Main Heading

Henley Conservation Area Character Appraisal

The conservation area character appraisal - this sets the context for the proposals contained in Part 2. Part 1 was adopted by Council in September and is included for information only.

September 2004

Henley Conservation Area Character Appraisal

The Council first published the Henley Conservation Area Character Appraisal in draft form in July 2004. Following a period of public consultation, rd including a public meeting held on 3 August 2004, the Council approved nd the Character Appraisal on 2 September 2004. Prepared by

The Conservation Studio 1 Querns Lane Cirencester Gloucestershire GL7 1RL

Tel: 01285 642428 Fax: 01285 642488 Email: theconservationstudio.co.uk

March 2004

Thanks to Henley Archaeological and Historical Group who commented in detail on the draft document.

Part 1 Contents

Executive summary ...... 1

Part 1 Conservation Area Appraisal

Chapter 1 Introduction ...... 2 Statutory background ...... 2 Planning background ...... 2

Chapter 2 Location ...... 2 Topography and setting ...... 2 Geology ...... 3

Chapter 3 History ...... 3 Archaeology ...... 3 The development of Henley ...... 3

Chapter 4 The character and appearance of the Henley Conservation Area ...... 6 General description ...... 6 Activity and uses ...... 7 Noise and quiet ...... 7 Townscape: morphology ...... 7 The effect of historical development on plan form ...... 9 Boundaries and building plots ...... 10 Trees, landscape and open spaces ...... 10 Views and vistas, including focal points ...... 11 Public realm audit ...... 11

Chapter 5 Character Areas ...... 13 Area 1: The Fair Mile and Northfield Road ...... 13 Area 2: The northeast: Marlow Road, the playing fields, riverside and Phyllis Court ...... 14 Area 3: The town centre: Bell Street, part of New Street, Hart Street, Market Place, Friday Street and Duke Street ...... 14 Area 4: The western edges: West Street, Gravel Hill, Kings Road, Hop Gardens and Friar Park ...... 17 Area 5: The riverside: Wharf Lane, part of New Street, ,Thames Side and part of Station Road ...... 18 Area 6: Edwardian suburbs: Greys Road, Albert Road, Greys Hill, Church Street, Norman Avenue, part of Duke Street and Queen Street ...... 19 Area 7: St Mark’s Road, St Mary’s Road, Vicarage Road and St Andrew’s Road ...... 20

HENLEY CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL i South District Council Chapter 6 The Buildings of the Henley Conservation Area ...... 20 Introduction ...... 20 Listed buildings ...... 21 Buildings of Townscape Merit ...... 23 Materials ...... 24 Building style and plan form ...... 26 Architectural details ...... 28 Shopfronts ...... 28

Part 2

Issues ...... 29 Conservation Area boundary review ...... 29 Negative features - sites, buildings and open spaces ...... 30 Pedestrian and traffic management ...... 30 New development ...... 31 Potential development sites ...... 31

Chapter 1 The future management of the Henley Conservation Area .32 Introduction ...... 32 Buildings of Townscape Merit ...... 32 Article 4 Directions ...... 32 The protection of trees ...... 33 Local Plan policies ...... 34

Chapter 2 Design Guidance for New Development ...... 34 Introduction ...... 34 The need for contextual design ...... 34 Urban grain ...... 34 Scale and density ...... 35 Height and massing ...... 36 Appearance, materials and detailing ...... 36 Boundary treatments ...... 37 Extensions to existing buildings ...... 37 Site specific recommendations: ...... 38 Market Place Mews ...... 38 Improvements to the public realm ...... 38

Chapter 3 Conclusions ...... 40 How residents and other property owners can help ...... 40 Supplementary Planning Guidance ...... 40 Further information ...... 40

ii HENLEY CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL South Oxfordshire District Council Executive summary owners about maintenance and alterations and includes guidance on Henley is an attractive market town new development. It will be subject to located on the banks of the River public consultation and put before the Thames, close to the Chiltern Hills. A Council for approval as Supplementary settlement was first established by Planning Guidance. This appraisal will Henry II in the late 12th century, when then be used by the Council when the principal features of the town were determining applications for change laid out. These include St Mary's within the conservation area. Church, Market Place, Hart Street and the long narrow gardens which stretch out from the backs of the buildings which now line these streets, referred to as "burgage plots". Although the bridge was rebuilt in the late 18th century, some late 12th century fabric still remains in the abutments facing the town.

The town developed as a port for exporting grain and other produce to London and by the 15th century Bell Street, New Street and Friday Street had been laid out. St Mary's Church was extended and new timber-framed Henley Thameside buildings were being built along the principal streets, some of which remain. Further expansion occurred in the 18th and 19th centuries, when the timber buildings were largely refronted in brick and new, prestigious houses built for the wealthy brewers and merchants who lived in the town.

Today, Henley is characterised by its medieval street plan, by the survival of its burgage plots, by the continuous terraces of listed buildings along its principal streets and by its attractive riverside setting. The annual Henley Regatta is a major event on the social calendar and , boating and other waterside activities remain an important part of Henley life.

This appraisal seeks to define what is special about the conservation area, including the identification of those features which make Henley unique. It also contains advice to property

HENLEY CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL 1 South Oxfordshire District Council Conservation Area and in government guidance including, Appraisal most importantly, Planning Policy Guidance (PPG) 15, Planning and the Historic Environment. Chapter 1 Introduction Planning background.

Statutory background. All local authorities have an approved Local Plan which sets out each The designation of areas (rather than Council's policies and which is used individual buildings) of special extensively for development control architectural or historic interest was purposes. These plans are almost first set out in the Civic Amenities Act permanently under review, as central 1967 and since then over 9,000 government guidance changes rapidly conservation areas have been and local economic and social designated in and Wales. conditions require adjustments to the More recent legislation has expanded Council's policies. The relevant on these early principles and Section document for the Henley Conservation 69 of the Planning (Listed Buildings Area is the South Oxfordshire Local and Conservation Areas) Act 1990 Plan adopted in 1997. obliges local planning authorities to determine which parts of their areas South Oxfordshire District Council has are of special architectural or historic 70 conservation areas and about 3,500 interest and to designate them as listed buildings. Policies which seek conservation areas. Section 72 of the their preservation and enhancement same Act also specifies that it is the are set out in the Local Plan in Section general duty of local planning 4 - The Historic Environment, authorities, in the exercise of their particularly on pages 42-62. planning functions, to pay special The advice on the control of attention to the desirability of conservation areas, including new preserving or enhancing the character development, provided in the Local or appearance of these conservation Plan is inevitably quite general. In Part areas. 2 of this appraisal can be found more Policies which aim to achieve this are detailed policy guidance which will be of interest to owners of buildings and sites within the Henley Conservation Area.

Chapter 2 Location

Topography and setting.

Henley is situated on the west bank of the , with the Chiltern Hills rising steeply to the east and further wooded hills surrounding the town to the north and west. The town New Street lies on ancient ridgeway routes across set out in each Council's Local Plan

2 HENLEY CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL South Oxfordshire District Council March 2004 these hills, where they crossed a impetus for early settlement. A late natural ford. Above Henley, the river is Saxon spearhead and an axe of Viking not easily navigable and this provided type have been found in the Thames. an impetus for development in the late medieval period as a riverside port, The development of Henley. particularly for the export of grain. Henley is notable as an example of a planned medieval town and for the Geology. survival of its burgage plots, which lie Henley lies close to the Chiltern Hills, to either side of the main streets. notable for their chalk which provides Thame, located a few miles to the lime and flint for building materials. To north-east, is another such town, laid the north around Oxford can be found a out by the Bishop of Lincoln, also in the honey-coloured limestone and also a late 12th century. There was a friable chalk/limestone stone called medieval manor at Phyllis Court, on the clunch, sometimes used for building. northern edges of the conservation Local clays, suitable for brick making, area, but there is no mention of a can be found in the river valleys and settlement before 1179 when it is these provided the raw material for the recorded that Henry II "had bought land brick and tile-making industries which in Henley for making buildings" . It has developed during the 18th and 19th been suggested that he created a new centuries. town and that the burgage plots which can still be plotted off Hart Street and the Market Place all date from this Chapter 3 History period. However, the discovery of the old bridge in 1984 showed that the Archaeology. bridge, alongside the present bridge on the south side, was dated to c.1170. The historic core of the town includes Since it was not aligned to any main medieval burgage plots, the Parish street it is assumed that the town pre- Church and the site of the Manor dated the bridge. Hart Street leads to House. A number of archaeological the church not the bridge. So the town excavations that have taken place and church may date from c.1130s. On within the historic core have confirmed the south side of the settlement, the the intensive occupation of burgage burgage plots terminate in a softly plots including frontage buildings and curving boundary which once marked typical backlands, during the 13th to the line of the town ditch, still shown as 15th centuries. Evidence from the such on early 20th century maps. redevelopment of Waitrose site also In 1199 King John granted to Robert produced the first evidence from Harcourt the manor of Benson and "the Henley town centre of a substantial town and manor of Henley". In 1205 Roman building. Activity in the Roman the town received a pavage grant and period is also reflected in isolated finds in 1234 a bridge over the Thames is of Roman coins. The prehistoric period first recorded. A market existed by is poorly represented by current 1269 although the first market charter evidence though stone, bronze and iron which survives is dated 1568. St Mary's weapons have all been found close to Church was originally a chapelry of Henley Bridge where in ancient times a Benson and is first mentioned in 1204 natural ford over the river provided an

HENLEY CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL 3 South Oxfordshire District Council in existence from 1269, was an important influence within the town, providing its local government, superseded by an elected Mayor, Bridgeman and Burgesses by early 14th century. In 1883 this system was replaced by an elected corporation.

Several buildings remain in Henley from this period: the White Hart Hotel, in Hart Street, with origins which go back to at least 1428; the Bull Inn in Bell Street, a timber-framed structure which probably dates to the 15th century with 17th century

Hart Street improvements; and the Red Lion although the standing fabric dates Hotel, on the corner of Hart Street and mainly to the 13th and the 15th Thameside, which mainly dates to the centuries. Its location, centrally 18th and 19th centuries but which positioned at the head of the main retains a much altered early 15th street, suggests that the church and the century wing attached to The Chantry town were established at much the House. Finally, the Rose and Crown in same time. the Market Place appears to date from c.1500. It closed in c.1785 and is now By the late 13th century it is probable much altered and occupied by Facy’s that the street pattern of the town was store. laid out as we see it today, with a wide market area which can still be seen in During the Civil War, the owner of the layout of the Market Place, Gravel Phyllis Court was Sir Bulstrode Hill and West Street. The road north to Whitelock, who lived at , a south through the town probably pre- prestigious house located slightly to the dates the town. New Street, which north of Phyllis Court, also facing the marks the northern boundary of the late river. This had been purchased by his 12th century burgage plots facing Hart father, Sir James Whitelock, in 1616. Street and Friday Street, to the Sir Bulstrode was a leading light in southern edges, is first mentioned in local politics, supporting the deeds of 1305. Roundheads whose soldiers were later garrisoned at Phyllis Court. Fawley Throughout the 14th and 15th centuries Court suffered at the hands of these Henley flourished as a market centre soldiers, but was rebuilt in the 1680s by being particularly important for the the new owner, Colonel William export of grain which was grown in the Freeman. In 1689 the house was Upper Thames valley and then moved visited by William and Mary of Orange on boats down the river to London. and during the 18th century the Other goods, including stone from gardens were landscaped by Capability further west, were also shipped from Brown. In 1771 James Wyatt designed Henley and there are records of an elegant classical temple on a small warehouses in the town during the 14th island downstream of the house, now century and later. The merchant guild, used as the starting point for the

4 HENLEY CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL South Oxfordshire District Council Henley Regatta races. Despite its rebuilt and extended. close proximity to Henley, Fawley Court In 1786 a new bridge over the Thames lies within the neighbouring county of was completed and at about this time Buckinghamshire. Middle Row, a group of cottages in the Phyllis Court was also damaged during middle of Hart Street, were demolished the war and was extensively rebuilt in to improve the highway. A new 1648. During the 18th century the workhouse (now part of Townlands house changed hands several times, Hospital) was provided in 1790, under one owner being the Bradshaw family. the supervision of William Bradshaw, a Alderman Bradshaw was responsible member of the family who owned for the demolition of the old Market Phyllis Court. Typically, this was built Place Guildhall and Gaol in 1795 and on the outskirts of the town, in what the building of a new Town Hall which was then open fields to the north of the he designed himself. During this period western end of the Market Place. Phyllis Court always remained an Brewing and malting became important element of Henley's social increasingly important and during the scene. In 1837 it was demolished early 19th century a number of local entirely and rebuilt to its present breweries were amalgamated into appearance. More recently, it has been Brakspear's Brewery in New Street, extended and is now used as a country which reached its zenith in the late 19th club, being particularly important during century by which time it had become the week of the Henley Regatta. Of the most important brewery in the town. special interest is the moat, of The coming of the railway in 1857 led uncertain date, now connected to the river and used for as a mooring for boats. This may be a reworked fragment of a medieval moat or it could be part of the Civil War defences of the house or even an 18th or 19th century landscape feature.

After the conflicts and uncertainties of the 17th century, the following two centuries brought periods of intense growth for Henley. The most important industries were brewing and the exporting of goods along the river to London. Hotels and inns were built to provide accommodation for the many travellers who used the coach services between Oxford and London and new Town Hall red brick buildings were built or the old to further expansion as a commuter timber-framed hostelries were refronted town, especially to the west and south and modernised. The Catherine Wheel of the town and a prestigious new in Hart Street and the former Bell Inn in Town Hall was built at the top of the Northfield End both have evidence of Market Place in 1900, replacing building from this period and the Red Bradshaw's 18th century building which Lion in Hart Street was extensively was demolished and reconstructed

HENLEY CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL 5 South Oxfordshire District Council elsewhere as a private house. on the east side of the road and towards Harpsden Road: Niagara Road, The commencement of the annual Boston Road, Marmion Road, Grange Regatta in 1839 added to Henley's Road and Park Road. attractions and by the end of the century the town was notable for its More recently, the building of the M4 many boathouses, rowing clubs and provided a fast route into London which hotels. This period of intense building led to the construction of new housing activity has left a very distinct mark on estates on the western and southern Henley and has provided the town with edges of the town in the 1960s and a number of prestigious buildings, such 1970s. as the Imperial Hotel in Station Street, Today, facilities for the Regatta and built in 1897. Henley also boasts a other boating events are always evident number of attractive Victorian buildings, along the river: the grandstand in the usually arranged in long terraces, such grounds of Phyllis Court, the various as Albert Road and Queen Street. In the rowing boats and pleasure boats which 1890s, the corporation also "improved" are moored along the riverside and the the town centre by demolishing some of many hotels, restaurants and public the buildings at the more narrow road houses throughout the town. On the junctions. Duke Street was widened in side of the river, facing 1870 when the whole west side was Henley, lies the Leander Rowing Club demolished and rebuilt. 1-7 Greys Road and the Regatta Clubhouse, adding to are the result of similar improvements the interest of the riverside. dating to 1896. They bear the notation: "Road Widening Corporation". There is constant pressure for new commercial development in the town, In the 1890s more houses were built particularly for shopping, which has to a beyond the railway station to the west degree been controlled by the side of Reading Road. St Mark's Road designation of a large conservation and St. Andrew's Road contain a area, covering the historic town centre, number of detached or semi-detached, large areas of the surrounding suburbs well-detailed, red brick houses. After and some of the fields to the north. 1900, more modest terraces were built

Chapter 4 The character and appearance of the Henley Conservation Area

General description.

Henley is notable for its riverside location, its many listed buildings, its medieval street layout and for the survival of the long narrow plots (the burgage plots) which stretch out from the main streets. These create a unique piece of medieval town planning although they are generally

Market Place only evident from private gardens

6 HENLEY CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL South Oxfordshire District Council behind the main street frontages. The more peaceful environment in the town Market Place and its continuation, Hart centre. The recently relandscaped Street, are dominated by St Mary's Market Place provides a focal point for Church at one end and the late relaxation with café and restaurant Victorian Town Hall at the other. The seating spilling out into the main open setting is also significant, with views space. This is always popular with out of the town being largely contained shoppers and visitors and is attractively by low wooded hills. laid out with trees and planting.

Bell Street and New Street, which form Activity and uses. part of the one-way system around the Henley's attractive and compact town northern part of the town, are centre is well served by a range of particularly busy with traffic as the upmarket shops and supermarkets. As riverside location has concentrated is usual in historic towns, commercial traffic flows into the town centre. To the uses and residential accommodation is south, Station Road lies on the edge of well integrated providing a high level of the conservation area and forms activity at all hours. The primary another loop which is somewhat shopping streets are Hart Street, the marred by 20th century development Market Place and the southern end of and road improvements. Duke Street is Bell Street, with more secondary probably the most congested street in shopping in the northern section of Bell Henley and this has had an impact on Street and Duke Street. Friday Street, the quality of the environment. The the southern side of the Market Place, close proximity of continuous traffic New Street, Northfield End and also intrudes upon the riverside walks. Thameside are mainly residential but Away from these busy main streets are interspersed with commercial uses areas of peace: St Mary's Churchyard, such as hotels, public houses and with its almshouses; the riverside offices. The principal residential streets walks along the towing path to the lie slightly further out from the town south of Thameside; the graveyard centre: the Edwardian suburbs to the and immediate environs of Holy Trinity west and south, the Friday Street area Church, off Greys Hill; and the fields and along The Fair Mile. and riverside walks to the north of Of great importance is the effect of the Phyllis Court. riverside setting and the various activities which are associated with the Townscape : morphology. Henley Regatta. Boating, walking and The morphology of the Henley rowing, at all times of the year, provide Conservation Area is very varied and Henley's waterside with a unique includes the heavily built-up town character and generate large numbers centre, the 19th century suburbs and a of visitors to the town. number of more open landscaped areas on the edges of the town. There Noise and quiet. are no architectural "set pieces", apart During the day, the principal streets in from a mid-19th century terrace of tall the town centre are somewhat blighted stuccoed houses in Thameside, facing by constant traffic noise, although they the river. are much quieter after the evening rush The historic core of Henley (Hart hour, when pedestrians can enjoy a

HENLEY CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL 7 South Oxfordshire District Council Street, Market Place, Friday Street, Bell be built from brick or are stuccoed, Street, New Street and Northfield End) often with more shallow pitched slate is defined by the rows of properties roofs. Most of these properties have which lie on the backs of the long, narrow gardens of medieval pavements, creating continuous origins but these are rarely visible terraces of mainly listed buildings. unless glimpsed through carriage ways These are varied in height, materials or small alleys, of which there are and detailing, with two or three storeys many, particularly in Hart Street. predominating. The character is Mature trees are found within some of generally domestic as the majority of these gardens, providing a sylvan the buildings were built as houses backdrop to the views across the town. although they have since been The town centre is also punctuated by converted into shops or offices. Many larger buildings in different uses of of these buildings date from the 16th or which St Mary's Church and the Town 17th centuries and are timber-framed. Hall are by far the most prominent. The Their scale is modest and they are complex of buildings comprising characterised by steeply pitched peg Brakspear's Brewery and its associated tiled roofs and substantial brick malthouse in New Street dominate this chimney stacks. There are also a part of the town centre. The brewery number of industrial buildings, buildings are currently being converted associated mainly with the brewing to a hotel and the malthouse has been industry, such as the late 18th century converted into offices. Facing the river, former malthouse to the rear of no. 16 the mainly 19th century buildings are Hart Street and the malthouse in the less intensively developed, with some car park between the Market Place and gardens and open space (Wharf Lane, Greys Road. Thameside) which relate to the water. Many of the former boathouses have been converted into houses and along Thameside, new housing development echoes the design and general form of these earlier examples.

New development along Thameside

Malthouse to rear of 16 Hart Street Away from the town centre, the scale reduces to mainly two storey houses Later buildings, of the 18th and 19th and cottages, largely still in long centuries, are more substantial, with terraces (West Street, Friday Street, taller floor-to-ceiling heights and larger, Greys Hill) with some Victorian terraces more spacious rooms. These tend to of note (Albert Road, Queen Street,

8 HENLEY CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL South Oxfordshire District Council Kings Road, Clarence Road, York Until the 18th century (Figure 1) Henley Road). More dispersed development, remained a small town, stretching from dating to the early 19th century and Northfield End in the north to the later, can be found along The Fair Mile, southern end of Duke Street. In 1751 notable for its large building plots and the then Lord of the Manor of Benson, rural setting. Thomas Stapleton, planted a long avenue of elm trees along The Fair Included within the conservation area, Mile, marking the entrance to the town but somewhat remote from it, Friar in a more prestigious way than the Park is surrounded by high fencing and former rutted track. Buildings along this trees so the late Victorian house which road date mainly to the early 19th sits within the site is not visible from century or later, but some are earlier: the public viewpoint. More accessible no. 23, a timber-framed building with a is the land to the north of Phyllis Court, stucco façade and no. 25, 18th century which is largely used as playing fields with a stucco front. and provides attractive views across the river from Remenham.

The effect of historical development on plan form.

It has been suggested that there may have been a small settlement south of Phyllis Court, the site of the medieval manor, but to date there is no firm evidence of this. What is better documented is the creation of a new settlement under the patronage of Henry II in the late 12th century. The layout of the principal streets dates from this period, i.e. Hart Street and the Market Place and the long narrow The Fair Mile burgage plots which lie to either side. During the later part of the 18th century This created a new settlement close to local prosperity meant that the town the ancient ford over the River Thames expanded rapidly with a new and on the line of existing trackways workhouse, town hall, malthouse, across the valleys leading to the breweries, grain warehouses and Chilterns. private houses, pushing the limits of New Street and Friday Street all appear development beyond the previous to have been laid out some two boundaries, which until this time had hundred years later as the township been fairly constrained within the limits grew. These four streets were to remain of the medieval settlement. the principal streets of Henley until Once the railway arrived in 1857 there pressure for new development in the was a further impetus to growth, which 17th century led to new timber-framed led to the development of many new buildings being erected along what is houses for workers and those travelling now Duke Street and Northfield End, to London. These were provided some of which remain although hidden slightly beyond the existing boundaries: behind later façades.

HENLEY CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL 9 South Oxfordshire District Council Boundaries and building plots.

Henley is notable for the survival of its late 12th century plan form and burgage plots. These long, narrow gardens which lie behind most of the properties which face Hart Street and the Market Place are a rare and valuable archaeological feature which must be preserved though in parts these have been substantially altered or lost. They also define the character of the conservation area as, although not readily visible from the public viewpoint, most of the houses in these Norman Avenue two streets still retain their early garden Grey's Hill, Grey's Road, West Street layout. From some vantage points, c. 1200 and along The Fair Mile. The railway such as the car park behind no.18 Hart terminated just to the south of the Street, the long parallel lines of flint town, so the construction of the new walls which mark these historic plots trackway and station was achieved can very clearly be seen. without any adverse effect on existing This form of development, or "urban buildings. grain", provides a distinctive townscape However the largest expansion of the which can best be appreciated from St town took place around 1900 when Mary's Church tower. From here, it can c. 1500 long terraces or groups of Victorian be seen how the medieval layout has and Edwardian houses were built produced a succession of buildings (Albert Road, Queen Street, York with long, parallel ridges at right angles Road, Clarence Road, King's Road and to the principal buildings along the Norman Avenue). Expansion to the street frontage. The line of these rear west was constrained by Friar Park extensions is then continued by the (1889) with its large gardens and park various boundary walls, driveways and and to the north by Phyllis Lodge and alleys which link the streets with the c. 1800 its lands, but between the 1880s and rear gardens. 1910 many of the fields which surrounded the town to the south and Trees, landscape and open west were developed. spaces.

More recently, new housing has been Trees make a major contribution to provided to the south and partly to the views out of the town and are also west of Henley, but to the north, the significant in town centre gardens, c. 1900 land has remained in agricultural use, where they can be glimpsed over the or as playing fields, so this part of roofs of buildings or through Henley still feels very rural. The river, carriageways or alleys. to the east, has also provided a natural The following groups of trees are of limit to expansion. special merit and are protected by Tree Preservation Orders, in addition to the statutory protection which is provided

10 HENLEY CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL South Oxfordshire District Council by conservation area status to all trees ● Views from Phyllis Court along the in a conservation area: river.

● Trees in Norman Avenue Focal buildings and structures include:

● Trees around the Church School in ● Henley Bridge Greys Hill ● St Mary's Church ● Trees in Friar Park ● The Red Lion Hotel, Hart ● Trees in the grounds of Phyllis Street/Thameside Court. ● Barclays Bank, no. 10 Hart Street ● Trees in Northfield End and to the ● The Town Hall south of The Fair Mile ● Friar Park lodge, Gravel Hill Other notable trees are marked on Townscape Appraisal map. Of special ● Imperial Hotel, Station Road importance are the group of mature ● Brakspear's Brewery buildings, New trees to the rear of no. 32 Bell St Street/The Old White Hart, Hart Street. ● Former malthouse, New St

Views and vistas, including focal ● Christ Church, Reading Road points. ● Phyllis Court (in views across the The most important views in Henley river from Remenham) are marked on the Townscape ● No. 11 Northfield End Appraisal maps. Of special note are: ● Holy Trinity Church, Greys Hill ● Views from The Fair Mile across ● the surrounding countryside The Angel Public House, Thameside ● Views down New Street to the river

● Views up Gravel Hill westwards

● Views from Henley across the River Thames to Remenham and the wooded hill beyond.

● Views from Remenham of the Henley river frontage.

● Views from Henley Bridge to the north and south and across to Remenham.

● Views along Hart Street and the Market Place, terminating in St Mary's Church and the Town Hall. Red Lion Hotel ● Views of Holy Trinity Church from Grey's Hill and Church Street Public realm audit.

● Views along Northfield End to The Street surfaces. Fair Mile and beyond. Henley is notable for the survival of a number of historic street surfaces,

HENLEY CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL 11 South Oxfordshire District Council although the majority of the pavements ● Stone pavement outside nos. 2-16 are covered with modern tarmacadam West Street (listed). or concrete paving in various forms. ● Brick paviors with granite kerbs, Examples of natural stone, clay blocks, from market Place to no. 36 Gravel granite setts and flint cobbles can all Hill (listed). be found and in several streets the setted carriageways remain, ● York stone flags in Wharf Lane. sometimes partially hidden by modern ● Flint cobbles in Church Avenue, materials (e.g. Large sandstone setts next to Brakspear's Brewery outside the Rose and Crown Public (listed). House, New Street; sandstone setts at ● Stone paving to courtyard behind entrance to no. 32 Bell Street). Many of no. 88 New Street (listed). the streets in the town centre also retain their granite or sandstone kerbs, ● Blue/black stable paviors with criss- with a gutter formed by two or three cross pattern, alley leading to nos. courses of granite setts (New Street, 32-38 New Street and in the yard to Bell Street, Hart Street) although some the back of no. 18 Hart Street. of these appear to be a modern ● York stone and flint cobbles outside reinstatement. Additionally, the Market nos. 92-102 Northfield End. Place was resurfaced in the 1990s ● and more comprehensively A strip of York stone paving outside relandscaped in 2002/2003, mainly nos. 1-9 Northfield End. using York stone. ● A completely cobbled courtyard

The most notable historic street using pink and grey sandstone and surfaces are the following: small blue clay stable paviors between nos. 71 and 73 Bell Street. ● York stone flags around St Mary's ● Church (listed). Red brick paviors at entrance to yard behind 11a Reading Road. ● York stone flags outside nos. 2-14 ● Market Place. Pink granite setts outside no. 38 Greys Hill. ● "Candy" yellow brick paviors (from ● Totnes in Devon) in West Street Sandstone setts outside the (listed). entrance to Holy Trinity Church, Church Street

● Large sandstone setts forming a gutter, with blue/black stone kerbs in Church Street

● Sandstone kerbs in St Marks Road and St Andrews Road

● Granite kerbs and sandstone setts, Bell Street

An interesting feature is provided by the stone slabs marking the Henley Heritage Trail, such as the one set into the pavement outside the Kenton Candy paviors in West Street Theatre, New Street.

12 HENLEY CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL South Oxfordshire District Council Street furniture.

There are varied examples of modern seating, street signs and litter bins throughout the conservation area, generally of a unified design, providing a welcome simplicity. Direction signs are modern but are similar to historic finger posts, usually using white letters on a black background. Generally the streets are remarkably untouched by "street clutter" and the absence of overhead wires and cabling is particularly noticeable in the town centre.

In the Market Place, a comprehensive Market Place repaving enhancement scheme completed in Chapter 5 2003 used cast iron bollards, painted Character Areas black, smooth sawn Yorkstone paving, Henley divides into a number of simple "heritage" benches with wooded character areas according to slatted seats and cast iron decorative topography, landscape, building type ends, granite setted crossovers and and period of development. green cast iron litter bins. These Unsurprisingly, the town centre is the materials and details provide an most intensively developed and also exemplary scheme which has set the contains the majority of the oldest standards for the rest of the town. buildings; on the edges, there is mostly late 19th century development Street lighting. with more dispersed layouts. Large There is a variety of street lighting in parts of the conservation area are Henley, all modern: composed of fields and parkland and ● Tall, cast iron "heritage" lamps the river also makes a major replicating gas lanterns (Market contribution. Place, Bell Street, Duke Street, Hart Street). Area 1 : The Fair Mile and Northfield Road. ● Similar "heritage" lamps fixed directly to the buildings (Market These two streets provide a stunning Place, Bell Street, Gravel Hill). entrance to the northern side of Henley from Wallingford. The Fair Mile was ● Tall, steel light standards with large improved in the early 1840s with the shades and glass lights in a "retro" addition of the elm avenue which has style (Station Road) now been replanted. The building plots ● Tall, steel light standards painted are particularly spacious and the white or grey with modern fitments setting, amongst fields and areas of (New Street, The Fair Mile, Hop woodland, is attractive. The wide grass Gardens, West Street). verges, large gardens, neat hedges and mainly paired or detached houses, set back along a common building line, create a unique townscape. The

HENLEY CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL 13 South Oxfordshire District Council buildings, many of which are listed, Area 2 : date to the 18th and early 19th The northeast : Marlow Road, the centuries, with terraces of late 19th playing fields, riverside and century cottages nearer the town. Phyllis Court. Occasionally, an earlier timber-framed Between Marlow Road and the river is building survives, hidden behind later a large green area used as playing refacings. A modern housing estate lies fields and as gardens to Phyllis Court. off the south side of the road but its Views along and over the river are impact on the conservation area is important although this area is not neutral. To the north of The Fair Mile, open to the public. The many mature representing the boundary to Henley trees add to the sylvan character. Park, is a substantial grade II listed Phyllis Court is a rather squat mid-19th brick and flint wall which is a century stuccoed villa, somewhat particularly notable feature in views altered and extended. The recently along the road. restored Edwardian grandstand, just on Northfield End is more intensively the river edge, is an important feature, developed, being nearer the town, with as is the surviving section of moat, now detached houses, again many of which connected to the river and used for are listed, in large gardens, close to mooring boats. the road. The road terminates in a village green surrounded by listed buildings at the northern end of Bell Street. Trees and private gardens contribute to a rural quality.

Phyllis Court and the grandstand Area 3 : The town centre : Bell Street, part of New Street, Hart Street, Market Place, Friday Street and Duke Street.

These streets form the historic centre of Henley and provide the most intensive concentration of listed buildings, largely arranged in terraces on the back of the pavement. Despite the variety of architectural styles and materials, this still provides a cohesive townscape, somewhat marred by the busy traffic. The soft curve of Bell The Fair Mile Street and the widening and narrowing of Market Place and Hart Street confirm the historic nature of the layout, with notable views of the listed buildings and the hills beyond.

14 HENLEY CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL South Oxfordshire District Council Many of these buildings retain their long, narrow burgage plots, defined by brick and flint walls, which are still used as gardens. Sometimes, such as to the rear of no. 18 Hart Street, these old boundaries have been removed and car parking inserted, much to the detriment of the environment. Modern development is generally confined to the area around the Waitrose Supermarket, where the burgage plots have also been removed to create car parking. This land has been excluded from the conservation area although it lies very close to the historic core of Longlands Almshouses the town. Similarly, Radnor Close, a Behind the church is a tranquil, 1980s group of houses, is excluded enclosed churchyard around which from the conservation area. The area cluster two rows of simple almshouses, to the rear of 23-31 Bell Street is initially endowed by the same John visually of poor quality. Longland, although the earliest The most important buildings are the almshouses were built on a site closer parish church of St Mary the Virgin, the to Longlands, which can still be seen in Town Hall, Brakspear's Brewery and Hart Street. The current Longlands the associated malthouse. The most Almhouses are dated 1830. On the important spaces are the Market Place, east side of the churchyard is another the churchyard and to a lesser extent, group of almshouses comprising those the area around the northern end of endowed by Humphrey Newberry in Northfield Road, where it widens into a 1664 and rebuilt in 1844 and a further triangular space. four more almshouses next door. These were originally built in 1669 and St Mary's Church dates in part to the were paid for by a Mrs Anne early 13th century although the tower Messenger, although they too were was not added until 1540, probably by substantially reconstructed in 1846. John Longland, Bishop of Lincoln. It is particularly noticeable for its use of By contrast with the small, intimate brick and flint and for its location at the scale of the almshouses and the end of Hart Street, connecting the town adjoining Chantry House, the Town to the river Thames. To the rear of the Hall, which terminates the other end of church, facing the churchyard, is the the Market Place and therefore faces Chantry House, the oldest secular the church, is a symmetrical, neo- building in Henley. It is constructed classical late 19th century red brick from timber and it is said that it was municipal building, brimming with local built for the Chantry priests, who sang pride and importance. It was completed masses for the local inhabitants. It in 1901 to commemorate Queen dates from the late 15th century and Victoria's Diamond Jubilee and it is has recently been extensively restored now listed grade II*. with the help of a grant from English Brakspear's Brewery is composed of Heritage. several different buildings from varying

HENLEY CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL 15 South Oxfordshire District Council building periods, representing the decorated with large signs relating to incremental growth of the business the former brewery use. These provide over the centuries. Breweries occupy a a strong link with the historic function central position in British culture and of the site and should be retained. history and the striking physical Other typical elements of design can presence of the brewery, sited in the be seen such as round headed middle of the town, has a significant windows, blank arcading, repetitive impact on the townscape. Far from fenestration - all of which are directly being purely utilitarian, the buildings descended from the Georgian represent a distinct architectural brewhouse. The early use of concrete tradition which emerged in the latter is found in the mineral water factory of part of the 19th century in brewery 1897 which has a concrete floor. architecture which expressed the To the east of these buildings are increasing complexity and earlier more domestic buildings which sophistication of these industrial were built as residences or offices for buildings. Care was clearly taken in the the brewery owners. The most design of the principal elements of the important is no. 86, the Old Brewery front elevations to create significant House, an almost detached five bay landmark buildings, including a date Georgian house, listed grade II*. Next stone which faces New Street denoting door and now more subsumed within "WHB and Sons 1897" on the mineral the brewery complex, are two further water factory. These late 19th century houses, both listed grade II, which date buildings are two or three storeys high to the early 19th century. These are and built from robust red engineering only two storeys high, but their use of brick with dark brown brickwork red and blue brick, multi-paned sash defining some of the windows, the windows, moulded window architraves arched recesses which face New and panelled front doors with plain Street and some string courses. doorhoods is of note. No. 84 has a Approximately seven bays long, there particularly attractive two storey curved are two taller bays with gables and a bay, in which, at ground floor level, sits longer and lower section which is also the front door.

Further buildings of a much earlier date can be seen along Church Avenue. These are 16th or 17th century timber- framed structures, of a more domestic scale and although the external elevations are painted white, glimpses of a massive stone plinth can be seen. Facing the churchyard, the return elevation of this building is a pleasing combination of timber-framing, red brick nogging and one early leaded- light casement window. Beyond, most of the brewery buildings appear to date to the late 19th century with the tall

Brakspear’s Brewery brick chimney, rebuilt in the 20th century, being of particular significance.

16 HENLEY CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL South Oxfordshire District Council To either side of the brewery are long give the area a vitality and which is courtyards, glimpsed from New Street particularly popular with visitors and behind iron gates, the smaller of which residents alike. lies between nos. 84 and 86 New Street. This is notable for the various Area 4 : architectural features associated with The western edges : West Street, the lifting and storage of beer and for Gravel Hill, Kings Road, Hop the view of the brick chimney beyond. Gardens and Friar Park. The larger courtyard, which lies to the To the west of the Market Place the western boundary of the brewery, is land rises up Gravel Hill towards Friar more generously sized, reflecting its Park, with terraces of listed buildings use as a garden to nos. 37 and 39 Hart on either side. West Street lies parallel Street until at least 1925. The buildings to Gravel Hill, but the buildings are facing the driveway through to the rear much smaller. Gravel Hill is notable for are also built from the red and blue its raised pavement (which is listed), brick of the late 19th century frontage the quality of its listed buildings and the buildings, as is the boundary wall with recently landscaped area to the west no. 76. This courtyard faces a very of the Town Hall. Kings Road and the interesting row of late medieval two associated streets, Clarence Road cottages - nos. 58-76 New Street. and York Road, which lead up to This once common form of architecture Townlands Hospital, are made up of is becoming increasingly rare. The very good quality Edwardian terraced 1960s saw the closure of many houses, largely unaltered. breweries and the widespread indifference to Victorian architecture at that time meant that many brewery buildings were simply demolished. This means that those surviving, such as Henley Brewery, have important historical significance.

Also significant within Area 3 are the several remaining former coaching inns : the Catherine Wheel, the Red Lion and the Old White Hart, all in Hart Street. These are a reminder of the importance of the town as a stopping point on one of the main routes to London from Oxford as well its position Gravel Hill as a main market town in the upper Thames Valley. Townlands Hospital comprises a fairly open hilly site, a number of modern The pedestrian priority area in the buildings of no special interest and a centre of the Market Place provides an group of listed buildings in the north- appropriate setting to the Town Hall west corner which once formed part of and has been carefully landscaped. the late 18th century workhouse, This is the most important public open although a substantial extension was space in Henley and is surrounded by added in c.1900. The adjoining former various cafes and restaurants, which

HENLEY CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL 17 South Oxfordshire District Council school buildings are of a similar age, shrubbery and trees. It was built for Sir recently listed. Their current neglected Frank Crisp in the 1890s in a highly appearance is of concern. The recently decorated Gothic style and the land to listed pest house dating from the late this building once stretched around the 19th century, lies in the centre of the northern edges of Henley as far as site, isolated from the main buildings. Northfield End. There are several This is a significant survival lodges, the most notable of which demonstrating an early application of faces Gravel Hill. The house is owned medical knowledge on the spread of by the widow of George Harrison, the infectious diseases. The site is former Beatle, so the site is not open to proposed for some redevelopment. the public.

Hop Gardens is a long straight road Area 5 : defined on its western side by the The riverside : Wharfe Lane, boundary of Friar Park. To the east of Thameside, Henley Bridge and Hop Gardens are a number of late 19th part of Station Road. century houses and cottages, mainly listed, the most significant of which are This area is dominated by the River the six pairs of cottages, built for Friar Thames, with a variety of views over Park estate workers. Fonthill dates to the river to the wooded hill beyond. 1881 and forms a group with no. 2 and Public access to the river is possible to Surrey Lodge, all of which are listed. most of the riverside via an The gardens are spacious with mature embankment which stretches from New trees and shrubbery, with good views Street to the south of the conservation eastwards across to the Chiltern hills area. This is blocked at one point by beyond the river. Henley Bridge, making pedestrian movement around the western end of Friar Park is a substantial 19th century the bridge somewhat constrained. house which is almost invisible from the public road due to its surrounding The character is defined by the riverside location and the various boating activities along the river bank. Whilst these activities are now all purely for pleasure or sport, evidence of the previous commercial nature of the area is seen in the many late 19th century boathouses and warehouses such as nos. 1-6 Wharf Lane, now mainly converted into houses. Close to Phyllis Court, three substantial Edwardian houses sit back from the river in large gardens, but further south in Wharf Lane are a group of former boathouses in a terrace which sit right on the river bank. Their decorative gables, with carved bargeboards, are typical of this part of Henley.

Thameside continues southwards from Friar Park Lodge Wharf Lane with a long terrace of

18 HENLEY CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL South Oxfordshire District Council varied buildings, mainly listed, ending in extremely well with the existing in the Red Lion Hotel and, just around buildings. the corner, St Mary's Church. Other important hotels include the Little Area 6 : White Hart Hotel, an early 20th century Late 19th and early 20th century replacement of a much earlier hotel on suburbs : Greys Road, Albert the site and the Angel Hotel, an 18th Road, Greys Hill, Church Street, century hostelry overlooking Henley Norman Avenue, Reading Road Bridge. The histories of these and and Queen Street. other public houses and hotels in There was a great deal of residential Henley are amply described in Ann development in this part of Henley Cottingham's book. between the 1880s and the beginning Henley's riverside location also of World War I. This development is , provided the perfect setting for the characterised by long terraces of annual , which modest-sized houses, which takes place at the end of June. It sometimes included unusual and started in 1829 when Oxford and eclectic details in a unique Henley "Arts Cambridge Universities held a boat- and Crafts" style (e.g. nos. 23-33 race from Hambleden to Henley. The Queen Street). Reading Road and popularity of the event led to the first Greys Road, both busy main roads, are Regatta being held in 1839, with royal more varied, with a mix of 18th and patronage being established in 1851 early 19th century buildings, some of when Prince Albert attended. Today, which are listed. Holy Trinity Church the week-long series of rowing races, opened in 1848 is an important and parties and general socialising is a attractive local landmark, with cottages major part of the social calendar and in Greys Hill and the neighbouring brings huge numbers of visitors into the school opened in 1850 all making an town. important contribution to this special character. Norman Avenue, with its The second section of Thameside contains more 18th and 19th century houses and cottages facing the water. Nos. 7-19 Thameside are a group of tall, stuccoed houses, the only example of a prestigious, purpose-built terrace in Henley. The enjoyment of this area is somewhat spoilt by the busy traffic but the riverside location, including the walkways next to the river bank, provides an attractive environment.

Beyond the turning into Station Road, there are more Edwardian boathouses, similar to those on the northern fringes of this area, but set back from the river bank with a wide, pedestrian-only walkway. Modern development has Reading Road been successfully provided, marrying-

HENLEY CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL 19 South Oxfordshire District Council trees and quiet location, provides some Whilst red brick is the most common more interesting late 19th century material, some of the houses are built buildings, also listed. The United out of flint, or out of a warm beige- Reformed Church is notable as the coloured Cotswold stone, with clay tiled resting place of the brother of the roofs and carved stone decoration, famous painter Thomas Gainsborough. some of it somewhat whimsical. Examples in St Mark's Road (Colston Area 7: Villas) include heavy window surrounds St Mark's Road, Hamilton Road, and carved window panels, featuring Vicarage Road and St Andrew's various birds in relief. Small gables Road. breaking through the eaves and canted bays add to the general confusion. These streets lie within a separate Some of these houses are dated 1906 conservation area to the south of the and their period of construction main Henley Conservation Area which accords with other rather eclectic was developed as a cohesive whole in buildings in Henley, such as Norman the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Avenue and nos. 23-33 Queen Street. It is characterised by red brick houses, Of note is the survival of many of the with blue brick decoration and slate original front doors, heavily decorated roofs. These are mainly semi-detached and the original sash windows. (but only just), set back slightly from the road behind hedges or brick walls. Whilst these buildings are so varied The roads are laid out on a grid architecturally, they are united by their pattern, with a common building line for common building line, set back behind most of the houses and the gardens modest front gardens; by their overall are reasonably generous, but long and height and bulk (two storeys are the narrow. The more substantial houses most common); and by their are in St Andrew's Road, being relationship with their largely concealed detached with larger gardens. Views of rear gardens. The historic form of the surrounding wooded hills are development - frontage house with particularly attractive. large garden behind, is a significant local characteristic. Trees and other more open gardens also make an important contribution to the character of the conservation area, as do some very fine examples of red brick walling, such as the balustraded brick wall outside nos. 38/40 Vicarage Road.

Chapter 6 The buildings of the Henley Conservation Area

Introduction.

Henley is notable for the high density of listed buildings in the main streets, for the variety of building styles and St Mark's Road materials and for the many unlisted

20 HENLEY CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL South Oxfordshire District Council buildings, mainly dating to the late Listed buildings. 19th or early 20th centuries, which also There are approximately 378 listed make a very positive contribution to the buildings in the Henley Conservation character of the conservation area. Area. The statutory list was drawn up These are called "Buildings of in 1974 and it includes a much greater Townscape Merit" and these and all of variety of buildings than is usual, the listed buildings are marked on the including many late 19th century Townscape Appraisal maps. buildings such as the highly decorated The survival of the medieval street houses in Norman Avenue. pattern and adjoining burgage plots The earliest buildings were mainly has ensured that development within timber-framed, but after about 1700 the town centre has largely followed brick became more fashionable and the historic template, so most buildings cheaper so many of the existing are modest in size (two or three timber-framed structures were either storeys) often with long outshuts to the refronted or else demolished and back. These are usually accessed by rebuilt. Many of the listed buildings in carriageways through the buildings, Henley's principal streets are therefore providing glimpses of cobbled either timber-framed or refaced in courtyards, as in Hart Street (no. 16, brick, with Georgian details. In the no. 18, the Catherine Wheel Hotel, early 19th century, stucco, often lined nos. 27-29 and no. 39). out to imitate stone, was considered to Roofs are invariably fairly steeply be the most desirable building material pitched, with local handmade tiles and examples can be found in Bell typical on buildings up to the mid 19th Street particularly. century. After then, improved There is one grade I listed building in communications provided easier the conservation area, the Chantry access to materials from further afield House, which is located behind the and Welsh slate can often be found on Red Lion Hotel, facing the churchyard. buildings dating from the latter part of This is a timber-framed building dating the 19th century. Red brick, often c.1400-1500. It was said to have mixed with a silvery-blue brick, was housed the Chantry priests. Later it very popular between 1700 and the became a school until 1846. It was early 19th century. After then the referred to as ‘The Old School’ until enthusiasm for Italianate architecture 1920s and is now owned by the church led to the use of painted stucco, often and used for community purposes and lined out to replicate stone. More has recently been extensively restored recently, timber-framed buildings of the with the help of English Heritage. 16th and 17th centuries have been discovered and in some cases In addition, there are 13 grade II* listed revealed by removing more modern buildings, as follows: refacings. A typical example are nos. ● St Mary's Church, Hart Street (13th, 33 and 35 Duke Street, a grade II listed 15th and 19th century) building with an old peg tiled roof ● The Town Hall in the Market Place where the recent removal of the (Architect Henry T Hare, completed rendering to the side elevation has 1900). revealed timber frame, possibly dating from the 16th century.

HENLEY CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL 21 South Oxfordshire District Council ● No. 32 Bell Street (18th century ● Phyllis Court Lodge and gates, house). Marlow Road (late 18th century, possibly by James Wyatt) ● Nos. 86 and 88 Bell Street (18th century house). Henley also retains a great number of early timber-framed buildings, although ● The Old White Hart, nos. 19B, 21 it is very likely that more await to be and 23 Hart Street (possibly 13th discovered behind later façades. Of century cellar, late 15th or early note are the several examples dating 16th century timber-framing). to the 15th century, some of which ● Nos. 74, 76, 78 Bell Street (which appear to have contained open halls have been dendrodated to 1406). (nos. 2 and 4 Reading Road and no. ● 18 Hart Street (18th century front, 76 Bell Street). These buildings earlier building behind) represent a building type of the late medieval period, when halls open to ● Longlands, no. 39 Hart Street (18th the roof and heated by a central hearth century front to older house, which were ubiquitous. Changes in social and contains magnificent 18th century cultural values after the mid-16th staircase) century combined with improvements ● Old Brewery House, no. 86 New in housing technology led to a decline Street (18th century) in the open hall. Brick chimneys were inserted and the open halls were floored over to create additional accommodation. Their existence can sometimes be confirmed by the evidence of smoke-blackened roof timbers, resulting from the use of open fires in the hall below.

Most of the listed buildings in Henley were built for domestic purposes and these form the majority of the buildings in Hart Street, Market Place, Bell Street, New Street and Friday Street. However, there are also a number of other listed buildings of note which were built for religious, commercial or community Old Brewery House, 86 New Street uses. The most important are: ● Northfield House, no. 11 Northfield ● St Mary's Church, Hart Street (13th End (18th century) century nave, 15th and 19th ● Former Bell Inn, now 3 houses (Elm century). House, Ruperts Elm and Ruperts ● Drinking fountain, outside St Mary's Guard), Northfield End (17th/18th Church 1885. century coaching inn, later the Royal Grammar School) ● A 1930s K6 telephone kiosk, Market Place. ● The Rectory, no. 17 Thameside (c.1700)

22 HENLEY CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL South Oxfordshire District Council ● Henley Baptist Church, Market Place 1878.

● Grandstand in grounds of Phyllis Court (probably 1913 by G F Sainsbury).

● Kenton Theatre, nos. 19 and 21 New Street. A rare example of an early 19th century purpose-built theatre, still in use. This is the third oldest working theatre in the country.

● Malthouse to Henley Brewery, New Street. A late 19th double malthouse with two prominent towers.

● Brakspear's Brewery , New Street. An extremely interesting former Philimore Fountain, Hart Street brewery with some 16th century ● Henley Bridge was largely rebuilt in timber framed buildings and a 1786 to the designs of William grade II* brewer's house facing the Hayward alongside the 12th street. century bridge, the arches of which remain on both sides of the river. ● Christ Church, Hall and Manse This possibly dates to Henry II's 1907. Architect Hampden Pratt. setting out of the new town in the ● R C Church of the Sacred Heart, 1170s. Keystones of Thamesis and Vicarage Road 1936. Architect A S Isis carved by sculptress Mrs G Butler designed to incorporate an Damer at the time of construction. alter, mensa and pulpit by A W

● Former Workhouse and Pest Pugin and a reredos by E W Pugin. House, Townlands Hospital 1790 Buildings of Townscape Merit. ● Holy Trinity Church, Church Street 1848 by Benjamin Ferrey Within Henley there are a large number of unlisted Buildings of Townscape ● Former school building, Gravel Hill Merit, which make a positive 1879. contribution to the character and ● Main building at South Oxfordshire appearance of the conservation area. Technical College. Mid 19th century They include 19th century shops Jacobean style using knapped flint, (where they still retain the majority of stone quoins and window dressings their original details) and groups of tiled roofs. good quality late Victorian and Edwardian houses. These buildings ● Friar Park 1889. Architect M Clarke have been identified as part of the Edwards for Sir Frank Crisp. appraisal process and are marked on ● Old School House, Hart Street the Townscape Appraisal map. 1856. Architect James Brooks, now a house.

HENLEY CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL 23 South Oxfordshire District Council stone although flints found in the chalk hills nearby did provide a source of very hard-wearing facing material. However, flint is more often used in Henley for boundary walls. Examples of totally flint buildings include The Cottage, Bell Lane, an 18th century building where the flint is dressed with red brick and nos. 17-29 (odd) Friday Street, where flint is used to reface parts of a 17th century timber-frame range. Buildings of Townscape Merit, York Road Materials. When St Mary's Church was first built in the late 13th century, a honey- Henley contains a wide variety of coloured stone, probably from the building styles, according to age and Cotswolds, was used to provide the function, and a notably diverse range architectural embellishments to the flint of materials, whose popularity altered walls. This flint was first knapped as fashions changed. Of note are the (broken open and shaped) to create a many timber-framed buildings, dating flat surface and then used to face thick to the 15th, 16th and 17th centuries, rubble walls. Later, stone and flint many of which were refronted in the panels were used to create a 18th or early 19th centuries, providing distinctive chequer-board pattern, one the "Georgian" townscape for which of the main features of the east Henley is so well known. Therefore, elevation of the church facing Henley whilst painted stucco, red or blue brick Bridge. appear to be the predominant materials, in reality many of the Other early buildings in Henley are all buildings have back and side walls of timber-framed. The Chantry House, timber, infilled with lathe and plaster, dating to c.1450-1520, is a very good brick or chalk block. There was no example of large square timber- convenient local supply of building framing. This would, at the time, have been a high quality, prestigious building, due to its five-bay plan, jettied first floor and curved wind braces.

Other examples of timber-framed buildings are concentrated in the original streets: Market Place, Hart Street, Bell Street, Friday Street and New Street - all of which all have examples of 15th, 16th and 17th century timber buildings. The south side of Hart Street contains a large number of timber-framed houses, many of which date back to the 16th century or even earlier. The most notable of these is Speaker's House (nos. 44, 46 St Mary's Church, Hart Street and 50) which sits opposite the church.

24 HENLEY CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL South Oxfordshire District Council Here, both first and second floors are a number of timber-framed buildings jettied and three gables face the street. (nos. 6, 18, 20 and 26/28) which were Jetties and gables were elements of refronted with silvery grey brick in the display denoting high status and these late18th century early 19th century, dominant features are important in with red brick to the window surrounds views along Hart Street. Oriel windows, or corners. No. 32 Bell Street, listed lead-light casements and much painted grade II*, has a very fine front elevation lime render provide additional interest. composed of silver grey and red brick, Less prestigious, but of great local with red brick quoins and window significance, is a row of late medieval surrounds. No. 29 Thameside turns the timber-framed cottages, nos. 58-72 corner into New Street with a gentle New Street, which stretch back from curve, where the shiny blue/black the road facing the side access to headers are shown off to their best Brakspear's Brewery. These date to the effect. Longlands, no. 39 Hart Street 15th, 16th and 17th centuries and (II*), is one of the best examples in the represent the late building up of the town of a Georgian front to an earlier burgage plot behind no. 58. timber-framed building with its yellow and red stock brick. For all of these buildings, roofs are covered in plain handmade clay tiles, usually a rich red colour and made locally. There is little evidence for the use of thatch, but it is likely that some of the more vernacular buildings - warehouses, outbuildings and cottages - would have been roofed using this material.

Chimneys were constructed using brick, flint or stone. Bricks were not widely used for walling until improved methods of production made them, and clay roof tiles, a more affordable material from the end of the 17th century onwards. There are no obvious examples of entirely brick buildings in Henley before about 1700, but after this time, brick was used, mainly to Speaker's House, Hart Street refront older buildings. This local brick Although these buildings had new, was red or a grey-blue, often used fashionable brick frontages, to the rear together to create dramatic front and sides the original timber-framed elevations, clearly designed for structure was left exposed and today prestige and "show" and there are many of Henley's buildings have many such buildings in Henley town sections of timber-framing visible centre (e.g. nos. 22/24 and 34/36 Bell behind 18th or 19th century façades. Street and no. 19 Gravel Hill, where These can be glimpsed from the many the grey headers create a pattern of courtyards, carriage entrances or alleys vertical lines on the front façade). which are typical of the town centre Along the south side of Hart Street are

HENLEY CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL 25 South Oxfordshire District Council and several examples can be seen on notable examples include no. 54 New the south side of Market Place and on Street, nos. 34 and 36 Bell Street and the north side of Hart Street, including nos. 17 and 19 Church Street. Red the Catherine Wheel Hotel. brick, sometimes decorated with white brick string courses or limestone At the beginning of the 19th century, dressings, was very much used for the the use of lime render or "stucco", vast amount of new housing which often lined out to replicate stone, sprung up in the town after the railway became the desirable material and arrived in the 1850s (St Andrew's Road there are many examples of such and St Mark's Road). Usually these buildings in the conservation area. buildings were roofed in slate, made These include no. 50 New Street, a possible by the provision of cheap three storey building with a bracketed transportation by train from Wales. eaves cornice, sash windows and a shallow pitched slate roof, all dating to Building style and plan form. c.1840, and nos. 6-14 West Street (Albion Place), a row of early 19th For timber-framed buildings dating to century cottages set back slightly from the 15th, 16th and 17th centuries, the the street. At about the same time, the style and plan form of the building was house immediately adjacent, no. 4 constrained by the use of timber and West Street (West Hill House), was the maximum length of structural beam refronted using stucco, covering a 17th it could provide. Most timber-framed century timber-frame. buildings in Henley sit on the back line of the street, usually three or sometimes four bays wide, each bay being approximately 5 metres long (e.g. nos. 2, 4 and 6 New Street). The earlier buildings are sometimes jettied, with the first floor oversailing the ground floor slightly (e.g. nos. 58 and 76 New Street). This was done principally for show. Roofs are steeply pitched, sometimes gabled to the street (e.g. Speaker's House, Hart Street and the Bull Inn, nos. 57 and 59 Bell Street), or arranged in a simple rectangular form parallel to the street, with thick brick stacks and exposed Stuccoed house in New Street rafter ends, sometimes covered with carved bargeboards. The inside layout Throughout the 19th century, the use of of such buildings tended to be very many different materials became simple with a series of inter-connecting popular. Flint continued to be used, rooms, sometimes linked by a later particularly for prestigious buildings corridor at the back of the building, such as Holy Trinity Church in Greys covered by a catslide roof. Hill, but also for modest artisan cottages such as nos. 96-100 West In Henley, the tight urban form of the Street (c.1880). Red and grey brick town centre has resulted in the also continued to be popular and more accumulation over the years of a

26 HENLEY CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL South Oxfordshire District Council jumble of back extensions, often of different building periods. These usually follow the line of the early burgage plots, such as nos. 22-30 New Street. Additionally, the installation of Georgian fronts, new staircases and the creation of more comfortable, heated rooms has left another veneer of change. Whilst these are inevitably very varied, they all tell a story about the development of the building and alterations to such properties should respect this evolution over time. In some cases, the development of the building can only be determined by an archaeological assessment.

Georgian brick buildings of the 18th and early 19th centuries in Henley town centre are usually constrained by the earlier burgage plot site and narrow frontages, creating a terraced form of development positioned tightly to the back of the pavement. Most of the buildings were built as private houses Imperial Hotel, Station Road and are relatively tall - three or four The best examples are in commercial storeys, although lower on the edges of uses: Barclays Bank, no. 10 Hart the town. Tiled or slated roofs run Street; the Imperial Hotel, Station parallel to the street, with hipped or Road; and the National Westminster gabled ends and tall brick chimney Bank, 18 Market Place. Outside the stacks. These properties tend to be town centre, there are a number of three or four windows wide, with a streets of good quality mainly terraced central front entrance. housing of a similar date: Queen From the mid-19th century onwards, Street, Albert Road and the King's many of the buildings in the town Road area are the most complete. centre were built for commercial, Properties in Reading Road provide a institutional or religious purposes so good example of the red and cream each building is very different. Friar brick work typical of nearby Caversham Park, a substantial flamboyant Gothic bricklayers. Some houses are house not visible from the road and its particularly well decorated: Norman lodge in Gravel Hill, are good examples Avenue, dating to c.1895, with stone of the somewhat unusual designs of dressings on red brick façades; nos. the architect M Clarke Edwards. 23-33 Queen Street, surprisingly unlisted; and, more unusually, Henley is also notable for its late 19th properties in St Mark's Road, with century buildings, often built in the Old castellated parapets. Many display a English style using false timber- variety of eclectic details (see below), framing, red brick, tiled roofs and possibly influenced by similar work at mullioned and transomed windows.

HENLEY CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL 27 South Oxfordshire District Council Friar Park. Along the riverside, the well detailed front doors, both six former boathouses, with their gables panelled, one with engaged Doric defined by ornate carved barge boards, columns creating a doorcase and an are an important feature. original curved fanlight and the other with a pair of Corinthian pilasters Architectural details. supporting a moulded head. Other examples can be found in Bell Street Details on the early timber-framed and New Street, as well as Gravel Hill. buildings are extremely varied and few For the older, timber-framed buildings, are genuinely historic. Windows tend to a number of modern copies can be be 19th century or later alterations, found - ledged and braced oak or sometimes replicating the leaded light simple painted pine boards. casements which were likely to have been there originally. The single leaded Shopfronts. light casement in Brakspear's Brewery may be one of the few 17th century examples in the town, unaltered due to "neglect".

Simple wooden casements, sometimes with a thin central glazing bar (another 19th century improvement) are also common. Otherwise, Georgian sashes predominate, to fit in with 18th and No. 6 Hart Street early 19th century refacing work. These Henley provides a variety of well are often well detailed with six-over-six detailed historic shopfronts, the best lights, thin meeting rails and internal examples being in Hart Street and Bell shutters. Good examples can be seen Street. No. 6 Hart Street ("New throughout the town but Longlands (no. Traditions") retains most of its early 39 Hart Street) has some good quality 19th century shopfront, with shallow 18th century sashes. pilasters, moulded panels to the stall In the later part of the 19th century, riser and fine mullions. No. 30 Hart sashes continued to be popular Street ("Jacksons") has another early although mullion and transomed 19th century example with a canted windows, with casements, can also be bay on one side of the entrance and found. Side opening casements, with or four sash windows to the right, creating without glazing bars, can be found in a shopfront. On the other side of Hart many of the more artisan cottages in Street, no. 17 ("Chancellors") has a such streets as Friday Street and slightly quirky late 19th century Gravel Hill. shopfront with a deep frieze supported Henley is particularly well endowed on console brackets. By contrast, no. with a variety of very good quality front 27 ("Rive Gauche") is a taller, more doors, mainly on the Georgian façades elegant 19th century shopfront, with a in the town centre. Six or four panels well designed canvas sun blind. In Bell are common, decorated with raised Street, the best shopfront is and fielded panels or simply flush undoubtedly no. 52 ("The Bell Street beaded. The Catherine Wheel Hotel Bookshop"), where a slightly altered Front door to the Catherine provides two examples of unusually 19th century shopfront extends along Wheel Hotel, Hart Street

28 HENLEY CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL South Oxfordshire District Council the full width of the building, being supported midway by two moulded cast iron pillars.

Most of the historic shopfronts in Henley are located in listed buildings and are therefore protected from unsympathetic alterations. The least attractive shopfronts are in Bell Street, in the unlisted buildings such as nos. 10 and 12 ("Anthony Paul" and "Franciscos") where the fascia is far too prominent.

HENLEY CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL 29 South Oxfordshire District Council