ing Grana Padano or Parmiggiano. onto farro plates,warm fresh black grind pepper on top, and sprinkle with remain- stir in remaining 1 ounce butter, nutmeg, and of a quarter the cheese.grated Spoon cook for 2 minutes. Remove from heat and taste for salt; adjust if needed. Off heat, water or stock. Farro should be soft and creamy. Stir in mushroom mixture and tender and cooked through and retains a bit of firmness. You may not use all of the stock in scant cups to again cover by ¼ farro inch. Continue process is until farro to release help its farro starch. When liquid drops below of surface farro, add more ously for 1 minute. Keep at a robust simmer, gently stirring with a wooden spoon ladles to full—onto coverfarro by ¼ inch. Add ½ tablespoon salt and stir vigor- Deglaze with white wine and cook until dry. Ladle hot stock—about two 8-ounce uncovered until onions are soft. and Add sauté farro gently, for stirring, 2 minutes. water and hold over low heat. Add 1 ounce butter and onion to sauté pan and cook and juices are reabsorbed. Set mushrooms aside. In a small saucepan, heat stock or butter in pan. Add mushrooms and garlic, and sauté until mushrooms are wilted Sauté pancetta in olive oil over low heat for 1 minute. Set aside. Melt 1 ounce with a bay leaf instead of chicken stock. surface. If you wish to make the dish vegetarian, omit the pancetta and use water flavored top of the stock after it comes to the simmer, but don’t too much worry about the fat on its else, or perhaps an onion or shallot skin, if you have one lying about. Be sure to skim the and necks and simmer them for an hour in water with a small piece of bay leaf and nothing with this dish. For a quick and easy chicken stock, buy a pound and a half of wings, backs, wonderful when prepared like risotto. I recently enjoyed the Tenuta La Pergola Roero Arneis Farro is a delicious, ancient whole-grain wheat well known in Italian cooking, and it is 3½ cups homemade chicken stock, 1 clove garlic, peeled, thinly sliced 1½ pounds wild mushrooms such as porcini, 3 ounces unsalted butter 1 ounce olive oil 1 ounce pancetta, sliced into postage and co-founder ofPop-Up General Storein Oakland. Visit hiswebsite:oldfashionedbutcher.com. or a mix thereof, sliced ½ inch thick chanterelles, hedgehogs, black trumpets, stamp–size pieces or water with bay leaf Christopher Lee is a former head chef of Chez Panisse and Eccolo restaurants inBerkeley Christopher Leeis aformerheadchef ofChezPanisseandEccolorestaurants FARRO RISOTTO WITH WILD MUSHROOMS WILD WITH RISOTTO FARRO by christopher lee christopher by
½ small yellow onion, peeled, ¼ teaspoon Tellicherry peppercorns 2 ounces Grana Padano or ⅛ teaspoon nutmeg, grated ½ tablespoon salt 2 ounces white dry wine ½ pound farro, covered with water, Parmiggiano, grated finely soaked overnight in fridge finely chopped Serves 4 as a Serves starter
November 2019
KLWM 2018 ROERO ARNEIS 2017 TOSCANA ROSSO “MONTELECCIO” TENUTA LA PERGOLA SESTI
ith all the attention paid to Barolo onteleccio is the Usain Bolt of Sesti’s Olympian and Barbaresco—and, to a slightly lesser lineup: explosive, flashy, andusually built for extent, Barbera and Dolcetto—you might the relatively short-distance sprint. Sourced think Italy’s Piedmont is home only to from Sangiovese grapes in oceanic notable red wines. One sip of this luscious, sediment in the heart of the Brunello chalky Arneis, though, proves that at least di Montalcino appellation, this bottling is divided one kind of white wine from the region can from the Brunello and Rosso di Montalcino in the cellar, where Elisa Sesti and be just as worthy of space on your table as her father, Giuseppe, decide which barrels hold the juice best suited for each bot- those renowned vini rossi. For centuries, Arneis served primarily to soften Nebbiolo tling. Derived from the Latin name for Montalcino—“hill of the holm oaks”— (in Barolo) and Barbera. Since the 1960s and 1970s, however, it has found its own Monteleccio is an enormously pleasurable, populist wine that evokes juicy, ripe Wsolo act, especially in the hills of Roero, northeast of Alba and the Barolo DOCG. Mcherries, rhubarb, and a touch of mint. This rosso is filled with class, but it doesn’t Roero is the longtime home of Arneis and probably the best terroir for it. The sandy take itself too seriously. That said, even though Usain Bolt is probably best known soils here—as opposed to the clay-rich soils around nearby towns— help to foster for the 100-meter dash, he also holds the world record for the 200-meter. Have you Arneis’s aromatic expression and provide elegance in the wines. Tenuta La Pergo- ever seen him run more? I haven’t, but I bet he’d stun even in the 400-meter. This la’s Roero Arneis is not flamboyant, but its pretty, crisp, and precise notes of pear, Monteleccio can probably also go the distance beyond the short, explosive sprint peach, and chamomile—along with the price—were enough to seduce Kermit and we love it for, particularly in the hot, dry 2017 vintage, which resulted in a rosso Dixon when they came across a carafe of it at a roadside café in Piedmont several with unusual depth, concentration, and staying power. —tom wolf
years ago. Open it as an apéritif or alongside some pasta with shellfish or ricotta $27.00 per bottle $291.60 per case and spinach, and discover another stellar white wine value from Italy. —tom wolf
$16.00 per bottle $172.80 per case
2018 Roero Arneis Vines planted Serve cold Chamomile, pear, Drink Arneis in 1995 46–52° F peach now Tenuta La Pergola Sand Do not decant Precise, crisp, chalky
2017 Toscana Sangiovese 15-year-old Serve Cherries, mint, Drink Rosso vines slightly cool rhubarb now “Monteleccio” 58–62° F through Oceanic Explosive, deep, 2025 Sesti sediment Decant concentrated optional
kermit lynch wine merchant To reorder any of our Wine Club selections, please give us a call at 510.524.1524 The Sesti estate to speak to a salesperson, or send us an email at [email protected]. 2018 ROERO ARNEIS 2017 TOSCANA ROSSO “MONTELECCIO” TENUTA LA PERGOLA SESTI
ith all the attention paid to Barolo onteleccio is the Usain Bolt of Sesti’s Olympian and Barbaresco—and, to a slightly lesser lineup: explosive, flashy, andusually built for extent, Barbera and Dolcetto—you might the relatively short-distance sprint. Sourced think Italy’s Piedmont is home only to from Sangiovese grapes in oceanic notable red wines. One sip of this luscious, sediment in the heart of the Brunello chalky Arneis, though, proves that at least di Montalcino appellation, this bottling is divided one kind of white wine from the region can from the Brunello and Rosso di Montalcino in the cellar, where Elisa Sesti and be just as worthy of space on your table as her father, Giuseppe, decide which barrels hold the juice best suited for each bot- those renowned vini rossi. For centuries, Arneis served primarily to soften Nebbiolo tling. Derived from the Latin name for Montalcino—“hill of the holm oaks”— (in Barolo) and Barbera. Since the 1960s and 1970s, however, it has found its own Monteleccio is an enormously pleasurable, populist wine that evokes juicy, ripe Wsolo act, especially in the hills of Roero, northeast of Alba and the Barolo DOCG. Mcherries, rhubarb, and a touch of mint. This rosso is filled with class, but it doesn’t Roero is the longtime home of Arneis and probably the best terroir for it. The sandy take itself too seriously. That said, even though Usain Bolt is probably best known soils here—as opposed to the clay-rich soils around nearby towns— help to foster for the 100-meter dash, he also holds the world record for the 200-meter. Have you Arneis’s aromatic expression and provide elegance in the wines. Tenuta La Pergo- ever seen him run more? I haven’t, but I bet he’d stun even in the 400-meter. This la’s Roero Arneis is not flamboyant, but its pretty, crisp, and precise notes of pear, Monteleccio can probably also go the distance beyond the short, explosive sprint peach, and chamomile—along with the price—were enough to seduce Kermit and we love it for, particularly in the hot, dry 2017 vintage, which resulted in a rosso Dixon when they came across a carafe of it at a roadside café in Piedmont several with unusual depth, concentration, and staying power. —tom wolf
years ago. Open it as an apéritif or alongside some pasta with shellfish or ricotta $27.00 per bottle $291.60 per case and spinach, and discover another stellar white wine value from Italy. —tom wolf
$16.00 per bottle $172.80 per case
2018 Roero Arneis Vines planted Serve cold Chamomile, pear, Drink Arneis in 1995 46–52° F peach now Tenuta La Pergola Sand Do not decant Precise, crisp, chalky
2017 Toscana Sangiovese 15-year-old Serve Cherries, mint, Drink Rosso vines slightly cool rhubarb now “Monteleccio” 58–62° F through Oceanic Explosive, deep, 2025 Sesti sediment Decant concentrated optional
kermit lynch wine merchant To reorder any of our Wine Club selections, please give us a call at 510.524.1524 The Sesti estate to speak to a salesperson, or send us an email at [email protected]. with a bay leaf instead of chicken stock. surface. If you wish to make the dish vegetarian, omit the pancetta and use water flavored top of the stock after it comes to the simmer, but don’t too much worry about the fat on its else, or perhaps an onion or shallot skin, if you have one lying about. Be sure to skim the and necks and simmer them for an hour in water with a small piece of bay leaf and nothing with this dish. For a quick and easy chicken stock, buy a pound and a half of wings, backs, wonderful when prepared like risotto. I recently enjoyed the Tenuta La Pergola Roero Arneis Farro is a delicious, ancient whole-grain wheat well known in Italian cooking, and it is ing Grana Padano or Parmiggiano. onto farro plates,warm fresh black grind pepper on top, and sprinkle with remain- stir in remaining 1 ounce butter, nutmeg, and of a quarter the cheese.grated Spoon cook for 2 minutes. Remove from heat and taste for salt; adjust if needed. Off heat, water or stock. Farro should be soft and creamy. Stir in mushroom mixture and tender and cooked through and retains a bit of firmness. You may not use all of the stock in scant cups to again cover by ¼ farro inch. Continue process is until farro to release help its farro starch. When liquid drops below of surface farro, add more ously for 1 minute. Keep at a robust simmer, gently stirring with a wooden spoon ladles to full—onto coverfarro by ¼ inch. Add ½ tablespoon salt and stir vigor- Deglaze with white wine and cook until dry. Ladle hot stock—about two 8-ounce uncovered until onions are soft. and Add sauté farro gently, for stirring, 2 minutes. water and hold over low heat. Add 1 ounce butter and onion to sauté pan and cook and juices are reabsorbed. Set mushrooms aside. In a small saucepan, heat stock or butter in pan. Add mushrooms and garlic, and sauté until mushrooms are wilted Sauté pancetta in olive oil over low heat for 1 minute. Set aside. Melt 1 ounce 3½ cups homemade chicken stock, 1 clove garlic, peeled, thinly sliced 1½ pounds wild mushrooms such as porcini, 3 ounces unsalted butter 1 ounce olive oil 1 ounce pancetta, sliced into postage and co-founder ofPop-Up General Storein Oakland. Visit hiswebsite:oldfashionedbutcher.com. or water with bay leaf or a mix thereof, sliced ½ inch thick chanterelles, hedgehogs, black trumpets, stamp–size pieces Christopher Lee is a former head chef of Chez Panisse and Eccolo restaurants inBerkeley Christopher Leeis aformerheadchef ofChezPanisseandEccolorestaurants FARRO RISOTTO WITH WILD MUSHROOMS WILD WITH RISOTTO FARRO by christopher lee christopher by
¼ teaspoon Tellicherry peppercorns 2 ounces Grana Padano or ⅛ teaspoon nutmeg, grated ½ tablespoon salt 2 ounces white dry wine ½ pound farro, covered with water, ½ small yellow onion, peeled, Parmiggiano, grated finely soaked overnight in fridge finely chopped Serves 4 as a Serves starter
November 2019
KLWM