OUTSTANDING CHILTERNS

Explore & enjoy in 2018/19 Photo: Angela Nicholson

BEACONS OF THE PAST Chilterns Hillforts Project THE 100 years in the Chilterns GRAB YOUR BOOTS Chilterns Walking Festival NATURAL/LANDSCAPE Water voles thriving in the Chilterns Bekonscot Model Village & Railway AN UNFORGETTABLE DAY OUT FOR EVERYONE! WELCOME to Outstanding Chilterns, our Good things do come in small packages! Bekonscot boasts the ultimate train set: one of the largest, most free annual magazine showcasing Take a leisurely stroll through Bekonscot exciting and complex model railways in the UK. And the village the Chilterns Area of Outstanding – an idyllic miniature wonderland depicting is home to approximately 3,000 figurines dotted amongst a CONTENTS breathtaking array of beautifully crafted 1:12 scale buildings. 1930s rural . Natural Beauty 3 Welcome “a little piece of history that is forever England” In this edition, you can catch-up with the very latest news from the exciting Our new Education Centre provides a great opportunity to learn 5 Chief Officer’s letter ‘Beacons of the Past’ project aiming to more about the history of Bekonscot and life in the 1930s through OPEN: use cutting-edge technology to uncover 6 Shedding light on the hillforts interactive exhibits, role play and storytelling. There’s also a tea room, the secrets of prehistoric hillforts. of the Chilterns 10.00am – 5.30pm ice cream parlour, gift shop and children’s playground. And our log And moving forward in time, we mark 10 Feb – 28 Oct cabin is a fun place to hold a child’s birthday party (please contact us the Royal Air Force’s centenary by exploring its close 8 Wings over the Chilterns for more details). Pre-booked schools and coach tours welcome! association with the Chilterns. Plus we talk to the Creative 10 Planning to protect this DON’T MISS: Director of the newly established Chilterns Art Festival which has been an instant success. special landscape sit-on railway* And for those seeking a great family day out, we take remote controlled boats* 11 Designing for life in the Chilterns a look at what the historic town of Tring has to offer. If a pirate water feature* you’re intending to stretch your legs and take in some 12 Map of the Chilterns AONB kiddie rides* glorious views, we’ve also got great ideas for countryside 14 Chalk up some walks! *additional charges apply walks too. We hope you will enjoy the magazine and perhaps you’ll even be inspired to get involved in helping 16 A taste of Tring conserve and enhance the Chilterns. Tel: 01494 672919 Operated by The Roland Callingham Foundation (TRCF). Charity No. 1164475. 18 The Chilterns cornucopia of culture Web: www.bekonscot.co.uk Address: Warwick Road, , , HP9 2PL. Email: [email protected] All profits go towards improving the village and grants to other charities www.chilternsaonb.org 19 Everything you need to know The Chilterns AONB website has a wealth of about ash dieback information on the area, including hundreds Working in partnership for of downloadable walks and cycling routes, an 20 interactive map highlighting places to visit the landscape and places to eat, a local events listing and lots of 21 Good news for Ratty THE UK’s NO.1 information on the special features of the Chilterns. FOREST ADVENTURE Chilterns Conservation Board: at Wendover Woods 90 Station Road, Chinnor, Oxon OX39 4HA Tel: 01844 355500 Victoria Pearce Editor Email: [email protected] www.chilternsaonb.org/conservation-board Design credit: Blooberry Design Ltd About the CCB The New Barn, Watcombe Manor, Ingham Lane, Watlington, Oxfordshire OX49 5EB Outstanding Chilterns magazine is published annually by the Chilterns Conservation Board. Established in 2004, With special thanks to Fran Momen, the Board is a public body with two key purposes: Nicole Russell and Mary Tebje COMING SOON Main cover image: Ivinghoe Beacon To conserve and enhance the natural beauty (credit: Angela Nicholson) of the Chilterns AONB Advertising: Qwerty Advance Publications: To increase understanding and enjoyment of [email protected] the special qualities of the AONB goape.co.uk %OFF 0118 930 2222 Book at † quote WEOC8 PER PERSON* In fulfilling these purposes, the board also seeks or call 0845 519 3092 10 to foster social and economic well-being in local communities. It has 27 members drawn *Offer valid until 30 November 2018, excludes Saturdays, bank holidays, corporate events & purchase of gift vouchers. Discount code valid on Treetop Adventure only and must be entered at time of booking. Only valid at Wendover Woods. †Calls cost 7p per minute plus your phone company’s access charge. Participation and supervision ratios apply. from across the Chilterns and a staff team based in Chinnor. @chilternsaonb

2 3 Chief Officer’s letter CHIEF OFFICER’S LETTER

Welcome to the latest edition of ‘Outstanding Chilterns’ magazine. I hope you will find it a very inspiring read, whether you are familiar with the Chilterns or someone who is visiting for the first time. Photo: Angela Nicholson

The Chilterns is the most accessible protected landscape in Europe, offering residents and visitors alike a heady mix of beautiful views, amazing nature, vibrant market towns and open space in which to relax and take exercise. It’s amazing to think that 1.6 million people THE CHILTERNS ARE live within 8km of the Chilterns. Health and well-being is important to every one of us, and no matter whether you like to walk, run or cycle, VERY SPECIAL... or prefer to simply sit down in a tranquil spot and take in the fresh air, the Chilterns has much to offer. The Chilterns is worth protecting not just because the landscape is incredibly rare and special but because it offers accessible green space where people of all ages can recharge 60% 22 their batteries, and if they are so inclined, be active in ways that have of woodland known hillforts in the AONB is tangible health benefits. That’s why I am delighted that our Walking ancient woodland Festival has been such a great success, and I would encourage as many people as possible to take part in the next festival in September. There are guided walks for all abilities, covering a very wide range of interesting themes. x9 So for me, highlighting the value to society of the Chilterns for our 531 rare health and as a ’green lung’ more generally is a big priority, as well of important sites Opening July 2018 course as taking steps to preserve the special character of the Chilterns for wildlife chalk streams in the face of ever increasing development pressure. But that’s my view – you may have a similar or very different perspective on what is important. Whatever your thoughts may be, we’d really like to know. Raising money to provide care for local patients Care based around you 64 x3 This year we are reviewing and refreshing our management plan The Shepherd’s Hut Sites of Special National Nature which sets the priorities for the AONB over the next five years and Scientific interest Reserves Sunday 9 September 2018 Outdoor Day Nursery beyond. Please feel free to complete our Future of The Chilterns online survey at: 5, 9 or 18 mile sponsored Where children are unfolded, www.surveymonkey.co.uk/r/FutureOfTheChilterns walk along not moulded Lots of people have already done so, and we really appreciate this.

I was heartened recently by the Prime Minister’s comment that x3 113 Registered Charity Number: 1140386 she loves the Chilterns, and also by the Government’s commitment European- scheduled in their 25 year Environment Plan to review the protection of Areas of designated monuments • Located in Wendover Outstanding Natural Beauty. The Chilterns Conservation Board would Special Areas • For children aged 3–5 years certainly welcome enhanced planning powers, equivalent to those of of Conservation • Based on the Forest School ethos a National Park. In the face of immense development pressure, and of child-led learning given what is at stake here in the Chilterns, there would be significant Princes Risborough School • 80% of the time spent outdoors benefits to having an overarching strategic plan that sets the priorities 2149 94 Adult: £20, child (5 –16): £10 • Follows the EYFS framework for sustainable development within the Chilterns AONB. Of course it’s listed buildings conservation areas Under 5s free 01442 820740 not just planning decisions that make a big difference to conservation www.renniegrove.org/chilterns3peaks • Encourages fantastic social, academic and emotional development through and the general quality of life in the Chilterns. Local action can really craft, cultivation and skills based help too. I would encourage people to volunteer for one of the many Chilterns activities wonderful organisations carrying out work to enhance habitats, improve recreational access and raise public awareness. As I keep 3 Peaks Challenge For more information, please contact: saying, we are all guardians of the Chilterns! [email protected] Tel 07801 010049 Registered address: 38 Earl Howe Road, Holmer Green, Bucks HP15 6PX Best wishes, Sue Holden

4 5 Hillforts Project LiDAR After the introduction of aviation in the early Over 20 twentieth century, archaeologists noticed that, Special Events

even where there was nothing physically present Photo: John Morris in 2018 CHILTERN OPEN AIR MUSEUM on the ground, shapes in the fields below were visible. Traces of past activity disturbed soils SHEDDING LIGHT ON more than Explore enough to affect crops that grow in them. 30 rescued historic Ditches and pits hold more moisture, speeding buildings, including an plant growth, whilst crops over stone walls grow Iron Age roundhouse, poorly. Although the effect depends on the crop, 1940s prefab, blacksmith’s this meant that previously unknown John Waxman Photo: forge, Victorian earth HILLFORTS cottage, and a working farm nestled in 45 acres archaeological features could be identified, Hillforts have fascinated historians and archaeologists for centuries. of woods and parkland. Featured in Downton mapped and catalogued from the air without Abbey, Grantchester and Call the Midwife. Enduring and prominently situated, they stir the imagination through excavation. However, cannot Tea room, free parking and exciting the tantalising glimpse they give of our ancient past. be used to reveal the archaeology of urban or heavily wooded areas. This is where LiDAR events programme. comes in. Light Detection and Ranging (LiDAR) can be here are plenty of Chilterns only been locations for seasonal is expected to take place at five used to record and observe archaeology on the hillforts – fourteen in gatherings, much like later medieval priority sites. The project will surface of the ground that is otherwise obscured, Buckinghamshire and fairs or livestock exchanges, include the first aerial survey of T such as by forestation. LiDAR instruments record Oxfordshire and eight in Hertfordshire where dispersed communities the entire Chilterns AONB using Over 30 landscapes in three dimensions by use of a laser and Bedfordshire. And there could could meet for celebrations or state-of-the-art Light Detection rescued ranger. An airborne device sends out small pulses be even more waiting to be found. religious festivals. It would have and Ranging (LiDAR) technology. buildings of light at the rate of hundreds of thousands per to explore For example, an earthwork required considerable manpower We don’t know what results the second. They are reflected back from the objects enclosure recently discovered to construct and maintain the survey will produce, but we believe they strike and the distance is measured and in a woodland near Christmas enclosures, as well as effective it may reveal previously unknown recorded. When the millions of measurements Common in Oxfordshire may be organisation. Establishing a hillfort features hidden within are combined by computer, then a digital COAM is in an as-yet-unidentified hillfort. might well have been as much the landscape. Chalfont St Giles, three-dimensional image of the landscape is For event program visit www.coam.org.uk about expressing status through Bucks formed. From this image, objects can then be Origins control of labour resources as Chiltern Open Air Museum is a registered charity (no. 272381) digitally deleted, thus an entire forest can be and all proceeds go towards our valuable conservation work. The origins of hillforts lie in the about defending a position. It’s also How you can get involved removed, revealing the ground surface, and all late Bronze Age and the Iron Age, possible that a line of hillforts may To find out where the known the humps and bumps ancient people between about 1000 BC and the have marked a boundary between hillforts are within the Chilterns, left behind... arrival of the Romans in the first two tribal areas. That said, standing please refer to the centre century AD. Typically, their features on top of Ivinghoe Beacon it is page map. include earthwork ramparts hard not to simply assume that the Volunteers can participate in the and ditches, but their differences principle benefit of the elevated project. Please speak to the are intriguing too, with some on positon was early warning of an Hillforts Project Manager on open grassland and others in areas enemy’s approach. 01844 355525 or email which, now at least, are covered in [email protected] woodland and scrub. Despite the On the ground and in the air or [email protected] name, not all are on hills, as you Running for three and a half for more information. discover the minute you arrive years from 2018 and supported at Cholesbury. by the Heritage Lottery Fund, the We are continuing to fundraise Chilterns ‘Beacons of the Past’ for this project. If you would What where they used for? Project will encourage and inspire like to talk to us about making a Whilst the name ‘hillfort’ implies a people to find out more about donation, corporate sponsorship military purpose, it is likely that many the Chilterns’ Iron Age hillforts or days out, please contact of these locations may simply have and their prehistoric landscapes. Claire Readey on served as secure living spaces for Archaeologists Dr Wendy Morrison 01844 355506, or email large populations or else may have and Dr Ed Peveler have recently [email protected]. remained empty, except at times joined the Chilterns Conservation Photo: John Waxman when people living in the local area Board to lead the investigative work. required refuge. Still others may have Research and practical conservation Drs Wendy Morrison and Ed Peveler discuss the view from Pulpit Hill hillfort. Many of these Iron Age sites seem to have been selected for their The hillfort at Sharpenhoe Clappers, with its earthworks largely obscured by tree cover. With a majority of the AONB prominent locations which maximise visibility under vegetation, a LiDAR survey will enable sites like this to be seen in their full ancient glory. across the landscape.

6 7 RAF Centenary WINGS OVER THE CHILTERNS PhotosPhoto: Oxon

This year marks the 100th anniversary of the Royal Air Force, formed from the Royal Flying Corps and the Royal Naval Air Service in 1918. The Chilterns has a close association with the RAF. A number of places have a strong historic connection, and several bases remain operational today.

AF Halton is located on Harris, RAF Bomber codenamed ‘Hillside’. Here, Air The Chilterns the edge of the AONB, Command’s chief, lived at Ministry staff analysed aerial has a rich photographs of Germany and Rnear Wendover in ‘Springfields’ in nearby Great RAF heritage Buckinghamshire. The base sits Kingshill. created maps for use on bomber below Wendover Woods, on land Today replica World War II raids. Exhibitions in the cellars and formerly owned by the Rothschilds Spitfire and Hurricane fighter in the Ice House (where there is a family. It was used by the Royal Flying aircraft stand guard at the main wonderful recreation of the Air Corps during the First World War entrance. There is a newer Ministry Photographic Unit) now to train aircraft mechanics, so was underground bunker, built in the tell this secret history. Tiger Moth operated by Finest Hour Experiences already in existence at the time of the 1980s to provide a safe haven for The area has RAF’s formation. Today it is one of the operations in the event of a nuclear other links to the RAF too. Wycombe RAF during the second world war as a RAF’s largest bases, training both attack on the UK. The bunker is Air Park was formerly RAF Booker, top secret facility for interpreting aerial military and civilian personnel in a one of the most secret buildings and was used as a flying training photographs. Unarmed high speed wide range of specialist trades. in Britain and remains officially school during the second world reconnaissance aircraft flew dangerous The Trenchard Museum, (named in classified. As well as the main war, operating de Havilland Tiger missions over occupied Europe honour of ‘the father of the Royal administrative site, RAF High Moths (see main picture) and Miles from RAF Benson, an airfield located Air Force’) is located within the base Wycombe has a separate Officers’ Magisters. After the war it was used on the edge of the Chilterns near Photo: John Waxman Wallingford that remains operational and tells RAF Halton’s story. It is mess site and a domestic and by the University of London Air Waltham and Woodley, and also as reconnaissance material, and finally open to members of the public maintenance site. Squadron and Bomber Command (as a helicopter base) today. The reconnaissance photographs were a place for final assembly and flight by the American Red Cross. (on Tuesdays, by prior arrangement). testing of Spitfires produced locally The writer Roald Dahl was an The exhibition includes three aircraft As a major centre for furniture production, then transferred to (known then as RAF ) bydispersed manufacturers in RAF fighter ace who flew Gloster and a number of aero engines. High Wycombe also played a key role in the the Reading area. In 1944 No.529 Gladiators and then Hawker [See: trenchardmuseum.org.uk] for analysis. Intelligence staff from construction of the ‘Wooden Wonder’ – the Danesfield House would often spend squadron, equipped with autogyros, Hurricanes during the early years of RAF Halton has a grass airfield too, moved to the basefrom RAF Halton. World War II. Dahl’s RAF career where the Royal Air Force Gliding and , one of the RAF’s most their off duty evenings at the nearby Dog and Badger Pub. After the war In the spring of 1945, they features in the Museum’s ‘Solo Gallery’ Soaring Association is based. legendary wartime aircraft. re-equipped with the Hoverfly where there is a wooden reproduction In an area of beech woods at the house became the divisional headquarters of No.90 Group, RAF helicopter, giving RAF of the forward fuselage of the Gladiator Walter’s Ash is RAF High Wycombe Not very far from RAF High Communications Flight RAF before in which he was badly injured during – the home of Headquarters Air Wycombe lies Hughenden Manor. transferring to civil ownership in the He lived at ‘Gipsy House’ in Great Missenden, an emergency landing in the Egyptian Command (HAC). This location was This lovely National Trust property mid 1960s. Air frame components Buckinghamshire for 36 years. In the High Street desert in 1941. selected just before the outbreak of was once the home of Victorian were manufactured in the town In Cowleaze Wood, near World War II as suitable for a Prime Minister , by companies such as Dancer & there is now a Roald Dahl Museum and Story Stokenchurch, a small memorial marks well-disguised base for RAF Bomber but its important connection to the Hearne, E.Gomme, J.B. Heath and Centre aimed at youngsters from 6 to 12 years. the site where a 51 Squadron Halifax Command away from London. To RAF was, until quite recently, much Parker Knoll. Coincidentally, the man Signals, before being sold to a dairy bomber from a ‘1000 bomber’ raid on help camouflage the new base from less well known. In 2004 a volunteer behind the Mosquito – Sir Geoffrey Henley-on-Thames the distinction of Nuremburg, crashed on 31st March the air, as many trees were retained Room Guide overheard a gentleman de Havilland – was born at Magdala processing company in 1977. Very little trace now remains of being the first RAF station to host a 1944, killing all seven Canadian crew as possible and the military buildings telling his grandson about being House in nearby Terriers, where helicopter squadron. members. It serves as a poignant were made to resemble civilian stationed at Hughenden during the there is now a commemorative RAF Henley-on-Thames, a wartime grass airfield at the top of Crazies Hill, in Henley also has reminder of the sacrifice made by so structures such as a manor house and war. Subsequent research by the plaque on the wall. an RAF connection. The clubhouse many RAF personnel in the name a church. An underground bunker National Trust revealed many details To the South of High Wycombe, just outside the AONB boundary but alongside the Berkshire was requisitioned during the war of freedom. and a network of tunnels were also regarding Hughenden’s secret past. perched high on a plateau above the and was used initially as a Women’s provided. During the war, the base During the second world war the in leafy Medmenham, Loop. The site, now a business park and farmland, was used as a relief Auxillary Air Force Officers’ mess for Author: John Waxman was served by a small airstrip at Lacey property was requisitioned and is Danesfield House. Now a hotel RAF Medmenham, then to house a Green, and Lord Arthur ‘Bomber’ became an intelligence facility and spa, the house was used by the landing ground for training aircraft from the nearby RAF bases at White top secret unit working with aerial

8 9 Planning PLANNING DESIGNING TO PROTECT THIS FOR LIFE IN THE CHILTERNS

The Buildings Design Awards, run in partnership by the Chilterns Conservation SPECIAL LANDSCAPE , Colin Drake Hill Vineyard Photo: Hundreds Board and the Chiltern Society, champion great new designs that celebrate the distinctive character of buildings in the Chilterns.

A wide range of building projects are eligible: new builds, harmonising with the beautiful setting, using high quality extensions, restorations and renovations. Nominations can local materials and vernacular detailing. be houses, workplaces, public buildings, farm This biennial event is open to everyone associated buildings, bridges and more. Our most recent overall with a building project completed within the past 3 years, Photo: John Waxman winner is the superb new Winery at Hundreds Hill Vineyard so if you think your project is an exceptional example in the Stonor Valley. The design was commended by the of design, why not take a look at previous winners and The Chilterns AONB is a very special What can you do? judges for enhancing the site and locality, and completely the Chilterns Buildings Design Guide on our website? place, a unique and accessible natural We produce planning guidance and we would landscape on London’s doorstep. But encourage everyone – developers, planning officers and members of the public with concerns about development pressure is increasing, development proposals – to refer to this. Our Enter your bringing with it the threat of habitat guidance, interpreted and applied correctly, can help loss, more noise and a reduction in to reduce the chances of new development falling design here short of conserving and enhancing the AONB. bit.ly/buildings- recreational green space. We have a well-respected Chilterns Building Design Guide which explains what good design-awards by Responding to development proposals is an important development, respecting local vernacular styles, part of our work at the Chilterns Conservation Board. looks like. 1st March 2019 We comment on new infrastructure plans, local plans, Our latest publication is Position Statement: and the most significant planning applications. But unlike ‘Cumulative Impacts of Development on the National Parks our role is only advisory and we do not Chilterns AONB’. It covers how incremental changes make the final planning and infrastructure decisions. from many individual planning proposals could, cumulatively, result in the loss of the special qualities There is much to occupy us currently: of the AONB, and erode its natural beauty, tranquillity HS2 will cut through the and intactness. We explain how to assess changes centre of the Chilterns across local planning authority boundaries to protect these special qualities for the long term. Luton airport has We would advise architects commissioned to aspirations to grow to design new buildings in the AONB to first explore the same size as Gatwick the ‘art of the possible’ by studying winning entries Re-designing flightpaths in the annual Chilterns Building Design Awards for Heathrow’s third (see article on page 11 opposite). After all, an area could see more of outstanding natural beauty deserves outstanding aircraft flying over design solutions. currently tranquil areas DISCOVER THE STORIES of the AONB Learn more on planning in the AONB at BEHIND THE TORIE The electrification of the Great Western Railway has www.chilternsaonb.org/conservation-board/ S S AND LET YOUR IMAGINATION brought unsightly and intrusive overhead gantries to planning-development.html the Goring area RUN WILD Up to one million new homes along the Oxford – SHOP | TOUR | TASTE Cambridge corridor by 2050, along with new road and rail infrastructure, could be constructed in the HP16 0AL | 01494 892192 setting of the AONB roalddahl.com/museum Our 13 local authorities are under great pressure to meet housing needs with the risk that local plans Don’t miss Wycombe Road, Prestwood, HP16 0HW prioritise housing above everything else. James’s Peachy Summer Photo: John Waxman 21 July to 2 September maltthebrewery.co.uk

MTB Ad 5.indd 1 15/03/2018 17:57 10 11 F Chilterns AONB Map KEY N J Church of St Peter and Paul, Tring KEY Selected Hillforts Hitchin Active RAF Bases

Selected Hillforts MAP E Former RAF Bases Leighton Buzzard

Dunstable Active RAF Bases River Chess THE CHILTERNS AONB Luton River Thames Former RAF Bases

N L River Chess Photo: Angela Nicholson Harpenden River Thames Danesfield House Aylesbury TRING

HILLFORTS Wendover G B A Medmenham Camp Hemel Hempstead B Cholesbury Camp Thame M C Desborough Castle B D Seven Ways Plain Princes Risborough N E Waulud’s Bank O Chesham 0 5 10 20  RIVE F Wilbury Hill A R C Kilometers H Photo: John Waxman G Boddington Camp  S E Amersham S H Bozedown Camp N S I Bulstrode Camp R Roald Dahl Museum J Sharpenhoe Clappers E 10 Watford 5 KT 9 Chorleywood K West Wycombe Camp IL L Ivinghoe Beacon H C M Pulpit Hill  C High Wycombe E 4 Wallingford H Gerrards Cross RAF BASES T I KEY 1 RAF Benson Marlow 2 RAF Halton D

A  Selected Hillforts

3 RAF High Wycombe (HAC) KEY

R  Active RAF Bases

Photo: John Waxman 4 Wycombe Air Park I V Selected Hillforts (formerly RAF Booker) Henley-on-Thames  Former RAF Bases E Hughenden Manor 5 Cowleaze Wood (memorial) R Maidenhead Slough N Active RAF Bases River Chess 6 Danesfield House T H (formerly RAF Danesfield) H Former RAF Bases A River Thames N 7 Great Missenden M River Chess (Roald Dahl Museum) ES 8 Upper Culham Farm River Thames (formerly RAF Henley-on-Thames) Reading 9 Magdala House, Terriers (Geoffrey De Havilland birthplace) 10 Hughenden Manor 0 5 10 20 Kilometers 11 Phyllis Court, Henley-on-Thames 0 5 10 20 Kilometers 0 5 10 20 Photo: John Waxman Kilometers Boddington Camp Hillfort Phyllis Court River Chess Wycombe Air Park

1212 13 Photo: John Waxman Photo: John Waxman Photo: Allen Beechey Photo: John Waxman Walking Festival

CHALK MAKING THE MOST OF THE UP SOME WALKS! WALKING FESTIVAL Every spring and autumn during our Walking It’s simple to join in – start by reviewing Festival, a willing team of knowledgable and the event programme online at: enthusiastic walk leaders volunteer to guide www.visitchilterns.co.uk/walkingfest people around some of their favourite All the walks are listed in date order, with details of

CHILTERNS LOCATIONS. location, timings, and level of difficulty, including details Photo: Jim Conboy about accessibility for the disabled, and suitability for children and dogs. Most walks are free of charge, but for some there is a small fee payable. Select the walk CHILTERNS AONB Photo: John Morris and book your place; there is no limit to how many you or 15 days, a packed event led by volunteer John Glover, which Walks galore can enjoy. VOLUNTEER programme covers entertaining follows part of the ancient Ridgeway For those not able to visit during the …and year-round Chilterns trails… and informative walks which north of Tring and covers six miles in CHECKLIST F Walking Festival, do remember that might explore scenic landmarks, around three hours. This section of the the Chilterns Conservation Board has Chilterns Conservation Board has a permanent collection heritage crafts or local customs. No Ridgeway forms an elevated white path, a permanent collection of self-guided of walks and trails available on its website at Do you care deeply about matter where you are based in the carved out of the grassy chalk ridge walks and trails available on its website. www.chilternsaonb.org Chilterns, there will be walks happening along the edge of Pitstone Hill, and Search the interactive map to locate our treasured landscape? in the vicinity, as well as chances to offers views of Aylesbury Vale far below. Discover Chiltern Young Walkers at: walks across the Chilterns and print Could you spare a few hours venture into pastures new. Assisted With John’s help visitors will discover information leaflets provided to www.chilterns2030s.org.uk to support us? by the walk leaders, you can find out the earthworks tracing the existence of guide you. more about wild bees, bluebells, trees the fort and may even spot pieces of and Chiltern Weekend Walkers at: and meadows, follies, famous people flint, which still litter the grass. To discover more about the Walking www.chilternsww.co.uk 4 – 6 hours per month? and folklore. For a real treat why not Festival and year-round Chilterns If you are drawn particularly to the Explore the Chiltern Society at: combine fitness with reward and trails, have a look at the information We are looking for enthusiastic hillforts, you might like to explore www.chilternsociety.org.uk sample local scones, a pub supper box opposite. If you’d like to explore individuals to become volunteer The Iron Age Fort Walk at Cholesbury, or craft beer? walking as a regular hobby, Chilterns ambassadors. You’ll promote events located half way between Tring and AONB partners local clubs and societies in your area by displaying posters, The festival is currently funded Chesham. The fort consists of a large that also organise hikes around the distributing leaflets and mustering by the Leader Programme and by ditch with ramparts crowned by beech Chilterns. The Ramblers Association local support. our sponsors: Compete Outdoors, trees. It is one of only two in the county has two local clubs: Chiltern Young 4 – 6 hours per week? Brakspear, Inghams and the Chiltern visit facebook.com/ Society. It’s thanks to this generous If you are drawn particularly to the Hillforts, you might If you’re an experienced walk-leader, support that we can offer the festival like to explore The Iron Age Fort Walk at Cholesbury, ChilternsWalkingFestival here’s your opportunity to play a largely free of charge to the public. for regular updates crucial role in the Walking Festival! located half way between Tring and Chesham. We’re looking for volunteer leaders for Step back to the Iron Age and information about September as well as the Spring Walkers and Chiltern Weekend Walkers, With funding now in place for our within which is situated a church. The & Autumn festivals in 2019. which between them cater for all ages. upcoming walks and Hillforts project, we are taking extra area is rich in wildlife including muntjac the Chiltern Society is another charity activities steps to make visitors aware of these deer, woodpeckers and barn owls. Flexible hours based at we work alongside which produces a amazing historical finds – located Whether you choose the longer 5 mile our Chinnor Office? quarterly magazine describing walks literally right under our feet! So this circuit or the shorter 2.5 mile walk, We’re also looking for administrative across the Chilterns, amongst many year’s Walking Festival includes a a warm welcome awaits you in the support including contact other local activities. Chilterns AONB number of trails that focus on Iron 17th century pub, The Full Moon, management, updating our website, thrives on the support of volunteers Age Hillforts. Led by our guides, you back in Cholesbury. social media work and blogging. If and encourages those interested to can walk in the footsteps of Iron Age you’re handy with a camera we’d get involved. There are lots of ways people who inhabited this area and also love to hear from you. you can support us, whether you have learn to interpret the prehistoric lumps limited time or wish to offer a bit more and bumps visible along the ancient help. Do take a look at the Volunteer Contact [email protected] drover trails, which make the Chilterns Box adjacent to discover the sorts of for more information. landscape so unique. One such trail is opportunities available. the Pitstone Hill Archaeological Walk Photo: Jim Conboy

1414 15 Photo: Annette Venters Visit the Chilterns

Tring Brewery is another independent brewer offering the The mighty Ashridge Estate, with its ancient trees in biggest selection of locally brewed cask, keg and bottled beautiful woodlands, is within easy reach of the town, and beer. A proud small business within the Chilterns community, popular with walkers on the Drovers Trails from the town and the brewery offers very popular tastings and tours from team railway station, that lead up into the forest and on to members, who provide complimentary samples of a wide Ivinghoe Beacon. A TASTE OF range of styles and strengths to try before you buy. Surrounding the town are many reservoirs that attract large numbers of breeding and migratory birds, making the waterways a valuable wildlife habitat. College Lake Nature Reserve is one of Tring’s best kept secrets. This former chalk TRING quarry has been repurposed into a birdwatching reserve – popular with visitors and the migratory birds that can be spotted from the many hides that are dotted around the lake. During the summer months orchids and wildflowers grow on the chalky banks. Photo: Mary Tebje Photo: Angela Nicholson For further information: VisitTring.co.uk and for Chilterns days out VisitChilterns.co.uk Read the Tring Tiles and other Chilterns stories on the Chilterns blog by Mary Tebje: marytebje.com/a-year-in-the-chilterns/ Photo: Visit Chilterns

Although situated deep in the Chilterns countryside, Tring has always been linked to London: by the Roman Akeman Street, the and railway into Euston station. But perhaps its most timeless connection is with the Rothschild family, who have forever left their legacy imprinted on this pretty town.

ypical of a Chilterns market town, it is First recorded in the Doomsday Book in 1089, the surrounded by features that make the region lovely church of St Peter and Paul on the high street Tso unique – chalk grassland, undulating is open every day. Visitors can learn about the fields, ancient woodland and important wildlife building’s architecture, the medieval Tring Tiles habitats. Tring Park, a ten-minute walk from the high that are now displayed in the British Museum, the street, is one such place. Landscaped by Victorian Gore Memorial, and also a connection with Charles Bridgeman in the late 17th and early 18th George Washington. Once known as a busy centre centuries, the extensive parkland includes a stretch for straw making and apple orchards, in 2015 of the Ridgeway National Trail which passes through Tring celebrated its 700th year as a market town. a handsome avenue of lime trees known as King The Friday Charter market still trades in the same Charles Ride. Once grazed by wallabies introduced place on the high street. The high street is full of PUDDINGSTONE DISTILLERY by the Rothschilds, there are beautiful views from independent shops including a traditional butcher’s, Distillers of Hertfordshire’s award winning Campfire Gin here of the town and surrounding countryside as far bakeries, delicatessens, pubs and coffee shops as Ivinghoe Beacon. popular with cyclists and walkers as they pause on Tring Natural History Museum was built in 1889 their Chilterns’ routes. to house the vast private collections of Walter A growing number of restaurants take pride in Rothschild, a keen zoologist and eccentric. When serving locally sourced and produced food and drink. he died, the building and collections were gifted to One such local producer is Puddingstone Distillery the nation, and are now part of the Natural History which has captured a sense of place with a gin Museum London. Much of the interior retains its distillery located in the nearby hamlet of Willstone. original charm with collections presented as the very popular with locals, their expanding range can Victorians would have known and enjoyed, including be tasted at the distillery shop that is open Fridays VISIT THE DISTILLERY & SHOP P E Mead & Sons Farm Shop site the museum’s infamous collection of stuffed dogs and Saturdays where Campfire Gin and seasonal Open Fridays and Saturdays Wilstone, Tring, Herts HP23 4NT 9.30am – 5.00pm www.puddingstonedistillery.com and circus fleas. specials can be tried and purchased.

1616 17 News THE CHILTERNS CORNUCOPIA OF CULTURE EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT The Chilterns Arts Festival – held for the first time in February 2018 ASH DIEBACK – celebrates the diversity of arts across the region through a rich and The fungal threat ambitious programme of music, art and literature. Nicole Russell talked Photo: John Morris to founder and Creative Director Naomi Taylor about this exciting new irst confirmed in Britain in 2012, ash dieback venture and its strong focus on local participation. is caused by a wind dispersed fungus called FHymenoscyphus fraxineus. In the last couple of SO WHAT CAN YOU DO? years this disease – widely known as ‘Chalara’ – has Why did you decide to create a new festival in the Our Discovery Days, which pioneered this year with become noticeable in woods across the Chilterns, Don’t panic – get advice if you think you Chilterns and what is its main aim? a Music of WW1 Discovery Day are designed as especially in young ash saplings. Symptoms include have ash dieback. leaf loss, wilted/shrivelled up leaves in mid to late When I moved to Berkhamsted a couple of years ago, Family Days, with events and activities for all ages, Be patient – there’s no rush to do anything summer, crown dieback and bark lesions, plus I knew I wanted to start some sort of festival that would encouraging adults and children alike to explore unless it is dead, dying or dangerous and in a discoloured brown younger shoots. Sadly, once a allow me to exercise my creative side. Initially I thought I’d the context around certain kinds of music. high risk location. tree is infected the disease is usually fatal: either start small and go for a weekend of events in and around What are the future plans for the festival? directly, or indirectly by weakening the tree so other Assess the risk – are ash trees near roads Berkhamsted itself, but as I started to explore the Chilterns, fungi attack it too. or buildings? If yes their health should be I discovered all of these beautiful towns and villages The festival itself next year is in its early planning stages, but I can say that we have some fantastic events on the monitored. with their gorgeous churches, and I decided I’d aim for The importance of ash something a bit more ambitious! I spoke to Christopher cards… so watch this space and join our mailing list to stay Never move ash leaves from an infected area. Ash (Fraxinus excelsior), is a very important native Glynn, our Artistic Partner, informed. Our launch weekend – when we announce broadleaved tree in the Chilterns AONB. It is Consider sale of ash firewood and timber as at a very early stage, and the full programme, and tickets go on sale – is the last especially numerous in fields, hedges and around part of planned management. “I understand that I was delighted when he weekend in September. We will be announcing the the villages, where its loss to disease will be most the wide range of agreed to help me plan programme for that very soon. Don’t plant any more ash, but do think obvious and where it will be harder to replace. Ash the artistic programme. of planting suitable replacements, again performance spaces And finally, where is your favourite place in has also become a more important woodland tree Our aim here was to bring get advice. the Chilterns? on some soils such as the chalk scarp, where it has across the region some of the big names Gosh what a difficult question! Busy, beautiful Marlow is replaced beech. Many Chiltern woods were Plant a mixture of alternative species attracted people to parts in classical music out of high on my list… and lovely sleepy Great Missenden too. restocked with ash following storm damage in 1987 e.g. small leaved lime, rowan, wild cherry, the capital and into the of the Chilterns they may But one memory that will stay with me for a very long and 1990. Ash regenerates and coppices freely, walnut, oak, yew. Chilterns, giving people time is the day I discovered Holy Trinity Church in Penn provided that browsing animals such as deer are have previously been access to world class art Manage existing woods to favour species Street. That beautiful little church with its imposing spire, kept off the young trees. unfamiliar with.” without the trouble of other than ash when thinning. nestled on the edge of the woods… there’s something a journey into London. Natural resistance Work with existing ash natural regeneration pretty special about it! and hope that genetic diversity means that It’s been wonderful to hear people say that they’ve There is likely to be some genetic variation, so the For more information about the Chiltern Arts Festival some trees are immune or recover from discovered new parts of the Chilterns – as indeed have I in hope is that not all ash will succumb to Chalara. visit: https://chilternarts.com/festival and follow them this fungus. creating the Festival! Over the next year we hope to develop The ash is prolific in seeding, so if some trees on Twitter @chilternarts and on Facebook survive and the disease dissipates over time, it the partnerships with local businesses and attractions we’ve Control deer numbers to reduce the amount @chilternartsfestival initiated this year in order to give people more reasons to should eventually recover as a species. But this may of browsing of seedlings and saplings. explore an area around a venue. take hundreds of years. Scientists are studying the genetic factors which make resistance possible so Control of pests, such as grey squirrels, In what ways are you encouraging young people to that tolerant ash trees can be bred for the future. will be even more necessary in future so become involved? that other native trees such as oak, beech, hornbeam, maples, birches, hazel have We launched our young artist platform scheme, which gave a chance to develop. young professional ensembles the opportunity to compete Please remember that if you want to fell ash for a performance in the Festival. We plan to continue trees you may need to get a licence from the Forestry Commission, or consent from the developing this scheme for young professionals, but If you are concerned about ash in a woodland District Council if the trees are covered by a also to open it to younger ensembles, encouraging or want to consider planting trees in hedges etc Tree Preservation Order (TPO) or are in a village children and young people to take part in different contact John Morris at the Chiltern Woodlands Conservation Area. parts of the competition. Project for advice and assistance. This year the opera company, who presented one of The Forestry Commission has identified human Email: [email protected] activity as a key factor in the spread of some Mozart’s early operas at the fantastic new facility at Pipers The latest information and advice on various tree diseases. The simple biosecurity actions set out Corner School, also ran workshops and open rehearsals for pests and diseases is on the Forestry Commission on the Commission’s Keep it Clean pages can the students at the school. website: www.forestry.gov.uk/pestsanddiseases help reduce the spread of pests and diseases generally: www.forestry.gov.uk/forestry/ For more information on Chalara see BEEH-A6THMS www.forestry.gov.uk/chalara Virtuoso: violinist Tasmin Little delighted 18 the audience at Great Missenden 19 News

WORKING IN PARTNERSHIP FOR THE TRIBUTE TO ROSS OSBORN 29th May 1942 – 19th March 2018 Photo: Delphine Gimat Ross was a passionate advocate for the Chilterns and an active volunteer with the Chilterns Conservation Board and Chiltern Woodlands Project over many years. LANDSCAPE Ross first got involved with a project to record special trees and woods of the Chilterns. He went on to join the Chilterns Commons Network and became one of the driving forces behind the creation of the Chilterns Commons Project. He was also involved with many projects to improve access, most Landscape Partnership Schemes are Heritage Lottery Fund (HLF) initiatives supporting recently leading the way on an initiative to record lost rights of way.

heritage, people and communities in a defined landscape character area. Each scheme To say that Ross was a long-term volunteer is true – but does not fully is made up of a number of individual projects, often grouped under themes. capture his contribution. The truth is Ross cajoled, inspired and made us laugh in equal measure to get things done. He will be sadly missed.

halk, Cherries and Chairs is The partners have created a plan to an exciting new Landscape encourage people to get involved CPartnership Scheme currently with protecting the Chilterns, increase being developed by the Chilterns volunteering and promote the Conservation Board together with investigation and celebration of over 30 local groups and organisations local heritage. A major injection of including Bucks, Berks and Beds Wildlife conservation effort will leave a legacy of: Trust, Bucks New University, Chalk better connected, managed and more Streams Partnership, Chiltern Rangers, resilient wildlife habitats; land managers GOOD NEWS FOR Chiltern Society, the National Trust, and and volunteers will have the skills and RATTY Wycombe Museum. The name of the understanding to care for a changing King Photo: Stuart A recent survey has revealed that one of Britain’s rarest mammals – the scheme reflects the landscape, land use landscape; people will discover and and industrial heritage of the Chilterns. water vole – is thriving in the Chess Valley. A significant number have The scheme will focus on the The HLF has awarded a development grant of been found along the River Chess between Chesham and Chorleywood. ancient wooded and farmed landscapes of the Central Chilterns, most of £185,600, enabling the production of detailed The survey, organised by the River Chess Association with Unfortunately, the 2013 survey revealed that the which lie within the Chilterns Area plans that will be submitted in summer 2018 with support from the Chilterns Chalk Streams Project (CCSP), is population had declined once again as mink returned to of Outstanding Natural Beauty. It the ninth to have been carried out on the River Chess since the catchment. By 2015 the population was just 36% of covers 264 km2, following the Rivers the aim of obtaining a full grant of £2.18m. 2001. The water vole (Arvicola terrestris), familiar to many its 2011 size. Following these disappointing results, the Wye and Misbourne, and will link the as the character ‘Ratty’ in Kenneth Grahame’s classic book mink control scheme was overhauled and enhancement towns of High Wycombe, Wendover, map ancient track ways and walk in the ‘Wind in the Willows’, is sadly now the UK’s fastest declining works were carried out to link sections of good water vole Amersham, Chalfont St Giles and Princes footsteps of those that used them; a mammal. It vanished from the majority of its native ranges habitat together. Last year, volunteers from the River Chess Risborough. There will be three themes strengthened partnership will ensure the in the last century, and where it has managed to retain a Association supported by the CCSP and BBOWT undertook made up of many projects to deliver legacy lasts. As well as running a survey, foothold, its numbers have reduced by 30% in the ten years the latest survey of the river which revealed the exciting news long-lasting benefits. the project team held a series of public from 2006 to 2015. The dramatic decline has been driven that the decline in the water vole population had been halted meetings to raise awareness of the primarily by fragmentation and loss of habitat, pollution and numbers had increased significantly. projects and talk to local people to gain of waterways, the widespread use of rodenticides, and The population is now at 64% of the 2001 population. input and feedback. predation by North American mink, a non-native species Allen Beechey, the CCSP Project Officer said: “The Chess The scheme aims to: Inspiring local people to participate in introduced to the UK though the fur trade. population is the last remaining in the AONB and so to see projects and feel more connected to the Until relatively recently water voles were a common sight that it is bouncing back is great news and is testament to Photo: Tracey Adams Photo: Tracey restore, enhance and record area will certainly be key to the scheme’s along many of the Chilterns rivers, the lush vegetated margins, the hard work and support of the RCA, its volunteers and wildlife habitats, landscape success. Participation can take many If you would like to be involved, please soft, earth banks and stable, clean waters historically providing of course, the landowners, without whose help this project features and cultural heritage forms – for example, the creation and contact Claire Readey, Development the voles with an ideal home. Today only two rivers support would not be possible.” of the Central Chilterns; maintenance of community orchards, and Funding Manager, on 01844 water voles but even these populations are under threat. create new opportunities for celebrating the landscape through 355506, or by emailing One of the two rivers that remain a key stronghold in people to investigate and artistic and cultural activities, or [email protected] the Chilterns is the Chess. When the river was surveyed by celebrate the cultural and systematically recording local heritage the CCSP in 2001, there was a healthy population. However, You can sign-up to the Chilterns natural heritage of the Chilterns, or wildlife to assist conservation efforts. a repeat survey just two years later revealed that numbers Conservation Board e-newsletter by inspiring a wider range of people Anything indeed that can encourage had crashed by 97%. In 2004, a water vole recovery scheme emailing [email protected] to become stewards for their future positive management. which included an integrated programme of mink control, local heritage; and An additional £605,000 in match habitat restoration and biennial surveys, was launched to try strengthen the capacity of local funding will be secured to deliver to reverse the situation. The scheme, run by a partnership communities to take action the project. We are currently seeking which included landowners, the CCSP, the Berkshire, for their local landscapes corporate sponsors. Buckinghamshire, & Oxfordshire Wildlife Trust and more and heritage recently the River Chess Association, began to turn the Young water vole photographed at Latimer situation around and by 2011 the population had returned to 25th May 2017. Photo Allen Beechey levels not seen since 2001. 20 21 Local charity on the Your search for dog – lovers in Buckinghamshire FOOD WASTE Hearing Dogs for Deaf People is recycled into trains clever dogs to alert deaf people to household sounds and danger signals such as the ENERGY doorbell, telephone and smoke alarm – providing life – changing independence and confidence. The charity to power our homes provides a national service and has placed more than 1750 dogs since its inception in 1982. No charge is made to recipients. www.recycle4bucks.co.uk/food Hearing Dogs for Deaf People is actively recruiting dog lovers who would like to take care of their adorable puppies and dogs in Buckinghamshire. Local Volunteer Take a walk in the Chilterns Puppy Trainers Peter and Sharon Shepperd, say: Countryside “Volunteering for Hearing Dogs will help create life CCB-apple 16th lscape v2.indd 1 19/03/2018 08:58:17 changing partnerships for deaf people and it will change From the chalk grassland of Coombe Hill, to your life too. It’s certainly changed ours and we now the vast woodland estate at Bradenham, the can’t imagine a life without these wonderful dogs. National Trust cares for sites throughout the We are so privileged to be Hearing Dog Volunteers.” Chilterns. Visit the Chilterns Countryside website to discover a whole host of walks to To find out more about volunteer opportunities, download. Whether a gentle stroll or an please contact the volunteering team: volunteer@ invigorating hike, you'll find great views hearingdogs.org.uk, 01844 348122 or visit along the way. www.hearingdogs.org.uk/volunteer Call 01494 755573 for details #nationaltrust Hearing Dogs for Deaf People, The Grange, nationaltrust.org.uk/chilterns-countryside Wycombe Road, Saunderton, Princes Risborough, © National Trust 2018. The National Trust is an independent Buckinghamshire, HP27 9NS registered charity, number 205846. Photography © National Trust Images\Hugh Mothersole.

A series of circular walks at a selection of Download Brakspear’s country pubs. The perfect excuse your free to enjoy some fresh air, a gentle walk and a map or call into any guaranteed pint at the end. Book a table and participating enjoy a bite to eat too. pub!

86 FINE MEETINGS & CHRISTMAS BEDROOMS DINING CONFERENCES PARTIES

AFTERNOON SPECIAL LEISURE WEDDINGS & TEA OCCASIONS FACILITIES CELEBRATIONS Download the App Download the free ViewRanger app from the Apple App Store or Google Play, then visit www.viewranger.com/brakspear to COW LANE, TRING, HERTFORDSHIRE HP23 5QY 01442 891 891 | [email protected] | WWW.PENDLEY-MANOR.CO.UK find the full collection of walks.

22 23 Closer than you think

Hidden amongst the Chilterns and surrounding countryside are an array of National Trust places with unique quirks for you to escape the hustle and bustle of the towns. From a grand eighteenth-century house at Claydon to the rural Boarstall Duck Decoy, the monumental gardens at Stowe to the years of justice served at Long Crendon Courthouse and a treasure trove of books to discover at Buckingham Chantry Chapel.

places to escape When you visit, donate or join the National Trust, your support helps us look after special places forever, for everyone.

nationaltrust.org.uk 01280 817156 National Trust registered charity no: 205846 Photography: © National Trust Images /John Dobson, Chris Lacey, John Millar and Arnhel de Serra

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