Guadeloupe's Triskell

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DECEMBER 2007 NO. 147 The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore

Guadeloupe’s Triskell Cup

See story on page 11 TIM WRIGHT / PHOTOACTION.COM DECEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 2 DECEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 3

ROBINSON Ad Sales - Debra Davis, Ad Sales & Distribution Stéphane Legendre Distribution - Bryan Lezama Distribution - Gladys Jones Ad Sales & Distribution - Isabelle Prado Grenada/Carriacou/Petite Martinique: Ad Sales & Distribution - Bob and Judi Goodchild Tel: (473) 443-5784, [email protected] Guadeloupe: Ad Sales & Distribution - Patty Tomasik Distribution - Wayne Barthelmy Ad Sales & Distribution - Jack Dausend Cartoons ...... 37 Cruising Kids’ Corner ...... 38 Dolly’s Deep Secrets...... 38 Book Reviews ...... 40 Cooking with Cruisers...... 47 Readers’ Forum ...... 49 Classified Ads...... 52 Advertisers’ Index ...... 52 What’s On My Mind ...... 53 Calendar...... 54 [email protected] St. Thomas/USVI: Tel: (340) 774 7931, [email protected] St. Vincent & the Grenadines: Tel: (784) 457-3527, [email protected] Tortola/BVI: Tel: (284) 494-2830, Fax: (284) 494-1584 Trinidad: Tel: 868) 634-2622 Mob: (868) 620-0978 [email protected] Venezuela: Tel: (58-281) 265-3844 Tel/Fax: (58-281) 265-2448, [email protected] Tel/Fax: + 590 (0) 5 90 84 53 10 Mob: + 590 (0) 6 90 49 45 90 [email protected] Martinique: Tel: (0596) 596 68 69 71, Mob: + 596 (0) 696 93 26 38 [email protected] St. Lucia: Tel: (758) 584-1292, [email protected] St. Maarten/St. Barths/St. Kitts & Nevis: Distribution - Eric Bendahan (599) 553 3850 Ad Sales - Stéphane Legendre Tel/Fax: + 590 (0) 5 90 84 53 10 Mob: + 590 (0) 6 90 49 45 90 Antigua to Azores One boat’s passage...... 34 Plank Walk The Rio Dulce way...... 28 But the content of advertisements, columns, articles and letters to the editor are the ISSN 1605 - 1998 DEPARTMENTS www.caribbeancompass.com is published monthly by DECEMBER 2007 • NUMBER 147 DECEMBER 2007 • We support free speech! sole responsibility of the advertiser, writer or correspondent, and Compass Publishing Ltd. accepts no responsibility for any statements made therein. Letters and submissions may be edited for length and clarity. Compass Publishing Ltd. accepts no liability for delayed distribution or printing quality as these services are supplied by other companies. ©2007 Compass Publishing Ltd. All rights reserved. No reproduction, copy or transmission of this publication, except short excerpts for review purposes, may be made without written permission of Compass Publishing Ltd. welcomes submissions of short articles, news items, photos and drawings. Distribution - Hubert J. Winston Distribution - Norman Faria

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BEV BATE BEV Compass Agents by Island: Antigua: Tel (268) 774-6657 [email protected] Barbados: Tel/Fax: (246) 426-0861 [email protected] Curaçao: Tel: (5999) 767-9042, Fax: (5999) 767-9003, [email protected] Dominica: Dominica Marine Center, 24 Victoria Street, Roseau, Tel: (767) 448-2705, [email protected] Caribbean Compass See Writers’ Guidelines at www.caribbeancompass.com. Send submissions to [email protected]. Business Briefs...... 6 Eco-News...... 9 Regatta News ...... 12 Meridian Passage ...... 20 All Ashore… ...... 22 Destinations ...... 24 Compass Fiction ...... 35 Sailors’ Horoscope ...... 36 Island Poets ...... 36 Cruising Crossword ...... 37 Caribbean Compass Compass Publishing Ltd., P.O. Box 175 BQ, Bequia, St. Vincent and the Grenadines. Tel: (784) 457-3409, Fax: (784) 457-3410, [email protected] www.caribbeancompass.com Editor...... Sally Erdle [email protected] Assistant Editor...... Elaine Ollivierre [email protected] Advertising & Distribution...... Tom Hopman [email protected] Art, Design & Production...... Wilfred Dederer [email protected] Accounting...... Debra Davis [email protected] Venezuelan Smiles Cruisers help kids ...... 20 Yes, St. Vincent! A refreshing stop ...... 25 A Winner Meet racer Andrew Burke ...... 18 THOMAS HOPMAN THOMAS The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore Look at Sea Monthly The Caribbean’s —Continued on next page was held October 25th through 29th. Mr. King headed a delegation comprising the Consul General for St. Lucia in Miami, Kent Hippolyte, and Caribbean Marine Association and Marine Industries Association of St. Lucia President, Keats Compton. The party was hosted by Gordon Connell, Director of Association Services of the Marine Industries Association of South Florida. Mr. King is no stranger to the sea: his father sailed goes to press, all crew on that list are required to present a goes to press, all crew on that & Updates Compass

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Cover Photo: Tim Wright Triskell Cup, Guadeloupe 2007 Happy Holidays to all from Compass! Crew Visas for Netherlands Antilles Crew Visas for impact of the Netherlands Antilles to the Immigration legislation Recent changes nationalities Book in lieu of a visa for of the Seaman’s the previous acceptance (see requiring a visa As www.netherlandsembassy.org.uk/visas_mvvs/aruba_the/do_i_require_a_visa_0). this issue of St. Lucia’s PM Supports Yachting Sector St. Lucia’s PM Supports Yachting Caribbean can become a premier world yachting Keats Compton reports: The Prime Minister of St. Lucia, the Hon. Stephenson King, destination, according to the Boat Show which following his visit to the 48th Annual Fort Lauderdale International Anchoring at Princess Margaret Bay, Bequia Anchoring at Princess Margaret requests that yachts anchoring at Princess Margaret The Bequia Tourism Association meters (140 yards) off the beach as this beach is a Bay, Bequia, stay at least 130 visitors (including yachtspeople) and residents. designated swim area for both greatly appreciated. Your cooperation would be [email protected] For more information contact or visit www.bequiatourism.com. visa for The Netherlands Antilles upon arrival. This visa can be obtained at almost visa for The Netherlands Antilles the world. any Dutch Consulate around Association has held meetings with the Island The St. Maarten Marine Trades in efforts to obtain a postponementGovernment of St. Maarten of the implementa- draft amendment is being circulated for discussion. tion of this new ruling. A relevant For more information visit www.smmta.com. on inter-island schooners. Appointed Prime Minister in September, Mr. King has on inter-island schooners. Appointed Prime Minister in September, as part of regional already committed himself to assisting to promote St. Lucia Association. yachting initiatives envisaged by the Caribbean Marine vendors on the possibility At the Florida show, the Prime Minister engaged hardware the skills transfer required of job placements for St. Lucians, with a view to achieving has placed yachting- to support the industry back home. The St. Lucia Government as the level of investment in related skills on its priority list for educational assistance, and Discovery at Marigot marinas in St. Lucia has risen rapidly, with The Landings Bay Marina, the largest Bay nearing completion. The recent acquisition of Rodney Yachting will push that full service marina on the island, by International Global of the main har- investment significantly higher. St. Lucia’s planned re-development facility will permit the con- bour at Castries into a dedicated cruise and yachting struction of additional purpose-built facilities. streamlined, and those St. Lucia’s Customs and Immigration procedures are being will be reviewed. The Prime deemed to be harmful to the island’s competitiveness Lucia’s attractiveness as a Minister expects that these initiatives will all enhance St. yachting friendly jurisdiction. For more information contact [email protected].

At the Ft. Lauderdale Boat Show, left to right: Keats Compton, President MIASL and CMA; Gordon Connell, Director of Association Services, MIASF, Charles Garner, President, IGY: Hon. Stephenson King, Prime Minister of St. Lucia Info DECEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 4 e-mail: [email protected]/68 Tel (784)457-3507/457-3527(evenings) (northern sideofAdmiraltyBay) Located oppositeG.Y.E. Come inandseeusforallyour etuatopen Restaurant 2 courses 45$EC, 2 courses SAILS &CANVASSAILS Other facilities: BIMINI &DODGER Marie &Luke, Open Monday Bar withfree including French chef to welcome 8 slipswith GRENADINES NEW FAMILY MARINA INGRENADA hisper Cove Marina W CUSTOM-MADE www.whispercovemarina.com BEQUIA ore 0E,children’s menu 60$EC, 3 courses ae,ie anr,bookexchange laundry, ice, water, e:(473) 4445296VHF69 Tel: you andyour crew! de cuisine: to Saturday from 10am’tillate from to Saturday electricity (220V/6A) evenings MondaytoSaturday from Wireless Internet access Internet Wireless a French couplewillbehappy Pick up and Drop off from town. from Pick off upandDrop frames atcompetitiveprices nteSuho Grenada In theSouthof SAILS &CANVAS 12º00.538 N-61º43.995W stainless steel REPRESENTATIVE needs For moreinformation,[email protected]. Bird MarinainChaguaramas,whichherecentlysold. lovingly makessurealltheropesareproperlycoiledincockpitatHumming navigation from1984to1986.“We’vekeptthisonethelongest,”saysHaroldashe ried theLaBordesandtheirtwoyoungsons,PierreAndre,onanothercircum- the round-bottomed After theygaveaway Bird I The LaBordeshadearlierbuiltasmallerplywoodketch,the21-footlong boat anditshistoricvoyage. tors, includingschoolchildren,withavideopresentationaboutthebuildingof finally putondisplay.Itishopedthatasecretariatwillbeestablishedtoprovidevisi- tings. Someallowanceswillbemadeforthepublicinspectionprocesswhenitis The restorationisfaithfultotheoriginaldesign,includingallinteriorandexteriorfit- read aboutthedesigninanissueof The hard-chinedboatwasdesignedbyAmericanJohnB.Clarke.Haroldsaidhefirst the SouthQuayindowntownPortofSpain. wright, SherwinBobette,washiredtoworkon ment ofthethenMinisterCulture,restorationprojectstarted.Ayoungship- In 2005,withtheassistanceofTrinidadiangovernmentandpersonalinvolve- ten”, asHaroldtold who madeittheirroost,tooktoll.Intime,theboatbecame“completelyrot- yard forseveralyears.Theelements,andthelocal a while, After beinggiventotheCoastGuardforsailtrainingandusedthatpurpose Blue award, theTrinityCross,fortheirachievement.Haroldwroteabook, and anappreciativecrowd.TheLaBordeswereawardedTrinidad&Tobago’stop back homeattheChaguaramasdocksbythenPrimeMinister,Dr.EricWilliams, in suchahome-builtcraft,wasfrom1969to1973.Theregrandwelcome The LaBordes’historiccircumnavigationoftheworld,firstbyCaribbeanpeople next year. La BordeandhiswifeKwailanin1965,itshouldbereadyforpublicviewingearly Port ofSpain,Trinidad.BuiltontheshoresGulfPariabyTrinidadiansHarold 1960s/1970s period,the40-footplywoodketch Norman Fariareports:TheCaribbeanregion’smostcelebratedcruisingboatofthe Trinidad’s frompreviouspage —Continued Trinidad’s circumnavigating , aboutthevoyage. , whichtheysailedtoEnglandwithcountrymanKelvinWongChongin1960. Humming BirdII Humming BirdII Compass Humming BirdIII Humming BirdII was storedattheTrinidad&TobagoSailingAssociation Being Restored Humming BirdII last Juneinaninterview. Yachting , alsoaketch.Itismadeoflocalteak.car- , theystartedonanevenlargerboat.Thiswas magazine andsentawayfortheplans. , circa1970inthePacific Humming BirdII Humming BirdII corbeaux —Continued onnextpage —Continued (scavenging birds) at theMuseumon , isbeingrestoredin All Oceans Humming DECEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 5 , PM to 5:00 we welcome AM Caribbean Compass aboard new advertiser Le Phare Bleu Marina of Grenada, page 15. Good to have you with us! Monday to Thursday. Admission EC$5. Monday to Thursday. Admission For more information contact 457-1291. [email protected], (784) Got Stuff for Carriacou? hurricane-season hide- As boats move north from their and North America, outs and arrive from Europe Carriacou Children’s please remember that the accept contributions of Education Fund will gratefully goods; treasures of clean, used clothing; household items. These items will the bilge; and handmade craft fund-raising in August, be auctioned at the annual directly preceding Carriacou Regatta Festival. Proceeds go to provide local needy children with school uniforms, textbooks, and lunch money. Contributions can be left at the Carriacou Yacht Club in Tyrrel Bay, Carriacou. For more information contact [email protected]. Welcome Aboard! In this issue of sailing for 30 years. During World War Two he served World War 30 years. During sailing for General Douglas under minesweeper on a wooden Said Marden: the Pacific. on duty in MacArthur the US I learned in about the sea I learned “Everything as a teenager.” I joined Navy which told Marden from the Azores, his voyage Recounting storm. “I weather including a tropical of bouts of bad be the that one slip and it would knew all the while end,” he said. the Rodney will remain on the hard at Marden’s yacht spending the next ten months. After Bay Marina for to St. in Texas, he plans to return time with his family on sailing. pick up his boat and keep Lucia next year, in St. Vincent Amerindian Artifacts don’t miss a to explore St. Vincent, If you are planning Grenadines National visit to the St. Vincent & the exhibition at the Old Trust’s newly-opened permanent in Kingstown. The small Public Library, Heritage Square light on the richness of but fascinating display sheds existed on both St. the Amerindian culture that islands from around Vincent and the Grenadine arrival of the Island 160AD, up to and beyond the 10:00 Caribs around 1450AD. Open Cuthbert Didier said that in the decade that he had Cuthbert Didier said that in been at the marina, no one else of Marden’s age has sailed into the facility after single-handedly crossing the Atlantic. It’s not the first time that Marden, a Texan, has sailed long distances alone. Five years ago, for his 80th birth- day, he sailed from Texas to Trinidad, a distance of some 3,000 miles. The three-week voyage from the Azores was about 800 miles longer but Marden was not daunted when he set off after a brother who had promised to make the trip with him dropped out. A World War Two US Navy veteran, Marden has been anchorages” which are described in a safety and secu- in a safety and described which are anchorages” in at when clearing to cruisers to be given rity handout every night! are patrolling, And they really Livingston. visit http://riodulcechisme.com. information For more Solo 85 Crosses Atlantic Sailor at people At age 85, when most Ernie Seon reports: solo high- down, Bill Marden is a would be winding Bay Marden arrived in the Rodney seas adventurer. the in November after crossing Marina, St. Lucia, yacht. He the Azores alone in his 52-foot Atlantic from enough “because no one was foolish did it, he said, me”. Marina General Manager to come with , S/V Antares , said he was awak- Antares by the sound of his dinghy rubbing by the sound of his dinghy AM with two men under arrest who had already —Continued page from previous normal groans were heard from the cruisers: “We’ve normal groans were heard will happen”, “I can done all this before”, “Nothing this case! Following the write the script.” Not true in a couple of VHF radios, donation from the cruisers of the Navy leaped into action. was published on the A report by Roy McNett which said, “Two local river’s blog, http://riodulcechisme.com, Navy early this men were arrested by the Guatemalan the act of attempting to morning [November 3rd] in motor from steal a dinghy and outboard anchored in front of Crow Bar Marina. anchored in front of Crow Bar “Henry Hauck, owner of ened at 3:30 Cops and Robbers on the Rio Dulce Robbers on Cops and on dinghy thefts Following some reports: Julia Bartlett coast, Caribbean Dulce, on Guatemala’s the Rio the Navy, Tourist meeting with organised a cruisers The service. tourist information Inguat, a Police and against the hull of his boat… Hauck discovered a against the hull of his boat… cayuka at the stern of his boat. ‘At the same moment, some shouting started, spotlights turned on and I heard the noise of a loading AK 47 (or something like that),’ Hauck noted. “The Guatemalan Navy patrol, commanded by Navy Officer Alferez Cardona, was also at the stern of Antares, cut halfway through a stainless steel security cable with a pair of bolt cutters which they tossed into the river when they realized they’d been discovered.” Julia adds: The Navy is now patrolling three “safe DECEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 6 dated onrequest. other worldwidedestinationscanalsobeaccommo- Northern Europe,FloridatoBrazil,andDubai.All be regularconnectionsfromtheCaribbeanto provided foralloperations.” cargo fromstarttofinish,withitsownloadingmasters managing theloadingandunloadingofsuchprecious ment, whileDYThastheextendedknowledgebasefor industry. BBChasthespecializedvesselsandequip- why theDYT/BBCallianceisidealforyachttransport said SvendAndersen,BBC’sManagingDirector.“Thisis greater sensitivitywithrespecttotheliftandstowage,” respect tothenecessaryliftinggear,theyalsorequirea sailings andmoreflexibility.” yacht transportbusiness,offeringourclientsextra tonnage, DYTwillmanagetheiroperationsforthe house inglobalshipping.Whileitwillprovidethe nation wedonotservicedirectly.BBCisapower- scheduling flexibilityortheabilitytogetadesti- there willalwaysbeclientswhoneedadditional trips acrosstheAtlantic.“Thereality,however,isthat Express, “super ship”,the685.7-foot(209-meter) that thecompanybuiltitsrecentlycommissioned said DYTPresidentClemensvanderWerf,adding oped itin1987,isusedbynootheryachtcarriers,” raised tosomewhatofanartformsincewedevel- vessels worldwide. option throughBBC,whichoperatesmorethan140 while addinganalternativelift-on/lift-offservice service withitsownfleetoffoursemi-submersibleships ue offeringitsuniquefloat-on/float-offyachttransport ry yachts.ThisstrategicallianceallowsDYTtocontin- clients —namelyownersandcaptainsofprivateluxu- Logistic toexpandglobalshippingoptionsforits cooperative partnershipwithBBCChartering& For moreinformationseeadonpage43. Among thenewroutesaccommodatedbyBBCwill “While yachtsaresimilartootherheavy-liftcargowith “DYT’s float-on/float-offmethod,whichhasbeen Dockwise YachtTransport(DYT)hasannounceda Dockwise AnnouncesStrategicAlliance Business Briefs to meetthedemandformoreDYTtransport Yacht through theMinistryofTradeandIndustry. required tosubmitareportCabinetonitsprogress agencies andindustrystakeholders.Thecommitteeis Company, theTobagoHouseofAssembly,keystate Development Authority,theTourism comprises representativesoftheChaguaramas plan, whichwaspreparedin2005.Thiscommittee ordinate theimplementationofindustry’sstrategic who isalsotheGeneralManagerofYSATT—toco- Committee —currentlychairedbySharonMcIntosh, to theestablishmentofaYachtingSteering development.” SomuchsothatCabinethasagreed (and) …wearedeeplycommittedtothissector’s component inthecountry’sdiversificationefforts… one ofseventargetedindustrieswhichformamajor on tosay:“Governmenthasidentifiedyachtingas conducive toconductingbusiness.”TheMinisterwent suppliers andconsumersinadynamicenvironment services offeredtoboatowners,bringingtogether only showofitskindintheregionthathighlights Industry, openedtheshownotingthatitwas“…the has tooffer. boaters themarineservicesandaccessoriesTrinidad participated toshowoffbothlocalandvisiting Twenty-nine companiesoccupying34boothspaces 2007 attheSweetWaterMarinainChaguaramas. (YSATT) heldtheir5thMarineTradesShowinOctober The Hon.KennethValley,MinisterofTradeand The YachtServicesAssociationofTrinidad&Tobago 5th MarineTradeShowinTrinidadAnotherSuccess changing frompaper-basedtodigitalproducts. Robinson saidtheworldofmarinenavigationwas President’s DayForumonOctober16inLondon, Institute ofMarineEngineeringScience&Technology global vectorchartservicenextyear.Speakingatthe by reaffirmingtheUKHO’sintentiontolaunchanew Robinson hasoutlinedadigitalfutureforhisorganisation or call(473)536-1560. boat owners. understand theneedsandrequirementsofother yacht ownerhimself,Nickisperfectlyplacedto extensive technicalexperienceandasalong-term on abird’s-eye-viewtouroftherainforest.Withhis of thatisland’sAerialTram,whichcarriespassengers ture inDominicaandmanagedthefinalconstruction He hasbuiltnumerousjettiesandharbourinfrastruc- managed marineconstructionandsalvagevessels. The MooringsinSt.Luciaandpreviouslyowned the Caribbean.Nickwastechnicalmanagerof has 20yearsofexperienceinthemarineindustry design itemstosuitcustomers’needs. will worktocustomers’specifications,andrepairor Specializing instainlesssteelandaluminium,TechNick Island MarineServiceBoatyard,PricklyBay,Grenada. fabrication andweldingbusinesslocatedinSpice year’s show,[email protected]. over anhour. with aquestionandanswersessionwhichlastedfor Weatherman EricMackieendedthedemonstrations show visitorshowto“dancethecocoa”. cocoa farmersfromtheLopinotareaofTrinidadto put onanotherinteractivedemonstrationbybringing treating apieceofgelcoatonthespot.TrumpTours showed offtheirsandingandpolishingsystemsby tions heldatvariousintervalsthroughouttheshow.3M ing andyachtingenthusiasts,withindustrydemonstra- UK HydrographicOfficeChiefExecutiveMike Digital FutureforUKHO? For [email protected], TechNick isownedandrunbyNickWilliams,who TechNick YachtServicesLtd.isanewengineering, TechNick YachtServicesOpensinGrenada For moreinformationortoreservespacefornext The showwasattendedbyapproximately300boat- —Continued onnextpage —Continued DECEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 7 Mustique Basil’s Bar Basil’s Ministry of Tourism DAWN’S BEACH CAFE DAWN’S Steel Pan Orchestra On Saturday 26th the evening will have both a local the evening will have both On Saturday 26th Sunday at De Reef in Lower Bay will be the ever- Advance tickets (EC$50 per night, or EC$85 for a For more information visit Mac’s off, as last year, with a Thursday evening performance evening a Thursday year, with as last off, from St. Vincent Steel Orchestra 13-piece Elite by the night, the Mustique On Friday Hotel. at the Frangipani anyone who to Bequia — and comes Blues Festival Blues Band and her London Dana Gillespie has seen know before will in Bequia guests perform and special to be missed. this is a night not Band flavour, with Bequia String and international Country music Bequia-style from The music, country and reggae bands from St. Vincent Relatives, and Band of acts will be joined by an All-Star Bequia. These world and musicians from around the Bequia-loving Saturday guests to make an un-missable many surprise sensational by popular demand, the line-up. Returning Band from and the Mount Gay Blues Toby Armstrong night with another show- Barbados will close Saturday stopping performance. popular Music Fest Jazz & Blues Jam and Mount Gay Surprise Party on the Beach — free for all, and the climax to a great weekend of music. If you’d like to jam with other musicians on Sunday afternoon, please contact the organisers and they will try to fit you in! two-night ticket) will be available from mid-December from the Bequia Tourism Association office and Lina’s Delicatessen in Bequia, or Quik Print in St. Vincent. www.bequiatourism.com/bequiamusicfest or e-mail [email protected]. BEACH RESORT ELITE Pizzeria KEEGAN’S & guest artistes ADMIRALTY TRANSPORT - world-famous 13-piece DAVID MAXWELL MUSTIQUE BLUES FESTIVAL [email protected] www.bequiatourism.com/bequiamusicfest

- Reggae, Calypso & more - Country & Western on Sundays. PM HONKY TONICS & FRIENDS STEEL PAN CELEBRATION

Mustique Blues Festival… Blues Mustique Producer Basil Gillespie and Director Dana Creative Blues Festival begins Wednesday The Mustique Each year the Mustique Blues Festival performances Each year the Mustique Blues For more information visit www.basilsbar.com. .…and Bequia Music Fest The four-day 5th Annual Bequia Music Fest (Thursday For those who can’t make it to Mustique, the Blues can’t make it to Mustique, For those who Charles have just announced the line up for the 13th the line have just announced Charles Bar in held at Basil’s Festival to be Mustique Blues Annual Jones, Carvin year are: Ronnie Appearing this January. Steve Papa George, Gillespie, Prather, Dana Jones, Zach Brunetaud, London Blues Band: Julien Simpson and the Darby Zaitz, Jeff Walker, Mike Paice, Dino Baptiste, Jake Dennis. Morena. Special Guest: Felix Todd and Enrico and at Basil’s Bar with a Blues Jump-Up January 23rd continues nightly until Wednesday barbecue, and shows special family “Sunset Blues” February 6th with at 5:00 25th, and then on St. Vincent the following weekend. 25th, and then on St. Vincent are recorded and released as a CD, and the 2007 CD is on sale now at Basil’s Bar, or through www.basilsbar.com. With all of the performing artists donating their services, the revenue from the CDs and from the Blues Festival itself go towards funding secondary education for the youths of St. Vincent through the Basil Charles Educational Foundation. More than 30 children are currently benefiting from the funds raised through the Blues Festival. January 24th through Sunday January 27th) will kick Festival will be playing in Bequia on Friday January playing in Bequia on Friday Festival will be It’s music time! In addition to hearing Dana Gillespie (left) and The Country Relatives (right) in the Grenadines next month, hearing Dana Gillespie (left) and The Country Relatives (right) It’s music time! In addition to See Calendar on page 54 from Jamaica to Carriacou throughout December and January. you can catch music festivals Ronnie Jones, Carvin Jones, Zach Prather, Papa George, Steve Simpson Ronnie Jones, Carvin Jones, Zach Prather, Papa George, For more info on events Thursday through Sunday see our last-minute flyer! For Phone: (784) 458 3286 COUNTRY RELATIVES KYRON BAPTISTE COLIN PETERS & FRIENDS DANA GILLESPIE AND THE LONDON BLUES BAND: Mike Paice, Darby Todd & Enrico Morena Julien Brunetaud, Dino Baptiste, Jake Zaitz, Jeff Walker, Featuring: Blues Night featuring artistes from the Sat 26th January - De Reef, Lower Bay at 8.30pm From Bequia: KINGS OF STRINGS From Barbados: & THE MOUNT GAY BLUES BAND TOBY ARMSTRONG Plus “All-Star” Band - Blues & Jazz pianist Sun 27th January - De Reef, Lower Bay at 1.00pm Blues & Jazz Jam Session - “All Star” Band & guest performers! Plus Bequia’s own - From Barbados - Mount Gay Rum - Big Surprise Party and Finale Performance Thurs 24th January - Frangipani Hotel from 8.30pm Thurs 24th January - Frangipani Hotel From St. Vincent - Bay at 8.30pm Fri 25th January - De Reef, Lower

BEQUIA MUSIC FEST BEQUIA MUSIC

Publishing Ltd.

Bequia Tourism Association presents: Association Bequia Tourism L’Auberge L’Auberge Phone: (784) 458 3286 Phone: (784) 456 2217 (EC$60 at the door)

De Reef, Lower Bay) Tickets available at: Tickets des Grenadines

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Bequia Tourism Office Bequia Tourism January 24 - January 27, 2008 January 24 - January Quik-Print, St. Vincent (Friday & Saturday, 2-NIGHT TICKET EC$85 SINGLE TICKET EC$50 5 The He also highlighted that the UKHO, with its the UKHO, highlighted that He also vector to start trials of a new global “We are about quality that the availability and Robinson explained by International “The principles established resources, Although the UKHO has significant The UKHO is currently a Ministry of Admiralty brand of navigational products and servic- and products brand of navigational Admiralty in success remain a commercial to es, is determined future. this digital the first we will make available during service which form the he announced. “This will half of next year,” services of future products and basis for a number few years.” over the next as quickly charts had not improved of ‘official’ vector and wide- the maritime community as expected by potential has yet to occur, despite spread adoption safety advantages. member states in vector Hydrographic Organization than in paper and charting are somewhat different nation from charting the effectively prevent any one on to add that world,” said Robinson. He went that where they have “although the UKHO considers nations are best placed ‘the capability’, sovereign (the UKHO) are to chart their own waters, we that base offering our services to take value navigational data and add and provide with our world-class cartographers, mariner that the products and services to the mariner deserves.” the challenge of mov- Robinson acknowledged that test its capability. ing to a digital world would from industry in a “We are going to need assistance original equipment number of different ways; from and software com- manufacturers, system integrators change but there is time, panies. The world is going to if we plan and invest in our people.” Defence Trading Fund but it is undergoing a status review which may see all or part of the organisation become a Government-Owned Company; such a change in status could possibly increase its ability to compete commercially. Robinson was keen to stress, however, that despite the organisation’s growing commercialisation, the UKHO’s primary objective would remain to support the Royal Navy. “We supply 70 percent of all charts and publications sold to merchant shipping, but the Royal Navy remains our largest and most important customer.” —Continued page from previous DECEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 8 Our stock,quality,price,know-howandfishingexperienceisunsurpassed YOUR #1CHOICEINFISHINGGEAR Mustad Hooks Penn &Diawa FISHING &DIVINGGEAR Anglers Lures Rods &Reels TACKLE SHOP TEL: (784)458-3420FAX:458-3797 LULLEY‘S Wire, Floats,Nets,Twines,Ropes EMAIL: [email protected] Visit usforallyourneeds DUTY FREE Foul WeatherGear Rigged &Unrigged Fresh Bait Leaders SERVING FISHERMENAND FRONT STREET WEST INDIES YACHTSPEOPLE BEQUIA SINCE 1950 Collectable Knives Courtesy Flags & DivingGear Snorkeling and afaxtransmissionreportdoesn’tindicatewhatdocumentwasactuallysent.) that youcanprintoutanon-lineformwithouteverhavingsubmitteditelectronically, stamped print-outfromanInternetcaféorafaxtransmissionreport.(Notwithstanding attempts tocomply;attimesofficersrequired“proof”ofcomplianceintheforma ports ofentryweremoreunderstandingthanothersvisitors’unsuccessfulon-line pers tocomplywithAPIS.Enforcementwassporadic:ImmigrationofficersatsomeSVG with nopriorconsultationorannouncement—unexpectedlybeganaskingyachtskip- their holesatrandom,alsoinOctoberSt.Vincent&theGrenadines—likeAntigua, in OctoberdroppedanymentionofAPISforyachtslessthan100nettons. recognized thepotentialdamageAPIScoulddotoitsvaluableyachttourismsectorand Antigua &BarbudaMarineTradesAssociationinparticular,soon that thiskindoftime-consumingredtapecouldquicklystrangleittodeath. behind hotelsbutaheadofcruiseships.Anyonewithknowledgeyachttourismknew being thesecondmosteconomicallyimportantformoftourisminEasternCaribbean, were alsosignificantlylengthenedifAPISwasrequired.Yachttourismisrecognizedas the form—oftenwhilepayingfortimeatanInternetCafé.Clearanceprocedures four hourstoaccessthewebsite(www.caricomeapis.org)andfigureouthowcomplete have beenwelldocumented,withyachtskippersreportedlystrugglingforanythingupto comply withAPISregulations. plex Immigrationformonline.Atthatpoint,onlyAntiguahadbeguntoaskyachts about beingasked,unexpectedly,togoanInternetcaféfilloutanewandcom- it wasinAugust,whenyachtskippersclearingoutofAntiguabegancomplaining effect onFebruary1st,2007,thefirstanyoneinyachtingcommunityheardabout passport numbers,andthevesseloraircraft’sdatesexacttimesofdeparturearrival. out adetailedformwhichasksforinformationsuchaspassengers’names,nationalitiesand carriers —includingyachtsarrivingat,anddepartingfromeachmemberstate. to CARICOM’sJointRegionalCommunicationCentreinBarbadosforALLairandsea COM, passedlegislationrequiringAdvancePassengerInformationtobetransmitted on [email protected]. Compass ised toworkwiththeirindividualGovernmentsuntilapracticalsolutionhasbeenachieved. some ofthesecountriesstillhavethelawsonbooks. Grenada andGuyana—neverenforcedAPIScomplianceforyachts,butatleast ing CARICOMcountriesinvolved—Jamaica,St.Kitts&Nevis,Dominica,Lucia, clearing outofBarbadosinNovemberwereaskedtofillAPISforms. Grenadines, pendingreview. requirement foryachtshasbeentemporarilysuspendedinSt.Vincent&the situation asourCaricomneighbours.” pension ofcompliancewith[APISforyachts]sothatweare,atworst,inthesame happens. IntheinterimallthatweandCMAareaskingforisformalsus- space initiatives…howeveritwillbesometimebeforethisbecomesareality,if regard. Weapplaudthemostrecentdebateoncreationof[CARICOM]single ly andsporadicallyenforcedhasnothingotherthannegativeconnotationsinthis continue itssustainablegrowth.The[API]legislationcurrentlybeingonlymarginal- tion, stating:“ThisAssociationobviouslywouldliketoseeouryachtingindustry the relevantMinistersofGovernmentonNovember1stconcerningAPISlegisla- ernment theirentryfees. out, takingtheriskthattheirpaperswouldnotbecheckedandcostingSVGgov- the Grenadinesorwoulddoso.Othersnodoubtcameherebutavoidedclearingin Numerous yachtownershavetold But likethearcadegame“Whac-A-Mole”,inwhichplasticmolefigurespopupfrom Due totheeffortsofCaribbeanMarineAssociation(CMA)ingeneral,and The difficultiesthattheaveragerecreationalsailorhaswithAPIsystemasitstands Although thisAdvancePassengerInformationSystem(APIS)wassupposedtogointo The formcanbesubmittedelectronicallyorbyprintingitoutandfaxingit. By registeringonawebsite,themastersofsaid“airandseacarriers”aretofindfill In early2007,tenmemberstatesoftheCaribbeanEconomicCommunity,CARI- Editor’s note:TheSt.LuciaMinistryofTourismcontactgiveninlastmonth’s The CaribbeanMarineAssociationanditsnational-levelmemberassociationshaveprom- Trinidad &Tobago’sAPISlegislationlapsedattheendofJune2007.Theremain- But westillseemtobeingplayingWhac-a-Mole:we’vejustlearnedthatyachts On November21st,SVG’sChiefImmigrationOfficertold The St.Vincent&theGrenadinesRecreationalMarineTradesAssociationwroteto is incorrect.YoucansendcommentsregardingtheeffectAPISwouldhave Red TapeforYachts Comes andGoes Compass they beganby-passingSt.Vincent& Compass that theAPIS DECEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 9

—Continued on next page

Seventy species (a total of over 700 animals) are on The Karet medical care center for sea turtles is locat- Cayman Island Divers Reduce Waste Island Divers Cayman Cayman, recently Grand in West Bay, Divetech programme, of this creative Prior to the implementation 12 flats of purchased about eight to “Previously, we Project Islands Chosen for Climate-Change Adaptation to Climate A Special Programme for adaptation measures The project aims to design pilot Specifically, the project will examine, among other The project seeks to produce knowledge of global value For more information visit www-wds.worldbank.org. Guadeloupe Aquarium Stéphane Legendre reports: The only aquarium Created 20 years ago, more than 1.6 million visitors Since 2004, two million Euros have been invested to sharks, opened in July 2007. The sharks can be viewed through a 7.5 metre (25 foot) long, curved methyl-methacrylate glass window, weighing four tons. A new extension is planned for 2012. display: crabs, seahorses, corals, piranhas, turtles, etcetera. There are some stars of course, like the ten black-tip sharks. (The question which comes to mind is always: are Caribbean sharks dangerous? The answer is no; among the 465 species of sharks, only five or six are potentially dangerous to man.) ed on the premises of the aquarium. Each year a number of injured turtles are successfully treated here, marked and released. As all sea turtles are endangered, the public is reminded to not eat their flesh nor their eggs; not buy articles produced with their shells;… announced a new programme for its diving guests to its diving guests for a new programme announced Divetech the environment. part to preserve do their pur- available for sport bottles, reusable is offering of a the purchase US$6. With by guests for chase water for guests then get free drinking sport bottle, a souvenir of their stay, along with the entire length item to take home. water a week, buy ten to 12 bottles of guests would easily it also to being a great “green” practice, so in addition saving to the resort’s visitors. results in a cost said Nancy water a week,” 16-ounce bottled to over of Divetech. “This amounted Easterbrook going to the landfill each 10,000 plastic water bottles customers convert, that year. Even if only half of our volume of plastic sent to still significantly reduces the the landfill.” Dominica, Saint Lucia Change (SPACC) has selected to implement pilot and St. Vincent & the Grenadines the impacts of cli- adaptation measures addressing by the World Bank, mate change. SPACC is funded other donor countries. participating countries and impacts of climate change to reduce expected negative areas, and implement pilot on marine and near-shore Reducing climate-change adaptation investments. in protection of marine and impacts will primarily result prevention of land degrada- terrestrial biodiversity and It will also induce eco- tion, especially along the coast. fisheries, agriculture and nomic benefits in the tourism, forestry sectors, help maintain the resource base upon which these economic activities rely, and promote climate-resilient sustainable development. The experience gained through these local-level activities will assist and inform the policy decision-making process and is expected to influence the enactment of climate-resilient sustainable development policies. things, destruction of coastal ecosystems by increased sea level rise and salinization; strategies to protect biodiversity in coral reefs; and the strengthening of key infrastructure to withstand intensified hurricane winds and storm surges. on how to implement adaptation measures in small island states that can be applied in other countries in the region, and even for islands in other parts of the world. between Curaçao and Saint Thomas, the Guadeloupe Aquarium should not be missed. Due to its central location in the Eastern Caribbean, it is easily reached. have already enjoyed its 1200 square metres of underwater sea-life. Tourists represent 84 percent and school children the rest. A shop and a restaurant are on site. increase this aquarium’s capacity and attractiveness. An extra 220 square metres, including a basin con- taining 250,000 liters of water dedicated to Caribbean

Eco-News The Rotary Club of Antigua Sundown took action. It In December 2005, the first waste recycling facility Batteries contain dangerous acid which leaks into The English Harbour area was visited by over We aim to launch an awareness campaign for visit- Anyone wanting to volunteer help can contact me at

Recycling in Antigua Recycling in Antigua, reports: On a small island like Lucy Tulloch waste is dumped at our Currently, over 100 tons of Management Authority The National Solid Waste Caribbean set out to establish a recycling processing facility and to launch a national recycling program with funding of US$90,000 raised from the United Nations GEF Small Grants Program and the British High Commission to cover equipment costs and public education. In-kind contributions were received from the government in the form of tax concessions and a building. The private sector contributed towards installation and building improvements. The NSWMA now assists in collection and public education initiatives. in the Leeward Islands was opened in Antigua. The facility receives plastic bottles, crates, aluminium cans, non-ferrous scrap, lead acid batteries and now printer cartridges and mobile phones. In the first year, over 150,000 pounds of plastics and 25,000 pounds of scrap metal were received for recycling. The actual recycling process takes place overseas in Venezuela, Florida and even Peru. the soil and lead (a carcinogenic) persists in the soil forever. Discarded batteries are now banned at Cooks Sanitary Landfill but they can be taken to the Recycling Facility on Powell’s Industrial Estate just off the Airport Road. So far, over 9,000 used car and boat batteries have been sent to Venezuela, where the lead goes back into making new batteries. 3,000 yachts in 2006. That’s a lot of water bottles! We now have a big yellow recycling bin for plastics and aluminium cans for this area, next to the National Parks Garbage Facility in Falmouth Harbour. It is emptied regularly but we must ensure it is not mistakenly used for household rubbish. For recyclable plastics (clear plastics such as soda and water bottles; and cloudy-white plastics like milk and gallon water jugs), look for the triangle on the bottom of the container. All aluminium soda cans may be recycled, e.g. Coke, Sprite, beer, sodas. At the moment, we can’t recycle steel cans (e.g. tinned vegetable and fruits). ing yachts, local businesses, schools and residents. School children will be invited to be involved in teach- ing the adults, since the new generation are sometimes more informed on this subject than the oldies. It will take us some time to get into the habit of recycling, but now we have the facilities, I believe we can conserve our natural resources and hope to be one of the leaders in recycling in the islands. [email protected]. For more information contact Mario Bento at [email protected]. message of Reduce, Re-use and Recycle has been promoted through the years but it is only in recent times they have opted to facilitate the recycling initiatives of the private sector and local NGOs. of 108 square miles and a population of 80,000, sur- miles and a population of of 108 square is crucial to from tourism, recycling viving primarily manu- But with no primary the island’s preservation. and this can be an expensive facturing industries, challenging venture. increasing yearly. Most of landfills daily, and this is glass and metals, is non- the waste, such as plastics, remain in our soils or biodegradable. These materials environment where get transported into our marine and wildlife such as they adversely impact reefs endangered sea turtles. enhanced waste (NSWMA), has always advocated of the “3-Rs” policy. The diversion and the promotion DECEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 10 islands zealously.[But]giventheirfragility,thereis ness amongthelocalpopulation,whoguardtheir high-end tourists[with]goodenvironmentalaware- seen asa“beautifuldestinationforyachtingand for Japanonthewhalingissue.”TheGrenadineswere cruise ships,theproposedoilrefinery,andsupport which isthemajorproduct,andsolicitingofmore service topreservingandprotectingitswilderness, was givenabout“aseriousdichotomybetweenlip for sustainabletourismdevelopment.”Butwarning accommodation facilitiesalladdtotheopportunity art, craft,agro-basedproducts,andsmall-scale Dominica’s “lushmountains,indigenouspopulation, points (“minordifficulties”).Panelistsfeltthat Grenadines, tiedforeighthplaceintheworld,with77 that naturalbeauty.” ships inaday(almost2millionarrivalsyear)erases developed now,andthepressureofuptotencruise Caribbean, withsculptedpeaksanddeepcoves.It’sall time, St.Thomaswasthemostbeautifulislandin serious trouble”.Onepanelistwrote,“Onceupona “extremely attractive,natural,lushbeauty”. us-and-them atmosphere.”Positivefactorsincluded also limitsauthenticinteractionwithlocals,creating limited creationofathrivingrestaurantscene[and] majority ofthehotelroomsonisland),whichhas included “dependenceonall-inclusiveresorts(a positives”. Thenegativefactorsnotedbypanelists all criteriamedium-negativeoramixofnegativesand given asanexampleofisland“inmoderatetrouble: the mostpointsbeingbestscore. real estateprices. are sometimeslosingtraditionalfamiliestosoaring beach-poor islandsscorewell.Yeteventhese island, transformingit.Nosurprise,then,thatcloudy, Multiple cruise-shipcrowdscanalsooverwhelman get outofhandquickly,althoughthereareexceptions. sun-and-sand resorttourismdevelopmentthatcan selected islandsandarchipelagos. stewardship donatedtimetoreviewconditionsin111 of 522expertsinsustainabletourismanddestination survey, aidedbyGeorgeWashingtonUniversity.Apanel ly conductedtheirfourthannualDestinationScorecard Geographic CenterforSustainableDestinationsrecent- holding up, and now,‘tourismoverkill’. sure, climatechange,stormdamage,invasivespecies, — aretheonesmostvulnerabletopopulationpres- visit www.guadeloupeaquarium.com. Marina Bas-du-FortatGosier. interesting place.Itisconvenientlylocatednextto for teacherswhoareinterestedinmarinebiology. torate. Thisschoolalsoprovideseducationalsupport between theaquariumandGuadeloupe’sschooldirec- the aquariumeachyear,thankstoapartnership school) hashostedmorethan12,000childrenvisiting released, improvingGuadeloupe’smarinebiodiversity. of thousandsseahorsesincaptivity.Thesewerelater biologists havesuccessfullymanagedthereproduction carry outstudiesintheaquariumlaboratory.Aquarium turb themwhenseenatseaoronthebeach. them forjellyfish,eatandsuffocate);notdis- …not throwplasticbagsoverboard(turtlesmistake frompreviouspage —Continued Among thetopscorerswereDominicaand St. Thomas,USVI,earnedthelowestscore,37:“in Saint Lucia,ranking21stwithascoreof64,was Islands wereawardedpointsbythepanelists,with The resultsshowthatbeach-blessedislandsdraw To seehowtheintegrityofislandsaroundworldis The world’smostappealingdestinations—islands Avoiding ‘TourismOverkill’ For moreinformation If yousailtoGuadeloupe,don’tmissavisitthis Since 1993aprogramcalled“Ecoledemer”(sea Marine biologystudentscometotheaquarium E-mail: [email protected] Website:www.frangipanibequia.com frangipani HOTEL jump upThursday nights! jump upThursday the our famous and barbecue Traveler • RESTAURANT Don’t miss magazine andtheNational Tel: (784)458-3255 Fax:(784)458-3824 Bequia • BAR Martinique andtheCaribbean. a varietyofcontemporaryart,primarilyfrom profit organisationwhichaimstopromoteanddisplay on MartiniquewillcontinueuntilDecember9th. learning atthesametimevalueofrecycling. from uglylumpsofrubberandevenmadetheirown, with fascinationthecreationoffabulouscreatures took placewithprimaryschoolchildren,whowatched industrial metalandautomobilewaste. prises involvedinthecollectionandrecyclingof his workarecourtesyoftwolocaleco-friendlyenter- particularly recycling.Infact,allthematerialsusedin promote publicawarenessofenvironmentalissues, serious message;thepurposeofhisexhibitionisto stop andlay-by,ofraceschases. acters, withtheircubistappearance,storiesoftruck- and greatdistancesrun.Listentothe‘human’char- running ostrich:ithasinheritedthememoryofspeed around, hadthefreedomofopenroad;lookat that trulylookalive. sion andmovement,butalsoextraordinarycharacters living beings.Mostlyanimalsandbirds,fullofexpres- ing themtogether,layeruponlayer,toproducealmost lumps andstripsofrubbercutfromusedtyres,screw- his birthplace.Hethenputsfleshonthebonesusing niques acquiredattheshipyardinportofAngers, and skeletonsofhissculpturesusingmetalworktech- with hischosenmaterialforseveralyears. tyres totheartworldandhasbeenexperimenting other ‘recycling’artists,hewasthefirsttointroduce work isnoneotherthanusedtyres!Whilethereare wants thepublictosharehishumour. Here’s someonewhoobviouslyenjoyshisworkand entered theworldofBelgianartistSergeVandePut. in, asmileonmyfacewhichgotbroaderthedeeperI foot-tall penguinmadeoutof—no,surelynot!Iwent in LeMarin,Martinique,Iwasattractedbyathree- dsrated0711/islands.html. www.nationalgeographic.com/traveler/features/islan need forstrictdevelopmentcontrols.” For moreinformationvisitwww.kasauxartistes.com. La KasauxArtistesonRueDuquesnayisanon- An exhibitionofworkcompletedduringSerge’sstay With theirsupport,severaleducationalworkshops But behindthisfeastfortheeyesandspiritliesa These creatureshavehadapreviouslife,been Artisan aswellartist,heconstructsthestands No ordinarysculptorthis,therawmaterialforhis Dawn reports:AsIwalkedpastLaKasauxArtistes Art Pneuveau! For completeresultsvisit DECEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 11 after-parties magnifique , Archambault 40, Arnaud Meillac, Martinique , Melges 24, Philippe Leconte, Martinique , Surprise, Nicolas Gillet, Martinique , Muscadet, Eric Michel, Guadeloupe , CDK 28, Vincent de Meynard, Guadeloupe , Hobie Cat Tiger, Thomas Bohl, Guadeloupe , Opium 39, José Vilier, Saint Martin Triskell Cup 2007 Winners Triskell Cup Tip Top Sailing Styl Caraïbes Getelec Mac Village Super U Clippers Ship Caraïbe Gréement Beach Catamaran Class 1) Racing/Cruising Class 1) Cruising Class 1) Coastal Monohull Class 1) Multihull Class 1) Racing Class 1 1) Racing Class 2 1) In 2008, the Triskell Organization is planning to hold the Triskell Trophy race just race Trophy Triskell the to hold is planning Organization Triskell the In 2008, — it is a reality here is becoming work together we have to fact that The obvious under Claude 56? it was just a delight my experience on the Swan And what about 757, organiza- Marziou at (590 690) 495 contact Jean Michel For more information before Antigua Sailing Week so that boats coming from the south can conveniently from the boats coming Week so that Antigua Sailing before as a warm-up. Triskell Trophy using the in both events, participate the Lesser area of in the central of sailing future development for the very important investing is though Guadeloupe alone, and even can do it No single island Antilles. partners. infrastructure, we need a lot in nautical win, but never- enough wind for us to supervision. Not quite Thélier’s experienced sailing experience. theless a good or visit www.triskellcup.com. [email protected] A highly diverse fleet reveled in good racing and A highly diverse fleet reveled at Triskell Cup 2007 , which is cur- competed against Neptune , coming eighth overall Neptune . Flyer

Flyer and

by Stéphane Legendre King’s Legend, Pen Duick IV King’s Legend, Pen Duick IV

with a French Touch with a French

The weather for Triskell Cup 2007 was ideal, with clear skies and 13 to 18 knots The weather for Triskell Cup the level of competition Although fewer boats participated than last year’s 83, was on hand for Triskell Neil Forester, Antigua Sailing Week’s General Manager, When John Burnie, Swan Charter manager for the Caribbean, asked me if I would for the Caribbean, asked Swan Charter manager When John Burnie, Triskell Cup edition of the now-famous 2nd through 4th, the 7th From November on the water for those three days — family cruising We had very different boats round-the-world race veteran, We also had a Whitbread of easterly wind, slowly dying on the last day. After a first day of two races followed of easterly wind, slowly dying two races culminated in a special dinner and a show by a cocktail party, Day Two’s at two more races preceded the prizegiving ceremony with zouk music. On Sunday, first in all five races. Marina Bas-du-Fort. Five of the seven class winners placed professional. The jury had its remained high and the event is becoming increasingly enjoyed what is another share of protests, but after those were resolved, everyone prevailed every evening at strength of this event — the marvelous conviviality which the dinners and shows nicely Marina Bas-du-Fort around the open bar and during organized by Jean Michel Marziou’s team. Neil came to Guadeloupe as a 2007, also sailing aboard Claude Thélier’s Swan 56. in his perfect French, “Triskell friend, a neighbor and a keen observer. As Neil put it, In Antigua the overall level is Cup’s conviviality is something we have to learn from. sometimes with profession- higher, and the boats are different — more sophisticated, for the evenings’ events.” He al crews. We therefore lack a bit of this ‘French touch’ and a central position in adds, “We have a lot in common — geographical proximity events if we work together.” the Caribbean — and a mutual interest in having great after 130 days at sea, 11 days behind the winner, after 130 days at sea, 11 days like to sail on one of his boats, with local racing star Claude Thélier as skipper, for racing star Claude Thélier one of his boats, with local like to sail on I of course agreed. of the Triskell Cup regatta, the seventh edition Sac Guadeloupe, on the superb waters of the Cul de took place off Pointe-à-Pitre, This year’s event was interesting because, in addi- Marin in front of Gosier Island. racers, many fine-tuned boats came from neighboring tion to Guadeloupe’s avid Seventy boats turned up this year, including two from islands and mainland France. 12 from Martinique, two from France and one from Antigua, one from Dominica, seven classes. Saint Martin, competing in such as the Swans, racing boats like the beautiful boats, luxury charter boats a very interesting boat built in China: the Flying Tiger Archambault 40s, and also to realize this boat with carbon mast and boom, plus rac- from Antigua. It is amazing ing sails, costs only (?) US$59,000. Professionalism — contenders such as TRISKELL CUP 2007 CUP 2007 TRISKELL rently being restored. She came dressed with new sails, although the spinnaker is came dressed with new sails, although the spinnaker rently being restored. She the 1977-1978 Whitbread, missing at the moment. In DECEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 12 scraped byonthisoccasion.Hewasonepoint has wonthiseventsinceitsinceptionbutwhoonlyjust Silver. TheGoldFleetwinnerwasStephenLooser,who sailors goingintoGoldandthenewer ongoing supportovertheyears. lubricants andgases,whohavegivenyouthsailing The eventissponsoredbySol,thesuppliersoffuels, a seriesofsevenracesintheSimpsonBayLagoon. 17 youngsailorsfromSintMaartenandAnguillasailed showed anincreasinglyhighlevelofsailingabilityas Championships thattookplaceonOctober13th NEWS REGATTA LEAVE YOURBOATINSKILLEDHANDS MARINE MECHANICS(ALLMAKES)-HAULOUT24hBREAKDOWNSERVICE Technical shop Equipment forrent Haulout andhullsandblasting Breakdown service24/7 Engine diagnosis Boat Maintenance Mechanics andElectricity SERVICES The sailorsweresplitintotwofleets,withthetop The thirdannualSintMaartenOptimistSailing ‘High Level’St.MaartenOptiChamps Basic spareparts Genuine partsYanmar&Tohatsu GOODS Various lubricants Primers andAntifoulingInternational Electric parts,batteries Anodes,Shaft bearings Filtration FLEETGUARD SALES -REPAIRSMAINTENTENANCE Guadeloupe F.W.I. Marina PointaPitre97110 E-mail: Fax: +590590908651 Phone: +590590907137 (filters, impellers,belts) [email protected] Fleet championsEthanLoydandStephenLooser Scaffolding Vacuum cleanerforwater Diverse handtools Electrical tools High pressurecleaners150/250bars FOR RENT TOHATSU MARINE BETA be olderthan15yearstocompete. developed theirskillsthananyother.Sailorscannot in theworldandisclasswhichmoretopsailors moments withmanypositionchanges. Simpson BayLagooncreatedsomeinteresting numerous momentswhentheshiftywindsof astic crowdofparentswatchedtheracesand club coachandsailingteacherDanielPennings. newer faceswhoarecurrentlybeingtrainedbythe Club andthisregattasawanumberofyounger the trainingprogrammesofSintMaartenYacht Third wasMichaelCurtisofAnguilla. Anguilla, followedbyMaxHootsmansofSt.Maarten. contender inthefuture. Richardson ofAnguilla,whoislikelytobeastrong the afternoon.FourthplacewenttoKendall Ferron, whoblewhislunch-timeleadoftwopointsin race madethedifference.ThirdplacewenttoJolyon ahead ofZoePfeifferfromSwitzerlandandthelast Guadeloupe. Thisyear,aLandRoverFreelander2… November 3rdatMarinaBas-du-Fort,Pointe-à-Pitre, Guadeloupe FishingClubfromOctober30thto the LandRoverFishingFestivalwasorganizedby The Optimististhemostpopularsmallracingdinghy Andrew Rapleywastheraceofficerandanenthusi- Many oftheupcomingyoungsailorsareproducts The SilverFleetwaswonbyEthan“Rumple”Loydof Stéphane Legendrereports:Thesecondeditionof Guadeloupe’s LandRoverFishingFest —Continued onnextpage —Continued DECEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 13 —Continued on next page beach. Caribbean 1500 Arrives Safe in BVI All 69 boats sailing in this year’s Caribbean 1500 rally The conviviality between all types of sailors partici- The conviviality between all treated the rally The Saint François tourism office For more in formation on Triangle Emeraude Rally At each stop-over, participants had a treasure had stop-over, participants At each to fill in Dominica, the challenge was In Portsmouth, was organized on In Marie Galante, a conference arrived safely in Tortola, British Virgin Islands, after passages of seven to 14 days. The rally started in Hampton, Virginia, on November 4th. The 2007 fleet included participants from 20 states, four Canadian provinces, and Bermuda. Approximately half of the boats were manned by veteran ralliers. The boats averaged 46 feet in length. pating was obvious and this big family of around a pating was obvious and this good time. Their only hundred people had a really short and that the comment was that it was too think of a longer rally, with organizers should next year Another suggestion maybe a new island to discover. the winter season in was to hold it a bit later during Europe and North order to welcome sailors from to discover inter- America, who would be delighted about environmental esting places while learning issues the islands are facing. buffets at the start and participants very well, hosting the end of the rally. visit www.triangle-emeraude.com or e-mail: [email protected]. gave participants the opportunity to follow an envi- opportunity the gave participants the week. What during “Green Thread” ronmental mean? does it per a winner which determined points hunt, earning a small confer- at each stop overall. Plus, leg and organized and environment was ence on ecology from an environmental association by Terre d’Avenir, how do At Les Saintes the issue was: Guadeloupe. and tap problems of waste treatment we solve the water delivery? sites about the island while visiting a questionnaire Territory. Falls, Indian River or Carib such as Spanny the a warm welcome from The rally received here Association, and evenings Dominica Marine The Purple Turtle and Big were respectively spent at enjoying authentic Papa’s restaurants on the beach, island food and music. a buffet on Saint turtles and shore-birds before Louis’s , Région Guadeloupe In addition to sailing, the Triangle Emeraude Rally At Team T&T’s first regional regatta, they finished first regional regatta, they At Team T&T’s Rally a Gem! First Triangle Emeraude of this reports: The first edition Stéphane Legendre boats, beach catama- The event attracted cruising a fantastic machine which sails at 17 knots with only 8 knots of wind. Half way to Les Saintes from Saint François, left without any wind at all, it was a surprise to see a sea kayak overtaking us. But soon the wind came back and away we were sailing at 19 knots entering Las Saintes’ Terre de Haut bay before anchoring for the evening. Thélier’s 60-foot racing trimaran Rousseau — at the November 3rd and 4th event, 3rd — at the November Rousseau possi- was made in St. Maarten, at Simpson Bay raced Telly Paul Budget Marine, support from ble with the Public Limited, Insurance Services General and Dive & Marine All Services Corporation, Transport Tobago Limited. of Trinidad & Company the Sports from St. 12 races, the FKG team sixth overall. After the title, skipper Kim Frye took home Maarten led by from going to Women in M’Ocean with second place by Penny McIntyre. Barbados, skippered Club of by the Saint François Yacht rally, organized 3rd to took place from November Guadeloupe, from Saint-François to 11th. A fleet of 20 boats sailed and back to Les Saintes, Dominica, Marie-Galante Saint-François. one sea kayak for the rans, racing boats, (and even I sailed on Claude first leg), Boats were very different. , from the Guadeloupe Marlin Joao , skippered by Eric Petit Lebrun from the , skippered by —Continued page from previous The participation of the T&T Women’s Youth Sailing Girls Compete in Women’s One-Design Event Girls Compete in Women’s in this year’s Budget While most teams competing For more information Two days at sea fishing were separated by a lay- were separated at sea fishing Two days Hook Up team — skipper Megan Chan Chow with crewmembers Ella Bayne, Nephema Callender and Rushell with an average age of 15. Marine Women’s Caribbean One-Design Keelboat Marine Women’s Caribbean of 40, team Trinidad & Regatta had an average age team to compete, Tobago was by far the youngest visit www.guadeloupefishingclub.com. Club, came second with 1,000 points for two released Club, came second with 1,000 blue marlin. Guadeloupe Fishing Club, won with a total of 1,300 Fishing Club, won with a total Guadeloupe released. blue marlin and one sailfish points with two Mr. Constantini’s …was offered to the boat which could beat the boat which could to the …was offered of 410 pounds. record and family conviviality swimming, eating, day for entertain- Gosier Wiki Beach at the entertainment from Seventeen boats, mainly ment complex. and of Martin, Saint Barthélémy Martinique, Saint 30 had participated. Initially course Guadeloupe, coming many were prevented from registered, but remained Although conditions by adverse weather. nicely by the day, they smoothed out difficult the first end of the tournament. DECEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 14 local boats.Charterboatswerejoinedthisyearby Great Baywheretheyarejoinedbyparticipating Oliver’s YachtClub,theysailaroundthehorninto Maarten. AftercompletingtheirentriesatCaptain and boardtheircharteredyachtinOysterPond,St. participants flyinfromtheUSandNetherlands tourism totheregionandStatiainparticular.Most prizegiving athistoricFortOrange. and FrigateBay,St.Kitts;returningtoStatiaforagala Maarten toGustavia,St.Barths;Oranjestad,Statia; 11th to16th,takingparticipantsfromGreatBay,St. top honors. 43 DSsailedbyKenJohnsonandhiscrew,tookthe winner camefromClass5.The reporting highwindsandevenhail. extensive convectivesquallseastoftheGulfStream, scattered squalllines.Theslowerboatssufferedwith was, forthemostpart,abletomaneuveraround to 15-knotbeamreachformuchofthepassageand distance. Themiddleofthefleetwastreatedtoaten- to findwindandmotoredasubstantialportionofthe conditions tothefleet.Thefasterboatswereunable —Continued frompreviouspage —Continued The GoldenRockRegatta’sgoalistopromote The 3rdGoldenRockRegattaranfromNovember Island-Hopping GoldenRockRegatta For moreinformationvisitwww.carib1500.com. For thesecondyearinarow,OverallHandicap This year’spassagebroughtthreesetsofweather Four C’s, a Jeanneau the 12Metre crews moretimeashore. had beenshortenedfrompreviousyearstoallow case theteamwinninglastracewinsseries. Team DLAPiperwinningthenexttworaces.Insucha two days,afterwhichthetableswereturnedwith Sailing Club.TeamTrupleledthestandingsforfirst Piper skipperedbyChrisLandfromtheManhattan Yacht ClubinAnnapolis,wasdefeatedbyTeamDLA team, captainedbyPamMorrisfromtheEastport points. TeamTruple,analmostcompletelywomen’s ended inasplitresultwithbothpartiesscoringfour Fast 37s,fightingitoutinanail-bitingfinish.Theseries a Cruising/RacingClass,withtwoUSteamsonSun 51, BasRoorda Christopher Land was when sheisnotsailingorspendingtimewithhertwo the bow,runsDoyleSailsBVIwithherhusbandBob Global andaLaserRadialsailor.LindaPhillips,on trimmer ClairBurkeisaseniormanageratTricor Husky Salvage&TowingwithherhusbandKevin.Jib month-old, RebeccaRowlette(Emma’ssister)owns Main andspinnakertrimmermothertoaseven- She isClubManagerattheRoyalBVIYachtClub. Keelboat Championship. peting intheRolexInternationalWomen’s that theteamshouldstretchandworktowardscom- was afterthethirdwinthatEmmaandClairdecided Championship inSt.Maarten2004,‘05and‘06.It at theevent. Houston, Texas.TheyweretheonlyCaribbeanteam Championship, heldNovember14ththrough17thin in theRolexInternationalWomen’sKeelboat the BritishVirginislandsandBitterEndYachtClub Roulette, ClairBurkeandLindaPhillips—represented www.goldenrockregatta.com. Cruising/Racing Class: Class winnersafterfourraceswere: Prizes wereawardedaftereachday’srace,which For thefirsttimeGoldenRockRegattafeatured Open Class: Bareboat Class: Overall winneroftheGoldenRockRegatta2007 Skipper EmmaPaullsailsLaserRadialsandIC24s. Team BVIwontheCaribbeanWomen’sKeelboat A teamoffourwomen—EmmaPaull,Becky BVI WomenTackleInternationalEvent For moreinformationvisit DLA Piper Kate . Kate V.O.C. (VeryOddCrew) and thegaffschooner , 12Metre,KlaasvanDuuren DLA Piper , SunFast37, Passaat , Cyclade . how theregattacouldhaveendedanycloser. November 17thand18th,butit’shardtoimagine Nations Cup,heldintheBritishVirginIslands from theirperchatthethirdannualNannyCay managed toknockthedefendingBVIchampions ten bulletswiththeirDart18. Austria andHenkHankartfromAruba.Theytookall ed byveteranparticipantManfredThomaschfrom We wonwithaconsiderablelead.” cessful, solet’senjoythislastraceandsailsmoothly. said toeachotherthatoureventwasalreadysuc- sure wasonthetopthreeteams.Thismorning,we ten races,andtriedtostaycalm:“Weknewthepres- had goodpreparationbeforethestartoflast from theNetherlands. overall oncountback.Allthreeoftheseteamsare and SamFrank,butLarsen/Tentijbecamesecond Bastiaan TentijtiedonpointswithWouterSamama bullet andtheoverallvictory.GunnarLarsen gles, EduardZanenandMischaHeemskerktookthe After alongcoursewiththreesausagesandtwotrian- of the17thArubaHeinekenCatamaranRegatta. crews sailedoffPalmBeach,Aruba,forthefinalrace new goals. further fulfillingthemissionofinspiringwomentoset the globeandNextSteptoRolexjuniorprogram, be ever-expandingthroughongoingclinicsaround 23 countries.Untilitsnexteditionin2009,reachwill Southwest tohostover500teams,2,400womenand New EnglandtotheMid-Atlanticandnow world ofkeelboatracing,theregattahasmovedfrom encourage womentostepupthemale-dominated Barkow was2005RolexYachtswomanoftheYear. International Women’sKeelboatChampionshipwin. Sally BarkowofWisconsin,makingBarkow’sthirdRolex an 11-raceseries.Thewinningteamwasskipperedby college-aged daughters. Alastair Abrehartreports:TeamBitterEndHolmberg Close ResultsinNannyCayNationsCup For moreinformationvisitwww.arubaregatta.com. This year’sclassofslowercatamaranswasdominat- According tothewinningteam’sHeemskerk,they On November15th,threepossiblewinningF18 Dutch DominateArubaHeinekenCatRace For moreinformationvisitwww.ussailing.org/riwkc. With theRolexIWKCfounded23yearsagoto In Houston,teamBVIplaced18thoutof39teamsin —Continued onnextpage —Continued DECEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 15 (GBR) skip- (NOR), owned

Blue Pearl Nariida —Continued on next page

Tours (ITA), chartered by Bernd (ITA), chartered owner is flying to Antigua espe- Email: [email protected] Fado ODXQGU\LFHPLQLPDUWWD[L 24 Hours Water Taxi & Water & Water Taxi 24 Hours Water says, “After completing seasonal yard says, “After completing seasonal Marine Diesel & Electrical Engi- neering, Generator Maintenance neering, Generator

& Servicing, Emergency Repairs, tel 444 5313/443 5296 fax 444 4460 Special Request, Filling Gasbottles Privat Taxi Service, Yacht Services, Yacht Service, Taxi Privat , a 42-metre (138-foot) Frers-designed ketch;… OURS LTD. (GBR) owned by Peter Harrison, to the smallest, (GBR) owned Eco-Friendly Tours, Laundry Services, Tours, Eco-Friendly ENRY`S SAFARI ENRY`S Yanneke Too’s A wide range of maxis will be competing: from the of maxis will be competing: A wide range Prizes will be awarded at a ceremony scheduled to at a ceremony scheduled Prizes will be awarded monitor each yacht’s A satellite tracking system will Sponsors Superyacht Cup Antigua Attracts 2007 will be held The Superyacht Cup Antigua way to kick off The Superyacht Cup is an excellent Camper & Nicholsons International, who have been Kortuem and skippered by Marcello Iacuzzi and Julie skippered by Marcello Iacuzzi Kortuem and the 13-year-old Marie (GER), to International Maxi Association (IMA) and organized by organized (IMA) and Association Maxi International col- with the Smeralda (YCCS) Club Costa the Yacht St. Tenerife and Nautico de of Real Club laboration sailing is open to monohull Yacht Club, Maarten under longer, racing feet) and of 18 metres (59 yachts IRC handicap. the fleet, the 35-metre (115-foot) largest boat in Sojana -foot) Mini-Maxi the 21-metre (70 brand new Johnson, and from the pered by Anders 2007-launched by Morten Bergesen. in St. Maarten, fol- take place on December 14th dinner at Palapa Marina lowed by a reception and a flavour of where participants will get Antilles-style hospitality. the regatta and can be progress for the duration of accessed for viewing at www.yccs.it. 15th, based out of from December 12th through The start/finish line for Nelson’s Dockyard, Antigua. off the entrance to the daily races will be set just English Harbour. Charlie Dwyer of the Caribbean season. Captain Yanneke Too racing round the work and a transatlantic crossing, is a great way to get the marks against other yachts motivated for the sea- crew working together and son.” Having had a good experience at SYC Palma in June, cially to take part in the four-day event. long term supporters of the Superyacht Cup in Palma and Antigua, return as Gold Level sponsors for this year’s event. A new sponsor at Silver Level is Ocean Yacht Systems (OYS), world leaders in the design and manu- facture of rod, kevlar and PBO rigging, custom hydraulics and bow and stern thruster systems, who have been long-term supporters of SYC Palma. OYS- rigged yachts participating in SYC Antigua include Rebecca Cell 473 449 0780 Tel/Fax 473 443 2960 Tel/Fax . QHGLQLQJUHVWDXUDQWRQERDUGDKLVWRULFOLJKWKRXVHVKLS [email protected] went to press, an interna- FHZDWHUHOHFWULFLW\9IXHOJDVROLQHZL¿ Capricorno Everything you need in one place: Compass Tel/Fax: (473) 444-5108 Tel/Fax: (473) 444-5180 Tel: Cell: 409-5108/409-5180 [email protected] Yacht Services Yacht Before departure, a full programme of workshops full programme departure, a Before in St. Lucia, is Rodney Bay Marina The finish destination Cuthbert Didier, General Manager of the Rodney General Manager of the Cuthbert Didier, taking place on Didier said this year, other events so far are a boat- Among the activities planned are “Tropical Other events on the programme For more information and to follow the fleet, visit Transatlantic Maxi Yacht Rolex Cup 2007 As this issue of tel 473 443 3603 years must be one of the longest sponsorships in sail- sponsorships longest of the be one must years extremely grateful.” for this we are ing and and informa- to offer practical designed and seminars was offered, crossing for the Atlantic tive advice manage- for rigging, power vital checks including weather. on provisioning, routing and ment, advice Palmas and 2,700 nautical miles from Las a distance of between 18 will take most of the yachts a passage that of 11 days, current ARC course record and 21 days. The last year by and 30 seconds, was set 5 hours, 32 minutes yacht the Italian maxi Bay Marina in St. Lucia, said an exciting month-long Bay Marina in activities is social, cultural and sporting programme of and entertain the hun- being put together to host and visitors after they dreds of yachtsmen and friends alive from December 9th arrive. The Marina will come opened, offering nightly when the ARC Village will be artistes, plus food, drinks entertainment featuring local and craft items on sale. into the ARC pro- the island will be incorporated Kalalu Festival and the gramme. These include the Dennery Special Nights. Gros Islet, Anse la Raye and day off Reduit Beach on building and dinghy sailing party on December December 9; The Buzz welcome on December 10, and a National Day extravaganza 13 featuring sports and entertainment. music at various Sundown”, featuring soft steelband ARC Costume Party marina restaurants, the Caribbean public and will be which will be open to the general Landmark, the Junior held at the Pigeon Island National Steelband playoff, cultural lecture and dance at the Marina, the General Manager’s ARC party for participants, sponsors and officials, and the ARC Jam. www.worldcruising.com/arc. tional fleet of maxi yachts, representing seven nations — Barbados, Canada, Germany, Great Britain, Italy, Monaco and Norway — was set to depart Santa Cruz de Tenerife, Spain, on November 26th in the Transatlantic Maxi Yacht Rolex Cup 2007, which ends in St. Maarten. The event, promoted by the ISLAND DREAMS www.islandreamsgrenada.com C&J Auto Rentals Auto Christopher Christopher Pascal 3636 P.O.Box St. George‘s Grenada [email protected] At Le Phare Bleu Marina, Grenada, you can feel at ease knowing that you and your boat will be well looked after. ease knowing that you and your boat will be well looked after. At Le Phare Bleu Marina, Grenada, you can feel at marina has 60 slips for yachts up to 100 feet, buoyed entrance Located 15 minutes from the airport and town, the FKDQQHOFXVWRPVDQGLPPLJUDWLRQRI¿ VHUYLFHVZLPPLQJSRROEDUORXQJHDQGD¿ went to press, the Atlantic Compass Petite Calivigny Bay - St. George‘s -GRENADA - www.lepharebleu.com - phone 473 444 2400 - POS 12°00‘11N/61°43‘29W - www.lepharebleu.com Petite Calivigny Bay - St. George‘s -GRENADA we‘re open now! Marina & Resort Le Phare Bleu Andrew Bishop, Managing Director of the organizing Hark, the ARC! As this issue of Conditions were perfect for the last day, with a little perfect for the last day, with Conditions were double checked — Back on shore the points were is a round-robin regat- The Nanny Cay Nations Cup body, World Cruising Club, declared ARC 2007 offi- cially open and thanked the Port Authority and Tourist Board of Las Palmas for their support with the event: “The assistance we have received over the past 22 Rally for Cruisers (ARC) was set to sail from Las Palmas, Canary Islands, on November 25th, bound for St. Lucia. At the Official Opening Ceremony for the 22nd ARC on November 18th, 240 yachts from 27 nations were entered, making this the largest-ever ARC. more wind than Saturday but very little wave action. All Saturday but very little wave more wind than for 16-year-old Alec Anderson helming eyes were on The start Hirst calling the tactics. the BVI with Robbie up “taking the Holmbergs. They ended went badly for Drake tacked out into the Sir Francis transoms” and windward mark in last Channel, then rounded the It was a two-round race place by several boat lengths. close up on the run down- but the Holmbergs could not mark still firmly in last place. wind, rounding the leeward on 18 points each. In the the two teams were locked of first places that event of a tie, it’s the number sailing ten races over the decides the outcome. After bullets but the Holmbergs weekend, the BVI had five the Bitter End had six. Team Holmberg, representing the 2007 Nanny Cay Yacht Club and the USVI, took namely John, wife Nations Cup. The Holmbergs, Peter and his wife Dianne, son Kai (age 8), brother the fine half-hull trophy Denise, gracefully accepted and perpetual award. for entry is that all ta where the simple requirement passport. IC24s are crew members carry the same growing one-design modified J/24s and the fastest fleets in the US and British class in the Caribbean with Virgin Islands and Puerto Rico. —Continued page from previous of the and final race into the 20th went As competitors BVI Team bmobile winners event, two-time two-day End Team Bitter the USVI’s points behind were two — the final race had to win The BVI team Holmberg. the (last) — to win placing fifth Holmbergs with the placed sec- third time in a row. If the BVI event for the would end in last, the regatta ond and the Holmbergs worse than team had not placed a tie. The Holmberg regatta. third the entire DECEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 16 tle fortheultimateprizeofSkipperYear. from Grenada,CarriacouandPetiteMartiniquebat- Workboat Regatta,sponsoredbyDigicel,localsailors pursuit, andopenseacourses.Inthehotly-contested takes placeoverfourdays,withamixtureofpassage, from January25ththrough29th.Thekeelboatracing www.cyc2008.org. Aanholt-Grol [email protected] World ChampionMartinJenkinsfromArgentina. December 28ththrough31stwithtwotimesOptimist Curaçao. GetthereearlyforanOpti/Splashclinic from January2ndthrough4th2008atJanThielBeach, www.thesuperyachtcup.com. shirt/Caribbean Style’. has beendroppedforamoreAntiguan-fitting‘Loud tle morecolourfulthisyear:the‘blacktie’dresscode Superyacht Cupprizegivingdinnerwhichwillbealit- ing companySLAMandLymanMorseBoatbuilding. er’ fortheSuperyachtCupAntigua. have alsobeenappointedthe‘officiallogisticssuppli- est inthisimportantareaoftheworld.Peters&May Superyacht CupinAntiguafirmlyreinforcestheirinter- popular forPeters&Mayandtheirsupportofthe for movingboatsfromEuropeisprovingextremely local, servicetotheircustomers.TheCaribbeanroute have beenabletoprovideanimportantglobal,yet holding oftheChicago-basedAOS,Peters&May years. Withtherecentpurchaseofmajorityshare- top racingteamsandmotoryachtsformorethan30 company, andhavebeenworkingwithsuperyachts, They aretheworld’sleadingboatandyachtlogistics with theverysuccessfulSuperyachtCupinPalma. Antigua inDecember.Thisfollowstheirinvolvement joined upasasponsorfortheSuperyachtCupin designed ketch. ketch; and …Timoneer frompreviouspage —Continued The PortLouisGrenadaSailingFestival2008runs Port LouisGrenadaSailingFestival2008 For moreinformationcontactMarjoleinvan The CuraçaoYouthChampionshipswillbesailed Curaçao YouthChampionships2008 For moreinformationvisit The four-dayeventculminatesinthetraditional Other sponsorsincludeItaliansportsandleisurecloth- Yacht-shipping specialistsPeters&Mayhavealso www.errolflynnmarina.com e-mail: info@errolflyn Contact John Louis•876-715-6044 •876-873-4412 Caribbean, servicingyachts upto95'inlength. The only100-tontravel liftinthispartofthe , a44-metre(144-foot)Dubois-designed Yanneke Too , a36-metre(118-foot)Dixon- mrn.o VHF • nmarina.com Channel 16 awarded tothefirstthreeboatsineachclass, February 3rdintheSanJuanBayarea.Trophieswillbe 4.7, RadialandStandard. fleets, whiletheLasercategorywillbesubdividedinto divided byageintoGreen,White,BlueandRed competing inOptimist,LaserandSnipecategories Tobago andDominicanRepublic,amongothers, hopefuls fromUnitedStates,USVI,BVI,Trinidadand International Regatta.Theregattawillbringtogether Náutico deSanJuan(CNSJ)willhosttheir7th night’s sailaway…. Carnival inTrinidad,February4thand5th,onlya Just afterPortLouisGrenadaSailingFestival2008is has becomeaneventnottomiss!Andguesswhat? a specialdashof“spice”,theGrenadaSailingFestival workboat dinghies. crews willbeofferedtheopportunitytoracelocal A bonusfor2008isthatthefirsttimeever,keelboat The racingwilltakeplacefromFebruary1stuntil As inyearsbefore,theOptimistcategorywillbesub- From January31stuntilFebruary3rd,2008,Club 7th InternationalSanJuanRegatta For moreinformationseeadonpage11. With terrificracing,dailyprizes,excellentpartiesand Errol Flynn &BoatyardErrol Marina THE WATER THIS HURRICANE SEASON PROTECT YOUR INVESTMENTON Duty Free Zone inMarina Engine andPart Specialists 24 HourFuel Paint Sheds 100 Ton Travel-lift Full ServiceMarina

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Introducing the NEW ONNE VAN DER WAL DER VAN ONNE be followedonline. 11th. Approximately50boatsareregisteredandcan The prizegivingatLeMarinisscheduledforFebruary metre) class,plusclassesforcatamaransandcruisers. Spanish-organized eventhasaMiniTrans-At(6.5 will bemadeatLanzaroteintheCanaryIslands.The Venezuela, toLeMarin,Martinique. has changeditsfinaldestinationfromPuertoLaCruz, e-mail [email protected]. www.nauticodesanjuan.com or late registrationform. but competitorshaveuntilJanuary31sttocompletea number ofparticipantstodate. expects thisyear’sregattatobringinthehighest who isinchargeoftheCNSJ’ssailingprogram, stated GilbertoBerrios,theRegatta’sDirector. although otherawardsmaybegiven. cially open.Youcanaccesstheentryformaswellas… Regatta —www.heinekenregatta.comisnowoffi- The startisatGibraltaronJanuary9th,andastop This year’sGranPrixdelAtlánticotransatlanticrace Gran PrixdelAtlánticoChange For moreinformationvisit Pre-registration willtakeplaceuntilDecember1st, “Each yeartheregattagetsbiggerandbetter,” The newwebsitefortheSt.MaartenHeineken 28th St.MaartenHeinekenRegatta For moreinformationvisitwww.granprixdelatlantico.com. etuat Beach Bar&Grille Restaurant, 24 HourSecurityGatedMarina Open Air Market 1Minuteby Foot Depth Upto25Feet atFace Dock Downtown Nightlife Protected Harbor Navigating thegood life

—Continued onnextpage —Continued DECEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 17

shipments & marine services providing easy access for large garbage disposal & washroom cable TV, 24hr security, water, fuel, telephone & internet, • Drive-down dock with full marina facilities up to 350’ LOA, 21’ Draft • Electricity (110, 220 & 380 3-phase), • 30 stern-to berths, 30 alongside berths • Excellent dockage for Super-yachts

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Falmouth Harbour Marina Falmouth For pre-registration and more information visit Those entering the regatta have a new entry form have a the regatta Those entering from March Regatta 2008 runs St. Maarten Heineken 24 March 2008! Bequia Easter Regatta: 20 - of Bequia’s ever- The Bequia Sailing Club, organisers www.antigua-marina.com [email protected] Tel: +1 268 460 6054 Fax: +1 268 460 6055 www.antigua-marina.com [email protected] Tel: +1 268 —Continued page from previous www.begos.com/easterregatta or e-mail [email protected]. bumper turnout from March 20th to 24th, 2008, with Easter earlier than it has been for many years. With the prospect of a very strong J/24 and Racing Class turnout, great fun racing for cruisers and liveaboards in Cruising II Class and thrilling action from the 30-plus local double-ender fleet, Bequia is THE place to be for Easter 2008. and system that directly links their boat name to the boat name to links their that directly and system and once website, Sailing Association Caribbean details, such boat’s name all relevant they input their automati- boat length, will be updated as rating and to technology will allow the regatta cally. This new and allow current information at hand have the most This new more relaxing registration. for a smoother, to the web- the entrant to come back system allows time to update their information. site at a later 6th to 9th. looking forward to a popular Easter Regatta, are …the Notice of Race, and as new information comes new information Race, and as Notice of …the will be updated. the website available DECEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 18 Burke standingbythemastofAndrew’sboat Andrew (sitting)andhisyoungerbrotherWayne“Doc” Bajan RacerBurkeis ‘Bringing ItAll Back Home’

Drew Way COURTESY BURKE FAMILY BURKE COURTESY 44 nents includingCalifornianLesCrouch’sRiechelPugh Tobago SailWeekinMay,racingagainst11fierceoppo- Netherlands, AntiguaandGuadeloupe.AtAngostura from St.Thomas,theUSA,Maarten, 12 boatsrangingfromaMelgestoJ/100andhailing Heineken Regatta.Theverycompetitiveclasscomprised victory inSpinnakerClass6theSt.Maarten tently bringingthetrophiesbackhometoBarbados. of thebestintopregionalregattaseachyear,consis- Beneteau FirstClass10 new heights.Inthepasttwoyearshehashelmed sailing, yachtdesigning,boatbuildingandracingto that areaweinspiring”,Andrewhastakenalifetimeof Michael Browncalls“adedicationanddetermination on keepin’on.”Andmore.Withwhatcrewmember Bob Dylansong‘TangledUpinBlue’says,Ijustkeep Now58,thelife-longsailorsays,“Like cer in2005. a row,winningby20pointsafter11races.And first placeoverallinRacingClassforthesecondyear aboard theHenderson35 Mumm 36 In March2007,Andrewdrovethe10-metresloopto B Storm Andrew Burke.losthisleftarmtocan- for aCaribbeanyachtracer,buttheywork ob Dylanlyricsmightbeanunlikelyinspiration , andTrinidadiansMichaelRostantonthe High Tension/bmobile Bruggadung II Enzyme , and PaulSolomon Bruggadung II against thebest took Bacchanal Woman although acollisionwithDonaldStollmeyer’s bly goodonthewater,buthe’sincrediblyin… overall sailorIhaveracedagainst.Notonlyisheincredi- day. AndrewBurkedoesn’tgiveup. were patchedandbackontheracecoursefollowing home watersthisJune,asshedidlastyear,bothboats chances ofwinningtheMountGay/BoatyardRegattain his favoritedesign(sofar), Above: Andrewindicatesthefinepointsinaphotoof Angostura TobagoWeek again masteringtheRacingClassatthisyear’s Below: at theBarbadosYachtClub Donald, anotherveteranracer,says,“Andrewisthebest Bruggadung II from Trinidadnixed , withAndrewatthehelm,once Bruggadung I —Continued onnextpage —Continued Bruggadung II’s

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THOMAS HOPMAN THOMAS WILFRED DEDERER WILFRED DECEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 19 racing driver, Bruggadung II, Bruggadung to the start line, ! No really, I like to , from its accustomed Andrew and Team Bruggadung II accepting their prizes in Tobago WILFRED DEDERER Antifouling Paint Paint Brushes Epoxy Resins Sanding Paper & Discs Hand & Power Tools Houseware & Cookware Bruggadung II’s ongoing success to Ralph and ongoing success Bruggadung II Yellow Bird Maltese Falcon , aboard which he and his wife Sally won Bruggadung II’s Bruggadung II’s In addition to weight-saving modifications and to weight-saving modifications In addition heavy pain medication, Because Andrew is still on While undergoing a radical “left forequarter” ampu- In addition to being Paul Johnson has told www.sailweek.com that the We wouldn’t be at all surprised. including the prestigious Antigua and Tobago events. Tobago and Antigua the prestigious including swung has times the pendulum more recent But in with the locals in favor of decisively Burke, Andrew of veteran the expert captaincy under and both Tobago award at the premier lifting last year.” Barbados attrib- the local Doyle loft, Andrew good sails from utes crew ownership and to excellent Paul Johnson’s are Paul the regular crewmembers work. Among Dick Stoute and cockpit crew), Johnson (owner (fore- Seymour (jib trim), Alex McKenzie (main), Dana Atwell (cock- Goodridge (mast), Shane deck), Renata Reader Mercure (cockpit), Rodney pit), Madelaine and Peter Darren Chow (runners), (main/cockpit), Thompson (runners/jib). his racing crew sails where he takes over. And because he can’t drink alco- hol, the crew is also responsible for most of the serious after-race partying. tation (as well as his left arm, the shoulder is gone), plus chemotherapy and radiation, in England two years ago, Andrew says, “I never asked the doctor about death — I asked when I could go sailing again. He said ‘two minutes after you land in Barbados’.” It wasn’t ‘two minutes’, but Andrew was shortly on his way to Trinidad to help friends sail a Moorings 444 back to Barbados. Andrew currently owns a 43-foot Beneteau Idylle, Regent One the Two-Handed Around the Island Race in Fun Class at Carriacou Regatta Festival last year, knocking Andy Smelt’s Spencer 44, perch. Although his real love is racing, Andrew does enjoy cruising with friends and family, especially in the Grenadines. Asked what his ultimate cruising boat would be, he jokes, “ be more hands-on — a Frers 43 would be good.” intention of Team Bruggadung II is to probably put one more serious year into a Caribbean campaign that will include the St. Maarten Heineken Regatta, Antigua Sailing Week, Angostura Tobago Sailing Week and the Barbados Mount Gay/Boatyard Regatta. Following which, he hopes to re-join his brother Ralph and put together another campaign with a new racing boat in the 38- to 42-foot range. “Will we see the debut of another Burke racing machine from Barbados?” asks the posting. e-mail: [email protected] was going to his Nefertiti z Stainless Fasteners Stainless Fittings VHF Radios Flares & Life Jackets Snorkeling Equipment Fishing Gear , for his fellow . Bruggadung Hooligan, Crash Test Bruggadung II, Bruggadung II 452 0311 Kialoa IV participated in the 1987 Bruggadung ) , ‘This is Andrew Burke, who , ‘This is Andrew says, “For a number of years 758 in Racing Class at regional regat- ( from Martinique and renamed her Bruggadung Kialoa IV) Fax: . As stated on the Angostura Tobago in Racer/Cruiser Class) and Paul enlist- fame) told Jim Kilroy (of the Ron Holland- (of the Ron Jim Kilroy fame) told z Reverie Countdown , etcetera) ruled the roost, not just in another Beneteau 10-metre. FOR YOUR MARINE HARDWARE, AND MORE YOUR MARINE HARDWARE, FOR Rapajam Sporting Barbados Noting the expense involved in campaigning the in campaigning involved expense the Noting Bursting with new ideas, in 1984 Andrew designed new ideas, in 1984 Andrew Bursting with In 1987, Ralph Johnson purchased the Beneteau In 2004, Ralph handed over Meanwhile, Andrew campaigned his self-designed Still “always changing the boat”, Andrew has over- Johnson Hardware Ltd. Johnson Hardware Dummies Barbados but also across the Caribbean racing scene regional race circuit, Andrew says, “It was always ‘rake “It was always Andrew says, race circuit, regional to do a challenge boats — always to do the and scrape’ recalls, Andrew Sail Week, 1982, at Antigua well.” In (of Bill McAteer scoreboard when looking at the “I was Immigrant designed maxi is going to kick your ass in a boat that cost less than your ass in a boat that is going to kick winches’.” Well, very nearly! one of your overall behind placed second design Johnson. Regarding Andrew’s Bajan racer Ralph “He does Renata Goodridge says, process, crewmember — he’s an artist.” it all in his head November’s PSV Regatta and went on to win Trinidad Race Week (the event that later moved to Tobago) in 1985 and ’86. the famous Burke 10 Metre, the famous Burke (Ralph is Paints facility in Barbados built at the Harris October 31st, 1984. the company’s CEO) and launched the new design placed third Within a week of launching, Regatta, then won mid- in that year’s Cockspur Rum Atlantic Rally for Cruisers (ARC), which finished in Barbados in those days. Setting a then-record of 16 days, 20-plus hours from the Canary Islands, her arrival back home attracted hundreds of well-wishers. 10-metre tas through the early 2000s. as far as the rule will allow. Even the stemhead fitting has virtually disappeared to save weight. Any modifications to accommodate Andrew’s one-armed, balance-challenged status are also ultimately about making the boat win. The 2007 edition of the magazine Trinidad’s Tim Kimpton (racing Bruggadung II Regatta website (www.sailweek.com): “This is the boat that has been synonymous with Bajan yachting for the last 20 years.” She was Caribbean Racing Yacht of the Year in 1996. and built younger brother Paul (Ralph now races his Beneteau 53f5 ed Andrew as helmsman. “The First Class Tens are really nice boats,” Andrew says, and he often finds himself racing against his cousin, Peter Burke, aboard Blazin’, seen extensive modifications to Chain & Rope Anchors & Fenders Electric Wire Marine Hoses Bilge Pumps Lubricants & Oils 452 0299 ) Nefertiti 758 ( ; at the time Tel: Tel: original owner, Nefertiti z was an exaggeration”. (He . Another was Lady . Another was , a couple of times, that magazine’s Gail Anderson that SAIL Bruggadung II’s Reindeer , a Swan 37, came along as competi- , built in 1922. “We had good ship- , built in 1922. Business Machine Okapi . Unfortunately, it had a tendency to sink. It . Unfortunately, it had a tendency to PSV Regatta in 1977 and won all three races. Morning Mist Rodney Bay, St. Lucia Andrew and his siblings grew up on the beautiful his siblings grew up on the Andrew and his father, Owen, in the As a boy, Andrew helped Heron and Lightning Andrew learned to race on he says, he still Having learned to sail on dinghies, In 1967, Andrew sailed a Lightning at the West Twenty years later, Andrew was back at the Pan Am Along the way, Andrew taught himself yacht design, “My first ‘big’ boat was the 35-foot After placing second behind the Trinidadian Laurie Vigo’s beach at Carlisle Bay, Barbados’s main yacht anchor- Bay, Barbados’s main beach at Carlisle the Barbados door to what is today age, right next boats. His grandfather had fishing Yacht Club. his uncle and was a boatyard, run by “Burke’s Beach” yachts One of the notable his uncle’s brother-in-law. varnished Bay was the 43-foot, built on Carlisle mahogany-on-oak small craft such as family home’s basement, building dinghies. The first boat wooden rowboats and Heron 16-foot sailing canoe, the he built by himself was a Flying Fox race we won was the only was fast, though: “The only dabbled with surfboards race we finished.” Later he construction. and got into foam sandwich own Lightnings’ hulls, dinghies. His family built their admits, giving the boat a tweaking the design, he aft. rounder bow and flatter sections of electronic instruments doesn’t over-rely on the use Dylan, he remarks, “You when racing. Again quoting know which way the wind don’t need a weatherman to regatta where he sailed blows!” (He tells of one Tobago as helmsman with —Continued page from previous his how to make about and forethought …preparation clearly demonstrate His results competitive. boat more in the boats collided when our rather happy this. I was close meant we were June — it Gay Regatta last Mount to him!” says. wrights,” Andrew Chandler’s Indian Championships which were held in Barbados. He won, to become that year’s West Indies Lightning Champion. The same year, he sailed a Flying Dutchman at the Pan Am Games held in Canada. He didn’t take home the gold that time — Buddy Melges did — but he did beat the Puerto Rican contender. Games, in 1987 in Indiana, this time sailing a Star — having never been aboard one before. Selected to represent Barbados in the Finn class at the 1992 Olympics, held in Barcelona, he had only had one opportunity to sail a Finn before the event. He didn’t place, “but we beat Angola — and Antigua!” picking up knowledge from his father and uncles, from sailing magazines, and simply by doing. Ralph Johnson. Another crewmember kept interrupt- Ralph Johnson. Another crewmember of the instruments was ing during a race because one malfunctioning. “So Ralph beat them all to death with a winch handle — the instruments, not the crew.” That they still won the event need not be said!) Andrew only allowed “one toothbrush and one tea bag” aboard for the entire crew, “ acknowledges, however, that his amputation took about 11 pounds off the crew weight, and also maintains a sense of humor about the inevitable “single-hander” jokes.) Heritage 36, tion, so I added more draft.” it was the biggest yacht in Barbados. I just drew it on a piece of paper in 1973, and built the frames inside our house when my wife and I were first married. We took Nefertiti Then won PSV (Petit St. Vincent) Regatta again in 1981, ’82 and ’83. “I was always changing the boat,” Andrew says. “To save weight, I put in a Briggs & Stratton lawnmower engine.” (The West Indian handicap rule was subsequently amended to disallow air-cooled engines!) But when his friend Dan Stoute told DECEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 20 TYRREL BAYYACHTHAULOUT Fair tides! after itsrising,thetiderunswestward.Timesgivenarelocal. setting tojustafteritsnadir,thetiderunseastward;andfromnadirsoon reaches itszenith(seeTIMEbelow)andthenrunswestward.Fromjustafterthemoon’s the eastsoonaftermoonrise,continuestorununtilaboutanhourmoon passage (orzenith)ofthemoonforthisandnextmonth,willhelpyoucalculatetides. Street’s GuidesandcompilerofImray-Iolairecharts,whichshowsthetimemeridian passage fasterandmorecomfortable.Thetablebelow,courtesyDonStreet,authorof 02044 1949 1858 20 1811 19 1725 18 1639 17 1553 16 1505 15 (new) 1415 14 1323 13 1220 1138 12 1047 11 0959 10 0914 9 0832 8 0751 7 0711 6 0631 5 0549 4 3 2 TIME 1 DATE December 2007 For moreinformation,see“TidesandCurrents”onthebackofallImrayIolairecharts. Note: themaximumtideis3or4daysafternewandfullmoons. Water, Donexplains,generallytriestoruntowardthemoon.Thetidestartsrunning Crossing thechannelsbetweenCaribbeanislandswithafavorabletidewillmakeyour cruise throughSt.Vincent,GrenadaandtheGrenadines. MERIDIAN PASSAGE Come alongsideoursplendidjettyandreplenishyour ENTERPRISE A steppingstoneasyou B &CFUELS DECEMBER &JANUARY2008 Petite Martinique Welcomes youto For furtherinformationcallGlennClementor supplies of Reynold Belmar.Tel/Fax:(473)443-9110 at thecheapestpricesinGrenadines. OF THEMOON Call sign:“GolfSierra”VHFchannel16 FUEL, OIL,WATERandICE 20(new) 1351 1301 1210 1116 10 1023 9 0931 8 0841 7 0755 6 0710 5 0629 4 3 2 0548 1 0507 January 2008 0425 31 0341 30 0253 29 (full) 0159 28 0100 27 0000 26 2356 25 2250 24 2145 23 22 21 ● ● ● ● ● ● New environmentallyfriendlyhaulout Chandlery Mini -Marina Do ityourselforlabouravailable Fuel Dock,Water 50-ton hoist,18ftbeam,8ftdraft Phone/Fax: 473.443.8175 E-mail: [email protected] CARRIACOU VHF: 16 10634 0548 0505 31 0423 30 0342 29 0306 28 0216 27 0921 26 0038 25 0000(full) 24 2342 23 2241 22 2137 21 2033 20 1932 19 1836 18 1744 17 1655 16 1609 15 1524 14 1438 13 12 11 trip tothebeach.JeanneAndrewsof the afternoonshift,from2 ness shortlyaftersunriseeachdayandheadedforthehospital.Anothergroupworked available forthemission,norathomesofmanypatients. or discounted,forsheets,blanketsandtowels,astherearenoneatthepublichospital sewed andJeannewashed62metersofsheeting45terrycloth,donated Ride ities. YachtiesraisedoverBs600,000playingBingoandSpadesona Bahia RedondaMini-Mart,organizedcruisersforfundraising,atoydriveandotheractiv- many waysduringtheweeksprecedingmission.Ever-presentAnneRobinson,of world’s largestcleftlipandpalatecharity. Hughes, aswellaUS$20,000grantfromSmileTrain(www.smiletrain.org),the the mission;thisyearhebroughtwithhimORnursesSuzanneOldhamandGail nomically disadvantagedVenezuelans.Lastyear,onlyDr.Bosshardtwasabletojoin Bosshardt andDennisLynch,whoflewinfromFloridatohelprestoresmileseco- Venezuelan surgeonsYvánMillánandRafaelEscobargreetedUSsurgeons,Richard Velásquez deManyon,easternVenezuela’sonlyexpertincleftlipandpalaterepair, Hospital, Barcelona,Venezuela,fromOctober18thto20th.LedbyDoctoraAna 93 patientsforthreedaysofmaxillofacialsurgeryintheDr.LuisRazettiUniversity Mission broughttogetherU.S.andVenezuelanmedicalteams,150volunteers Idylle 15.5, dividinghertimebetween St.Croix,Venezuela andChicago. to: FundamigosHLP, Mun.1213,P.O.Box025352,Miami, FL 33102-5352. ing MarcManyon,at [email protected]? Sendacheck and thathasnotchanged. Wanttohelp?Volunteerforfuture missionsbycontact- ics toraisefunds.EveryBolivarcollected goes tohelpapatientinneed. foundation offices,Dra.Anamakesfoodand dessertsforsaleatthehospitalandclin- but fundingnevercoversalltheexpenses. Whensheisnotintheoperatingroomor tions werelegislated,mostoftheFundamigos stafftransferredtothehospitalpayroll, rooms andmealsforthevisitingmedicalteams. Whennewrestrictionsonpatientdona- and care.Duringtheannualinternational mission,theHotelPuntaPalmadonates these families.Aftersurgery,eachpatient is followedforcontinuingrevisions,dentistry hid theirembarrassment—andthechild. vantaged childwasbornwithacleftormalformedfacialfeature,theparentsoften cal developmentforachallengedchild.Inthepast,whenaneconomicallydisad- alone thecomplicatedissuesofnutrition,speech,education,socialandpsychologi- motion ofcosmeticenhancement.Fewparentsanyeconomicstratacanaddress Doctora Anahelpsthosewhocannotaffordsurgeryinacountryknownforitspro- leave thepublichospitalforvastlymorelucrativeprivatesector.Now,only surgery thisyear.Theoldestpatientwas91yearsold,theyoungestonlyfourmonths. having beenundertheknifeseveraltimesbefore.One18-yearoldgirlhadher14th injury ordisease)arealsotreated.Seventypercentofthepatientswerechildren,some cleft lipsand30palates.Congenitalacquiredfacialdeformities(accident, and commendstheBahiaRedondansfortheirreliability:“Theyshowup!”hesays. this three-daymission.MarcManyoncoordinatestheEnglish-speakingvolunteers missionaries alsodonatetheirtimetotheapproximately7,000volunteerhours of requirement; Chevron’sex-pats,GirlScouts,Boycollegestudents,andlocal tions inthePuertoLaCruzarea:highschoolstudentswhofulfilltheirpublicservice pump stillhadtobeturnedonmanuallywhentheinstrumentsrequiredwashing. ating suitesportednewlights,anesthesiamachines,monitorsandbeds.Thewater knew howtousethesharpeningstoneHutchhadbrought.On4thfloor,oper- building. Thereweresomenewknivestochoponionsandgarlic,cruiser/chefOlga years ofvolunteerservicewerecommemoratedwithacolorfulbanneronthekitchen missing: SusanFranklin always beenafavoritepostforthecruisers,althoughthisyear,onefamiliarfacewas the children,accompaniedoncuatrobyever-faithfulAntonio.Thecaminitohas accompany thepatients.Later,Dra.Maggiedonnedoneofhercrazyhatsandsangto prepare andserve800mealsperdayforthemedicalteamsfamilieswho from theirsurgery;andotherswenttothe room; otherswenttothepatientflooroccupychildrenwaitingfororrecovering instruments, tablesandfloors,translatefortheU.S.teams,orassistinrecovery Cruisers HelpSurgeons Once themissionbegan,acrewofcruisersboardedbusprovidedbylocalbusi- It wasthesame,itdifferentthisyear.The16thFundamigosInternational Ellen Sanperelivesmost oftheyearinCaribbeanaboard It maytakeavillagetoraisechild—it takes evenmoretogivesomekidsasmile, Fundamigos HLPistheonlyorganization ineasternVenezuelathatreachesoutto Recent yearshaveseenmanytopVenezuelanplasticandreconstructivesurgeons By Saturdayevening,86operationshadbeencompleted,includingtherepairsof25 According toeconomistDomingoCarmena,volunteerscomefromseveralorganiza- Help KidsinVenezuela , ledteamsmakingover4,000gauzebandages.Ontheirrespectiveboats,Lynette of M/VPipeDream PM to aslate9 by EllenSanpere Bahia Redonda Left: TeriandTracyfoldingbandagesatMarina to therecoveryroom Above: CruiserTony,right,helpingmovepatients a fewEnglishandEuropeancruiserstoworkhardin the marina.Nevertheless,thosewhoweretherejoined generosity, buttherewerefewerofthemthisyearat North American“yachties”arewellknownfortheir their time,energyandmoneytotheannualeffort. Redonda, PuertoLaCruz,wererecruitedtodonate As inthepast,visitingcruisersatMarinaBahia S/V Dragonfly caminito PM . Somewenttotheoperatingsuitewash had passedawaythissummer.Hermany to helpDoctoraMaggiedeCasanova and LynetteScottof S/V CayenneIII peñero S/V Perfect boat , an DECEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 21 Sandy Island & Tyrrel-Bay Sandy Island www.scubamax.com • * Standard at PADI 5 Air-Fills [email protected] • and Snorkel Gear Rental Scuba • for Sailors Special Group Prices If you need to transportIf you parcels, pallets, magazines, etc... newspapers give CIRExpress to fast and efficient COURIER SERVICES side of St.the Dutch and French Maarten/ St. Martin, delivery system the new offer door to door local the collect and deliver same day, documents, packages and Express Packages,Overnight Freight, Documents etc. need is contact us to fast pick up All you goods. all your and deliver & 15 Specialties in English & Deutsch & 15 Specialties PADI Courses from Beginner to Instructor from Beginner to Instructor PADI Courses • • at Hillsborough, Service for Sailors Rendezvous • pm or individually dives at 9.30 am and 1.30 Daily Phone/Fax (473) 443-7882 and VHF CH 16 and VHF CH 443-7882 (473) Phone/Fax Find us right in the town of Hillsborough! the town us right in Find nn nn ee ee tt tt rr rr aa aa www.doyleguides.com All the info you need if you are planning a cruise! aa aa Int. E-mail: 001-3057042314 [email protected] MM & updates on the web at MM Packages Pick – up call: 553-3850 / + (590) 690-222473 + (599) .. .. CHRIS DOYLE'S GUIDES the Caribbean's best sellers! tt Your Expert Guide to Carriacou’s Best Diving Best Carriacou’s Guide to Expert Your tt “Have you got the latest Venezuela guide yet?” Check out the features that make them Full Color sketch charts Aerial and scenic color photography Up-do-date, lively and relevant text Downloadable waypoints SS

TRAINING SS INSTRUCTOR MARIGOT BAY AREA The Shack Villa Zandoli Discovery at Marigot Bay JJ’s Paradise Resort Oasis Marigot Marigot Beach Club Cocokreole Hotel SOUFRIERE AREA SMMA office by Laura Sargent at any of these locations (this month’s advertisers in bold): Readers! When in St. Lucia, pick up your free monthly copy of PICK UP! Compass

Caribbean Compass

Ahoy, the RODNEY BAY AREA Island Water World Johnson Hardware Scuttlebutts Restaurant DSL Yacht Charters Razmataz Restaurant Regis Electronics The Sail Loft NBC Bank The Bread Basket Ben’s Chartering Sea Spray Rodney Bay Marina Boatyard Office The Boatyard Pub St. Lucia Yacht Club Buzz Restaurant Sunbuilt Hardware We sailed slowly past the wreck and started to recognize the debris as mostly We sailed slowly past the wreck and started to recognize had been seized by a British Subsequent news reports said that a Venezuelan boat Caribbean. To us this is You never know what you may find on the seas of the

This was a passage my husband, sons and I have done many times, the yearly sail I have done many times, my husband, sons and This was a passage Sail Rock Our heading put us between of October 31st, 2007. It was the morning St. Vincent Signal Station on VHF channel 16 to When we got closer we called Stumbling Onto a Story a Onto Stumbling Main photo: Coming upon this at night would have been devastating. We don’t have Main photo: Coming upon this at night would have been radar and it was literally in our path Inset: One of the packages floating near the wreck no people visible. I asked the SVG Signal Station if we should stay around the wreck no people visible. I asked the SVG Signal Station if we on our original course. until the Coast Guard arrived but they suggested we continue significantly more than small, tightly wrapped packages. This scene was something riddled with small holes on it had originally appeared. The half-submerged boat was and side. There were many the bow and there were large gaping holes on the bow the hull, and some small blue and yellow, brick-sized packages floating out from sight was a little unsettling packages tied together along with a few large boxes. This no people on board and, since to say the least. It was still apparent that there were us to leave the area, we the recommendation from SVG signal station encouraged along the current line. proceeded on, passing more packages and debris floating 700 pounds of cocaine on Navy warship east of the area in late October with a reported had been arrested and this boat board. It was stated in the local newspaper that the crew in bad weather. The local news had been in tow back to Venezuela when it broke away wash up on the beaches. was asking people to please turn in any packages that may friends. Yet I am sure it is another “remember when” story to share with family and considerably more than that to someone somewhere else. from Trinidad to Bequia. Nothing out of the ordinary, dodging ships and oil rigs the ordinary, dodging ships to Bequia. Nothing out of from Trinidad trip. squalls, generally a peaceful and Grenada, a few small between Trinidad the Tobago Cays when I noticed a large “something” in and World’s End Reef off the mile directly off our bow. I looked through the binoculars water about a quarter of a the a large wooden boat sticking high out of the water, and saw it was the bow of rest of the vessel submerged. feet a blue and white wooden power boat, about 40 report our find and its location: persons visible, and debris floating about. It appeared in length, badly damaged, no Seeing the boat from a distance we were concerned to have been a recent wreck. serious distress. As we approached we found there were about crew or passengers in DECEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 22 YAMAHA GRENADA W.I. TRUE BLUE,ST.GEORGE’S, cnyeBros.Ltd. McIntyre CARRIACOU REALESTATE )Seamount Vent Ridge 7) Abyssalplain 6) Deepslope 5) Coastalshelf 4) Nearshore 3) 2) 1) TOURS &CRUISES-CARJEEPRENTAL Tel: (473)4438182Fax:8290 Property ManagementonCarriacou Answer email: [email protected] e-mail: [email protected] PHONE: (473)4443944/1555 or contactCarolyn Alexanderat For fulldetailsseeourwebsite: Dolly’s WITHOUT IT We alsohandleVilla Rentals& LEAVE PORT Outboard Engines2HP-250HP Land andhousesforsale Duty-Free EnginesforYachts FAX: (473)4442899 www.islandvillas.com Parts -RepairsService Down IslandLtd DON’T and VolcanintheChiriquiHighlands. town ofDavidonPanama’sPacificside,andBoquete Bob andNormafrom Panama. InSeptemberwepartneredwithourfriends “get awayfromitall”andseemoreoftheinterior pleting afewboatprojects,weneededfieldtripto considerable anchoringspace. Club &MarinaandCarenero.Thereisalso cruisers. Therearetwomarinashere:BocasYacht Caribbean islandofColon,alongwithmanyfellow Panama, nearthetownofBocasdelToroon built in2001. Escondido, thefirst condocommunityinBoquete, www.altosdelmaria.com/pplanner) andValle plexes includeAltos delMaria(507-260-4813, river andmountain views. Otherupscalecondocom- www.losmolinos.com.pa.) Thecomplex has beautiful club house/hotel/restaurant.(Phone507-263-4832, condo communityofLosMolinos,which featuresa reaching Boquetetocheckoutthenew, upscale, 3:00PM atthehigherelevations.Westopped before as itfrequentlybeginstorainbyaround 2:00or only about30minutesfromDavid,getan earlystart, Alex, abilingualtaxidriver(6-521-3425). a car,sowenegotiatedpriceofUS$7 an hourwith bility thanthebuswouldoffer,andchosenottorent the centralplaza. US$3.50 eachatLibreriaRegionalonthewestsideof Bambito andCerroPuntaareavailableforabout Tourist mapsofBocasdelToro,Boquete,Volcan, reasonable pricesisMarCaribe;phone721-2625. 775-3385 fordirections.Anothernicerestaurantwith price, tryRestauranteMariscosySteakHouse;phone (774-6604). near theGrandNationalHotel,atUS$38pernight Madrid, atUS$33pernight(775-2051);andtheIberia including breakfast(775-4068);thecentrallylocated the Occidental,rightonplaza,atUS$24pernight should be50centsperperson.Otherlodgingsinclude reservation: 774-5236.)Taxifarefromthebusstation for US$28pernight.(Itisbesttophoneaheada the HotelCastilla,locatedrightoffcentralplaza, ple, forests,grazingandfarmingareasalongtheway. rivers andstreams,enjoyedseeingthenativepeo- As weclimbedintotheclouds,crossedseveral a beautifulrideacrossPanama’scontinentaldivide. for David,afour-hourridethatcostsUS$7.Thiswas costing 50cents.Busesleaveaboutevery30minutes took ataxitothebusstation,five-ten-minuteride speed boatride.OnceonthedockatAlmirante,we to Almiranteonthemainland,a30-minute,high- Inland TravelinPanama After checkingouttheBocasdelToroareaandcom- We weresittingoutthe2007hurricaneseasonin As weentered theoutskirtsofBoquete westopped to Boquete isintheChiriquiHighlands.Although itis To visitBoqueteandVolcan,wewantedmoreflexi- In David,forgoodChinesefoodatareasonable In DavidonthePacificcoastalplain,westayedat We tookathree-dollarwatertaxifromBocasTown S/V HappyOurs for atriptothe ALL ASHORE… by JackCooley Gardens animalrescuecenter Below: APanamaniannativemargayatParadise 2,000 BC,includingthisclayfigurine Left: AtSitioBarrileswesawartifactsthatdatefrom Mystic Adventure. which isthecostfor twopersons. point, orcallaheadand inquire. it maybepossibletoobtainpermission enteratthat end ofthedriveway.Therewasaspeaker at thegate,so ever whenwestopped,therewasaclosed gateatthe wide. Iunderstandyoucanalsorenthorses here;how- breds areraisedandtrainedforshows racesworld- the HarassCerroPuntahorsefarm,where thorough- the GardensofGuadalupe.Itmaybepossible tovisit Orchid Nurseries(nearLosQuetzalesEcolodge), and Janson, thetroutfarmatHotelBambito, Dracula whitewater rafting,coffeeprocessing at LaFinca ities andsightsintheVolcan/CerroPuntaareainclude curtailed ouractivitiesfortheday.Howeverotheractiv- rios.com.pa). Hotel ontheoutskirtsofVolcan(771-5555,www.dos- at 6-607-5438,[email protected]. tion, callEdnaat575-1828,herhusbandJoséLandau Sunday, startingfromJanuaryfirst.Formoreinforma- the site.Specialprogramsareheldhereeverythird riles-24.jpg forapictureoftheancientburialtombat Oriental descent.Checkwww.chagres.com/sitio_bar- these ancientpeoplemayhavebeenofbothAfricanand the Mayanculture.Thefiguresfoundhereindicate therefore consideredtobeaprimitiveformofwheel. from aconsiderabledistance.Thestonebarrelsare materials suchasotherstones,timbers,etcetera, stones wereusedasrollerstotransportbuilding barrel-like stonesfoundhere.Itistheorizedthatthese This isnamedthe“siteofbarrels”because and manyotherartifactsthatdatefrom2,000BC. cultural center.Wesawpetroglyphs,grindingstones, informative bilingualtouronthesiteofanancient as “Edna’sGardens”.EdnaLandaugaveusamost ed SitioBarriles(“siteofthebarrels”),alsoreferredto Volcan, BambitoandCerroPunta.InVolcanwevisit- Kotowa CoffeePlantationtour,andwhitewaterrafting. glyphic siteatthehotsprings,BoqueteTreeTrek, Family Gardens(free),CalderaHotSprings,thepetro- to exploreincludeMiJardinessuJardin,Gonzales (Phone 6-615-6618).Otherattractionsyoumaywant garden-like surroundings.EntryisUS$5perperson. etcetera, andhaveshelteredtheminveryattractive macaws, aCentralAmericanvarietyofwildcat, They haverescuedquiteanarrayofmonkeys,parrots, ter operatedbyretiredBritsPaulandJennySaban. visit ParadiseGardens,abirdandanimalrescuecen- Jack Cooleyiscruising theCaribbeanaboard All pricesaboveare perperson,exceptlodging, As usual,itstartedtorainbymid-afternoon,which We enjoyedamealattherestaurantofDosRios This istheonlyplaceinPanamashowingevidenceof From David,itisaboutoneandahalfhoursto S/V DECEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 23 LTD INE DISTRIBUTOR R P.O. Box 17, Kingstown opposite Howard’s Marine PAIE E-mail: [email protected] Located CALLIAQUA, St. Vincent AMAHA MA Y TEL: (784) 457 1806 FAX: (784) 456 1364 KMRN SPARES SERVICE MARINE EQUIPMENT ENGINES (DUTY FREE PRICES)

DON MOCKFORD We were guided into the cave in groups of three and We walked back to the Centre on our own and For those not inclined to long walks, just sitting on A close look at an oilbird will tell you a lot about how The “cave” is really a gorge with a stream flowing really a gorge with a stream The “cave” is hours in their cave, Oilbirds spend the daylight ‘One could spend hours watching the hummingbirds’ face allowing them to feel around in the dark. A very heavy hooked beak allows them to pluck the fruit of palms and laurels. The whole fruit is swallowed and the seed is regurgitated. Although the oilbird forages by sight, it is one of only a few birds, and the only nocturnal one, known to navigate by echolocation in suf- ficiently poor light conditions, using a series of sharp audible clicks for this purpose. allowed to use cameras without flashes. Our guide was very careful to minimize our disturbance to the oilbirds. It was just light enough to see the birds on ledges and a few birds let out a raucous call that echoed through the cave. It would be deafening to have the whole colony disturbed at one time. Hunter and I deviated to the bell bird trail. We were rewarded with an excellent look at this ventriloquist bird that is easy to hear and difficult to see. the veranda with a cup of tea or locally grown coffee is equally rewarding. A naturalist guide was always available on the veranda to help with bird identifica- tion or to point out a group of toucans that just landed in the far-off wild nutmeg tree. These local men and women are very knowledgeable and are without exception very warm and enthusiastic about the natural history of this little slice of heaven in Trinidad. make loud screams, snarls and clucks, thus earning the Spanish name, “Guácharo” (the one that wails and moans). they live. They are chestnut brown with white spots on their neck and wings. This color and pattern provide good camouflage in the cave environment. Large eyes allow them to see better in low light. Stiff bristles around their beak give them a “sense of touch” at their disturbance. This conservation measure has proven to has proven measure This conservation disturbance. show a of oilbirds counts and the monthly be effective 128 and that fluctuates between steady population 170 birds. are the in the rock walls. Oilbirds though the crack world. They fruit-eating birds in the only nocturnal the oil palm foraging for the fruit of spend their nights on these oily The chicks grow fat and tropical laurels. percent heav- they fledge they are 50 fruits and before them as parents. Our guide described ier than their at birth.” that are blind and naked “big balls of butter the nestlings were They are called oilbirds because oil. once used as a source of lamp When disturbed they roosting on ledges and nests. by Devi Sharp and High Tea ALL ASHORE… ALL

haguaramas, Trinidad, is famous as a place is famous Trinidad, haguaramas, to work on your boat. But my husband, boat. But my on your to work the were ready for a break from Hunter, and I

Agoutis patrol beneath the feeders for crumbs. Make no mistake, this place is not about sitting on The Centre is proud of the tradition of serving local A visit to Dunston Cave, the site of nesting oilbirds, The main house features a long veranda that pro- Purple and green honeycreepers add to the palette of

C Oilbirds, Honeycreepers Oilbirds, These rodents are the size of a very large house cat and prized for their sweet meat, so, unless they are in a protected area, they are scarce and shy. the veranda and watching birds at the feeders, but between walks on the trails and during High Tea at four in the afternoon, the veranda is the place to be. There are miles of well-marked trails that wind around hillsides, across small streams and over ridges. Strategically placed benches provide rest and bird- watching stops. The pool at a waterfall provides a welcome place to take a mid-day swim. foods prepared on site. Most of the fruit and all of the coffee are from the grounds of the Centre, which tries to be an example of sustainable agriculture. The site is large enough, however, that you never feel as if you are in an active plantation. is available to guests who stay at the Centre for at least three nights or at a charge for other guests if there is already a visit scheduled. The Centre limits the number of visits to protect the birds from daytime crowned motmot is a treat. One could spend hours watching the hummingbirds. The diminutive white- chested emerald hummingbird had staked out his territory at two feeders and when the larger white-necked jacobin tried to visit the feeder the little emerald tried to drive the jacobin out of the air. They gave us a spec- tacular dog fight. vides a commanding view of the Arima Valley — and the bird feeders. Fruit, bread and nectar are provided at the feeders which are almost constantly buzzing and chirping. Bananaquits gather like flies on fresh meat, but they are small yellow, black and white birds on fresh papaya. tropical colors. An occasional visit from a blue- boat and from chores and it was time to heal our grit- chores and it was time to boat and from spent four so we packed a duffel and ty boat knees, Nature nights at the Asa Wright days and three central Centre is located in Trinidad’s Centre. The coffee range on an abandoned northern mountain 100-year-old In 1967, the now and cocoa plantation. turned into associated buildings were house and its acres were and the surrounding 193 a guest house of native conservation and protection dedicated to is well known in the animals and habitat. The Centre place to stay and see birding community as a great have been 159 species of lots of tropical birds. There birds recorded within its grounds. DECEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 24 dock. The dockwasbeingrepaired, andoneof the dinghy upamongthe smallfishingboatsbythecity buildings insight.After averywetmotor,wetiedthe regrets aboutnotchoosing optionnumberone! ging the90-pound Yamaha across,Ihaddefinite feet ofsandandthenmotoracross.As we weredrag- the strand,oryoucancarryyourdinghy across50 radio andaskoneofthewatertaxistopick youupon it wastimetogetreadygosouth. coming upasDebbiheadedintotheNorth Atlanticso morning. Itlookedlikewe’dhaveaweather window need tocrossgetCodringtonforcheck-out inthe between theseaandhugeinlandlagoon thatwe’d head down,todisappearintothetwilight. away. Thateveningahorseshambledupthebeach, a boatcamein,buthadthegoodtastetoanchormiles people —justperfectbeachandturquoisewater.Later another. Heretherearenoresorts.boatsand Eleven MileBeachwhichabutsanotherbeachandyet nicer wherewewereanchored. plex growthofreefoffthissidetheisland.It’smuch streaks ofbrownanddirtygreenwhichmarkthecom- waters ofthesouthernshore.It’seasytosee Walking acrossthepoint,welookedoutover thing they’revyingforisthesandspurgrowingprize! these exclusiveresorts.Atthistimeofyear,theonly among thelargeranch-stylehousesthatmakeup grill —thatexplainsit. with aninterestinglittlereefclosebyandfreshfishto dinghy andgoashore.Wewerealoneinperfectwater took solongtogetupthegumptionin were seduced.There’snootherwaytoexplainwhyit can see.Therewerenootherboats,andpeople.We the KClub. the lovelyanchorageoffCocoaPointResortand Islands Barbuda inDoyle’s mahi ontheway!Whatabonus.Havingreadabout To makeitevenbetterwecaughtafour-dinnermahi iting familiarhauntswewentontoBarbuda. mal lives.Wefeltalittlelonely,soafterthreedaysvis- men whowereourfriendshadgonebacktotheirnor- quiet andsleepy.Thevendors,shopkeepersdock- dreds ofboatsandthepageantryregattas.Itwas wanted toseetheislandwithoutmadnessofhun- and theTV2cameracrewoutofSt.Thomas.Nowwe as asortoffloatingbed-and-breakfastforraceboat Sail WeekandtheClassicYachtRegatta,mostlytoact the lastthreeyears,wehadspentAprilinAntiguafor motor-sail the95milestoJollyHarbor,Antigua.For old islandcommunity. to strollashorehereandseewhat’sgoingoninthis the mooringballsoffStatiaIsland.It’salwayspleasant hours ofslogging,westoppedforthenightonone Virgin GordaintheBritishIslands.After19 southeast asweleftEustatiaSoundofftheeastendof from St.Thomas.Thewindimmediatelyshiftedeast- tourist. Youhavetointendgothereget the intentionofgoingtoAntiguaandBarbudaplay It’s easytofindCodrington; it’stheonlygroupof There aretwooptionsforgettingtotown. Youcan We wereparkedclosetoshorenearthenarrow neck The nextdaywemotoredaroundPalmettoPointto We finallydidtakethedinghyashoreandwandered The pinkish-whitesandbeachgoesasfartheeye The 30-milesailtoBarbudawasperfectlybeautiful. The nextmorningwasa5:50 We leftSt.Thomasearlythisyear(August10)with , weoptedtoavoidthetrickysouthcoastfor Barbuda’s EndlessBeaches D D E E S S Cruising GuidetotheLeeward T T I I N N AM A A start foranother T T I I — AlltoOurselves! O O N N S S Nine-Mile Beachtotheleftandright—sandasfareyecansee in afterseeing Immigrationat the airport.Aswechat- work, butwewerenow outoforderandmustdropback knock ontheright-hand apartmentdoor. passerby assuredus thatthiswasCustoms—just then alefttothesecond yellowhouseontheleft.A hoods asfarthechurch,tookaright for oneblock, We strolledalongtheroadthroughneat neighbor- port isnotfar,though,andCustomsalong theway. meet thatday’sflight;wehadjustmissed her.Theair- needed toseehadtakenthestamp the airportto porch. AtImmigration,weweretoldthat theladywe road andtwohousesdown—wecouldsee itfromthe necessary document.NextwasImmigration acrossthe and wesatonhisporchrailwhilehe made outthe the officialweneedtosee!Hishouseison thecorner, tered pick-upstoppedtoaskifhecouldhelp.Hewas main intersectionbythemarket,agentlemaninbat- no signs.Aswewerestandinginthemiddleof rest oftheislandchain. development orislandindustriesweseeallalongthe the case.Thereisnoevidenceoftypeactive slaves enmassewhentheyleft,thismayverywellbe the Britishdeededislandtoabandonedex- though thefamiliesmigratearoundisland.Since abandoned andotherslongunderconstructionas small businessenterprisesandhomes,somelong of course. Immigration andCustoms—allindifferentplaces, workers gaveusdirectionsforthePortAuthority, The Customsofficer washappytobeginourpaper- Now wheredowefindthePortAuthority?Thereare Walking uptheroadtomainjunction,wepassed by BettyFries going togetoutofdraggingtheYamahabackacross! the reefstowherewewantedgo.LookslikeI’mnot guide istheonlysurewayoffindingthrough reconsidered. It’saverytrickypassage,andlocal the cartoshowusdirectionfromshore,but opening outofthelagoonbacktoourboat.Hediverted we askedabouttakingourdinghythroughthenorthern lift toImmigration;it’squitehotatnoon.Alongtheway, the street.Theyoungdeliverymanofferedtogiveusa ted, hislunchwasdeliveredfromthefoodshopacross back toBarbuda. Thenwe’llplay tourist. spots we’veeverbeen in,weagreethatwe’llbecoming Trinidad. Gazingback atoneofthemostbeautiful main. Itishurricane season,andwe’reheadedfor the rail.Leaving bay,afirstreefgoesintothe — asmallresortperhaps. dinghy alongthebeachtolookatsome construction was justasharditthefirsttime. Wetookthe dry inthisdirection,butthetraverseacross thesand dinghy atthetowndock.Therideacross thelagoonis out oftown,backtothemarket,and thentoour dered atrandomalongtheroads,into, through, and ever met! Barbudans areamongthefriendliestislanders we’ve that arrivedontheplane.Withoutadoubt, Customs, sheaskedustocarrybackasmallpackage curious aboutourlifestyle.Sincewehadtoreturn ers cometoBarbuda,andtheImmigrationladywas plete thepaperwork,butwelingered.Notmanycruis-

Back attheboat dinghymotorishoistedonto With allofourofficialdutiescompleted, wewan- At Immigrationittookonlyafewminutestocom- CHRIS DOYLE, CRUISING GUIDE TO THE LEEWARD ISLANDS LEEWARD THE TO GUIDE CRUISING DOYLE, CHRIS DDEESSTTIINNAATTIIOONNSS A Refreshing Rest Stop— St. Vincent by Bev Bate DECEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 25

Above: Moored in Wallilabou Bay on St. Vincent’s he diesel engine quietly throbbed, breaking the lush leeward coast, set from the ‘Pirates of the silence of the night as the boat glided on a glassy Caribbean’ movies can be seen at left Tsea lit only by the stars. A brilliant spotlight in the center of the bay blinded the approach while the Left: Close-up of the movie set steep, black hillsides of the bay loomed overhead. Standing on the bow and scanning the blackness, with spotlight in hand, my husband, Bill, eagerly searched and had nothing to worry about. He then proceeded to for the reflective white glow of a mooring ball but none connect our mooring line. He did not request any com- was seen. Calling to him from the helm, I gave him the pensation. As we normally tip boat boys for connecting assurance it should be directly ahead. The darkness the mooring, we offered him EC$10, which he grateful- seemed endless as the boat made cautious progress ly accepted. He offered to come by in the morning and into the bay and our minds flashed back to the warn- fetch fresh bread, fruit or vegetables but we declined, ings we’d read and comments of other boaters suggest- indicating we had to consume the supply we still had on ing we stay clear of St. Vincent or be plagued by pan- board. He wished us a good night and paddled off into handlers and worse. We didn’t know what to expect but the dark. He never approached us again. were hopeful the darkness would develop a new reality In the morning we woke with great anticipation and as we closed on the mooring balls. were eager to see the bay we’d entered during the night. We were continuing our trip south from Soufriere, When we peered out we were awestruck by the beauty St. Lucia. We departed a little later in the day than and peacefulness of our surroundings. Bill said to me, intended. The winds were light so our passage was “This is what I’ve been dreaming of.” What he was refer- slower than anticipated. However, according to our ring to was a tropical, peaceful, quiet bay with lush jun- charts, there were no obstacles entering Wallilabou gle gardens reaching down to the water and sandy beach. Bay (13°14.9’N, 61°16.5’W) and we expected to find Wallilabou was a primary location for the Pirates of mooring balls in front of the Wallilabou Bay Hotel. the Caribbean movies. We understood many of the We were confident one could tie onto the mooring ball stage sets were still intact. We immediately picked out unassisted and were proceeding to do so when out of a number of the sets on shore and excitedly sat over the darkness came a man paddling on a surf board. our morning coffee recalling some of the scenes from Because of all the warnings our guard was suddenly up the movies. The whole place had a completely different as we anticipated aggressive panhandling or something feel and view from the nothingness seen through the worse. Instead, when the man spoke he welcomed us to black darkness of the night approach. his island, assuring us we had arrived at a safe island —Continued on next page

Okaou Boutique Souvenirs, Craft,Tee Shirts, Pareos, Bathing suits, Furniture and more… Bougainvilla Tel: (784) 458 8316 Bougainvilla@vincysurf .com Union Island Seaquarium Restaurant & Bar Seafood specialties, Live lobsters (Sept to Apr), Bar, Pizzeria, Pool, Table Games and its Giant Aquarium Res: VHF 16, Tel: (784) 458 8311 [email protected] The Dock Water Station, Dockage, Watertaxi, Ice (Blocks & Cubes), Bakery (French bread) Res: VHF 16, Tel: (784) 458 8878 [email protected] Wind and Sea Day Charter, Mayreau,Tobago Cays, Palm Island, Mopion Res: VHF 16, Tel: (784) 458 8878 [email protected] DECEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 26 and photos.Mountedonthe been usedinthemovieandnowdisplaysmemorabilia wandered intothehotelrestaurant,whichhadalso bay wasfullofboats,manythemsquare-riggers.We excitedly sharedtheirexperiences. years oldwhenthemovieswerebeingfilmedandthey talked toacoupleofyoungboyswhowerearoundten ning errandsoractingasextrasinthemovies.We Consequently manyofthefishermenendeduprun- they hadtakenovertheirfishinggroundsinthebay. movie companypaidthelocalfishermennottofishas learned thatduringtheshootingofmovies, pipes wereholdingthebuildingfrontstogether.We ing towanderbehindthesetswherescaffoldingand had notseenamoviesetbeforeandfounditinterest- movies andmatchingthemtothescenesbeforeus.We running wildwithflashesofremembrancetothe in varyingstagesofdecay,wefoundourimaginations around inspectingthesetsfrommovie,whichwere dinghy dockinfrontofthehotel.Aswewandered cook delectablefreshtunasteaksforbreakfast. jumped intoaction,lightingthebarbecue,preparingto and theyrowedawaytocontinuetheirfishing.Bill When thefishwashandedover,conversationended were genuinelyinterestedinusenjoyingSt.Vincent. joined infriendlyconversationabouttheirisland.They away, acoupleofotherfishermenapproachedand course, wasallincludedintheprice.Asheworked it onhisboat,keepingthemessoffofours.This, to purchaseitforonlyEC$40.Hecleanedandsliced We hadbeenwantingasmalltunaandweredelighted played astillglistening,nice-sized,freshly-caughttuna. an afterthoughtheaskedifwe’dlikeafish.Hethendis- respectful, offeringtofetchanythingwemightneed.As come ustotheisland.Hewaslow-key,politeand breathtaking views,amanrowedtoourboatwel- relaxed inthecockpitearlymorning,enjoying frompreviouspage —Continued We eventuallywentashore,tyinguptotherustic The morningbegantotakeonenrichedcolor.Aswe wall was a huge poster wall wasahuge They saidthewhole making usfeelcomfortable.Afterthemealtheyoffered available. Thehotelstaffwascourteousandrelaxed, to findthelatesteditionof As wewaitedforourmealwerehappilysurprised my firstglassoffreshguavajuice.Itwasdelectable. authentic anddeliciousCreolelunchwhereIalsohad there. Wecamebackforlunchandenjoyedan wise EC$10pernight,wouldbefreeifwehadameal could seewhatthesigningpersonlookedlike. showed someoftheactorssigningpostersoyou autographed bymanyoftheactors.Otherphotos In thehotelweconfirmedthatourmoorage,other- Caribbean Compass in theWesternhemisphere Below: St.Vincent’sBotanicalGardensaretheoldest Left: CreativesculptureatMorna’sCraftShop buying stopwehadeverexperienced. This turnedouttobethemostdelightfulvegetable- toes fromhisrefrigerator,ashehadnoneingarden. fresh lettucefromhisgardenandproducedafewtoma- However, wedidn’tleavebeforeBertholdpluckedsome visiting andlearnedmuchabouttheislandpeople. They alsomakeguavaliqueur.Wespentalmostanhour tique, alongwithavarietyofclothingandpaintings. basket weaversanddisplaythemforsaleintheirbou- adorning hisgarden.Heandmotherarealsoavid creations craftedfrompipes,carparts,cans,etcetera, owner, whoshowedushismanyunusualandartistic some freshgardenproduce.WemetBerthold,the Craft Shoptohavealookandinquireaboutbuying ering trees.WhilewalkingbackwestoppedatMorna’s where werestedonabenchinthecoolshadeoftow- mony gaveitamysticalfeel,likesteppingintomovie. their chores.Itwasarealsocialevent.Thenaturalhar- watch thewomenandchildrenhavingfunwhiledoing back ahundredyearsintime.Wefounditrefreshingto spreading theclothesonbushestodry.Itwaslikegoing clothes inthecreekusingrocksasawashboardand ery wesawacoupleofwomen,withchildren,washing heard gleefullaughingandchatter.Throughthegreen- rich greenjunglebrokenbyastonycreekwherewe There wasacoolingbreezeandweweresurroundedby recognize thestagesetsfromourday’svisit. to watchthateveningonourboat.Wewereable to lendusacopyofthePiratesCaribbeanDVD We hikedupthehilltoasmallwaterfallandpool Under theafternoonsunwesetoffonashorthike. —Continued onnextpage —Continued DECEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 27 , he burst into , he burst El Shaddai Routine Maintenance Professional Delivery New and Used Yacht Brokerage New and Used Yacht moved out to sea. , moved closer into the bay and appeared Authorized dealers Our brief stop at St. Vincent gave us a feeling of St. Vincent, from the perspective of Wallilabou Bay Our Lonely Planet Guide stated there were three Guide stated there Our Lonely Planet was stunning with St. George’s Anglican Cathedral Catholic Cathedral, The final church, St. Mary’s to the peace and quiet We began our journey back wanting to stay longer, confused with a need to continue south. Drawn by the stronger urge to move south, we pulled from the mooring. We are confident that the boats we saw going on by, and many who each day miss this brief stop, are missing a great experience on a very safe and interesting island. We can say confidently that where the books and boaters talk about the dangers and hassling hawk- ers, our experience showed no evidence of those concerns. As far as we could find, none of them exist any longer. and Kingstown, is overwhelmingly inviting and a worthwhile visit if you are tired of the usual, and seek- ing an exotic rest stop. singing the song “El Shaddai”, a popular Christian Shaddai”, the song “El singing 1980s by Amy Grant. song from the distance from downtown core, a short churches in the of their They were unique because where we were. was a The first one we reached interesting designs. renovat- that was being completely Methodist Church a piece of fur- workmen was refinishing ed. One of the interior as photo of the original church niture using a aqua blue was a startling bright a guide. The interior a large pipe the grey exterior. There was in contrast to altar. organ located across from the which were a strange con- its stained-glass windows and turquoise walls. A trast to the bright yellow invited us in to take a woman sitting at the entrance interested in seeing the look. We were particularly a red-robed angel. stained-glass window depicting it in honor of her Queen Victoria had commissioned it, citing that angels first grandson and then rejected Somehow this magnifi- in the Bible only wore white. to St. Vincent, and the cent work of art made its way beneficiary. The grounds Anglican Church became the filled with graves dating of the Anglican Church are back before the 1800s. architecture, including has a unique mixture of arches. We caught Gothic spires and Romanesque the courtyard which is glimpses of the interior from open to the public. of our moorage in mid-afternoon where we settled back on the boat for a delightful tuna dinner. As the day was waning, across the bay from us a group of local fishermen were setting up a net in a corner of the bay. They carefully laid the net out on the still water and then waited. Meanwhile, a fishing trawler, Betty Boop to be waiting for the local fishermen to bring in their catch. After what seemed like hours, the fishermen started hauling in their net, keeping the larger fish and shaking the smaller ones from the net back into the ocean. They worked patiently, tirelessly and co- operatively, each one having a specific task to perform in order to meet the needs of the trawler. Once the netted fish had been transferred onto the trawler, Betty Boop ward. We then had a short jaunt down the road to down the road a short jaunt then had ward. We were and we was short The lineup Immigration. effi- friendly and All officials were in minutes. through officer the Customs fact, when a matter of cient. As boat, name of our saw the www.horizon-yacht-sales.com www.horizonyachtmanagement.com www.horizonyachtmanagement.com Full Service Marinas Secure Moorings & Dockage Technical Installations Technical Caption Walking in downtown Kingstown we passed the live- One of our purposes for visiting Kingstown was to After Queen Victoria was ‘not amused’ by a red-robed angel, this window was given to St. George’s Anglican Church in Kingstown ple well spread out and the quiet was only broken by occasional parrot calls and the call of other birds. ly and colorful fresh fish and fruit/vegetable markets. They were clean and pleasing to the eye. The locals were busy going about their daily routines, paying little attention to us foreigners. We had a sense of genuine acceptance by the locals. check into the country. Customs does go to Wallilabou almost daily when there are boats to check in. We offered to attend their offices in Kingstown instead where we found check-in was easy and straightfor- mixed with varying shades of green. There are two There are shades of green. with varying mixed is the gardens. One in the great distinction trees of other in 1812. The in the wild tree, last seen Soufriere originally brought breadfruit tree of a is the offspring The William Bligh. by Captain from Tahiti to the island of St. where some a small aviary also contain gardens bred. As we parrots are being Vincent’s endangered of peo- grounds there were small groups wandered the [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] Three great locations, great one management service Three 268 562 4725 473 439 1000 599 544 3329 Antigua Grenada St. Martin Yacht Management Yacht Horizon Horizon Yacht Management . . . Horizon Yacht a dedicated private management service. We returned to our boat delighted with our decision delighted to our boat We returned we walked under sunny blue skies The next morning was broken by the Our focus on the fishmonger comes with a pur- Our sailing and visiting of islands Our day continued as we caught another local bus Just before reaching Kingstown, we got off the bus to stop at Wallilabou. As the afternoon sun began sun As the afternoon at Wallilabou. to stop at the overwhelm- we marveled into the sea sinking occa- only by the broken of peacefulness ing feeling What a wonderful in the trees. call of birds sional day. way to end the trees the canopy of green towering up the hill under Kearton Bay. road toward the town of along a paved neatly- by a few cars and colorful, We were met the road, as hurriedly walking along groomed women children groups of uniformed school well as small bus stop and school. We arrived at the heading off to truck serv- the road, a red, worn pickup found, across the fish- shop. A man announced ing as a fishmonger through a conch shell. monger by blowing bugle calls his fresh, glistening, odor- Another man scooped out in the back of his truck. He less catch from a large bin and bagged them for the weighed the fish on a scale gathered around waiting to women who were patiently make their purchase. us to Barrouallie. The arrival of a local bus to take but the bus was cau- road was winding and narrow driver. We found the tiously driven by a confident well appointed and countryside colorful, the buildings great care is taken to though there isn’t much money, keep the homes neat and maintained. of a non-profit foundation pose as we are members (www.schoolsbeyond- called Schools Beyond Borders we soon arrived in borders.com). In this stead greeted by an off-duty wait- Barrouallie where we were Wallilabou who had offered ress from the restaurant in of two schools serv- to introduce us to the principals ing the area in Barrouallie. We met with the principals of the elementary and secondary schools where we were pleased to add them to the Schools Beyond Borders Foundation program. Both schools are strug- gling, as are most schools in the Third World and developing countries. This program is designed to help where each participant in the program can do their little part in helping others in the world. heading to Kingstown, the capital of St. Vincent & the Grenadines. We prefer this way of exploring and adventuring in the country we are visiting. Aboard buses. we are able to meet and talk to local people as we travel. We feel comfortable and find in general the people on the bus are friendly, helpful and courteous. We were delighted by the flashing views along the very scenic coastline when it appeared. However, on this trip our bus driver must have been a Grand Prix enthusiast as he stretched the tolerances of the bus wheeling through the curves along the narrow road. We searched the faces of the other passengers, finding them relaxed and not concerned, and once again this reassured us. at the St. Vincent Botanical Gardens, the oldest botanical gardens in the Western Hemisphere. We were offered a guide but chose to wander independ- ently through the lovely grounds, encompassing 20 acres. Our impression was initially that it looked like an elaborate golf course with long stretching short cut green grass and well-placed trees. The gardens were out of flowering season and yet reds and violets were —Continued page from previous DECEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 28 Note thepassingplatform The riversideLaJoyaMarina,above,isonlyaccessiblebyboatorwalking the waterhyacinthsandgetbuzzedbyturquoise pay alotforatDisneyWorld. and takemeonthesortofadventurethatIwould the dockbalancingontrestlessunkintomud points downadock. keep inpractice. place andwhoisbrandingthedockplanksto the grizzledrancherwhorecentlybought on Guatemala’sRioDulce. WALKING THE I First Istepoverbarbedwireasteeterabove The plank,planksactually,runofftheendof It’s theonlyway,apartfromboat,togettown. To gototheshopsIhavewalkplank,literally. “Right behindyou,justkeepongoing.”He “So, where’sthepathintotown?”IaskGarin, last, surroundedbyjungleatLaJoyaMarina am here,onmyownboat,inhomeat by JuliaBartlett neath. Iturnleft. looks suspiciouslylikeacrocodilelurkingunder- perched abovetheswampwithsomethingthat wet day,thenaTjunction.Nosignpost. are slippery.”Iambecomingmyownnag. vine butstayontheplankafteranastywobble. at oneasIsliponawetpatchofwood.missthe trate ontheplank.” moving andvertigosetsin. to rightandIgettheimpressionthatplankis dragonflies. Waterweeddriftsundermefromleft The right-handplankseemstogoashack Next isaninclinethatwouldbeachallengeon “Remember thewetbitsareslippery, Tarzan-type vinesdripfromthetreesandIgrab “Don’t lookatthewater,”Itellmyself,“concen- the plank(right). —Continued onnextpage —Continued New SailLoft PLANK New SailLoft DECEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 29 A watch-pig sees me and comes to investigate…’ I cross more flowing water and something and water flowing more I cross I tell him. a minute,” you have to wait “Sorry, a passing platform and open Ahead I can see the out to be a school and The building turns with huge trucks, tankers The road is loaded along the cen- A continuous yellow line runs and wipe the I take a towel from my bag Finally I reach the jam-packed street of Just one cool one and I’ll be ready to cool and wet touches the back of my leg. I the back wet touches cool and up and from the waist Slowly I swivel freeze. eyes. It is pair of brown into a polite look down by me. to come a hurry, asking a dog in building in the distance. marsh with a concrete road is right there. huge turn towards the bridge, a and buses. I Rio of concrete that flies over the modern span leav- tree tops. I climb slowly, Dulce above the road of the trees at the side of the ing the shade sun into a harsh beating behind and emerging white concrete, that bounces back off the attacking from all sides at once. stopping and no ter of the road meaning no road disappears overtaking. In front of me the and up there on into a few puffy white clouds while drivers and the cusp vehicles are parked view. An enterpris- crew get out to look at the under a shade on ing local has chairs arranged pictures of visitors the sidewalk and is taking the view as a with an instant camera, using off and slots backdrop. He peels the laminate and the truckers them into a cardboard frame admire their own and tourists wander off to birds and the images, ignoring the soaring them. river and islands laid out beneath as I start down stinging sweat out of my eyes sizable settlement towards Fronteras, the only with the plants in these parts. I am at eye level that cling to the power cables and then the micro eco-systems in each of the trees. Plants growing on plants growing on plants. Nature crowding into any foothold it can find in the encroaching concrete. Fronteras and turn down the steps reeking of last night’s urine that lead off the road and then into the shade of Bruno’s Marina. The shade pours over me like cooling water and the noise of traffic fades miraculously away and bird song takes it place. enjoy the vibrant bustle of town. It’s all about pacing myself. 473 443 8783 VHF Channel 16 Aquanauts Dive Center www.truebluebay.com [email protected] Resort & Villas Indigo Car Rentals & Horizon Yacht Charters True Blue Bay Marina Dock, moor or set anchor at True Blue Bay located in the south Dock, moor or set anchor at True Blue Bay located marina and coast of Grenada and enjoy our full service and delicious fabulous accommodation. Caribbean cocktails Bar and dishes are a must at our waterside Dodgy Dock Lounge from Spice True Blue Restaurant. Located five minutes walk the airport. Island Marine Services and five minutes drive from Several planks further on there is another T on there is planks further Several a small figure rushes As I am recovering, cinco quetzales,” he chirps. “Fuerte, fuerte, the turning next I follow his instructions, ignoring “Cinco quetzales,” he repeats. yeah, sure. “Si, claro,” I reply, which means, to where laundry I weave my way onwards A young woman “¡Ten cuidado!” Be careful! for the same The fact that she has asked “Una via o dos vias?” “Por dia.” and forth as Okay, once I pay I can go back The path turns and I come to a passing plat- “Good pig, nice pig,” I croon as he sticks his “No,” I say firmly and he steps back, puts his junction. It’s a maze snaking beneath black- snaking beneath It’s a maze junction. of which, trees. Talking dripping trunked, above me in the branches a movement there is nasty wobble with another suddenly and I turn No it hits the water next to me. as something it was a three-ton bromeliad. wasn’t a snake; would severely injured me it Even if it hadn’t knocked me off the fantasy certainly have hit me. walkway if it had the way to turn. towards me, pointing five quetzales.” (One quetzal, “Strong, strong, or is worth about 35p the national currency, 70 cents US.) next one, the green to me and moving on to the a carpet now. duck weed beneath me forming line. The wire is flaps off a barbed wire washing my eyes out if I a just the right height to take to daydream. should become blasé enough the wire for me and steps out of the house, lifts smiles, “Cinco quetzales.” realise that this is amount as the boy makes me built it and are indeed a toll path. Well, if they they should be paid. maintaining it, it’s fair that many times as I want to that day, cool. I can see myself tripping along this path loaded with groceries, jugs of diesel and crates of beer, I don’t think! form and crossroads. To the right a pig is sleeping like a dog in front of a house. He sees me and comes to investigate. snout against the camera lens. head on one side and cocks his ears up like a dog. He is obviously oblivious to the fact that the humans he is guarding are going to murder him and eat him! —Continued page from previous DECEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 30 the truckandsaid a shortdelaygettingcoldbox,weputourgearinto were introducedtoPablo,ourguidefortheweek.After sleep inhammocks,butthereweretoiletsandshowers. the accommodationwouldbebasic.Wehaveto and whattotake:clothes,bugspray,etcetera.Hetoldus driver andguide.He’dalreadyexplainedouritinerary, tour organizerCarlosmetustheretointroduceour round thecornertoasmallbarforsomebreakfast.Our our rucksacks,saidgood-byetohostsandwalked Los Llanos,Venezuela’sfamoussavannahs.Wepacked leave our the Andes(seelastmonth’s had headedinlandtoexplore. enough forthesixofus,togetherwithsalad,vegeta- included inthetourprice;Pablosimplyorderedmeat sausages —youpaybythekilo.Ourfoodwasall against alogfire.Aswellasbeef,theyhadpork a sideofcowonbroomhandleroastingvertically ever. Notreallykebabs:theVenezuelanversionislike great restaurantwheretheyservethebestkebabs Our driver,Namier,arrivedwiththejeepandwe After afewdaysinthetownofMéridaatbase H Phone: +(5999) 4658936 Fax: 4658941 Email: [email protected] New marinecenterpresentsthelatestDutchinnovationinboathandling equipment. Yvonne, andIourfriendsChrisTony a marinaontheVenezuelancoast,mywife, aving leftourboats, posada Curaçao Marine (a kindofguesthouse)andmakefor adios Hauling capacity45tonsandCatamarans upto33ftbeam. to Mérida.Westoppedata ALL ASHORE… Chaser Compass and ), itwastimeto Waylander , at Safe drystoragewith24hourssecurity We arelocatedinthesafeharbor ofWillemstad. AWLGRIP® indoorspraypainting and manyotherservices. - Long-termstorage. our accommodation. just neededtochilloutinourroom.Wewereshown Rosa. We’dbeenontheroadforabout14hours,sowe the four-daystay:Nicolandro,owner,andhiswife caiman (atypeofalligator). darkness, tobegreetedoutsidethegatesbyasix-foot causing adelay,buteventuallywearrived,inthe National Guardstoppedusandcheckedourpapers, culent inthemiddle. I’ve evertasted,crispyburntontheoutsideandsuc- bles andhalfadozenCokes.Thiswasthebeststeak by PhilChapman GOING ‘BASIC’IN Well, YvonneandIhavelivedinSpainforthepast Inside thecampwewereintroducedtoourhostsfor We droveonandon;itwasalongwayin4x4.The VENEZUELA’S SAVANNAHS www.curacaomarine.com Our accommodation meansaroomwithoutTV,doesn’tit? these wordswouldappeartobe Venezuelan Spanishsomewordsaredifferent.Oneof 15 years,sowespeakabitofSpanish,butin end ofourhammocks. some dancing,Isuppose.Italsoservedtosupportone in thecentreofroom,caseyouwantedtodo from cockroachestolargespiders.Wedidhaveapole which houseditsowneco-systemofinsectliferanging hut withmud/cowdungwallsandastrawceiling through tiredeyes,butwewereshownintoaround and toilet.Bearinginmindwewerelookingatthis Left: OurfirsttripinLosLlanoswasbydugoutcanoe there aren’tany Above: Don’tworryaboutlumpymattresses— posada in Méridahadbeen“basic”:bed,shower —Continued onnextpage —Continued basico . Nowbasic DECEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 31 —Continued on next page We were probably three hours or more traveling across three hours or more traveling We were probably plantain, of beans, chicken, rice, After our meal climbing back into the jeep for a safari across some of the drier parts of the savannahs. Looking for wildlife, we saw capybaras, the world’s largest rodent, a three- foot-high guinea pig. We also saw caimans and anacondas. Anacondas frequent these areas in large numbers and can be up to 20 feet long. Unfortunately after recent heavy rains they were proving hard to find despite Nicolandro’s persistence walking through the marshes with bare feet, poking around with a stick. an outboard motor, up-river through the savannahs. through up-river motor, outboard an saw to see. We soon we wanted beautiful: what This was we see like the ones Nothing dolphins. some freshwater and dumb-looking pink, blind these were in the ocean, on far- Moving strange creatures. dorsal fins — with no and, as we stopped large iguanas, came across ther we slowly back- Nicolandro edged his boat to take photos, the water and dived head first into wards to the bank, ever seen. ugliest looking turtle we’ve brought out the where we got before returning to shore the savannahs lunch. jeep to return to the camp for back into our hours before a siesta for a couple of etcetera, we had Our first trip in Los Llanos was in a dugout canoe with Curfew came at eleven and lights were out. You’ve and lights came at eleven Curfew our ham- quickly checking We woke at day-break, mocks to see if anything had moved in. We took turns to venture outside to the amenities. Either the shower had been cleaned up or the frog had a large meal — the floor was empty. We checked the toilet to see if the bugs had moved house, but that was okay too. We took turns to stand under the hose pipe in the shower and have a chilly but refreshing rinse off. We were called in for breakfast; the table was filled with bread, ham, scrambled eggs, fresh passionfruit juice and coffee. with the light of day things would look different. different. look would things of day the light with of a hand in front “Can’t see the expression, heard a lit- which was It was black, we couldn’t. you’”? Well, way to had to give that we knowing tle disconcerting in inside the camp the camp, and outside an alligator The noises were two boa constrictors. one of the trees with chickens imagination run wild too, outside let the we’d never mooing and many sounds squawking, cows couldn’t help — so much so, we just heard before which helped all got a fit of the giggles, laughing. We that and avoid hearing the footsteps us go to sleep going on inside our hut. were no doubt Left: Our hut. We took turns to venture outside to the amenities Right: Posing for photos with a not-pleased-looking caiman, who was soon released when the generator is turned off, which is is turned off, generator when the PM We strolled rather quickly back to our hut, wondering It wasn’t all bad: we did have an electric light bulb. electric light did have an all bad: we It wasn’t how to explain this to the girls. But what the hell, we’re all transatlantic sailors, and now backpackers — we can handle these things. Well, we had to because there was nowhere else around for 50 miles and even there their accommodation was the same. We didn’t unpack our bags; we just raised them off the floor into spare hammocks so we didn’t get any unwanted occupants. We accompanied each other to the toilet (Tony took his machete) before rolling into our hammocks hoping that quite fortunate in some ways as the single-cylinder quite fortunate our hut. thumping away just outside Lister diesel was brick-walled door to the shower to see a I opened the marble floor. black-and-white-speckled shower and a it was a white On closer inspection Oops! Wrong again. together with 200 bugs and roaches floor covered with door — fast! of a rabbit. We closed the a frog the size bad. as bad. Bad, but not that The dunny wasn’t The toilet block was across the field outside. Tony and outside. Tony across the field block was The toilet a one of us needed in case we’d investigate I thought only till too, but had a lightbulb, The toilets night visit. 11:00 —Continued page from previous —Continued from previous page horses seemed to know who is boss, and it certainly when the bus turned up at midnight our group of It was getting near dark so we started to make our wasn’t us. They go when they want to go and stop seats wasn’t available. In fact, we thought there way home, but Wilfredo, Nicolandro’s son-in-law, saw when they want to. Wilfredo managed to come a little weren’t any seats at all, but after a little fuss four indi- a caiman dive into the water as we drove past. He told closer and call our horses and they trotted towards vidual seats were found. We didn’t lose much time the driver to stop and he and Nicolandro jumped over him. The anteater was a great find; we were lucky to going to sleep and I didn’t wake until 5:00AM when the a fence and ran into the water (again with no shoes), see one this time of year. They are apparently a mem- bus made a stop. At that time some people got off, poking around with a stick in one hand and a lasso in ber of the bear family; in Spanish they are called an which meant Chris and Tony could come out of the the other. Wilfredo managed to do the rope work and ant-eating bear and when you see their large claws boot and I could go back with Yvonne and we had four as the noose tightened there was much thrashing you can understand why. around in the water until Nicolandro jumped on the It was time now to trek back, but my horse came to a caiman’s back, and this was only a small one! They standstill and despite talking to it nicely, giving it a swift managed to lift it out of the water and bring it back to kick in the groin and a whip on the shoulder, it would- the road where they tied some string around its snout. n’t move, and as usual the Waylanders were out in front. We all took our turns for the photo shoot. After the Wilfredo came over. He didn’t shout, just blew a kiss to release, four very satisfied sailors, backpackers, and my horse and it took off like a scud missile, blasting past now wildlife hunters were driven back to camp for the Chris and Tony and leaving them to eat my dirt for the evening meal. After dinner we had a quick chat with first time. Okay, granted, I fell off, these things have no the family and our guide before falling into our ham- brakes, and no mainsheet to release. It did eventually mocks for our second night. stop and while I was peering up at its belly, I considered We were beginning to accept our conditions a little how fortunate I was, for three reasons: one, I didn’t fall more now, realizing too that we had the top-end tour in cow dung; two, I didn’t fall in water; and three, I was- because our ten-seater jeep had only the four of us in n’t wearing my new super-cool cowboy hat and poncho it. Our hut, too, would normally have had to accom- — then I would have felt stupid! modate any other passengers in our jeep. Chris and My horse calmed down after being a bit skittish and Tony are good friends, they respect our privacy as we we all trotted off back home. Yvonne, Chris and Tony do theirs, but another four strangers would have been didn’t laugh — much! too much, I think. Our final morning we got an early start, but our bus Next day after breakfast we were back aboard the back to Puerto La Cruz wasn’t leaving the terminal till jeep for a trip upriver to do some piraña fishing. We about ten o’clock at night so we decided to treat our- were all given handlines and some meat in order to selves and our guide Pablo to a white-water rafting catch the voracious eating machines for our dinner trip. It was an eight-hour drive from the camp to the These ‘charter’ horses seemed to know who is boss, that night. That we did; we even have the jaws to prove river, so we said our good-byes to Nicolandro, Rosa and it certainly wasn’t us! it. It was very hot, though, and I was feeling the heat and Wilfredo before heading off with Pablo. for some reason that day, but come 1200 hours, we We arrived at the river at about 1:30PM. Our driv- seats together in comfort again. headed back to the camp for lunch. I wasn’t too hun- er went to collect the boat from somewhere up-river. Arriving back at Puerto La Cruz around 2:00PM we gry as Yvonne and I are not used to eating so much The raft guide was with him when he returned with jumped into a cab and were whisked to our respective especially at midday, but Chris and Tony didn’t let us the boat on the roof of the jeep. We all lifted it off and boats. Oh! the luxury, clean soft beds, no bugs, clean down — they managed to make our cook feel needed. slid it down the river bank, then walked down some toilets and hot water, television, cold wine and a rum After our siesta it was horse-riding time. This was steps to carry it across to a safe entry point. Our and Coke — with ice! one activity Yvonne wasn’t looking forward to. She new guide explained the rules: strap your feet in, Did we enjoy the ten days? Would we do it again? doesn’t like heights, especially wobbly ones, but she then, when he says, paddle frantically either forward It was fantastic, we all had a great time, we would do was given a sleepy horse and we all trotted off. About or backward according to command. If needs be, it all over and we’d recommend it to everyone. I do an hour along the road our young horse-riding guide, stop paddling and get down inside the boat, then believe though, if our jeep had been full and we had Wilfredo, a great horseman, said we should go cross when told, get back in position and paddle. This was not been able to stretch out on a sideways-facing country through the water to look for wildlife. I didn’t all in Spanish — it’s a good way to learn the lan- seat for 12 hours, the ride would have been very really fancy my horse stepping on an alligator but guage when your life depends on it! The rafting trip uncomfortable. Also, sharing a hut with many Wilfredo assured us there was no problem. We were was fantastic and a great finale to our ten days strangers with no facilities or space to put things about a mile inside the water-logged fields when away. We were soaked, but got changed and back in would not have been much fun. So, just being the Wilfredo galloped off, — he saw something in the dis- the jeep, and then were driven 20 miles or so back four of us worked. Chris and Tony are great compa- tance. It was a giant anteater, which he rounded up, to the bus terminal. ny, we all enjoyed ourselves and are looking forward then shouted at us to come closer. Now these “charter” The bus was late, we were tired and smelly, and to another adventure together. DECEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 32

DECEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 33 tel: 440-2310 tel: grenada Contact : Anke Contact : Anke Guadeloupe – F.W.I Guadeloupe down through the islands and REAL SAILORS Street’s Guides are available the coast of Venezuela to the ABCs. Phone : + 590 (0) 590 831 775 Phone : + 590 STREET’S GUIDES New & Second-Hand Chandlery New & Second-Hand E.mail : [email protected] Written by an author with 50 years of sailing at bookshops and chandleries, or from Open 6 days a week except Sundays Open 6 days cover the Eastern Caribbean from Puerto Rico Charts – Sails - Book Exchange etc… Charts – Sails BUY STREET’S GUIDES exotic arts + crafts interior design e-mail: [email protected] Jewelry, Wooden-Ware & Hammocks

rare + young street st. georges experience in the Caribbean, the series’ four volumes Real sailors also buy the other guides, that have pretty Real sailors circle in Street’s Guide the anchorages that Real sailors use Street’s Guides for inter-island and harbor www.iUniverse.com and www.seabooks.com ARE MORE ECONOMICAL! Close to Marina Bas-du-Fort - Pointe à Pitre Bas-du-Fort - Pointe Close to Marina Dutch – English – French – German spoken Dutch – English – French S C H I P - O - C A S E C A S - O - H I P S C Your Caribbean Marine Flea Market Caribbean Your pictures and describe hotels, bars, restaurants and anchorages that are popular with bareboaters. are not described in the other guides. This enables them to find quiet anchorages far from “The Madding Crowd”. piloting directions, plus interesting anecdotes of people, places and history. Street’s Guides are the only ones that describe ALL the anchorages in the Eastern Caribbean. The trip between some ing fish. islands is not long; for instance, the commute between St. Kitts and such as dolphins and fly- great marine life on the way, While travelling from St. Kitts ferry. You also might get to see the passengers on the other and Huevos. When the tide is low, you can see caves along the coast of some of these offshore islands. between some of the closer offshore islands including Monos along the way, you pass to Nevis, it is fascinating to see are inaccessible. For instance, the lush green landscape give way get to see parts of Trinidad that Nevis only lasts 20 minutes. Sometimes I think that you can to the dry desert-like conditions of the Southern Peninsula. Sometimes make sure you have a good view. You Whether sitting inside or on deck, two ferries cross and you get to wave at waters at this point. flicting currents cause the rough enters the Atlantic Ocean and the con- the great South American Orinoco River where the sea gets quite rough, called the Bocas. This is where the outflow of From my ferry rides and listening to the experiences The bigger boats also carry more cargo. On the larg- The bigger boats also carry major concern many peo- As I say this, I know that a If you decide to stay inside, you could have a proper On the way to the sister island of Tobago, you never be late for the ferry, because they usually wait an extra 10 minutes in case anyone is late. This is a short but vital link between islands. Can you believe ordering a meal from St. Kitts and getting it delivered to Nevis? How cool is that! With such short commutes it is expected that besides visiting, some people work and go to school on neighbouring islands. Therefore, it is only natural that travelling on the ferry gets crowd- ed, such as at the start and end of the work and school day. In Trinidad and Tobago, since the trip is long, most Trinidadians would go over for the weekend, as a sort of mini-vacation. of others, one thing I have to say in closing — the route may be the same but every trip is unique. with passage on the slower vessels costing less. There with passage on the slower to take your own vehi- are additional fees if you want depends on whether cle. The duration of the journey (shorter trip) or against you are going with the current the current (longer trip). of booking a cabin, and er vessels you have the option however it will cost extra. at night this can be a plus, bring a blanket or sleeping To cut costs, some people couches or on the floor. mat and sleep in chairs, an experience, on these Travelling at night is quite a night crossing back to long boat rides. I recall on sat in the first row of seats Trinidad, my friends and I bit choppy and you could at the bow. The sea was a and feel every time the see the outline of the waves ship went over a wave. on the sea is motion ple would have about travelling are prone to it, please take sickness. If you know you on board. Besides medi- some medicine before getting cine one preventative measure that has worked for me is not eating any greasy or heavy meals just before departure or on the ferry. When I get hungry during the trip, I munch on crackers or some fruit, such as apples or grapes. meal — either one you brought with you or one bought on board. Ferries between Trinidad and Tobago sell food, and there are also sections on the ferry where you can look at a movie during the trip on wide-screen televisions. Different sections show different movies during the trip. have to go around the top of the Trinidad as it is not possible to put a port at Toco, which is the closest point between the two islands, owing to the rough currents. As you travel around the north coast you can see the different seaside vil- lages and our capital city of Port-of-Spain. There is a point at the northwestern tip of the island

by Jo-Anne Nina Sewlal by Jo-Anne The Caribbean The Ferry Experience Ferry Waiting for the ferry to arrive or depart is a good time When on ferries you have two options; you can pass Some countries in the Caribbean are two-island or Some countries in the Caribbean at all? Well, the most But why endure this commute friends and vacation on I am from Trinidad and visit When it comes to buying tickets, in some islands you to strike up conversations with fellow passengers and find out more about your destination from a local’s point of view. Of course these conversations do not have to end on boarding. To me this is more valuable than what you would find in a travel guide or brochure. But waiting need not be boring: you often have ped- dlers plying their trade outside the ferry terminal and you can buy food, craft items, souvenirs or fruits. the time inside or on the deck, depending on your mood and, more importantly, the weather. The trip to Tobago is quite long, lasting two hours by catamaran (fast ferries as they are locally called), or five hours on a slower vessel. But I must note that the cost varies, Then again sometimes just pur- chasing the ticket gets a little confusing, like paying for parts of the ticket at different locations. For instance in St. Kitts-Nevis, you buy the ticket at one counter and around the corner is another window where you pay the departure tax. tri-island states and getting between some of these tri-island states and getting But the most affordable islands can be done by air. It provides the opportu- and enjoyable way is by ferry. features not seen from nity to take photos and view you get a flat view and only the air. When you go by air about to land. But when see details when you are just to see much more. you travel by boat you get friends and family. Then obvious answer is to visit island is also a again, travelling to a neighbouring Ferries are how some of means of going on a vacation. material — for example, the smaller islands also get — from the larger and food and building materials isle. usually more commercial sister Tobago often, so the most the neighbouring island of I also have friends in St. economical way is by ferry. method of travel when I Kitts-Nevis and ferrying is the go between those islands. can buy your ticket ahead of time to sail for a certain day or on the day of the sailing, as with the ferry between Trinidad and Tobago. And, similarly to an airport, you have to arrive a certain period of time before you depart and get your ticket confirmed and wait to board. In Grenada you buy your ticket for the ferry to the sister island of Carriacou just before entering the ferry. DECEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 34 board ashesteeredunfailinglydayandnightinall far themostpopularandhardworkingcrewmanon worked perfectly.WenameditGeorge;hebecameby departure. OnTuesdayafternoonwesetoutagain. to leave,sothisfactaddedyetmoreurgencyour Customs andImmigrationtoreportthatwehadfailed Electronics backonboard.Ididn’twanttogo re-launch thedinghyonTuesdaymorningtofetchCay once morebackinFalmouth.Wehadtore-inflateand not successfulsowehadtoturnbackandanchor autopilot itsfirstseatrialaswewent.Thewas I walkedovertoEnglishHarbourcheckout. Marina forfuelandwater.Whileweweretiedupthere, dinghy beforewetook to putseaonMonday.Wedeflatedandrolledupthe stowage oftoolsandspareparts.Thenhewasgone. mation thathecouldabouttheboat,engineand day onboard,passingeverypossiblepieceofinfor- them onSaturdaythe9th.AlanspentSunday,hislast autopilot partsatlastarrived,soCayElectronicsfitted mination togetunderwayassoonpossible.The for thenextfewdaysgaveaddedurgencytomydeter- soon aspossible.Aforecastofagoodsoutheastbreeze cane season,soIwasgettingtwitchyaboutleavingas “Sailing Master”. UK andwhohadsailedon agile nowadays,David,whohasayachtofhisownin the boat.Iwouldbenavigator,butasamnotvery would havetoflyhome,leavingthethreeofussail prised thanweweretohearthedoctor’sorders.Alan looking soillandweak,Ithinktheywerelesssur- When theyarrivedhadbeenshockedtoseeAlan arrived byairfromUKtocrewthepassagewithus. a bombshell:headvisedusthatAlanshouldnotsail. through afewdayslater,thedoctorhadtodeliverus sent Alanforvarioustests.Whenthetestresultscame capital, St.Johns,wasverythoroughandhelpful would havetoseeadoctor.Dr.FullerinAntigua’s proposed departuredatethatwerealizedhe would getoverit.Itwasonlyaweekorsobeforeour hoping thatitwasjusta“tummybug”andhe feeling unwellforfullyfourweeks;wehadbothkept The newpartswereordered. as weknewithadsuitedtheboatperfectlyinpast. known model.ButwedecidedtostickwiththeAlpha, sidered replacingitwithamorerecentandbetter- be replaced.Whenthisbadnewsarrived,weevencon- mended thatboththeramandcontrolboxhadto entire thingbacktotheUSAandmakersrecom- seemed tobefamiliarwithit.CayElectronicssentthe Our “Alpha3000”isanoldmodel;noonelocally Europe atanchorinFalmouthHarbour,Antigua. pared ouryacht, it wastimetogohome.MyhusbandAlanandIpre- Leaving theCaribbean: • Visa/MasterCardaccepted • Activitydesk(Tours, diving andwatersportactivities) • Lightboatrepairand cleaning • Yachtchandleryagents ofBudgetMarine • Telephone&internet WIFIconnection • Garbagedisposal • Cleanrestroomsandshowers • Bakery • Ice&Provisioning(Grocerystore) • Nightsecurity • Securedmoorings • Nearbylaundryservice • Dinghydock • Fuel(MarineDiesel)/Wateratthedock • DinghyBar This time,toourreliefanddelight,theautopilot We leftAntiguaonMondayafternoon,givingthe The threeofusplannedtowastenomoretimebut It wasalreadywellintoJune,thestartofhurri- By thistimeourfriendsDavidandGrahamhad Our secondproblemwasAlan’shealth.Hehadbeen Our firstproblemwastogettheautopilotrepaired. After anextendedperiodofcruisingintheCaribbean, Skybird’s & soonMercuryMarine Antigua toAzores Skybird Skybird , forourpassagebackto [email protected] www.dominicamarinecenter.com Capitainerie Tel:+7672752851 Skybird THE CITYOFROSEAU UNIQUE INDOMINICA VHF: 16WorkingCH:19 Fax: +7674487701 SITUATED IN to theYachtClub before, wouldbe by MaryRobinson Transatlantic, but hecouldn’thearme.Radiointerferencecausedby make contact;IcouldhearChrisveryfaintlyon8137 had togiveup.ByThursdayIwasreallyanxious mended atthisdistance)butcouldhearnothingand Chris againon12350(thefrequencythatwasrecom- contact withChrisontheradio.ThenextdayItried morning, soIhadnochancewhatsoeverofmaking the skyandgreatcrashesofthunderpealedaroundus. genoa. Thesquallhit;rainlasheddown,lightningsplit shout of“Pullthis!”Theysetareefandfurledhalfthe gentle starttothemorningwasinterruptedbyDavid’s berth, planningtoquietlymakehimselfacupoftea.His clouds builtupastern.Grahamemergedfromhis due backontheairuntilfollowingTuesday. but hehadtakenalongweekendbreakandwasn’t last. BynowIwantedtogetChrisontheradioagain, ly breezeandsetthesailsturnedoffengineat searing rays.Northofthehighwepickedupawester- over thecockpitdodgertoreduceimpactof was directlyoverhead;weriggedupawhiteawning pressure itwasappallinglyhot.Thesunatmidday the nexttwodaysifwewantedtomakeanyprogress. Atlantic totheBahamas.Wewouldhavemotorfor sive blockingareaofhighpressurethatlayfrommid- Thereafter, hewarnedthatwewouldencounteramas- east windforourfirsttwodays,headingnorth. for thepassage.Ashepredicted,wehadafairsouth- tomised weatherinformationviasingle-sidebandradio called foranextrahandondeck. on andeighthoursoffunlessthepersonwatch conditions. Therestofusstoodwatchesfourhours eight off of fourhourson, they stoodwatches from theCaribbean, During thepassage Pymouth, England. crew onarrivalat Skybird’s John Cawsey,Yachtmaster,Instructor over 8DaysinBequia Shore BasedCourses The thunderstormslastedforoveranhourthat On Tuesdaymorning,Davidwasonwatchasdark The weatherwasexactlyaspredicted.Inthehigh I hadregisteredwithChrisParkertoreceivecus- PO Box30,Port Elizabeth,Bequia Starts Monday3rdDec2007 Day Skipper& Yachtmaster Write Johnc/oJeanWebb reduced or phone(784) 457-3623 with your phonenumber until 14thApril2008 or text0780781 3123 Cost 1900$EC when helefttheboatbackinAntigua. met byAlan,wholookedawholelotbetterthanhehad arrived atPlymouth,UK,whereweweredelightedtobe Navtex transmissionslater.Afterafurthertendayswe but didthebestIcouldwithInternetbeforeleavingand again. ImissedChrisParker’shelpwiththeweather taxi touroftheislandtoadeliverydieselpier. news. Thisiswhereyoucanarrangeanythingfroma this iswhereeveryonemeetstoexchangechatand it isanassemblypointforlocalsandyachtiesalike; al itemsonthemenu.)Thisismorethanarestaurant, octopus butthereisagoodrangeofmoreconvention- very good.(Personally,Irecommendtheirlocalfried Restaurant. Theserviceisveryfriendlyandthefood vegetables. the shopshadverysparsestocksoffreshfruitand to walk),and,despitetheobviousfertilityofisland, is up-hill(exhaustingafter16dayswithonlythedeck before leaving.Therewereonlytwosnags:everything that therewasnoneedforanyfurtherformalities document onthebonnetofhiscarandassuredus policeman whometusonthedock-side.Hefilledina Customs andImmigrationconsistedofafriendly beautiful, unspoiltandwelcomingofallislands.Even appear tobeintheleastpleasantorawelcoming. breakwater, thedarkwindsweptharbourdidnot the mountainstomeetus.Asweroundedmassive Lajas thecloudsweptdowninacoldgreyblastfrom thick whitecloud.Butaswenearedtheanchorageof out ofAntigua.Thetoptheislandwasmaskedin time wemadelandfallintheislandofFlores,16days distant whaleasweapproachedtheAzores. to seeafewfishingboats,theoccasionaldolphinor phosphorescence bynight.Afterafortnightwebegan bathed insunlightbyday,litupmoon,starsand trace ofanaeroplaneinthesky.Justempty,ocean cal miles.Wehardlysawanyshipping,noreventhe Skybird relays wereinvaluable.Manythankstoallconcerned. times theweatherroutingadvicewasexcellentand few dayslater.AgainIwashelpedbyarelay.Both relay. ThesamethinghappenedwhenItriedagaina worse. ButeventuallyIgotthroughwiththehelpofa e-mails orfaxtransmissionsmademattersmuch lcrnc,Cadey Rigging Chandlery, Electronics, www.midatlanticyachtservices.com After adelightfullyrelaxedweekinLajaswesetsail The bestthingofallaboutLajasisPaula’s Our firstimpressionwaswrong.Floresisthemost The sunstillshone,butitwasblowinghardbythe The restofthetripwasreasonablyuneventful. PT-9900-144 HORTA /FAIAL YACHT SERVICES EU-VAT (15%) Importation Bunkered Fuel(+10,000lt) for Trans-Atlantic Yachts FAX +351292391656 TEL +351292391616 [email protected] MID ATLANTIC went well;ourbestday’srunwas181nauti- Services &Repairs Services Providing allvital AZORES DECEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 35 . ?” , she winter why gibberish for a second, he here.” buy so good , at least during the , at least during out , and sculpt, paint, that sort of , and sculpt, ! .” ahht “I mean, how many times can you eat times can you how many “I mean, to pick up her suitcase. “Hal’s got much thought Bruno, jumping to his feet. It was too thought Bruno, jumping to break a nail break realize this ain’t Paradise, not even close.” realize this ain’t Paradise, not do needed it back , you know? I want , you know? I , I’ll , I’ll I imagined.” Never Mind here. The sea. The sky. Reggae. Strapping black men here. The sea. The sky. Reggae. Bruno wondered. Bruno , thought Bruno. I may be the only man alive to have toilet like, disgusting. like, disgusting. in him?” Bruno wondered out loud. yacht out of Bellevue!” Bruno shouted, getting to the point, as out of Bellevue!” Bruno shouted, rat race for a living, Miss Vassar?” for a living, Miss see ” Bruno hissed, puffing out his chest like a lizard. ! — Bramley’s Beach Bar. ? A spoiled Jewish princess? What did I expect? I should feel ? A spoiled Jewish princess? ?” she spat out at Bruno. She poured her drink in the sand, ?” she spat out at Bruno. She poured her drink in the ! Don’t you think? I’m afraid I’m, like… falling for him.” something you, work shrew … about it. But you ! get the hell problem like gorgeous The nerve of that bastard, . I go up into Harlem twice a week. Volunteer work. With young black and work. With young black twice a week. Volunteer . I go up into Harlem heard and I did it do the wedding to tell Rene about her half-brother in the Tuamotus. the wedding to tell Rene about her half-brother in the Take it “This sure isn’t quite the isn’t quite “This sure this? can I stand How long — local language understand the she couldn’t that She complained Things were just beginning to thaw between them when Hal Everton’s radar drew him Things were just beginning to you “Shit, Bruno, I didn’t know “ “Is this about Jeanette? She’s gone back to Sacramento.” “I… don’t… “I can’t possibly pump the the pump possibly “I can’t “Tell me, do you “Tell me, do you “Yes, I “And for how long may I expect the pleasure of your company?” asked Bruno, able of your company?” asked long may I expect the pleasure “And for how some property to is, I thought I’d check out “Funny thing A chill ran down Bruno’s back and he tried not to shudder. “Really, but not to shudder. “Really, Bruno’s back and he tried A chill ran down such a “New York’s just “Yeah, I “Yeah, but there’s decided to skip work and take Rene to the beach. She Since it was Saturday Bruno and chips lunch. There was no denying Rene’s physi- They swam and had a fish Six months later, Bruno sat on deck on a clear and windy winter’s morning at Six months later, Bruno sat on deck on a clear and Weird how things work out Hal stared right into Bruno’s eyes and smiled in his disarming manner. “So?” Hal stared right into Bruno’s eyes and smiled in his disarming as hard as he could, Hal fell The cheek of it enraged Bruno. He pushed Hal’s chest the element of surprise, the He had lost it momentarily but realized that without to see if he was all right. His triumph turned to ashes when Rene ran over to Hal Later that day she returned to “He’s so… smile. He would wait until Bruno sucked in smoke and exhaled with a satisfied “What the hell do you called it, and the food was, and the food called it, grateful she cared enough to look me up. I haven’t exactly been a model father. grateful she cared enough sat down next to her, ignoring Bruno, and began chat- in a beeline towards Rene. He ting her up! the snot-nosed marsupial!” He reached over, grabbed much for him to bear. “You little… him to his feet. “Where’s my wheel puller?” neck of Hal’s T-shirt, and yanked he shoved Hal onto a concrete step at the beach’s edge. he shoved Hal onto a concrete macaroni pie and a salad made of sliced carrot and diced cucumber? Yuck!” and diced cucumber? sliced carrot salad made of pie and a macaroni I teach them to appreciate Hispanic children. thing.” no longer. to contain himself And then there’s the whole 9/11 thing.” And then there’s Dad?” — hey, I’m just teasing you… and brought along a pale green silk pareo and her pre- squeezed into a white bikini Bruno’s inflatable dinghy for ten minutes to a desert- cious handbag. They motored adorned by a single wooden shack with a sign outside, ed beach, 400 yards long, Karaoke every Fri. night whenever she opened her mouth. How could my daugh- cal presence, but he cringed ter be such a… a dawn, smoking a cigarette, smiling at the delicious irony of it. Rene and Hal were dawn, smoking a cigarette, smiling at the delicious irony Wallace house, which Rene planning an island wedding later that month at the old ex-pats from Maggie’s bar and had bought. Everyone would be there — the combined local friends, clients, and for- Musket’s bar and an even greater number of Bruno’s families — over 120 people mer employees, some with their children and extended in all. backwards, and they rolled around in the sand for what seemed an eternity before backwards, and they rolled around in the sand for what off and they were separated Hal’s head was pushed down, then Hal bucked Bruno suffered a minor nosebleed by massive Wayne Alleyne, a local weight-lifter. Hal and a graze over his right where Bruno’s elbow had clipped him by accident, that and danced on his toes. eye. Bruno pretended to have to be restrained by Wayne felt younger man would surely have prevailed. Oh, but it “What is your forehead and nose. Hal was wrapped the ice in her silk pareo, and applied it to Hal’s offered sympathy. happy to stare at her cleavage while she clucked and son and daughter. Soon she’ll simultaneously lost a shrew and a rival and gained a need it! be Hal’s headache — and good bloody luck to him, he’ll after thought. more space on his catamaran,,” she said, matter-of-factly. . I , he will , and watched the , and watched She’s moving on board Never Mind of a trip she had getting here, to do with me, in fact, she didn’t want ?” nightmare !” me were suspect. He would have to put it to Hal were suspect. He would have ” ?” Still nothing. nothing me?” Rene said, suddenly turning on him. “Did that much Part Two them call by Bob Berlinghof daughter! Goldman , is more like it! COMPASS FICTION COMPASS about me

Coffin . He thought of trying to get Hal banished from Bellevue island’s . He thought of trying to get ? She never even told

father, and I…” I’m afraid.” , later Sarah Another incredibly sublime dawn, less hazy than yesterday, not so sublime dawn, less hazy Another incredibly real gone,

not give a shit THE RIVALS RIVALS THE told you sorry. Sarah was… incandescent. I’m sorry she didn’t feel the same way sorry. Sarah was… incandescent. I’m sorry she didn’t so He was considering the ramifications of using the tire iron as a prop, when a local He was considering the ramifications called a female voice, with a grating New York “Hello? Bruno Frankenheim?” below for a towel. When he emerged, she was strug- Bruno was naked and went Bruno. “And watch the teak!” “Take off the heels!” screamed operator handed her up a little black handbag “Sorry,” she said. The water-taxi “Hold on a minute,” said Bruno. older than 30. “I get all con- “Can you pay the man, please?” asked the woman, no annoyed, to the young man, “Take it off what you owe me, Franklin,” said Bruno, around his loins, won- “To what do I owe this pleasure?” said Bruno, towel wrapped “Oh?” “Breast cancer.” “I’m out about you in her “Well, we have to look on the bright side. I only found “How is ol’ Sarah?” “She’s… “You don’t have e-mail, and evidently you don’t get your snail mail either,” she “You don’t have e-mail, and evidently you don’t get held out her hand which “To make a long story short, I am Rene Goldman.” She “But you knew her as Sarah Bernstein… in the Bahamas… back in November, “But you knew her as Sarah Bernstein… in the Bahamas… “My daughter? You are my “So she “So you just pretended I didn’t exist?” “No, I sailed around the world on two different boats. I was pretty busy myself. “Not much light down here, is there? When was the last time you painted? “Does it always smell like old socks and diesel oil? “That’s the shower? Bruno sat in the cockpit of his 38-foot steel ketch, the cockpit of his 38-foot steel Bruno sat in Bruno hadn’t been hard to find. The young water-taxi driver knew him — he owed “Why didn’t you ever write or “Good or bad?” “Bad. Said you were a — quote — cantankerous old fart.” a soft-boiled egg, toast, Bruno dressed and offered his daughter breakfast. Over straight brown hair — she Yet he could not help but be distracted by her shiny Then she began to describe the absolute “Hey, wait, that’s not really fair. I knew you existed, yes. But when I offered your double-ended fishing boat clunked astern of the cockpit. double-ended fishing boat accent. “Can I come abawd?” clumped up the boarding ladder in tiny-strapped gling onto the aft deck, having wearing a white blouse under a tight-fitting grey leather Manolo Blahnik heels, grey skirt, very smart indeed. Armani jacket with a matching suitcase. and an oversized Louis Vuitton him too much.” fused with this local currency, and I don’t want to pay who waved and motored away. that he didn’t recognize this dering if his memory had really deteriorated so badly young, pert, and possibly sex-starved woman before him. like in the old Westerns: “This town ain’t big enough for the both of us.” like in the old Westerns: “This about me.” began, moving unsteadily before ducking under the awning and sitting down hard began, moving unsteadily before ducking under the awning clutched the handbag in her in the cockpit. She left the suitcase on the aft deck but lap like a hand grenade. she continued, “Daughter of he firmly shook. When he failed to recognize her name Sarah Bernstein thought, but the implications of her suitcase were threatening as well as thrilling. thought, but the implications of her suitcase were threatening 1977? I was born the following August.” Look, now that you’re here, why don’t you sleep in the forepeak? I promise you, no mosquitoes.” As he showed her below, she was frank about the less than luxurious appointments. ex-pat community for sins real and imagined, because he was running out of real and imagined, because he was running out ex-pat community for sins Hal out to the authorities. Only wimps did that. He was options. He would never rat it occurred to him that a threat with a tire iron might not fond of violence, though Hal would be, a threat. Banishment wasn’t gonna fly — do the trick. But that’s all it set at Musket’s bar — only the Old Guard would was too popular with the younger few of rally behind Bruno, and a Bruno 50 bucks for an outboard repair. sun streak the sky orange and lit his second cigarette of the day, with his second cigarette of the day, sky orange and lit his second sun streak the cup of coffee. much Sahara dust the overcrowded flight to Barbados, the smelly, cramped connecting flight and terri- fying taxi ride, the missed ferry. At the ferry dock a local gaff-rigged sloop was loading cargo for Bellevue and the captain had offered her a ride. She was seasick and there were chickens shitting all over the deck! Chickens! Shitting! All over the deck! She had sailed into Bellevue after 9:00 PM and stayed the night at the Blue Sky Guest House, a place (“can you believe it?”) with NO AIR CONDITIONING! By dawn mosquito bites had dotted her arms and legs, forcing her to check out and look for Bruno’s boat. you really mango slice, and coffee he heard her abbreviated story. Her mother, a violinist with mango slice, and coffee he heard her abbreviated story. pregnant and determined to the New York Philharmonic, had returned to New York Goldman before Rene was take as little time off as possible. She had married Lou Rene a fortune when his born. Goldman, a real estate developer, left Sarah and rain. Rene was just 16. Rene Cadillac ran under a tractor trailer on I-95 in heavy than she could spend while had had boarding schools, Vassar, and more money hard, if her clothes were any- growing up (though she must have tried pretty damn but he could smell that they thing to go by; Bruno knew nothing of brand names were expensive). looked like a walking shampoo ad — to crown her ample bosom, generous hips, and narrow waist. He tried to expunge such impure thoughts as best he could. mother support money in return for visitation rights she turned me down flat. Said she was getting married and wanted confirmed that you lived here by Googling your name. You were written up in confirmed that you lived here by Googling your name. trips.com.” me to ever contact you. She said it would be too confusing for you, that you would soon have a DECEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 36 20) TIP 19) TROLL 18) TURBONADA 15) TURTLE 14) TUMBLER 11) TYPHOONS 10) TWINE 8) TRIPE 7) TRUNCHEONS 5) TRY 4) TROW 2) TYE 1) TRUSS ACROSS Crossword Solution thing ofabeattowindward. Christmas season,whilecreativepursuitswillbesome- from yourpartnerwillbeargumentsandharassment. you’ll meetlotsofchoppyseasinbusinessandallget and followingseaswillreturn. humor willhavedisappeared.ButbyChristmasfairwinds every tackduringthefirstthreeweeks.Evenyoursenseof third week,aniceholidaygiftfordeservingsailor! things willsmoothoutnicelybymonth’send. may passthroughsomesloppyseasinthefirsttwoweeks, sailed away.AskSantatobringitback! and yourgoodmoodwillhavecuttheanchorrope the wind.Don’tworry,youcanweatherit. ative life,withmisunderstandingsandpettyquarrelsin plaining fromcrew. ness. Stayoncourseandtrytoignoretheconstantcom- overtaking youwithitsmyriadpossibilitiesforfun. — ordoingmuchofanythingthismonth,lustwillbe sam andjetsam. aloof youwillbeabletocollectthegemsamongstflot- opinions floatingtowardyou.Ifyouremainemotionally might betimetocutthetiesthatbindandsailsoloforawhile. Taureans couldfindloveisontherocksbymonth’send.It creative endeavors. the firstweek,aspectsaregoodforproductiveprogressin DECEMBER 2007 Love andlustwillbehighonyourlistofprioritiesthis Batten downthehatchesuntilNewYear.Thismonth, It willseemthatcrewandfamilyopposeyouat You willreceivesomegoodbusinessnewsaroundthe Your lovelifewilltakethehelmandeventhoughyou Maintaining asenseofhumormayprovechallenge You willbesailingthroughsomeroughseasinyourcre- You willstartthemonthwithhighwindsinyourbusi- Ho, ho,ho!Whileyouwon’tfeellikeworkingontheboat There maybesomebitsoftruthinthemanycreative Be preparedforendlessroughseaswithyourmate.Some Although crewmembersmaybelessthansupportivein SAGITTARIUS (23Nov-21Dec) CANCER CAPRICORN (22Dec-20Jan) QAIS(21Jan-19Feb) AQUARIUS SCORPIO (24Oct-22Nov) TAURUS (21Apr-21May) GEMINI (22May-21Jun) PISCES (20Feb-20Mar) VIRGO (24Aug-23Sep) ARIES (21Mar-20Apr) LIBRA (24Sep-23Oct) 7) TRUNK 6) TUCK 5) TROPICAL 4) TROPHY 3) TOUR 2) TRICE 1) TWEEN DOWN 25) TUVALU 24) TRAP 23) TWIN 22) TRISAILS 21) TUB LEO (24Jul-23Aug) (22 Jun-23Jul) 24) TU 23) TUG 20) TOW 19) TURKS 17) TURNS 16) TWO 14) TUNGULA 13) TUBE 12) TRIPPING 11) THAR 10) TRIM 9) THOLE 8) TURRET THE OCEAN Fortunate Encounter Shall beherewithmeeternally. My dreamwillbealwaysthatyouandshe You andtheoceanaremytwobestfriends Drifting andfloatingonwaveswithoutend Heavenly samplestosplituptheland. God inHisglorygaveoceansandsand Sharing hersecretswiththosewhostaynear Whistling andsingingtothosewhocanhear List’ning toNature’smostglorioussongs. Wavelets orwhitecaps,weglideonalong Mains’ls andfores’ls,thewindshowsway Fishes theycallme,“Comeinandcomeplay!” Ocean, sweetocean,shemakesmefeelright. No hustleorbustle,notimefor“up-tight” Peaceful, sopeaceful,aslivingshouldbe Freedom, outsailing,justmeandthesea Nature’s beauty. in CaroniSwamp. roost thenight come to evening twilight, descend in scarlet ibis flocks of magenta mountains, against Rouge-red cloud Island Poets — NicholasLee — SandraPomeroy Treasured Isle Treasured anchored deepwithinmyheart. but this‘TreasuredIsle’willalwaysstay Now inthemorningI’llsailaway I’d walkalongtheveryshore. to knowthatthere’dcomeaday And asachildI’dbeenamazed we boldlysailedourbackyardfleet. a buriedtreasureinmarblebag Skull andbonesonhandmadeflags and thepirategameswe’dplay. of bedspreadsailsandwoodenswords Now Ithinkofdaysbefore in seacavesalongtherockycoast. old Blackbeardhidhisgoldaway A mysteriousislewherelegendssay has beenimmortalizedbyR.L.Stevenson. but aplacewhoseboldhistory A merespeckontheCaribbeanSea at night’sanchorinNormanHarbor. dance abovetheshipsthatlie Mast-head lightslikefireflies — JamesK.Richardson DECEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 37

BELA ALMEIDA — Solution on page 36 On-line! was a ______ship Nautical Alphabet Alphabet Nautical Monitor and southern declinations ‘Crossing Your Ts’ Your ‘Crossing 6) After part of ship under the transom or counter 7) Steamer luggage 8) The 9) Pin used to hold oars 10) Adjust, as sail 11) “____ she blows!” 12) Canting using a line, as yard or anchor 13) Half of a chain pump 14) Boat from Borneo 16) A cat has this many hulls 17) Tacks 19) _____head: an ornamental knot 20) Pull 23) Towing vessel 24) You, in Spanish ACROSS yards square-rigger’s lower 1) Bracket supporting rope or chain 2) Runner of thick boat 4) Type of salmon from, as whale blubber 5) Render oil 7) Clubs 8) Edible intestine 10) Fine line 11) Asian hurricanes prevent gaff from chafing 14) Copper nailed to mast to for example 15) Hawksbill or loggerhead, 18) Spanish squall boat 19) Fish off stern of moving 20) End 21) Rust bucket? 22) Loose-footed storm sails or screws 23) One of two equals, as jibs 24) Capture Hawaii and Australia 25) Island nation between DOWN 1) Between, as decks 2) To haul up 3) A cruise is one 4) Regatta prize sun’s greatest northern 5) Pertaining to area between 12 5 20 23 10 rossword C Caribbean Compass Compass Caribbean 21 6 Caribbean Compass 2007 © 24 13 14 13 [email protected] 7 ruising ruising 12 18 C 9 www.caribbeancompass.com 25

ompass

Subscribeto the 8 15 15 16 17 22

C parlumps marooned DECEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 38

ELAINE OLLIVIERRE 2007 © so excited,butintheendtheirdrowsyeyesclosedandtheyfellasleep.Thenext their partydecorations.Thereefchildrenlaughedwithdelight. coloured paperstreamersandtwinklingtinselthatthehumanchildrenhadusedas stars. MotherDamselfishsaidthatthereefdecorationsfaroutdidanyof colour totheledgesandpurpleseapearlsdottedaboutglistenedlikesparkling with frillsofwhitescrollalgae.Thebrightpinksthetwigalgaegavesplashes found somelovelyblueY-branchedalgaeandmadethemintoposiesheldtogether sargassum seaweedanddrapedthemallaroundtherockledgesofreef.They as that—orevenbetter! Damselfish wasdeterminedthatthereefwouldhaveaChristmaspartyjustasgood streaked withredandyellowraysjustlikeaSunsetTellinseashell.Yes,Mother everyone enjoyedthemselvesuntilthesunsankintosea,leavingbluesky ets tothechildren.Therewaslotsoflaughingandtalking,huggingsinging beard, hadleaptoutontothebeachandbegunhandingbrightlywrappedpack- pants trimmedwithwhite,aredcaponhisheadandlongflowingwhite small boathadmotoredintothebayandaveryfatmandressedinredjacket a picnicandplayedgamesonthebeach.Then,half-waythroughafternoon, a partyofhumangrownupsandchildrenhadcomeintothebaywheretheysetout Mother Damselfishrememberedthedaywhenshewasonlyasmallfishherselfand wanted to,celebratedthedayeachyearwithpartiesandexchangeofgifts. it hadsomethingtodowiththebirthofChristchildandthateveryonewho Damselfish triedherbesttopassonthelittleinformationshehad.Sheunderstood got goingtherewasnostoppingit. would helpdecoratetheentirearea.Onceidea ledges ofthereefandeveryone,evenchildren, relaxed. Foodanddrinkswouldbesetoutonthe play gamesonthesandwhilegrownups area atthebaseofreef.Thechildrencould was decidedtoholdthepartyonbigsandy without childrenorgrandchildrenwereinvited,it As somanychildrenandparentseventhose could. Andtherewasplentyofworktobedone. ward andofferingtheirhelpinanywaythey Christmas partyandvolunteerswerecomingfor- no timeatallthewholebaywastalkingabout the firstChristmaspartyforreefchildrenever!In decided togetalltheparentstogetherorganize Father Christmastobringmesomethingtoo!” Christmas isoneofthem.” beliefs thatwedon’thavehereonthereefand “Earth peoplehaveallsortsofcustomsand he bringmeanything?” they wantedFatherChristmastobringthem.Will “They wereallveryexcitedandaskedeachotherwhat heard themtalkingaboutChristmas,”Dimityreplied. did youhearthewordChristmas?” asked thatquestiononesunnyafternoononthereefinsandybay.“Wherever The reefmothershadahardtimegettingtheirchildrentobedthatnighttheywere The daybeforetheparty,reefchildrencollectedgarlandsofgreenandyellow Not everyoneknewaboutChristmas,especiallythechildren,soMother This gotMotherDamselfishthinkingandshe “But itsoundsfun!”Dimitypersisted,“AndIwant “Oh, isthatit?”MotherDamselfishsighed. “I wasswimmingbytheshorewheresomehumanchildrenwereplayingandI Mother DamselfishgotthesurpriseofherlifewhenlittledaughterDimity “Mummy, whatisChristmas?” tal shelves ogy isbeingusedto count thefishwhichlivethere.Astudy oflifeon being usedasanexample ofa gated tofindhowmany speciesusethecoralreefsashome. The GulfofMaineis creatures, largeandsmall,liveontheshore. ronment isbeingstudiedforbiodiversity, thatis,alookathowmanydifferent surveyed bydifferentgroupsofscientists andresearchers.The part ofthecensus.Theyaremarkedhere inboldprint. Information System gathered willbestoredinadatabasecalled the thousandsofspeciesfoundinmarine environment.Alltheinformation year undertakingtosurveytheworld’soceans andseastofind,counttrack carried outinthePacific region. DOLLY’S DEEPSECRETS The marineareasoftheworldhavebeen dividedintosectionswhicharebeing Do yourememberlearningaboutthe Census ofMarineLife?

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e continen- a . By LeeKessell envi- the termsgiven. www.coml/secretariat.org. 2007 foranupdateonalltheprojects.Findoutnextmonthhowtheygoton. plans canbemadeforthefuture. of howmankindhasbeenusingtheworld’soceanresourcesinpastsothat (tiny, microscopicorganisms)present. being investigatedtofindthenumberandvarietyof they areparticularlypronetotheeffectsofglobalwarming.Andseaitselfis that cansurviveinthetoughconditionssofarunderwater. ocean ridges mountains, volcanoesandridges. live there.Thebottomoftheoceanisnotflatbut,justlikeondrylandthereare they andtheabyssarealsobeinginvestigatedfornumberofspecieswhich plains Cutie Cove’sveryowntradition. hugged andkisseddeclaredthatfromnowon,ChristmasontheReefwastobe dren andeveryonewenthome—butnotbeforetheyhadallclappedcheered, water ahappyChristmasred,sobeforeitgotdark,theparentscollectedtheirchil- the gift-givingsunhadbeguntosinkdownintoseapaintingblueof beach andoldseedsdroppedfromtreesroundasping-pongballs.Attheendof boys weregivenbatsofwoodsmoothedbysandandseafoundtheedge into necklacesforthegirlsalongwithbraceletsmadeofverysmallseapearls.The There werestringsofprettyshells,whoseoccupantshadlongsinceleftthem,made reef managedtogatherandformintomouthwateringdelicacies. wrapped aroundyellowSwisscheesealgaeandwhateverelsetheinhabitantsof piled highwithsoft,sweet-tastingoatmealalgae,darkgreenleavesofseawatercress There weremoundsoffreshandjuicyseagrapes,lotscrunchylettuce,shells morning everyonewasupbrightandearlyallthefoodpreparationsbegan. Vent Seamount Ridge Near shore Deep slope Coastal shelf Abyssal plain The diagramshowsacross-sectionofthe oceanbottom.Matchthenumbersto PUZZLE For moreinformation,checkouttheCensuswebsitesatwww.coml.organd Many ofthescientistsinvolvedinCensusmetNewZealandearlyNovember OBIS willalsoincludeinformationonthehistoryoffishingtogiveussomeidea The AntarcticandArcticOceans( Outside thecontinentalshelf,terrainslopessharplydownto THE END was talkingabouttheChristmasparty at thebottomofsea.Theseslopesare In notimeatallthewholebay are otherareasstudiedintheCensusforpeculiarorganisms wait forMotherDamselfishtogiveoutthepresents. Christmas partyfeastandallthechildrenwerehun- and clappedwhentheysawhimcouldhardly At lasteverythingwasreadyforthereef’sfirst grier thantheyhadeverbeen!MotherDamselfish perfect underwaterSanta.Thechildrenshrieked beard madeoffine,whitenetalgaehewasthe Eel hadbeenchosenforthejobandwithhisfalse gifts forthechildren.Fat,jollyMisterGold-Ringed long-awaited arrivalofFatherChristmaswith party delicacies. again andsoeveryonefinishedupthelastof much playingthechildrenweresoonhungry bristle wormsscurriedacrossthesand.Withso swimming races,whiletheseasnails,shellsand divided intoageandsizegroupstheyhad it, theyorganizedraces.Thefishchildrenwere brought along.Whensomeoftheadultsfeltupto the mango-seedballthatoneofchildrenhad of themplayedhide-and-seekwhileotherstossed crawled aboutthesandybottomofbay.Some effects ofsomucheating,thechildrenswamand While theadultsnoddedoff,drowsingaway tucked intothefooduntiltheycouldeatnomore. declared thepartyopenandadultschildren Seamounts, ventsandseeps And itwasnonetoosoonfortimethe ice oceans — Answersonpage 22. ) arebeingspeciallystudiedas microbes continental margins and and the zooplankton abyssal mid- and DECEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 39 . We . She went Fredag Fredag . With a lot of help Fredag ordinary; we both were hard for gløgg in 1992. The party that ) who ran Palm Island Resort at that Fredag by Mariann Palmborg by Mariann

In 1980 my spouse, Peter, and I started to build a In 1980 my spouse, Peter, Of course we had to save After a year of cruising, it happened — what all After a year of cruising, it As long as I can remember I have gathered people on Now this party is a “must” for Scandinavians, a Lately the party has included a raffle: guests bring All Scandinavians are welcome to the gløgg party at For more information call “Why Knot” on VHF chan- Then came six hard years when we were known as replica of a Colin Archer rescue boat from 1910. We replica of a Colin Archer rescue people — social workers were just ordinary Norwegian — but we were not on Bequia Tradition Tradition Scandinavian cruisers probably have nightmares about — we went cruisers probably have nightmares after the coast guard tried on a reef at night and sank all we had, and we had no to “save” us. The boat was savings and no insurance. workers and very determined. We built the 50-foot workers and very determined. and called her boat in the middle of Oslo started a circumnavigation sold all our belongings and in 1984. Christmas Eve for an informal gløgg party. Gløgg is a spicy, hot wine drink we use to warm ourselves at Christmas-time in the cold north. I started to invite people aboard meeting point for all Scandinavian boats crossing the Atlantic that year and island-resident Scandinavians. Other nationalities want to join in, but there are rules: you have to have a strong connection to a Scandinavian country and/or speak the language. (I have some American friends with roots in Norway, who are practicing Norwegian really hard to qualify for participation!) prizes with a Scandinavian twist, like caviar, aquavit or Swedish meatballs. Children from the Sunshine School for Children with Special Needs sell the raffle tickets and we made over EC$1,000 last year — the money goes to the school. Mariann “Why Knot’s” place in Mount Pleasant, Bequia, on Christmas Eve 2007 from 1300 to 1500 hours. Bring red wine for the gløgg and a raffle prize if you have something typically Scandinavian. Taxis will be available at the Port Hole Restaurant in Port Elizabeth from 1250 hours; pay only one way at the time (EC$3 per person, half price for children). nel 08, phone (784) 457-3047 or 432-3232, or Skype whyknotbequia. from other yachties and the lovely people of Union Island, and the late John Caldwell (author of Desperate Voyage back to Norway to become a school ship, while Peter and I stayed on Bequia. grew over the years until the last time I had it aboard there were 150 people — at the same time! After moving ashore on Bequia, it grew even bigger. the couple who never gives up. We chose Bequia as a base and survived by doing charters, transport, what- ever. With insufficient maintenance funds, we had a series of mishaps: dismastings, engine disasters and so on and so on. In 1995 we sold time, we were able to raise her. DECEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 40 Peace Corps,andreturnsoftentoGrenada.Thisishisfirstbook. Bahamas, forsixyears.Heresearched the GovernmentHighSchoolinNassau, cated inEnglandandtaughthistoryat music andJunkanoo. crafts; language,cuisine,goombay and developmentofBahamianarts ing, farmingandlandtenure;theorigins States; thestylesofboatbuilding,fish- influences ofAfrica,BritainandUnited piracy andtheLoyalists;competing the aboriginalLucayans;legaciesof ters asthemostrecentfindingsabout brief butdefinitiveentriesonsuchmat- est publicationsintheseries. part oftheworld.Thesearetwolat- heritage ofthisfascinatinganddiverse for anyoneinterestedinthecultural they areaunique“one-stop”resource illustrated andinfull-colorthroughout, comprise theCaribbeanregion.Highly information aboutthecountriesthat invaluable andentertainingsourceof series ofreferencebooksthatprovidean 79252-0. £15.95. Paperback, 296pages,black-and-whiteandcolorphotosthroughout.ISBN978-0-333- 4050-0242-4. £15.95. Paperback, 424pages,black-and-whiteandcolorphotosthroughout.ISBN978-1- Both booksareavailableatbookstoresorfromwww.macmillan-caribbean.com. The author,MichaelCraton,wasedu- A -ZofBahamasHeritage Macmillan A-Z’sareacomprehensive A -ZofGrenadaHeritage A -ZofBahamasHeritage The HeritageoftheBahamas Leatherman Accessories Garmin GPS Icom VHF and Grenada,fromAtoZ and snorkels.Weevenhaveprescriptionlensesfor themasks. because wewantYOUtosucceed. fishing tournament.Wetakeprideinsharingourexpertise withyou the speedofyourboat,orgoforarodandreeltohelp youwinthenext and gettherightscrewswithitonetime. and spares. We offerawiderangeofhardwareaswellnecessaryaccessories Wander around.Youwillfindthingsyouhavebeenseekingforages. sockets, navigation,charts,guides,marinehardware, blocks,cleats, Hablamos Español Phone/Fax: 784458 [email protected] Diving orsnorkeling?Wehaveitall:suits,tanks,belts, masks,fins Want tocatchfish?Getasimplehandlinewithlure justrightfor Looking foratablehinge,hatchspring,orladder? Cometous Some peoplecallusthe“mostinterestingshopinCaribbean.” Electronics, marineelectronics,12&24volts,inverters, lights, SS fasteners,rope,Spectra, pumps,hoses,completediving, , byJohnAngusMartin.MacmillanCaribbean©2007. The ONLY DutyFreeChandlery inBequia provides , byMichaelCraton,MacmillanCaribbean©2007. snorkeling andfishinggear. Officer intheAfricaregionofUS He currentlyworksasaCountryDesk volunteer inSierraLeone,WestAfrica. he spentthreeyearsasaPeaceCorps University ofNewYorkatStonyBrook, After graduatingfromtheState family toBrooklyn,NewYork,in1978. Grenada, beforeemigratingwithhis born andraisedinSt.George’s, Fédon’s RebelliontoHurricaneIvan. Grand AnseBeach;andhistoryfrom the GrandEtangNationalParkand Dance; geographicalfeaturesincluding such asAnansistoriesandtheBigDrum Martinique, coveringculturalaspects ed tourofGrenada,CarriacouandPetite in theStream Bahamian socialhistorycalled duced theprize-winning,two-volume the ArchivistofTheBahamas,hepro- Collaborating withDr.GailSaunders, including many worksontheBritishWestIndies, Bahamas and wrotethefirstfull N u aln rnasWirsprechenDeutsch ous parlonsFrançais The author,JohnAngusMartin,was A -ZofGrenadaHeritage in 1962.Heistheauthorof A JamaicanPlantation . History ofThe gives aguid- Penn Service Penn Parts Penn Reels and repair Islanders . DECEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 41 ARBOUR 284 495-5685 H Fax: 284 495-5706 ACHT Y VHF Ch: 16 Full Service Marina Facility during hurricane season. Web: www.vgmarina.biz LEAVE YOUR BOAT ORDA G located within convenient walking distance. IN OUR CARE THIS SUMMER 284 495-5318 Tel: 284 495-5500 laundry facilities, and an office of the BVI Tourist Board all in IRGIN fax facilities, free wireless internet access, fuel, water and ice, offering insurance approved hurricane pits to secure your vessel Our facility located in the heart of beautiful Virgin Gorda comprises a pristine and relaxing environment. BVI Customs and immigration chandlery, restaurant, bakery, clothing store, dive shop, phone and Onsite amenities and services include a bank/ATM, a supermarket, V a 111-slip marina and a boatyard with 12 acres of dry storage space is actually a type of cut- sepia, , by Luc Guibert de Fontaine. Self- Guibert de Fontaine. , by Luc of French can refer to the original This collection of recipes by a French This collection recipes The Mediterranean-influenced chef and cruising sailor is designed to be chef and cruising boat’s galley. You won’t used in a typical fancy equipment, readily need a lot of are used (especially available ingredients for seafood) and, bar- if you like to forage each recipe requires no ring marination, hour of combined prepara- more than an time (a microwave is tion and cooking often employed). then in a are given first in French and if quirky, mainly comprehensible, example, English translation. For Vert” is “Mousse Tahitienne aux Citrons Mousse charmingly translated as “Lime tempura Like in Tahiti” and a shrimp of becomes the intriguing “Doughnut one or two Schrimps”. This cook found recipe for translations mystifying: the calls for “Pilot Whales Serafini”, which me wonder- four whole somethings, had enough to ing if I could find a pot big I did the simmer them in — until main ingre- research to find out that the dient, a squid are tlefish. I guess the stuffed cetaceans. supposed to look like little Franglish But usually, when the becomes incomprehensible or hilarious (“In a quivering olive oil frying pan, soupçon 16ft channel • 24 hour security Shower facilities • • Telephone hook-up • 120 concrete slip berths Fuel dock and bunkering WE OFFER: • • Free satellite TV at each slip • (single phase and three phase) Tel: 599-5442309 Fax: 599-5443378 Electricity: 220V/ 50amp; 110V/300amps • Pick-up and drop-off from major supermarkets • Join us this summer and continue to enjoy the hospitality. Wireless internet, banks and laundry within the complex P.O. Box 4540, Airport Road, Sint Maarten, N.A., Caribbean

•

We monitor VHF channels 16 & 79A (alpha – American system)

Over and over again our guests refer to our marina as their “Home”! Les Recettes à Luké: Une Casserole à la Mer Une Casserole à Luké: Les Recettes The 60 or more recipes are divided into sections for entrées, seafood, meat and The 60 or more recipes are divided into sections for that Luké’s coconut- The dessert cart also looks mouth-watering, and we suspect Available at Whisper Cove Marina, Grenada, tel (473) 444-5296. Visit our website: www.sbmarina.biz E-mail: [email protected] THAN A MARINA: IT’S HOME! IT’S MUCH MORE FRENCH ‘CRUISINE’ FRENCH published, paperback, 130 pages, black-and-white photos and illustrations. 15 Euro. illustrations. photos and black-and-white 130 pages, paperback, published, experience can quickly figure brown the burgots…”), any cook with a tablespoon of out what is meant, and those with a poultry, vegetables, desserts and miscellany. The French cruising culture’s predilec- poultry, vegetables, desserts and miscellany. The French recipes for reef and near- tion for hunting and gathering is shown in the numerous parrotfish and lobster. shore critters such as white sea urchins, octopus, whelks, will prefer to troll for fish (We ask those so inclined to “harvest” thoughtfully.) Many these look excellent. such as king mackerel and tuna, and the recipes for papaya crumble will become a classic. recipe for clarification. DECEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 42 left uncompletedinmymorethan50yearsofoff-shore never doitathirdtime.TheonlyyachtdeliveryIhave they areahighlypaiddeliveryskipper,andeven Panama asitissotoughnoonedoestwiceunless on personalorfirst-handinformation. information. Incontrast,therestofbookisbased on second-hand,andsometimeseventhird-hand, first timeinmyguide-writingcareer,Ihavehadtorely the mostdifficultwritingIhaveeverdone,asfor Guide totheAtlanticandCaribbeanBasins when theTradeshavefilledinreliably.) Christmas thereandcrosstheAtlanticinJanuary cruise theCapeVerdesforthreeorfourweeks,enjoy ful, undiscovered,uncrowdedcruisingarea.Youcan to theCaribbeanwhileinactualitytheyareawonder- they areregardedasaquickstoppingplaceenroute Verde islandstothecruisingyachtsmen.Presently first-hand information.(IhopeitwillopenuptheCape the informationwasbasedonpersonalexperienceor Salvage, CanaryandCapeVerdeislands.Almostall islands: Bermuda,theAzores,Madeira,and Caribbean, andwasacruisingguidetotheAtlantic Coast oftheUnitedStatesandPanamatoEastern crossing routes,butalsogettingtoandfromtheEast the publisherasitnotonlycoveredalltransatlantic Transatlantic CrossingGuide Caribbean Basins the rockshaven’tmoved. Venezuelan yachtsmen.Itisoutofprint,butagain, ed withmuchinformationsuppliedbyexperienced the resultofabouttenyearscruisingarea,amend- revised, expandedandre-printedin1990)wasalso times throughtheyears,lastrevision2001. the area.Thisguidewasrevisedandexpandedmany now backinprint,wasaresultoftenyearscruising Guide totheLesserAntilles very scarce. mation aboutotherareasinthewesternCaribbeanis Panama Guide Islands arewellcoveredbythehighlyrespected in theguidesisstillvalid.PanamaandSanBlas re-printed butrocksdon’tmovesomuchinformation originally printedabout15yearsago.Ithasnotbeen are wellcoveredbythelateJohnLetheridge’sguide, poorly ornotatallandcoveredbyanyguides. terra incognita impossible tolist.Westofthatline,althoughitisnot of thelineiscoveredbysomanyguidesthattheyare Isla deMona,offPuertoRico,toAruba,theareaeast Sailing DirectionsEastwardfromPanama Little hasbeenwrittenaboutsailingeastwardfrom The chapter“EastwardfromPanama”inthenew My forthcoming My I havebeenwritingguidessincel964.My Jamaica, theSanPedroBank,andMorantKeys If youdrawalinethroughtheCaribbeanSeafrom Guide toVenezuelaandtheABCIslands FILLING INTHE , therearevastareasthatcharted by NancyandTomZydler.Butinfor- Street’s GuidetotheAtlanticand is are-writeofmyl986 , publishedin1966and , whichwasmis-titledby has been Cruising (1980; The Colombian hydrographicoffice. datum, forgetit.Onlyusetheonesdonefrom the chartsweredeveloped:ifBritishAdmiraltyorUS MOST IMPORTANT—checkthedatumfromwhich You canalsobuyelectronicchartsofthearea,but— imagery) coverssomeoftheanchoragesquitewell. earth bysuperimpositionofsatelliteandaerial and gobacktotheboatinCartagena. show thereceipt,pickupcharts,findanothertaxi find anothertaxi,gobacktothehydrographicoffice, bill tothedesignatedbank,paybill,getareceipt, get abill,backintaxi,gototown,takethe out oftown),selectthechartswanted, a taxi,gotothehydrographicoffice(well these chartsistogoCartagena,getin Unfortunately, theonlywaytoobtain bors alongtheColombiancoast. of producingdetailedchartsthehar- graphic officehasdoneanexcellentjob at andanchorastheyfighttheirwayeast. harbors thatyachtsmenwouldliketostop men avoid,butnodetailedcoverageofthe major commercialharborsthatyachts- coast, anddetailedchartsofafewthe offices. Therearegeneralchartsofthe by theUSandBritishhydrographic most yachtswillwanttomakestops. options —allbasedonthepremisethat There are,however,manydifferent against windandcurrent,istough. heading eastwardsfromPanama, affection, “MadMajor”. No wonderwecalledhim,withgreat sailed directfromPanamatoSt.Thomas. in areef,setsmallworkingjiband Arthur Robb-designedCheoyLee.Hetied from Panamasingle-handedonhis Independent BoatYardfame)tookoff Ron Roberts(fatherofPattiStoken in theEasternCaribbean.ThelateMajor without stoppinguntiltheyhitanisland from Panama,andbeattowindward with it”,sticktheirheadsdown,takeoff complete thetrip. coming guidewewouldhavebeenableto the informationincludedinmyforth- Venezuela. Ibelievethatifwehad Wolf ketch.WeabortedinMaracaibo, Colombia, toGrenadaina40-footSea sailing wasonefromCartagena, I haveobtainedinformationfromcruiserswho Google Earth(earth.google.com,whichmapsthe I amtoldthattheColombianhydro- The coastofColombiaispoorlycharted But nomatterhowyoucutthecookie, A fewtoughsailorsjustsay“tohell by DonStreet BLANKS stopping placebetweenFiveBaysandCabodelaVela. user reports.Ifitisaviableharbour,wouldprovide water intheharbour,butthisisnotconfirmedbyany would appearfromGoogleEarththatthereissufficient dle. Theharbourisabouttwomileslong,butnarrow.It The entranceis1,500feetwidewitharockinthemid- Earth, SalinadeUmalaga,at11°53.281N,72°14.4W. pass.com “Colombia CoastUpdate”atwww.caribbeancom- the CoastofColombia Colombian coast[ anchored inalmostalltheanchorageson There isapossibleharbourIspottedviaGoogle ], butthereareafewgaps. Editor’s note:see by LouraeandRandyKenoffel: —Continued onnextpage —Continued Cruising Guidefor DECEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 43 pro- Marmaris Yachting World, Genoa and also a guide. Lisa OGISTICS L

Palma de Mallorca Cherbourg La Rochelle Toulon ACHT Y

Cruising World LASS C

The south coast of Hispaniola is not covered by of Hispaniola is not covered The south coast Phil Richards, who has sailed in the Caribbean Phil Richards, who has sailed Boat Show I dis- At the most recent Annapolis If cruising yachtsmen will help me by filling in Please send information to streetiolaire@hot- obtain any information on this island. Can any- on this island. Can obtain any information one help? US and is well charted by both any guides but centu- all done in the early 20th British charts, been updated in the ry. But the charts have not harbors and mari- last 30 or more years, so new article by Alan nas are not shown. An excellent of Hispaniola, in Clemmetsen on the south coast the November 2006 issue of vided a lot of useful information but illustrated vided a lot of useful information third-hand infor- the fact that all second- and and triple-checked. mation must be double- one harbour was Doing this I discovered that longitude (50 miles) listed as being one degree of west of where it actually was. spent a lot of time on since the early 1960s, has and in the western the south coast of Hispaniola to go over my Caribbean. He was kind enough area. material and charts of the Copeland have covered that Lisa and Andy on the south coast of spent a couple of months an article on the Hispaniola, and are writing area for has kindly offered to review that section of the chapter “Eastward from Panama”, correcting any errors and adding any information she feels is important. the blanks in my information as listed in this article it will not only allow me to do a really good job on this section of the guide but it will also make passages eastward in the Caribbean easier. mail.com. Thank you! Martinique ORLD HART & STONE Newport Heading east from Jamaica to the western end of western end Jamaica to the east from Heading P.S. Researching this section of the guide, I real- W Hispaniola, the trip can be broken up by stops at up by stops can be broken the trip Hispaniola, for- Island. The Navassa Cays and possibly Morant is cov- The latter book. covered by Letheridge’s mer is of the early years done in the two US charts ered by Google up well in also shows and 20th century the chart, it at Google Earth and Earth. Looking off the that there is an anchorage would appear Island is tip of the island. Navassa southwestern Why? The listed as a US possession. uninhabited but been able to be of interest. I have not reason should ized that the historians are wrong. Historians say that the Spanish treasure galleons left Panama and Cartagena in the middle of the hurricane season because the Spanish accountants wanted to have the treasure ships back in Spain in time for them to close their financial books by the end of the year. This was not the reason. Checking wind and wave- height charts, one realizes that no square-rigger (much less Spanish galleons, which were not noted for their weatherliness) could beat eastwards from Panama except during hurricane season when the sea goes down and the wind eases off and becomes variable. These summer conditions allowed the galleons to stand north and pick up the Yucatan Current, then the Gulf Stream passing north of Cuba and west of the Bahamas, then the south- westerly across the Atlantic. Freeport St. Thomas CALL FOR SPECIALS! CALL Port Everglades WWW.YACHT-TRANSPORT.COM

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Cartagena resident Lee Miles led a flotilla of boats to About Roncador and Serranilla I have absolutely no Heading from Panama northeast to Jamaica the trip Cruisers Rod and Jan Tuttle visited these islands Some of the above — San Andres, Albuquerque, Some of the August, 2000, issue: useful information that I have used in my new guide with appropriate credit given. Banco Nuevo, where he reported an anchorage but an unhappy flotilla. From there they went to Serrana and felt they were in heaven. I’m looking forward to receiv- ing details of both these anchorages from him. information. Can anyone help? can be broken up by stopping at Banco Nuevo and San Pedro Bank. Regarding San Pedro, the BA and US charts are the wrong scale and from old survey; use Letheridge’s guide if you can find a copy. years of the 19th century and have not been updated. Eyeball navigation in good light, not GPS, is required. and reported on their cruise in in latitude, but off in longitude, a common mistake in common mistake longitude, a but off in in latitude, time. very accurate the advent of before early charting to offices’ failure of hydrographic an example (This is by are marked All of these banks their charts. correct main- — periodically should be? must be — lights that even a position, crew took If the maintenance tained. could be GPS, the lights’ positions with a hand-held charted correctly.) Admiralty — are covered by British Providencia in the middle they were done charts, but remember RELIABLE FREQUENT SCHEDULES RELIABLE FREQUENT SCHEDULES RELIABLE FREQUENT SCHEDULES RELIABLE FREQUENT SCHEDULES RELIABLE FREQUENT SCHEDULES RELIABLE FREQUENT SCHEDULES

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Yacht at Rest Yacht A brief description of all the above is given in Another information gap is along the Panamanian- gap is along information Another You can routes east from Panama. There are other Also out of print is Hart & Stone’s seminal Guide to the Caribbean and the Bahamas (first published in 1976), which included this illustration of eastward routes from Panama Caribbean Almanac anchorages can be had, but not only do they warn that they are uncharted, they note that the lights are not in their charted positions. Usually the position is correct head north, stopping at Albuquerque Cays, San Andres, Providencia and then through the Yucatan Channel; or northeastwards to Jamaica with possible stops at Roncador, Serrana, Quita Sueño and Serranilla Banks. All these are marked by lights of dubious reliability — you can end up on the bank before you see the light. Obviously these cays should only be approached by experienced reef pilots in conditions of good light. —Continued page from previous the US, charted by Rosario, well border. Isla Colombian of is a playground It miles from Cartagena. is 20 information, Via about third-hand Colombians. wealthy area in this couple of anchorages there are a I gather from yachts to head eastward that would enable daytime sails, Rosario in a series of Panama to Isla information night. If anyone can supply anchoring every appreciated. it would be greatly on these anchorages, DECEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 44 ✽ Doyle Barefoot-theonlysailrepair loft ✽ leLgo,S.Vincent&theGrenadines Blue Lagoon,St. Surfshop -WatersportsCentreBoutique Facility forVisiting Yachtsmen Internet Café-Faxandweather service Internet Bareboat &CrewedCharters e:(8)4692 Fx (784) 456-9238 Fax: (784)456-9526 Tel: t Vincent’sBestFullService St. St. Vincent-professionalsail,bimini ✽ http://www.barefootyachts.com & dodgerrepairsatgreatprices Spare partsordering E-mail: [email protected] ✽ Restaurant, Bar,dinghydock ASA SailingSchool ✽ Raymarine Electronics ✽ Yacht Charters Barefoot PADI DiveShop & MarineCentre ✽ Apartment in Do youknowwhattodo?Haveadequateextin- about yourownvessel.Haveyouafirecontrolplan? failed tocloseitagain,supplyingoxygenthefire. engine roomhatchtoseewhattheproblemwasand extinguishers. Worse,somebodyhadopenedthe type ofboatandwe’dreactedtooquicklywithour were hamperedbyourlackofknowledgeaboutthat should havebeenabletoextinguishthatfirebutwe into theairasreported1,100gallonsoffuelwentup. with hugeflamesandplumesofblacksmokebillowing continued toburnandabouttwohourslateriterupted off tobecomespectatorsthistragicevent.Thevessel sailboat inordertouseadeckhoseweonceagainbacked and withthedifficultiesoftryingtomaintainpositionina them touseourdeckhose,butitwasalreadybeyondhope throw waterontotheboat.Wemovedbackincloseto tact withthecoastguard. was necessarytomovebeablemakeradiocon- out intothebayawayfromdanger.Inanycase,it fuel onboardanditwastimeforustomoveourboat tle morethatcouldbedone. itself out.Withallpersonsaccountedfortherewaslit- stage wastocloseitandhopethefirewouldburn to theengineroomwasopen.AllIcoulddoatthis into thesternofvesselandfoundlargehatch fired offtheremainingextinguisherbuttonoavail. that wewerelosingthebattletosavethislovelyboat.We up againand,withonlyoneextinguisherleft,werealised onds therewasnosmokecomingout.Butitthenflared to momentarilyknockthefiredownandforafewsec- against thescreenstominimiseblowback.Wemanaged and thirdextinguisherswiththenozzlepressedhard things totryandblockofftheventstriedsecond the sternofvessel.Wegatheredswimtowelsand which tendedtoblowthepowderbackinourfaces. there. Wequicklyfoundthattheventshadscreens and wetriedtodirectoneextinguisheractthrough smoke comingfromtheventsalongsideofboat side andintothewater.Therewasalotofveryacrid using apoweredcranetoliftlargedinghyoverthe ning. Theownerandanothermanwereontheforedeck where ageneratorandotherequipmentwerestillrun- that thefirewasinfishingboat’sengineroom jumped intothedinghytotryandassist.Itappeared therefore safelyawayfromthefire. had beenaboarditwereenjoyingaswimand vents andbackofthatboat.Mostthepeoplewho could seedensecloudsofsmokepouringfromtheside shout of“FIRE!”acrossthewaterandlookingout ular dayoutfortheowner.Suddenlyweheard Wednesdays atthisspotandwasobviouslyareg- were lookingforwardtoaquietafternoon. from thecrowds,andwehadenjoyedanicelunch This isoneofourfavouriteanchoragesinTrinidadaway by withfriendsMikeandBarbarafrom owner andhisfriendsrelaxed.Wewereanchorednear- near asmallpierinChacachacareTrinidadwhilethe 19th, 2007,alargesportsfishingvesselwasanchored Fighting This wasaverysadsightanditmakesyouthink Thinking aboutitafterwards,Iamsurethatwe Some localpirogueshadarrivedandweretryingto The ownerinformedmethathehad1,100gallonsof As Iconsideredwhattodonext,wasablesee The smokeatthistimewastooheavytotryandenter Mike andIcollectedmyfireextinguishers We hadseenthissportsfishingboatonprevious Shortly before2:00 and onYourOwnBoat PM on Wednesday,September FIRE S/V Phantasie. by GlynJohnson at Chacachacare… vents alongtheside…’ ‘There wasalotofveryacridsmokecomingfromthe Wandering Star. apart fromyou. you gettoliveandvirtuallyanythingcanbereplaced fire forreal. out afiredrillismorerelaxingthanactuallyfighting use one.Usedproperly,theyareveryeffective. you knowwhatwillhappenwhenreallyhaveto of-date extinguishers(weallhavethemIexpect)so an expertforadvice,butpractisewithyourold,out- help withthebreathing. rator youshouldwearwhensandingbottompaintcan keeping smokeoutofeyes,andthesortfacerespi- it difficulttoseeandbreathe.Divemaskscanhelp, will letintheoxygenagainanditcouldgowhoosh! guisher ready,asopeningupacompartmenttolook leave everythingtocooldownorhaveanotherextin- more difficulttoextinguish.Ifitappearsgoout,then fire behindpanellingorinanenclosedspaceismuch dealt with.Butafireinanengineroomorelectrical fire suchasaclothblowingontostovetopisreadily particular circumstancesontheday.Clearly,asimple in whichyouachievethoseitemswilldependonthe the othersteps. effective unlessyouhavealreadytakenoneormoreof right intotheseatoffire,theyareunlikelytobe ers areaone-shotoptionandso,unlessyoucanget all electricalcircuits,enginesandgenerators,etcetera. coming frommyboat,wouldbe: priorities Iwouldseektoachieveintheeventofsmoke ignition, removethefuel,oxygen. them followsastandardpattern:removethesourceof for anyoneofavarietyreasonsbutthewaytofight thing toburn,andoxygen.Firesonboardmaystart known asthefiretriangle:asourceofignition,some- guishers onboard? Glyn JohnsoniscruisingtheCaribbeanaboard Always keepinmindthatthismaybetheonlylife Finally, preventionisbetterthancureandworking What shouldyoucarryforfirefightingonboard?Ask Smoke isakillerinitsownright,aswellmaking In practice,howmuchyoucanachieveandtheorder 4) Usetheextinguishers.Butrememberextinguish- 3) Blockoffallventsandhatchesintotheareaoffire. 2) Turnoffcookinggasandfuellinesattheirsource. 1) Shutdownallpossiblesourcesofignition.Thatmeans What doesthismeaninpractice?Myfireplan,or Fire needsthreecomponentstoexist,commonly S/Y DECEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 45 AINT PUERTO LA CRUZ,VENEZUELA PUERTO ANTIFOULING P THE SPECIALIST FOR BOAT MAINTENANCE IN MARTINIQUE Zinc Anodes Plumbing Marine Paints Batteries Epoxy Antifouling SAILOR’S TIN FREE SINCE 1990 • REPLACEMENT PARTS & CHANDLERY MAINTENANCE PRODUCTS • PERSONALIZED ATTENTION BY OUR EXPERIENCED STAFF THE CRUISING ABC 3 ON AMER Le Marin Centre de Carenage 97290 Le Marin Centre de Carenage 97290 T XANADU MARINE: A TELEPHONE: (58) (281) 265-3844 FAX: (58) (281) 265-2448 E-mail: [email protected] Standby VHF Channel 72 E-mail: Standby [email protected] Tel: +596 (0) 596 74 74 80 Fax: +596 (0) 596 74 79 16 [email protected] Tel: +596 (0) 596 74 74 80 CORNER OF MIRANDA & GUARAGUAO, CORNER OF MIRANDA DISCOUNTS ON ARTIGIANA BATTELLIARTIGIANA DISCOUNTS ON AND CARIBE DINGHYS NEW * Delco * Underwater Metal Kit * Z-Spar * Cetol * Mercury Marlin Bottom Paint Ancor Whale * * * Ritchie * Breeze Tempo * Teleflex Seachoice * Marpac * * Jabsco * Groco * Perko Pumps * 3-M * Flags Wix * Shurflo* Johnson Racor * * Orion * Sunbrella * Starbrite * Camp Zincs * Marine Padlocks Boatlife Supplies * Marinco * Garmin * Uniden * Canvaswork Vinyl * Clear Weblon System * Shields West * * Sta-lok * 316 SS Rigging * Cordage Apelco * Harken Charts lolaire Aqua Signal * Imray * Waterproofing Accessories * Dinghy —Continued on next page

by Lorna Rudkin

THIS CRUISING LIFE CRUISING THIS

Ladies and Gentlemen of the jury, I put it to you that guests who come to stay on to you that guests who come of the jury, I put it Ladies and Gentlemen for a couple of they come at all, will stay are family members who, if Firstly, there arrive for a few days. They insist on helping, break Then there are the friends who from hell. This set arrives but refuses to leave. All Finally there are the guests living thing and our beliefs mean that we never do We hate the idea of killing any and have to question, quite seriously, why We do not hesitate to kill mosquitoes have a slight pang when doing so as all written infor- We do kill cockroaches but under scrutiny, and subsequent annihilation, is the The third boat guest to come or so we thought! It is responsible for malar- The mosquito needs no introduction, unmistakable sound No one we’ve ever spoken to can tolerate that high-pitched, speeds and distances and It’s as if the thing has a huge brain and is calculating elsewhere to read for a quar- There’s nothing for it but to spray, leave the cabin and go do you do if it rains? If it’s A mosquito net over the cabin hatch helps, but what it has stopped raining. To The next question is whether to open the hatch when we’d pop a tablet-thing which We’ve tried buying the electric mosquito killers into which wires, but they’re only We’ve tried the tennis racquet things, with their electric get lost in a cloud of nox- The slowly-burning coils are not okay for us either as we mosquito, which is One final thought on mosquitoes though: the dengue-carrying Cockroaches are a completely different kettle of fish. We, sadly, have to report The large roaches have two similarities to the mosquito in that they can fly and We constantly asked ourselves how these repulsive insects got onto the boat. We In fact the answer is simple — they fly aboard and, once in residence, are loath Our one experience of the German roach, which is brown and has long, constantly The big roach, with its calculated way of standing stock still, could have me dash- I would get up in the middle of the night, tiptoe into the galley in the dark, get We tried the boric acid cakes and we tried the Roach Hotels, including the eco- A QUESTION OF MURDER OF A QUESTION boats could, generally, be divided into three categories. be divided into three boats could, generally, disagreements, we may have a couple of drive us mad and weeks. They sometimes with their and at least we’re familiar in most families anyway, but this is normal from Familicide. various habits. So we refrain realize that, for instance, they can’t put their entire a few things because they don’t table. They, at least, do leave. Though sorely tempted, body weight on the cockpit we refrain from Amicide. to resort to murder. entreaties fail and we have — with three exceptions. they ever evolved at all. clean insects. It’s just such a pity that the very sight mation insists that they’re very no one, with the possible exception of an insect special- of them is so horrible that ist, could find them fascinating! Crazy Ant. poor, hard working and tiny of other diseases, all of which can be fatal. Huge sums ia, dengue fever and many this pest and we certainly do our bit by using the money are devoted to eradicating spray can. o’clock in the morning! The of a mosquito just about to land on their ear at three means hitting your own first reaction is to whack, blindly, at the thing. This often This method is never suc- ear which, at least, serves the purpose of waking you up. the process will be repeat- cessful and, if you just turn over and go back to sleep, for the thing. Well, boats ed. So, there’s nothing for it but to get up and try to look merely flies onto the near- are perfect camouflage for the rotten little mozzy which and there it reposes until est bit of wood, which most boats have in abundance, everything settles down. it dances, dangling its long legs, just out of sight. the mosquito will be dead. ter of an hour until the spray droplets have settled. At least a deluge and drop the hatch me, I leap out of bed at what I fancy is the first sign of longer. The excess net then to nearly shut — thus saving the life of the net a little so the water creeps onto the dangles inside the cabin and, as the rain gets heavier, the hatch which brings a net and down into the cabin. So, up I get again, re-open and pull the net off the fair amount of water onto my head, put my arms outside whole thing then drops into hatch. As the net is weighted with quite a bit of lead the fairly wet. Now I have to shut the cabin if I’m not careful and, in any case, I’m now with my head in order the hatch, so I drop it onto its catches then raise it slightly have to use my head because to lift it off the catches and drop it to its closed state. I and pull the catches back at I’m not strong enough to lift the hatch with my hands is a big butch boy at six foot the same time. Why am I doing this when my husband case he’s asleep and does- one? Because I sleep on the outside of the bunk! In any n’t get bitten by mosquitoes. in itself, means I run the put the net back in place involves going topside which, risk of being bitten by the outside mozzies. any which run on 12 volts. gives off some kind of fumes when warmed, but haven’t found any good if you can see the mosquito. than itches. ious smoke and end up with headaches which are worse is, apparently, quite recog- a day-flying insect and the same size as the night one but I am not sure that I nisable by its striped legs. Now, I don’t know about you, of a millimetre thick could spot the stripes on a leg that is about five hundredths and being trailed by a fast-moving insect! that we are familiar with both the German roach and the ordinary, huge, black, disgusting things which lurk in the inaccessible places in the boat. they emerge at night. tried greasing the stands, when ashore, and spraying the mooring lines when in a marina. We never bring cardboard aboard and we dunk suspect fruit and vegetables into seawater. to leave. searching feelers, is that they’re not too difficult to eradicate with spray but, gosh, they can move quickly. So, the remedy is to always have a spray can to hand because, if you spot one, and take your eyes off it for a picosecond, it will have vamoosed. ing for the valium. Again, it succumbs to spray but, with its last bit of life limps off into a dark corner and drops a packet of eggs which, given time, is going to produce lots and lots of roachlets. hold of the spray can then, suddenly, put the light on and — bingo! — if I was lucky there’d be one lurking on the cooker which would be so mesmerised it would give me a moment of attack time. logically friendly ones with the sticky mats; now I don’t know about you but I really didn’t want to see a live roach with all its six legs stuck to a piece of cardboard. DECEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 46 welcome! Credit Cards Wir sprechenDeutsch former LePetitJardin New locationat Daily FreshHerbs&Produce

AH PROVISIONING YACHT [email protected] Imported Cheeses&Pastas and otherGourmetFoods • gasstation • tel+fax+internet • water/ice/laundry • deepwaterstern-toberth gas station:(+)596 596661730 POINTE DU BOUT, MARTINIQUE RESTAURANT e-mail: [email protected] Open 7/7VHF:16/68 CUSTOMS CLEARANCE Tel: (+) 596660545 Fax (784)457-3134 Tel (784)458-3625 DOCK, BAR 14˚33N -61˚03W Fine Wines & VHF 68 in Fresh Croissantsdaily Special 8-grainbread Bequia only ofthecrimeInsecticide. food availableinthegalleyand,withintwoweekstheyweregone.Justlikethat! drop atatime,whichdidthetrick.Thistimewehadtowaitjusttwoweeksforresult. up withtheremedyinformofatinylittlebottleTerrosolution,usingjustone Crazy Ants.Then,joyofjoys,salvationarrivedthankstoafriendinTrinidad.Hecame glass andcouldseethattheywere,indeed, other creaturealtogether.IndesperationIpeeredatthethingsthroughamagnifying merely walkedonit. them butno,againtheyloveditand,afteraday,themixturebecamehardand for ants!)thelittleinsectshadpickeduptheirlarvaeandgone.Vanished. the corpseaway—Istillaskmyself,why? remain thereuntilthefluidhadbeenconsumedandthenotherantswouldcarry to elapseattheendofwhichtimewehadevenmoreants. lapped upthenectar.Iwasreplacingfluideverydayandwaitingforthreeweeks Well, theantslovedsolution.Thistimetheydidcongregateinlargegroupsand the plasticandwaited.Theboxsaidthatwithinthreeweeksantswouldbegone. faces oftheboat,wheretherewasanobviousant-track,poppedsolutiononto whole antfamilywoulddie. ants wouldloveitbecausewassweet,theygobacktotheirnestandthe lem. We’dboughtaspray,whichwewereassured,bythelabel,couldn’tfail.Itdid. any ofitspractises,on they wouldhavebeeneradicated,orjustjumpedship.Nosuchluck! about and,atothertimes,we’dseenone—whichtimebecomehopefulthat time whenthey’reabouttogooffonaforay? mean, therefore,thattheyalllineupinthenestandhaveacontrolleddeparture we wouldhardlyeverseeahoardallcollectedinoneplaceatonce.Doesthis crazy antsastheyallrunindirections. ent columnsallwendingtheirwaytowho-knows-where.It’sdifficulttellwith rapidly becamemanyants.Attheheightofproblemwewouldseethreediffer- on theboat.Wepresumedthatantshaddroppedfromtrees. in thewater,wenoticedjustoddantdoingitscrazylittlejourneyhereandthere an infestationofthesefascinatingcreaturestoo. friend whohasacopy.Yourfutureasanentomologistcouldjustbebeginning!) Amazon atthemoment!NotonlydoweknowthatitexistsbuthaveanAmerican Complete BookoftheRoach any innards?Dothelivingeatdead? a while.Wereturnedtobug-freezonewithonlythecarcassescontendwith. want toliveabitlonger,sowehadwaituntilweregoingvacatetheboatfor but notsufficientlytowanttoleratethemon Besides thedarnthingsmakesqueakingnoises. kind, eventoarepulsivecreature,haveitdieslowlyfrombeingglueddown. frompreviouspage —Continued So, LadiesandGentlemenofthejury,myclientappealstoyoufindherguilty Again, theantsloveddrops,wentbacktonestbreakgoodnewsof After allthesefruitlesseffortsIbegantowonderifwewerebeinginvadedbysome Next Itriedboricacidpowdermixedwithabitofjam.ThistimewassureI’dgot We foundoneantnestand,inthetimeittookmetofindspray(theright Interestingly, formeatleast,theoddonewoulddrowninsolution.It I cutuplittlebitsofplasticmargarineboxwhichthenstucktothevarioussur- We triedasolutionwhichhadtobeputonlittlemat.wereinformedthatthe We’d beenlookingatvariousexterminationmethodsfromtheon-setofprob- Although weadmiretheworkethicofant,don’twantitcarryingonwith It wasdifficulttopredictthehabitsofantsas,sometimes,they’dbeoutand The onethingIdidnotice,though,isthattheywouldformaroughcolumnand These fewlittleants,whichmeasurednomorethatthreemillimetresinlength, Our ketch, And, finally,there’sthebusylittleCrazyAnt.I’mnotproudtosaythatwe’vehad (Should youwishtoreadfurtheroncockroachesthereisacoffee-tablebookcalled My onlyquestionis—howitthatifwefoundadeadroachaboardneverhad The answerforthisyachtynightmareisBomb.Noteasyifyouliveaboardand We actuallystartedtofeelsorryforroachesafterreadingKafka’s The contraptionislaudedforcontainingnopoisonoussubstancesbutitcan’tbe “We hatetheideaofkillinganylivingthingandourbeliefsmean Tixi Lixi that weneverdo—withthreeexceptions” , hadbeenhauledandstandingundertreesand,ongoingback Tix . by MarkEverardwhichis,unaccountably,unavailablefrom Paratrechina longicornis Tixi Lixi ! or, moresimply, Metamorphosis The , DECEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 47 , PM - 6 AM PORT OF ENTRY PORT OF HAPPY HOUR 5-6 HAPPY HOUR TOURS ARRANGED MOORING FACILITIES MOORING BAR AND RESTAURANT WATER, ICE, SHOWERS WATER, CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED CREDIT CARDS CARIBEE BATIK - BOUTIQUE CARIBEE BATIK ... , Lunch is served 11:00 There is nothing general about Basil’s Call 784-488-8407 AM Basil’s Bar in Mustique was named one of the s Mustique ’ Mustique and Choice Meats Sunday: 9am to 12pm Imagine, decorating your home with Antiques from Bali Call 784-457-2713 Fabrics as bright as the sea and as light as air... perfect for as bright as the sea and as light as air... Fabrics VHF Ch 16 & 68 VHF Ch 16 Basil’s Bar (range limited by the hills) (range limited in the Grenadines. West Indies. and efficiently arranged. In St Vincent - near the port of Kingstown is an 18th century cob- In St Vincent WE SHIP AROUND THE WORLD! ANCHORAGE WALLILABOU BAY HOTEL WALLILABOU WALLILABOU the island. www.basilsbar.com [email protected] www.basilsbar.com Visit Basil’s in Mustique or St. Vincent Basil’s in Mustique Visit E-mail: [email protected] Tel: (784) 488-8479 Fax: (784) 456-5230 Tel: (784) 488-8479 Fax: (784) Monday-Saturday: 8am toMonday-Saturday: 12pm & 3pm to 6pm Tel: (784) 458-7270 Fax: (784) 457-9917 Tel: (784) 458-7270 Fine Wine, Cheeses, Fresh Fruits, Vegetables Fine Wine, Cheeses, Corea P.O. Box 851, St. Vincent & the Grenadines, P.O. Box 851, THE FOOD STORE THE FOOD STORE Your #1 Choice for Provisioning Dinner at 7:30 until late. Come to Basil’s for Cocktails anytime and plan to attend the Dinner at 7:30 until late. Come to Basil’s for Cocktails anytime BBQ. Call 784-488-8350 or VHF 68. night Jump up and Wednesday BOUTIQUE BASIL’S women, men and children, For island evening and playful day wear. Elegant island joy. home. Basil’s Boutique also offers silver and gemstone jewelry. to take plus lots of T-shirts STORE: GENERAL GREAT BASIL’S wines, cheeses from Europe, with fine French Great General Store - stocked 784-488-8407 Call foods in Paradise. sauces and gourmet jams. Imported cigars. Fine FOREVER: ACROSS has and India - contemporary pieces and fabulous lighting. Across Forever a magnificent collection of furniture and home accessories from Asia. Shipping is easily Visitors to St Vincent are invited to: to St Vincent Visitors BAR: BASIL’S Air conditioned, and Bar. blestone building where you may find Basil’s Restaurant you will enjoy cocktails most delightful, the staff most welcoming and the meals, some of the best on Visitors to Mustique are invited to: to Mustique are Visitors BAR AND RESTAURANT: BASIL’S and today lives up to that tradi- Best Bars in 1987 by Newsweek magazine Ten World’s Bar in Mustique is all that and more renovated the new face of Basil’s tion. Recently lunches and breakfasts. Terrific offering the freshest seafood, steaks and pastas for dinner. catch up on the web. Now equipped with WIFI you can enjoy sunset cocktails and January 23 - February Basil’s Bar is home and originator of the Mustique Blues Festival, 6, 2008. Breakfast service begins at 8:00 e-mail: [email protected] • Bar open daily until… Sunday 6pm - 2am Kitchen open Monday to Saturday 10am - 10pm BEQUIA, Port Elizabeth, Admiralty Bay SERVING AT SEA BY SHIRLEY HALL SHIRLEY SEA BY AT SERVING Bequia - Restaurant - Great Cocktails & Fun

Menu: Burgers, Flying Fish, Philly Steak Sandwiches,Fajitas, Salads, Tel: (784) 457 3443

Full Cable TV • Air Conditioning • Sportsbar • Pool Table Chicken Wings, Conch Fritters, etc. Dinner Menu will be available from Dec 07 Sliced Baked Sweet Potato piece of foil or baking sheet Slice peeled sweet potatoes 1/2 inch thick. Place on a Fried Sweet Potato Cakes 3 nice-sized sweet potatoes 2 eggs of potatoes) 1/2 Cup flour (more or less, depending on moisture content 2 Tablespoons cooking oil Salt and pepper to taste Season to taste. Form Peel and grate raw sweet potatoes. Mix in eggs and flour. Serves four. Sweet Potato Soup 4 or 5 large sweet potatoes 4 cups of water 1 large onion Additional 3 cups of water Salt and seasoning to taste one-inch pieces. In a large Peel sweet potatoes and onions and chop both into Serves six. Spicy Sweet Potatoes 3 large sweet potatoes 2 Tablespoons butter or margarine 1/2 cup chopped or sliced almonds (other nuts — even coconut — can be substituted) A pinch each of salt, pepper, cloves and cinnamon (or to taste) Sufficient flour to coat balls 2 Cups vegetable oil for frying Peel and mash boiled sweet potatoes, then add butter, nuts and spices. Blend Makes a great side dish or a unique appetizer. Columbus brought back to Spain many new foods he discovered during his first Columbus brought back to sweet potato supplies two The sweet potato is very nutritious. A half-cup of cooked

“Sweet potatoes”, with their soft, brilliant orange flesh, are an integral part of every orange flesh, are an integral with their soft, brilliant “Sweet potatoes”, season to that requires a long growing a Caribbean staple vegetable Sweet potato is Sweet, Sweet Potatoes Sweet Sweet, and brush both sides with vegetable oil. Bake at 400°F for half an hour or until and brush both sides with vegetable oil. Bake at 400°F cooked through. place cakes in oil. Cover and into cakes about an inch thick. Heat oil in skillet and and brown. fry till cooked through and the cake breaks easily. Uncover is soft. Put vegetables and stockpot, put water, potatoes and onion. Boil until potato puréed mixture to stock- liquid into a food processor or blender and purée. Return add seasonings. pot and add additional three cups of water. Heat and until sweet potatoes can be rolled into small balls. Carefully roll the balls in flour. Deep fry until golden brown and serve. voyage in 1492. Sweet potatoes were among Columbus’s treasures. The Spanish voyage in 1492. Sweet potatoes were among Columbus’s Soon Spain exported immediately loved the sweet potatoes and began cultivation. a taste for the root when the sweet root to their rival, England. France acquired Martinique, craved the sweet Napoleon’s wife, Empress Josephine, who was born in to Africa and Asia. potato. The Portuguese seafarers carried the sweet potato C, calcium, beta-carotene, grams of protein, four grams of fiber, vitamins A and raw and added to sal- manganese and folic acid. Sweet potatoes may be shredded even be juiced! ads or used as a topping for soups. Sweet potatoes can prime food source, especially if the rice crop fails. China grows most of the world’s crop. if the rice crop fails. China grows most of the world’s crop. prime food source, especially US Thanksgiving. It wasn’t until we cruised the Caribbean I discovered we had actu- the Caribbean I discovered It wasn’t until we cruised US Thanksgiving. sweet pale- to yellow-fleshed, red-skinned a variety of yam. The ally been eating recipes that its and lends itself to more island markets is even sweeter potato in the impostor. mis-named continental yams are often confused with yams, however roots. Sweet potatoes are produce mature in Africa. native to Peru, yams originated While the sweet potato is very different. sugar, they do not taste as sweet as sweet potatoes, and Although yams contain more pounds. Before Europeans landed in the Western can grow as heavy as 100 was already well traveled. This root had already passed Hemisphere the sweet potato Mexico, and was carried by boat to far-away Pacific islands through South America and is a In many countries of the Pacific, the sweet potato and farther on to New Zealand. DECEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 48 Flyingfish VenturesLtd Marine Survey throughout theCaribbean throughout Marine Survey JONAS BROWNE &HUBBARD(G’da.)Ltd. Hubbard’s The FoodFairhasitalland alotmore. or afineselectionofliquorandwine, or fruits,toiletries,householdgoods, products, meat,freshvegetables Whether it’scannedgoods,dairy conveniently locatedsupermarkets. best pricesinGrenadaatourtwo on thewidestselectionand Stock Up PURCHASE –INSURANCE-DAMAGE Accreditation - American Boatand Yacht Council ★ PORTHOLE RESTAURANT &BAR Marine Surveyors,Grenada A friendlyatmospherewhereyoucansitandmeetpeople. [email protected] Come andfindusamongstthetrees! Noelina &LennoxTaylorwelcomeyou! & ShorelineMini-Market Tel: Grenada (+1473)4074388 Grenada Tel: PLEASE RESERVE! Society of Accredited MarineSurveyors Y OceanYachtmaster(Commercial) RYA Monday toSaturday Candelight Dinners Accredited Marine Surveyor Accredited Bob Goodchild Admiralty Bay,Bequia Tel: nLwrBy Bequia in Lower Bay, ( 784 ) We servebreakfast, lunch anddinner 458-3758 Phone (784)458-3458 Tel: (473)444-4573 until 7:00pm Friday &Saturday 9 amto5:30pm Monday -Thursday Grand Anse: Tel: (473)440-2588 1:00 pm Saturday until Friday until8:45pm 8 amto5:30pm Monday -Thursday The Carenage: VHF CH68 steamed greenvegetables. kitchen foilputtightlyoverthetopwilldotrick. minutes toallowthecasserolebrown. for 11/2to2hours.Takeoffthelidlast15 over ofthechicken. Season totastewithsaltandpepper,heatpour “cream ofwhichever”soup,waterandmushrooms. has alid.Arrangethechickenpiecesontopofrice. the mushrooms. Parmesan cheese. till thericeiscooked.Servesprinkledwithsomeextra Cover andcookonalowheatforaboutfiveminutes to agentleboilandaddtherice,chickentomato. er thesoup,milk,cheeseandItalianseasoning.Bring it isjustbrowned. in afryingpan/skillet.Addthechickenandcookuntil pened? Herearesomeideas. over, purchasedforthatrainydayneverhap- you probablyhavestoredaboard. For Reservations: For Reservations: seasonal specialtiesandfreshbaked goods. MAC’S PIZZERIA 1 ten-ouncecancondensedcreamoftomatosoup 2 mediumonions,peeledandsliced 500 grams(1pound)minced(ground)beef 2 Tablespoonsoliveoil curly sort 3 Cupspastasuchaselbowmacaroni,penneorthe Tomato BeefPasta This shouldserveaboutsixpeopleandislovelywith If youdon’thavealidforyourcasseroledish, Sprinkle thepaprikaovertop.Coverandbake In asaucepan,mixtogethertheonionsoupmix, Put thericeintoafairlylarge,greasedcasseroledishthat Pre-heat ovento180°C(350°F).Drainandrinse Salt andpeppertotaste 1 teaspoonpaprika you likemushrooms) 1 canofmushrooms(sizedependingonhowmuch 1 soupcanofwater you prefer”(chickenisbest) 1 ten-ouncecan“creamofwhicheverflavoursoup 1 packetofdryonionsoupmix yes, they 1 kilo(2pounds)chickenpiecesofyourchoice(and 7 ounces(1Cup)uncookedrice Easy ChickenCasserole This shouldservefourpeople—dependingonappetites! In amedium-sizedsaucepanwithlid,mixtogeth- If usingthetomato,chopitupandputtooneside. Cut chickenintosmallbite-sizedpieces.Heattheoil Salt andpeppertotaste. 1 tomato(optional) 14 ounces(2cups)uncookedMinuteRice 1/2 teaspoonItalianseasoning fresh isnicer) can usethestuffthatcomesreadygrated,but 2 ounces(1/2Cup)gratedParmesancheese(you 13 fluidounces(12/3Cup)milk etcetera aslongitiscondensed“creamof”) soup (useanyothersort,suchascelery,mushroom, 1 ten-ouncecanofcondensedcreamchicken breasts orthighs 500 grams(1pound)bonelessandskinlesschicken 1 Tablespoonoliveoil Chicken Risotto What todowithallthosetinsofsoupyouhaveleft Here aremoreideasforcreativemealsusingitems Situated in Admiralty Bay, Bequiabetween In additiontoourfamouspizzawe offer Open dailyfrom 11:00am to10:00pm. the Frangipaniand PlantationHouse. should MORE STOREDABOARD VHF Ch68orTel: (784)4583474 be skinless!) PROSPERO’S PANTRYBYFENELLA Cheesy MeatBalls if youlikeithotandspicy. about 15minutes.Addsomechiliflakesorhotsauce sugar andredwine.Letthesaucesimmergentlyfor the garlic,stirwell.AddItalianseasoning,salt, bitter ifallowedtoburn) cook thegarlic,butdonotletitburn.(Garlicbecomes sauce fordipping. tomato sauce,sweetandsoursauceorbarbecue and servearoundabowlofhomemade(orbought) served warmorcold.Putacocktailstickineachone about 15to20minutes. stick bakingtrayandpopinthepre-heatedovenfor about 1inchindiameter.Placetheballsontoanon- touch, usingyourhandsformthemixtureintoballs mix well.Addthebiscuitandwellagain. Take themeatoffstove,addcheesesoupand the sausagemeatuntilbrownedandcookedthrough. the skins. sausages takethemeatoutofskinsanddiscard carrots, broccoliorcauliflower. people. Itcanbestretchedfurtherwithsomesteamed top nexttime,tomakeitalittlebitdifferent.) for 40to50minutes.(Popsomegratedcheeseoverthe minutes. Addthecookedpastaandmixwell. diced tomatoes.Cook,stirringoften,foraboutfive cooked beeftotheonionalongwithsoupand Tablespoon ofoilfrytheoniontilltender.Add set itasideinacolandertodrain.Usingtheother Tablespoon oftheoil,breakingitupascooks,then drain. Pre-heatovento180°C(350°F). This sauceisgoodandeasyifyouwanttoservethe Add thechoppedtomatoesandtomatopasteto In amedium-sizedsaucepanheattheoliveoiland 2 fluidounces(1/4cup)redwine you prefer) to recipesasittakesawaytheacidity,butomitif 1 teaspoonsugar(Iliketoaddalittletoma Ground freshpeppertotaste 1/2 teaspoonsalt lucky enoughtohavethem) parsley orbasil(oryoucanusefreshherbsifare 2 teaspoonsItalianseasoningor1teaspoondried 4 clovesofgarlic,crushed 1 Tablespoonoliveoil(extravirginisbest) 1 six-ouncecantomatopaste the can) chop themupwithapairofscissorswhilestillin their juice(Ifyouhavetinnedwholetomatoesjust 1 twenty-eight-ouncecanchoppedtomatoesand Offshore Marinara You shouldhaveabout40orsoballs.Thesearenice Now forthemessybit!Whenitiscoolenoughto In alargefryingpan/skillet,withlittlecookingoil,fry Pre-heat ovento230°C(450°F).Ifyouareusingthe 3 CupsBisquickorsimilarbiscuitmix 1 cancondensedcheddarcheesesoup Cooking oil 500 grams(1pound)tastysausagesorsausagemeat Cheesy MeatBalls This makesacompletemealinitselfforaboutsix Pour intoa6pint(3quart)casseroledishandbake In amedium-sizedsaucepan,brownthemeatinone Cook pastaaccordingtopacketdirectionsand Garlic granulestotaste 1 twenty-eight-ouncecandicedtomatoes(donotdrain) New Location at GingerbreadCafé over pasta. Tel: (784)4583041 BEQUIA DECEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 49 ! business insurance Compass it is too late. it is too Marine Fax DM Street or unsatisfactorily settled, Then, if the claim is denied Insurance John Alden designed REMEMBER www.street-iolaire.com insurance is until you have a claim. have you is until insurance The insurance business has changed. business has insurance The insurance, is no good cheap but there There is good insurance,There is cheap there Rather, say, can only the honest broker Fiberglass classic, long keel Fiberglass classic, No longer can brokers talk of low rates. talk of low No longer can brokers Lying St. Vincent, US 99,000 Lying St. Vincent, insurance.You never know how good your how know never insurance.You “I’ll do my best to minimize your increase!” your minimize best to “I’ll do my BACCHANAL TOO BACCHANAL 50 Lee Offshore Cheoy For Sale For settlement record cannot be beat. ☛ Iolaire Enterprises (353) 28 - 33927 or e-mail: [email protected] I have been in the 40 years, 36 with Lloyds, and my claims to tell our advertisers you saw their ad in LOA: 50’ 6” / LWL: 34’ 2” / Beam: 13’ 8” / Draft: 6’ 5” LWL: 34’ 2” / Beam: 13’ 8” / LOA: 50’ 6” / Tel (784) 458-4283 [email protected] about freshwater- —Continued on next page Compass , , Compass Compass First off, I can only assume the wheelchair-bound So what about leptospirosis? The figures are hard to The correct source for Caribbean information is I have no choice but to refute the offensive, erro- offensive, to refute the no choice but I have on our of having no harbours of refuge He accuses me of our having no light He picks on the picayune detail his cheap shot at the I was also offended by He insultingly belittles my sailing skills, suggesting, Tina Dreffin made some good points in her article in borne diseases such as leptospirosis. One problem with this article, though, and those of Dr. Marybeth Ellison from 2005, is that a description of a problem gives you little indication of its probability — necessary information if you want to assess risk. It is like being told gruesome blow-by-blow stories of pirate attacks without knowing how often they actually happen. friend Tina met must have been in St. Lucia in the 1970s or before, because schistosomiasis was eradicat- ed in a big program conducted during that decade. I talked to Dr. Michael Camps who was a community pediatrician in St. Lucia for the last 20 years and he said he never saw or heard of a case in this time. He also pointed out that to catch schistosomiasis you have to be in a pool of still water (it could be at the side of a fast-running river), but that you would not catch it in a fast-running stream. You also need some kind of damage to the skin (cut, scratch or abrasion) for it to enter. find. Leptospirosis is a world-wide problem and the United States gets about a hundred cases a year (most with a positive outcome). Most of us jump on a bus or drive a car and think nothing of it, so let us compare this with car accident statistics for the same USA. There were 6,420,000 auto accidents in the United States in 2005 with 42,636 people killed. About 115 people die every day in vehicle crashes in the United States — one death every 13 minutes. Okay, I know, more people drive than bathe in rivers, but it gives you an idea. www.carec.org, but their site and figures often seem horribly out of date. But in the Caribbean the leptospirosis rate is much higher than in the USA. This is probably less a factor of how abundant the bacteria are and more a factor of how many people in the Caribbean go barefoot and wade in mud. The last figures I could find were for 2001 up to week 39. At that time there had been 224 cases of leptospirosis reported. This compared with a flu case load of 46,288. Dear Dear sopho- biased, and supercilious, conceived, neously your in his rant in Mike Cobbe of moric judgments night hazardous about our issue’s Forum October St. Christiansted, emergency into a medical entry for issue. in your September Croix, that appeared I indicated to Cuba. In the article, passage from Antigua for Montserrat and had pilots and chartlets we considered upwind of these were rejected as they were and Nevis, but we decided as Puerto Rico was too far, our location, and of alternatives We are always cognizant on Christiansted. our USVI pilot refuge on our passages. Yes, or harbours of of going there, but we had no intention was 20 years old, However, in our original passage planning. or near there, change and we had a cur- rocks, capes and islands do not which covers all the rent computer navigation system other locations as well, and Caribbean islands, and many we had to deal with, as we had a medical emergency to head for. We could Christiansted was the best harbour navigation system divert with a functioning computerized from Antigua to Cuba, to any port or harbour of refuge erroneously accused by including Jamaica, not, as Cobbe, only to St. Croix. but conveniently forgot that for our magnetic compass, practice for night pas- I mentioned that as a standard strapped to our foreheads sages we wear headlamps us to see all our cockpit with red LED lights, allowing compass, as well as per- instrumentation, including the and to consult the pilot mitting us to make log entries harming our night vision. books in the cockpit without was privileged to serve. He Canadian Navy in which I owes an apology! fallaciously, that I am a danger to others and should instead take up something else like knitting. I guess I have just been lucky these past ten years of full-time liveaboard cruising not to have endangered anybody. To the contrary, we, my wife and I, have participated in several rescues over the years, giving aid to sailors in distress, and towing boats to safety. I guess I am just lucky in that of the 38,350 nautical miles we (just my wife and I in our 29-year-old Ontario 32-foot sloop) have sailed — and the passages through all the Great Lakes, the Mississippi and Tennessee-Tombigbee waterways, two Atlantic crossings, a circumnavigation of the United Kingdom, transit of the North Sea, circumnavigation of the entire Mediterranean, including circumnavigation of the Adriatic and Aegean Seas, as well as a circumnavigation of the Black Sea, and three transits north and south of the Windward and Leeward Islands of the Caribbean down to Tobago, Trinidad and Venezuela, including the Orinoco Delta — we have not put any other lives at risk. I guess I am just lucky, eh? Aubrey Millard S/V Veleda IV Dear the November issue of Caribbean Kelly’s Eye nearly 40,000 miles, including two

, Readers’ Forum Readers’ beggar belief. I, in turn, am amazed at the beggar belief. I, in turn, am Veleda IV Compass In your September issue Mike Cobbe of In your September issue Mike When you printed the letter to which I am reacting As for Mr. Cobbe, an award for dentopedology might Mr. Cobbe’s belief was beggared first of all by an Mr. Cobbe’s belief was beggared In the event, the exercise was successful in spite of On reading Millard’s article my first thought was On the basis of these facts Mr. Cobbe reached for his Therefore he thinks it logical that, for the benefit of What effrontery! Who does this mindless scribe Unlike Mr. Cobbe, I have given this matter some Dear you did follow with a note reminding readers that Aubrey Millard’s night entry into Christiansted was in response to a medical emergency. I am confident that many other experienced yachtsmen will share my view that it was an outstanding feat of seamanship. If there were Caribbean awards for such things, then Aubrey and Judy would be at the top of the list for 2007. I have no doubt that their injured friend would support my view. be more appropriate. Yours sincerely, Christopher Price S/Y Hummingbird told us that some of the things he reads in told us that some of the things Atlantic crossings. It is my guess that Aubrey has spent more time going astern than Mr. Cobbe has spent at sea. article which you published in August. This was by article which you published how he and his wife Aubrey Millard and described Judy set out, with a friend, to sail from Antigua to Cuba. Mr. Millard told how an accident befell their friend after they passed to the south of Nevis and a decision was made to divert to Christiansted in St. Croix. Approaching the harbour in 25-knot easterly winds, Millard made the decision to proceed with a night entry in spite of the fact that his 20-year-old pilot book said “it is imperative that the entrance… be made in daylight”. Clearly Millard felt that their computerized charting system, linked into their GPS, would give him sufficient information to enable a safe entry to be made and in his article he made it clear that his wife, Judy, a highly experienced and capable navigator, would run the plot while he had the con. the fact that the compass light proved to be inopera- tive. Upon arrival Millard likened the experience to the “blind pilotage” exercises that he did for his watch- keeping certificate in the Canadian Navy when all bridge windows were covered and he had to navigate by instruments only. His article included a reproduction of the chart plot, which showed clearly how the passage into Christiansted was made. that he had proved yet again that the views expressed in pilot books do not always have to be treated as if carved on tablets of stone. The authors of these publications have to protect themselves and sometimes it is better to say “never”, rather than suggest that certain passages can only be undertaken by highly experienced yachtsmen and thereby risk being sued by incompetents who end up on the rocks. pen and describes Millard as stupid, although con- ceding that he writes intelligently. He then castigates him for putting other people’s lives at risk, sailing without harbour plans for ports of refuge and using a 20-year-old pilot book. all, Millard should simply give up sailing! think he is? thought before putting pen to paper and I do have the advantage of knowing what I am talking about. As mentioned, Aubrey Millard was in the Canadian Navy; he was a career officer who commanded warships and had full responsibility for the lives of those who served under him. Since then, he and Judy have sailed the 32-foot Compass like Mr. Cobbe, rush into way in which some people, brains and, in the process, print before engaging their make public fools of themselves. DECEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 50 Carenantilles DockyardLEMARIN A&C YACHTBROKERS Port deplaisanceduMARIN Voiles Assistance Sails &Canvas(repairsfabrication) E-mail: [email protected] Open MondaytoFriday8-12am2-6pm www.acyachtbrokers.com - Breakfast(Coffee,Croissants)FishingItems Open 7amto7pmSundays:1pm Tel: +596747094 Fax:+596747808 BOATS FORSALE e-mail: [email protected] LE MARIN/MARTINIQUE located atCarenantillesdockyard - Fuel/Diesel/GasLaundryCallStation - GroceryIceCigarettesColdDrinks tel/fax: (596)596748832 Saturday byappointment MARTINIQUE Didier andMaria Conveniently locatedat Mobile: +696292812 B B Full ServiceStation: I I C M C M H H A A I I R R K K T T

I S I S N N E E I I R R Q Q V V U U I I C C E E E E S S Dear Ti Kanot Chris Doyle Good swimmingall, and unfortunatelystuffsometimeshappens. rivers getfullofrun-offfromtheland.Livingisrisky be muchmoreprevalentafterheavyrainswhenthe your risk,andinthecaseofleptospirosisitislikelyto frompreviouspage —Continued Dear S/V Scud Tina Dreffin Very kindregards, in mythinkingandwayoflife.” kill, andnottocondoneanyactofkillingintheworld, plants…. Iamdeterminednottokill,letothers learn waystoprotectthelivesofpeople,animals, destruction oflife,Ivowtocultivatecompassionand erence forlife:“Awareofthesufferingcausedby — withoneofhisprecepts,designedtopromoterev- Prize in1967.Ileaveyouall—asmindfulindividuals (a VietnameseBuddhistmonk)fortheNobelPeace looks tothefutureforjobs. are worthmorealivethandeadasthenextgeneration and supportingindustriesbenefit.Surely,seaturtles servation efforts.Ownersofrestaurants,boutiques, Tourists returntoislandsthatsupportadmirablecon- on yourshores,youareleavingalastingimpression. killing yourseaturtles,insteadofmakingthemguests islands toseesuchbeauty,feelit,andrevelinit.By the jewelsofCaribbean!Touristsflocktoyour these ancientbeasts,oroflosingthem. mined. Wecouldbeattheturningpointofsaving Grenadines, theconservationefforthasbeenunder- but areharvestedinSt.LuciaandVincent&the become extinctinthenextfewdecades. knows itisgone.Somescientistsfearseaturtlescould over andagaincoulddisappearbeforeanyone is soeasytocatch,andcomesbackthesameplace this. Andtheniskilled.Acreaturethattastessogood, to 50yearsmatureandreproduce. and fromeatingoceantrash.Theycantaketen ing entangledinmonofilamentfishinglineornets, lost tocoastaldevelopment;theydrownafterbecom- as theyswiminopenwaters;suitablenestingsitesare sharks preyonthemduringtheirfirstfiveyearsoflife survive hatchingduetoavianandlandpredators; lenges: eveniftheeggsaren’t(illegally)harvested,few the stepsoftheirfathers. laws), andthenewgenerationofchildrenfollowingin according tothenewlyreinstatedturtle-fishingseason the fishermenwhonettedseaturtles(legally, Lucia andSt.Vincent&theGrenadinesgovernments, dawn hourstowritethisimpassionedpleatheSt. night; Ionlyfoundpeacewhenawakenedinpre- Soufriere, St.Lucia,hauntedmeinthedarknessof photo oflargeseaturtlesbeingslaughteredin letter inyourNovemberissue’sReaders’Forum.Their “Well,” Ireplied withalocked jaw,“oneofthem is expected hertosay “AndstopcallingmeShirley”). port?” “No,it’sfinished whenwesayso.”(Ihalf Surely securityisfinished whenthey’vealllefttheair- can’t tellyouthat for securityreasons.”“Whynot? Virgin desk.“Werethey ontheplane?”Iasked.“We all thepassengershadleftairport I wenttothe Atlantic flightfromGatwick.Theydidn’t. Finallywhen with acoffeeandwenttoseethemarrive ontheVirgin plenty oftimeforananti-diabetichotdog, drownedit know, doalittlework,gotothebeach. I gottherein ed tostayonmyboatasaworkingholiday —you in AntiguatopickuptwoRussianfriends whowant- bles. Dear S/Y TheBelleofVirginia Hudson Hoen Best regards, the islands. ing byaprovidingsingleclearanceprocessforallof making yachttourismamongsttheislandsmoreinvit- the sensiblethingandtransformAPISintoameansof yachts over100tons. Information, howeveritisstillrequiredofprivate ing smallprivateyachtstoprovideAdvancePassenger ing it.ShetoldmethatAntiguawasnolongerrequir- private yachts,sinceIhadreadthattheywererequir- APIS, soIaskedwhatthestatuswaswithregardto October, theImmigrationofficermadenomentionof When IclearedoutatNelson’sDockyardon31 staying ontopofit! your articleonAPIS.It’sagreatupdate—thanksfor As Tinasaid,thereisnothingwrongwithdecreasing I justdownloadedtheNovember Martin LutherKing,Jr.nominatedThichNhatHanh How blessedyouaretoliveinthenaturalbeautyof If seaturtlesareprotectedinneighboringislands, By thetimeyouevenseeaturtle,ithassurvivedall Sea turtlesfaceaplethoraoflife-threateningchal- It waswithgreatsadnessthatIreadtheJohnstons’ Last Friday(October5th)IwenttoVC Bird Airport I thinkVladimirPutinwasthecauseof all mytrou- I sincerelyhopethattheCARICOMnationswilldo I canconfirmthesituationasreportedforAntigua. Compass Compass Compass , , Readers, Compass , andread Dear CC lower stillinCumanáandMargarita. Puerto LaCruzisusuallyabouttenpoints lowerand Caracas, probablyforlargesums;the exchangein that thiswebsitegiveswhatthebolivar is goingforin exchange rateatwww.venezuelafx.blogspot.com. Note rageous priceforamarinaslip. Virgin Islands,forexample,wedon’tthink it’sanout- US$15 toUS$25pernightcostofamooring inthe US$8 toUS$11perday.Eitherway,compared tothe La Cruz,thecostwouldbesomewhereinrangeof per day.AttheblackmarketrategivenaboveforPuerto rently costtheequivalentofaboutUS$21toUS$27.50 hull ateitherBahiaRedondaorCumanagotowillcur- a dollardaylessthanCumanagoto’s. footer), BahiaRedonda’spriceforthissizeboatisabout Assuming A/Cisused(atBs6,665perdayforthe43- Bs155 perfootdaily,tocoverthecostofelectricity). daily (ifyouuseairconditioningthere’sanadditional rate therefora43-footsailboatwasgivenasBs45,200 Puerto LaCruzforaquoteonNovember9th:thedock wine anddessertwasunderUS$50.” mall, overlookingthemarina.Dinnerforthreewith good mealatanewairconditionedrestaurantinthe diesel andabout13gallonsofgasoline.Andwehada liter —wepaidBs25,000(US$4.31)for427litersof in 2006andUS$10.912007.FuelwasBs47.8per bolivars perdollarthisyear],anditcomestoUS$8.08 water. ButconvertthatintoUSdollars[wegot5,800 year itwasBs63,250—includingelectricityand triple, sortof.LastyearwepaidBs21,000andthis left Cumaná.IguessdockageatCumanagotodid Puerto LaCruzandashigh6,500inCaracas. September ithasreportedlygonetoaround5,700in a whilebutrecentlyittookofflikecrazy:sinceearly black market,thebolivarheldlineat3,700forquite erally gettheirbolivarsfrommoneychangers.Onthe the USdollar,butthat’sirrelevantbecauseboatersgen- ernment exchangerateiscurrently2,150bolivarsto of Octoberalonewas13percent! newspaper reportedthattheinflationrateinmonth annual inflationrateis17percent,oneVenezuelan other things—arebeingadjusted.Althoughtheofficial na feesinVenezuela—alongwiththepricesofmany unexpected pricehikes,it’shardlysurprisingthatmari- Dear Mary, Yacht Kristina Mary Draker ed lowerrates. 59,125 bolivarsperday. At thenewrates,a43-footmonohullketchischarged lot hereatMarinaCumanagoto,Cumaná,Venezuela. Dear Schooner St.Peter Bob Williamson have visas,eveniftheyareintransit! any timeyoulikebuttellthemnottolandunlessthey plane forKaliningradthisafternoon.” she repliedsmugly.“You’retoolate.Weputthemona to tryreversethisridiculoussituation.”“Ohno,” them backtoRussiathiseveningsoIhaveafewhours here atImmigration.” “No, no,”shereplied.“We’renotpoliticallymotivated and scaringthepantsoffeverybureaucratinworld.” a loadofRussianbombersatAlaskayesterdaymorning went on,“thisoutrageisduetoVladimirPutinchucking papers andnovisashadproblems.Maybe,”I first twoRussianguestsarrivedwithpreciselythesame “That’s rampantrubbish,”Ireplied.“Twoweeksagomy must carryvisastoentertheUK,evenintransit.” weren’t requiredtohavevisasforAntigua.”“AllRussians carrying visasbecausetheywereintransitand something todowithavisaproblem.”“Buttheyweren’t course Iaskedthereasonandshesaidvaguely,“Itwas been stoppedgettingontheVirginflighttoAntigua.Of answered myquestionandsaidthatthetwoguyshad I rangImmigrationatGatwick.Abad-temperedwoman example ofbureaucracy. English Harbour,headspinningwiththislatest flight.” TheyrefusedtodothatsoIdroveback first namethenIcansupposethattheywereonthe Russian names,andoneofthemhas‘A’beginninghis examine yoursecretpassengerlistandfindtwo them probablyliveinGreece.Now,ifyoucansecretly people inthewholeworldcalledAristotleandtwoof called Aristotle.Now,thereareprobablyonlythree By theway,youcantrackVenezuela’sblack market At the Another friendaskedMarinaBahiaRedondain Another cruiserwroteinearlyNovember:“Wejust A sourceinVenezuelatellsusthattheofficialgov- While wecanunderstandboatersbeingupsetby A coupleofmarinasinnearbyPuertoLaCruzquot- Since the15thofOctober,feeshavegoneupquitea [email protected] Send yourlettersto: Letters maybeedited forlength,clarityandfairplay. We wanttohearfrom YOU! Mr. Putin,youcansendyourbomberstoGatwick “Well,” Isaid,“Iwastoldthatyouaregoingtosend Later wediscoveredthattheyhadmissedtheplane,so Compass Compass official exchange rate,aslipfor43-footmono- , Readers, DECEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 51 : Compass NEW 63’ SAIL CAT ACANCIES! SEATING FOR 90 PASSENGERS NEW … and more! Relaxing in St. Lucia CATAMARANS Bequia, St Vincent & the Grenadines Bequia, St Vincent [email protected] • Available as single or double deck 49 passengers, Base price $199,000 TradeWinds Cruise Club operate a fleet of catamarans across a fleet of catamarans across Cruise Club operate TradeWinds in the Caribbean. six destinations charter company, are the fastest growing We all inclusive, 7 days. TERM CHARTERS, operating Selected Shortwave Weather Reports An Informed Look at Security Trends email: [email protected] email: CREW V CREW All new Offshore 53’ catamaran Twin diesel,

or by mail to: Bequia Marina, P.O.Box 194BQ, Port Elizabeth, P.O.Box or by mail to: Bequia Marina, AVAILABLE FOR IMMEDIATE DELIVERY Tel. St Vincent +784 457 3407 Tel. St Maarten +599 5510550 Tel. +784 457 3407 St Vincent Tel. Annual Calendar of Caribbean Events 2008 • Fast delivery • Twin Diesel - Base Price $299,000 • Fast delivery • Twin Diesel - Base Price Read in Next Month’s • 63 x 24 Power Cat USCG Stability test for 149 PAX • 63 x 24 Power Cat USCG Stability test Call Ron Cooper (727) 367- 5004 • www.coopermarine.com We are looking for crew, mainly teams in the form of a Captain and a Chef/Hostess. teams in the form of a Captain mainly are looking for crew, We for at least a year. OR have been living together prefer couples that are married We and teamwork better the understanding the job is such that the The nature of your charters will be. and Chef the more successful between Captain a Skipper’sRequirements: Captain with licence. understanding of cooking. Chef/Hostess with a basic either the Captain and/or Chef is a plus. Dive master/ instructor for full training onsite in the Caribbean. offer We earning potential. If you are willing to work hard and This is a FUN job with great to life this could be your DREAM job. have a positive disposition welcome to apply. Anyone with an interest is about this job or send your CV to us, please If you would like more information use this email address: $47K $125K ’77 $367K ’83 $249K ’82 $55K 1 cab/1 hd cab/1 hd ’87 AC, Genset, 450HP cruise equipped Solid Cruiser ’76 $115,000 43’ 1979 Young Sun, POWER MULTIHULLS Bluewater Cruiser, fully equipped 40’ EXE Marine C-Farer II, Gaff Cutter, Sail Power 56’ Horizon Motor yacht, Immaculate Condition! ’0148’ Sunseeker Manhattan, 3 cab/2 hd, 435HP $690K 47’ De Fever Tri cabin, 3 cab/3 hd, ’9742’ Hi-Star Trawler, 2 cab/2 hd $379K 36’ Heritage East 36 2 cab/2 hd, 2 avail from35’ Maxum SCR 3500, 2 cab/1 head27’ Eastern 27 Down East, 1 cab ’01 $187K ’01 $129K ’88 $199K ’06 $99K 40’ Passport 40, 2 cab/2 hd40’ Jeanneau Sun Ody. 3cab/2hd, Well Priced40’ Jeanneau Sun Ody. 3 cab/2 hd ’0039’ Tollycraft Fast Passage Cutter, 2 cab/1 hd $112K 39’ Corbin, Ketch CC, 2 cab/2 hd ’8338’ Morgan 38 CC, Sloop, 2 cab/1 hd $125K 37’ Jeanneau Sun Ody. 2cab/1hd, Motivated37’ Jeanneau Sun Ody. 2cab/1hd, Motivated36’ S2 11.0A, 1 cab/1 Qtr berth/1 hd ’0036’ Tiburon, Cutter/Ketch 1cab/1hd $109K ’00 $89K ’99 $109K ’98 ’88 $99K ’85 $199K $125K ’85 $49K 35’ Beneteau Moorings 351, 2 cab/1 hd35’ Beneteau 351 Oceanis, 2 cab/1 hd35’ O’Day, 2 cab/1 hd, Great Condition 32’ Northshore Vancouver 32, Cutter, 1 ’94 $50K ’95 ’87 $59K $38K 46’ Fountaine Pajot Bahia 4 cab/4 hd46’ Fountaine Pajot Bahia 4 cab/4 hd40’ Fountaine Pajot Lavezzi, Owner’s Version ’0358’ Hatteras Yachtfish, 3 cab/3 hd, $295K ’03 $399K ’01 $370K ’01 $165K ’98 $205K ’84 $99K ’86 $349K ’79 $165K [email protected] Tel: (340) 779-1660 Fax: (340) 779-2779 St. Thomas, U.S.V.I. 00802 2 avail. from Well Maintained www.stthomasyachts.com Great Condition Motivated Sellers SAIL Luxurious & Spacious P.O Box 638, Road Town, Tortola, British Virgin Islands Compass Point Marina, 6300 Est. Frydenhoj, Suite 28, Compass Point Marina, 6300 Est. Frydenhoj, Suite 28, $33,500 website: www.bviyachtsales.com / Call for a complete list of over 70 boats website: www.bviyachtsales.com / Call for a complete list of over

Tel: 284-494-3260 Fax: 284-494-3535 email: [email protected]

new eng. paint and interior ST. THOMAS YACHT THOMAS ST. SALES 33’ 1973 Pearson 10M Sloop, Call, fax or visit our website for a complete list of boats for sale 27’ 1991 Monza, twin Mercs, trailer30’ 1997 Salt Shaker SF, new 250HP Yamahas, cuddy cabin36’ 2002 Custom Catamaran, aluminum fishing cat,w/Tuna Tower50’ 1996 Carver CMY, Cat engs. Low hrs, new electronics $125,000 $ 79,000 $249,000 $ 30,000 33’ 1973 Pearson 10M Sloop, refit, new eng. paint,40’ 1984 Endeavour sloop, Well maintained, ready to cruise,49’ 1979 Transpacific Ketch, Bluewater cruiser, Excellent cond.55’ 1956 Custom Yawl, Excellent charter business, CG cert for 18 $199,000 $250,000 $ 95,000 $ 33,500

54’ Gulfstar 54, 3 cab/2 hd, 58’ Boothbay Challenger CC, Ketch, 3 cab/2 hd ’73 $239K 60’ Palomba Pilothouse CC, Ketch, 5 cab/2 hd ’70 $99K 64’ Haj Kutter Schooner, Square Rig, 3 cab/1 hd ’30 $425K

40’ Island Packet, Cutter, 2 cab/2 hd, 40’ Dufour, Sloop, 3cab/1hd Performance racer ’05 $249K 41’ Morgan 416, Ketch, CC, 2 cab/2 hd ’83 $78K 41’ Cheoy Lee Offshore, Ketch, 2 cab/1 hd ’77 $99K 42’ Tayana V42 CC, 2 cab/2 hd, Loaded ’85 $130K 42’ Hunter Deck Salon, 2 cab/2 hd, New Listing ’03 $199K 42’ Hunter Passage, 2 cab/2 hd, Great condition ’93 $139K 40’ Bayfield, 2 cab/1 hd, Ketch, 42’ Dufour Gibsea, 3 cab/2 hd, Well Maintained ’01 $125K 40’ Beneteau M405, 3 cab/2 hd, Loaded ’96 $78K 42’ Millennium Marine 42.5, 3 cab/2 hd, Racer ’07 $360K 40’ Beneteau M405, 3 cab/2 hd, Loaded40’ Catalina 400, 2cab/2hd, Great Condition ’95 $109K ’95 $109K 44’ CSY Walkover CC, 2 cab/2 hd, 44’ CSY 44CC, Cutter 2 cab/2 hd, Reduced ’77 $ 85K 44’ Beneteau 44CC, 2 cab/2 hd, In Great Shape ’94 $189K 46’ Hunter 460, 3 cab/2 hd 2 avail. from ’00 $125K 46’Formosa Peterson Cutter, 2 cab/2 hd ’79 $99K 50’ Beneteau 50, Cutter, 4 cab/4 hd ’97 $219K 50’ Beneteau 50, Cutter, 4 cab/1 crew/5 hd ’02 $299K 51’ Formosa Cust. Ketch CC, 3 cab/3 hd ’80 $199K 43’ Jeanneau Sun Ody. 3-4 cab/2 hd, 53’ German Frers, Ketch, 3 cab/2 hd ’01 $275K 43’ Young Sun 43 Pilothouse, 2 cab/1 hd ’84 $99K DECEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 52 Croix. Justcompleted4year Cruise ready,locatedinSt. outboard andmuchmore. maker, SSB,inverter,dinghy, solar, windgenerator,water- Yanmar, self-steering,autopilot, Ted Brewerdesign,3cyl 1984 33' STEELCUTTER,MURRAY [email protected] specs/pictures E-mail 119,000 Canadian,for below currentsurvey,asking seen, hauledinAntigua,well far toomuchtolist,mustbe ers,radar/arch, dinghy/davits, tackle, cockpitcushions/cov- fridge/freezer, interior,ground tor/water-maker, batteries, ics, separatedieselalterna- new upsizedrig,allelectron- and upgradesin'05including COAST 34 [email protected] (784) 458-4656E-mail St. Vincent,US$35,000/OBOTel cuddy cabinsleeps4,located Yamaha's, newseats,top, 27' WELLCRAFTNOVA E-mail [email protected] CHARTERER KETCH 55' 40PASSENGERDAY Tel (473)435-4174 Club. ContactSelwyn Berthed atGrenadaYacht lass, manyextrasforcruising. 2GM20, Zetusmanualwind- in Durban,S.A.Yanmar Beckmeyer, builtbyZ-Craft Africa designbyOswald Bermuda sloop.PopularSo. 31' (9.35M)MURIA1992 DETSRLCTO PG LOCATION ADVERTISER iia atnqe45 Martinique 21 30 51 St.Maarten 21 Curaçao USA 45 St.Maarten 47 Diginav 12 9 Diesel Outfitters Martinique Curaçao Marine Mustique 49 Martinique Corea's FoodStoreMustique 51 42 Cooper Marine Trinidad Guadeloupe CIRExpress 2 25 Caribbean PropellersLtd. Martinique Tortola Carene Shop SintMaarten UnionIsand Carenantilles 50 4 7 Caraibe Yachts 47 Caraibe Greement 51 Martinique BVI YachtSales Carriacou 44 Budget Marine Mustique Bequia Bougainvilla Trinidad Bogles RoundHouse 46 44 Grenada Bichik Services 9 20 PetiteMartinique Bequia MusicFest St.Vincent Bay IslandYachts Antigua 44 Basil’s Bar Trinidad Barefoot YachtCharters 50 B &CFuelDock Art Fabrik Martinique Anjo Insurance UK Aikane Trinidad Admiral YachtInsurance A&C YachtBrokers BOATS FORSALE , 1984,majorrefit 2 x200hp [email protected] reduced toUS$165,000E-mail: ready forafastsale.Just 1998 CATAMARAN ATHENA38, [email protected] 312-2993 E-mail US$380,000 Tel(868) dinghy w/10hpMercury. batteries, newinflatable 170w solarpanels,16Trojan upper deckw/fullcover,9x loaded electronics,12'x21' CAT 2001 LAGOON43POWER [email protected] US$7500/offers E-mail repairs needed.Sacrifice ments &pilot,LyingTrinidad, Profurl, Yanmar,B&Ginstru- 36' DUTCHSTEELCUTTER [email protected] Margarita US$20,000E-mail fortable, goodcondition,lying England 1993,strongandcom- SUPER ATLANTAVIKING27' E-mail [email protected] Good conditionUS$30,000 CD, wheelsteering,lotsmore. 2 jibs,mains,spinnaker,TV, Yanmar 2GM20,newAwlgrip, PEARSON 30'BUILT1973 [email protected] Tel: (784)458-8829E-mail: www.artandsea.com. Island, SVG.Infoon ready tosail,locatedPalm tion, plentyofnewupgrades, 1986 Beneteau51 Tel (784)458-8888 [email protected] Tel (340)626-2186E-mail Caribbean cruise.US$50,000 , verygoodcondition excellent condition, # DETSRLOCATIONPG ADVERTISER Nice condi- oar nepie K33/49 23 4 UK 27 Martinique 26 29 Bequia 10 Iolaire Enterprises Tortola 11 12 48 Horizon YachtManagement Bequia 10 Grenada GRPro-Clean Guadeloupe Bequia 21 Grenadines Sails Grenada Grenada Grenadine IslandVilla Bequia Grenada SailingFestival 48 Trinidad Grenada Marine 48 Friendship Rose Grenada Fred Marine 21 16 Frangipani Hotel 17 Food Fair Bequia Flying FishVentures Jamaica 13 First Mate 5 USA Antigua 1 Fernando's Hideaway 46 Falmouth HarbourMarina 53 Tortola Errol FlynnMarina Trinidad 22 Barbados Echo Marine-JotunSpecial Doyle's Guides Bequia Grenada Doyle OffshoreSails 32 Carriacou 34 Doyle OffshoreSails Down IslandRealEstate Doris FreshFood Dominica St.Lucia 43 Dopco Travel Dominica MarineCenter Martinique Dockwise YachtTransportSarl Discovery Marigot , new 1976 Built [email protected] (58) 416-3824187E-mail deliveries. TelCrisRobinson cal problemsandyacht INSURANCE SURVEYS, PUERTO LACRUZ,VENZ. E-mail [email protected] Call (784)4564963after6pm. buyers only.Salebyowner. House andLand.Serious Point, LowerBay,Bequia. PROPERTY FORSALE www.caribtrace.com Grenadines andTyrrelBay views overlookingSouthern and multiacretracts.Great CARRIACOU, ONEACRELOTS [email protected] rental available.E-mail fruit trees.US$320,000,Term land, fencedwithmature road -nostairs!12,558sqftof full kitchen,laundry,levelwith bedrooms, 1guestbedroom, yards frombeach.2master Lovely 1250sqft.cottage,100 FRIENDSHIP BAY,BEQUIA Tel (868)650-1914 36HP YANMAROUTBOARDDIESEL MASTS -TURBULENCEGRENADA Trinidad Tel(868)-680-4210 Storage; Radar,GPS,AutoPilot. double bunks;Baitwell,Tackle Top/Corian counters;V-Berth& Refrigerator/Freezer, Cook generator; AC,head,shower; diesel engines315hpea.5kw 30’ RAMPAGEEXPRESS. 110K Ph:(868)-739-6449 Cat 42’175K,Jeanneau36” Cat 72’P.O.A.,RogerSimpson Custom Ketch40’100K,Power 40’ 139K,Pearson36’45K, San Juan34’40K,Vanderstat US$285K, Morgan60’US195K 42’ 135KEuro,GrandSoleil52’ CMS YachtBrokersBavarian CMS YACHTBROKER E-mail [email protected] Tel (473)439-4495/415-8271 hulls. 16-17&22meters. 3 mastssuitableformono/multi- PROPERTY FORSALE MISC. FORSALE SERVICES ADVERTISERS INDEX CLASSIFIEDS at Bells electri- Twin has # DETSRLOCATIONPG ADVERTISER al skills,projectmanagement claims, strongcommunication- reports andpreparewarranty skills, abilitytowriteservice have excellentorganizational Road Town,Tortola,BVI.Must Industrial Servicebusinessin needed forbusyMarine SERVICE ADMINISTRATOR information: www.cabier.com from 13/5until24/6/08formore small lodgeduringourholidays talented coupletooperatea GRENADA STAND INFORGUESTHOUSE [email protected] Tel (784)430-4481E-mail turnkey operation.US$295,000 ins/ 2heads.Broker/web-site, Privelege Catamaran,4cab- firmed bookingson39' BUSINESS GRENADINES CHARTER om InPLCTel(58)416-3824187 www.watercraftwatermaker.c Check ourpricesat and PuertoLaCruz,Venezuela. service availableatCuracao tems, membranes,sparesand WATERMAKERS E-mail [email protected] ices Tel(473)537-9193/538-4608 ings/lift bags.Allundewaterserv- salvage/emergency/moor- UNDERWATER DIVINGSERVICES E-mail [email protected] 2897 www.nzimbu-browne.com drum Tel(784)457-1677/531- nous bananacraftanddjembe CRAFTS ST. VINCENT-NZIMBUARTS& [email protected] Tel (784)457-3291E-mail tomized canvasspecialist Interior/exterior/cus- BEQUIA -CANVAS full moon.VHF16 6pm Moonlightpartyevery Happy Houreverydayfrom5- personal laundryservice. propane tankfill-up, sale. Taxiserviceavailable, Eggs, bread,cheese,iceon NIMROD’S RUMSHOP,GRENADA at o prsBrBqi 47 14 4 48 38 Bequia Aruba 46 46 Grenada 8 Bequia Salty DogSportsBar Martinique Martinique PSV Renaissance Marina 44 Prickly BayMarina Tortola 50 Porthole Restaurant Venezuela Ponton duBakoua 6 Petit St.Vincent 48 22 Trinidad 39 Petit Ponton 8 34 48 Perkins Engines Tortola Peake YachtBrokerage Grenada Caribbean Bequia Northern LightsGenerators 15 Azores Navimca Bequia Bequia 53 Mid AtlanticYachtServices 23 McIntyre Bros.Ltd Grenada Maranne's IceCream 23 40 Mac's Pizza St.Vincent 34 40 USA Lulley's Tackle 19 LIAT St.Vincent St.Croix Le PhareBleu Bequia Latitudes &Attitudes Bequia St.Lucia Lagoon MarinaHotel 64 KP Marine Jones Maritime SintMaarten Johnson Hardware John Cawsey Jack's Bar Island WaterWorld BUSINESS FORSALE for highqualityindige- WANTED Looking foramulti- 20 weekscon- Complete sys- [email protected] (284) 494-6972E-mail experience preferred.FaxCV background withmarine control issues.Mechanical the abilitytohandlequality and costaccountingskills, Tel (473)439-2049 [email protected] in GrenadaCVto;E-mail ty ofanestablishedcompany ent techlookingforthestabili- Ideal forcruiserorindepend- water makers&refrigeration. diesel, electrical,electronics, experienced technicianfor Grenada seekingallaround Marine EngineeringCo,in IMMEDIATELY MARINE TECHNICIANWANTED [email protected] Contact BobE-mail chores andexpenses. to sharesailing,cooking, and easytogetonwith.Willing experience, amdependable Nov/Jan timeframe.Have ty for1to3monthsinthe looking foracruisingopportuni- I am58,male,retired,fitand CRUISING OPPORTUNITYWANTED # DETSRLOCATIONPG ADVERTISER Respected aauMrn eeul 45 40 4 Venezuela 8 47 50 Bequia Grenada St.Vincent Venezuela Xanadu Marine Martinique 28 Whisper CoveMarina 29 Wallilabou Anchorage 41 20 Wallace &Co 51 Grenada Voiles Assistance VirginGorda 17 Grenada 33 Virgin GordaYachtHarbour Carriacou 4 Vemasca 9 St.Vincent Tyrrel BayYachtHaulout Bequia Grenada Turbulence Sails Germany True BlueBay Trinidad 41 Trade WindsCruising 28 51 Tikal Arts&Crafts 36 St.Maarten Thomas Peake&Sons 21 St.Thomas SVG Air Grenada 41 Super Wind 18 Carriacou Tortola St. ThomasYachtSales 55 17 St. MaartenSails Maarten St. Martinique Spice IslandMarine 33 Guadeloupe Soper's HoleMarina Simpson BayMarina Guadeloupe 31 UK Silver Diving Sevenstar YachtTransport Sea Services Curaçao Sea andSail Schip-O-Case Santa BarbaraResorts [email protected] Fax: (784)457-3410orE-mail Vincent andtheGrenadines. Box 175BQ,Bequia,St. to: CompassPublishing,PO copy, photoandpayment be heldfornextissue.Send received afterdeadlinewill ing themonthofissue.Copy 15th ofeachmonth,preced- Pre-paid. Deadlineisthe classifieds areEC$20/US$8. ings/photos accompanying numbers incount.Linedraw- include name,addressand EC$1/US 40¢perword– BEAUTIFUL… Dispose ofyour KEEP THE CLASSIFIED ADS ISLANDS properly!! garbage

# CASIMIR HOFFMANN CASIMIR DECEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 53 , with Larry and Carrie on —Continued on next page Thunderball

by Julia Bartlett

WHAT’S ON MY MIND ON WHAT’S

Christmas Past, Christmas

Christmas Future Christmas It was three days before Christmas, the sun was shining and the palm trees rus- the palm trees shining and the sun was Christmas, three days before It was little over the afford to over-indulge a had worked and I could My keep-fit regime asked. “Do you want to go home to get it checked out?” “What do you want to do?” he Hilton, was The boat next to us, in Marina I am not going to tell you the full story of Carrie’s fight but here are a few details I am not going to tell you the full story of Carrie’s fight Carrie recovered fully, if a little lopsidedly, and when they sailed out of Luperón I thought about my partner’s question and then I answered, “I think that I’ll get a When I told Larry and Carrie about my lump I discovered that they were waiting “Larry’s promised that if I’m clear we can do the Great Wall of China next year,” The day before Christmas Eve I had my fine-needle biopsy performed and Carrie “That’s a wonderful Christmas present; I’m so pleased,” I said as I hugged her. “Yes it is,” she said. “Do you know I’ve got a hernia now? Getting old sucks and “The alternative is pretty boring, though,” I said. “How are you coping with the anxiety of waiting?” asked Larry. “That’s the hard part. Nobody talks about that much,” I said. It helped that Larry had asked about the anxiety because I had the suspicion that I There aren’t any medals given out for the way that Larry and Carrie had risen to their CHRISTMAS PRESENT CHRISTMAS tled in the Trades. Our boat-sized Christmas tree had been dug out its home at the dug out its home had been Christmas tree boat-sized the Trades. Our tled in was full. I tested and the cocktail cabinet pilot berth, the fairy lights far end of the Day visit to the morning Christmas Eve list ready for an early had a last minute not big on brus- wistfully. They were with brussels sprouts underlined, supermarket Venezuela. sels sprouts in work in the mir- the results of my hard in the shower I surveyed holidays. Undressed shot through breast was an odd shape. Fear when I noticed that my left ror and that’s worse. With my lifted my arm and it looked my breath like an icicle. I me, catching my shower and a small hard lump. I had my breast and there it was, right hand I felt sleepless night I told my partner. It was still there. After a checked again. to give you a flavour. Treatment involved long bus journeys on Dominican roads to to give you a flavour. Treatment involved long bus journeys coping with the language bar- and from Santo Domingo while taking chemo-therapy, they couldn’t afford the rier and watching other patients suffer and decline because on and off a boat at anchor same treatment that Carrie was having. The clambering after a major operation was an agonising exercise. Larry nursed Carrie, supported her emotionally, cooked often-rejected but appetising meals, shopped and maintained the boat. All this was in the steamy heat of the tropics. they took a little piece of everyone’s heart with them. Who better could I have moored alongside when I found my lump? biopsy here first and make that decision when I get the results.” for the results of Carrie’s routine six-monthly blood test. Carrie said. got the all-clear from her blood test. that’s for sure!” And she laughed. was over-reacting to my discovery. After all, it was just a little lump that was probably totally benign. I wouldn’t have been surprised if I had a heart attack from the level of anxiety, perhaps fear is a better word, I was experiencing. I was ten times more scared than the first time that I realized that the nearest land was three miles under me. challenge but they were an inspiration to me and an example that I wanted to live up to. board and they were my heroes. Three years previously while we were all in Luperón, board and they were my heroes. Three years previously had discovered that she had on the north coast of the Dominican Republic, Carrie while they were having fun. breast cancer. Well, actually Larry found the lump of the reasons was that she Carrie had opted to stay in the DR for treatment and one be harder to hang on to the felt that once she went home, psychologically, it would cruising dream. ‘Carrie and Larry were an inspiration to me. Christmas morning I shall ‘Carrie and Larry were an inspiration to me. Christmas drink a toast to them’ DECEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 54 TBA TBA TBA TBA TBA TBA TBA 31 -Feb3 25 -29 24 -27 24 -26 23 -Feb6 22 17 -20 16 -19 15 14 -20 12 11 -23 11 -13 11 9 6 2 -4 2 1 -5 1 -2 1 1 JANUARY 2008 31 31 31 29 28 -31 26 -1Jan 26 26 25 24 -2Jan 24 21 19 16 -24 15 15 14 -16 14 13 12 -15 9 9 5 -12 5 -10 5 3 -7 1 -2 1 -2 DECEMBER 2007 If youwouldlikeanauticalortourism eventlistedFREEinourcalendar, at thetimethisissueof please sendthename anddate(s)oftheevent name so pleasecontacteventorganizers directly forconfirmation. Around BarbadosRace.www.sailbarbados.com Curaçao InternationalRegatta.www.curacaoregatta.com Around AntiguaRace,AYC Governor’s CupRace,BVI.RBVIYC Zoo Regatta,Gosier,[email protected] Latitude 18HalyardChallenge,BVI.RBVIYC [email protected] Ronde deNuitRace,Martinique.ClubNautiqueLeNeptune(CNN), Puerto Rico.www.nauticodesanjuan.com Port LouisGrenadaSailingFestival. Bequia MusicFest.www.bequiatourism.com/events.htm www.airjamaicajazzandblues.com Jamaica Jazz&BluesFestival,MontegoBay. FULL MOON Errol BarrowDay.PublicholidayinBarbados St. Maarten-St.MartinClassicYachtRegatta.www.ClassicRegatta.com Spice IslandBillfishTournament,[email protected] Martin LutherKingDay.PublicholidayinPuertoRicoandUSVI Barbados JazzFestival.www.barbadosjazzfestival.com Underwater Cleanup,Bonaire.www.dive-friends-bonaire.com St. BartsMusicFestival.www.stbartsmusicfestival.org www.caribwind.com/ltc 6th CaribbeanLaserMidwinterRegatta,DominicanRepublic. Eugenio MaríadeHostosDay.PublicholidayinPuertoRico Gran PrixdelAtlánticoracedepartsGibraltarboundforMartinique Three KingsDay/LaFêtedesRois.Publicholidayinsomeplaces Curaçao YouthSailingChampionship.www.cyc2008.org Victory ofArmedForcesDay.PublicholidayinCuba St. CroixChristmasFestival,www.usvitourism.vi St. KittsCarnival,www.stkittsnevis.com Patron SaintcelebrationsatMarinandDiamant,Martinique New Year’sDay.Publicholidayor“recoveryday”inmanyplaces St. BartsNewYear’sEveRegatta www.antiguayachtclub.com tel/fax (268)460-1799,[email protected], Nelson’s PursuitRace,Antigua.AntiguaYachtClub(AYC), Festival Day.PublicholidayinMontserrat Merry ChristmasRace,Havana,Cuba.CNIH Opti/Splash clinic,Curaç[email protected] Intl. Hemingway(CNIH),[email protected] Triumph oftheRevolutionNauticalFestival,Havana,Cuba.ClubNáutico Boxing Day.Publicholidayinmanyplaces Christmas Day.Publicholidayinmanyplaces FULL MOON Winter Solstice Separation Day.PublicholidayinAnguilla Nine MorningsCelebrations,St.Vincent.www.svgtourism.com (RBVIYC), www.rbviyc.net Commodore’s CupRace,BVI.RoyalBritishVirginIslandsYachtClub Kingdom Day.PublicholidayinSt.Maarten Carriacou ParangFestival.www.grenadines.net Transatlantic MaxiYachtRolexCupprizegiving,St.Maarten.www.yccs.it [email protected], www.stluciayachtclub.com Prime Minister’sCup,St.Lucia.LuciaYachtClub(SLYC), Superyacht CupAntigua,www.thesuperyachtcup.com ARC Villageopens,RodneyBayMarina,St.Lucia National HeroesDay.PublicholidayinAntigua Chanukah 46th AntiguaCharterYachtMeeting.www.antiguayachtshow.com Saba Day.Publicholidayin MYBA St.MaartenCharterShow.www.mybacaribbeanshow.com St. JohnChristmasMusicFestival,USVI.www.stjohnbluesfestival.com [email protected], www.weyc.net (WEYC), Tortola,tel(284)4951002,fax495-4184, 17th WilmerdingMemorialChallengeRegatta,BVI.WestEndYachtClub All informationwascorrecttothebest ofourknowledge St. CroixUSVIFestival,www.usvitourism.vi St. KittsCarnival 7th InternationalClubNáuticodeSanJuanRegatta, 12th MustiqueBluesFestival.www.basilsmustique.com/blues.htm and contactinformation oftheorganizingbody to [email protected] CALENDAR Compass went topress—butplanschange, See adonpage11 happy NewYear. appreciation ofthepresenttheygaveme. and toLarry,nowgallantlycontinuingonhisown,saythanksforthegiftof gifts Icouldpossiblyhave.ChristmasmorningshalldrinkaspecialtoasttoCarrie, itself, myhealthandlovingfamilyloyalfriends.Thesearethemostprecious ple sheandLarrysetme.ThisChristmasmybestpresentswillbethis Caribbean tosaygood-byetheboatfouryearsafterheroriginaldiagnosis. Larry whentheyreturnedtotheStatesandwasthereforherlastvisit her “hernia”turnedouttobeadifferentsort.Ilookedafter first-rate, nurseswerewonderfulanditwasrelativelyinexpensive.” said, “andsometimesitworksoutbetter.ThetreatmentIreceivedintheDRwas to knowthattherearewaysarounditotherthangivingupandgoinghome,”she problem whiletheyareaway,especiallyinanunderdevelopedcountry.I’dlikethem Carrie askedmetowriteaboutherstory. through meandImadesomespecialNewYearresolutions. during theholidayseason.Thengraduallyaquiet,warmfeelingofwell-beingspread the goodnewswithbecauseIhadn’twantedtoworryfamilyandfriends,especially anticlimax aftertheholidays.TherewasnooneapartfromLarryandCarrietoshare announced, “It’sclear,nocancer,”andhuggedme. my partnerread,anddecipheringtheSpanishbeforeIcouldtranslatehe after NewYearwhenIgotthem.washandedaplainwhiteenvelope. to allowfortheholidays,whicharesomewhatextendedinVenezuela,soitwaswell ning tomakeinmylifeifIgotthechanceofmoreChristmases. Carol” andthemoralofstorywassimilar.TherewerechangesthatIplan- make themostofChristmasPresent.Itwaslikelivingwithinatwist“A Christmases PastandChristmasFuturewasaquestionmark,soIdidmybestto tender, butit’snotaninnovationthatIwouldrecommend.hadmy frompreviouspage —Continued I hopethatyouallenjoythisChristmasPresentandwishahealthy Carrie’s storyhasalsobecomepartlymybecauseoftheimpactexam- Sadly, Carrie’sbloodtesttwoyearsagohadbeenforaparticularsortofcancerand “I knowthatcruisersandwould-beworryabouthavingaserioushealth It waswhenwehadmetupinGrenada,justbeforeleavingforMargarita,that I feltstrangelyflat,deflated,astheadrenalinesubsided.supposeit’slike “No seobservanevidenciascitologicasdemalignidadenlamuestraexaminada,” My resultswerelate.Theyhadtoldmetheywouldtaketendaysbutforgotten Christmas Daywasextraspecial,everythingpoignant,emotionsweremore Thunderball for herand DECEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 55 19-10-2007 15:39:50 is an art Yacht transport Yacht www.sevenstar.nl YACHT TRANSPORT OVER SEVEN SEAS headoffice tel; +31 20 4488590 • uk representative tel; +44 23 80223671 tel; +31 20 4488590 • uk representative headoffice tel; May 10-20 2008 > Southampton Tortola > Palma & La Spezia Tortola IJMUIDEN • SOUTHAMPTON • GIBRALTAR • MALLORCA • FORT LAUDERDALE • CARIBBEAN LAUDERDALE • FORT • MALLORCA • GIBRALTAR SOUTHAMPTON • IJMUIDEN 071015-01B Sevenstar ad CC.indd 1 Published by Compass Publishing Limited, St. Vincent & the Grenadines, and printed by Trinidad Publishing Company Limited