sweetpotato,sweet-sweet,camote,boniatoorbatata.Justbecauseitfitsthe adventure! experiment toseewhatwecanmakeofthem.It’salljustparttheCaribbean etables wecanonlycall“otherrootthings”untillearntheirlocalnamesand BATATAS 2 smallbatatas,boiled, peeled,cutin1-inchcubes 1 poundleanbeef,cut in1-inchcubes 2 teaspoonscumin 3 Tablespoonsjerkseasoning 1/4 Cupsourorange juice 1/2 Cupoliveoil Beef andBatataKabobs Serve sancochowithrice,hotsauce,and slicesofavocado.Serves9. Add allthepreparedmeatsandremaining ingredientstothestockpot.Bringstew Peel andcutallvegetablesintoabouttwo-inchservingsizepieces,puttingthem In themeantime,frysaltporkinoilovermediumhighheatuntilbarelyten- Wipe chicken,porkchops,andgoatorbeefwithsourorangejuice.Cookeach 1 Tablespoonvinegar 1 chickenbouilloncube Cilantro leaves Fresh parsley 1 Tablespoonoregano 3 literswater 1 poundyam 3 earscornonthecob 1 poundbatatas 1 poundpumpkin 1 poundtaro 1 poundcassava 2 largeplantains 1/2 poundsausage 2 Tablespoonscookingoil 1/2 poundsaltpork,cutinhalf-inchcubes 5 teaspoonssalt 1 TablespoonWorcestershiresauce 1 poundtomatoes,diced 2 greenpeppers,diced 4 clovesgarlic,mashed 1 mediumonion,diced 6 Tablespoonssourorangejuice 3/4 poundgoatmeatorbeef 1 poundporkchops 2 poundschicken,inskinnedserving-sizepieces Dominican-Style Sancocho Many Caribbeancookscombinebatataswithothervegetables,suchaspumpkin You canbake,fry,boil,ormicrowavebatatasjustasyouwouldanypotato. Look forbatatasthatarerockhardandfreefrombruises,blemishes,wrinkles, This fleshytaprootlooksmuchlikethe“sweetpotato”knowninUS.Thecolor Depending onwhereyoubuythem, In everymarketandgrocerystoreintheCaribbean,we’resuretoencounterveg- WHACHA GONNADOWITHALLTHOSE… by MaryHeckrotte Ipomoea batata is calledwhitesweetpotato, —Continued onnextpage —Continued ? MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 45 , PM - 6 AM Bequia Special 8-grain bread Fresh Croissants daily in VHF 68 Fine Wines Tel (784) 458-3625 Tel Fax (784) 457-3134 and other gourmet foods Imported Cheeses & Pastas

[email protected] YACHT PROVISIONING Daily Fresh Herbs & Produce , Lunch is served 11:00 There is nothing general about Basil’s Call 784-488-8407 AM Basil’s Bar in Mustique was named one of the e-mail: [email protected] • Mustique Imagine, decorating your home with Antiques from Bali Call 784-457-2713 Fabrics as bright as the sea and as light as air... perfect for as bright as the sea and as light as air... Fabrics Basil’s Bar Bar open daily until… Sunday 6pm - 2am Bar open daily and efficiently arranged. Kitchen open Monday to Saturday 10am - 10pm to Saturday 10am Kitchen open Monday In St Vincent - near the port of Kingstown is an 18th century cob- In St Vincent WE SHIP AROUND THE WORLD! BEQUIA, Port Elizabeth, Admiralty Bay Elizabeth, Admiralty BEQUIA, Port the island. www.basilsbar.com [email protected] www.basilsbar.com Bequia - Restaurant - Great Cocktails & Fun - Great Bequia - Restaurant Visit Basil’s in Mustique or St. Vincent Basil’s in Mustique Visit Menu: Burgers, Flying Fish, Philly Steak Sandwiches,Fajitas, Salads, Sandwiches,Fajitas, Salads, Flying Fish, Philly Steak Menu: Burgers, Tel: (784) 457 3443 Tel: (784) Full Cable TV • Air Conditioning • Sportsbar • Pool Table • Air Conditioning Full Cable TV Chicken Wings, Conch Fritters, etc. Dinner Menu will be available from Dec 07 Menu will be available from Conch Fritters, etc. Dinner Chicken Wings, Dinner at 7:30 until late. Come to Basil’s for Cocktails anytime and plan to attend the Dinner at 7:30 until late. Come to Basil’s for Cocktails anytime BBQ. Call 784-488-8350 or VHF 68. night Jump up and Wednesday BOUTIQUE BASIL’S women, men and children, For island evening and playful day wear. Elegant island joy. home. Basil’s Boutique also offers silver and gemstone jewelry. to take plus lots of T-shirts STORE: GENERAL GREAT BASIL’S wines, cheeses from Europe, with fine French Great General Store - stocked 784-488-8407 Call foods in Paradise. sauces and gourmet jams. Imported cigars. Fine FOREVER: ACROSS has and India - contemporary pieces and fabulous lighting. Across Forever a magnificent collection of furniture and home accessories from Asia. Shipping is easily Visitors to St Vincent are invited to: to St Vincent Visitors BAR: BASIL’S Air conditioned, and Bar. blestone building where you may find Basil’s Restaurant you will enjoy cocktails most delightful, the staff most welcoming and the meals, some of the best on Visitors to Mustique are invited to: to Mustique are Visitors BAR AND RESTAURANT: BASIL’S World’s Ten Best Bars in 1987 by Newsweek magazine and today lives up to that tradi- Ten World’s Bar in Mustique is all that and more renovated the new face of Basil’s tion. Recently and breakfasts. lunches Terrific offering the freshest seafood, steaks and pastas for dinner. catch up on the web. Now equipped with WIFI you can enjoy sunset cocktails and January 23 - February Basil’s Bar is home and originator of the Mustique Blues Festival, 6, 2008. Breakfast service begins at 8:00 New location at former Le Petit Jardin sprechen Deutsch Wir Credit Cards welcome! s Mustique ’ and Choice Meats Sunday: 9am to 12pm in the Grenadines.

Tel: (784) 488-8479 Fax: (784) 456-5230 Monday-Saturday: 8am to 12pm & 3pm to 6pm Fine Wine, Cheeses, Fresh Fruits, Vegetables

Corea THE FOOD STORE Your #1 Choice for Provisioning Mashed Garlic Batatas Mashed Garlic 4 medium batatas 1 Cup sour cream 1/2 Cup butter garlic 1/4 Cup roasted pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground black immediately into a pot of boiling salted water. Boil 20 Peel batatas, putting them Batata Pecan Casserole and boiled until tender 6 medium batatas, peeled 1 Cup raisins 1/2 Cup pecans, chopped 1 teaspoon vanilla 2 Tablespoons lemon juice 2 Tablespoons butter, melted 1/2 Cup corn syrup 1/3 Cup sugar 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon 1/4 teaspoon nutmeg 1/4 teaspoon allspice 1/4 teaspoon salt layer of half the slices in a baking dish sprayed with Slice batatas and make a Batata Plantain Mash 3 pounds batatas 2 yellow plantains 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract 1/4 Cup milk 4 Tablespoons butter Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste submerging pieces Peel batatas and plantains, cut them into small chunks, Batata Pudding 2 eggs, beaten 1/2 Cup milk 1 Cup sugar 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon 1/2 Cup butter 1/2 teaspoon nutmeg 2 Cups grated raw batata 1/2 teaspoon salt 1 can (13 ounces) evaporated milk 1 Cup shredded coconut sugar. Stir in remaining In a large mixing bowl, mix together eggs, butter, and 1 medium bell pepper, diced bell pepper, 1 medium cubes cut in 1-inch zucchini, 1 medium cut in half 2 shallots, zipper into two Divide mixture and cumin. oil, juice, jerk, bowl, mix In a small to 30 minutes until tender. Drain, add remaining ingredients and use an electric to 30 minutes until tender. smooth. Add more sour cream and/or butter if mixture mixer to combine all until appears too thick or dry. Layer on remaining batata non-stick. Sprinkle on half of the raisins and pecans. juice, butter, and corn slices. In a small bowl, mix together the vanilla, lemon at 350°F for 45 minutes. syrup, sugar, and spices. Pour mixture over batatas. Bake Serves 6. Bring water to boil and cook immediately in a pot of water to avoid discoloration. remaining ingredients. Using 15 to 20 minutes until pieces are tender. Drain. Add an electric mixer, combine all until smooth. pan sprayed with non-stick. ingredients. Pour into a 1 and one-half quart casserole the center comes out clean. Bake at 350°F for 1 hour or until a toothpick inserted in plastic bags. In one bag, add beef. In the other bag, add batatas, pepper, zucchini, pepper, bag, add batatas, In the other bag, add beef. bags. In one plastic 30 minutes or coat ingredients. Chill bags Shake each bag gently to and shallots. beef and veg- marinade. Alternate beef and vegetables, discarding longer. Drain lightly browned 10 to 12 minutes until on skewers then broil or grill etable cubes on all sides. —Continued page from previous MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 46 For Reservations: For Reservations: seasonal specialtiesandfreshbakedgoods. MAC’S PIZZERIA JONAS BROWNE &HUBBARD(G’da.)Ltd. Hubbard’s The FoodFairhasitalland alotmore. or afineselectionofliquorandwine, or fruits,toiletries,householdgoods, products, meat,freshvegetables Whether it’scannedgoods,dairy conveniently locatedsupermarkets. best pricesinGrenadaatourtwo on thewidestselectionand Stock Up Situated in Admiralty Bay, Bequiabetween In additiontoourfamouspizzaweoffer Open dailyfrom11:00am to10:00pm. the FrangipaniandPlantationHouse. VHF Ch68orTel: (784)4583474 Tel: (473)444-4573 until 7:00pm Friday &Saturday 9 amto5:30pm Monday -Thursday Grand Anse: Tel: (473)440-2588 1:00 pm Saturday until Friday until8:45pm 8 amto5:30pm Monday -Thursday The Carenage: gungo peas. beans orAngolapeas,whiletheIndiannamesarearhartoor.InpartsofCaribbeanpeascalled Four-thousand-year-old pigeonpeashavebeendiscoveredinEgyptiantombs.AfricanscalltheseCongo good-earth tasteoffreshor“green”peas.AlthoughanimportantcropIndia,pigeonpeasoriginatedinAfrica. BBC. Neverdumpthepodsoverboard—theyfloat! dried orfrozenpigeonpeas.Myself,Ihavelearnedtoloveshellingfreshpeasinthecockpitwhilelistening and evenwhiteorstriped.Freshpeapodsshouldbecrispsnapapartiftwisted.Supermarketshavecanned, and conditionofthepods.However,podcolorsrangefromgreentoreddishdeeppurple,brownblack, were mixedwiththerice.Denniswasanexpertatchoosingpigeonpeas.Freshonesshouldbeboughtbycolor another Caribbeanessential,pigeonpeas. stiff mixture). flour andbreadcrumbsmixwell.Dropbyspoonfulsintohotoil.Thesemay alsobebakedorgrilled(ifitisa utes beforeserving.(Dicedchickenorbeefmaybeadded.) lon andsalt/spicestotaste.Removefromheataddcelery,mushroomschadonbene.Letsitfortenmin- to taste. to becertaintheyaresoft,andaddfryingpan.Addremainingcoconutmilkheatforfiveminutes.Season excess waterandstirin2Cupsofthecoconutmilk.Simmer,addingifpeasgetdry. don’t buyCocoLopez,whichisasweetenedproductformakingpiñacoladas! to cook. or addedtosandwiches.Veryyoungpeapodsmayalsobestirfries,soupsandstews. Vitamin C,butthisvitaminismoreprevalentifthepeasareusedassprouts.Sproutscanbecookedinstir-fry mins, whichhelpthebodyresistdiseases.Pigeonpeascontainiron,zincandcalcium.Thesealsohave beans, theyarebesteatenwithacomplementofriceorwheat.AllpeasandbeansgreatsourcesBvita- I hadeatentherice-baseddishpeleaumanytimes,butnevergaveathoughttotypeofbeansorpeasthat In afryingpan,heatbutterandaddchivesparsley.Addtheseseasonings totheyam-and-peamix.Add Boil peasandyamsuntilsoft.Mashmixinpeas. Oil forfrying 1/2 cupbreadcrumbs 3 Tablespoonsflour 1 clovegarlic,minced 1 onion,chopped 1 bunchparsley,chopped 2 chives,chopped 1 Tablespoonbutter 2 poundsyams,peeledandcubed 1 Cuppigeonpeas Pigeon PeaCakes Add oilandbayleaftoalargepotofboilingwater.peaspepperboiluntilaresoft.bouil- 1/4 Cupchoppedchadonbene 1/4 cupslicedmushrooms 3 stalkscelery,chopped Salt andspicetotaste 1 cubevegetablebouillon 1/2 hotpepper,choppedfine 2 Cupspigeonpeas 1 bayleaf 1 Tablespoonoliveoil 4 Cupswater Three PSoup(PigeonPeasandPepper) Serve hotonabedofrice. In afryingpan,addcurrypowdertooilandheat,stirring,foroneminute.Addonionspepper.Tastepeas Add peastoalargepotofboilingwaterandsimmeruntiltender.(Thistakeslongerthangardenpeas.)Drain * Coconutmilkcanbemadefromscratch,butit’seasytobuyitcannedormakepowder.Ifusingcanned, salt andspicetotaste 1 hotpepper,minced 2 mediumonions,chopped 1 Tablespooncurrymassalapowder 2 Tablespoonscanolaoil 4 Cupscoconutmilk* 1 poundpigeonpeas Coconut MilkPeas The recipesbelowcallforshelledfreshor“green”peas.Driedpigeonpeas,likealldriedbeans,takealotlonger Pigeon peasareagoodsourceofprotein,especiallyforvegetarians.Toreceivethemostbenefitfromor A ★ Since thatday,I’vetalkedtomanyislanderswhoeagerlywaitforpigeon-peaseasongetthenaturalnutty, P Come andfindusamongstthetrees! PLEASE RESERVE! Monday toSaturday Candelight Dinners you knewhelikedtoeat.Duringanislandtourstoppedafewtimesbuyfruit,suchasbananas base wasbustling.Imetataxidriver,Dennis,whohadvancalled few yearsagowewereanchoredinSecretHarbor,Grenada.Itwaspre-Ivan,andtheMooringscharter and sapodillas.Thenhepulledbesideatruckloadedwithpeapods.Itwasmyfirstexperience I Tel: nLwrBy Bequia in Lower Bay, G ( 784 ) SERVING ATSEABYSHIRLEYHALL 458-3758 E O N PORTHOLE RESTAURANT &BAR A friendlyatmospherewhere youcansitandmeetpeople. Noelina &Lennox Taylorwelcomeyou! & ShorelineMini-Market

P Admiralty Bay,Bequia Blue Angel E We servebreakfast, lunch anddinner . OnelookatDennisand A Phone (784)458-3458 VHF CH68 S

MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 47 tel: 440-2310 tel: grenada Down Island Ltd Parts - Repairs - Service www.islandvillas.com FAX: (473) 444 2899 Duty-Free Engines for Yachts Land and houses for sale Outboard Engines 2HP-250HP We also handle Villa Rentals & also handle Villa We For full details see our website: or contact Carolyn Alexander at or contact Carolyn PHONE: (473) 444 3944/1555 e-mail: [email protected] email: [email protected] exotic arts + crafts interior design e-mail: [email protected] & Hammocks Jewelry, Wooden-Ware

rare + young street st. georges Property Management on Carriacou Property Tel: (473) 443 8182 Fax: (473) 443 8290 (473) Tel: TOURS & CRUISES - CAR & JEEP RENTAL CARRIACOU REAL ESTATE McIntyre Bros. Ltd. TRUE BLUE, ST. GEORGE’S, GRENADA W.I. YAMAHA Compass and wish Caribbean has a core edito- content is appreciat- readers. —Continued on next page Compass Caribbean Compass Compass’s Compass relies on user-generated content — and performs a valuable role in encouraging peo- performs a valuable role in . Compass, Compass

As for hearing from CARICOM about the APIS-for- the about CARICOM from for hearing As best, All the Sally Dear issue of Meander in the February Re: Macareo All the best, Sally Your feedback about The Ms. Sharp has written: “Not all bottom paint will written: “Not all bottom Ms. Sharp has Sigma and Jotun, Interlux, Pettit, I contacted were put off from It would be a shame if cruisers might have includ- For example, the Macareo article We enjoy reading the Regards, John DeLong S/V Alouette Dear John, Thanks for your letter and for the information from

yachts misadventure, as far as we know, no statement as far as we misadventure, yachts made. was ever Compass you guys do a superb job! All your suggested additions to Ms. Sharp’s article would certainly be useful to other cruisers, but she was writing an anecdotal story about her own trip, not a comprehensive cruising guide. If anyone would like to offer a follow-up article including more detailed information, it would be most welcome indeed. Along with describing your adventures, we encourage future contributors to include in their articles specific information that will be of use to other cruisers. every month. While we do our best to ensure that we don’t publish anything untrue, we simply haven’t got the time or resources to do an in-depth research project on every subject that comes across our desk. (It has been brought to our attention, however, that www.yacht- paint.com/superyacht/PDS/Micron_66.htm says, “Not suitable for immersion in fresh water.” We’ll leave it to Micron 66 users to investigate this further.) remain effective after a prolonged immersion in fresh after a prolonged immersion remain effective new bottom be a shame to ruin that water. (It would quick weeks on the river.)” paint in a few of marine of these manufacturers SeaHawk. All in fresh confirmed that immersion antifouling paint of their paints water would not degrade performance noted that their “66” on return to saltwater. Interlux in fresh water for a paint should not be immersed week following initial application. area by unwarranted exploring this most interesting paint. The concerns over their bottom Compass new things, and in trans- ple to see new places and try Providing more and better mitting useful information. that. data is an important part of on how to prepare for a ed more specific suggestions how to check the trip to the rivers; perhaps including visit the Venezuelan US State Department fact sheets, yellow fever and malaria consulate in Trinidad, get how to provision (food inoculations and medications, and techniques may be and fuel) and what equipment and Immigration, and useful, how to clear Customs history books, field find resources (travel guides, guides) that might enhance the trip. you all the best for 2008. Jotun, Interlux, Pettit, Sigma and SeaHawk, which will be of interest to other rial staff of exactly two people (myself, full-time, and our Assistant Editor, part-time) to put together the ed. We would LOVE to supply “more and better data”. However, due to the financial constraints of a widely dis- tributed free publication, the edr’Forum Readers’ Editor, CC Dear Why did you send my rejection of eAPIS (January Why did you send my rejection The Caribbean Marine Association’s response makes Jim Hutchinson S/Y Ambia USA Hi Hutch, Your letter, along with others on the same topic, as The CMA is a trade association (it’s the regional I don’t know of any human rights or similar associa- Forum) to the Caribbean Marine Association? I want Forum) to the Caribbean Marine of this fraud, CARI- to know what the perpetrators do you mean, “Worry no COM, have to say! And what finished? No more more!” now that APIS is allegedly playing follow-the-leader ambushes by governments the name of the War on into an Orwellian future in or e-reports? No more pop- Terror? No more razor wire paranoid, useless, and up, unreasoned, intrusive, arbitrary intrusions on our freedom? That govern- ments are now going to use balance and logic in the War on Terror? it clear why you sent it to them. This isn’t about a wasteful procedure that is useless. Nor is it about arbitrary restrictions to personal freedoms. This is about inconveniencing people who have financial clout. Yachties are among the most conspicuous con- sumers. So, yachts are now exempt. Hooray! Another blow for freedom and democracy... rather, for capital- ism, consumerism, and the rights of the rich. submissions intended for the public domain, were for- warded to the CMA both for their published response and in the interest of the greater good, as the CMA was gathering statistics and public opinion in their effort to stop the application of eAPIS (the electronic Advance Passenger Information System) to yachts traveling in the CARICOM (Caribbean Economic Community) area as quickly as possible. umbrella body for all the national marine trade associ- ations in the Caribbean), so of course their emphasis in the matter is economic. By drawing attention to its eco- nomic repercussions, among other factors such as those you mentioned in your previous letter (e.g. unworkable regulations that make people flout the law), the CMA was successful in having the application of eAPIS to yachts stopped. tion who took up the anti-APIS cause, never mind the wider cause of ensuring unrestricted personal freedom for all. Wouldn’t it be great if one did? MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 48 lcrnc,Cadey Chandlery, Electronics, • Visa/MasterCardaccepted • Activitydesk(Tours,divingandwatersportactivities) • Lightboatrepairandcleaning • YachtchandleryagentsofBudgetMarine • Telephone&internetWIFIconnection • Garbagedisposal • Cleanrestroomsandshowers • Bakery • Ice&Provisioning(Grocerystore) • Nightsecurity • Securedmoorings • Nearbylaundryservice • Dinghydock • Fuel(MarineDiesel)/Wateratthedock • DinghyBar www.midatlanticyachtservices.com PT-9900-144 HORTA /FAIAL saw their adin to tellouradvertisers you & soonMercuryMarine YACHT SERVICES EU-VAT (15%)Importation Bunkered Fuel(+10,000lt) for Trans-Atlantic Yachts FAX +351292391656 TEL +351292391616 [email protected] MID ATLANTIC ☛ Services &Repairs Services Providing allvital AZORES REMEMBER Compass [email protected] www.dominicamarinecenter.com Capitainerie Tel:+7672752851 THE CITYOFROSEAU UNIQUE INDOMINICA VHF: 16WorkingCH:19 Fax: +7674487701 SITUATED IN ! Grenada!) by thenightclubsinCarlisleBay. days, giventhepersistentmega-decibelmusicplayed most ofwhomdidnotintendtostaymorethanafew in CarlisleBay;2007thenumberwasdownto27, money. In1980thereweresome125yachtsanchored other beautifulislandswhereonecanspendone’s they won’tstayforlong.Afterall,therearelotsof even ifyachtsgotherewithoutrealizingtheproblems, facilities andweirdCustomsregulations,meanthat lantic yachts,butthecumbersomeformalities,lackof cial accompaniedthepackagestoyacht! could avoidthedutywasifaBarbadosCustomsoffi- Grenada, againmarked“InTransit”.TheonlywayI paid —eventhoughtheywerebeingbroughttomein refused toreleasetheitemsuntildutyhadbeen and broughttomehere.ThePostOffice,however, to becollectedbyaninternationalcouriercompany had beendeliveredtoBarbados.Iarrangedforthese either paythedutyoryoucan’thavegoods. had alloftheship’spapers,etcetera,withme.Itwas that thegoodswereclearlymarked“InTransit”andI US$35 topurchase)throughCustoms,despitethefact pay someUS$90toclearanalmanac(approximately visited theisland30yearsago.Inaddition,Ihadto ing yachtsareworsenowthantheywerewhenIfirst island andthepeopleveryfriendly,facilitiesforvisit- fect anchorage300daysayear,uncomfortable40 groundswell, butinanaverageyearitwouldbeaper- landings insidethelagoon. that aten-minuteridetotownoranyofthedinghy decent-sized outboards,thisanchorageisnomore today’s yachtsalmostuniversallyhavedinghieswith Since ing, awhitesandbottomandclean,clearwater. Mary’s BayandRossPointShoal,onefindsgoodhold- harbour, onthesouthsideofentranceSt. Rightoutsidetheentranceto ly longerdinghyride. 40 spotsifyachtsmenarejustwillingtotakeaslight- of spaceforevenmorethanthesupposedlylost30to material isagoodfiveormorefeetdown. still nothitanyrealsolidclayorsand.Goodholding shove yourarmintothesoupuptoshoulderand in thelagoontountangleanchors,youdiscovercan have everhadthemisfortune(asIhave)todive Ifyou bad; youareanchoringinblack,gooeySOUP. Holdinginthelagooncanonlybedescribedas of times. whichisnotthatgoodananchorageatthebest Lagoon, anchoring spotsforvisitingyachtsinSt.George’s owned resorts. much oftheincomefromcruiseshipsorforeign- money thatstaysontheislandforalongtime,unlike Grenada— and putmoneyintothelocaleconomyof Thiswillcreatejobs expanded yachtingcommunity. yachting infrastructuretofulfilltheneedsof mega-yachts willnecessitateamajorexpansionofthe as awhole. bonus tobothyachtinginGrenadaandtheislands thinking personthewholeoperationwillbeahuge George’s Lagoonandthesurroundingarea,toany Peter deSavary’soperationsaroundtheedgesofSt. Dear (Currently tryingtoprisemyanchorawayfrom Linda LaneThornton Kind regards, Barbados isanaturalfirststopformanytransat- Similarly, whileinGrenada,Ifoundthatotheritems While IappreciatethatBarbadosisabeautiful Dear frompreviouspage —Continued Admittedly, thisanchorageisopentothenorthwest But freeanchorageisnotreallylost.Thereplenty beenlost?Thirty,oratthemost40free has What A 350-berthmarinawithanadditionaltenberthsfor Regarding thePortLouisMarinainGrenadaand Compass Compass, , marine pollutioninlastmonth’s dates thearrivalofanyyachts.[Seemyarticleon or theyachtclubdock,headtosouthcoast. able whenboatswouldhavetogointothenewmarina days, veryuncomfortable20andfivedaysunten- Caribbean countries. ance proceduresmoreinlinewiththoseofother currently lookingintobringingAntigua’syachtclear- out justoneformattheImmigrationoffice.TheABMAis process. Inmanyneighboringcountries,theskipperfills completed formsbacktoImmigrationcompletethe for eachpersonaboardtofillout,thenbringallthe himself atImmigration,returntotheyachtwithaform Immigration requiresthearrivingskippertopresent about time-devouringpaperwork.ApparentlyAntigua recently arenotaboutpersonaltreatment,butrather very fewcomplaintsfromyachtsclearinginatAntigua. from theAPISkafufflelatelastyear),wehavereceived Minister ofTourismwerepresent.Sincethen(aside yachting symposiumatwhichthePrimeMinisterand led theissue,includingairingitataMay16thpublic Association (ABMA)andtheAntiguagovernmenttack- Antigua. ThentheAntigua&BarbudaMarine about unpleasantexperiencesatImmigrationin part of2007, to AntiguaSailingWeekitwasbeforeMay.Intheearly treated poorlyatJollyHarbour,althoughifitwasprior tourism, mostofthemwouldnothaveajob. as iftheydon’twantvisitorsthere.Ifitweren’tfor on theotherhandallowsitsofficialstoberudeandact hand encouragestourismandthemoneyitbrings, I feeldonotneedtosupportacountrythatonone and willnotgothereatallthisseason. Harbour, thatIdecidednottogobackforRaceWeek Antigua. Iwastreatedsopoorlylastyear,atJolly almost goneoutoftheirwaytodiscouragevisiting been okaytoworkwithbutImmigrationofficialshave we startedtovisitAntiguaagain. things hadbecomesomewhatbetter.Becauseofthat most difficultcheck-ins.Bytheturnofcentury the worstreputationforunfriendlyofficialsand experience withAntiguaofficials. of EnglishHarborforsixmonths,soIdohavesome Caribbean andMexico.Iworkedonacharterboatout Grenada asawhole. islandof both theyachtingcommunityand obvious thatPortLouisMarinaisagreatbenefitto the reasoncisternandspoutceasedoperation. lution ofthegroundwateracenturyormoreagowas Ibelievethatpol- come alongsideandpickupwater. tern abigpipeledouttothepoint,whereshipscould (now filledin,itisundertheparkinglot).Fromcis- pumped toahugecisternneartheYachtClubsite Spout. Waterfromthenaturalspringswasonce where theGrenadaYachtClubislocatedcalledThe around thelagooniscalledSprings,andplace The lagoonishorriblypolluted,pollutionthatpre- CC And, thecomplaintswehaveheardfromAntigua You don’tspecifyexactlywhenlastyearyouwere Dear Hoping, Yacht Visitor Hoping tobeWelcomeAgainSoon Please signme, Until Ihearthatthingshavechangedforthebetter, Last year,thingsturnedfortheworse.Customshas During thelate1970sandearly’80s,Antiguahad My backgroundis28yearscruisingtheEastern Dear Compass, Ireland Glandore Don Street When thewholesituationishonestlyreviewed,it Compass received anumberofcomplaints —Continued onnextpage —Continued Compass ]Thearea .]

MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 49 MARTINIQUE Open 7/7 Compass… Contact : Anke Contact : Anke Chandlery Guadeloupe – F.W.I Guadeloupe Tel: +596 74 87 55 Fax: +596 74 85 39 for your Boat the Phone : + 590 (0) 590 831 775 Phone : + 590 New & Second-Hand Chandlery New & Second-Hand All the Supplies, All the Supplies, E.mail : [email protected] Open 6 days a week except Sundays Open 6 days Charts – Sails - Book Exchange etc… Charts – Sails Please Support Them. & Safety Equipment Our Advertisers Support Close to Marina Bas-du-Fort - Pointe à Pitre Bas-du-Fort - Pointe Close to Marina Dutch – English – French – German spoken Dutch – English – French email: [email protected] S C H I P - O - C A S E C A S - O - H I P S C Port de Plaisance 97290, Le Marin Your Caribbean Marine Flea Market Flea Marine Caribbean Your

GUY DEAN TOHATSU FOR RENT High pressure cleaners 150/250bars Electrical tools Diverse hand tools Vacuum cleaner for water Scaffolding Readers, Readers, Compass Compass If the yachting companies, especially the Switch the especially companies, yachting If the is taking up moor- to mention point I want One more in gen- St. Vincent & the Grenadines The people of Please sign me, Concerned Citizen St. Vincent & the Grenadines Hi, We have just sailed to Panama via Colombia. We We have just sailed to Panama for tricky anchor- We have included lots of waypoints Our website address is www.sailalga.net. Erik and Foss Alga Dear We want to hear from YOU! boat name or address, Please include your name, We do not publish individual consumer complaints or Letters may be edited for length, clarity and fair play. Send your letters to: [email protected] or fax (784) 457-3410 or Compass Publishing Ltd. Readers’ Forum Box 175BQ Bequia St. Vincent & the Grenadines yachts, will advise their captains and the people who and the people captains will advise their yachts, us to it will help this matter, their boats about charter — wel- product cleaner tourism better and make a successful. hygienic and coming, at your own Grenadines. It will be ings in the Southern moorings have been cast adrift from risk. Many yachts moorings are have reported to me that and many more moorings; Be careful when taking not fully maintained. if you use the anchor also. it will be safer and we hospitable, loving and kind, eral are very the help of maintain that standard with would like to the yachting public. have been doing a website for friends back home, but have been doing a website have put in a lot more with other sailors in mind because not many peo- details of the Colombian coast ple go that way. and some pictures. ages and there are descriptions you (preferably by e-mail) if and a way we can contact clarification is required. individual regatta results complaints. (Kudos are okay!) We do not publish anonymous letters; however, your name may be withheld from print at your request. [email protected] (filters, impellers, belts) All at Phone: +590 590 907 137 Fax: +590 590 908 651 E-mail: Marina Pointe-a-Pitre 97110 Guadeloupe F.W.I. SALES - REPAIRS - MAINTENANCE Filtration FLEETGUARD Anodes,Shaft bearings Electric parts, batteries Primers and Antifouling International Various lubricants GOODS Genuine parts Yanmar & Tohatsu Basic spare parts readers that NASPA stands behind readers that NASPA stands , , Compass

Compass Compass that one takes a mooring there at one’s own risk. that one takes a mooring there

There are far fewer “swooshers” (Air Marine wind “swooshers” far fewer There are —Continued page from previous Many more boats are showing some form of anchor are showing some form Many more boats sheer num- news is that of Nevis. The The really bad Sue Simons S/V Lorensu Dear Sue, General Manager of We spoke with Spencer Hanley, We are now in Martinique (mid-February), trying to trying (mid-February), now in Martinique We are the need for the “at your He explained, however, that Mr. Hanley adds that the Port Authority welcomes sug- CC Dear I would like to inform the boating public sailing in People must be aware of the risk of food poisoning Please, I’m asking the boating public to be aware of I also observe when a boat enters Mayreau or the Dear SERVICES Mechanics and Electricity Boat Maintenance Engine diagnosis Breakdown service 24/7 Haulout and hull sand blasting Equipment for rent Technical shop

MARINE MECHANICS (ALL MAKES) - HAUL OUT - 24h BREAKDOWN SERVICE LEAVE YOUR BOAT IN SKILLED HANDS Sea light. The bad news is that there were five flashing news is that there were light. The bad here. visible when we first anchored anchor lights do people buy these things? Where and why mind. Also, I read in ber of moorings boggles the a mooring, it fails and I So if I am required to take is liable? What would be damage another boat, who not so many people go to the legal position? Sadly, to be the outcry that there Nevis, so there is unlikely was over APIS. Authority (NASPA), who the Nevis Air & Sea Ports assures generators). Those that are here are often considerate that are here are often generators). Those only been in isolated spots. We have enough to anchor metres, when at a range of over 300 bothered by one, to congregate up and boats started the wind kicked hole in Marin. near the hurricane source parts to replace our rigging. Meantime, here Meantime, our rigging. parts to replace source of 2008. at the start observations are a few the operator-error type fac- own risk” clause is due to control — such as how tors which NASPA does not crews tie up to a mooring, what they use to tie up with, etcetera — but could cause a boat to go adrift and/or damage another. (He gave as an example a crew who chose to let out an excessive length of mooring line, allowing their boat to swing into another moored boat when the wind shifted.) gestions from the boating public. He can be contacted at [email protected] or tel (869) 469-2001. the Southern Grenadines around Tobago Cays, Mayreau and Union Island, that food prepared by the boatboys on the beaches is not always hygienic for vis- itors. The same is true of food cooked in private homes and delivered to yachts. These informal enterprises do not carry a health license, but their business is getting bigger and cheaper day by day. and the right hygiene for food handlers. The restau- rants, which are regularly inspected and licensed, have been losing business by 50 percent or more for the last two years, despite an increase in the number of yachts sailing in our waters. this because when someone is poisoned again — as in the incident last year with food poisoning by the boat- boys — who will they blame it on? This presents a danger to tourism in general. Much of the informal food vending I observe is done by school drop-outs, young boys and ex-convicts who look for an easy way to survive. Will they be looking out for people’s health? Tobago Cays, they cannot have their privacy or even have time to put their anchor down peacefully, before hearing cries of “Do you like me to cook you lobster?” or “Do you like me to provide dinner for you and deliv- er to the boat?” It is becoming a hustle. the strength of the moorings per se and if a yacht the strength of the moorings result of a mooring that is should be damaged as a course take responsibility. proven faulty, NASPA will of MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 50 appear in the Ahoy, Caribbean Compass Wallace &Co. W&W Supermarket Tradewinds CruiseClub Restaurant Salty Dog PortHole Restaurant Max Marine Mac’s Pizzeria Lulley’s Tackle GYE Grenadine Sails Friendship RoseOffice Frangipani Hotel Doris FreshFood De ReefRestaurant Dawn’s BeachCafé Bequia TourismAssn. Bequia PostOffice Bequia Bookshop Compass bold PICK UP! ): Readers! WheninBequia,pickupyourfreemonthlycopyof at anyoftheselocations(advertisersinthisissue good togetupdatedonwhat’shappenin’nowadaysinsomeoftheseplaces.” since I’dcruised’emmyself,soIsays,“Whynot?Hell,that’smyoldpond.It’llbe Southern California,themoneylookedprettygood,andit’dbeenagoodfewyears by boatascar,andthathehadgottenitfrom interesting placesthathewantedtovisit,andthoughtmightaswelldo it obtained hislistofanchorages.Herepliedthatitwasn’taanchorages,butjust Since Iknewthathe’dneverbeentotheWindwardsbefore,askedwherehehad sides ofSt.LuciaandVincent,IndustryBayonBequia,SauteursinGrenada. to go,alistthatwasquiteridiculous.Itincludedunprotectedbaysonthewindward cat, anchored nexttousbutthemanwhowrotebook—“Dr.Demento”hisself,inhisnew 1:30, wewereanchoredbehindPigeonPointby4:30.Ididadouble-take;whowas thing forthesecatamarans:theywillscootoffthewind,soeventhoughweleftwellafter then metthefolks,andoffwewent,boundforRodneyBay,St.Lucia.NowI’llsay one checked outtheboat(itwasoneo’thesefancycatamaransthatareallragerightnow), a mostsensibleplan.SoIflewdowntoLeMarininMartiniquefewdaysearlyand ble atthistimeo’year.”Prettyinnocentstuff,you’dthink.You’dbewrong. Iolaire chartsthatcoverthearea,andyoucanstudywherewanttogothat’sfeasi- Chris Doyle’s mighty fineifyou’rehitch-hikingacrossEurope,butforsailingintheCaribbean,gobuy lived toregretit(notforthefirsttime,Imightadd).said,Godhelpme,“WellFodor’s is Read inNextMonth’s S So Ie-mailedtheprospectivechartererandgotbackalistofplaceshewanted Well, heboughtthatbookandthosecharts,studied’em,cameupwith That’s whenImademybigmistake.calledhim,andopenedmouth,sure Done InbyDr.D Ti Kanot through theWindwardIslands.Well,Iwaskindaboredsittin’herein a charterskipper,andtakethesefriendsofhersonthree-weekcruise o Igetsthiscallfromafriend-of-a-friend,y’see,tocomeoutofretirementas Guadeloupe toMontserrat… byPaddleboard! Sailing Directions:Leaving theCaribbean and Squeaky . Someofmyguestsswambyandmethim.Itwasthebeginningend. Sailors’ GuidetotheWindwardIslands Cruisers’ Angel FallsAdventure WHAT’S ONMYMIND … andmore! by WilliamPringle , andgetasetofDonStreet’sImray- Fodor’s GuidetotheCaribbean Compass —Continued onnextpage —Continued . : MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 51 $199,000 49’ 1979 Transpacific Ketch ACANCIES! Sail Power [email protected] Tel: (340) 779-1660 Fax: (340) 779-2779 St. Thomas, U.S.V.I. 00802 www.stthomasyachts.com Bequia, St Vincent & the Grenadines Bequia, St Vincent [email protected] Compass Point Marina, 6300 Est. Frydenhoj, Suite 28, Compass Point Marina, 6300 Est. Frydenhoj, Suite 28, TradeWinds Cruise Club operate a fleet of catamarans across a fleet of catamarans across Cruise Club operate TradeWinds in the Caribbean. six destinations charter company, are the fastest growing We all inclusive, 7 days. TERM CHARTERS, operating CREW V CREW $95,000 or by mail to: Bequia Marina, P.O.Box 194BQ, Port Elizabeth, P.O.Box or by mail to: Bequia Marina, email: [email protected] email: Tel. St Vincent +784 457 3407 Tel. St Maarten +599 5510550 Tel. +784 457 3407 St Vincent Tel. ST. THOMAS YACHT THOMAS ST. SALES 40’ 1984 Endeavour Sloop Call, fax or visit our website for a complete list of boats for sale 33’ 1973 Pearson 10M Sloop, refit, new eng. paint,40’ 1984 Endeavour sloop, Well maintained, ready to cruise,49’ 1979 Transpacific Ketch, Bluewater cruiser, Excellent cond.55’ 1956 Custom Yawl, Excellent charter business, CG cert for 18 $199,000 $250,000 $ 95,000 30’ 1987 Luhrs Alura, Lobster/Picnic boat, diesel $ 33,500 31’ 1998 Sea Ray Sundancer, Excellent Condition 43’ 1990 Marine Trader, A/C, radar, never chartered $ 85,000 44’ 1986 Tollycraft MY, Cockpit, twin cats $ 49,500 $129,500 $110,000 We are looking for crew, mainly teams in the form of a Captain and a Chef/Hostess. teams in the form of a Captain mainly are looking for crew, We for at least a year. OR have been living together prefer couples that are married We and teamwork better the understanding the job is such that the The nature of your charters will be. and Chef the more successful between Captain a Skipper’sRequirements: Captain with licence. understanding of cooking. Chef/Hostess with a basic either the Captain and/or Chef is a plus. Dive master/ instructor for full training onsite in the Caribbean. offer We earning potential. If you are willing to work hard and This is a FUN job with great to life this could be your DREAM job. have a positive disposition welcome to apply. Anyone with an interest is about this job or send your CV to us, please If you would like more information use this email address: go aground so long ago. Lord Jim NEW 63’ SAIL CAT SEATING FOR 90 PASSENGERS NEW CATAMARANS • Available as single or double deck 49 passengers, Base price $199,000

All new Offshore 53’ catamaran Twin diesel, AVAILABLE FOR IMMEDIATE DELIVERY • Fast delivery • Twin Diesel - Base Price $299,000 • Fast delivery • Twin Diesel - Base Price • 63 x 24 Power Cat USCG Stability test for 149 PAX • 63 x 24 Power Cat USCG Stability test Then they started in with Squeaky. “Hey, that bay where you want to anchor Then they started in with to me, in a high nasal pitch, about the approaches to And so it went. They read well. Is this any way to treat By then, I could have strangled Chris, and Squeaky as us anchored 200 meters Useless to show them that the RayMarine GPS plot shows Now I remember why I retired from the charter biz. So I dinghied over, and Chris and I talked “old talk” for awhile, and then my char- and then my talk” for awhile, I talked “old Chris and over, and So I dinghied he wants: good anchorages. Whatever no probs, mon; they’re both Hey, I think, well-inten- go ANYWHERE without some from there. I couldn’t It just got worse to be steering 145 degrees,” they would declare. “Are you “Doyle says you’re supposed 145 all right.” For all they know, I’m steering 500 “Oh, yes,” I tell ’em, “I’m steering OUT LOUD all about the Young Island Cut, and the But they had to read to me Call Ron Cooper (727) 367- 5004 • www.coopermarine.com tonight,” (Glossy Bay, Canouan) “the Imray-Iolaire chart shows only half an anchor!” tonight,” (Glossy Bay, Canouan) I thought, “If I’da known that ol’ Don only gave this they’d declaim. “Jeeze Louise,” a anchored here for the last 36 years!” It was place a half an anchor, I wouldn’ta the moon, a few days short of full, shinin’ on the water, beautiful calm night, with an They hated it. Squeaky had only given it half and not another boat in sight. he was just tryin’ to save money on ink. anchor. Hell, knowing him, in Union Island; Windward, the Tobago Cays; the entrance to Clifton Harbour Bay (where I lived for four Carriacou (where I help sponsor a regatta); and Tyrrel straight into the harbour! Are years). “Take a bearing on the Sister Rocks, and come you taking a bearing on the Sister Rocks?!?” and half-anchors? I contem- an old friend and shipmate, to torture him with prose it would have done no good; plated throwing both book and charts overboard, but bought others to replace my guests were hooked, addicted, and would only have to keelhaul. them, further enriching those very individuals that I wished we’re demonstrably still inland — indeed, part way up one of the Pitons — when wrong, the book is always floating nicely to an offshore mooring. The map is never right, and we need TO READ IT TO YOU IN A LOUD VOICE. ter was on its way south to Soufriere, where our batteries went dead, but that’s went dead, our batteries where south to Soufriere, on its way ter was started. real trouble that the for St. Vincent when we left story. It was another that we I suggested problems, boat-attack was experiencing Chateaubelair Because “Doyle charterer said, no,” my by-now-informed instead. “No, in Wallilabou anchor there instead.” real St. Vincent,’ so let’s go Bay is more like ‘the says that Cumberland director. he’s the program me from the sail- party reading aloud to member of the charter tioned but misguided to be seen in our the lovely boutiques soon or worse — descriptions of ing directions, and appar- importance to my guests, These were of paramount port of destination. describing their he goes to great lengths interest to Chris as well, since ently of some when I’m try- in my personal interest Nonetheless, they diminish manifest delights. where light coming into an anchorage damn red buoy in the fading ing to see the anchor lights, a few of them probably dragging anchor, half the idiots are without and mebbe drunk to boot. useless to tell them that we’re coming into the anchorage steering 145 degrees?” It was that I’ve anchored in this very place scores of times. from the other direction, or and they’d believe me. degrees; I could tell ’em that, my assurances that I knew the place well, my eld- many amenities ashore, despite to there, for the love o’ Ned. And about the entrance est son having been BORN of Devil’s Table!” they’d shout. And the Montezuma Shoal Admiralty Bay, “Steer clear the horror of seeing west of Mustique, where I had —Continued page from previous MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 52 SERU BOCAMARINA www.santabarbaraplantation.com SAILMAKING, RIGGING,ELECTRONICS For asafeberth… S.I.M.S. Boatyard, True Blue,Grenada stainless steelandaluminium items. TechNick Ltd. Grenada Marine•SpiceIsland welding. Fabricationandrepair of Engineering, fabricationand Tel: (473)536-1560/435-7887 [email protected] Nick Williams, Manager [email protected] Caribbean CompassMarketPlace [email protected] Tel/Fax (473)439-4495 Grenada Curaçao Antigua Bequia Yamaha engines and service and service We sell Flyingfish VenturesLtd Accreditation - American Boatand Yacht Council OceanYachtmaster(Commercial) RYA Society of Accredited MarineSurveyors MarineSurveyor Accredited Bob Goodchild www.caraibe-greement.fr [email protected] Marine Survey throughout theCaribbean throughout Marine Survey Phone: +(596)596748033Cell:(596)696276605 [email protected] PURCHASE –INSURANCE-DAMAGE G G G Centre deCarenage97290LeMarin N R Cruising Rally I I e-mail: [email protected] [email protected] Marine Surveyors,Grenada Tel: Grenada (+1473)4074388 Grenada Tel: LE MARIN,MARTINIQUE•GRENADA Phone (+596) 596747770 THE SPECIALISTFOR BOAT MAINTENANCE www.carenantilles.com Tel: +590(0)690494 Guadeloupe Fax: +596(0)596747916 [email protected] Martinique Tel: +596(0)5967480 www.transcaraibes.com IN MARTINIQUE Grenada Boatyard LeMarin TRANSCARAIBES 2008 April 20,2008 Guaeloupe toCuba March 29- Martinique R D N A H C H E P S L I Voiles Assistance Sails &Canvas(repairsfabrication) Open MondaytoFriday8-12am2-6pm + (599)553-3850/(590)690-222473 continued onnextpage e-mail: [email protected] LE MARIN/MARTINIQUE located atCarenantillesdockyard S S tel/fax: (596)596748832 -al [email protected] E-mail: t t Saturday byappointment . Martinique St Maarten . Packages Pick–upcall: M M Didier andMaria n.001-3057042314 Int. a a a a r r t are/S.Mri,collect Martin, St. Maarten/ St. COURIER SERVICES CIRExpress t t and deliver doorto e e n n MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 53 Book it now: THIS COULD BE YOUR MARKET PLACE AD Caribbean-wide or contact your local island agent [email protected] Trinidad St Lucia, Grenada St Thomas, St Maarten, St www.IslandWaterWorld.com [email protected] Caribbean-wide Marine Distributors P: 599-544-5310 F: 599-544-3299 BARGE CAPTAIN or contact Tom at (784) 457 3409 • [email protected] If you would like to join our team contact: join our team like to would If you Our company has over 20 years in experience. in experience. 20 years has over Our company To advertise in Caribbean Compass Market Place, see list of island agents on page 4 To advertise in Caribbean Compass Market Required for established marine construction established for company. Required Flexibility to work in all regions of the Caribbean necessary. of the Caribbean in all regions work to Flexibility

Trinidad

Must have the ability to manage and run 120 ft. live aboard barge. aboard live the ability manage and run 120 ft. to Must have Caribbean Compass Market Place Market Compass Caribbean St Vincent 1-784-456-9526 / 9334 Commitment and reliability a must. Previous experience an asset. an asset. experience Previous and reliability a must. Commitment & Marine Centre Centre & Marine Blue Lagoon, St Vincent Blue Lagoon, [email protected] www.barefootyachts.com Tony Cooper at 246 230-2158 or E-mail [email protected] 246 230-2158 or at Cooper Tony Bareboats – Fully Crewed Yachts – Yachts – Fully Crewed Bareboats ASA Sailing School – Full ServiceASA Sailing School – Full Marine Centre Barefoot Yacht Charters Charters Yacht Barefoot MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 54 , 2mains,spinnaker,TV,CD, Yanmar 2GM20,newAwlgrip,2 PEARSON 30'BUILT1973 [email protected] Tel: (784)458-8829E-mail: www.artandsea.com. Island, SVG.Infoon ready tosail,locatedPalm tion, plentyofnewupgrades, 1986 Beneteau51 [email protected] (596)696907429 E-mail more infoandpicturesTel US$199,000, lyingSt.Lucia.For aboard andcruiser well equipped,excellentlive glass, gc,newengine,very VENUS 46,1984KETCH photos www.graall990.fr Grenada $275,000infoand sons, crewcabin.Located fortably accomodates8per- w/settee andbarareacom- met galleyup,largesalon guest cabinsw/heads,gour- GRAAL 49CATAMARAN [email protected] specs/pictures E-mail 119,000 Canadian,for below currentsurvey,asking seen, hauledinAntigua,well far toomuchtolist,mustbe ers,radar/arch, dinghy/davits, tackle, cockpitcushions/cov- fridge/freezer, interior,ground tor/water-maker, batteries, ics, separatedieselalterna- new upsizedrig,allelectron- and upgradesin'05including COAST 34 DETSRLCTO PG LOCATION ADVERTISER icvr aio tLca14 36 22 51 St.Lucia St.Maarten Curaçao 27 8 USA 12 45 Discovery Marigot Diesel Outfitters Martinique 49 Curaçao Marine Martinique Caribbean Mustique Corea's FoodStoreMustique 43 11 Guadeloupe Cooper Marine 46 Chris Doyle'sGuides Martinique 15 50 Carene Shop UnionIsland Antigua Carenantilles 2 Caraibe Yachts Grenada 45 Tortola Caraibe Greement SintMaarten 34 9 Captain Gourmet Camper &Nicholsons Mustique By Design Carriacou 47 BVI YachtSales Bequia 18 Budget Marine 32 Bogles RoundHouse Grenada 34 36 Bequia MarineCenter PetiteMartinique St.Vincent Venezuela 17 Basil’s Bar 37 Barefoot YachtCharters Antigua Bahia RedondaMarina B &CFuelDock Antigua Art Fabrik Antigua ClassicRegatta UK Anjo Insurance Admiral YachtInsurance BOATS FORSALE , 1984,majorrefit Nice condi- , new fiber- 4 Courrier Tel(784)432-1767 Vincent. 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LyingSt. and dblquarterberth,6'2" sleeps 5withV-berth,settee Yanmar diesel,shoaldraft, WATKINS 27SLOOP [email protected] 312-2993 E-mail US$329,000 Tel(868) dinghy w/10hpMercury. batteries, newinflatable 170w solarpanels,16Trojan upper deckw/fullcover,9x loaded electronics,12'x21' CAT 2001 LAGOON43POWER [email protected] Margarita US$20,000E-mail fortable, goodcondition,lying England 1993,strongandcom- SUPER ATLANTAVIKING27' E-mail [email protected] PLEASE! condition, OFFERS wheel steering,lotsmore.Good mad.com Tel(473)415-1026 Details onwww.petetheno- blue watercruiserUS$75K ALOCK 34 PACIFIC SEACRAFTCRE- web.mac.com/famouspotatoes2 follow heradventurenowat Sale Summer2008.Youcan Admiral 38Catamaran.For FAMOUS POTATOES E-mail [email protected] excellent condition, highly regarded # DETSRLOCATIONPG ADVERTISER aksBrBqi 44 Bequia 56 SintMaarten 48 9 47 UK25/43 13 Jack's Bar Martinique Island WaterWorld 28 30 Grenada Island DreamsYachtServices Bequia 44 42 Iolaire Enterprises Tortola Grenada 49 Horizon YachtManagement 46 37 St.Vincent Bequia GRPro-Clean Guadeloupe Bequia Grenadines Sails Grenadine IslandVillas Grenada Bequia Grenada Marine 46 Gourmet Foods 17 Friendship Rose 16 Fred Marine Bequia 3 Frangipani Hotel Jamaica 5 Food Fair Antigua 45 Fernando's Hideaway 33 47 Falmouth HarbourMarina Tortola 24 Errol FlynnMarina Trinidad Echo Marine-JotunSpecial Carriacou Bequia Grenada Martinique Doyle OffshoreSails 48 Down IslandRealEstate Douglas YachtServices 31 Doris FreshFood Dominica Dopco Travel Martinique Dominica MarineCenter Dockwise YachtTransport 1979 2005 Built [email protected] (58) 416-3824187E-mail deliveries. TelCrisRobinson cal problemsandyacht INSURANCE SURVEYS, PUERTO LACRUZ,VENZ. [email protected] after 6pm. E-mail owner. Call(784)4564963 Serious buyersonly.Saleby Point, HouseandLand. BEQUIA US$200,000 Tel(473)442-1897 location, goodanchorage, overlooking CrayfishBay,quiet 1/4 acreland300ydsfromsea bished 3bedroomhouseon N.W. GRENADA www.grenadinevillas.com [email protected] E-mail Tel (784)4550969 Bequia life. 750,000US, relax&enjoy 320,000US, Moonhole 1.600,000US, Friendship 1,750,000US LowerBay 900,000US, SpringVilla 1,890,000US, AdmiraltyBay Apartments Business 2,000,000US, TheVillage sic Belmontvillain1acre BEQUIA PROPERTIES www.caribtrace.com Grenadines andTyrrelBay views overlookingSouthern and multiacretracts.Great CARRIACOU, ONEACRELOTS [email protected] rental available.E-mail fruit trees.US$320,000,Term land, fencedwithmature road -nostairs!12,558sqftof full kitchen,laundry,levelwith bedrooms, 1guestbedroom, yards frombeach.2master Lovely 1250sqft.cottage,100 FRIENDSHIP BAY,BEQUIA [email protected] US$10,000 OBOE-mail 84hp, 2yearsold. AVON 11FTJETSKIDINGHY E-mail [email protected] Tel (473)439-4495/415-8271 tihulls. 16-17&22meters. has 3mastssuitableformono/mul- MASTS -TURBULENCEGRENADA PROPERTY FORSALE MISC. FORSALE , LowerBay,Bells SERVICES ADVERTISERS INDEX ADVERTISERS INDEX ADVERTISERS INDEX ADVERTISERS INDEX Recently refur- CLASSIFIEDS A clas- electri- # DETSRLOCATIONPG ADVERTISER are deliveredFREE [email protected] Orders 3008 E-mailbequiasweet- order Tel(784)457-3527/433- butter crescents.Toplace banana bread,herbs&flax, day! Wholewheat,multigrain, & Cakesmadefreshevery BEQUIA HOMEMADEBREADS E-mail [email protected] 2897 www.nzimbu-browne.com drum Tel(784)457-1677/531- nous bananacraftanddjembe CRAFTS ST. VINCENT-NZIMBUARTS& services. Tel(473)404-2707 tions andahostofother chasing, sourcing,reserva- warding, billpayment,pur- mail managementandfor- catering, errandservices, providing concierge, CARIBBEAN VIRTUALOFFICE [email protected] Tel (784)457-3291E-mail tomized canvasspecialist Interior/exterior/cus- BEQUIA -CANVAS full moon.VHF16 6pm Moonlightpartyevery Happy Houreverydayfrom5- personal laundryservice. propane tankfill-up, sale. Taxiserviceavailable, Eggs, bread,cheese,iceon NIMROD’S RUMSHOP,GRENADA age conditionstructurallyand was surveyedataboveaver- of $400,000.InDec'07boat year withanapproxturnover 30-week longchartersper multihull whichaverages20to Sale includesalarge12Pax to betransferredbyshares. company thatallowsallassets to expand.Thisisalimited operating permitsandroom with broadTradeLicense,all itable Sail&SCUBAbusiness BVI YACHT CHARTERBUSINESS In PLCTel(58)416-3824187 www.watercraftwatermaker.com Check ourpricesat and PuertoLaCruz,Venezuela. service availableatCuracao tems, membranes,sparesand WATERMAKERS E-mail [email protected] Tel (473)537-9193/538-4608 ft bags.Allunderwaterservices salvage/emergency/moorings/li UNDERWATER DIVINGSERVICES BUSINESS FORSALE e n alGaeop 48 49 Guadeloupe Guadeloupe 23 45 21 8 46 Curaçao 40 Sea andSail Bequia Schip-O-Case Aruba 27 Grenada 10 Santa BarbaraResorts Bequia Salty DogSportsBar Martinique 43 PSV Renaissance Marina Tortola 51 Prickly BayMarina Venezuela Porthole Restaurant 6 53 Ponton duBakoua 46 47 Trinidad Petit St.Vincent 25 48 9 Barbados Perkins Engines Tortola Peake YachtBrokerage 49 Grenada Bequia Caribbean Northern LightsGenerators Azores Navimca Bequia Martinique Mid AtlanticYachtServices 41 McIntyre Bros.Ltd 37 Marenco St.Thomas 37 35 Mac's Pizza St.Vincent Lulley's Tackle 26 LIAT St.Vincent St.Croix Le Ship Lagoonieville St.Lucia Lagoon MarinaHotel KP Marine Jones Maritime Johnson Hardware Turnkey, longterm,prof- for highqualityindige- Complete sys- - Studio inTrellisBay,BVI.Ideal required atourbusyArt ager andshopassistant ees.Welder/Workshop man- DIO TORTOLA -ARAGORNSSTU- [email protected] (284) 494-6972E-mail experience preferred.FaxCV background withmarine control issues.Mechanical the abilitytohandlequality and costaccountingskills, al skills,projectmanagement claims, strongcommunication- reports andpreparewarranty skills, abilitytowriteservice have excellentorganizational Road Town,Tortola,BVI.Must Industrial Servicebusinessin needed forbusyMarine SERVICE ADMINISTRATOR forsaleonline.com $600,000 www.charteryachts- of theworld.Askingprice yourself inthechartercapital tional opportunitytoestablish cosmetically. 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# CASIMIR HOFFMANN CASIMIR MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 55 19-10-2007 15:39:50 is an art Yacht transport Yacht www.sevenstar.nl YACHT TRANSPORT OVER SEVEN SEAS headoffice tel; +31 20 4488590 • uk representative tel; +44 23 80223671 tel; +31 20 4488590 • uk representative headoffice tel; May 10-20 2008 > Southampton Tortola > Palma & La Spezia Tortola IJMUIDEN • SOUTHAMPTON • GIBRALTAR • MALLORCA • FORT LAUDERDALE • CARIBBEAN LAUDERDALE • FORT • MALLORCA • GIBRALTAR SOUTHAMPTON • IJMUIDEN 071015-01B Sevenstar ad CC.indd 1 Published by Compass Publishing Limited, St. Vincent & the Grenadines, and printed by Trinidad Publishing Company Limited