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FEBRUARY 2008 NO. 149 The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore

Antigua’s Superyacht Cup See story on page 13 © KOS/KOSPICTURES.COM FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 2 FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 3 FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 4 The Caribbean’sMonthlyLookatSea&Shore ugervrcus ...... 20 A junglerivercruise Getting Fresh ...... 18 Plastic classicrenewed Labor ofLove ...... 17 …big launching! Small Island… See Writers’Guidelinesatwww.caribbeancompass.com.Sendsubmissions [email protected]. Caribbean Compass Tel: (767)448-2705,[email protected] Dominica MarineCenter,24VictoriaStreet,Roseau, Dominica: [email protected] Tel: (5999)767-9042,Fax:767-9003, Curaçao: [email protected] Tel/Fax: (246)426-0861 Barbados: [email protected] Tel (268)774-6657 Antigua: Compass AgentsbyIsland: [email protected] Accounting...... Debra Davis [email protected] Art, Design&Production...... WilfredDederer [email protected] Advertising &Distribution...... TomHopman [email protected] Assistant Editor...... ElaineOllivierre [email protected] Editor...... Sally Erdle www.caribbeancompass.com [email protected] Tel: (784)457-3409,Fax:457-3410, Bequia, St.VincentandtheGrenadines. Compass PublishingLtd.,P.O.Box175BQ, Caribbean Compass ...... 35 Cruising Crossword ...... 34 Island Poets ...... 34 Sailors’ Horoscope ...... 32 Meridian Passage ...... 26 All Ashore… ...... 20 Destinations ...... 16 Different Boats ...... 14 Regatta News Eco-News...... 10 Business Briefs...... 8 Ad Sales&Distribution-LucyTulloch Distribution -CeesdeJong Distribution -NormanFaria Distribution -HubertJ.Winston welcomes submissionsofshortarticles,newsitems,photosanddrawings. except shortexcerptsforreviewpurposes, maybemadewithoutwrittenpermissionofCompassPublishing Ltd. ©2008 CompassPublishingLtd.All rightsreserved.Noreproduction,copyortransmissionofthispublication, supplied byothercompanies. Compass PublishingLtd.acceptsno liabilityfordelayeddistributionorprintingqualityastheseservices are responsibility foranystatementsmade therein.Lettersandsubmissionsmaybeeditedforlengthclarity. sole responsibilityoftheadvertiser, writerorcorrespondent,andCompassPublishingLtd.acceptsno We supportfreespeech! is publishedmonthlyby FEBRUARY 2008•NUMBER149 www.caribbeancompass.com DEPARTMENTS ISSN 1605-1998 But thecontentofadvertisements,columns,articlesandlettersto editorarethe aaaei,cmuiy...... 32 Camaraderie, community Boat Buddies ...... 30 Why helovesTrinidad ‘Accidental’ Cruiser Visiting Vieques...... 24 Bombs Away! [email protected] Tel: (58-281)265-3844Tel/Fax:265-2448, Venezuela: [email protected] Tel: 868)634-2622Mob:(868)620-0978 Trinidad: Tel: (284)494-2830,Fax:494-1584 Tortola/BVI: Tel: (784)457-3527,[email protected] St. Vincent&theGrenadines: Tel: (340)7747931,[email protected] St. Thomas/USVI: [email protected] Tel/Fax: +590(0)590845310Mob:64945 Ad Sales-StéphaneLegendre Distribution -EricBendahan(599)5533850 St. Maarten/St.Barths/St.Kitts&Nevis: [email protected] Tel: (758)584-1292, St. Lucia: [email protected] Tel: (0596)596686971,Mob:+(0)696932638 Martinique: [email protected] Tel/Fax: +590(0)590845310Mob:64945 detsr’Idx...... 54 Advertisers’ Index Classified Ads...... 54 ...... 52 Caribbean Marketplace ...... 49 What’s OnMyMind ...... 44 Readers’ Forum Cooking withCruisers...... 41 ...... 37 Book Reviews Dolly’s DeepSecrets...... 36 ...... 36 Cruising Kids’Corner ...... 35 Cartoons Ad Sales&Distribution-JackDausend Distribution -WayneBarthelmy Ad Sales&Distribution-PattyTomasik Guadeloupe: Tel: (473)536-7492,[email protected] Ad Sales&Distribution-ValreeceJoseph Grenada/Carriacou/Petite Martinique: Ad Sales&Distribution-IsabellePrado Distribution -GladysJones Distribution -BryanLezama Ad Sales&DistributionStéphaneLegendre Ad Sales-DebraDavis, at Antigua’sSuperyacht Cup2007-“Someofthebestracingever!” Cover: Aboardthe100-foot Swan TBA TBA 27 24 22 21 -24 21 20 18 17 15 -17 13 -17 9 -10 7 3 -6 2 -4 FEBRUARY TBA TBA TBA 31 -Apr6 30 29 -Apr20 28 -30 27 -30 24 23 23 24 -25 22 21 -23 21 21 20 -24 20 -24 20 20 17 15 -16 14 -16 14 10 9 -23 8 7 -10 7 -9 6 -9 6 -9 6 3 1 MARCH Articles & Photos • Advertisers’ Directory •CheckItOut…Tell Directory &Photos•Advertisers’ Articles Your Friends! at thetimethisissueof contact [email protected] e r nteWeb! We’re the on If youwouldlikeanauticalortourismeventlistedFREEinourcalendar, please sendthenameanddate(s)ofevent www.caribbeancompass.com [email protected] Semaine NautiqueSchoelcher,Martinique. Non-Stop AroundMartiniqueRace.CNN Independence Day.PublicholidayinDominicanRepublic Bonaire InternationalFishingTournament.www.infobonaire.com Independence Day.PublicholidayinSt.Lucia.Yachtraces Grenada ClassicYachtRegatta.www.ClassicRegatta.com FULL MOON Lunar EclipsevisiblethroughouttheCaribbean Presidents’ Day.PublicholidayinPuertoRicoandUSVI Sailors’ andLandlubbers’Auction,Bequia.(784)457-3047 www.weyc.net Yacht Regatta,Tortola.WestEndClub(WEYC),[email protected], 30th AnnualSweetheartsoftheCaribbeanand26thClassic www.casadecamporegatta.com Casa deCampoRegatta,DominicanRepublic. www.stcroixyc.com St. CroixInternationalRegatta.YachtClub(SCYC), Independence Day.PublicholidayinGrenada and otherplaces Puerto Rico,Dominica,Carriacou,Trinidad&Tobago,Venezuela, Carnival MondayandTuesdayinmostDutchFrenchislands, [email protected], www.clubnautiqueleneptune.com Martinique CarnivalRegatta.ClubNautiqueLeNeptune(CNN), Antigua MegaYachtChallenge.AYC Antigua LaserOpen.AYC www.antiguayachtclub.com Carlisle BayCruiseWeekend,Antigua.AntiguaYachtClub(AYC), Spiritual BaptistLiberationDay.PublicholidayinTrinidad&Tobago www.rolexcupregatta.com 35th InternationalRolexRegatta,St.Thomas,USVI. St. BarthsBucketRace.www.newportbucket.com/StBarthsIndex.htm Easter Monday.Publicholidayinmanyplaces Nevis toSt.KittsCross-ChannelSwim Easter Sunday Goat andCrabRaces,Mt.PleasantBuccooVillage,Tobago Emancipation Day.PublicholidayinPuertoRico Grenada Round-the-IslandEasterRace.www.aroundgrenada.com Good Friday.Publicholidayinmanyplaces FULL MOON Easterval, UnionIsland,[email protected] Bequia EasterRegatta.www.begos.com/easterregatta International EarthDay.Beachanddiveclean-upsinmanyplaces Holy Thursday.PublicholidayinUSVI festival inSt.Patrick’s,Grenada St. Patrick’sDay.PublicholidayinMontserrat; Le TrophéeGardelRace,Guadeloupe.www.Trophee-gardel.com Dinghy Regatta,PuertoRico.www.culebrainternationalregatta.com Culebra HeinekenInternationalRegattaand National HeroesDay.PublicholidayinSt.Vincent&theGrenadines Commonwealth Day.Publicholidayinsomeplaces 6th AnnualSt.JohnBluesFestival.www.stjohnbluesfestival.com International Women’sDay 11th AnnualDarkandStormyRegatta,BVI.WEYC Blues &RhythmsFestival,St.Vincent.www.svgtourism.com 13th AnnualTobagoGameFishingTournament.www.tgft.com 28th St.MaartenHeinekenRegatta.www.heinekenregatta.com www.heinekenregatta.com Budget MarineCommodore’sCup,St.Maarten. H. LavittyStoute’sBirthday(celebrated).PublicholidayinBVI Wahoo Tournament,BVI Spanish TownFishermen’sJamboreeand12thAnnual BVI SpringRegatta&SailingFestival.www.bvispringregatta.org Transcaraibes Rally,GuadeloupetoCuba.www.transcaraibes.com All informationwascorrecttothebestofourknowledge contact eventorganizersdirectlyforconfirmation. CALENDAR Compass Virago went topress—butplanschange,soplease FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 5 , by Natural Selection —Continued on next page Chile was manager of Capture Photo Natural Selection. Eight Bells December 16, 2007, the cruising community of Buddy Stockwell reports: On life aboard their Valiant 42, The Ridleys began their cruising for environmental organiza- Most important, Chile was an indispensable volunteer the attraction. I like the fact that more people have walked on the moon than the attraction. I like the fact sea alone.” tackled the Atlantic by air and to and trusted friend. Edward Alton Ridley, known Bonaire lost a wonderful, talented life at the age of 58. Chile was born in Valentine, Texas, all as “Chile”, took his own of depression all of his life. He is survived by his wife, and had battled the disease Linda Ridley of Marfa, Texas. and sailing to St. Petersburg, Florida, where their boat departing Galveston in 1998 there. Then, they cruised down the Eastern was part of the 1998 boat show Bonaire five years later on Valentine’s Day of 2003. As Caribbean chain, arriving in and Linda fell in love with Bonaire and remained there avid scuba divers, both Chile as residents living aboard and also worked as a dive master. Conservation Project. Chile tions such as REEF, STINAPA and the Bonaire Sea Turtle of amazing underwater completed 300 Level 5 surveys for REEF, collected hundreds “True Grit” Texas spirit, images on film, and completed almost 2,000 dives. Chile’s him an unflagging cham- fine character, and exceptional skills combined to make pion of the environment like no other. Singlehander Tristan Gooley with St. Lucian Member of Parliament Robert Lewis Singlehander Tristan Gooley after 26 days at sea alone. In May after 26 days at sea alone. Golden Eye & Updates

The only other person to have achieved both is the legendary American naviga- The only other person to have achieved both is the legendary cancer. He says, “Men Tristan is using his achievements to raise awareness of prostate has been a large part of “It has been a difficult and unusual challenge but that Singlehander Scores a First New Year by becoming the first European to have A British sailor celebrated the Marigot Bay, St. Lucia, on the afternoon of the 1st of Tristan Gooley, 34, arrived at New Fees for St. Maarten by St. Maarten’s Island Council went into effect as New bridge fees as amended called bridge fees, for cruise ships (mega- The new departure fees, commonly due for passenger ships or yachts per one-week stay The new harbor fees that are [2600 words. PHOTOS in “Photos for Feb” folder for: Feb” folder for “Photos in PHOTOS words. [2600 tor, Steve Fossett, who is still missing after a flight in Nevada in September 2007. tor, Steve Fossett, who is still missing after a flight in Nevada efforts lead to one more per- are notoriously bad at discussing their health issues. If my it will have been worthwhile. son learning a little about the disease of prostate cancer, 2007 he flew from Goose Bay, Canada to Oxford, England in a single-engine 2007 he flew from Goose Bay, Canada to Oxford, England Scotland during the epic Cessna Caravan, re-fueling in Greenland, Iceland and two-day flight. both flown and sailed single-handed across the Atlantic. both flown solo and sailed called January in a 32-foot yacht

of January 1st. The hike in fees is intended to provide Simpson Bay Lagoon Authority of January 1st. The hike in fees revenue to make necessary investments in, for Corporation (SLAC) with increased Bridge. example, the Simpson Bay or part thereof range from 18 Netherlands Antilles florins yachts) per one-week stay of nine meters or more but fewer than 14 meters, to (NAf.) for vessels with a length of 36 meters or more. US$1.00=NAf 1.79. NAf. 153 for vessels with a length NAf. 36 for vessels with a length of 8 meters or more or part thereof will range from NAf. 324 for vessels with a length of 38 meters or more but fewer than 13 meters, to but fewer than 43 meters. Info JANUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 6 and discussanyissuesrelatedtolifeatsea:maritimesafety,tourism,incidents,etcetera. www.onsa.org.ve/comunidad/forum/viewforum.php?f=16. Thereyoucancommenton Speaking SectionforCaribbeanCruisersandEnglish-speakingusers: www.onsa.org.ve/comunidad/forum/ announced anewwebplatformforitsDiscussionForums,at www.safetyandsecuritynet.com. Investigations areongoing. ously injured.ReportsweremadetolocalauthoritiesandtheFrenchConsulate. by fivemencarryingfirearmsatRobledal,IslaMargarita.Oneofthecrewwasseri- the Frenchcatamaran Investigations areongoing. stationed intheareaandtherewillbeincreasedwaterpatrolsbycoastguard. Chateaubelair, athree-memberCriminalInvestigationDepartmentunitwillalsobe that althoughplanswerealreadyinplacetoinstallaRapidResponseUnit lasses and,insomecases,guns.PoliceCommissionerKeithMillertold there wereknowntohavebeenrobbedbymaskedmenarmedwithknives,cut- cers inthearea.BetweenDecember10thand26th,2007,fiveyachtsanchored coast hascausedtheauthoritiestoincreasenumberoflawenforcementoffi- Vincent, aspateofyachtrobberiesinChateaubelaironthatisland’snorthleeward those areashavestopped. avoid certainanchoragesuntilithasbeenconfirmedthatcrimesagainstyachtsin BT23 4AB,UK. Account, c/oCharlesStewart,StewartsSolicitors,3RegentStreet,Newtownards, family discoveredtherewerenofacilitiesintheareaforconductingtransplants. a Barbadoshospitalafterbeingtransferredtherefromhisyachtbycruiseship, Barbados inhismemory. 2007 AtlanticRallyforCruisers,issettingupacharityorgan-transplantnetworkin injuries receivedinafallaboardhisyachtwhilesailingtotheCaribbeanduring support theSeaTurtleConservationProjectbyvisitinghttps://www.supportbonaire.org. beautiful seacreaturesofBonairethathelovedsowellandfoughthardtoprotect. always thefirsttovolunteer.Hewillbemissedbyallwhoknewhim,including frompreviouspage —Continued For [email protected]. The moderatorinvitescruiserstoregisterandparticipateonthewebsite’sEnglish Speaking ofONSA,theVenezuelanmaritimesafetyorganizationhasrecently On-Line MaritimeDiscussionForum For updatedinformationonyacht-crimereportsintheCaribbeanvisit According totheVenezuelanmaritimesafetyorganizationONSA,onJanuary15th According totheJanuary11,2008,editionof While themajorityofharborsremaintrouble-free,cruisersarebeingwarnedto Hotspots Donations canbemadebychequepayabletoJ.D.ThompsonDonation Thompson carriedacardasdonorforallhismajororgans,butwhenhediedin The familyofIrishyachtsmanJohnThompson,whodiedastheresulthead Yachtsman’s FamilyEstablishesCharityTrust The familyasksthatinlieuofcardsorflowers,donationsshouldbemadehisnameto Chile wasnotjustagentlemanbutgentleman,alwayswillingtolendhandand Ti Ve , withfourpeopleaboard,wasboardedandrobbed The Searchlight newspaper ofSt. Searchlight they wereatImmigration.Iarrivedpromptly10:00 details ofayacht-clearanceformbeencheckedmorepreciselyortimesas to comebackat3:00 in themorning,itwasnotpossibletocheckandoutatsametime.Itold hand toavoidfillinginthecopiesasecondtime.AlthoughIplannedleaveearly Immigration thenextdayat10:00 to theboatforeachcrewmemberfillinandinstructedproceed about whyIhadeight“crew”andno“passengers”,wasgivenformstotakeback job: punctual,veryfriendlyandextraordinarilycompetent.) guide inDominicawehadMartinCarriere,aliasProvidence.Hedidreallyagreat minutes. Note:Clearancefromlastportofcallisabsolutelyrequired.(Foratour (Christmas Day),IpaidanovertimefeeofUS$40.Theentireproceduretookten was uncomplicated,withastayofpossiblytwoweeks.Asitholiday (contrary tothetourismboard’swebsite).Checkinginandoutatsametime form wasfaxedtoPoint-à-Pitreandansweredwithinhalfanhour.Nocharges. checked inandoutatthesametime,boundtoAntiguaviaDeshaies;againfilled to DominicaviaMarieGalante.AtIlesdesSaintes,onthebacksideofMairie,I Point-à-Pitre foranominalfee;withinhalfanhourthefaxwasreturned.Icheckedout Corail Caraib. between December12th,2007andJanuary5th,2008,aboardaLagoon38from at 11:50 waste thebetterpartofadayonclearanceprocedures. I arrivedatCustomsinEnglishHarbour,Antigua,3:00 IfoundthatnovisawasrequiredforAustriancitizens At Portsmouth,Dominica, In Guadeloupe,theCapitainerieatMarinaBasduFortfaxedmyclearanceformto CLEARANCE Herbert Hirschreports:Thefollowingobservationsweremadeduringacruise Leewards Updates AM . Note:TheImmigrationformhassixcopies,soyoumustwritewithahard PM for thecheckout,whichtookuntil4:00 AM . Neverbeforeinmyexperiencehaveallthe —Continued onnextpage —Continued AM and theprocedureended PM . Afterbeingquestioned

PM good lookout best tohavea fishing gear;it’s spread withalotof Guadeloupe are The watersaround DOYLE CHRIS . Itwasapityto FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 7 PM PM PM PM AM , we got carried away and extended Compass was taken in Las Palmas, Canary Islands, before was taken in Las Palmas, Canary we welcome aboard new advertiser Port Louis Marina of we welcome aboard new advertiser Port Louis Marina Compass Compass contributor Sandi Pomeroy, please contact Sally Total Lunar Eclipse this Month Eclipse Lunar Total of the a Total Eclipse be treated to will All of the Caribbean Kuich reports: Jeannie a eyes, maybe need is your all you really the view but will enhance Binoculars Eclipse times are: Moon with Earth’s umbra:First contact of 9:43 Total eclipse begins:Middle of eclipse:Total eclipse ends: Moon with Earth’s umbra:Last contact of eruptions created by dust from volcanic effects (such as those Unless atmospheric 1:09 we may see in the Caribbean this year, so enjoy This is the only total lunar eclipse 11:01 CCEF Wants Your Stuff! raise your boat’s waterline? Too much stuff in Are you thinking that you should 11:26 11:52 [email protected]. For more information contact Errata WHERE’S THAT AGAIN? noticed that the photo of docked ARC yachts on Perceptive readers will have LET’S SEE, 30 DAYS HATH... for the Meridian Perceptive readers will also have noticed that in the tables Where’s Sandi? Compass Welcome Aboard! In this issue of Moon on the evening of February 20th. The Moon will be high and accompanying it and accompanying will be high 20th. The Moon of February the evening Moon on the only event will be This double in Leo. and the star Regulus pearly Saturn will be next . within the its kind occurring one of a big hand (don’t you wish!) and thing beside you to hold your sweet young Moon are stupendous eclipses of the Moon cookie. In any case, chocolate chip you. by having someone with always enhanced at Montserrat) influence the Moon’s disk, it should appear fairly bright, especially at Montserrat) influence the and end of totality. The lower part of the Moon will likely right around the beginning or coppery hue, whereas the upper half should look appear brightest with a ruddy more gray or chocolate color. this glorious event! about this: any spare parts you don’t need, any your lockers or on deck? Think goods — leave them at the Carriacou Yacht clean used clothing, any household auction in August, which benefits the Carriacou Club for the annual charity AND, think about this: come join us for the fun and Children’s Education Fund. the fundraising! page 22 of last month’s the start of ARC 2006, not in Rodney Bay, St. Lucia, after its finish — same fleet, dif- the start of ARC 2006, not in Rodney Bay, St. Lucia, after ferent place! Passage of the Moon in last month’s leap year by giving February 31 days. Woops! Grenada, page 12; and all the new faces in our Caribbean Marketplace ads on Grenada, page 12; and all the new faces in our Caribbean pages 52 and 53. Good to have you with us! at [email protected]. www.curacaomarine.com and , and the AM PM - Long-term storage. and many other services. AWLGRIP® indoor spray painting We are located in the safe harbor of Willemstad. Safe dry storage with 24 hours security under the Almond Tree, goes AM

under the Almond Tree in Port Elizabeth. Preceding the PM

Hauling capacity 45 tons and Catamarans up to 33ft beam. . Cruisers brought items they wanted to sell and put a price on . Cruisers brought items they Fredag Curaçao Marine Curaçao weekdays. New marine center presents the latest Dutch innovation in boat handling equipment. PM In subsequent years, more and more items have been donated that have nothing In subsequent years, more and keep the good cause in mind and bid as high as your Come and join the fun, but 17th, look around your boat Even if you are not going to be in Bequia on February It all begun in 1990 when Norwegian sailors Mariann and Peter decided to “give It all begun in 1990 when Norwegian The jumble sale that used to coincide with the Auction will be held separately this year, The jumble sale that used to coincide with the Auction will For information on the Fun Walk contact Lisa at (784) 458-3761 or 431-6332 For information on the Fun Walk contact Lisa at (784) 458-3761 Mariann “Why Knot?” For information on the Auction and Jumble Sale contact For information about the Sunshine School visit www.bequiasunshineschool.org. Email: [email protected] Phone: +(599 9) 465 8936 Fax: 465 8941 Sailors’ and Landlubbers’ Auction, Bequia Sailors’ and Landlubbers’ Auction, Landlubbers’ Auction to benefit the Sunshine School Bequia’s annual Sailors’ and FISHING GEAR FISHING a lot are spread with islands the surrounding and around Guadeloupe The coasts RIVIERE SALEE buoys is entrance, one of the green to south: after the river’s Passing from north the second is L’Alliance, one is missing, buoys at the Bridge Of the three mooring to do with the sea. Recently, in between the , winches and deck prisms, to do with the sea. Recently, local artists, wall hangings, lawn furniture and more, appear paintings by well-known to join in. Refreshments are also on sale. and landlubbers are happy the result was EC$22,937 — let’s make it bigger this year! purse can manage! In 2007 and pass it on. Drop off or home at all that stuff which is just too good to toss, between 9:00 donated items before February 16th at the Sunshine School them. Any amount over this price went to the Sunshine School. Mariann says, “It them. Any amount over this just gave things and did not want to receive any struck me how many people to really make money for the school!” money at all. Here was a chance back” to their favourite island, and held a Marine Gear Auction aboard their double- back” to their favourite island, ended ketch Auction starts at 2:00. on Sunday, March 2nd, at 1:00 3:00 VHF 08; phone (784) 457-3047, cell 432-3232; skype: whyknotbequia. around the Mount Pleasant loop and returns to the starting point. Back under the around the Mount Pleasant loop and returns to the starting and baked goods, Almond Tree, cool down and partake in the sale of refreshments the Annual Jumble Sale. books, students’ crafts, Sunshine School merchandise AND jumble sale will be a Fun Walk sponsored by The Gym at Aqua, also to raise funds for the jumble sale will be a Fun Walk sponsored by The Gym at Aqua, will receive gym mem- Sunshine School. Registration is EC$20 per person; top fund-raisers berships of a week or more! The walk starts at 10:00 for Children with Special Needs will be held on Sunday, February 17th, at L’Auberge for Children with Special Needs of Admiralty Bay. A preview begins at 1:00 des Grenadines on the shore of fishing lines and buoys — found singly and in pairs — up to six miles offshore. They six miles offshore. pairs — up to singly and in — found lines and buoys of fishing Some in bad weather. at night or so are invisible lights or poles, marked with are not be found around hazards can Many of these cricket balls. as small as buoys are To be on the Guadeloupe’s west coast. and outside Deshaies on Marie Galante area. throughout the whole cruising to have a good lookout safe side, it’s best (hazardous in the night). other is adrift on Ilet Colas missing and the used, was the third one, which we from the mangroves, and only three metres missing in order: red okay, red buoys after the bridge were, okay. The further red okay, buoy the size of a basketball), was an unlit yellow plastic (instead, there green okay! Of de La Gabarre, red okay, unlit, green okay. At Pont red unlit, green in Doyle’s Guide, we found only one okay; the second the four mooring buoys listed two were visible but adrift in the mangroves. was half sunk, and the further —Continued page from previous FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 8 bring thousandsofgoodjobstoGrenadians.” fit themanyvisitorswhowillcomeherebutalso Government knowsthatthisprojectwillnotjustbene- backing oftheGovernmentandpeopleGrenada. joint venturewithCamper&Nicholsonshavethefull Grenada. “ThePortLouisDevelopmentandthenew ing thattheprojectwouldbringgreatbenefitsto Bill Green.MinisterofTourismCurwentoldthegather- Savary; andTechnicalDirectorofCamperNicholsons, Works, theHon.BrendaHood;Developer,PeterDe Tourism theHon.ClarisModesteCurwen;Ministerof Governor GeneralSirDanielWilliams;Ministerof in theworld. Louis marinaintooneofthebestandmostexclusive invest US$24milliontomarketanddevelopthePort partnership, Camper&Nicholsonshavepledgedto oper intheworld,Camper&Nicholsons.Innew the deSavaryGroupandlargestmarinadevel- news ofamajorjointventurearrangementbetween boats, wasofficiallyopenedonJanuary4th. accepting someoftheworld’slargestyachtsand in Grenada.ThePortLouisMarina,whichisalready operational fortheChristmasandNewYearholidays the PortLouisMarinaandCreoleVillageopen BUSINESS De Savarydescribedthejointventureasahuge The openingwasattendedbyHisExcellency The OpeningCeremonycamejustdaysafterthe Developer PeterdeSavaryandhisteamdelivered Grenada: ANewMarinafortheYear BRIEFS adedicatedprivate managementservice Horizon Yacht Management . Horizon Yacht Management St. Martin Grenada Antigua BVI It’s official!TheopeningceremonyforGrenada’snewestmarinawasheldonJanuary4th 599 544 3329 473 4391000 268 5624725 284 4948787 Four managementservice onegreat locations, great [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] between 5:00and6:00 for breakfast,lunchanddinner,withahappyhour the swimmingpool,willbeopensevendaysaweek lounge andbar,locatedalongsidethebeach at LePhareBleuinGrenada.Thenewrestaurant, be abletoenjoytheflavoursofItalyat“Benedetto’s” na’s firstguestsandthegeneralpublic. free shopsarealsoopenreadytowelcomethemari- 300 vessels.TheVictoryBarandvillagewithitsduty- 2007. Ultimatelythemarinawillhaveberthsforupto the firstyachtstoberthatPortLouis,inDecember mega-motoryacht largest privatesailingyachtat289feet,andthe essary infrastructure.The 14 superyachts—allwithfullpower,waterandnec- open withacapacityofupto50vessels—including on themarina.” commercial aspectwhileCamper&Nicholsonsfocus on thedevelopmentofresidential,hoteland completed evenfaster,aswewillnowconcentrate venture willmeanthatthemarinaprojectnowbe machine behindthisproject.Inaddition,thenew Nicholsons willalsoputtheirworld-classmarketing will nowbemarketednotonlybyus,butCamper& benefit forGrenada.“PortLouisMarinaandGrenada lighthouse ship.WiththeopeningofBenedetto’s,Le popular fine-diningrestaurantonboardthehistoric Bleu Marinawillnodoubtbeawareofthealready rience atthenewvenue.ThosefamiliarwithLePhare and willbeoverseeinganItalian,casualdiningexpe- years’ experience,hasjoinedLePhareBleuteam, live musiceventsandparties. From nextmonth,sailorsandlandlubbersalikewill For moreinformationseeadonpage12. Both themarinawalland100-metretrestledockare Benedetto LaFiura,anItalianchefwithover30 ‘Benedetto’s’ toOpenatLePhareBleu Reverie PM Maltese Falcon . Therewillalsoberegular , at230feet,wereamongst , theworld’s Technical Installations Secure Moorings&Dockage Full ServiceMarinas www.horizonyachtmanagement.com www.horizon-yacht-sales.com by SimonBradleyofErrolFlynnMarinaandShipyard. York. IncludedinthefleetisaJamaicanentry,skippered nationally-sponsored 68-footyachtswillheadforNew several daysR&RafteralonglegfromPanama. Race willonceagainbestoppingatPortAntoniofor competitors inthe2007-2008ClipperRoundWorld equipped yachtingfacility,ithasbeenannouncedthe arguably theCaribbean’smostbeautifulandwell- afterthought. Nowaftertheirfirstexperienceatwhatis rental andDeBigBamboowatersportsboutique. up andrunninginMarchwillbethelaundryservice,car dock andaCustomsofficeonsitefromearlyMarch.Also tion ofitsfull-servicemarina,withtheavailabilityafuel Petit CalivignyBay. atmosphere, surroundedbythetranquillityofbeautiful ing toenjoysnacksandlightmealsinalaid-back Phare Bleuwillbereadytowelcomecustomerslook- BAVARIA YACHTS Italian diningspotashore lightship, LePhareBleuMarinawillsoonofferan In additiontotherestaurantaboarditssignature After leavingPortAntonioinlateMay,theteninter- They firstcametoPortAntonio,Jamaicain2006asan Clipper Round-the-WorldRacetoVisitPortAntonio For moreinformationseeadonpage18. Le PhareBleuisalsopleasedtoannouncethecomple- Authorized dealers Š New andUsedYacht Brokerage Š Professional Delivery Š RoutineMaintenance —Continued onnextpage —Continued FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 9 For more information see ad on page 47. For more information — Boat-Swapping for Boatowners ‘See My Sea’ cruise are retired and free to Not all boatowners like new venture, operating much SeeMySea is a or e- For more information visit www.seemysea.com should be able to get your marine items — including items marine get your able to be should boat repairs, services, goods, mechanical electronic engine and parts Yanmar Marine engines, Mercury The in one stop. services — all sailmaker and Doyle servic- expanded its has also Marine Center Dominica become an which has sport fishing, es to include attraction on the island. increasingly popular port. Up until want, far from their home wherever they has a boat in those distant places now, chartering have to realistic option for those who been the only close to home. keep their boat house-swapping the very successful and popular it possible for boat- agencies. Their goal is to make destinations as well as owners to discover new sailing knowledge and experi- share with others their local and free ence in an atmosphere of open-minded (the cost is around US$100 exchange. Once joined up are free!), boat- per year, but the first 300 applicants all the boat-exchange owners will have access to of the site, for the next offers and the various services members will qualify you 12 months. Introducing new annual subscription. for a discount on your next mail [email protected]. Left: Dominica Marine Center is branching out to the Left: Dominica Marine Center northern town of Portsmouth Picture yourself Below: Interested in boat-swapping? Lakes, Med… here, or in the Baltic, Great Also, in response to increased demand, the demand, response to increased Also, in DMC will order duty-free and VAT-free items for visiting items and VAT-free duty-free will order DMC international through their and other vessels yachts duty- looking for full is but the management partners, to be available visiting vessels status for and VAT-free in Dominica. their store throughout a second Center is expanding with Dominica Marine northern marine services in the island’s store and other March, you Before the end of port city of Portsmouth. #ARAIBE'REEMENT PAGPDF St. Vincent and St. Lucia Duty- and VAT-Free Chandlery for Dominica? The Dominica Marine Center (DMC) is working with As of Sunday February 10th, Grenadine Airways will Cost will be US$150 one way plus US$25 fuel sur- For more information contact Grenadines Airways: New Grenadines Airways Service between For more details of the race visit www.clipper- The yacht is appropriately emblazoned with the emblazoned is appropriately The yacht a real taste of looking for crews are If the visiting the Government of Dominica to implement a duty- free and VAT-free chandlery on the island. Currently, be operating a Sunday service between St. Vincent & the Grenadines and St. Lucia (Hewanorra). The serv- ice is designed to connect with the international flights (Virgin Atlantic, British Airways, Air Canada, West Jet, US Airways, Air Jamaica, Delta and American) arriving and departing from Hewanorra, St. Lucia. If demand is good, then additional days may be added. charge and US$15 per person tax. tel (246) 418-1654/5, e-mail info@grenadine- airway.com. followed by grilled bangers and sautéed potatoes. That should really set them up for the next leg! roundtheworld.com. For more information on the marina see ad on page 39. —Continued page from previous Go, You Know.” “Once You tourism slogan: Jamaica then they need make landfall, when they Jamaica the Errol Flynn “Norma’s” at further than look no red pea they can sample Norma’s Marina. There garlic her oven front whole-wheat soup, along with and perhaps with her secret spread, bread garnished FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 10 shallow water(20metres).Sincethegorgoniansof metres), andtheotherwasfoundtobecommonin of thelikelynewspecieswasfoundindeepwater(70 species ofcrustaceansinjusttendaysdiving.One species ofsoftcoralsandnearlyahundreddifferent Universidad delosAndesinColombiacollected40 Texas A&MUniversityatCorpusChristi,andthe Atmospheric Science’sBiologyandFisheriesDivision, University ofMiamiRosenstielSchoolMarineand Antilles, thelargestatollinCaribbean. an October2007expeditiontoSabaBank,Netherlands the WorldConservationUnion. temperatures drivenbyclimatechange,accordingto impact, whetherdirectlyorasaconsequenceofrising destroyed andhalfarethreatenedbecauseofhuman protect coral. Areas helprestorefishpopulations,theydonothingto study alsoconcludedthatwhileMarineProtected decline, buthurricanesarenot,saidthestudy.The which isindirectlylinkedtocoralloss. land drivesanincreaseinmacroalgae(seaweed), coral mortality.Chemicaldischargesfromagricultural fish stocks,bothofwhicharedirectlyresponsiblefor ty incoastalareasproducesmoresewageanddepletes impacts, thestudyrevealed.Higherpopulationdensi- different kindsofhumanactivityresultedin people isthemaindriverofmortalitycorals.But and coraldisease. were dataonhurricanes,biodiversity,fishpopulations development andagriculturallanduse.Alsoincluded against patternsofhumanpopulationdensity,coastal study matchedenvironmentalandecologicaldata 322 sitesacross13countriesintheCaribbean, referenced. Focusingoncorals,fishesandseaweedin bases thathadneverbeforebeensystematicallycross- Robert Ginsburgcomparedseverallarge-scaledata- tified andrapidlycontrolled,”hesaid. reefs maybesoonbeyondrepairifthreatsarenotiden- Halifax, Canada.“Thecontinuingdegradationofcoral says leadauthorCamiloMoraofDalhousieUniversityin tourism andfishingthatarevitalforthelocaleconomy, of reefsisendangeringspecieswildlifeaswell global warming. than warmingseawatersandacidificationlinkedto the continuingdegradationofcoralreefs,evenmoreso development andagriculture,asthemainculpritin has singledouthumanactivity,especiallycoastal have mettheenemyandheisus.” CARIBBEAN ECO-NEWS A teamthatincludedresearchersfromthe Two newspeciesofsoftcoralswerediscoveredduring … WhileNewCoralsareDiscovered A fifthoftheworld’smarinereefshavealreadybeen Warmer seasurfacesarealsocontributingtocoral The statisticsshowedclearlythatthenumberof Mora andUniversityofMiamimarinebiologist The studyfocusesontheCaribbean,wheredecline A studypublishedlastmonthinthejournal As thecartooncharacterPogofamouslysaid,“We Coral ConcernsMount… Nature to thegenus pected. Thescientistshaveconcludedthatitbelongs species intheshallowestpartsofBankwasunex- a limitednumberofspecies,thediscoverynew Caribbean areawell-knowngroupofcoralswithonly and TT$500,000(US$80,000).The2008laureateswill species intheCaribbeanareconsideredendangered. where fourspeciesofmarineturtlesnest.Allseaturtle ecosystem inthenorthwestcoastalregionofGuyana, been instrumentalinprotectingShellBeach,a100-mile Guyana MarineTurtleConservationSociety.Shehas founding secretaryandprojectcoordinatorofthe ment. AmongthemisAnnetteArjoonofGuyana,the from theartstoscience,technologyandenviron- Excellence (ANSCAFE)fortheirworkinfieldsranging winners oftheAnthonyN.SabgaCaribbeanAwardsfor throughout theCaribbean.” many solarpoweredboatsnotjustinSt.Luciabut December 2007issueof achievements. TheBlueList,publishedinthe Islands has beenawardedtheBlueAwardfromUS-based Exclusive EconomicZoneoftheNetherlandsAntilles. rial watersofSaba,butarestilllocatedwithinthe over thepartsofBankthatlieoutsideterrito- Sea Area(PSSA),whichwillhelptoregulateshipping the SabaBankdesignatedasaParticularlySensitive Bank andlegislationtosupportit.Thegoalishave Antilles todevelopasoundmanagementplanforthe Department oftheEnvironmentNetherlands species areknown. We hopethatthe power technologyisbecomingrapidlymoreefficient. Caribbean hasinabundanceissolarpowerand dotted aroundMarigotBay—allwithzeroemissions. guests ofthemarinaresorttobarsandrestaurants The ferrywaslaunchedinJuly2007totransport ferry, the and culturallysoundforfuturegenerations.” azine, “ensurethatislandsremainenvironmentally ers inresponsibletourismwho,accordingtothemag- ANSCAFE laureatesreceiveagoldmedal,citation Four Caribbeannationalshavebeennamed2008 Turtle ConservationistHonored Discovery atMarigotBayonSt.Lucia’swestcoast Blue AwardforSt.Lucia’sSolarFerry The expeditionispartofanongoingeffortbythe Resort ownerJudithVeritysaid,“Oneresourcethe Discovery’s locallydesignedandbuiltsolar-powered magazine inrecognitionforenvironmental Sunshine Express Pterogorgia Sunshine Express Islands , inwhichsofaronlythree , wasnumber63onthelist. , recognizes100lead- will bethefirstof (Heineken St.Maarten) Foundation), andJohnLeoneMandyRenkens Tackling (HeinekenRegatta),MarisaBrandy(Nature Left toright:KimvanLoo(ShipwreckShops),Heather development ofStatiaNationalMarinePark. Parks oftheDutchCaribbeanwithafocuson National MarinePark,whodiscussedthe Executive DirectorandformerManagerofBonaire Marine Park.TheguestspeakerwasKallideMeyer, community andvisitorsaboutvariousaspectsofthe restaurants duringearlyDecembertoinformthelocal larger fish,morepelagicsandalsotherarerspecies.” staff isnowmuchquicker…fishlifehasflourishedwith ing thecoralandfindingdivesites,trainingnew the diveindustry,“Buoyswereagreathelpinbothsav- Dive Statiawhoexplainedsomeofthedirectbenefitsfor through establishmentofaconservationtrustfund. their worktoprovidelong-termfinancialsecurity tant workoftheDutchCaribbeanNatureAlliancefor Park overthepasttenyears,acknowledgingimpor- the world,anddescribeddevelopmentofMarine into thediversehabitatsthatattractdiversfromaround been designatedaNationalPark. announced thattheSt.EustatiusMarineParkhad of EnvironmentandNaturetheNetherlandsAntilles of thiseventwaswhenPaulHoetjestheDepartment ing oftheNationalParkVisitorCentre.Thehighlight anniversary inDecember2007,withtheofficialopen- [email protected]. foundationsxm.org orRéserveNaturelleatreservena- Maarten contacttheNatureFoundationatinfo@nature- Foundation officesandHeinekenSt.Maarten. bracelets arestillavailablefromtheNature Heineken Regattawillbeonsalesoon,andthe2007 during theSt.MaartenHeinekenRegatta2007. through thesaleofwhite“seriouscleanfun”bracelets Dutch sidesoftheisland.Thefundswereraised conservation programmesonboththeFrenchand from HeinekenSt.Maartenrecently,toputtowards Martin RéserveNaturelleeachreceivedadonation April 12th. be giventheirprizesinagalaceremonyTrinidadon Relaxed eveningseminarswereheldatdifferent The divecentreswererepresentedbyRindaHeesfrom The ParkManager,NicoleEsteban,gaveaninsight The St.EustatiusMarineParkcelebrateditstenth Statia’s NationalMarinePark For moreinformationonconservationprojectsSt. The newbraceletsforthe2008St.Maarten The NatureFoundationofSintMaartenandtheSt. Heineken RegattaSupportsNatureGroups —Continued onnextpage —Continued FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 11 UK Agents UK Agents for Specialist water to water service to water Specialist water www.yachtshipping.com Tel: +44 (0)23 8022 3671 Fax: +44 (0)23 8033 0880/1 E-mail: [email protected] SEVENSTAR YACHT TRANSPORT TRANSPORT B.V. YACHT SEVENSTAR YACHT SHIPPING LTD YACHT Regular sailings to and from the Mediterranean, USA and Caribbean Regular sailings to and from the Mediterranean, notes Joining forces with Joining forces The group includ- the Paget Farm the Paget Government Primary and School students group teachers, the this ensured that was only an initial attempt to clean up the area. The terrain was very difficult to tackle, consisting of numerous little rocky bays where fishing boats are pulled ashore and garbage accumula- tion is dense. ed approximately 35 children and ten The New York Times Other seminars included a very well attended presentation about the conservation about attended presentation a very well included Other seminars Bequia Clean Still Keeping friends in the 1st, 2007, a group of reports: On December Alexandra Paolino that elsewhere in the Dean writes: “[Cuba now] has an abundance of landscapes from Cuba and else- Conservationists, environmental lawyers and other experts, your hot spots of biodiver- Cuba has done “what we should have done — identify for numerous marine Cuba’s relatively large underwater coastal shelves are crucial “in dramatic contrast” to its In a report last year, the World Wildlife Fund said that The school children were enthusiastic about keeping their country clean. The The school children were to Bequia Venture, the The group is grateful for support and donations. Many thanks Whither Cuba’s Marine Environment? A December 25th, 2007, article by Cornelia Dean in —Continued page from previous and Arturo Herrera, Coordinator, Programme by Sea Turtle around Statia of turtles economy and the in terms of nature Marine Park of the of the benefits an overview Esteban. by Nicole time along the clean-up efforts, this pursued their monthly Bequia community Paget Farm waterfront. otherwise destroyed in the region have been ripped up, paved over, poisoned or has been most intense. decades since the Cuban revolution, when development of investors from the United Once the embargo ends, the island could face a flood States and elsewhere, eager to exploit those landscapes.” island’s resources and how where, met recently in Cancún, Mexico, to discuss the to continue to protect them. of environmental law at sity and set them aside,” said Oliver Houck, a professor conference. Tulane University Law School (US) who attended the as global warming raises species. Like corals elsewhere, those in Cuba are suffering largely escaped damage from ocean temperatures and acidity levels. But they have Diving in them “is like going pollution, boat traffic and destructive fishing practices. organizer. back in time 50 years,” said David Guggenheim, a conference beds and other habitats island neighbors, Cuba’s beaches, mangroves, reefs, seagrass report said, was “the prospect were relatively well preserved. Their biggest threat, the US embargo lifts.” of sudden and massive growth in mass tourism when the that “through accidents of geography and history”, Cuba retains one of the most that “through accidents of geography and history”, Cuba what will become of it after undamaged natural environments in the Caribbean. But widely anticipated, the United Fidel Castro and his associates leave power and, as is States government relaxes or ends its trade embargo? main aim of the Paget Farm waterfront clean-up effort is to raise community aware- main aim of the Paget Farm our natural environment clean, not only to beau- ness of the importance of keeping hazards. tify our surroundings but also to minimize environmental Construction Company. Bequia Tourism Association, Karib Cable, and Hutchinson adults. They filled 55 black garbage bags, mainly with plastic — engine-oil bottles, adults. They filled 55 black cups and forks — plus aluminum packets and beverage bottles, bags, wrappers, and some rubber items. cans, old clothes and shoes, FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 12 navigation ofBarbadosonFebruary10th. information phone(246)436-8888. Barbados, andidentifiedwithAndrew’sname.Formore Society, Henry’sLane,CollymoreRock,St.Michael, should bewrittendirectlyto:TheBarbadosCancer for thepeopleofBarbados. Bd$150,000 inordertomakethiscancerprogrameffective cancer. Andrew’sgoalistoraiseaminimumof paign theyachts blade wereremovedin2005. chemotherapy, Andrew’sentireleftarmandshoulder operation andextendedperiodsofradiationtreatment Andrew wasdiagnosedwithcancerin2003.Afteraninitial Barbados is21mileslongand14wide. one-handed aroundhishomeislandofBarbados. need forsupportcancerpatientsbysailingsoloAND Andrew Burkeaimstodrawattentionthismonththe patients the earlydetectionandpost-diagnosticneedsofcancer Education OfficerandaWelfareOfficer.Theywilladdress straight fromhisheart. this isongoing.Sohislatestsailingchallengecomes growth inhisamazinglycourageousheart.Treatmentof Compass Racer Burkeis‘BringingItAllBackHome’”, Mount Gay-BoatyardRegattainBarbados.[ Heineken Regatta,AngosturaTobagoRaceWeekandthe competitive regionalregattassuchastheSt.Maarten Andrew planstomakehissolo,single-handedcircum- All sponsorswillberecognizedappropriately.Donations Despite havingonlyonearm,Andrewcontinuedtocam- After alongperiodofsufferingfrompaininhislefthand, Prominent Caribbeanracingsailorandcancerwarrior The BarbadosCancerSocietyaimstore-appointan Recently Andrewhasbeendiagnosedwithacancerous , , December2007. thereby reducingtheisland’sdeathratefrom Bruggadung IandII Sail fromtheHeart Andrew Burke’sSingle-Handed,One-ArmedRoundBarbadosSail ] to victoriesinhighly See “Bajan

Caribbean CRUISING GUIDE PUBLICATIONS GUIDE CRUISING FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 13 , before Virago sailing through the sailing through won the second race. won the second won The Superyacht Cup Sojana and Sojana Timoneer headed out to sea on long tacks, while headed out to was forced to tack off for clean air and was forced to Yanneke Too minutes before the finish. At Curtain Bluff, the the finish. At Curtain Bluff, minutes before Sojana , who had made it to the start only by gybing on , who had made it to the start tacked around the mark just after tacked around Yanneke Too Sojana Timoneer and Sojana the opportunity to overtake her and storm through the finish the opportunity to overtake Timoneer Sojana approached the line from way out to sea but did not lay the pin end of approached the line from way heading for the start. The Superyacht Cup joins Sailing Week and the heading for the start. The Superyacht Cup joins Sailing sailed up the middle of the course, benefiting from any wind shifts and wind from any wind shifts middle of the course, benefiting sailed up the Virago Classic Yacht Regatta as a stellar Antiguan event Wild wind shifts of 20 degrees on the beat back up the coast tested the helmsmen, up the coast the beat back degrees on shifts of 20 Wild wind within 10 min- all the yachts finishing very close sailing with Race Three brought Timoneer For more information visit www.thesuperyachtcup.com. Captain Marc Fitzgerald of and those with local knowledge (and a forgiving draft!) could hug the coast to take draft!) could hug local knowledge (and a forgiving and those with Finally, out of the heavy seas. the lifts and tack breeze and a big with 25 to 30 knots of weather conditions utes. Again, exhilarating impressive vessels with sea tested these line. By the “triple point rating” for the last race, line. By the “triple point rating” fleet and finally overtaking fleet and finally 38-metre Farr-designed to beat up the coast. hardening up Sojana speed variations. the line, giving Transatlantic Challenge and heading straight to Antigua, the finish line of the Rolex is perfect for this kind of event, both with outstand- told me that he thought “Antigua as well as the hospitality ashore and rum on the table!” ing conditions and tradewinds, Antigua 2007 by just 0.3 points. soon started to make her gains on the whole fleet farther off the coast. The larger, fleet farther off the coast. make her gains on the whole soon started to heavier ketches on the reach down to ANTIGUA’S SUPERYACHT CUP 2007 CUP SUPERYACHT ANTIGUA’S Patient Falcon over- all dis- Yanneke , the Nelson by Lucy Tulloch , and third Timoneer Sojana , the Ted Hood- told me that it was some of the best ocean racing he had told me that it was some of the best ocean racing he and Patient Falcon Virago on the first leg, keeping her full main and mizzen in the on the first leg, keeping her full main and mizzen staysail Tenacious crossed the finish line first, Patient Falcon , finishing with less than 6 minutes

Yanneke Too , a 36-metre Bill Dixon design. With a big

Palma de Mallorca in the Mediterranean and Antigua in the Caribbean: two of the Palma de Mallorca in the Mediterranean to 15th, 2007, And from December 12th Race One saw Race Two was blessed with stunning sail- Yanneke Too Kenny Coombs, founder of the Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta, who was sailing on Kenny Coombs, founder of the Antigua Classic Yacht most important superyacht destinations in the world — with some of the most envi- most important superyacht the second Superyacht Cup in the Caribbean immi- able sailing conditions. With for Tourism, The nent, Antigua’s Minister Lovell, had talks Right Honourable Harold of the Chamber of with Juan Gual, President the 2007 Monaco Commerce for Mallorca, at developing trade Yacht Show to discuss the industry. links specializing in the marine Cup, spon- Antigua’s second Superyacht and SLAM, sored by Camper & Nicholsons sailing conditions was held amidst fantastic with six entries ranging from 29 to 44 metres competing in three days of pursuit racing off English Harbour. the Big Boats the Big its Best!’ for for Best!’ its ‘Racing at ‘Racing ing conditions off the Pillars of Hercules at the entrance to English Harbour. The 44- metre Dubois-designed ketch Sojana between them! took winning by 2 minutes and 11 seconds. Second was gusty trades, and then overtook the smaller Marek-designed 30-metre, then by Too sea running and more than 25 knots of wind, the sailing was exciting. Easing sheets onto a broader reach down to Curtain Bluff, Yanneke Too, Timoneer played their downwind sails. This was fol- lowed by a dramatic beat into a black squall with gusts of up to 45 knots, off Turtle Bay. ever enjoyed. the 100-foot Swan designed 35-metre sloop, start first in a stiff breeze, followed by Curtain Bluff. 2007 in Trinidad, has built up a tradition of great tion of this New Year’s Eve race, held out of Antigua dinghy racing for the Southern Caribbean, pulling Yacht Club (AYC), was “absolutely splendid”. Thanks sailors of all ages and from several Caribbean nations go out to Tommy Patterson and the AYC for all their into the boats. Although only three types of boats organizational skills and giving of their time. This pursuit were raced (Optimist, Laser and SR-Max), the sailors race was not for the faint of heart, as winds with gusts Regatta raced the following classes: Opti Under 12, Opti Over of more than 35 knots passed through, creating swells 12, Laser 4.7, Laser Radial, Laser Standard and the and chaos in their wake. locally designed and built SR-Max. The big boats prevailed through the weather and Winds are notoriously light in and around Trinidad, the spoils of the “best elapsed time” were shared so sailors were happy that it was only on the final equally between Carlo Falcone’s beautiful 80-foot News day that they had to sail past Five Islands in order to Fife, Mariella, and the Swan 651 Tihama. Vessels of all find a breeze. By the end of that morning the wind sizes and fashions participated, including several of ‘Too Much Fun’ at SLYC Fun Day! came in strong, allowing all classes to complete the the new Dragons based at the recently founded On December 16th, 2007, the St. Lucia Yacht Club last two races and thus be allowed a drop from the Harmony Hall Yacht Club — their crews sailed magnifi- (SLYC) hosted its inaugural sailing Fun Day, inviting nine races sailed. cently. The competitive Swan 56 Lolita (past overall local and Atlantic Rally for Cruisers (ARC) sailors to the In the Opti Under 12 class, Derek Poon Tip (TTSA) and winner of Antigua Sailing Week) was even specially Laser and Optimist Dinghies event. An overwhelming Russell Franklin (Vessigny) placed respectively first and chartered for the event. 45 Laser sailors and 12 Opti sailors were geared for second again this year. Third place went to Kelly-Ann The race was partly clouded by an accident on one of the yachts. Unpleasant though this accident was, it was not life-threatening, and the incident was well handled by the Race Committee and coordinated by the extremely professional ABSAR (Antigua and Barbuda Search and Rescue) inshore lifeboat support- ing the race. In addition, the onshore medical facili- ties are very good in Antigua, and are always pre- pared to aid sailors. Despite this, facilities to deal with critical trauma, such as limb-saving operations, are perhaps not as sophisti- cated in Antigua as they are in neighboring Guadeloupe. The French Government has invested in the medical staff, facilities and equipment needed to SLYC’s first-ever deal with these most serious injuries and life-threatening Fun Day saw a conditions. And Guadeloupe is only a short helicopter high turnout and flight from Antigua (less than 70 km). high winds! Recently much work has been done by Neil Forrester (Chairman of Antigua Sailing Week) and Jean Michel Marziou (Triskell Sailing Organisation, Guadeloupe) in promoting closer sailing ties between Antigua and Guadeloupe. This endeavor has been hugely supported by the likes of Tommy Patterson and Stan Pearson in Antigua, as well as other active mem- bers of the French and Antiguan sailing clubs. However, a fail-safe agreement between the Governments of Antigua and Guadeloupe to allow racing. This response, however, meant that not only Arrindell (TTSA) who managed to keep both Abigail “bureaucratically free” emergency medical evacua- did courses have to be shortened, but due to a limit- Affoo and Myles Kaufmann just behind her in the last tion flights directly to the hospital in Guadeloupe has ed number of boats, only 30 Laser sailors were able to day of racing (placing fourth and eighth). yet to be ratified. take to the waters. The second race for the Optis was The dropped race came in handy for Nicholas Knox As more sailing events take place in Antigua (creat- canceled due to deteriorating weather, as the gusty (TTSA), who happily dropped his 11th place (a victim ing large influxes of people onto the island), the winds became challenging for the young sailors. of the dreaded capsize!), just beating his club-mate potential for straining the island’s medical resources Despite the long wait to sail a race or two, all sailors Wesley Scott (TTSA) and taking home first place in the increases. A medical “entente cordiale” between the enjoyed the day and many have been seen since, Opti Over 12 class. islands would enhance the safety considerations of all proudly wearing their free SLYC Fun Day T-shirts. In the Laser 4.7 and Laser Standard classes, the sailors participating in sailing regattas in Antigua (and The day was wrapped up with the prizegiving, and results stayed more or less the same from one day of allow all mothers of sailors to rest more easily during the following placed for prizes: Mark Spurway, Dario racing to the next. However, in the Laser Radial class, the racing season!). Daniel, Marcus Sweeney, Edgar Roe, Andreas Melia, the Leighton brothers had to give up first place to Nick Casey, Benn Atkinson, Christopher Uppheim, Sid Andrew Lewis, who clinched his position with a first Fast Barbados Round-the-Island Race 2008 Payne and Leo Sogden. and second on the last day of races, leaving brothers Renata Goodridge reports: Barbados likes to com- This day was such a success that the SLYC intends to Stuart and James Leighton with respectively second memorate one of its sailing statesmen, past Prime make it an annual event (they may need to find and third place. Perseverance is definitely a must for Minister Errol Barrow, by holding a race around the some more Lasers!). Of course, a day like this makes or any good sailor, so no doubt next year will see these island. This is not for novices, as the east coast of the breaks on the volunteer help, so thanks go to: enthusiastic brothers making a bid for first one island carries its share of shoals and big waves. This Danielle, who did an excellent job of organizing the more time. year, the event was held on January 20th, the day event; Gary and Faye for providing the committee The biggest surprise of the regatta this year was in before the bank holiday (allowing the sailors a day of boat Hullabaloo; Angela at the registration desk; Ted the SR-Max class. Paul Amon, the champion of this rest before getting back into the work week). and Peter on the start and finish lines, and many other class for the last three years in a row, was finally Three boats participated this year — all 80-foot maxi dethroned by Peter Baillie and his crew. No doubt racing boats. The local company Ocean Racing

FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 14 yacht club volunteers including Uli, Lily, Teresa, Fred and Barbara. Peter and his crew will enjoy the glory of this position Challenge entered their two Whitbread maxis, Athina Many thanks to the main sponsors: Ferrands Dairy, for the next year, and prepare to defend their title in and Martella. The visiting IMS maxi Longo Barda, Marintek, Johnsons Hardware, Peter & Co., Spinnakers, December 2008. owned by Paul Edwards of the UK, also joined In the Cats, Island Water World and Chris Doyle Publications, The best female sailor for the regatta was Abigail race. This latter maxi is a little bit wider and has a taller who allowed everyone to get on with the sailing, and Affoo, and the best male sailor was Christopher mast than the other two, so was able to carry more enjoy a great day on land and sea. Sposato of Barbados. sail, which helped her push ahead to win the race. The boats all raced equally, with a start SR-Max Upset at Guardian’s Southern Caribbean Regatta Medical Issue Raised at Nelson’s Pursuit Race, Antigua at 1015 hours. This regatta, held from December 27th through 30th, John Burnie reports: Rumor has it that the fifth edi- —Continued on next page

March 20th - March 24th • Yacht Races • Coconut Boat Races • J/24 Races • Crazy Craft Race • Local Double-Ender Races • Sandcastle Competition

Notice of Race & Yacht Pre-Registration: www.begos.com/easterregatta Tel: (784) 457-3649 e-mail: [email protected] FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 15 —Continued on page 33 This will bring the number of large Heineken regattas to seven. to seven. Heineken regattas of large bring the number This will The St. Maarten Heineken Regatta (March 6th through 9th), (March 6th through Regatta Maarten Heineken The St. year from March Regatta, held this The Culebra International adding a new one for 2008: the Curaçao Heineken Regatta, Heineken Curaçao the for 2008: one a new adding Festival will Curaçao Sailing Fun”. The motto is “Serious whose this year, with through 9th November 7th regatta from hold this Willemstad. and colorful historic held in and around racing probably the best known Heineken-sponsored set of races, best known Heineken-sponsored probably the 40 countries. Within over 2,500 sailors from over annually draws with quality and St. Maarten is synonymous the sailing world, visitors to the island increases the number of racing fun, and every year. event — over 70 is always a well-contested 14th through 16th, event in 2007. boats raced the Left: Curaçao’s Sailing Festival is now included in the roster Left: Curaçao’s Sailing Festival regattas of regional Heineken-sponsored the starting line at the 2008 Around Below: Maxis charge across Barbados Race fell behind a bit was not far behind Athina Martella The racing conditions were demanding, with consistent The racing conditions were the race that he would Paul Edwards had said before Heineken Regattas for 2008 For 30 years, Heineken has been involved in sponsoring These boats are fast! The visiting yacht won the race, with These boats are fast! The visiting a time of 5 hours 29 minutes; with a time of 5 hours 35 minutes. northeast tradewinds blowing at a minimum of 25 knots, northeast tradewinds blowing that all crews (even the sea- and the big sea swell ensured sick ones) needed to stay focused. his donate Bds$1000 to the crew that won the race. When their boat ended up winning, he promptly asked ORC what favorite charity was. So the Barbados Cancer Society, (see through Andrew Burke’s Sail from the Heart campaign is story on page 12), will benefit from Paul’s generosity. ORC be also donating their boats and time for this event, and will leg in the flotilla that will sail alongside Andrew on the final of his journey (down the calmer west coast of the island!). not These maxi men and women sure know how to support only local sailing, but local charities as well. sailing regattas in the Caribbean. And they are due to some sail difficulties, but finished with a time of 6 due to some sail difficulties, hours 3 minutes. —Continued page from previous FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 16 Australian boatbuildingexpertise. Grenada onthisstillfineexampleofAmericanboatdesignknow-howand guess Iwillpassontheboattohim.” ming around,astheysay,onabusinNewZealand.Iamheadingtherenowand I decided tosell).Now,I’vehadtheboatsolong,it’spartofme.Ihaveasonbum- and Shoal her. “IknewaboutRobinsonandthe Barbados wasraisedafteranuneventful16-dayrunfromtheCapeVerdes. steering isthesameoneusedonpreviousAtlanticcrossing.Onthistrip, wooden sparsandbronzefittings,arestilltherefunctioningwell.TheAriesself- ly 33feet(10metres). beautifully done,isalsoofatypeeucalyptus.Theboat’slengthoverallactual- marginata ited BarbadosandotherislandsduringaleisurelyAtlanticsojourn. electric anchorwinchandrollerfurlingforthejibafewotherluxuries.” or andputinanewBeta35-horsepowerdieseltoreplacetheBMCCaptain.Alsoan nearby. Whentheydecidedtomoveashore,Itookitover.rebuiltthecabininteri- 1916, inamarinaChichester,andMikeLiztheirkidsweretheboat to Englandinthe1960s. keeler fromtheSaundersfamilyofZimbabwewhohadsailedherMozambique Brothers in1952,wasanothersinglehander,BritisherCliveEllis. cumnavigations (during1928to1931). …FORDIFFERENTFOLKS Svaap rigged 30-footerridinggracefullyatanchorlookedfamiliar. DIFFERENT BOATS… This isClive’ssecondvisittotheCaribbeanin SVAAP From Barbados,ClivewasduetoheadforCarriacouintheGrenadinesandthen Clive saidhewasn’tparticularlylookingforavintagewoodenboatwhenbought Basically, exceptforthe“fewluxuries”,mostoforiginalgear,including The Driscollshadbuiltherhulltolast.Itisofthereallyhardjarrah( This isthesecondvisittoCaribbeanforClivein “I boughtherin1974.AtthetimeIwaslivingaboardanoldDutchbarge,built Clive, aretiredshipwright,saidheboughtthestillimmaculatelymaintainedlong On boardthelaterversion,named Rowing outtoher,IfoundherbethesistershipofJohnAlden-designed From theshoresofCarlisleBayanchoragethispastDecember,ketch in whichAmericanWilliamAlbertRobinsonmadeoneoftheearliestsolocir- ) woodwithcopper-riveted,steam-bentframes.Thelaiddecking,very on board.Ijusthappenedtobethereatthetime(whenSaunders by NormanFaria SISTERSHIP Walkabout Svaap and infacthavehisbook Walkabout and builtinAustraliabytheDriscoll Walkabout . In1979,hevis-

Deep Water

Eucalyptus PHOTOS (2): NORMAN FARIA NORMAN (2): PHOTOS over theworldnow,hetellsyouasmakescoffeeforusaboard his beach-hoppingsofar,isn’tanytrail-blazerinthatrespect.Thesportisall larizing thesportoutsidetraditionalareaslikeHawaiiandCalifornia.Holger,on say “perfect”—wave. Barbados, startingaCaribbeanquestforgood,ideal—hewouldn’tgosofarasto called the boat designer,PerBrohäll,cameupwitharemarkablelittlepocketcruiserwhichhe young surferssearchingfortheperfectwave.Alsointhatyear,aSwedish movie called what he’sseenoftheCaribbeansofar,itcouldberighthere. from seeingthemovie40yearsago(!).Holgerdoesn’tfeelhehastogothatfar.From film ‘EndlessSummer’foundtheirsoffthesoutheastcoastofAfrica,ifIremember Hotel atNeedham’sPoint,hehasn’tasyetfoundhisidealwave.Thetwostarsin the buying aMorganOutIsland. disagreements withthedescription“roomy”.WhileinBarbadoshewasthinking of pocket cruiser. Brohäll cameupwithareallyoutstanding,fast,reasonablyroomy,andinexpensive formance isthedistilledessenceofaseriescompromises”butwentontosaythat sail number634. 3,000 werebuiltandmanyaresailingallovertheworld. was wellbuiltoutoffiberglassbytheLarssonMarineyardinSweden1972.Over performed exceptionallywell. the CanaryIslandstoBarbados.TheGerman-madeWindPilotself-steeringgear boards, aretwolifevestsforGuvvy. waves there,”Holgerchipsin).Besidetheothergearonboard,includingsurf- Guvvy, whomtheyfoundwhilestayingatacampgroundinMorocco(“worldclass unknown breedcalled board isadogof California. Alsoon is asurferfrom Chavez, whonaturally, by oldfriendTony Atlantic, accompanied sailed Biscay. Holgerthen it acrosstheBayof both ofthemhadsailed friend KyleTaylorafter June 2006fromhis he boughttheVegain ed surfingin1985,said from Cologneandstart- the otherislands.” ward tovisitingsomeof terns. I’mlookingfor- the wavesizesandpat- weather whichchanges it dependsonthe the islandareokay,but onships. Thewavesin recognized champi- coast here,includingBathshebawhichIunderstandistheplaceforinternationally Carlisle Bayanchorage. Ideal WaveWillDo Back inthemid-1960s,movie‘EndlessSummer’wasinfluentialpopu- Recently, youngGermansurferHolger“Beule”SandersailedhisVegato In 1966,Americanfilmdirector/writerBruceBrownmadethestill-memorable Gazing atthewavescominghometobreakoverreefinfrontofnewHilton Holger, whodoescarpentryandshipwrightworkwhennecessary,mayhavesome A reviewofthedesignin The AlbinVegaturnedouttobeagoodchoice,too.27-foot(8.25-metre)sloop Everything hasgonewellsofar. Holger, whohails How isthesurfinginBarbados?“I’vebeentoacoupleplacesoneastandsouth Liza Albin Vega across the The EndlessSummer . Holger’s AlbinVega, Good OldBoat by NormanFaria Liza which chronicledtheworld-widetravelsoftwo made afairlyslow(28days)crossingfrom magazine’s websitenoted:“sailboatper- Liza, is aprovenpocketcruiser Liza (original name)bears Liza in the FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 17 It’s a rare sight to see politicians, police and the Baldwin DeRoche has been building boats since he And when the next vessel is launched I’ll be sure to There are many idle days when they can’t get the material they need, or sometimes just because it’s raining and they haven’t proper shelter. Simple things with seemingly simple solutions. press at a launching. It’s usually a priest, a bloody chicken and a bottle of rum. But boatbuilding is enjoy- ing a resurgence, thanks in part to people like Jeff, and the powers-that-be are starting to take notice. Young men can take pride in building a boat, some- thing rare in these days of mass production, and the old men are delighted when they can get a commission to keep their boys working and pass on their experi- ence and knowledge. was a boy and talks articulately about his craft. Next time he’ll use stronger rollers, maybe bigger. They were lucky to get the lead they needed, it has been a scarce commodity and it’s much better than the alter- native, a hull full of stones that can shift dangerously. Handling the lead is risky business, too. The last launching in Carriacou was delayed while the owners slowly collected old batteries to melt down for the lead content. There’s recycling for you! Too bad we can’t reuse all those aluminum beer cans to make a mast. be on time, just in case they can’t get lead for the bal- last and go back to cutting her down. Savvy pulling Launching in Launching out of the way. Another bit of Adelaide was afloat. Raucous cheering was , a big cargo vessel that carries all Afloat at last! Yellowbird Savvy Adelaide was first up. Her day job is school bus, taking Above: Local cargo vessel PO Box 39, Blue Lagoon, St Vincent, West Indies by Susan Payetta Magic Boatbuilding on Carriacou and Petite Martinique is into the sea Left: children from PM to Carriacou and back, but she was- n’t strong enough to pull the sloop out to sea. Next up was the sorts of freight to and from Grenada. She was up for the job, but the line let go on the first try, giving us time to move fiddling with lines from speedboat to cargo ship and suddenly immediately followed by a hasty retreat of the specta- tors boarding the last ferry returning to Carriacou, satisfied that they got what they came for. still a way of life for a handful of families that have been doing this work for generations. The youth aren’t as interested in this skill as much as the old folks would like. “Dem young fellas just wanna lime around,” I hear many of the old craftsmen complain. It’s hard work and can be tedious, doesn’t pay as well as construction and there are no tips from tourists. Petite Martinique Petite Tel. 1-784-456-9526 / 9334 / 9144 Fax. 1-784-456-9238 , a 65-foot [email protected] www.barefootyachts.com [email protected] Barefoot Yacht Charters & Marine Centre Yacht Barefoot • Doyle Sail Loft & Canvas Shop• Mechanical & Electrical Repairs• Vehicle Rentals • Raymarine Electronics• Ice & Water • Fibreglass Repairs• Island Tours• Quiksilver Surf wear • Refrigeration Work • On-site Accommodation • Laundry • Showers • Wi-Fi / Internet Café & Bar • Restaurant • Diesel & Propane • Surftech Surf Shop Exchange • Book • Boutique • Moorings • Hotel Reservations • Air Travel BAREBOAT CHARTERS - FULLY CREWED CHARTERS - ASA SAILING SCHOOL BAREBOAT CHARTERS - FULLY CREWED CHARTERS - ASA SAILING Jambalaya .) Film crews had abandoned .) Film crews had PM upwind from Carriacou’s Tyrrel Bay to upwind from Carriacou’s . It was now late afternoon and there were still and there now late afternoon . It was

AM ic 1984 Since “Launch de boat! Launch de boat!” The crowd was The crowd boat!” de Launch boat! de “Launch the the beach on there on them had been Many of The rollers themselves were a bit too small for the The rollers themselves were Jeff Stevens is captain of One last heave and the crowd gave a loud cheer, fol- and the crowd gave a loud One last heave sailing the Spencer 44 We had arrived a bit late, a few feet of sand between the boat and the shore. boat and the the of sand between a few feet from vari- listened to the speeches They had already Minister of including the Prime ous dignitaries, are part. (The “PM” and Carriacou Grenada, of which in the P.M. was on PM getting anxious. getting since Martinique of Petite island tiny Grenadine 9:00 Carriacou-built wooden schooner that plies the Grenadines on charter, a breathtaking sight under full sail, postcard perfect. He had this new sloop built to take smaller groups of guests out on day charter, but it was not meant to be. Before the vessel was complet- ed he had received a purchase offer. Now all he had to do to close the deal was get her rigged and ready to race in the Port Louis Grenada Sailing Festival at the end of January. Then he could start the whole thing over again and build the next boat. But first there was the troubling matter of a little sand. job and, since they were soft galvanized pipes, they job and, since they were load. Though not were flattening under the excessive was forced to use whatev- his first choice, the builder nature of boatbuilding in er was available — that’s the he will learn from the this neck of the woods. And next time. “Lucky” Jeff experience and it will be better gets a Mulligan. Petite Martinique that morning, Sunday, January Petite Martinique that morning, we had missed the 13th. I was disappointed, thinking to see all those strong cutting down. It’s a real delight large axes slashing at the West Indian men wielding vessel gently rests on her supports in unison until a was already attached side, but since this boat’s of lead, they chose to and loaded with 3,500 pounds while still in her cradle, roll the boat to the water taking so long. which explains why it was lowed by a collective sigh as the bow embedded itself sigh as the bow embedded lowed by a collective land. This was shoreline, the stern still on firmly into the of launching a 40-footer and the method a heavy boat for least by local standards. her was a bit unusual too, at Yellowbird their tripods, now gloriously employed to hold the now gloriously employed their tripods, of Guinness. boatowner’s bottle FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 18 NA-5, wastransferredin1987totheUSCoastGuard mand andcontrolatsea.TheLuders44yawl and racedhersturdybluehullwhilepracticingcom- Hundreds ofmidshipmen,tenor12atatime,cruised but enginelessmahoganyyawlofthesamename. Annapolis, Maryland.Shereplacedanearlyidentical vessels fortheUSNavalAcademymidshipmenin gambol: toleap,friskinsport Frolic: She wasbuiltin1965,oneof12fiberglasstraining Gaiety, aprank,merrymaking; Petite Calivigny Bay-St.George‘s-GRENADA -www.lepharebleu.com -phone473444 2400 -POS12°00‘11N/61°43‘29W Le PhareBleuMarina&Resort we‘re opennow! VHUYLFHVZLPPLQJSRROEDUORXQJHDQGD¿ FKDQQHOFXVWRPVDQGLPPLJUDWLRQRI¿ Located 15minutesfromtheairportandtown,marinahas60slipsforyachtsupto100feet,buoyedentrance At LePhareBleuMarina,Grenada,youcanfeelateaseknowingthatandyourboatwillbewelllookedafter. by EllenSanpere Frolic Guardianage & Yacht Management [email protected] Grenada St. George‘s P.O.Box 3636 Pascal Christopher Auto Rentals C&J , www.islandreamsgrenada.com ISLAND DREAMS reef, herdeckssoft,interioratermitebanquet.Her hurricane victiminSt.Croix,USVI.Herhullwasaliving bidders. Itseemedasthoughshewouldendherlifea VI governmentauctionedherinJuly2006,therewereno Lenny washedherashoreinNovember,1999.Whenthe 1994, buthadnoresourcestorestoreherafterHurricane Academy, paintedwhiteandrenamed tel 4734433603 Yacht Services The governmentoftheVirginIslandsboughtherin [email protected] Cell: 409-5108/409-5180 Tel: (473)444-5180 Tel/Fax: (473)444-5108 Everything youneedinoneplace: FHZDWHUHOHFWULFLW\9IXHOJDVROLQHZL¿ [email protected] QHGLQLQJUHVWDXUDQWRQERDUGDKLVWRULFOLJKWKRXVHVKLS Tel/Fax 4734432960 Cell 4734490780 Kittiwake

. HAYES / MCCANTS / HAYES and exterior…um,neededalittlework Christiansted boardwalkshowthat Before. ThesephotostakeninOctober2006atthe Lenny; past: and hadrebuiltseveralwoodenfiberglassboatsinthe sails, engineandcushionswouldbe? seven years,andwhoknewinwhatconditionherrigging, marked wherethewatersofSaltRiverlayfornearly hull wascoveredbyoysters,asharplineonherbulkhead now forsale.“Yawlsarestillnewtome,”hesays. near theRioSanJuaninDominicanRepublic,thatis Dancer Joe McCantsgrewuponSt.SimonsIsland,Georgia, Aleria ENRY`S SAFARI , aHunter30,andothers.Healsohashorsefarm Eco-Friendly Tours, LaundryServices, Hobo OURS LTD. Private Taxi Service, Yacht Services, , aJohnAldensloopdamagedbyHurricane Special Request,FillingGasbottles tel 4445313/4435296fax4460 , aJohnHammond44-footsloop; & Servicing,EmergencyRepairs,

neering, Generator Maintenance Marine Diesel&ElectricalEngi- 24 Hours Water24 Taxi& Water ODXQGU\LFHPLQLPDUWWD[L Email: [email protected] Tours

—Continued onnextpage —Continued

Frolic’s interior Ghost FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 19 , a Intrepid . now has new now has has also been Frolic Frolic Vigilant is finished, Joe and Diane will . She is currently on the hard in Frolic While Diane worked at the Paradise While Diane Frolic Café last summer, she noticed when the Café last summer, she noticed Yellow House space above Judith King’s seized the Gallery became available and of her own. opportunity to have a studio sign on its Named after the warning Your Step ancient stairway, the Watch was during Studio’s grand opening “I like the November 2007’s Art Thursday. and I can light, there’s a cooling breeze, “The studio do larger paintings,” she says. You know has a bathroom with a shower! to a cruiser, how important that can be shower, dur- especially one with a cockpit one wall por- ing the winter.” A mural on stone and trays the adjacent wall’s bare ruin, brick as a bougainvillea-framed step into beyond which one could almost hang on Trunk Bay. Bright red shutters mahogany table, replaced termite-dam- mahogany table, Joe has serviced and aged furnishings. of the 15 winches. Still reinstalled seven furling and topsides on the list: roller amidships will be con- paint. The bunks and settee. When the verted to a dinette blue, the name on the hull is painted, to will return SANPERE . They were pleased to find the hull and spars hull find the to pleased were . They Postscript: A major overhaul of The US Naval Sailing Association has been given per- When the work on done, and she participated in the Annapolis Sail Boat Show in October 2007. mission to raise money and find a home for sister ship of Dancer cush- that 17 sails, worked and the lights were sound, been awning had and an the nine bunks, ions for heavy The in good condition. ashore and were stored watertight. portlights were bronze Cross Street. windows overlooking Queen cruise the Caribbean for two to three years, then look for their next project. For Diane, that might be learning about oil painting, where the white is painted on last. For Joe, it might be another yacht restoration — or not. rigging, new non-skid on her new decks, and a new decks, and on her new new non-skid rigging, a native New wood, including electrical panel. Annapolis, about to be disposed of if USNSA cannot find the resources to keep her. For more information contact Bob Howe at [email protected]. , she Ghost Ghost Dancer Ghost recovery began in October 2006, with a tow to Frolic’s After. Joe and Diane are rightly proud of their beautiful- After. Joe and Diane are rightly ly transformed ‘plastic classic’ Indians near Rio San Carlos in southern Venezuela. She is eager to see more of the Caribbean islands and their people. the Christiansted boardwalk, where multiple layers of paint were power-washed away into many five-gallon pails. During a month hauled out at St. Croix Marine, Joe hammered off the oysters and replaced the boat’s engine and propeller shaft. At her mooring in the har- bor, Joe and Diane continued the work and moved aboard as soon as they could after selling sailed to Venezuela, where they explored islands and islands where they explored Venezuela, sailed to Yanomami a rare visit with the inland, including several St. Croix restaurants: Golden Rail, Styxx, Rail, Golden restaurants: Croix St. several color- boast large, Cove and Smuggler’s Shenanigan’s murals The public pieces. acrylic ful, ocean-oriented small- acrylic and in to private commissions have led Joe aboard With er watercolors. when trans- at a , NA-2, had retired , NA-2, Osprey Alert Frolic , then moved aboard , a Luders 44, on the Chesapeake 44, on the , a Luders , NA-12, and , NA-12, , NA-3, (renamed , NA-3, (renamed Vigilant Vigilant Ghost Dancer Resolute Joe sailed Joe sailed Diane and Gabby were full-time painters after A good friend of the late artist Gabby A good friend of the late artist from Academy duty and were in use at the Navy use at the and were in duty from Academy Joe’s Closer to Maryland. Club in Patuxent, Sailing home, Bay in 1982, and knew he’d like to have a Navy yawl to have a Navy he’d like 1982, and knew Bay in someday. —Continued page from previous Hurricane Hugo destroyed many of the island’s homes and offices and much of its artwork. They sold many of their paintings through displays at Baggy’s Too, a popular restaurant in Gallows Bay, where Diane worked as a waitress. “He taught me patience,” Diane says, an especially important skill when working in watercolors, where “you have to save the white space for last.” Living on a boat, however, meant she had to limit the size of her works to 11”x15”. Her desire to make larger paintings was satisfied in part by com- missions for murals. Her most visible murals are in with Joe. Living aboard a 30-foot sloop was not too dif- with Joe. Living aboard a 30-foot they could restore the ferent from camping. They knew graceful 44-foot yawl. Having a tiny mizzen would keep the boat head to wind at their mooring. Hayes, Joe introduced Gabby’s widow, Hayes, Joe introduced Gabby’s She had Diane Given Hayes, to sailing. of the har- lived and worked within sight childhood bor since 1987, and had loved her native camping vacations in St. Croix on a California. After coming to which she ten-day vacation trip from as a com- never returned, Diane worked for news- mercial artist, doing ad design Printing. For papers and at Caribbean After extra income, she waitressed. Diane helped Gabby’s death, in 2003, restore Department of Planning & Natural Department after the unsuccess- Resources mooring he could tell that 1) the ful auction, were as beautiful as he’d Luders lines and 2) immediate action remembered, would sink was needed or his dream in October. A before the next auction, until Joe rented pump kept her afloat submitted the only bid. ferred to the Coast Guard Academy), is ferred to the Lee and Larry Best of St. now owned by and has visited St. Croix John, USVI, Joe saw often. When FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 20 a fewsmallbasketsandbeadednecklaces. the houseplatform.WetradeT-shirtsandshampoofor used fortrade.BlueandYellowMacawsareflyingover come togreetusandaskfor“ me happy.Wepassafewhousesandthreecanoes bird-watching isbetterneartheshore,andthatmakes close totheshoreandoninsidesofbends.The We minimizetheone-tothree-knotcurrentbystaying that wewillbebackinafewweeks. ally sneakpast,butwedeclinetotradeandtellthem village ofabout300people.Wedon’tmanagetoactu- we donotgetstrippedofallourtradegoodsatthis “sneak” bythefirstvillage,BarraMacareoCosaria,so up thisrivertwicebeforeandwelistentohisadvice Macareo Meander.Bobon and in thefreshwater. nacles onthehullgivingtheirlastbreathastheydie to howlermonkeyscallingnearby.Ithinkhearbar- tions onthemangroveislands. island. TheScarletIbiseslooklikeChristmasdecora- and LittleBlueHeronslandingroostingonthe tograph ScarletIbis,BrownPelicans,SnowyEgrets water oftheMacareoRiver. Chaguaramas, Trinidad,andnowfloatedinthefresh der thefactthatwehad“brokensuction”from until ouranchorsaresettoflyoff,leavinguspon- partially submergedlogbehindtheislandandwait Orinoco Delta.Ninebrownpelicansarelinedupona River, oneofthemaintributariesinVenezuela’s Good TimeCharlie The riverisbroad,abouthalfamileacross,andsilty. We arefourboats: We sleepwithnewwonderfuljunglenoisesandwake As weenjoyourfirstsundowner,watchandpho- I welcome ustoPelicanIslandontheMacareo the localChamberofCommerceisonhandto t isnicetofeelwelcomeinanewanchorage,and Good TimeCharlie D D E E by DeviSharp S has beenupthisrivertwicebefore S T Arctic Tern,Asseance,Camille T . Ihavenamedourfleetthe Good TimeCharlie I I —Continued onnextpage —Continued N N A A cambio T T ,” theword I I has been O O N N S S M ACAREO M EANDER FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 21 (a moriche caños National Geographic —Continued on next page One morning we invite a young fisherman aboard for The traditional foods come from the river and the river the from come foods traditional The and he recognizes elephants, but not zebras. of the river move upriver in the dry season because the river becomes salty without rain and the constant influx of fresh water. a cup of coffee. We show him a land. Palm trees provide hearts of palm, hearts trees provide land. Palm flour is made into a paste that the palm) and fruit of protein source of is the main bread. Fish for baking turkeys (horned addition of river occasional with the The settlements and caiman. wild boar screamers), There is lit- land have chickens and pigs. that have dry not work well gardening because it does tle organized Many of the inundated environment. in this seasonally 20 miles in the settlements in the lower people living Above: We spent a portion of almost every day, and Above: We spent a portion of sometimes whole days, exploring side Left: Scarlet Ibises roosting for the night; the bird-watching is best near the shore At several of the settlements we are asked for flour and Bob provides us with a sense of what has changed a sense of us with Bob provides nessing a profound change in this culture as they move into the cash economy. sugar since these food commodities are very scarce. We are surprised that there is some interest in non-traditional foods — more than we were led to believe from the notes from previous cruisers. This is more evidence of change. is hard not to notice that some are very leaky. In many leaky. are very some that to notice not is hard but for centuries, as they have the Wareo live respects is coming fast. change set- Several of the years ago. last visit three since his and with tin roofs buildings now have some tlements larger set- more outboard motors. The there are many has have generators. The government tlements also the Wareo and outboards, but provided the generators We are wit- to buy the gas and oil. need to find cash magazines are popu- magazines are National Geographic The people living on Macareo River are Wareo By the end of the day we pass another settlement we pass another end of the day By the Indians and are called the “Canoe People.” That is an apt name. The Wareo houses are platforms built only a few feet above the river. Hammocks, baskets and bags hang from the structure and hold the posses- sions of the occupants. Most of the house platforms have no walls. The canoes are hollowed-out logs and it lar — everyone loves to look at the photos of animals loves to look at the photos lar — everyone and other people. and, to our great surprise, a pink sun hat is a hit. sun hat is a pink our great surprise, and, to for and traded are offered necklaces More beaded maga- T-shirts, more and toothpaste, toothbrushes Several boating D-cell batteries. hooks and zines, fish their newspapers have just increased magazines and circulation. —Continued page from previous FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 22 Wareo housesareplatformsbuiltonlyafewfeetabovetheriver (books). Youngkidsincanoes,whosecombinedageis and theotherismadlybailing.Theyaskfor water rhythmicallyflyingoutofit.Oneboyispaddling dren askfor to speak“Venezuelan”(Spanish).Allalongtheriverchil- dents. Hisprimarycurriculumistoteachthechildren give himanotebookandpencilforeachofhis28stu- called BarradeLatal)webefriendtheschoolteacherand have theadvantageofschooling.AtBocalaPela(also many moresettlements.Manyofthechildrendonot zebras? Therearetwoschoolsinthefirst60milesand Wareo arefamiliarwith—whyelephantsandnot It ishardtoknowhowmuchoftheoutsideworld frompreviouspage —Continued It iscomicaltoseeacanoecomingtowarduswith cuaderno and lapiz (notebook andpencil). libros width, andmaybemoreforalargerwoman. least ayardandhalfofcloth,dependingonits Scraps orsmallpieceswillnotdo.Adressrequiresat very closesecondis number onerequestisfor and abigsmile.Wearefloatingtradingposts.The done withminimalSpanish,goodskillincharades, ing. But,truthbeknown,thiswholetripcould speaker inourfleetofcruisers,Idoalottranslat- speak Spanishand,sinceIamtheonly gling andchatting.Wealllaugh. they haveanout-of-controlmomentthereismuchgig- about ten,managetheirboatsalmostflawlessly.When As wefloatbyasettlement,theexperiencedtraders Most ofthepeoplewetradewithunderstandand tela — fabricformakingdresses. flanelas (T-shirts) anda sy, butwefindthemhardtophotograph. clambering abouttheleaves.Theyappearabitclum- because offallingyoungandthenoiseadults Although theseareshybirdstheydonothidewell ability toswimarelostastheygrowintoadults. safety andclimbbackintothejungle.Theclaw ened theyoungsimplydropintowater,swimto around invegetation,andwhendisturbedorfright- claw oneachwingthatassiststheminclimbing other locationswherethesegrow.Theyounghavea giant arumplantandarefoundonlyinswampyor hand ontopofourheads.Hoatzinseatleavesthe crest andoursignalforthembecomesanoutstretched that ishavingaverybadhairday.Theyhavespiky look likesomethinginthechickenorpheasantfamily of siltinthetannin-brownwatermakesforaniceswim. and lunch.Thebird-watchingisexcellentthelack boats upaboutfivemiles,whereweanchorforaswim Nabasanuca isveryopenanddeepwetakethebig they sayyesandthatpiranhaareverygoodtoeat.Caño some meninamotorcanoeifthefishwerepiranhaand fish inaside One earlymorning,myhusband,Hunter,caughtthree retrace ourup-the-mainstreamroute. so onourwaybackdownriverwefollowitanddonot Tucupita hasaccesstotheRioMacareoatbothends, to allowustakethebigboatsupthem.Caño Macareo. Someofthe welcome changefromthesiltywaterofmainRio nels offofthemainriver.Some caños. every day,andsometimeswholedays,exploringside stop fortheevening.Wespendaportionofalmost poo andbarsofsoap.Wecanre-provisioninTrinidad. our lockersforextratoothpaste,toothbrushes,sham- their needs.Bytheendoftripwehaveallscoured the contentscarefullyscrapedoutserveasmodelsfor steel. Toothpastetubesthathavebeenslitopenand worse thantheoldbrushIuseforcleaningstainless would liketoacquire.Weseetoothbrushesthatlook The oldhandsat they areverycarefulandpoliteaboutapproachingus. side withthefenders,oritisjustgoodboatsense,but learned toapproachsailboatscarefullyandusethe meet usatourboats.Idon’tknowiftheWareohave come dashingoutintheircanoesandsetacourseto Hoatzins fascinateallofus.Theseprimitivebirds We spendthreedaysinthis18-milestretchofriver. Trading wearsusoutandwearehappyforanearly These arethesidestreamsandoldriverchan- caño off oftheCañoTucupita.Welaterask cambio caños bring samplesofwhatthey are deepandopenenough —Continued onnextpage —Continued caños offer a FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 23 down through the islands and down through the REAL SAILORS REAL SAILORS Street’s Guides are available the coast of Venezuela to the ABCs. the coast of Venezuela STREET’S GUIDES STREET’S Written by an author with 50 years of sailing with 50 years of sailing Written by an author at bookshops and chandleries, or from cover the Eastern Caribbean from Puerto Rico Caribbean from Puerto Rico cover the Eastern shipments & marine services BUY STREET’S GUIDES BUY STREET’S providing easy access for large garbage disposal & washroom cable TV, 24hr security, experience in the Caribbean, the series’ four volumes Caribbean, the series’ four experience in the Real sailors also buy the other guides, that have pretty Real sailors circle in Street’s Guide the anchorages that Real sailors use Street’s Guides for inter-island and harbor Real sailors use Street’s Guides www.iUniverse.com and www.seabooks.com water, fuel, telephone & internet, ARE MORE ECONOMICAL! MORE ARE • Drive-down dock with full marina facilities pictures and describe hotels, bars, restaurants and anchorages that are popular with bareboaters. are not described in the other guides. This enables them to find quiet anchorages far from “The Madding Crowd”. piloting directions, plus interesting anecdotes of people, piloting directions, plus interesting are the only ones that places and history. Street’s Guides the Eastern Caribbean. describe ALL the anchorages in up to 350’ LOA, 21’ Draft • Electricity (110, 220 & 380 3-phase), • 30 stern-to berths, 30 alongside berths • Excellent dockage for Super-yachts and lagoons def- caños Arctic Tern. Exploring the Orinoco Delta by yacht is a radical change from Lesser Antilles island-hopping. You must be completely self-sufficient

UNIVERSITY OF TEXAS This is not a trip for everyone. Not all bottom paint all bottom everyone. Not not a trip for This is I have many wonderful photos and memories of the Devi and her husband Hunter are currently exploring downers” and shared meals at mid-day in order to avoid the evening onslaught of mosquitoes. Bob had made his previous trips in the dry season and he said that the overall number of mosquitoes was lower in the dry season. But the upper is now available at the Members Only Maxi Taxi Only Members at the available is now The Chaguaramas. James) in office (Jesse Service the and we used and accurate very useful text is in the package. chartlets in immersion after a prolonged effective will remain that new bot- would be a shame to ruin fresh water. (It river.) Most a few quick weeks on the tom paint in There is no need to be self-sufficient. importantly, you grocery and You are the chandlery, place to re-supply. and the You are also the mechanic hardware store. season and trip was during the rainy doctor. Our our “sun- We on the four yachts had there were bugs. initely supported healthy mosquito populations even in the dry season. Rio Macareo — and by the way, the barnacles did die. the Caribbean in their (rooster balloons). More giggling (rooster balloons).

and our supply of balloons is low. Hey, we is low. supply of balloons and our

bombas de gallo

Falmouth Harbour Marina Falmouth bombas During our time on the river we make use of the Towards the end of the three weeks, we are begin- the three weeks, the end of Towards an impact that our presence has We are very aware www.antigua-marina.com [email protected] Tel: +1 268 460 6054 Fax: +1 268 460 6055 www.antigua-marina.com [email protected] Tel: +1 268 —Continued page from previous during the last two years. Tin roofs, generators, out- boards, schools, and visiting health workers are chang- ing the expectations of the Wareo. The river, mangroves and forest have sustained them for years, probably cen- turies, so one could argue that they do not need sham- poo and T-shirts, but you can also see that this is a cul- ture involved in the steep part of the change and “devel- opment” curve. We try to be mindful of our impact and make a positive impact on the Wareo culture. Rio Macareo navigation package that was put togeth- er by other cruisers in 1999 and recently updated. It all know the trick of blowing up a latex glove and tying latex glove and blowing up a the trick of all know kids how to it a chicken. We show the it off and calling make ning to run low on trade goods and we dig deep into we dig deep trade goods and run low on ning to ask little kids often creativity. The and our our lockers for feel are in a Many needs that they upon the Wareo. modern socie- on by the intrusion of large part brought the villages has been involved in ty. The government erupts from the kids. erupts from the FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 24 Bahía Icacos,Iwasdisappointedtoseenotone,but eight milessouthacrossViequesSound.AsIneared bombed endofVieques,sailingalighteastwindthe extensive reefsystem. coming overtheislandholdingmejustoffshoreof Vieques. Itwasasmoothsailwithsoutheastwind sail westforIsabellaSegunda,thesmallcapitalof ends. Imotoredbackoutbetweenthereefsandset was notallowedtoanchorthereexceptontheweek- that theyweredefusingunexplodedordnanceandI and theuniformedguygotoutkindlyexplained forward toanchorwhenatruckpulleduponshore a beautifulbaywithnooneelsethere.Iwaswalking island andacoralreef.IpulledinonWednesdayto Bahía Icacoshasatrickyentrancebetweensmall strafed fromthe1950suntiljustafewyearsago. tice rangewhereourgoodUSgovernmentbombedand a neatbayontheeasternend,formermilitaryprac- EXPLORING EASTVIEQUES So, onaweekend,Itookoffagaintovisitthe I hadtakenofffromCulebraforViequestocheckout by JohnSt. a 111-slipmarinaandboatyardwith12acresofdrystoragespace V Onsite amenitiesandservicesincludeabank/ATM, asupermarket, chandlery, restaurant,bakery,clothingstore, diveshop,phoneand a pristineandrelaxingenvironment.BVICustoms andimmigration Our facilitylocatedintheheartofbeautifulVirginGordacomprises D D offering insuranceapprovedhurricanepitstosecureyourvessel fax facilities,freewirelessinternetaccess, fuel,waterandice, IRGIN laundry facilities,andanofficeoftheBVITourist Boardallin Tel: 284495-5500 E E 284 495-5318 S S IN OURCARETHISSUMMER located withinconvenientwalkingdistance. T T G I I ORDA LEAVE YOURBOAT Web: www.vgmarina.biz N during hurricaneseason. N Full ServiceMarinaFacility A A VHF Ch:16 T T Y I ACHT I O O Fax: 284495-5706 N N H S S 284 495-5685 ARBOUR navigation waylessexact.Ihadagoodpictureinmy ing cumulushangingoverVieques,makingeyeball then, agiantplumeofcloudliftedupfromsomeboil- doused thesailsandwentforitunderpower.Just I couldclearlyseeanarrowpassinthroughthereef. tinuous reefenclosingthebay,withsunoverhead the eastwasempty.Althoughmychartshowedacon- ing forintheleast. ning allnighttokeepthemcool.NotwhatIwaslook- to sleepintheiricecastleswithgeneratorsrun- music allnightfromtheirbigboatstereosandthengo Puerto Rican.Theycandrinkandyellplayloud time, butfewholdacandletothepartypowerof a partyandhaveraisedfairamountofhellinmy big sportfishermenpulledin.Now,Iamalwaysonefor behind thereef.AsIclosedwithisland,threemore seven largesportfishermenalreadyintheanchorage As Isailedintotheharbor,noticednextbayto fresh tiretracks. completely illegalsurveyoftheisland,walkingonlyon seen theguardsdrivingonthem,soIheadedofffora bombs. Ifiguredthattheroadsweresafe,ashad ing “KEEPOUT”,withgraphicdepictionsofexploding burrs liningthebeach.Therewerealsobigsignssay- with hummus,Irowedashoretofindworld-classsand into aprecipicelikesmallRockofGibraltar. was alargesheercliffoflayeredyellowrockgoingout the boatanddecidedtoinvestigateitlater.Toeast wind andIsawabigdarkspotabout50yardsbehind grass anddroppedtheplow.Therewasalmostno look, Ifoundgoodbottominsevenfeetofwaterover boat aroundinatightcircletosmooththewaterfor with memoryandthedepthsounder.Spinning mind frombeforethecloud,though,andwentonin After lunchofrawonionandcabbagesandwiches —Continued onnextpage —Continued FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 25

CRUISING GUIDE PUBLICATIONS Grenada The guy pulls up beside me and rolls down his win- The guy pulls up beside me Back to the boat for a swim on my private little reef, Fair winds, and remember — “Stay on the road!” always wondered about the big red-and-white lookout always wondered about the island on the highest hill, tower in the middle of the side of being arrested by and was looking at the bright there and at least get to figuring that I would be taken see it. Hispanic in a dow. I say “Hi!” He is a nice-looking me with a smile and says guard uniform. He looks at in Spanish-accented English, “Stay on the roads!” Apparently the east Vieques mantra! I agreed to do so, saying that I figured if he could drive on them, I could I walk on them. And that was that. He drives on and walk on, still a free man and still always willing to take a chance. just off the stern, where I saw plenty of sea life includ- ing large yellowtail worthy of whacking. Then a beau- tiful sunset with the yellow cliff lit up by the red set- ting sun and a quiet night with all the sportfish noise and lights downwind behind the hill.

GEORGE BLANN Then it was back across the island by a different I headed back towards the boat down the road run- south side of Vieques. The tank was now in the south side of Vieques. The with a cutting torch, the process of being dismantled scrap. The large air-cooled parts placed in a big pile of been removed, the turret engine and transmission had barrel had been cut up had been cut off, and the gun started cutting up the like sausage links. They had metal was easily one and a body of the tank where the was going through a half inches thick. Somebody bunch of tanks of oxygen. route, skirting a large dried-up salt pond with craters of dark blue-green water pocked throughout. I figured they would make great hot-tub mineral baths, but for the exotic metals in the explosives probably lingering in the water. ning beside all of the sportfishermen, and over the hill to my boat’s anchorage. Just as I was crossing the last hill, I heard a truck coming up behind me and figured I was screwed — caught trespassing red-handed. And I had been so close to getting away with it! I had Below left: Peaceful Peaceful left: Below with the contrast landscapes a former role as island’s practice site bombing solitude, for Right: Searching found an our correspondent to at unusual spot Bahía Salinas 16ft channel • 24 hour security Shower facilities • • Telephone hook-up • 120 concrete slip berths Fuel dock and bunkering WE OFFER: • • Free satellite TV at each slip • (single phase and three phase) Tel: 599-5442309 Fax: 599-5443378 Electricity: 220V/ 50amp; 110V/300amps • Pick-up and drop-off from major supermarkets • Join us this summer and continue to enjoy the hospitality. Wireless internet, banks and laundry within the complex P.O. Box 4540, Airport Road, Sint Maarten, N.A., Caribbean

• We monitor VHF channels 16 & 79A (alpha – American system)

Over and over again our guests refer to our marina as their “Home”! I headed back down into the valley and as I was I headed back down into On the south shore I climbed a hill where a large There were bomb craters everywhere and no trees of and no trees everywhere bomb craters There were and of roads running every direction There were plenty Visit our website: www.sbmarina.biz E-mail: [email protected]

THAN A MARINA: IT’S HOME! IT’S MUCH MORE crossing to the south side of the island, I passed what crossing to the south side of truck convoy made up of appeared to be a simulated old heavy-construction equipment — bulldozers, road graders, pay loaders, tractors and such. It stretched for a quarter of a mile and had had the literal living ____ (rhymes with skit) shot out of it. Large iron castings were shattered, hard steel-cogged drive wheels three feet in diameter and five inches thick were broken like cheap china, giant diesel engines were smashed and thrown clear of the vehicles and every piece of metal remaining was ripped and perforated with bullet holes of all sizes (Swiss cheese has fewer holes). Sherman tank had sat for years on a promontory. This had always been a landmark when sailing down the roads. As I came around a curve, I discovered three low- roads. As I came around a curve, and mortars. My deter- sided steel boxes full of bombs was certainly strength- mination to stay on the roads the yellow cliff to survey the ened. I climbed to the top of returned, and learned I had boat, now that the sun had isolated inner reef. anchored just ahead of a small any large size. The landscape here is gently rolling and is gently rolling here size. The landscape any large in — more than everywhere port-o-potties I noticed can dud bombs I guess defusing parks. most public muscle. on the sphincter adverse effect have an on the shrapnel everywhere, including sharp-edged —Continued page from previous FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 26 ible. Coralwasused asgravelwhentheroadswereconstructed. with asphalt.Insome places,wheretheasphalthaseroded, piecesofcoralarevis- fallen intothesea.If youcomeashoretoexplore,you’llseethat thetrailsarepaved Those inlandhavebecome trails,whilemostofthecoastal roads haveerodedand buildings willbetakenoverbythevegetation andnaturewillreclaimwhatwashers. as mostfloorsarewoodenandpartshave decayedaftertheyears.Eventuallyall down onyou.Thiscautionshouldbeextended toanybuildingsyouplanexplore, buildings, exercisecautionastheymaybe unstable—theroofcouldcomecrashing Authority (www.chagdev.com).Ifyouintend tocampinoneofthemanyabandoned rain. Ifyouarecampingorboating,bring yourown. last century.Thereisnofreshwatersource, soformerinhabitantsdependedonthe of thelepersweresenthome. 1984, aftertheintroductionofsuccessfultreatmentbymulti-drugtherapy, last its isolation,decreasingthechanceoflepersspreadingdisease.InSeptember into alepercolonyandevictedtheinhabitants.Theislandwaschosenbecause of 1921 allthischangedwhenthegovernmentofTrinidaddecidedtoturnisland used topullthewhalesuponlandextractmeat. the southwestofislandarestillseentoday,inparticularrailtracksthatwere ed for50years.However,ruinsoftheoldwhalingestablishmentatBulmer’sBay on mercial cropsometimearound1850andwasreplacedbywhaling,whichonlylast- trees alongthewayfromSandersBaytoMarineBay.Cottondisappearedasacom- cotton plantations.Youcanseeremnantsoftheplantationsinclumps Amerindians andtheSpanishhadsettledonislandestablishedsea found inmiddensatSandersBayonthesouthside.By1777therewerenomore dug andconcreteammunitiondumps. Government in1947.Smallportionsofthebuildingsremain,aswellsomedeep- Bay, alsointheeast.ThesesitesweregivenbacktoTrinidad&Tobago at PerruquierBayintheeast,threearoundlighthouse,andtwoaboveRust’s racks werebuilttohousethem;threearoundtheconventareainMarineBay, one tions arenotknown. the nuns’quarters,theyhavegottencoveredwithvegetationandtheirexactloca- There areafewcemeteriesontheisland.Exceptforsmall,well-keptonenear solitary setofstairsoraflatpadconcretewhenyouarewalkinginthebush. for theirfoundationsalongwithsomeconcretestairs.Don’tbesurprisedtoseea is leftofitsometheequipment.Notmuchmanybuildingsexcept Hindu templeforEastIndianpatients.Therewasajailandcinema;sadlyallthat that caredforthelepers.TherewerealsoCatholicandAnglicanchurchesa eroding roadsandabandonedhousesinvariousstages.Whateventstheyhaveseen! I fellinlovewiththeisland.Whatattractedmewasthatitisahugeghosttown, camped intheabandonedNun’sQuartersatMarineBayonnorthsideofisland. known, becauseofthelepercolonyplacedtherein1920s. of theseislandshavebeeninhabitedatsometime,Chacachacareremainsthebest house keepersarepresent),asmostoftheotherBocasIslands.Although largest andwesternmost.Presently,Chacachacareisrelativelyuninhabited(light- Chacachacare: Chacachacare boaststheonlysaltpondinTrinidad&Tobago Because ofitsoncerelatively largepopulation,theislandhad anetworkofroads. Camping canonlybedonebypermission oftheChaguaramasDevelopment If youspendafewdaysontheisland willgetthefeeloflifehereduring All thewhileChacachacarewasgrowingandoncehometo300people.In The firstinhabitantsweretheAmerindiansandevidenceoftheirpresencewas Why wasanentireislandabandoned?Letmegiveyouabriefhistoryoftheisland. During WorldWarII,abattalionofUSMarineswasstationedhereandninebar- Besides homes,therewereoncehospitalsandquartersforthenunsdoctors I firstvisitedtheislandduringaTropicalIslandEcologyfieldtrip,asanundergrad.We Of the14islandsoffnorthwesterncoastofTrinidad,Chacachacareis GHOST TOWN A TROPICAL ALL ASHORE… by Jo-AnneSewlal —Continued onnextpage —Continued FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 27 473 443 8783 VHF Channel 16 Aquanauts Dive Center www.truebluebay.com [email protected] Resort & Villas Villas & Resort Indigo Car Rentals & Horizon Yacht Charters Indigo Car Rentals & Horizon True Blue Bay Marina Bay Marina Blue True Dock, moor or set anchor at True Blue Bay located in the south Bay located in the south or set anchor at True Blue Dock, moor full service marina and and enjoy our coast of Grenada cocktails and delicious Caribbean fabulous accommodation. Dock Lounge Bar and at our waterside Dodgy dishes are a must minutes walk from Spice Located five True Blue Restaurant. drive from the airport. Services and five minutes Island Marine

CONNELLY-LYNN

CRUISING GUIDE PUBLICATIONS SEWLAL (third edition): Cruising Guide to Trinidad and Tobago GETTING THERE You can also sail to Chacachacare in your own boat. It’s about five miles from the According to Chris Doyle’s Sounds good so far? But how do you get to this island? Sounds good so far? But how do you get to this island? by water taxi. This can be For locals and land-based visitors, the usual way is One road takes you past a natural wonder of the island: the salt pond. Many of the One road takes you past a natural wonder of the island: are also vultures, and it is Most of Chacachacare’s vegetation is desert-type. There are shallow for many After hiking, enjoy a swim on one of the beaches. Many if you get the urge to visit a So, whether you are a visitor or a local of our shores, “Chacachacare Bay offers excellent cruising.… The wind tends to blow from either the southeast or the northeast, so one side is often more protected and you have to be prepared for a change in wind direction. The bay is very deep, and when it shelves it does so rapidly. The distance between anchoring depth and aground may be less than 100 feet. Therefore it pays to approach any anchorage cautiously…. Sanders Bay probably offers the best all-round anchorage.” yachting centre of Chaguaramas to the island. There are four or five anchorages in Chacachacare Bay. expensive, but the larger the group, the lower the cost per person. On my visits to expensive, but the larger the group, the lower the cost the Nuns’ Quarters at Marine Chacachacare, we have docked at the small jetty at Bay and the larger jetty at Sanders Bay. smaller islands in the Lesser Antilles, such as St. Kitts and Anguilla, have numerous smaller islands in the Lesser Antilles, such as St. Kitts one in Trinidad & Tobago. salt ponds; however, this is the only place you will find electricity lines, adding to the common to see a vulture sitting on a cactus or on old of the island. ghost-town atmosphere. To me, this is part of the fascination who cannot swim or just metres before ending in a sharp drop, perfect for people want to laze in the sea. ghost town, why not try our Caribbean version? —Continued page from previous on the northwestern Point Gourde in Trinidad as such areas also seen in (This is over have been taken of the verges roads. Most is left of these This is all that coast.) to the lighthouse, road leads only maintained vegetation. The and short by shrubs is functioning. which Below: Except for the small, well-kept one near the nuns’ quarters, the cemeteries Below: Except for the small, are covered with vegetation Above: What attracted me was that it is a huge ghost town… Above: What attracted me was FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 28 Tel: +596(0)5967480Fax:[email protected] Centre deCarenage97290LeMarin Le Marin • gasstation • tel+fax+internet • water/ice/laundry • deepwaterstern-toberth gas station:(+)596 596661730 POINTE DU BOUT, MARTINIQUE RESTAURANT e-mail: [email protected] Open 7/7VHF:16/68 CUSTOMS CLEARANCE Tel: (+) 596660545 DOCK, BAR Antifouling Epoxy Batteries Marine Paints Plumbing Zinc Anodes IN MARTINIQUE MAINTENANCE BOAT FOR SPECIALIST THE 14˚33N -61˚03W & undeveloped places You canstartfromtheanchorageatBritanniaBayandwalktobeautiful, MUSTIQUE back ontherealthing. right downtothecoast closebyWilksIslandandhadtocut backinlandtoget see abitoftrailahead andfiguredouthowtorejoinit.We followedafalsetrail stopped photographing them. tus andsmallplantsbenttothewind.Tortoises becamesocommonplacethatwe ed northalongthetrail.Itisverywildand beautiful,withhundredsofbarrelcac- getting lostandtakingplentyofphotos. servation area.”Ittookusabout45minutes towalkthispoint,includingtimefor which isadirtroad.ThisleadstoObsidian Baywherethereisasignthatsays“con- house onyourright.Hereyouhaveachoice ofroads:takethelessobviousrightfork, come toObsidianHouse;anindicationyou havemissedit. and acattlegridgoesacrosstheroad.Turn lefthere.Ifyoufailtodothis,will until youcometoasharpleftturn.Onthecornerofthisturnisconcreteshed past thepostsiswaytogo.Ifyoustayonmainroad,ithardgowrong Bay. Atthispointtheroadgoesuphillandhastwogatepostsineitherside— where youseefirstaworksdrivewayonyourright,andtheroaddowntoLagoon beach, whichmeantgoingoneblockeast. towards LagoonBay,butthistimestayedontheroadratherthanfollowing tortoise ofthedayamblingalongroadside.Wefollowedroadsouthback have wantedtostartoutlateras,bythetimewegotback,daywasgettinghot. ern andwildestthirdoftheisland.Weleftboatat0715hours,wouldnot probably alreadyknow. trees soyoucanaddblack,white,andbuttonmangrovetothered A clearingallowedustoseesandpipersandawhimbrel.Theyhaveseveralsigns on of theMusticoworkbuildings.Thishelpedwithorientationonournextday’swalk. and northsideofthepond.Waybackthroughmangrovesyoucatchglimpses east alongLagoonBaytotheroadwaywheretrailstartsagainround saw afinegeckoinsideontheceiling.) out withbinocularsandidentifyanybirds.(Wedidnothaveourbinoculars,butwe trail leadstoacuteobservationblindwithseatsandwindows,whereyoucanhang found ourselvesonthesaltpondtrail,whichgoesrightroundlagoon.Aside There comesapointatwhichthesaltpondalmosttouchesbeach.Herewe ing newroadandfoundourselvesonacoastalpathwaywithpalmsbeach. places. Thefollowingwillhelpyoufindyourway. right fromtheanchorageatBritanniaBayandwalktobeautiful,undeveloped great trailsintheconservationareas.Thewonderfulthingisthatyoucanstart them tosearchfortherichandfamousinsteadtakeadvantageofsome signs andguardhousestostopyougettinganywhereontheproperty. welcome differencefromsomenewerandbrasherdevelopmentsthatuse“keepout” but intensofmillionsdollars. ronment butdowellinrealestate.Housepricestherearenotmillionsofdollars, iting thesupplyofhouses,theyhaveshownthatyoucannotonlypreserveenvi- who havedecidedtolimitthenumberofhousesoutsideLovellVillage90.Bylim- bike orwanderinpeace—throughanoftenwildlandscape. spoilt andmostnaturaloftheGrenadineislands;aplacewhereyoucanhikeor house-building frenzy,Mustiquemightsoonbebetterknownasoneoftheleast However, astheotherGrenadineislandsgettakenoverbyaland-sellingand TRAILWAYS The trailispoorlymarked andwewentastrayseveraltimes, butoftenwecould From herewefollowedtheremainsofan oldroadovertotheeastcoastandhead- It isuphillagain,butearlyinthemorning, itisshadyandcool.Youcometoabig After 20minutesorso,therecomesapointasyougetclosetothesaltpond, The firstpartwasonroad;itshadyandcool,wesawourred-legged The nextmorningwesetoutonamoreambitioushikethatwouldcoverthesouth- East CoastHike The pathemergesinLagoonBaywithaperfectswimmingbeach.Wecontinued Our firstexplorationledussouthwardalongtheshore.Wesoonleftspank- The SaltPondTrail Yachtspeople woulddowelltosuppressanygroupietendenciesthatmightincline Luckily, yachtingvisitorsarewelcometowandertheroadsandusetrails,a The MustiqueCompany,whichmanagestheisland,isownedbylandowners, Think Mustiqueandmostpeople’smindswillturntotherichfamous. (three tothreeandhalfhours). (45 minutestoanhour) —Continued onnextpage —Continued FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 29 and repair Penn Reels Penn Parts Penn Service ous parlons Français Wir sprechen Deutsch N snorkeling and fishing gear. The ONLY Duty Free Chandlery in Bequia The ONLY Duty Free Chandlery SS fasteners, rope, Spectra, pumps, hoses, complete diving, SS fasteners, rope, Spectra, pumps, Electronics, marine electronics, 12 & 24 volts, inverters, lights, Electronics, marine electronics, Some people call us the “most interesting shop in the Caribbean.” us the “most interesting shop in the Some people call spring, or a ladder? Come to us Looking for a table hinge, a hatch line with a lure just right for Want to catch fish? Get a simple hand all: suits, tanks, belts, masks, fins Diving or snorkeling? We have it Phone/Fax: 784 458 3360 [email protected] Phone/Fax: 784 458 3360 Hablamos Español sockets, navigation, charts, guides, marine hardware, blocks, cleats, sockets, navigation, charts, guides, Wander around. You will find things you have been seeking for ages. will find things you have been Wander around. You accessories range of hardware as well as necessary We offer a wide and spares. time. and get the right screws with it one rod and reel to help you win the next the speed of your boat, or go for a in sharing our expertise with you fishing tournament. We take pride because we want YOU to succeed. lenses for the masks. and snorkels. We even have prescription Icom VHF Garmin GPS Accessories Leatherman There are other trails in the northeast of Mustique that I have not explored, but There are other trails in the northeast of Mustique that At the headland just before Pasture Bay, we failed to find a coastal path over the coastal path over to find a Bay, we failed before Pasture headland just At the We had now shelter down to the beach. trail led us from this An excellent shady cannot swim in Pasture Bay as the currents are too strong.) But even at this time cannot swim in Pasture Bay as the currents are too instead to head west on the of the morning, the sun was heating up and we decided Bay. We were back in shady roads over the center of the island back to Britannia time to buy Maranne’s Ice Cream at the coffee shop. they are on my “to do” list. headland (if there is one), and found ourselves instead climbing a well-made path a well-made instead climbing ourselves one), and found (if there is headland road, we we saw the just as about this, because were happy the road. We back to a perfect shelter with roofed seating down to a that led back another trail also saw Pasture Bay. view of along the my original plan was to continue two and a half hours, and been walking swimming. (You Bay, which is great for the headland to Macaroni beach and over —Continued page from previous Below: The red-legged tortoise is Mustique’s unofficial mascot Below: The red-legged tortoise is Mustique’s unofficial FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 30 YAMAHA GRENADA W.I. TRUE BLUE,ST.GEORGE’S, cnyeBros.Ltd. McIntyre EQUIPMENT MARINE SERVICE SPARES (DUTY FREEPRICES) ENGINES KMRN TEL: (784)4571806 FAX:(784)4561364 TOURS &CRUISES-CARJEEPRENTAL Y AMAHA MA Located CALLIAQUA,St.Vincent email: [email protected] PHONE: (473)4443944/1555 E-mail: [email protected] PAIE opposite Howard’s Marine Outboard Engines2HP-250HP Duty-Free EnginesforYachts FAX: (473)4442899 P.O. Box17,Kingstown Parts -RepairsService R INE DISTRIBUTOR LTD insurance help? assistance isrequired,doyouknowadoctor?Will or ashore,andnooneknowswhereweare?Ifmedical should wegolost. should knowouritinerarywhenmakingpassages, at theready.Alsoitisforgoodreasonthatfriends on deckandhavinglifejacketsfireextinguishers should practicesafetybywearingharnesseswhenout cramped. I turnedsouthfor Chaguaramas and IMS was tooremote,and atthattimeSpiceIslandwastoo have anoperatingone then,St.David’sinGrenada a properboatyard. Tyrell Baydidn’treallyseemto Carriacou. Afterweathering thereverseseasIneeded behind thenot-so-protective SandyIslandof 1999. Theold find friends. accidents, butaboutTrinidad,avery good placeto my bestinsurance.Thisisn’treallyabout insuranceor when Ineededthem? can affordthat?Woulditreallyputmein goodhands a survivingfew.Thenthere’shealthinsurance. Who efits fromtheirownpolicy,butitmakes lifeeasierfor Life insuranceisanother‘sure’badbet,as nooneben- able, asmymanyinstancesofnegligencehaveproven. anchored atacrowdedharborwithmechanicsavailable. down. Bettertheenginedoesn’tstartwhenyou’re Better thehalyardsticksgoingupratherthancoming E But whatifbadluckhits,somethinghappensatsea My seriousbadluckstartedwithHurricane Lennyin Then therearefriends.Havinggoodfriends hasbeen I neverbelievedininsurance.My There aretimeswhenbadluckcanactuallybegood. Bad LuckinaGreatPlace and cellphonechargedready.Weall boat systemsingoodconditionandtheradio very sailorcaterstogoodluckbykeepingall Part One Sea Cow took severelickshooked Sea Cow is unsink- By RalphTrout (Industrial MarineServices). days. ItwastheholidayseasonandIdidn’tknowany- ical andcosmeticrepairwascompletedinjustten That wastheseventhofDecemberandeverymechan- if ofherownmind. Coasties. AllIgotwasnauseous.Thenshestartedas flares asfishingvesselspassed,andcalledthe and currents,Ifranticallybledtheinjectors,sent before, fromwaterinthefuel.Notknowingtides entering theBocas.ItsPerkinshadonlycutoutonce that allcouldbesorted out—theleastofmyworries. engine oil,filters,and spareswerealsointhere.Ohwell, stowed inthetrunkof thenowsmashedrentalcar.Allmy charge! Socializedhealth caregotmyimmediatevote. shoulder andsentmeonmyway.Absolutely no repair wouldrequireaspecialist.They thensetmy man explainedmyrightarmhadserious problems and to aroomwithtwodoctors,manand woman.The and withinanhourIhadX-raysthen waswheeled Third World.YouwilltakewhatIgiveyou.” moment inperfectperspective.“Sir,you areinthe monthlies. Itwasthenthatnurseputmy lifeatthat of DarvonandIjokedthatwas forwomen’s pain, butitwouldcome.Shereturnedwith asyringe dent, Iexplainedwasseeminglyinshockashadno floor. AfterthenursetoldmeI’dbeeninanautoacci- into theturnitwouldhavebeengonzoforRalph. my shoulder.IfIhadliterallybeentwosecondsfurther had savedmylife.Theseatbeltdiditsjobbetterthan shoulder wasdislocated.AlaterlookshowedtheSentra at overtakingcarsmakingsignaledturns.Myright what happened.Ididn’tknowthatTrinidriversaregreat empty asIturnedintoTropicalMarine. five intheafternoonandWesternMainRoadwas the weekendtotouraroundTrinidad.Itwasadusky Christmas. Irentedaten-yearoldNissanSentrafor at Basil’sBarinMustique. Prickly Bay,Grenada,andthenontoOldYear’sNight prop shaft,Iplannedtoheadbackbuddiesin one inTrinidad.Assoonasanewzinccameformy year’s Carnival at theMasCampPubinPortofSpainduringlast Left: CalypsoKingoftheWorld,MightySparrow, fell inlovewithTrinidad Above: FolkslikeTantyElsieareamajorreasonwhyI sprasapeoiin the As perhapsapremonition, Then Irealizedallof my paperswereinrucksack Being atourist,Iexpectgotpreferential treatment I wasstretcheredonthehospitalfloor,aspotless I awakenedinPortofSpainHospital.didn’tknow It waslateafternoononSaturday,oneweekbefore Sea Cow was onthehardatIMSsameday. —Continued onnextpage —Continued Sea Cow stalled FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 31 Mel Gibson in would sail again! à la Cow and pulled my shoulder out of and pulled my shoulder , I pushed it back into place against , I pushed it back into place Cow In those five months I fell in love with Trinidad. For Through another quirk of fate, I got referred to prob- Next month: In Trinidad today. Again, the Caribbean’s rule of, “It’s not who you It worked, with no scar. Three months went on to five The doctor laughed when I said I wanted the screw. Actually my total Trinidad physical repairs, with I didn’t know a doctor anywhere, in the islands or I didn’t know a doctor anywhere, to Tropical Marine Then came the friends. I returned After a painful, night I went to Sinclair night I painful, restless After a Carenage evening, the police from the The following car sat, to raise its head. The rental Liability started ladder resting I tried to move the light aluminum good reasons, I had to rent an apartment away from the toxic boatyard environment. Maxi drivers would drop their ‘hire’ sign and take me directly to my doc- tor’s office. I tried to walk everywhere and met with no problems. No one tried to take advantage of my condi- tion. I became a regular at Jenny’s Wok Friday limes and Smokey and Bunty’s, and knew every one of the many green spaces Port of Spain has to offer. The Savannah, with the more-than-adequate zoo, botani- cal gardens, art and history museum, coconut water, and shark-and-bakes, occupied many afternoons. Once my arm healed, I rented cars and headed to the end of every road on the island as none go all the way round Trinidad. ably the only Trinidad attorney who would handle my accident/insurance claim on contingency. Those tall buildings in Port of Spain weren’t built because insur- ance companies easily pay claims. I won the case after two and a half years. (But to get the settlement in arbi- tration I have to return for court sessions twice a year, for four years so far!) know, but who you drink with” came into action. While sucking down some libations, Mike Lancer’s father, John, the owner of Tropical Marine, put me on to Trinidad’s foremost orthopedic surgeon, Dr. Louisang, who was also an avid fisherman. The Doctor said he could bring back my arm, but it would take an operation and at least three months of recuperation. before my shoulder tendons were healed enough that the screw implanted in my shoulder could be removed. “Probably so cheap a yachtie you’re going to reuse it on your boat,” he said. “No,” I told him. “As I’ve never married, this is the most expensive screw of my life!” apartment rental, came to less than US$3,000! My arm was almost as good as new. The stateside. My shoulder needed specialized attention, stateside. My shoulder needed yet that was probably not affordable. the man I was told had and re-met Mike Lancer, We had previously played pulled me from the wreck. Saloon along with some pool at Tropical’s Wheelhouse fellow fisherman Derick. his brother Mark, and Another cruiser at the dock had my rucksack and told me who was holding my box of parts and oil. Everything was returned with smiles of pleasure that I had actually survived the accident. joint. In a grimacing maneuver joint. In a grimacing maneuver that unless my shoul- my boat. I knew with certainty days were finished der got some magic, my boating change dramatically. If I and life as I knew it would reel in a fish, pull an couldn’t hold a ladder, I couldn’t anchor, or lift a dive tank. Lethal Weapon 1 Private Nursing Facility and the doctor there said doctor there and the Nursing Facility Private damaged tendons to repair the could be done nothing better I did get a joint together. the shoulder holding pain prescription. as to I make a formal statement Station requested I walked with about the accident. what I remembered police station in a sling to and from that my right arm would- any hassles. That probably after dark without of the young today’s Trinidad. The father n’t happen in the accident me was also there and said driver who hit no right to be since as a foreigner I had was my fault on Trinidad roads. station’s gate. Then the bent and irreparable, at the tore up my credit card car rental company actually slip so I didn’t owe them anything. alongside the —Continued page from previous And yes, Trinidad does have palm trees and beaches, too… FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 32 Fair tides! after itsrising,thetiderunswestward.Timesgivenarelocal. setting tojustafteritsnadir,thetiderunseastward;andfromnadirsoon reaches itszenith(seeTIMEbelow)andthenrunswestward.Fromjustafterthemoon’s the eastsoonaftermoonrise,continuestorununtilaboutanhourmoon passage (orzenith)ofthemoonforthisandnextmonth,willhelpyoucalculatetides. Street’s GuidesandcompilerofImray-Iolairecharts,whichshowsthetimemeridian passage fasterandmorecomfortable.Thetablebelow,courtesyDonStreet,authorof Downloadable waypoints Up-do-date, livelyandrelevanttext Aerial andsceniccolorphotography Full Colorsketchcharts Check outthefeaturesthatmakethem “Have yougotthelatestVenezuelaguideyet?” 000 (full) 0000 2319 2226 20 2130 19 2029 18 1927 17 1825 16 1737 15 1632 14 1541 13 1453 1406 12 (new) 1320 11 1232 10 1153 9 1053 8 1000 7 0907 6 0814 5 0723 4 3 2 TIME 1 DATE February 2008 the Caribbean'sbestsellers! CHRIS DOYLE'SGUIDES For moreinformation,see“TidesandCurrents”onthebackofallImrayIolairecharts. Note: themaximumtideis3or4daysafternewandfullmoons. Water, Donexplains,generallytriestoruntowardthemoon.Thetidestartsrunning Crossing thechannelsbetweenCaribbeanislandswithafavorabletidewillmakeyour & updatesonthewebat MERIDIAN PASSAGE All theinfoyouneedifareplanningacruise! www.doyleguides.com FEBRUARY &MARCH2008 OF THEMOON 01426 (new) 1335 1246 1158 10 1110 9 1022 8 0932 7 0841 6 0748 5 0656 4 3 2 TIME 1 DATE 0427 March 2008 0342 0259 29 0217 28 0135 27 0057 26 0007 25 0000 24 2342 23 22 21 10721 0630 0539 31 0447 30 0356 29 0307 28 0221 27 0136 26 (full) 0054 25 0012 24 0000 23 2330 22 2247 21 2202 20 2123 19 2021 18 1924 17 1823 16 1721 15 1620 14 1521 13 12 11 share stories.Welovetheseguys! Just oneyearout,wehaveagroupofnewfriendswithwhomcanexploreand world ofcruising, althoughIhaven’t seenKevinBacon outhereyet. that the“sixdegrees ofseparation”appearstobeatruephenomenon, atleastinthe I’ve hadmyfaithin humankind renewedoverandagain. Andyoucan’tdeny than thatwehelpsomeone elseinthefuture. boat repairs,assistance duringadrag—nooneexpectsanything inreturnother share stories. out thetroopandwehadanewgroup of friendswithwhomwecouldexploreand now weweregoingtogetknowthem better. Folksfromtwootherboatsrounded were thechances?Turnedoutthey partofthecrowdgoingtoparade,so helped themwhentheirdinghyengine conked outinSalinas,PuertoRico.What the dock,wesawanothercouplethat looked familiarandrealizedthatwehad trying tocatchabusPhilipsburgandwatchparade.Whilewewerewaitingat Merengue where wehadbeenandtheywonderedifcrossedpathswith of daysandintroducedourselvestalkedaboutourconnection.Wetoldthem cover thattheytoowereontheirwaytoMarigot.Wesoughtthemoutafteracouple to St.Martin,weheard for friendsoftheirson on eachother’swhereabouts. short time,wecontinuedtoe-mailandreadeachother’sblogsinorderkeeptabs trawler pushedustoheadsouth,adecisionwe’veneverregretted. Georgetown, Bahamas(alsocalled“chickenharbor”forthatveryreason),palsona hurricane seasonandgettingthecoldfeetthatlotsofotherboatersget,in we persevered.Whenwerehemmingandhawingaboutwhereshouldspend ing ourspiritsandguaranteeingusthatconfidenceskillwouldonlygrowif and questionedourrighttobeouthereinthisdangerousplace,cruisersrallied,lift- they knewthey’dnevereat.Whenwehadaclosecallduring“rage”intheBahamas ed. Whenmoneywastight,boatersbroughtusleftoversandgavecannedgoods people experiencingsimilaradversitiesandadventures. We hadastrongdesiretoestablishconnectionsthatcouldonlybecreatedbetween bought aboat,Ihadgreatexpectationsofbeingdrawnintotight-knitcommunity. side myworkcircle. ping intoandoutoftheirgarages.Aftermorethanadecade,Istillknewnooneout- neighbors waswhatkindofcartheydrove.That’sallIeversawthem,quietlyslip- friends whenImovedtoArizonabutin13years,theonlythinglearnedaboutmy had gottenusedtotheanonymitythatcamewithlivingthere.Iwantedmake other boaters,somethingIhadreadsomuchabout.I’manativeNewYorkerand year now,whichleadstoalittleintrospection. we metacoupleon A typicalexampleofthishappenedtousrecently.WhileinLittleHarbour,Bahamas, over. Orhowwemeetothercruiserssimplythroughrelationshipsalreadyhave. I’ve metmorepeople inayearofsailingthanIhavemypast 42yearsonland. What’s trulywonderfulisthatnomatter what wedoforeachother—dinghytows, We werethengenerouslyinvitedtomeetupwiththemandotherboaterswho My husbandandIhavebeensailingonour37-footcatamaran, While wewereintheBritishVirginIslands,Anneon After oneyearoutontheseas,Icanhappilysaythathavenotbeendisappoint- So whenmyhusbandandIdecideditwastimeforabreakfromtheusual One reasonIwantedtobecomeacruiserwasexperiencethecamaraderieof What’s beenreallyinterestingthough,ishowoftenweseethesameboatsoverand Small ?! Welovethoseguys!Sonowwehadsomethingelseincommon. Fine Line. Appleseeds, Appleseeds IT’S A THIS CRUISINGLIFE Although wewereintheanchoragetogetheronlya by ReneePetrillo being hailedontheVHFandwerepleasedtodis- Eileen andPeter.Duringanovernightmotorsail WORLD Fine Line told ustolookout Jacumba Merengue , forone . FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 33 TOHATSU

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frangipani E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.frangipanibequia.com E-mail: [email protected] SERVICES Mechanics and Electricity Boat Maintenance Engine diagnosis Breakdown service 24/7 Haulout and hull sand blasting Equipment for rent Technical shop MARINE MECHANICS (ALL MAKES) - HAUL OUT - 24h BREAKDOWN SERVICE LEAVE YOUR BOAT IN SKILLED HANDS ABN ], also enjoy Heineken see ad on page 14 see ad on page Combined ‘Virgin Islands Race Week’ who shocked everyone with her speed as well who shocked everyone with IRC Splash for Rolex Regatta, St. Thomas, USVI Giving sailors and their families another good rea- For more information contact Judy The Notice of Race and on-line entry forms for this IRC will make a big splash in the Caribbean this John Sweeney, co-director of the International After racing, beachside social activities blend St. For information on the regatta, visit www.rolex- For more information on the US-IRC and CSA, visit Over the years, many of these regattas have Over the years, that the Budget Marine Last year was the first year to be the title sponsor Budget Marine is pleased day lies in the courses. The difference in the extra To sign up for the Budget Marine Commodore’s The BVI Spring Regatta is another huge event with is another huge Spring Regatta The BVI (April 27th Sailing Week Antigua The legendary Next Budget Marine Commodore’s Cup, St. Maarten son to put the International Rolex Regatta on their holiday calendar is the opportunity to participate in the inaugural Virgin Islands Race Week, presented by the US Virgin Islands Department of Tourism. VI Race Week bridges the International Rolex Regatta (March 28th through 30th) in St. Thomas, USVI, with the BVI Spring Regatta & Sailing Festival (March 31st through April 6th), hosted out of Tortola and Virgin Gorda, cre- ating a “ten-day holiday” that offers both intense rac- ing and quality family time. Sailors can customize their vacations by mixing and matching hard-core racing, just-for-fun racing, and leisurely cruising with family activities such as shopping and golf outings on St. Thomas. There is no additional fee for entering, and prizes will be awarded to the top overall IRC- and CSA-handicapped yachts competing. at [email protected]. year’s regatta (March 28th through 30th) are now available at www.rolexcupregatta.com. (Entries before March 6th avoid a late fee!) The website also has helpful travel information such as lodging options in St. Thomas, and passport and visa needs. year. The International Rolex Regatta joins the Presidente Cup and BVI Spring Regatta in offering IRC and CSA classes. These three events make up the southern circuit of the hotly contested 2008 US-IRC Gulf Stream Series (GSS: www.yachtscoring.com). Rolex Regatta claims, “There will be competitive rac- ing under both the IRC and CSA rules. With the addi- tion of IRC for 2008 we are encouraging a larger inter- national fleet. We’ve had positive feedback from both Stateside and European boats.” Dockage for the deeper-draft IRC boats can now be accommo- dated by the new Yacht Haven Grande in Charlotte Amalie (www.yachthavengrande.com). Sweeney added that the International Rolex Regatta caters not only to the handicapped racing yachts, but also to Beach Cats and one-design 24 feet and longer — the most popular being the home-grown IC24 fleet, which always has an impressive turnout. “The regatta’s popularity is attributable to its profes- sional race management, dependable trade winds and varied and challenging schedule of races, including a mix of round-the-buoys and round-the- islands courses that make for serious competition,” said Sweeney. Thomas Yacht Club’s island-style hospitality with the outstanding camaraderie that hundreds of partici- pants have come to expect each year. cupregatta.com or contact Co-Director Bill Canfield at [email protected] or phone (340) 775-6320. www.us-irc.org and www.caribbean-sailing.com. changed from small local races to large international small local races to large changed from in many of resulting in visitor investment sailing events, the Caribbean islands’ economies. was added to the St. Commodore’s Cup (BMCC) It was a huge success, Maarten Heineken Regatta. won by the Volvo 70 with 58 entries. It was easily all eligible to partici- of this added day and invites March 6th, the day pate this year on Thursday, Heineken before the start of the St. Maarten day of racing for the Regatta, creating an extra spinnaker classes. is for courses raced The usual format at the regatta or all the way along the coast to a destination, BMCC, the courses will around the island. During the be windward-leeward courses, always much more competitive for the hard-core racers. Cup and the Heineken Regatta visit www.heinekenregatta.com sponsorship. And the Aruba Heineken Regatta, which the Aruba Heineken Regatta, sponsorship. And to push the on for 18 years, continues has been going their regat- racing. This year, envelope in catamaran 21st. on November 13th through ta will be held AMRO crew. The rest of the fleet as the sailing abilities of her results. enjoyed tight racing with close plenty of Heineken in evidence. This year, the dates for year, the dates evidence. This Heineken in plenty of through 6th. are April 3rd this regatta as a spon- 3rd, 2008) also has Heineken through May Puerto Rico Heineken Regatta. sor, as does the Easter events, such as the Bequia Somewhat smaller Regatta [ —Continued…Regatta News 15 from page FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 34 22) KING 21) HERRING 20) ALE 18) TANG 17) DOLPHIN 15) BAND 13) NEEDLE 12) WRASSE 11) FLAT 10) CAT 9) INCH 7) GUMPUS 5) SEACAT ACROSS Crossword Solution might aswelldousethesailsandrelax. and maycausecounter-currentsinthelastweek,soyou weeks. Attemptstostimulatesomeactivitywillbeinvain be rightoffitsstern,sailingintoyourharboroflove.Enjoy. month willcontinueunderwayuntilthe19th.Romance work foryou. help untilthe18th,sofindwaystomaketheseaspects a lift.Goodrelationshipswithcrewandboatbuddieswill last weekwhenevenyourlovelifetakesadive. force relationshipswithcreworcruisingpalsbeforethe course afterthe18th. your radaron,asromanticlifewillbeonacollision cy tocomeoutwrongandthrowyouoffcourse.Butkeep of changebringsuccessinyourcreativecourse. until the18thwhenyourpatiencepaysoffandwinds some windinyoursailsuntilthe18th. take over. continue untilthe19th,whensquallsinyourlovelifewill ity andcommunicationsyoubeatagainstlastmonthwill the roughseasoflastfewweeks. until the19th.Clearingweatherwillbearealreliefafter and Threewhenlovesailsintogiveyouahand. ic, yourcreativitywillbestrong—especiallyinWeeksTwo your creativityonadownwindcourse. flames ofyourdesiresuntilthe18thwhentheywilljoin into thethirdweekwhensunwillfinallybreakthrough. weather yousloggedthroughlastmonth.Thisshould Business willstillbeinthedoldrumsforfirsttwo The vesselfullofcreativeenergyyousailedaboardlast Your senseofhumorwillassistingivingyourbusiness Business isstillwishy-washy,sotakethistimetorein- Stay offtheradio:whateveryousaywillhaveatenden- The islandofromancewillbeanunattainablelandfall Business isstillinthedoldrums,soletyourlovelifeput It’s alwayssomething!Thecontrarycurrentsincreativ- The squallsofthelastweekDecemberwillcontinue Although communicationmaybeweakandfullofstat- The steadywindsofromancewillcontinuetofanthe The monthstartswithacontinuationoftheromanticbad FEBRUARY 2008 SAGITTARIUS (23Nov-21Dec) CANCER CAPRICORN (22Dec-20Jan) QAIS(21Jan-19Feb) AQUARIUS SCORPIO (24Oct-22Nov) TAURUS (21Apr-21May) GEMINI (22May-21Jun) PISCES (20Feb-20Mar) VIRGO (24Aug-23Sep) ARIES (21Mar-20Apr) LIBRA (24Sep-23Oct) 8) SAW 6) ANGELFISH 4) CUTTLE 3) PUFFER 2) MACKEREL 1) GAR DOWN 33) CARP 32) MINNOW 31) BOATS 29) JELLY 27) ALBACORE 23) FLYING LEO (24Jul-23Aug) (22 Jun-23Jul) 30) PIPE 28) MONK 26) BLACK 25) DRUM 24) CAPT 19) TRIGGER 18) TUNA 17) DEVIL 16) EGGS 15) BARACUDA 14) DOG Carriacou But I’llspendmineinCarriacou! Life canbehardattimesit’strue, To clearthedebris,gritandsand. Good neighborscomeandlendahand The devastationleft,buthey! Us thetasktoclearaway And whenitpassed,noonewouldenvy The seaintoawild,madfrenzy, And hurricaneshavecomewhichblew The negativesarethereit’strue, As farawayasonceIthought! To convincemethatheavenisnot To nearbycays,whichneverfail And walkthebeach,ortakeasail Of energy,whyIcansplurge But, ifperhapsIfeelasurge Myself downinthehillsidepool. And ifI’mhot,whythenIcool Drink tomeontheveranda, Having awillingfriendtohand Bone idlenesswithconsciencefree. Enjoy it!Itsoundsgreattome, At vistaswhicharequiteamazing, Should choosetospendthehoursjustgazing But nothingpressing,andifyou From havinglotsofthingstodo, The sweettranquilitythat’smade There’s nothingherethatcaninvade That’s freefromworries,challenge,strife. Of living,andabsorbalife A spotwhereIcanslowthepace My islandisaspecialplace, CANUTE CALLISTE — NanHatch Island Poets To hauntsomeothersailor’sdreams. Building itsstrength,onawestwardheading, As theragingstormmovesoff, The newday’sdawnpiercesthegloom My soulisfrightenedandcold. Hell’s gatesopen,itsfuryunleashed. Hulls dancetoahypnoticsong, Anchor rodegroan,riggingwhines, Lost intheenvelopingdin. Direction ismeaningless, Adrift inamalevolentchaos, The boatseemssuspended, ’til thesurfaceseemstodisappear. Blending itwiththehorizontaltorrents, Whipping thelagoonintoafroth, The bansheegustsspringfromthedark, Bombarding theemptydecks. Rain inblindingsheets Twenty buildstothirty-five, The gatheringgloomthickens, Building toadrivingrain. Building totwentyknots, At first,abreezeanddrizzle; Out ofthedarknesstheycome; Thirty boats,theircrewsandthelagoon. As therestofuswait; Sinking intheseabeyondchannel, The sunhasretreated, Reflecting thedarkeningsky. The gray-greensurface Not aripple,notwhisper. The lagoonisflat. Memories of Felix — JohnRowland FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 35 Bela Toon Antifouling Paint Paint Brushes Epoxy Resins Sanding Paper & Discs Hand & Power Tools Houseware & Cookware

BELA ALMEIDA — Solution on page 34 This toothy fish is alternatively spelled barracuda, barracouta, picuda, becuna or ______16) Some fish are born from ____ 17) Another name for 28 Down 18) Popular food fish 19) Large colorful reef fish resembling 6 Down 24) ____ fish: abbreviation for gurnard nickname 25) Grunt fish 26) Color of 15 Across or 25 Down 28) ____fish lives in a monastery? 30) You can’t smoke this fish! FISHES ACROSS nickname for octopus 5) Caribbean itself to be caught 7) Fish that allows fish length 9) Unit for measuring has whiskers 10) A ___fish include flounder and sole 11) ____ fishes type of this 12) Blueheaded is a common 13) Shorter 30 Down fish 15) ____ or ribbon fish mahi-mahi 17) ______fish: dorado or 18) Blue reef fish 20) ___ Wife or Old Wife served marinated 21) Northern fish, popularly side bones 22) West Indian fish with no 23) A ______fish has “wings” 27) Type of 18 Down 29) A _____fish has no bones 31) Fishermen’s vehicles 32) Small bait fish pond fish 33) Large Asian ornamental DOWN 1) Fish with green bones 2) Smaller version of 22 Across 3) A ______fish inflates itself when fearful 4) Squid bone 6) Large beautiful reef dweller 8) A rare fish related to sharks and rays 14) A _____fish is a type of shark 15) 16 e-mail: [email protected] z Stainless Fasteners Stainless Fittings VHF Radios Flares & Life Jackets Snorkeling Equipment Fishing Gear 33 26 18 452 0311 ) 11 rossword 758 ( 19 Fax: C z FOR YOUR MARINE HARDWARE, AND MORE YOUR MARINE HARDWARE, FOR Johnson Hardware Ltd. Johnson Hardware Caribbean Compass 2008 21 28 2928 30 © Chain & Rope Anchors & Fenders Electric Wire Marine Hoses Bilge Pumps Lubricants & Oils 452 0299 ) ruising ruising 23 758 ( Tel: Tel: C

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Rodney Bay, St. Lucia 15 10 20 27 31 32

C parlumps marooned FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 36 whispering togetherbecauseherbedroomwasright were out.Ernie’slittlesisterNynacouldhearthem stories whentheyhadbeensenttobedandthelights bit, thetwoboyshadstartedtotelleachotherscary November. Butnow,whenthingshadsettleddowna quake thathadstrucktheCaribbeanislandsin and Erniehadforgottenallaboutthatdreadfulearth- wonderful adventurestogoon,thatatfirst,Trevor had packedhimoffforChristmasandtheNewYear. Bottom. AsaspecialChristmastreatTrevor’sparents by thewildAtlanticcoast,justupridgefromSweet Lucia, wasvisitinghiscousinErnieoverinBarbados John Cawsey,Yachtmaster,Instructor over 8DaysinBequia Shore BasedCourses There wassomuchtodoinBarbados,many Trevor, wholivesinthemountainousislandofSt. “O lors,Ernie,yoshouldaseendebodyjump!” Systems tively, establishedaframework fora Summits heldinWashington, D.C.(2003),Tokyo(2004)andBrussels (2005)respec- and itsenvironment. Participants attheFirst,SecondandThird EarthObservations it wasveryimportanttocoordinateworld-wide observationsonthestateofEarth the historyofthisgroupanditsactivities. the GrouponEarthObservations important meetingwasheld,thistimein SouthAfricawhenthemembersof scientists fromthe acknowledged. surface. Yettheimportanceofoceans tolifeonearthhasonlyrecentlybeen cover approximately71percent—that’s nearlythree-quarters—oftheearth’s DOLLY’S DEEPSECRETS PO Box30,PortElizabeth,Bequia Starts Monday3rdDec2007 In 2002,attheWorldSummitonSustainable Development,itwasrecognizedthat Last month,welookedattheNovember 2007meetinginNewZealandofthe Do yourememberhowmuchoftheearthiscoveredwithwater? Day Skipper& Yachtmaster Write Johnc/oJeanWebb or phone(784)457-3623 with yourphonenumber until 14thApril2008 . The He or text07807813123 llo Cost 1900$EC

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getting yo.” eyes closedwithcopperpennytostopdeevileyefrom der brightorangeanddelipspurple ish brightbright.Butyoshouldaseendeface!Itpow- even haveshoeonandwhitesockdeshoespol- about heneck,sotightmusfeelpressurefoso.He in thecoffinwasdresseduphisbestdarkbluesuit. took greatpainsindescribingtoErniehowtheuncle of thealtarandasusualcoffinwasopen.Trevor of theMorne.Asusualcoffinwasplacedinfront funeral ofadistantuncleinthebig,tallchapelontop and Erniewouldn’tknowanyway. the earthquakeandwhofeltwhat,butitsoundedgood didn’t knowwhetherhewasrightsayingthisabout those highhillsandcliffsaboveSweetBottom.Trevor tainous andBarbadosissoflat—well,allexceptfor more thaninBarbadosbecausehisislandissomoun- everyone inSt.Luciahadfelttheearthquakemuch big citycousin.Trevorthenboastedthatofcourse ents wouldsendhimovertoSt.Luciastaywithhis as deywheelshitdeconcrete.” hear denoiseofcarsantrucksgonthrum,thrum dat twotunnelsrunningunderitandyoushoulda Morne ishighmuchhigherdanhere.Itso city ofCastries. had toexplainthattheMornewasrightbehind the chapelwasbuiltontopofMorneandthenhe al. HehadtostartoffwithexplainingErniehow story, hehadtoexplainErnieallaboutthefuner- princess toalltheboysinBarbados! knee andtoldherhemuchpreferredhislittle father, Solly,hejustpickedherup,putonhis complained tohermother,Josephina.Andasfor er shetriedtojoinintheirgames.“It’snotfair!”Nyna wouldn’t letherneartheirroomandranoffwhenev- could joininalltheiradventures.Asitwas,they next totheirsandshewishedwereaboy

i “He havecleanwhiteshirt,stiffcollarandblacktie So, theretheywere,heandhisfatherattendingthe Ernie couldonlysighandhopethatonedayhispar- “Castries surroundbyhills!”Trevorboasted,“butde Now, beforeTrevorgottothisspookypartofthe s

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e a . Oceans by LeeKessell GEO, ernmental organizationsattendedthe2007 plan forthe tional organizations,wasformedtodeviseandthenimplementaten-yearaction POGO. Canyouguesswhattheinitials stand for? their progressandtoensureimplementationofthe commitment tofurtherwork.Theyalsoresolvedmeetagainby2010review This notedtheachievementsalreadymadebyitsmembersandconfirmedtheir all issuesthatcanbeinvestigatedthroughglobalobservationsystems. wealth andsafety.Temperaturechangesinthesea,over-fishingpollutionare adversely affecthumanbeings,aswellthosethatcanimprovehealth, lected couldbeusedtopredictchangesinweatherandseapatternsthatmay becoming availabletomonitormarinesystemsmoreclosely.Theinformationcol- to coordinateeffortsstudythemarineenvironment.Newtechnologieswere tors ofseveraloceanographyinstitutionsaroundtheworldmetanddiscussedhow the GlobalOceans mate, water,weather,ecosystems,agricultureandbiodiversity. cuss theprogressofplan.Itfocusesonnineareas:disasters,health,energy,cli- 0 WMO SCOR OOPC 10) MIA 9) IOTWS 8) IODE 7) IOC 6) IGOS 5) GOOS 4) CoML 3) 2) 1) The followingacronymsbelongtosomeof theorganizationsinpartnershipwith GUESS WHAT? At theendof One oftheorganizationsinvolvedin GEOSS GEO . Theideafor . Representativesofover70countriesandnearly50non-gov- meeting, participantsissuedtheCapeTowndeclaration. him upforgood. spooky storytotellhiscousinTrevorthatwouldshut Ernie grinnedatthethoughtthathehadacool come roundagen,yohairgonstandonend!”And yard ofChristchurch.Boy,justyowaittillnight coffins flungallrounddevaultupdereinchurch- shoulder andwhispered:“Thatstoryworsedande thud, ErnielentovertoTrevor,touchedhimonthe their bedsandonceUncleSolly’sdoorclosedwitha her moonlitroom.TrevorandErnieslunkdownin hall andlittlesisterNynawasallearsbigeyesin Josephina washuffingintheirbedroomdownthe er wordorhewouldsendTrevorbackhome.Aunt had thrownopenthedoorandtoldthemnotanoth- had turnedtoashoutandthenextthingUncleSolly drive home.” proper. Thenheholdmehandandwefindcar shoes, pulldenecktietightandmakeallneat coffin, pullhesuitproper,straightendelegs,wipe den littleandmefadderstraightenheunclein pon deLordtoprotectuspoorsinners.Moreshaking fadder holddatbodydownwithallhestrength,calling and crashoverIdoesstandfrightensome de candles,bookandpewsdoesdanceround crash goesalldetingonaltar,cross,chalice, vant onhigh.’Therebesecondbigrumbleand ‘Oh Lord,keepdisbrotherfromhellfire.Takeyoser- force itbackwherebelongandheprayalldetime, like allderest.Butmefaddergrabholdbodyand start jumpingup,tryingtogetoutdecoffinandrun chapel wallsswayandbenddendebodydoes be dehouseofLord!Godprotectwe!’ grab meshouldaandshout,‘Whyyoudoesrun?Dis an chilerunoutdechapel.Igofollowbutmefadder Next tingshakingbeworseandeverymananwoman strong, strong!Hefightlikecrazytostopweburyhe!’ to shake!‘Oh,’defellanextweshout,‘dismanbe THE END By thistime,Trevorwassoexcitedthathiswhisper “And denbigrumbleandshakingsobadde “We alllookserious,seriousandendechapelbegin “Ooh, Trevor,wishIdoesbeenthere!” Answers onpage 47 POGO GEO was firstraisedin1999whenthedirec- is the GEO conference inCapeTowntodis- Partnership forObservationof GEOSS plan. FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 37 Snorkeling & Diving Gear Courtesy Flags Collectable Knives SINCE 1950 BEQUIA BEQUIA YACHTSPEOPLE WEST INDIES FRONT STREET FRONT and ask for Stan or Miguel! SERVING FISHERMEN AND SERVING FISHERMEN Leaders Fresh Bait Rigged & Unrigged Foul Weather Gear DUTY FREE at any of these locations (advertisers in this issue Visit us for all your needs St. Vincent & The Grenadines EMAIL: [email protected] Big Blue Building Wire, Floats, Nets, Twines, Ropes Wire, Floats, Nets, Twines, Readers! When in Bequia, pick up your free monthly copy of Readers! When in Bequia, pick up your free monthly VHF 68; Telephone 784-457-3361 LULLEY‘S ): PICK UP! TEL: (784) 458-3420 FAX: (784) 458-3797 TEL: (784) 458-3420 bold Compass TACKLE SHOP TACKLE Bequia Bookshop Bequia Post Office Bequia Tourism Assn. Dawn’s Beach Café De Reef Restaurant Doris Fresh Food Frangipani Hotel Friendship Rose Office Grenadine Sails GYE Lulley’s Tackle Mac’s Pizzeria Max Marine PortHole Restaurant Salty Dog Restaurant Tradewinds Cruise Club W&W Supermarket Wallace & Co. Caribbean Compass The Yacht Club, Bequia Marina, Port Elizabeth, Bequia, The Yacht Club, Bequia Marina, Port Elizabeth, Rods & Reels Anglers Lures FISHING & DIVING GEAR & DIVING FISHING Penn & Diawa Mustad Hooks Open Monday to Saturday 8:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. Open Monday to Saturday 8:00 a.m. Water, Diesel, Ice, Bottled Water and Dockage available. Water, Diesel, Ice, Bottled Water and Dockage Ahoy, YOUR #1 CHOICE IN FISHING GEAR YOUR #1 CHOICE Our stock, quality, price, know-how and fishing experience is unsurpassed Our stock, quality, price, know-how Look for the Bequia Marina the appear in For . . In . Stoute Away To and a Silver Would You : Giant African Would You Please Giant African Land The Fear Factor . Stoute has been suc- needs REPRESENTATIVE June Stoute describes her- At last year’s National Away to Bequia December 2006 she moved front stage with her own work, an illustrated chil- dren’s book, Please Fetch Me A Pail? this she teamed up with her daughter, Jehanne Silva- Freimane, who illustrated the story. This was followed in April 2007 by Land Snails + Snail Facts self as a business executive by day and a creative writer, publisher and photographer after hours. She wet her feet in the book industry in 2000 by publishing her husband’s book, Independence Festival of Creative Arts (NIFCA) in Bridgetown, Barbados, Stoute received a Bronze Award for Fetch Me A Pail? Award for Snails + Snail Facts believes she has the ingredi- ents for a Gold in Bequia cessful in several local liter- ary competitions over the , and with Carriacou-based Jerry Stewart , and with Carriacou-based stainless steel SAILS & CANVAS

. June has been shore crew while Dick, a familiar . June has been shore crew frames at competitive prices Bruggadung II

and BEQUIA Shangri-La CUSTOM-MADE . is the story of young Roger’s first inter-island crossing — a trip is the story of young Roger’s first inter-island crossing , written by June Stoute, illustrated by Jehanne Silva-Freimane. © Stoute, illustrated by Jehanne , written by June

GRENADINES GRENADINES a Family Sail a Family

including Bloody Mary BIMINI & DODGER

Children’s Tale of Tale Children’s SAILS & CANVAS Away to Bequia her husband, to Bequia. She and June Stoute is no stranger Barbadian writer Bequian book reviewer Cherian Gordon writes about Away To Bequia yesteryear to this present There have been many great storybooks written from it is a family adventure The most amazing thing about the story, though, is that Available at bookstores or from the author at [email protected]. Come in and see us for all your e-mail: [email protected] VHF Ch16/68 Tel (784) 457-3507 / 457-3527 (evenings) (northern side of Admiralty Bay) Located opposite G.Y.E. face on the racing circuit, has crewed with fellow Bajan sailor Andrew Burke on has crewed with fellow Bajan sailor Andrew Burke face on the racing circuit, Nefertiti, Bruggadung I amateur racing sailor Dick Stoute, have been cruising the Grenadines for many amateur racing sailor Dick years on their yacht, 2007. Published by Oraef Inc. Full color. ISBN 976 8215 86 0. by Oraef Inc. Full color. 2007. Published on his which turns into a voyage of discovery and wonder when his grandfather sets a which turns into a voyage of discovery and wonder course towards the setting sun. day. Of the many I have read, I must say that this one isn’t just great — it’s amaz- day. Of the many I have read, I must say that this one pictures, everything blends ing. From its beautifully written words to its vibrant in the reader’s mind. You can uniquely to form a vast image of the whole adventure the story. The eccentric flow see, feel, hear and even smell all the exotic textures in Caribbean flavor, when every of rhythm and rhyme cultivates a cascade of poetic word is read. writer depicts its beauty as and though today such a thing is dwindling rapidly, this June Stoute for basing this though it happens every day. As a true Bequian, I salute and I would recommend that adventure as a family expedition to my blessed home it be read by all children. years and her poetry has been published in the University of the West Indies Cave years and her poetry has been published in the University Hill Literary Annual. FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 38 titled “GlobalWarning”,whichhasnotyetbeenshowntothepublic. environment. Xavieriscurrentlycompletinghisthirdseriesofenvironmentalwork commercial purposes,thefinalityofearth’sresources,andpreciousnessour carat goldrepresentingthemillionsoftreesthathavebeengroundintodustfor cled cardboardandendsofcommercialpaint,embeddedwithshards24- “Environmental Fragile”,whichinvolvedconceptualworksmadeentirelyfromrecy- through thepresent.ItalsofeaturesXavier’ssecondenvironmentalseries, ing andcolorfuldepictionsofthePitons,whicharefeaturedonbook’scover. watercolours andoilsinspiredbythedynamicCaribbeanweatherforhisstrik- ical arena. issues. Now,20yearslater,Xavier’sconcernsareforefrontintheinternationalpolit- 978-4050-8649-3. Macmillan CaibbeanArtCollection.Hardcover,208pages,fullcolorthroughout.ISBN Available atbookstoresorwww.amazon.co.uk. The bookoffersaninclusivelookatXavier’smostsignificantworkfromthe1960s In additiontohisenvironmentalwork,Xavierisesteemedwidelyforabstract Llewellyn Xavier:HisLifeandWork, St. Lucia’sEnvironmentalArtist series editorEdwardLucie-Smith, ness aboutdireecological this workwouldraiseaware- ing abroad,theartisthoped the islandin1987afterliv- discovered uponreturningto threats onSt.Luciathathe Inspired byimpending the Earth’sEnvironment”. Council forRestorationof masterpiece series“Global natural worldthroughhis ongoing destructionofthe made statementsaboutthe creative journey. look attheartist’s40-year and providesanin-depth tor EdwardLucie-Smith, both Xavierandseriesedi- The bookisnarratedby series onCaribbeanartists. Caribbean aspartofits published byMacmillan work byXavierhasbeen the environment. race, sex,spirituality,and has exploredsuchissuesas strong conceptualworkthat artist, knownworldwidefor Lucia’s pre-eminentvisual Twenty yearsago,Xavier A newretrospectiveof Llewellyn XavierisSt. or visitwww.guadeloupe-marine.info. small enoughtocarryashore. numbers andradiofrequenciescouldbepulledoutpostedaboard.Thebookis the usefulisland,townandmarinamaps.Aseparatepagelistingemergencyphone who itis! sports sector;ifyouspotoneofthesefacesonthebeachordock,you’llknow color throughout.Free. by ClubTranscaraibesAssociation,StéphaneLegendre.Paperback,163pages,full FROM GUADELOUPE! Guadeloupe MarineInfo2008—theNauticalDirectory. Best ofall,it’sfree.PickupacopyinGuadeloupe Color photos,especiallythoseintheFloraandFaunachapter,areaplus,as DIRECT(ORY) Guadeloupe’s sailingandwater- introducing keypersonalitiesin of theisland’snauticalevents. sioning. Thereisalsoacalendar weather forecastsandprovi- times ontheRivièreSalée, marina services,bridgeopening ing inandout,petsonboard, ers willbethesectionsonclear- are colorcodedforeasyreference. The chaptersintheprintversion Directory (organizedbytrade). Nautical Informationanda Information, FloraandFauna, Information, Practical sion forquickorientation. used foreachintheprintver- English), withadifferentfont bi-lingual (Frenchand Guadeloupe. Bothversionsare about thearchipelagoof other watersportsenthusiasts information forsailorsand ers inoneplaceawealthof marine.info) versions—gath- line (www.guadeloupe- available inbothprintandon- well-researched reference— a touristguide,thishandyand A uniquefeatureisasection Of particularinteresttocruis- There arefivechapters:General Neither acruisingguidenor Edited FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 39

 Navigating the good life Protected Harbor Nightlife Downtown Restaurant, Bar & Grille Beach Depth Up to 25 Feet at Face Dock at Face Depth Up to 25 Feet Foot Air Market 1 Minute by Open 24 Hour Security Gated Marina       , by Julia Bartlett, ©2004, 257 pages. ISBN 978- ©2004, 257 pages. ISBN , by Julia Bartlett, Introducing the NEW Introducing PORT ANTONIO, PORT JAMAICA

Out of the Water Storage Up to 95 Feet Storage Water Out of the  Full Service Marina Travel-lift 100 Ton Sheds Paint Duty Free Zone in Marina Duty Free 24 Hour Fuel Specialists Engine and Part PROTECT YOUR INVESTMENT ON INVESTMENT YOUR PROTECT       Close to a Classic a to Close BOOK REVIEW BY BOB BERLINGHOF BY BOB REVIEW BOOK Day in Paradise Just Another islands in the and her travels between plucky solo sailor, Morgane, This tale of a on St. called St. Bertha, was modeled which she survives, wisely The island on are generally well-drawn. Morgane’s boyfriend, Jimbo, The supporting characters the bartender, Yves, the escaped convict, and Of her local characters, Ronnie, to Morgane’s, concerning her English friend Victoria. There is also a parallel story quite good, but its aftermath is even better, told from The hurricane description is is upstaged by a jarring Unfortunately, the realistic and bleak tone of this novel by local prejudice, is not The side story of Faye, an albino who feels victimized book, although I can’t help Although uneven in tone, I would still recommend this This book is available from www.lulu.com or www.amazon.com. THE WATER THIS HURRICANE SEASON THIS HURRICANE WATER THE 1-4303-2709-7 literature before come across in sailing something I have never Caribbean contains of a tragic hurricane. harrowing account of the aftermath — a realistic, At the time, Luis over a decade ago. damage done to it by Hurricane Martin and the Bartlett’s glossed over by the news media. of the tragedy were largely the dimensions killed uncount- and on land (a mudslide lives lost, both at sea account of countless in chaos on collapsed), shows a country when the hill they lived ed illegal immigrants but it is one of the best features of this novel. and distress. It is not pretty, each have their own boats, are particularly vivid. The and their sidekick, Terry, who sparkles with wit and authenticity. This reader feels like dialogue between these three them. Morgane’s cat, Nelson, is also featured with inter- he has tipped a few beers with please cat lovers, but I found this a little too cute. nal monologues, which should the death of her friend, are well-portrayed. For comic Isabel, a woman crushed by driver and an eccentric self-taught chiropractor. This relief there is a nutty taxi a hurricane, but there is quite a bit of humour book is chiefly about surviving stuffed in between the devastations. that Morgane fled “a whining husband and whining We are told in the first chapter sailor. Victoria, a cog in the wheel of the English penal kids” to become a self-reliant a mundane job, and a family that doesn’t appreciate system, is seeking to escape to hurricane alters her travel plans and causes her her, by visiting Morgane. The by forcing her to “wing it.” have the adventure of her life who manages to get ashore only to be buried under the points of view of Morgane, prisoner who is searching for the remnants of his the mud, and Yves, an escaped and police who are shooting at looters. family while dodging the soldiers the end of this book Hollywood ending. There are three or four miracles towards everybody with an “all’s well which indicate that Ms. Bartlett was hoping to please trivializes the horror of what that ends well” smiley-face attitude. This somewhat has come before by undercutting the novel’s serious tone. the characters. Morgane’s enough to balance the contrived happy ending of all the local dialect fails to ring brush with a drug baron is particularly weak. Some of true, but that is a minor complaint. author set out to write a but wonder what a classic it could have been had the ending. funny and bleak Caribbean novel without the miraculous Errol Flynn MarinaErrol & Boatyard Flynn Channel 16 nmarina.com • VHF Contact John Louis • 876-715-6044 • 876-873-4412 Contact John e-mail: info@errolflyn The only 100-ton travel lift in this part of the lift in this part only 100-ton travel The up to 95' in length. Caribbean, servicing yachts www.errolflynnmarina.com FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 40 For Reservations: For Reservations: seasonal specialtiesandfreshbakedgoods. MAC’S PIZZERIA JONAS BROWNE &HUBBARD(G’da.)Ltd. Hubbard’s The FoodFairhasitalland alotmore. or afineselectionofliquorandwine, or fruits,toiletries,householdgoods, products, meat,freshvegetables Whether it’scannedgoods,dairy conveniently locatedsupermarkets. best pricesinGrenadaatourtwo on thewidestselectionand Stock Up Situated in Admiralty Bay, Bequiabetween In additiontoourfamouspizzaweoffer Open dailyfrom11:00am to10:00pm. the FrangipaniandPlantationHouse. VHF Ch68orTel: (784)4583474 Tel: (473)444-4573 until 7:00pm Friday &Saturday 9 amto5:30pm Monday -Thursday Grand Anse: Tel: (473)440-2588 1:00 pm Saturday until Friday until8:45pm 8 amto5:30pm Monday -Thursday The Carenage: tors. Divertingenoughpowertochargethevideobat- was thefirstpriorityforwindandwatergenera- short supplyon make greengunge.’However,electricityitselfwasin Antigua, hesaid:‘Electricity,copperandsaltwater survive thethree-monthpassagefromIrelandto “When DonsawtheJVCequipmentwehopedwould they were23yearsago. are seamanshiptipsthatjustasvalidtoday and Don’svoice-overexplainsthem.Alsothroughout (such as“poorman’stwinheadsails”)usedonthetrip, trim. Gavin’sclearlinedrawingsshowthevariousrigs greatly appreciated,especiallythoseconcerningsail tar, addstotheoverallaestheticappeal. ground musicbyCraigWrigley,mostlyacousticgui- which capturethemoment,andoriginalback- found nowherebutatsea.Gavinhasaneyeforshots of exhilarationandtranscendentnaturalbeauty its sidetracksandslowspots,therearealsomoments favorite foods.But,asinbluewatervoyaging,withall interest ishappeningandyou’verunoutofyour as livingthroughalongvoyagewhennothingmuchof months, remember)occasionallygetsjustastedious Day One,Two,Three,Four…(three small boat.Alittletoorealsometimes—theformatof sense ofwhatit’sliketodoalongoceanpassageon explorers thantourists.” end ofthetrip,arrivinginAntigua,“Wefeltmorelike regularly exercisedbilgepumps.)AsGavinsaidatthe awaited landfall. and patientskipper,theconflictingemotionsofalong- faction oflearningseamanshipfromanexperienced phins speedeffortlesslyinyourbowwave,thesatis- sunrise atseaafteralongnightwatch,watchingdol- about sailingseemeternal:thejoyofafair-weather 80-year-old, enginelesswoodenboat.Butsomethings like today—especiallyifyouweredoingitaboardan was morelikeithadbeenacenturybeforethanis 120 minutes,color. Marketing. DistributedbyBennettMediaCorporation. directed byGavinShaw,©ShawMarine may havegottenrusty,but sinking outfromunderyou”.(Nofear:thetinsoffood bathtubs”, remarkingthatoften“shefeelslikeshe’s ern crafthisskipperreferstoas“two-stringplastic that turns handsteering,bytiller,alltheway.Gavinadds With noself-steeringgeareither,thecrewoffivetook sailed inandoutofeverywhereaswehadnoengine.” Verde islands,andverylittleoftheCanaries.We knew nothingofPortoSanto,theSalvageorCape Therewerenocruisingguides:we check timesignals. Brooks andGatehouseRDF,asextantradioto Salvage, CanaryandCapeVerdeislandgroups. the islandsofPortoSantoandMadeira, Ireland toEnglishHarbour,Antigua,viaVigo,Spain, Street aboardthe44-foot three-month sabbaticaltosail5,000mileswithDon British advertisingexecutiveGavinShaw,whotooka ★ Of themakingoforiginalvideo,Gavinwrites: The educationalcomponentsofthisDVDwillbe The DVDhasavery“youarethere”feel,givingreal In manywayssailingacrosstheAtlanticin1985 Transatlantic withStreet. Street says,“Wehadnoelectronicnavigation,onlya This DVDisare-releaseofthe1986videomadeby Come andfindusamongstthetrees! Iolaire PLEASE RESERVE! Monday toSaturday Candelight Dinners NEVER CHANGE was aweebitwettertosailthanthemod- Tel: nLwrBy Bequia in Lower Bay, Iolaire ( SOME THINGS 784 and coolingtheskipper’sbeer ) 458-3758 Iolaire Iolaire DVD. Producedand had enormousand from Glandore, anchor hitthebottominEnglishHarbour.” tured 13hoursbythetimeDon’sHerreshoffbower kept workingallthewayandhadsuccessfullycap- tic hood.Withthisregimethecameraandrecorder from sprayandrainbyastrongbutlightweightplas- bread making.Ondeck,thecamerawasprotected tals whichweredriedintheovenaftermorning’s in anairtightcasewithakilogramofdesiccatingcrys- working intheTrades.Wekeptfilmingequipment pumped [fromthebilge]everydaywhen dear oldboat.In’85,athousandgallonswerehand gunge wasthebiggestthreattocameraonDon’s teries wasonechallenge.However,deathbygreen Armchair Sailor. timeless trip. and afewsailingbuddiestakethishistoricyet with afavoritebeverageortwo,bigbowlofpopcorn mainsheet. It’sworthtaking120minutestosettlein as sailingitselfcansometimesbe.Justeaseyour per hourmightfindthisDVD’space—well,asslow onds isnowa“long”shot)anddozencarcrashes film’s currentfadforquick,choppycuts(threesec- splashes onthecoverofourcopy! The reviewerapologizesfortheauthenticsaltwater Many viewerstoday,accustomedtotelevisionand Available fromwww.bennettmarine.comand Sailing doesn’tloseitsmagic. PORTHOLE RESTAURANT &BAR A friendlyatmospherewhere youcansitandmeetpeople. Noelina &Lennox Taylorwelcomeyou! & ShorelineMini-Market Admiralty Bay,Bequia We servebreakfast, lunch anddinner Phone (784)458-3458 VHF CH68 Iolaire was FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 41 , PM - 6 AM , Lunch is served 11:00 There is nothing general about Basil’s Call 784-488-8407 AM Basil’s Bar in Mustique was named one of the Mustique Imagine, decorating your home with Antiques from Bali Call 784-457-2713 Fabrics as bright as the sea and as light as air... perfect for as bright as the sea and as light as air... Fabrics Basil’s Bar and efficiently arranged. In St Vincent - near the port of Kingstown is an 18th century cob- In St Vincent WE SHIP AROUND THE WORLD! the island. www.basilsbar.com [email protected] www.basilsbar.com Visit Basil’s in Mustique or St. Vincent Basil’s in Mustique Visit Dinner at 7:30 until late. Come to Basil’s for Cocktails anytime and plan to attend the Dinner at 7:30 until late. Come to Basil’s for Cocktails anytime BBQ. Call 784-488-8350 or VHF 68. night Jump up and Wednesday BOUTIQUE BASIL’S women, men and children, For island evening and playful day wear. Elegant island joy. home. Basil’s Boutique also offers silver and gemstone jewelry. to take plus lots of T-shirts STORE: GENERAL GREAT BASIL’S wines, cheeses from Europe, with fine French Great General Store - stocked 784-488-8407 Call foods in Paradise. sauces and gourmet jams. Imported cigars. Fine FOREVER: ACROSS has and India - contemporary pieces and fabulous lighting. Across Forever a magnificent collection of furniture and home accessories from Asia. Shipping is easily Visitors to St Vincent are invited to: to St Vincent Visitors BAR: BASIL’S Air conditioned, and Bar. blestone building where you may find Basil’s Restaurant you will enjoy cocktails most delightful, the staff most welcoming and the meals, some of the best on Visitors to Mustique are invited to: to Mustique are Visitors BAR AND RESTAURANT: BASIL’S World’s Ten Best Bars in 1987 by Newsweek magazine and today lives up to that tradi- Ten World’s Bar in Mustique is all that and more renovated the new face of Basil’s tion. Recently and breakfasts. lunches Terrific offering the freshest seafood, steaks and pastas for dinner. catch up on the web. Now equipped with WIFI you can enjoy sunset cocktails and January 23 - February Basil’s Bar is home and originator of the Mustique Blues Festival, 6, 2008. Breakfast service begins at 8:00

, which

New York Times New York

by Chris Doyle

BREAD BREAD

NO-KNEAD ON BOARD orget kneading and fussing, new recipes have been developed for really easy been developed recipes have fussing, new and orget kneading bread making. Compared with the old way, it is like GPS compared to celes- like GPS compared old way, it is with the Compared bread making. fol- The and single-handers. dummies for galley It’s perfect tial navigation.

Start this bread in the evening. Mix the dry ingredients well in the bowl. Add the Start this bread in the evening. Mix the dry ingredients Next morning, dust a cutting board with cornmeal; scrape the ingredients out of After one and half hours, begin getting the oven and pot ready. Put your saucepan After half an hour of pre-heating, remove the saucepan or dish and take the cover I suggest making this bread for the first time with white flour. After that, experi- Boat ovens can present certain problems. If you find the bread burns at the back You may find you want to adjust the amount of liquid in this recipe just a little.

You need the following equipment: You need the following equipment: • An oven with a well-fitting lid that fits in the oven (about • A pottery dish or metal saucepan • A largish cutting board • A large clean tea towel four and one-half cups • A bowl large enough to mix of plastic, which you can • A plastic bag, Caribbean plastic bathing hat, or a bit it is not as easy) • A rubber spatula (you can get away with a spoon, but is a problem, you can get • Some cornmeal to stop things sticking (if cornmeal have the gear. That is most of the work right there: making sure you Next, the ingredients: oven, not a boat oven) 2 1/2 Cups of white baking flour (use 3 if you have a house 1/4 teaspoon of dried instant yeast 2 teaspoons of salt 1 1/2 for a house oven) Half as much water as flour (1 1/4 Cups for a boat oven, F Let the dough rest overnight, bake the next morning, and you’ll have a fresh, crusty Let the dough rest overnight, bake the next morning, and peasant loaf for lunch or supper water, mix thoroughly. Put the plastic over the bowl and seal it with a rubber band. water, mix thoroughly. Put the plastic over the bowl and Leave overnight. (This standing time is what makes no-kneading possible, so don’t shortcut it.) the bowl onto the cutting board with the rubber spatula (or whatever). Gently flop it over, being sure there is still enough cornmeal beneath the dough. (This flopping over gets you cornmeal on top of the bread so the tea towel does not stick). Cover loosely with a clean tea towel and leave for two hours. or baking dish with the lid on in the oven. Turn it on and set to 450°F. If you have a boat oven with no temperature gauge on it, put it on the very highest setting. off. Flop the bread mix into the saucepan or dish, put the lid back on, and put it in the oven. Bake at 450°F for half an hour, then remove the lid, and bake for anoth- er quarter of an hour. You are now finished except for removing the bread from the oven and turning it out onto a board. ment with multigrain, whole wheat, or whatever. You can also add half a cup of oil- cured pitted olives cut in two to make an excellent olive bread. or bottom, the flame is probably too close to the pan. The fix is to cover the shelf with cheap pottery tiles. You will need to scrape the bread mixture onto the cutting board, but you should be able to use your hands to flop the bread over, once it has a little cornmeal on the outside. If you find it way too wet for this, sprinkle a little cornmeal on top to pro- tect the towel and then scrape the mixture into the pot with a spoon (the bread will still be fine), but next time try just a tad less water. It should not be too dry, how- ever, as the moisture in this method is essential to the rising. 8 inches diameter and 3 1/2 inches high) 8 inches diameter and 3 1/2 Unless you get the put over the top of the bowl to stop any moisture escaping. band to hold it tightly over Caribbean bathing hat, you will also need a rubber the bowl is far better) away with flour, but the result will be messier, cornmeal lowing recipe is adapted from Mark Bittman’s article in the Bittman’s article from Mark recipe is adapted lowing Street City’s Sullivan of New York Lahey, owner bread of Jim the no-knead described also with comments the mess, and to minimize modified here It has been Bakery. like sour-dough bread you get looks much work with a boat oven. The on making it a wonderful crust. bread and has FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 42 Dinghy Accessories * Waterproofing * Aqua Signal*Imray lolaire Charts Apelco *Harken *Sta-lok316SS Rigging*Cordage * West System*Shields Weblon *Clear Vinyl *Canvaswork Supplies*MarincoGarminUniden Boatlife *Starbrite *CampZincsMarinePadlocks * OrionSunbrella Racor * Wix *Shurflo* Johnson Pumps*3-MFlags *Perko *JabscoGroco Seachoice *Marpac Teleflex * Tempo *RitchieBreeze * Whale * Ancor Marlin BottomPaint *DelcoUnderwaterMetalKitZ-SparCetolMercury NEW ICUT NATGAABTEL ANDCARIBEDINGHYS DISCOUNTS ON ARTIGIANA BATTELLI CORNER OFMIRANDA &GUARAGUAO, -al [email protected] Standby E-mail: VHF Channel 72 Chicken Wings,ConchFritters,etc.DinnerMenuwillbeavailablefromDec07 EEHN:(8 21 6-84 FX (58)(281)265-2448 FAX: (58)(281)265-3844 TELEPHONE: Full CableTV•AirConditioningSportsbarPoolTable Tel: (784)4573443 A Menu: Burgers,FlyingFish,PhillySteakSandwiches,Fajitas,Salads, T XANADUMARINE: Bequia -RestaurantGreatCocktails&Fun BEQUIA, PortElizabeth,AdmiraltyBay Kitchen openMondaytoSaturday10am-10pm Bar opendailyuntil…Sunday6pm-2am AMER • e-mail: [email protected] ON ABC 3 THE CRUISING BY OUREXPERIENCEDSTAFF • PERSONALIZEDATTENTION MAINTENANCE PRODUCTS CHANDLERY • REPLACEMENTPARTS& SINCE 1990 TIN FREE SAILOR’S ANTIFOULING P PUERTO LACRUZ,VENEZUELA AINT an acridjuicethatcanirritatetheskin.Scrubyamsbeforecooking. the vegetablehasbeencooked.Wearglovesifpeelingrawyams,sincetheysecrete nel, onions,andmushroomsareadeliciouscombination. chunks canbeaddedtostirfryorapanofroastedvegetables.Roastedyams,fen- made intoatypeofpotatosaladbymixingitwithmayonnaise,onionandcelery.Yam a wonderfuladditiontomanysoups,especiallyfishbroth.Coldboiledyamcanbe dishes. Yamscanbefinelyslicedintochipsorsimplybakedintheirskins.are just mashedwithplentyofbutterandseasonedtocomplementmeat,chickenorfish boiled thenmashedwithmilk,butterandcheesetomakeyampie.Oryamscanbe ideal conditions,theywillonlykeepforaweek.Usebeforegetsoft. well-ventilated place.Inacool,dryplacethey’llkeepforfewweeks,butinlessthan the skinwithafingernail.Thefleshshouldbecrispandjuicy.Storeyamsincool, size, withnosoftshrunkenspots,cracks,ormold.Pickthebestbyprickingthrough and waistline. ly and,becauseyamsarehighinfiber,fillyouupwithoutfillingoutyourhips South America. crop. TheyamremainsastaplefoodinmanyoftheCaribbeanislands,Africa,and as yam,dasheenandcassavacouldbegrowninconspicuouslywiththesugarcane could surviveextremedryspellsandthewrathoftropicalstorms.Also,rootssuch workers wasscarce.Groundfoodareliablesourceofnutrition,sincetheseroots “ground food”.Thistermcamefromthesugarplantationdayswhenfoodfor “ground provisions”or ly, allrootcropsarecalled ing Caribbean,traditional- eat.” IntheEnglish-speak- word “nyami,”meaning“to are derivedfromanAfrican word “ñame,”bothofwhich “inhame” ortheSpanish the Portugueseword 200 pounds! up tosevenfeetandweigh purple flesh.Theycangrow and withwhite,yellow,or black, whiteorpinkskin, eties ofyams,withbrown, have asmoothredskin. Convolvulacae Morning Glory,or other hand,belongtothe and itsskinisroughscaly,almostlikeatree’sbark.Sweetpotatoes,onthe usually burieddeepanddifficulttodigup.Theedibletuberislongcylindrical Yams areperennialvineswithshinyheart-shapedleavesandundergroundtubers, Dioscoreaceae same thing.Theydon’tevenbelongtothefamily.Realyams Americans usethenamesinterchangeably.Butyamsandsweetpotatoesarenot ta, otoe,ñame,ñampi,yucca,malangaandyautia. Eastern Caribbean;onthewesternsideofCaribbeanyou’llhearboniata,bata- nia, eddos,yam,sweetpotatoanddasheenarethemostfamiliarnamesin with adollopofsourcream. insides. Discardskin. oven andsplityaminhalf.Holdinghalves withapotholder,usespoontoscoopout side untilgolden.Servewithmaplesyrup. into panandcookuntiledgesaredrycenterhasbubbles.Turnother peaks form,thenfoldintobatter. butter, andspices.Stiruntilallingredientsaremoistened.Beateggwhites stiff egg yolksandaddthemtotheflourmixture.Addmilk,beer,bourbon,mashedyams, THE YUMMYYAM It isnotadvisabletoeatrawyam.Inanycase,theskinsaredifficultpeeluntil Yams tastemorelikeanIdahopotatothananyothertropicaltuber.canbe When buyingyamsatthemarket,lookforsolid,hardrootswhichareheavytheir The nameyamcamefrom There arenearly200vari- There isoftenconfusionbetween“sweetpotatoes”and“yams”;manyNorth The arrayofrootvegetablesinCaribbeanmarketscanbeconfusing.Cassava,tan- Pinch salt 1 quartwater 2 smallyams Scotchie Yams Makes oneserving.Multiplyingredients formoreservings. Heap onaplateandspreadwithbutter thensprinkleongarlicsalttotaste.Top Bake yamat400°Ffor45to60minutes oruntilyamisfork-tender.Removefrom 3 Tablespoonssourcream Garlic salt 2 Tablespoonsbutter 1 smallyam Baked GarlicYam Heat slightlyoiledskilletorgriddleovermedium-highheat.Pour1/4Cupbatter In asmallmixingbowl,sifttogethertheflour,bakingpowder,andsalt.Beat Maple syrup Cooking oil Pinch each,groundcardamomandginger 2 Tablespoonsbutter,melted 1 Cupyams,boiledandmashed 2 Tablespoonsbourbon 1/2 Cupbeer 1/2 Cupmilk 3 eggs,separated 1/2 teaspoonsalt 1 Tablespoonbakingpowder 1 1/2Cupsflour Bourbon andBeerYamcakes Yams’ sugarsandcomplexcarbohydratesareabsorbedintothebloodstreamslow- , family,and family withhundredsofediblevarieties—andnotverymanyrecipes. Recipes fromMaryHeckrotte —Continued onnextpage —Continued FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 43 Bequia Special 8-grain bread Fresh Croissants daily in VHF 68 Fine Wines Tel (784) 458-3625 Tel Fax (784) 457-3134 and other Gourmet Foods Imported Cheeses & Pastas

[email protected] YACHT PROVISIONING Daily Fresh Herbs & Produce 4 to 6 nice-sized mangos, ripe to overripe to overripe ripe mangos, 6 nice-sized 4 to brown sugar 1/2 Cup flour baker’s 3 Tablespoons nutmeg grated 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1 teaspoon or margarine butter 2 Tablespoons or almonds 1/2 Cup peanuts marshmallows (optional) 1 Cup miniature mangoes. chop yams. Peel and slice Boil, peel and nutmeg, mix together sugar, flour, In a large bowl, mixed oven-proof dish, arrange In a two-quart Simple Yam Soup 3 pounds yams (prefer red for color) 2 medium-size sweet peppers 5 Cups chicken broth minced (optional) 1/2 hot pepper, seeded and 1/2 red or yellow onion, chopped 2 cloves garlic, minced bene 2 Tablespoons minced chadon Salt and seasoning to taste all ingredients in a Peel and slice yams. Combine Stuffed Yams each) 3 pounds yams (about a pound 1 pound medium shrimp 2 Tablespoons butter or margarine chopped 1 medium onion, peeled and 4 chives 2 cloves garlic, minced 1/2 Cup milk salt and spice to taste Peel yams and cut in half lengthwise. Boil in salted Boil, peel and de-vein shrimp In butter, sauté onion, chives, shrimp, and gar- Yam Fritters 2 pounds yams 1 Cup flour 1/2 Cup grated cheddar cheese 3 eggs, beaten 1 medium onion, grated 1 clove garlic, minced Salt and seasoning to taste Oil for frying Peel and chop yams. Boil yam pieces until tender. In a large bowl, mash yams, adding the cooking liq- In a frying pan or wok, place three inches of oil and and cinnamon. Add butter and nuts and mix until Add butter and nuts and and cinnamon. to crumble. mixture starts mixture, pieces. Cover with sugar yam and mango at 350°F for if used, and bake and marshmallows 35 minutes. heat until vegetables large pot and simmer on medium are tender. water, careful to avoid breaking. Scoop out center of yam halves so that only an inch of the shell remains. Mash the scooped-out yam. lic. Mix in the mashed yam and the milk. Season to taste. Fill yam hollows with mixture and broil until browned. Drain the liquid but retain about a half-cup. uid until the yams are almost creamy. Add flour, cheese, eggs, onion, garlic and seasonings. heat to high. Carefully place yam mixture by the spoonful into hot oil and fry for three to four minutes until golden brown. New location at former Le Petit Jardin sprechen Deutsch Wir Credit Cards welcome! Recipes from Shirley Hall Shirley from Recipes Healthy Yammy Chips Healthy yams 2 pounds juice lemon 2 Tablespoons oil canola 3 Tablespoons to taste Salt and seasoning in cold thinly as possible. Rinse slices Slice yams as and Yams Gingered Chicken 1 pound yams 2 Tablespoons olive oil, divided 1 red onion, peeled and chopped breasts 1/2 pound boneless chicken root 2 Tablespoons minced ginger 4 chives, chopped 3 Tablespoons soy sauce 3 Tablespoons water 1 Tablespoon brown sugar 1 Tablespoon cornstarch Salt and spices to taste matchstick-sized pieces. Slice yams and chop into oil in a large frying pan Heat one Tablespoon of the the other Tablespoon Increase heat to high and add Remove from heat and serve with rice or pasta. Yam Biscuits 1 pound yams 2 Cups baking flour 1 Tablespoon baking powder 1 teaspoon salt 2 teaspoons brown sugar 1/2 cup shortening or vegetable oil 1/2 cup milk Bake yams, mash and set aside. In a large bowl sift Spread wax paper on your countertop to reduce the Lightly roll out mixture to about an inch thick. Bake in the oven at 450°F for about 15 minutes or Mango and Yam Surprise 1 pound yams water mixed with the lemon juice to keep the flesh with the lemon juice to keep water mixed sheet, sprin- gray. Lay slices on a baking from turning the chips are toss so both sides of kle with oil and pepper for Sprinkle chips with salt and coated with oil. sugar for use nutmeg, cinnamon and spicy chips or something different. Chop chicken into small pieces. sticks, and onion. Cook for on medium heat. Add yam Spoon off into a cov- five minutes stirring frequently. ered bowl and keep warm. Cook for five minutes till of oil, chicken, and ginger. Return the yams and chicken is no longer pink inside. onion to the pan with the chicken and mix in the remaining ingredients. Bring to a boil and simmer for three to five minutes. all dry ingredients together. Use whisk or an electric mixer (set on medium) to mix in the mashed yams and shortening for about two minutes. Slowly add milk to the yam mixture. mess, and then dump the bowl’s contents onto it. Knead for about a minute, until just slightly moist. Cut out biscuits about two inches in diameter. Place about two inches apart on an ungreased bak- ing sheet. Roll all leftover pieces together to make more biscuits. until biscuits are lightly browned on top. s Mustique ’ and Choice Meats Sunday: 9am to 12pm in the Grenadines.

Tel: (784) 488-8479 Fax: (784) 456-5230 Monday-Saturday: 8am to 12pm & 3pm to 6pm Fine Wine, Cheeses, Fresh Fruits, Vegetables

Corea THE FOOD STORE Your #1 Choice for Provisioning True Yam and Apple Casserole True Yam and 2 Cups yams butter, divided 4 Tablespoons sugar 1/2 Cup brown 1/2 Cup corn syrup 2 Tablespoons dry sherry 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1/8 teaspoon salt cored, sliced 2 medium tart apples, peeled, 1/2 Cup pecans, chopped Grease a 10-inch round Boil yams until fork-tender. 30 minutes. Serve hot. Bake uncovered at 325° for Caribbean Bubble and Squeak 1 pound yams One-half pound cabbage 1 medium onion, minced pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground black Butter Oil for frying Peel, boil and mash yams. Shred and steam cabbage. With fork, mix yams, cabbage, onions, salt and pep- Heat a small amount of oil in large skillet and turn Yammy Chips 2 small yams Oil for frying Salt, garlic salt, and/or chili power as desired Boil yams until fork-tender. Peel and place in refrig- Trini Fish Patties 1 1/2 Cup cooked fish, flaked 1 1/2 Cup yams, boiled and mashed 1 egg 1 Tablespoon onion, minced 1/2 teaspoon salt Freshly ground black pepper to taste Flour to coat Oil for frying Combine all and form into balls. Roll in flour and 1 small onion, sliced thinly onion, sliced 1 small butter 2 to 4 Tablespoons to taste black pepper freshly ground Salt and water 1/2 Cup until just cover) water (or to in 1 quart Boil yams oven-proof pan or dish. Process yams in food processor oven-proof pan or dish. Process butter, sugar, corn syrup, with 2 Tablespoons of the until smooth. Spread half sherry, cinnamon, and salt half of apples and half of of mixture in dish. Layer on remaining butter. pecans. Repeat. Brush with per. Add a little butter if yam is dry. mixture into it. Flatten mixture and brown. Stir all then flatten again. Brown, then turn and brown other side. Serve hot. erator overnight. Next day, slice as thin as possible then fry slices a few at a time in very hot, deep oil. Drain on absorbent paper, sprinkle with salt and desired spices while hot. flatten between hands. Heat oil in skillet over medium heat and brown patties on each side. barely fork-tender. Drain, peel, and slice in 1/4-inch Drain, peel, and slice barely fork-tender. Cover skillet with remaining ingredients. slices. Put in slices and medium-low heat until yam and cook over to prevent Add more water if needed onions are tender. two. scorching. Serves —Continued page from previous

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tel: 440-2310 another butfinallythe Mr. Richardson’sarticle).Theybeatagainstone another sailingship,the hit, andthe harbor ofBarbadosonSeptember10,thehurricane “Lynwood” inMr.Richardson’sarticle).Whilethe from thewreckedship returning fromSt.Vincentwithagroupoffivemen New YorkTimes and anameontherescuevesselinpainting. a H.W.STiestley)Ididhavedateofthepainting(1900) mation abouttheartistofpainting(itappearstobe some shipwreckedsailors.Unabletoidentifyanyinfor- recently purchasedoilpaintingdepictingtherescueof Richardson’s articlewhileresearchingtheoriginofa “Reappearing WreckLinkedto1898Hurricane”. exact locationwherethewreckandrescueoccurred! the harborofBarbados. wrecking ontheshoreofSt.Vincent,96milesfrom parted andallthenextdaywasdrivenwestuntil just aboutallIneed toknow.Thankyou. yacht Forum onthenet.Your replytoMaryDrakeronthe many oftheplacesfeaturedinmag. think again,asIwillmostlikelyvisit/berth/moor at who doesnotthinkthatadvertisingworks should all inIgotalotofinfovery,veryquickly. Anyone issue of Josilene. was theonlyonethatmanagedareply, courtesyof the net,withmanysitesinoperable.Bahia Redonda regarding boatstorageandberthing.Igot verylittleon have beenlooking/askingforinfoon Venezuela Dear In earlierinvestigationIfoundanarticlefromthe Imagine mysurprisewhenIcameacrossDuncan Thank youfortheApril2007articleentitled Hi, Donovan Rafferty Thanks toDuncan’sarticle;ithelpedmeidentifythe Yacht Wild Card John C. From themagazine, IthenfoundyourReaders’ Then afellowyachtiepassedmeanOctober 2007 I havejustsaileddownfromSpaintoBraziland Compass Kristina Compass Compass Readers’ Forum Grace Linwood’s , regardingfeesin Venezuela, toldme , , which mentionsthesteamer . Hey,afewpagesweremissing,but Grace Linwood’s Luenda Grace Linwood anchor linefouledwith (spelled “Loanda”in anchor chain (spelled Hubert cruising arenowconfirmeddead. ue toseekyourpublication,butIthinkanyideasof lous peopleintheworld. tage ofthisfact.Therearemoreandunscrupu- to liveon,andmanybadguysknowtakeadvan- means havingalifetimeofsavingseitherintherig,or issue asyoufocusedonthatpartoftheCaribbean! back.) Ironically,youplacedthisletterinthesame er tolighttheboatafireandtakeacommercialflight to freehisboat.(Itmighthavebeeneasierandcheap- when theychargedhimoutrageousamountsofcash and extortedafterrunningagroundonUnionIsland, while alltherealcriminalsrunawaywithbacon. officials terrorizingthesefolksforsuchpettymis-steps the offense,harsherpenalty.Thisisoutrageous, the US(andapparentlyitsterritoriesaswell)lesser all oneneedstodoisjustfollowthenews,andseethatin in theUS,andcorruptionjudicialsystem, reading whathappenedtothesefolks. judicial systemsintheUSVIandBVI.Itwasscary, experiences withlawenforcementofficialsandthe the editor.Thereweretworeaderswritingabouttheir of bluewater.Goelsewhere.Problemsolved. islands. Simple.Endofworries.Lookattheglobe.LOTS problem: allyoucruisersjustdon’tgotothoseparticular are enoughalready.ThereisonewaytosolvetheAPIS America). Iamanadvocateofnomoreregulations.There would neverwanttoreturntheCommunistStatesof an advocateoffreedom(onethemanyreasonsthatI to yachts Passenger InformationSystemisnolongerbeingapplied one aboutthisAPIS[ classifieds tooffitquickly,andnottellanyonewhy. if Ihadsuchaboat,I’dplacefull-pageadinyour ing tocruise,Inowwouldwakeupincoldsweats,and far —andwon’taftertoday.Ithinkthatifwasaspir- and havemyown17-footpleasureboat,butdon’tgo lot ofeffortintoagreatcomplimentarypublication. other day(theNovember2007issue).Y’allhaveputa think ofbetterexcuses fornottakingtheplunge. cruising lifeintheCaribbean isprettygood.You’llhaveto these kindsoftrouble. Butwethinkthatonbalance,the in Bonaire,too—staying putdoesn’tmakeyouimmuneto plenty ofexamples.I’llbetyoucouldciteexamples ashore trolled propagandaortourist-orientedfantasy), you’llfind US, oranywhereelse(exceptwherethenews isstate-con- exist universally.Asyousay,iffollowthe newsinthe lous people—certainlyexistintheregion. Buttheyalso unfair applicationofthelaw,andactions ofunscrupu- ever cruisingtheCaribbean—instancesof bureaucracy, deserves ahand. distributors tofirst-timeletterwriterslike yourself— to advertisers,contributors,printers,island agentsand group effort,andeveryoneinvolved—fromCockpitCrew I justpickedupmyfirstissueofthe Hi, Thanks forthekindwordsabout Dear JP, Bonaire JP Ayo, Anyway, thanksfortheenlightenment.Iwillcontin- I realizethatbeingacruiser,formanypeople, Then therewasthepoorfellowwhogotscammed I amnotsureaboutBVIlaw,butknowthecorruption But Iwasmostdisturbedbysomeofthelettersto While readingsomeofyourarticles,Icameacrossthe While Iamnotacruiser,doliveintheCaribbean, CC The thingsthatyousayhaveturnedoff theideaof Compass ]. APISdoesnotconcernmepersonally,butIam , Editor’s note:theAdvanced —Continued onnextpage —Continued of St.Vincent wrecked onthecoast anchorage tobe of theirBarbados that sweptshipsout the 1898hurricane depicts ascenefrom 1900 painting It’s possiblethatthis Compass. Compass It’s areal the FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 45 Down Island Ltd Down Island www.islandvillas.com Land and houses for sale and houses Land Bob Goodchild Accredited Marine Surveyor We also handle Villa Rentals & also handle Villa We RYA (Commercial) Ocean Yachtmaster Society of Accredited Marine Surveyors Accredited Marine Society of For full details see our website: For full details or contact Carolyn Alexander at Alexander Carolyn or contact e-mail: [email protected] Tel: Grenada (+1 473) 407 4388 [email protected] Property Management on Carriacou Property Tel: (473) 443 8182 Fax: (473) 443 8290 (473) 443 8182 Tel: Marine Surveyors, Grenada CARRIACOU REAL ESTATE REAL CARRIACOU Accreditation - American Boat and Yacht Council Yacht and American Boat Accreditation - PURCHASE – INSURANCE - DAMAGE Marine Survey throughout the Caribbean Flyingfish Ventures Ltd M/V Wind Dancer . —Continued on next page , December 2007) with great , December 2007) with and is also a considerably larger ves- Readers, , , and should Mr. Nichols wish to dis- Caribbean Compass Satori Compass Compass Compass I offer my sincerest apologies to Scott Nichols of the I hope I have made my position on this most unfor- Thank you, Peter A. Hughes Managing Director Wind Dancer (Grenada) Limited PO Box 386 St. George’s, Grenada Dear We sailed to Aruba from Europe on our 42-foot The marina management is the best we have ever I can assure you that prior to the “Socialismo, Patria o Muerte” (perhaps more accu- o Muerte” (perhaps “Socialismo, Patria o Muerte” the words “Socialismo, Patria The idea that Sally Dear by Lorna Rudkin I read “A Question of Murder” Julia Bartlett S/Y Haleiva who didn’t see Lorna’s Editor’s note: For those of you Dear Director of the I am Peter Hughes, the Managing I am at a certain disadvantage here, because the let- The alleged incident concerns me greatly because by With this in mind I can assure you we NEVER use As has unfortunately happened in the past, and I I also dare to suggest that other vessels frequently uti- Caribbean Compass leaving the area for an unscheduled repair at the Interisle Fabrication & Construction Co. Ltd, in Trinidad recently, there ABSOLUTELY WAS a mooring float on this mooring! In the vessel’s absence it would appear that again. “someone” has chosen to cut away and/or perhaps inadvertently damage the mooring thus eliminating the marker float. schooner cuss the matter further, I can be reached at this address but I DO NOT ACCEPT OR ASSUME RESPONSIBILITY for the actions of others that are totally beyond my control — i.e. Whoever it was that cut away or caused to be cut away the mooring mark- er float in our absence. tunate incident clear and that Mr. Nichols will accept our sincerest apologies. Bavaria via (yawn) hundreds of ports and islands. This is the best place we have been. But, do not anchor here — come into the Renaissance Marina. encountered. Security is excellent. The marina servic- es are excellent. All work we have had done has been controlled by the marina office with effortless efficien- cy. You also get all the services of the two 4 or 5 star hotels ’cause they own the marina. this larger vessel might have damaged the mooring? on walls and buildings everywhere: ‘Socialism, everywhere: buildings and walls on of that the writer It seems clear or Death!’” Patriotism posted he’d seen relating what was simply the article Cuba tourists in just as many during his trip, on walls Guevara portraits, of all the Che photos take souvenir a political act. considering it without or Death”) as “Socialism, Motherland rately translated Hugo used by Venezuelan President is a catch phrase hack- phrase might raise some people’s Chavez. This others it prob- what the context, while to les, no matter Hampshire’s more offensive than New ably seems no motto, “Live Free or Die”. state license-plate for a visitor to but that it’s okay must not be repeated, to marina madre” (“your mother’s c•**”) say “coño de tu anomaly, to say the least. staff strikes us as a cultural ( delight; funny and clever at the same time. I hope that delight; funny and clever at articles like that. she treats us to some more was about exterminating article, don’t panic — it insects on board! large blue-and-white live- company that operates “the I am assuming, the ves- aboard dive vessel” that was, letter in the January sel referred to in Scott Nichols’ edition of the ter published on the subject offers no time line as to when the alleged incident occurred. way of my business interests we operate many such “liveaboard dive vessels” around the world and were arguably, one of the first operators ever to install per- manent moorings (as long as 30+ years ago) for the benefit of all concerned and in particular, for the ben- efit of the environment. We have always done so in compliance with all local laws and with the safe oper- ation of all other vessels traversing the area in mind. “invisible” moorings ANYWHERE for ANY REASON, for the most obvious of reasons (e.g.: the situation referred to being the perfect example) and I can fur- ther assure you that we have always marked the Isle De Ronde mooring as we always do, using a large white float with a blue stripe around it. assume must have this time too, our mooring floats have been all too frequently cut away by “someone” for “whatever” reason[s]? lize the moorings and recently a certain research vessel operating in the area was seen to use the mooring in question. This vessel is considerably larger than the M/V Wind Dancer sel than the mooring was ever intended for — perhaps, , . I then which a visi- Fantome Compass The Ship and Compass Compass Compass contributors. Motorboating and Sailing Motorboating and Compass , , , lost with 31 crew aboard in 1998’s , lost with 31 crew aboard Yachting by Jim Carrier (ISBN 0-07-135526-X), her by Jim Carrier (ISBN 0-07-135526-X), had bought them, powered by 60-horsepow- Compass Compass Fantome papi It was therefore a disappointment to read an article Politics aside, also in the November The possible death of Windjammer Barefoot Cruises, Windjammer death of The possible early days. operation from the I saw Burke’s Hammond, In the 1970s Jeff Safety was abominable. of the tragic fate of the Windjammer We all know fleet pass a proper safe- Can any of the Windjammer Name Withheld by Request Editor’s note: For more information on Windjammer Dear A few months ago, a Sr. Gomez wrote a controversial Dear At the beginning of 2007, another visitor stated that Peter Phillips Venezuela Dear Peter, We appreciate your long-term resident’s persective on For readers who didn’t see the November edition, the in the November 2007 issue that quoted a highly charged political phrase. It made my blood boil, as no doubt it did amongst Venezuelans. This cruiser was visiting a children’s zoo! So why use that rhetoric dur- ing an innocent day out? I assure you it had nothing to do with the admission price. Cruisers who perpetu- ate this nonsense seem intent on spreading collateral damage wherever they go. generated numerous responses. The stated that enough was enough, and would only pub- lish further comments on the political situation here if the safety of cruisers was involved. Roger that, matey! Hurricane Mitch. According to the book Hurricane Mitch. According The Storm have capsized when it stability was so bad she may knots. Would the was blowing only 45 to 50 founded by Mike Burke in 1947, was reported by was reported in 1947, by Mike Burke founded issue of November Faria in the Norman boat for non- crew walked off the Frequently, when crew Burke flew in a replacement payment of wages, leaving the departed with the boat, that quickly on the beach. unpaid crew stranded an editor of fleet’s internationally recognized ty inspection done by an them West Indians, are body? The crew, many of but are they properly young, enthusiastic and trying, licensed to be cap- trained? Are the officers properly on ships of the size of tains, mates and engineers about the law passed well Windjammer’s ships? What a result of two cruiseships over 20 years ago that (as with very high casualties) catching fire and sinking on vessels with wood- outlawed carrying of passengers en decks? Barefoot Cruises current status visit www.windjam- mer.com/press_release.html and www.consumeraf- fairs.com/travel/windjammer.html letter about Venezuelan politics to the say “good riddance”. say “good seven pas- the years until then, at last wrote that over not recovered. were lost overside and sengers and crew inspection done by an have passed a proper safety internationally recognized authority? —Continued page from previous the non-availability of diesel in Puerto La Cruz was due to “unscrupulous cruisers”, Give me a break. How much fuel does the average sail boat carry, 600 or 700 liters? That’s not worth smuggling. The problem was with the Venezuelan fishermen who converted their fish holds into fuel tanks and were supplying Asian longliners in the islands. This same person also chas- tised another cruiser for insulting the marina staff. The phrase that was used is not considered an insult here; it is commonly used as an expression of frustra- tion, much the same as we would use four-letter words if something had dropped into the bilge. the scene in Venezuela, but disagree with a couple of the criticisms of other cruiser who visited the zoo in Mérida, Venezuela, praised the reasonable price of admission, saying, “Like many places we’ve seen so far here in Venezuela, they’re not out to rip you off. I’m sure they could charge a lot more but then people couldn’t afford to go…. That is, I suppose, socialism, which is blatantly advertised tor stated that the patrols and curfews in the canal system at Puerto La Cruz, Venezuela, were “crimping their fun” as they can no longer go to the MareMares marina for dinner by dinghy. If you can afford to eat there a couple of nights a week, you can afford a taxi, which is more beneficial to the community. This cur- few has been imposed for nearly a year and is paying dividends. I live on a canal that has a short-cut to the sea for dinghies and small powerboats. Before the cur- few and patrols, Venezuelans as young as ten tried to re-enact the golden age of flying boats in rubber ducks that er motors — they were out of control. It therefore came as no surprise to hear about a serious accident which resulted in the death of one Venezuelan who became shark bait when he came into contact with the prop. There are some cruisers who also act in an irrespon- sible manner. They load their dinghies up at the Plaza Mayor and take the short cut, full ahead and to hell with bank erosion. FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 46 A&C YACHTBROKERS Port dePlaisance97290,LeMarin Port deplaisanceduMARIN email: [email protected] Voiles Assistance Sails &Canvas(repairsfabrication) E-mail: [email protected] Open MondaytoFriday8-12am2-6pm www.acyachtbrokers.com & SafetyEquipment BOATS FORSALE e-mail: [email protected] LE MARIN/MARTINIQUE located atCarenantillesdockyard tel/fax: (596)596748832 All theSupplies, Saturday byappointment MARTINIQUE for yourBoat Fax: +596748539 Tel: +596748755 Didier andMaria Chandlery Open 7/7

MARTINIQUE annual passes? the TobagoCaysbeabletopurchasemultiple-entry Should frequentrepeatvisitorstomarineparkssuchas of Spanishblood,Indianbloodandplasticsurgery. Dutch girlsandVenezuelanwhoareasubtlemix young men,averageheight6foot5.Fortheboys,leggy bling. Sheisinheavenhere. Jennifer’s (thewife)hobbiesareshoppingandgam- tainments, food,nightclubsbeyondimagination. Cays MarineParkinJanuary’s that wouldnotdamagetheecosystems. charter partyandsuggestedthattheyanchorinaplace erly. Orthenumberoftimeswewentovertoabareboat boats andtakingittoUnionIslanddisposeofprop- cleaned upthegarbageonislands,puttingitour count thenumberoftimesIandothercruisershave helping bareboatersanchorintheproperplaces.Ican’t Tobago Caysbypickinguptrashontheislandsand worked tirelesslytoprotectthenaturalbeautyof in yearspast. Cays cannownolongeraffordtoenjoythemaswedid who haveforyearshelpedtakecareoftheTobago Tobago Caysisnowoutofreachformanycruisers.We fee system,spendingafewweekseveryseasoninthe or limitedbudgets.Undertheperpersondayentry cruisers arelivingonfixed-incomeretirementchecks ing vastsumsforashortvacation,manylong-term Marine Park. to purchaseanannualpasstheTobagoCays allow privateyachtscrewedbytheliveaboardowners TCMP. Mysuggestionwastohaveasystemthatwould further considerationbytheBoardofDirectors Andrew, Imadeasuggestionthathesaidwarranted Their workismakingadifference! reefs forsnorkelerssothattheareprotected. living, andrestoringthedinghymooringsnear the areawheretherearenownumerousGreenTurtles marking offtheturtlegrasstokeepanchoringoutof about thewonderfulworkorganizationisdoingin Board, inearlyJanuary.Wehadanicediscussion Roache, ChairmanoftheTobagoCaysMarinePark Carenantilles Dockyard LEMARIN —Continued frompreviouspage —Continued Dear Cap’n DickoandJenBlamey Sail hereifyoucan. For thegirls,nightclubsarefulloftallDutch The wholetowniswithinwalkingdistance:enter- Chris DoylewroteaboutprogressintheTobago For manyyears,full-timeliveaboardcruisershave Unlike thecharterboats,wherepeoplearepay- During myconversationwithReverendFather I hadtheopportunitytotalkwithFatherAndrew - Breakfast(Coffee,Croissants)Fishing Items Open 7am to7pmSundays: 7amto1pm Tel: +596747094Fax:7478 08 - Fuel/Diesel/GasLaundryCallStation - GroceryIceCigarettesColdDrinks Compass Conveniently located at Mobile: +6962928 12 , B B Full ServiceStation: I I C M C M H H A A I I R R K K T T

Compass

I S I S N N E E I I R R Q Q V V . U U I I C C E E E E S S the TobagoCays. accountable fortheiractionsandcourtesytoguestsof new parkrules.Serviceboatsarenowheldstrictly places andtosetagoodexampleofconductintheCays. to assistnewcomerstheparkanchorinproper would beexpectedtohelptheparkrangersbycontinuing And second,cruiserswhoaregrantedanannualpass ation betweenthecruisingcommunityandTCMP. Tobago Caysinthepastandtofosterasenseofco-oper- nificant workthatcruisershavedonetosupportthe of theTobagoCays,[email protected]. tal watchdogorganization.FormoreinformationonFriends unless, ofcourse,theyalsojoinedthisworthyenvironmen- name wouldnotbeavailabletoparkpassholders— Grenadines calledFriendsoftheTobagoCays,sothis is aregisterednon-profitNGOinSt.Vincent&the boat isa“FriendoftheTobagoCays.”[ Grenadines courtesyflagthatannouncestoallthe pass holderstoflyjustbelowtheSt.Vincent& who didnotwishtopurchaseanannualpass. lected bytheparkrangersaswouldprivateyachts fessional crewwouldstillpaythedailyparkfeecol- Charters ofanykindandprivateyachtswithpaidpro- cruisers ontheirprivateyacht,notincommercialuse. would verifythatthepasswasissuedtoliveaboard would besoldattheTCMPofficeinClifton,which crewed bytheirownersforanannualpass.Thepass the park.Isuggestedasimilarfeeforprivateyachts pay anannualfeeofEC$250forapermittoworkin the cruisersandBoard.Thelocalserviceboatsall while aboutapricethatmightbeacceptabletoboth an annualpasswasworthconsidering.Wetalkeda Directors oftheTCMPandthoughtmysuggestion Island, talkingaboutthis.SheisalsoontheBoardof manages Erica’sYachtServicesinCliftononUnion friends arenolongercomingorstayingjustafewdays.” “The charterboatsarestillhere,”hesaid,“butmy ers becausetherearefewercruisersenjoyingtheCays. for bringingbread,ice,andothersuppliestothecruis- and tomakeendsmeethehashadraisehisprices few daysandmoveon.Thishasimpactedhisbusiness been hererecently,or,whentheycome,spendjusta made overtheyearswhocameyearafterhavenot confirmed thatanumberofcruisingfriendshehas the old-timelocalsservicingboatsinCays.He tinations. IspentsometimevisitingwithWalter,oneof economy ifwebypasstheCaysandsailontootherdes- Your CaribbeanMarineFleaMarket S CHIP-OA SE Heather toldofanotherbenefittocruisersfromthe The intentofthisistwo-fold:Firsttorecognizethesig- Another suggestionwastohavesomesortofaflagfor I alsospentsometimewithHeatherGrant,who It isalsoimportanttoconsidertheimpactlocal Dutch –English –French Germanspoken Close toMarinaBas-du-Fort-Pointe àPitre Charts –Sails-BookExchangeetc… Open 6daysaweek exceptSundays E.mail :[email protected] New &Second-HandChandlery Phone :+590(0) 590831775 Guadeloupe –F.W.I Contact :Anke —Continued onnextpage —Continued Editor’s note:There ] FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 47 SITUATED IN Fax: +7674487701 VHF: 16 Working CH: 19 UNIQUE IN DOMINICA THE CITY OF ROSEAU Capitainerie Tel: +7672752851 www.dominicamarinecenter.com [email protected] John Alden designed AZORES Providing all vital Providing Fiberglass classic, long keel Fiberglass classic, Lying St. Vincent, US 99,000 Lying St. Vincent, Services & Repairs For Sale For BACCHANAL TOO BACCHANAL 50 Lee Offshore Cheoy MID ATLANTIC MID ATLANTIC [email protected] TEL +351 292 391616 FAX +351 292 391656 FAX for Trans-Atlantic Yachts Trans-Atlantic for Bunkered Fuel (+10,000lt) Bunkered EU-VAT (15%) Importation EU-VAT YACHT SERVICES YACHT & soon Mercury Marine PT-9900-144 HORTA / FAIAL HORTA PT-9900-144 LOA: 50’ 6” / LWL: 34’ 2” / Beam: 13’ 8” / Draft: 6’ 5” LWL: 34’ 2” / Beam: 13’ 8” / LOA: 50’ 6” / • Dinghy Bar at the dock • Fuel (Marine Diesel) / Water • Dinghy dock • Nearby laundry service • Secured moorings • Night security store) • Ice & Provisioning (Grocery • Bakery • Clean restrooms and showers • Garbage disposal • Telephone & internet WIFI connection • Yacht chandlery agents of Budget Marine • Light boat repair and cleaning • Activity desk (Tours, diving and water sport activities) • Visa / Master Card accepted www.midatlanticyachtservices.com Tel (784) 458-4283 [email protected] Electronics, Chandlery, Rigging and Information Exchange AND HE DID! It was waiting for me upon our It was waiting for me AND HE DID! 1) Census of Marine Life 2) Global Ocean Observing System 3) Integrated Global Observing Strategy 4) Intergovernmental Oceanographic Commission 5) International Oceanographic Data 6) Indian Ocean Tsunami Warning System 7) Marine Information Alliance 8) Ocean Observations Panel for Climate 9) Scientific Committee on Ocean Research 10) World Meteorological Organization After an unreturned e-mail to Kiss, I phoned and I phoned e-mail to Kiss, unreturned After an Don Freeman S/V Sirius Endeavour Readers, Dear Compass from YOU! We want to hear boat name or address, Please include your name, consumer complaints or We do not publish individual clarity and fair play. Letters may be edited for length, Send your letters to: [email protected] or fax (784) 457-3410 or Compass Publishing Ltd. Readers’ Forum Box 175BQ Bequia St. Vincent & the Grenadines Dolly’s Answers erator failed almost immediately, suffering a seizure in seizure a suffering immediately, almost failed erator sense. the real asking situation and the Doug. Explaining spoke with and he paused might be wrong, on what for advice the new unit, minus send you a don’t I just said, “Why blades and control?” Doug, Martin, just like he said. Thanks, arrival in St. service and behind your products with for standing above. integrity a cut you (preferably by e-mail) if and a way we can contact clarification is required. (Kudos are okay!) individual regatta results complaints. letters; however, your We do not publish anonymous print at your request. name may be withheld from or Sirius Compass www.caribbeancompass.com We’re on theWe’re Web! PLEASE! in the early fall as I readied her for a new in the early fall as I readied ATTENTION, Articles • Advertisers’ Directory • Links • Check It Out… Tell Your Friends! Your Articles • Advertisers’ Directory Tell • Links • Check It Out… Thanks Please do not send any spam, jokes, Anyone who sent e-mail to So far this is just a suggestion from myself to the just a suggestion from myself So far this is Sincerely, Dalton Williams S/V Quietly Dear Compass, it really is due. Just I believe in giving credit when my return to I couldn’t test it then until —Continued page from previous TCMP Board. If you support my suggestion and would If you support my suggestion TCMP Board. of daily fees, Cays without the worry like to enjoy the voice be heard through the please let your A particular “bad boy” recently had his permit to work his permit to recently had “bad boy” A particular that the warning for 30 days with revoked in the Cays in a would result against him complaints any further guests servicing any future work ban from permanent of the Cays. short of three years old, my Kiss wind generator died. short of three years old, my that came with my unit The instruction booklet Upon my return in the claimed a three-year warranty. at their business in spring, I dropped it off I eagerly awaited the Chaguaramas to be repaired. operation as wind gener- opportunity to put it back in running the engine and ation of electricity sure beats heating up the boat. by writing directly to the TCMP Board at directly to the TCMP by writing Andrew at phoning Father [email protected], office in or stopping by the TCMP (784) 485-8191, for a chat. Union Island Endeavour almost as soon as we season of cruising. We left one week we were in splashed the water and within re-conditioned wind gen- Martinique. Alas, the newly etcetera — just Compass-related e-mail. [email protected] between January 16th and January 22nd, please re-send it. That e-mail in-box sprang a leak and sank without a trace! FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 48

TYRREL BAYYACHTHAULOUT

INSTRUCTOR INSTRUCTOR S S TRAINING P.O. Box851,St.Vincent&theGrenadines, t t Your ExpertGuidetoCarriacou’sBestDiving . . Tel: (784)458-7270Fax:457-9917 akgsPc pcl:+(599)553-3850/(590)690-222473 Packages Pick–upcall: cruise throughSt.Vincent,Grenada andtheGrenadines. M M Come alongsideoursplendidjetty andreplenishyour ENTERPRISE A steppingstoneasyou B &CFUELS E-mail: [email protected] n.0135021 -al [email protected] 001-3057042314E-mail: Int. Petite Martinique a a Welcomes youto a a For furtherinformation callGlennClementor r r supplies of t Reynold Belmar. Tel/Fax:(473)443-9110 t at thecheapestpricesinGrenadines. WALLILABOU WALLILABOU BAYHOTEL Call sign:“Golf Sierra” VHFchannel16 ANCHORAGE e e n n West Indies. (range limitedbythehills) VHF Ch16&68 Find usrightinthetownofHillsborough! Phone/Fax (473)443-7882andVHFCH16 Dailydivesat9.30amand1.30pmorindividually • RendezvousServiceforSailorsatHillsborough, • FUEL, OIL,WATERandICE • PADI CoursesfromBeginnertoInstructor ● ● ● ● ● ● & 15SpecialtiesinEnglishDeutsch and deliver allyour goods. All you need iscontactustofastpickup Documentsetc. Freight, Overnight Packages, Express packagesanddocuments, same day, collect anddeliver doortolocalthe offer thenew system delivery Martin, St. Maarten/ the DutchandFrench sideofSt. fast andefficientCOURIERSERVICES to CIRExpress give newspapers etc... magazines, pallets, parcels, If you need totransport New environmentallyfriendlyhaulout Chandlery Mini -Marina Do ityourselforlabouravailable Fuel Dock,Water 50-ton hoist,18ftbeam,8ftdraft SpecialGroupPricesforSailors • ScubaandSnorkelGearRental • [email protected] Air-FillsatPADI5*Standard • Phone/Fax: 473.443.8175 www.scubamax.com Sandy Island&Tyrrel-Bay E-mail: [email protected] CARRIACOU ... CARIBEE BATIK-BOUTIQUE CREDIT CARDSACCEPTED WATER, ICE,SHOWERS BAR ANDRESTAURANT VHF: 16 MOORING FACILITIES TOURS ARRANGED HAPPY HOUR5-6 PORT OFENTRY Dear tions aregiventotheanchoragewestofProtestantCay. you areverycloseaboard,runalongtheshoreandgraduallybearoff.”Thendirec- Louise Augusta,standonin,leaveflashingred4tostarboardcontinueinuntil “schooner channel”.Theguidesaid,roughly,“HeadfortheradiotowerbyFort Guide totheVirginIslands that hasnailedanumberofboatsinthepast. passed betweenBuckIslandandSt.Croix;luckilytheydidnothitChannelRock igation, goodpiloting,boathandlingandabitofluck.Isaythisas to ChristianstedHarbour. author ofthepilotbookwasnotfamiliarwithislandSt.Croixnorentrance familiar withthearea.Butlookingatcoursessailedby entrance wasnotanoption. it blowinghard,andastrongwesterlysetofthecurrent,heavingtooffharbour ed here(someendingupastotallosses)thatnoonehasanaccuratecount. the areaadviseagainstdoingthis,asthroughyearssomanyboatshaveground- about hisnight-timeentrancetoChristianstedHarbor,St.Croix.Sailorswhoknow Ireland D.M. Street,Jr bour. Butthatwasnot allowedontheirEPApermit,sothey leftitofftheirsurvey. their equipmentclear ofthechannel,sotheydredgedeastern sideofthehar- covered thereasonfor thediscrepancy.Thedredgecompany neededaplacetomoor where thedredgecompany’s surveyshowedshoalwater.Iasked questionsanddis- ing pole,checkedandfoundeightfeet of watertowithinaboatlengthshore, ern sideoftheharbourdidnotlookcorrect, soIgotinthedinghyand,withasound- Club wouldhelp. the surf!CaptainNickpromisedthathe andothermembersoftheSt.CroixYacht detailed surveyofSt.Croix,so thattheylosttwoinshoresurveyboatsin it asIknewthatinthemiddle1980s NOAA haddoneanunpublishedbutvery asked ifImraycoulddoaverydetailedchart fromSaltRiver,east.Weagreedtodo and shoalswerecould“rockhop” much betterthanvisitingyachtsmen.He tas offSt.Croix,thelocalshadanadvantage astheyknewwherethecoralheads in theearly1990s. pany’s 1990surveythatIdiscoveredwasinerrorwhenweweremakingourA234 middle 1930s,withupdates.TheChristianstedHarborupdateisfromadredgecom- most accuratechartofSt.Croixavailable. chart. IcansaywithoutfearofcontradictionthattheImrayIolairechartA234is the they arecopiedfrom.TheCMapchartofSt.CroixistakenfromaninaccurateNOAA with localboats. later guidesIsaidnottoanchorwestofProtestantCayastheareaistoocrowded unbuoyed LittleMiddleGround. ly twogybes—andthenstillyouarenothomefreeascaneasilyclip the channel requirestworight-angleturns,a500-yardrundeaddownwind,andusual- mended notfollowingthenormalmarkedchannel(as and againinits1979revisionexpansion.Inthe’79guideIstronglyrecom- The sailingdirectionsinmyfirstguide—theprivatelyprinted1964 Aubrey andhiswifesafelygotintotheharbouranchoredbydintofgoodnav- The useofa20-year-oldpilotbookisacceptable,IFitwerewrittenbysomeone A medicalemergency,however,madeitimperativethat Regarding thearticleinAugust2007issueof I wasgivenacopyofthedredgecompany’s surveybytheHarborMaster.Theeast- In about1990CaptainNickCastruccio, USNRet.,saidthat,racingintheregat- The NOAAandBAchartsofSt.Croixhavebeencompiledfromsurveysdoneinthe Also tokeepinmindisthefactthatelectronicchartsarenobetterthan These directionshavebeenre-printedinallStreet’sGuidessincethen,butthe These directionswererepeatedinmy1966 Compass , the Month Letter of — recommendedusingwhatwaslocallyreferredtoasthe Cruising GuidetotheLesserAntilles Compass

Veleda Veleda STREET’S GUIDES STREET’S Veleda enter atnight.With did), asusingthis by AubreyMillard , itseemsthe Yachtsman’s Veleda , FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 49

WWW.WINDWORD.CA (2) Now, I always had a vision of missionaries as folk who moved into a community and Now, I always had a vision of missionaries as folk who by having a lot of peo- If you don’t believe that it’s possible to fund luxury cruising who send their chil- There is a down side though. You have to preach to parents Why am I left feeling that something’s wrong here? Perhaps I am just having one of my cynical days. June 2007 boat insurance for another Pray for our finances as we need to pay $7,900.00 for July 2007 as possible. We use the little Please pray as we need to purchase a vehicle as soon May 2007 May that has happened, stress of all exhausted. The as we are all be in prayer Please The Borthwicks, whose liveaboard missionary lifestyle is funded by donations The Borthwicks, whose liveaboard solicited on their website lived, more or less, as the local people lived. It involved a lifestyle that really didn’t do much lived, more or less, as the local people lived. It involved a lifestyle you swan up a river through for me, which goes to show how out of date I am. Nowadays, fuel, and arrive in the local vil- the jungle, with all those horsepowers of engines guzzling full of the love of God. Cool. lage cool, crisp and neat — fresh from your luxury yacht, have a look at www.wind- ple praying for you and exercising their credit cards, word.ca. Now are you a believer? because they can’t afford dren to Casa Guatemala, an orphanage, during the week live in rough wooden dormi- to feed them at home. The volunteers at the orphanage air conditioning, and have tories with no electricity, which means no fan, let alone water is on, and manage with to time their showers for the couple of hours a day the read the Borthwick’s web candles after dark. But I am sure that when they have pressing needs. page they’ll be moved to spare a little towards these cruisers’ etc.… plus I have yearly boat insurance due the first week of June, about $7,000.00.… etc.… plus I have yearly boat are depleted, but I know year, due by June 10th. Seems impossible as our accounts We need fuel for the boat for God is in control, and He does not want us to stop now. for strength. this last leg of this part of God’s ministry journey! Pray to get to the churches and boat to get to the villages on the river, but we need a vehicle is a perfect small Chevy pick- 100s of other villages in the area, and for teams. There good on fuel, year 2000, and up for sale, four doors and seats 6, 4x4, turbo diesel so rough with dents, paint fade, Guatemalan registry which is what we need. It is a little want $7,000 US, but I would oil leaks, etc., but it would be a great vehicle for us. They of faith, so for now we walk, like to try to get it for $5,000 if I can afford it. Another step but please be in prayer about a vehicle for us. plus all the work we have been doing on the boat while getting it fixed. I am tired and it fixed. I am while getting on the boat have been doing the work we plus all of pain. I a fair amount up again, so been acting my back has disk in my herniated and about and up here, 30 minutes surgery down invasive disk on the new checked with 6 surgery do the old-fashioned does Canada Why day, $25,000.00!!! the same I have put all how long for the surgery? and lots of pain, plus waiting weeks recovery the bill when it not know how we will pay on my Master Card, and I do our expenses food, dockage, repair, stocking up on fuel, bottom repair, generator comes in. Diesel Jireh Cruising on a ‘heavenly’ budget: the 70-foot, fully loaded

The The

by Julia Bartlett WHAT’S ON MY MIND ON WHAT’S for Cruisers for Missionary Position Missionary I am talking an immaculately maintained 70-foot trawler yacht, the best marina in I am talking an immaculately maintained 70-foot trawler are right up front about This is not a scam: cruisers Brent and Sharon Borthwick to give you an idea Here are some excerpts from their website, www.windword.ca, January 2007 to do it. I do not have the I do not have the money to haul the boat, but we have The Missionary Position is where you lie back on your air-conditioned bunk and The Missionary Position is that such a cruising lifestyle means scraping by Now, in case you are thinking town, a center-console RIB dink with a 50-horsepower outboard, a shoreside vehi- town, a center-console RIB dink with a 50-horsepower night guard to keep an eye on cle to go shopping at the mall in the next town, and a it all — just for starters. Their website is com- what they are doing with the money they receive in donations. to help these good folk, you plete with “donate now” buttons and, if you are moved can do so by credit card. of their cruising needs: it all on my Credit Card, money to fuel it up, but we have to do it. I just keep putting but He wants me to tell but how are we going to pay the bill? I know God will provide, do to help. Whatever God lays you our needs. I am asking, please, anything you can be you, then double it, triple it, on your heart, if you are not sure it is God and it might that $10,000.00 to come I don’t know, maybe just give the whole bank! I am praying I do not think you have ever in right now. Maybe $20,000.00, we really need it now. maybe give $250.00 or heard me ask like this before, but if you usually give $25.00, $10,000.00. We have no option $2,500.00. Maybe take $100.00 to $1,000.00, or even than through you all. We are if we continue as missionaries to make money other imagine just 20 people at God’s servants asking His people for help. Can you us …. $1,000.00 each is $20,000.00! Please if you can, help ask — well, beg‚ might be a better word — for the money to maintain a cruising ask — well, beg‚ might be you have to do, and I jest not. lifestyle. It works; that’s all no refrigeration, rowing ashore, only drink- on a tiny sailboat, no air conditioning, me enough for the week at Tuesday’s pot luck, let ing at happy hour and eating disillusion you. FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 50 4 96Tlyrf Y oki,ti as$110,000 $129,500 $49,500 44’ 1986TollycraftMY,Cockpit,twincats $85,000 43’ 1990MarineTrader,A/C,radar,neverchartered 31’ 1998SeaRaySundancer,ExcellentCondition $33,500 30’ 1987LuhrsAlura,Lobster/Picnicboat,diesel $95,000 $250,000 $199,000 55’ 1956CustomYawl,Excellentcharterbusiness,CGcertfor18 49’ 1979TranspacificKetch,Bluewatercruiser,Excellentcond. 40’ 1984Endeavoursloop,Wellmaintained,readytocruise, 33’ 1973Pearson10MSloop,refit,neweng.paint, Call, faxorvisitourwebsiteforacompletelistofboatssale 40’ 1984EndeavourSloop T HMSYCTSALES ST. THOMAS YACHT $95,000 Compass PointMarina,6300Est.Frydenhoj,Suite28, www.stthomasyachts.com St. Thomas,U.S.V.I.00802 Fax: (340)779-2779 Tel: (340)779-1660 [email protected] Power Sail 49’ 1979TranspacificKetch $199,000 today inmanyislandswherepopulationgrowthhasout-strippedtheinfrastructure. Thomas Harborwasimmaterial.Imentionthisbecausethesamesituationexists untreated. Inthelightofthat,amountsewagegeneratedbyyachtsinSt. into theseauntreated.Oftenplantwasbrokendownsoallsewagewentin time, St.Thomas’ssewagetreatmentplantwassooverloadedthat50percentofitwent for manyyears.Thesubjectofsewagetreatmentcameup.Hereportedthat,atthat neering degree,returnedandhadbeenworkingasanengineerfortheVIgovernment had notseenin20years.DuringthattimehegonetotheStates,obtainedanengi- waterfront, whenapick-uptruckdriverofferedmelift.ItwasanoldfriendwhomI Thomas andcontinuingsouthtoGrenada. at thesituationharborbyinEasternCaribbean,startingwithSt. schemes toeliminateyacht-generatedpollutioninSt.George’sLagoon,letuslook people gettooexcitedandstartofferinghalf-baked,insomecasesimpossible, subject isverymuchintheforefrontofeveryone’smindsGrenada.Butbefore ure toswimin.ButinNovember,thewholepollutionprocessstartsagain. summer, theharbourstartscleaningitself,topointthatbyOctoberitisapleas- November whentheyachtsstartarrivingforseason.Theyreportthatduring the yachts havedepartedbyJune,leavingFalmouthHarbourvirtuallyemptyuntil late pumped directlyintotheharbor.Residentspointoutthatannually,almostall the to dischargetheirholdingtanks.Asaresult,anunknownquantityofyachtsewage is Harbour Iknowofnoregulationthatactuallyrequiresyachtstogoouttheharbor their toiletfacilitiesandofferapump-out-truckserviceforholdingtanks,inFalmouth induced marinepollution.Hopefullythemanagementwilladda“nodischarge”rule. al plant.Again,boatersareurgedtouseshoresidetoiletfacilities,thusminimizingyacht- falls istoolongtodescribehere,andbesidesthat,theyhaveanexcellentsewage-dispos- ments intheCaribbean.Thewaytheysave,useandre-useeverydropofrainwaterthat to fallintoitanddrownorberescued. this lagoonbecomesmorepolluted,tothepointthatIdonotknowwhichisworse: “no discharge”rule,orevenoneforbiddingtheemptyingofholdingtanks.Eachyear flush itout.Inadditiontoland-basedpollution,myknowledgethereisasyetno shallow, withoutsufficienttidalcirculationthroughitstwonarrowentrancesto have large,openharbors. Likewise, Anguilla,Barbuda,Statia,St.Kitts,Nevis,MontserratandDominicaall of course,encouragedtouseshoresidetoilets. large groupofpeopleresidespermanentlyonboatsinMayaCove.Marinausersare, problem ascrewsjoinabareboatanddepart,orarriveondepart;no the watershedwasinfinitelygreaterthanwhatevercouldbeproducedbyyachts. horrific; theamountofsewagedrainingintoharborproducedbyhouseson tanks atall,howmanypeoplelivedineachhouse,etcetera.Theresultwasrather all theout-houses,homeswithimproperlyinstalledsepticsystemsorno survey ofallthehousesonhillsidethatdrainsintoWickham’sCay.Theytallied the marina’sgeneralmanagerattime,JohnAckland,hiredalocalteamtodo tion theyachtpollutionisminimal.WhenVillageCayMarinawasbeingbuiltthere, circulation andplentyofyachts.Butstill,incomparisontotheshore-createdpollu- ly goodself-cleaningcurrent. reef, fillingaharborthathasasitsonlyexitnarrowchannel.Thiscreatesreal- ers. InChristiansted,St.Croix,forexample,theoceanswellcomesinoverlong rent. Theeffluentisquicklydissipated,breaksdownandnotapollutionproblem. means thatsewageinanyquantityisdischargeddeepwaterwherethereastrongcur- which statesthatholdingtankscannotbedischargedwithin1,000yardsofshore.This bers ofmega-yachts,hascausedarealprobleminsomeplaces. little problem.Buttheexponentialexpansionofyachting,includingincreasingnum- er andfewer.Theirgradualdischargeofsewagedissipated,brokedowncaused contribute. Inyearsgoneby,althoughnonehadholdingtanks,yachtsweresmall- Marine Pollution Read inNextMonth’s Fifteen yearsagoinSt.Thomas,USVI,IwaswalkingalongtheCharlotteAmalie Because ofthelargenewmarinabeingestablishedinSt.George’sLagoon,this Farther east,Antiguahasaproblem.Althoughthemarinasthereencourageuse of Jolly HarbourinAntiguaisoneofthemostenvironmentallyfriendlymarinadevelop- But SimpsonLagoon,St.Maarten,hasaproblem.Itisanenclosedbodyofwater, Most otherharborsintheBVIarewideopen,withplentyofnaturalwaterflow. Maya Cove,thehomeofBVIbareboatfleets,Idonotthinkhastoomucha Wickam’s Cay,Tortola,ontheotherhand,isanenclosedbodyofwaterwithno Yacht-generated pollutionhasbeenlessofanissueinsomeharborsthanoth- Hopefully theUSVIauthoritieswillenactalawsimilartothatofBritishVirginIslands Although land-basedsourcesmaycreatethemostmarinepollution,yachtsdo Hummingbird’s Notes from aCarriacouSloop The CharteringLife Revisited A Lookat WHAT’S ONMYMIND by DonStreet … andmore! Cuban Cruise Compass —Continued onnextpage —Continued : FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 51 ACANCIES! Bequia, St Vincent & the Grenadines Bequia, St Vincent [email protected] TradeWinds Cruise Club operate a fleet of catamarans across TradeWinds six destinations in the Caribbean. company, are the fastest growing charter We all inclusive, 7 days. TERM CHARTERS, operating CREW V or by mail to: Bequia Marina, P.O.Box 194BQ, Port Elizabeth, 194BQ, Port Elizabeth, or by mail to: Bequia Marina, P.O.Box email: [email protected] Tel. St Vincent +784 457 3407 Tel. St Maarten +599 5510550 St Maarten +599 Tel. +784 457 3407 St Vincent Tel. 12 issues US$29.95, 24 issues US$53.95 www.caribbeancompass.com Always enjoy the Bob Mercer S/V Ooh La La Join our growing list of on-line subscribers! Same price, same content — faster delivery! Compass which allows me to stay current on ‘de Caribbean ting’! We are looking for crew, mainly teams in the form of a Captain and a Chef/Hostess. are looking for crew, We prefer couples that are married OR have been living together for at least a year. We and teamwork The nature of the job is such that the better the understanding charters will be. between Captain and Chef the more successful your Requirements: Captain with a Skipper’s licence. Chef/Hostess with a basic understanding of cooking. is a plus. Dive master/ instructor for either the Captain and/or Chef onsite in the Caribbean. full training offer We are willing to work hard and This is a FUN job with great earning potential. If you job. have a positive disposition to life this could be your DREAM Anyone with an interest is welcome to apply. send your CV to us, please If you would like more information about this job or use this email address: with Dodd in March of 1961, Papagayo Iolaire NEW 63’ SAIL CAT SEATING FOR 90 PASSENGERS NEW CATAMARANS • Available as single or double deck 49 passengers, Base price $199,000

All new Offshore 53’ catamaran Twin diesel, AVAILABLE FOR IMMEDIATE DELIVERY • Fast delivery • Twin Diesel - Base Price $299,000 • Fast delivery • Twin Diesel - Base Price • 63 x 24 Power Cat USCG Stability test for 149 PAX • 63 x 24 Power Cat USCG Stability test Falmouth and English Harbors can be cleaned up considerably if the Government up considerably if the English Harbors can be cleaned Falmouth and is minimal discharged by the yachts islands, the amount of sewage In the French from the UK number of years ago by a group independent survey done a In St. Lucia, an the yacht-based pollution situation pretty much under St. Lucia has, at present, in St. Vincent are all open with plenty of cur- Except for Blue Lagoon, anchorages Lagoon, Grenada. Pollution in this lagoon cannot be Now we come to St. George’s Port Louis Marina does have options, like building their own sewage treatment Port Louis Marina does have options, like building their enough, and the yachting On the south coast of Grenada, the harbors are large as has been enacted in the It is time for ALL the islands to enact the same law Call Ron Cooper (727) 367- 5004 • www.coopermarine.com of Antigua would do as the BVI government: require all yachts to be 1,000 yards off- require all yachts to be do as the BVI government: of Antigua would the mega-yachts But would this drive their holding tanks. shore before discharging It is time for the while in Simpson Lagoon? where they can discharge to St. Maarten, get their gov- to co-operate and BOTH in St. Maarten and Antigua yachting industry law. a “no holding-tank discharge” ernments to pass discharge. to the municipal sewage in comparison sources — runoff was from land-based too, the majority of pollution showed that there, and untreated sewage from Castries and other towns. from outhouses, poor septic tanks a Bay Marina was built 25 years ago, they installed control, however. When Rodney plant, adequate for the original marina. Like other state-of-the-art sewage treatment to use the shoreside toilets. If the sewage treat- marinas, they encourage yachtspeople care of the expanded marina, and yachts with holding ment plant is expanded to take in inside Rodney Lagoon, and the same thing is done tanks are forbidden to discharge in St. Lucia should be well under control. inner Marigot Bay, the situation all from marine toilets. In the Grenadines, too, nearly rent to dissipate discharge of water flow. So all is well, as long as yachts with anchorages are open with plenty them until they are, as is required in the BVI, 1,000 holding tanks do not discharge Cays Marine Park has a “no discharge” rule. yards offshore. The Tobago I first arrived in Grenada on blamed on the yachts. When —Continued page from previous only the is quite clean; harbour the outer less of a problem: Harbour has English 200 years time, proposed in Nelson’s It was and polluted. is stagnant inner harbour Falmouth English and land between neck of the narrow dig a ditch through ago, to happened This almost pollution. to minimize water circulation to provide Harbours to present here. long a story did not is too Why it in the 1980s. the channel into the lagoon had been dredged only about a year previously. There the channel into the lagoon the lagoon: the 40-foot motorboat were just two other boats in plant and urging those on yachts to use the marina toilets. Then make it an absolute plant and urging those on yachts to use the marina toilets. within the lagoon. If it is rule that there can be no discharge from holding tanks another solution would be impossible to build an adequate sewage treatment plant, pipe, long enough to reach to run the sewage untreated through a LONG discharge west coast of Grenada. deep water and the strong north-south current off the is not a problem and will population small enough (so far) that sewage from yachts do not discharge their not be a problem as long as yachts, especially mega-yachts, holding tanks in harbors. of shore. BVI: no discharge of holding tanks within 1,000 yards Gorman sitting on the stern, and a 45-foot gaff sloop owned by Laddie McIntyre’s Gorman sitting on the stern, was already well polluted by the run-off from out- older brother. But the lagoon and direct sewage from the local system. As years houses and poor septic tanks more populated and pollu- went by, the area around the lagoon became more and tion increased accordingly. FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 52 SERU BOCAMARINA www.santabarbaraplantation.com SAILMAKING, RIGGING,ELECTRONICS For asafeberth… S.I.M.S. Boatyard, True Blue,Grenada stainless steelandaluminium items. TechNick Ltd. Grenada Marine•SpiceIsland welding. Fabricationandrepair of Engineering, fabricationand Tel: (473)536-1560/435-7887 [email protected] Nick Williams, Manager [email protected] Caribbean CompassMarketPlace [email protected] Tel/Fax (473)439-4495 Grenada Curaçao Antigua Bequia Yamaha engines and service and service We sell www.caraibe-greement.fr [email protected] Phone: +(596)596748033Cell:(596)696276605 Barefoot Yacht Charters [email protected] G G G Centre deCarenage97290LeMarin N R ASA Sailing School – Full Service MarineCentre ASA SailingSchool–FullService I I LE MARIN,MARTINIQUE•GRENADA Phone (+596)596747770 THE SPECIALISTFOR BOAT MAINTENANCE www.carenantilles.com Bareboats –FullyCrewed Yachts – Fax: +596(0)596747916 [email protected] www.barefootyachts.com [email protected] Tel: +596(0)5967480 Martinique Blue Lagoon,StVincent & MarineCentre IN MARTINIQUE 1-784-456-9526 /9334 St Vincent Boatyard LeMarin Martinique R D N A H C H E P S L I [email protected] email: [email protected] & DJEMBEDRUMS BANANA CRAFT MARKET PLACE AD YOUR www.nzimbu-brown.com High qualityindigenous Tel: 457-1677/531-2897 THIS COULDBE St Vincent Trinidad Book itnow: FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 53 BEQUIA Tel: (784) 458 3041 We are online: www.caribbeancompass.com New Location at Gingerbread Café New Location at Gingerbread

To advertise in Caribbean Compass Market Place, see list of island agents on page 4 see list of island agents Market Place, in Caribbean Compass To advertise • [email protected] Tom at (784) 457 3409 or contact St Lucia, Grenada Caribbean Compass Market Place Market Compass Caribbean St Thomas, St Maarten, St www.IslandWaterWorld.com [email protected] Caribbean-wide Marine Distributors P: 599-544-5310 F: 599-544-3299 FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 54 [email protected] US$7500/offers E-mail repairs needed.Sacrifice ments &,LyingTrinidad, Profurl, Yanmar,B&Ginstru- 36' DUTCHSTEELCUTTER [email protected] (473)-405-3827 orE-mail offer. LocatedGrenadaTel closest US$35K willaccept upholstery end2007.Valued stereo,GPS.New bow rails, Top, windshield,rodholders, board; highspecincludingSST- condition, 200HPYamahaout- FISHERMAN FORMULA III25'SPORTS Tel (784)458-8888 [email protected] Tel (340)626-2186E-mail Caribbean cruise.US$50,000 Croix. Justcompleted4year Cruise ready,locatedinSt. outboard andmuchmore. maker, SSB,inverter,dinghy, solar, windgenerator,water- Yanmar, self-steering,autopilot, Ted Brewerdesign,3cyl 1984 33' STEELCUTTER,MURRAY [email protected] more infoandpicturesE-mail US$199,000, lyingSt.Lucia.For aboard andcruiser well equipped,excellentlive glass, gc,newengine,very VENUS 46,1984KETCH [email protected] specs/pictures E-mail 119,000 Canadian,for below currentsurvey,asking seen, hauledinAntigua,well far toomuchtolist,mustbe ers,radar/arch, dinghy/davits, tackle, cockpitcushions/cov- fridge/freezer, interior,ground tor/water-maker, batteries, ics, separatedieselalterna- new upsizedrig,allelectron- and upgradesin'05including COAST 34 DETSRLCTO PG LOCATION ADVERTISER iia atnqe28 38 Martinique 7 32 St.Lucia 51 St.Maarten 48 Curaçao 28 Discovery Marigot USA 21 St.Maarten 43 Diginav Martinique Diesel Outfitters 46 Martinique Curaçao Marine Mustique 9 Corea's FoodStoreMustique 50 Guadeloupe Cooper Marine 40 CIRExpress 2 Martinique UnionIsland Carene Shop Tortola Carenantilles 46 SintMaarten 42 Caraibe Yachts 14 41 Caraibe Greement 50 Martinique Captain Gourmet Carriacou 45 BVI YachtSales Mustique Bequia Budget Marine Trinidad Bogles RoundHouse 29 17 Grenada Bichik Services 15 48 PetiteMartinique Bequia SailingClub St.Vincent Bay IslandYachts Antigua 44 Basil’s Bar Trinidad Barefoot YachtCharters 46 B &CFuelDock Art Fabrik Martinique Anjo Insurance UK Angostura Ltd. Admiral YachtInsurance A&C YachtBrokers BOATS FORSALE , 1984,majorrefit , 2001,excellent fiber- 1976 pilot.Trinidad Tel(868)680-4210 age, radar,GPS,auto bunks, baitwell,tacklestor- counters, V-berth&double refrig/freezer, cookTop/Corian generator, AC,head,shwr, diesel engines315hpea.5kw 30 RAMPAGEEXPRESS [email protected] 312-2993 E-mail US$329,000 Tel(868) dinghy w/10hpMercury. batteries, newinflatable 170w solarpanels,16Trojan upper deckw/fullcover,9x loaded electronics,12'x21' CAT 2001 LAGOON43POWER [email protected] Margarita US$20,000E-mail fortable, goodcondition,lying England 1993,strongandcom- SUPER ATLANTAVIKING27' [email protected] PLEASE!E-mail Good condition,OFFERS CD, wheelsteering,lotsmore. 2 ,mains,spinnaker,TV, Yanmar 2GM20,newAwlgrip, PEARSON 30'BUILT1973 [email protected] Tel: (784)458-8829E-mail: www.artandsea.com. Island, SVG.Infoon ready tosail,locatedPalm tion, plentyofnewupgrades, 1986 Beneteau51 excellent condition, # DETSRLOCATIONPG ADVERTISER Nice condi- onCwe eua36 41 Bequia Bequia 45 23/44 56 Grenada 47 SintMaarten 37 John Cawsey 8 UK Martinique Jack's Bar 27 49 Island WaterWorld 33 40 Bequia Island Dreams 33 Iolaire Enterprises Tortola Guadeloupe Grenada Horizon YachtManagement Bequia Grenada GRPro-Clean Bequia Grenadines Sails 45 40 Grenadine IslandVilla Grenada Marine 32 39 Grenada Fred Marine 23 Frangipani Hotel Bequia Food Fair 3 Jamaica Flying FishVentures 5 USA Antigua Fernando's Hideaway 43 Falmouth HarbourMarina 25 45 Tortola Errol FlynnMarina Trinidad 24 Echo Marine-JotunSpecial Doyle's Guides Bequia Grenada Carriacou Martinique Doyle OffshoreSails 47 Down IslandRealEstate Douglas YachtServices Doris FreshFood Dominica 10 Dopco Travel Dominica MarineCenter Martinique Dockwise YachtTransportSarl , new Twin Built mad.com Tel(473)415-1026 Details onwww.petetheno- blue watercruiserUS$75K ALOCK 34 PACIFIC SEACRAFTCRE- Happy Houreverydayfrom5- personal laundryservice. propane tankfill-up, sale. Taxiserviceavailable, Eggs, bread,cheese,iceon NIMROD’S RUMSHOP,GRENADA [email protected] (58) 416-3824187E-mail deliveries. TelCrisRobinson cal problemsandyacht INSURANCE SURVEYS, PUERTO LACRUZ,VENZ. E-mail [email protected] after 6pm. owner. Call(784)4564963 Serious buyersonly.Saleby Point, HouseandLand. BEQUIA US$200,000 Tel(473)442-1897 location, goodanchorage, overlooking CrayfishBay,quiet 1/4 acreland300ydsfromsea bished 3bedroomhouseon N.W. GRENADA www.caribtrace.com Grenadines andTyrrelBay views overlookingSouthern and multiacretracts.Great CARRIACOU, ONEACRELOTS [email protected] rental available.E-mail fruit trees.US$320,000,Term land, fencedwithmature road -nostairs!12,558sqftof full kitchen,laundry,levelwith bedrooms, 1guestbedroom, yards frombeach.2master Lovely 1250sqft.cottage,100 FRIENDSHIP BAY,BEQUIA [email protected] US$10,000 OBOE-mail 84hp, 2yearsold. AVON 19FTJETSKIDINGHY Tel (868)650-1914 36HP YANMAROUTBOARDDIESEL E-mail [email protected] Tel (473)439-4495/415-8271 tihulls. 16-17&22meters. has 3mastssuitableformono/mul- MASTS -TURBULENCEGRENADA PROPERTY FORSALE MISC. FORSALE , LowerBay,Bells SERVICES ADVERTISERS INDEX ADVERTISERS INDEX highly regarded Recently refur- CLASSIFIEDS electri- # DETSRLOCATIONPG ADVERTISER [email protected] Tel (784)457-3291E-mail tomized canvasspecialist Interior/exterior/cus- BEQUIA -CANVAS full moon.VHF16 6pm Moonlightpartyevery Check ourpricesat and PuertoLaCruz,Venezuela. service availableatCuracao tems, membranes,sparesand WATERMAKERS E-mail [email protected] Tel (473)537-9193/538-4608 ft bags.Allunderwaterservices salvage/emergency/moorings/li UNDERWATER DIVINGSERVICES E-mail [email protected] 2897 www.nzimbu-browne.com drum Tel(784)457-1677/531- nous bananacraftanddjembe CRAFTS ST. VINCENT-NZIMBUARTS& services. Tel(473)404-2707 tions andahostofother chasing, sourcing,reserva- warding, billpayment,pur- mail managementandfor- catering, errandservices, providing concierge, CARIBBEAN VIRTUALOFFICE Grenada (473)414-1274 www.clearthemind.5u.co FEELING STRESSED? Industrial Servicebusinessin needed forbusyMarine SERVICE ADMINISTRATOR forsaleonline.com $600,000 www.charteryachts- of theworld.Askingprice yourself inthechartercapital tional opportunitytoestablish cosmetically. Thisisanexcep- age conditionstructurallyand was surveyedataboveaver- of $400,000.InDec'07boat year withanapproxturnover 30-week longchartersper multihull whichaverages20to Sale includesalarge12Pax to betransferredbyshares. company thatallowsallassets to expand.Thisisalimited operating permitsandroom with broadTradeLicense,all itable Sail&SCUBAbusiness BVI YACHT CHARTERBUSINESS In PLCTel(58)416-3824187 www.watercraftwatermaker.com BUSINESS FORSALE ci--aeGaeop 46 Guadeloupe 6 42 22 12 29 40 Curaçao Bequia 36 Aruba Schip-O-Case Grenada Grenada 28 Santa BarbaraResorts 13 Bequia Salty DogSportsBar Renaissance Marina 33 Martinique PSV Prickly BayMarina Tortola 51 Porthole Restaurant Venezuela Port Louis 53 37 Ponton duBakoua 30 Trinidad Petit St.Vincent 40 47 31 Perkins Engines 52 37 Tortola Peake YachtBrokerage Bequia Grenada 46 Northern LightsGenerators Caribbean Bequia Azores Navimca Mid AtlanticYachtServices Bequia 18 Martinique Bequia McIntyre Bros.Ltd 30 Bequia Marina Maranne's IceCream Grenada 30 11 Mac's Pizza St.Vincent Lulley's Tackle 35 LIAT St.Vincent St.Croix Le Ship Le PhareBleu St.Lucia Lagoon MarinaHotel KP Marine Jones Maritime Johnson Hardware Turnkey, longterm,prof- for highqualityindige- WANTED Complete sys- m - experienced technicianfor Grenada seekingallaround Marine EngineeringCo,in IMMEDIATELY MARINE TECHNICIANWANTED mail [email protected] Aragorn Tel(284)495-1849E- a lonewelder!Infocontact my. Stillinterestedtohearfrom employment inaUS$econo- boat andlookingforshoreside inclination livingontheirown dates areacouplewithartistic in TrellisBay,BVI.Idealcandi- required atourbusyArtStudio manager andshopassistant employees.Welder/Workshop looking for2 TORTOLA -ARAGORNSSTUDIO [email protected] (284) 494-6972E-mail experience preferred.FaxCV background withmarine control issues.Mechanical the abilitytohandlequality and costaccountingskills, al skills,projectmanagement claims, strongcommunication- reports andpreparewarranty skills, abilitytowriteservice have excellentorganizational Road Town,Tortola,BVI.Must # DETSRLOCATIONPG ADVERTISER Respected ah hpigLd K11 42 20 29 Venezuela UK Martinique 48 Bequia 42 46 St.Vincent Yacht ShippingLtd. Margarita Xanadu Marine Martinique 26 Walliabou Anchorage 27 Wallace &Co 24 48 Volvo 33 51 Grenada Voiles Assistance VirginGorda Grenada 11 44 Virgin GordaYachtHarbour Carriacou St.Vincent Vemasca Tyrrel BayYachtHaulout Germany 34 Bequia Grenada Turbulence Sails 26 True BlueBay 50 Trade WindsCruising 48 Tortola Tikal Arts&Crafts Grenada St.Thomas 25 SVG Air 19 Carriacou Superwind 16 St.Thomas YachtSales St.Maarten 55 47 Spice IslandMarine Panama Martinique Sopers Hole Guadeloupe Simpson BayMarina Silver Diving UK Shelter BayMarina Sevenstar YachtTransport Sea Services Sea andSail classifieds areEC$20/US$8. ings/photos accompanying numbers incount.Linedraw- include name,addressand EC$1/US 40¢perword– web.mac.com/famouspotatoes2 follow heradventurenowat Sale Summer2008.Youcan Admiral 38Catamaran.For FAMOUS POTATOES Tel (473)439-2049 [email protected] in GrenadaCVto;E-mail ty ofanestablishedcompany ent techlookingforthestabili- Ideal forcruiserorindepend- water makers&refrigeration. diesel, electrical,electronics, CLASSIFIED ADS BOAT FORSALE 2005 # FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 55 19-10-2007 15:39:50 is an art Yacht transport Yacht www.sevenstar.nl YACHT TRANSPORT OVER SEVEN SEAS headoffice tel; +31 20 4488590 • uk representative tel; +44 23 80223671 tel; +31 20 4488590 • uk representative headoffice tel; May 10-20 2008 > Southampton Tortola > Palma & La Spezia Tortola IJMUIDEN • SOUTHAMPTON • GIBRALTAR • MALLORCA • FORT LAUDERDALE • CARIBBEAN LAUDERDALE • FORT • MALLORCA • GIBRALTAR SOUTHAMPTON • IJMUIDEN 071015-01B Sevenstar ad CC.indd 1 Published by Compass Publishing Limited, St. Vincent & the Grenadines, and printed by Trinidad Publishing Company Limited