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Florence & Tuscany 11

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Florence &

Northwestern Tuscany (p247) # (p62)

Eastern Tuscany (p294) Central Coast & & Central (p217) Tuscany (p137)

Southern Tuscany (p195)

Nicola Williams, Virginia Maxwell PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD

Welcome to Tuscany . . . . 4 FLORENCE...... 62 Volterra ...... 175 Florence & Tuscany map. . .. 6 Val d’Orcia...... 179 Tuscany’s Top 15...... 8 SIENA & CENTRAL ...... 180 Need to Know...... 16 TUSCANY...... 137 Pienza...... 184 . . . . . 187 First Time Tuscany. . . . . 18 Siena ...... 140 Chiusi...... 193 What’s New...... 20 Chianti...... 156 If You Like ...... 22 ...... 156 SOUTHERN Badia a Passignano. . . . 158 Month by Month. . . . . 25 TUSCANY...... 195 Itineraries ...... 29 San Casciano in Val di Pesa...... 162 Accommodation. . . . . 36 Alta Maremma . . . . . 198 Castellina in Chianti . . . . 163 Marittima . . . . . 198 Getting Around...... 38 Radda in Chianti...... 164 Monte Amiata...... 202 Eat & Drink Gaiole in Chianti...... 165 Like a Local...... 41 ...... 203 . . . . . 167 Activities...... 48 Città del Tufo ...... 204 ...... 174 Pitigliano...... 204 Family Travel...... 56 Regions at a Glance. . . . 59 PAOLO TROVO/SHUTTERSTOCK© BILL PERRY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

DELICATESSEN, PITIGLIANO P204 TRAVELKIWIS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

CHIUSI P193 Contents

UNDERSTAND

Sovana...... 207 ...... 232 History...... 318 Sorano...... 208 Golfo di ...... 233 The Tuscan Bassa Maremma. . . . . 209 . . . . 234 Way of Life...... 329 Grosseto ...... 212 Elba...... 234 The Tuscan Table . . . . 333 Parco Regionale della Giglio, Maremma ...... 213 & Pianosa ...... 246 Tuscany on Page & Screen . . . . . 341 Orbetello...... 215 Capraia...... 246 Monte Argentario. . . . . 215 Art & Architecture. . . . 344 NORTHWESTERN CENTRAL COAST TUSCANY...... 247 & ELBA...... 217 ...... 250 ...... 220 ...... 261 SURVIVAL Etruscan Coast. . . . . 227 Pistoia ...... 270 GUIDE Castiglioncello ...... 227 ...... 277 Directory A–Z...... 358 Bolgheri...... 228 Apuane & San Vincenzo ...... 229 Garfagnana...... 279 Transport...... 364 Castelnuovo di Garfagnana...... 279 Language...... 369 Barga ...... 281 Index...... 377 Bagni di Lucca ...... 283 Carrara...... 284 Versilian Coast...... 286 SPECIAL ...... 287 FEATURES ...... 289 Lazy Days in Florence . . .112 ...... 292 Wine Tour of Chianti. . 160 ...... 292 Medieval Masterpieces ...... 171 EASTERN Exploring the TUSCANY...... 294 Val d’Orcia...... 182 Arezzo...... 295 Etruscan Wine & Sansepolcro ...... 303 Oil Road...... 230 Casentino Valley. . . . . 307 Lazy Days in Elba. . . . 242 Poppi ...... 307 Why Pisa Leans . . . . . 254 Parco Nazionale delle Foreste Casentinesi. . . . . 309 Via Francigena . . . . . 290 Val di Chiana...... 313 Magnificent Cortona...... 313 Monasteries ...... 305 Go Slow in the Valle del Casentino. . . 310 Tuscan Artists...... 349 STAINED-GLASS WINDOW, BASILICA DI SANTA MARIA Tuscan Architecture. . . 352 NOVELLA P88 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 29

Itineraries É

#• Lucca É #• Florence

San #• Pisa Miniato #• É CHIANTI É Bargino #•

É É #• É Greve in Chianti

Badia a Passignano #• É É

San Gimignano #•

É É É

Volterra #•

#• Siena

M E D I T E R R A N E A N S E A

10 DAYS Only the Best

This road trip takes in a classic Tuscan mix of world-class art, medieval architecture, gorgeous countryside and outstanding food and wine. Devote three days to exploring Florence. Visit the Uffizi and stroll the Arno riverbanks. Day two, discover opulent Medici chapels, extraordinary frescoes and Michelangelo’s David in San Marco and San Lorenzo. Last day, lose yourself in the Oltrarno’s ancient web of lanes laced with artists’ workshops or head into off-the-tourist-radar San Frediano. Day four, go slow in 16th-century walled Lucca. Rent a bicycle to cruise along en- chanting cobbled streets and graceful, butter-coloured piazzas. On day five, head to Pisa early to climb the Leaning Tower, then hit the eastbound road to Chianti with a lunch break in foodie-town San Miniato. Use an agriturismo (farm stay) around Greve in Chianti or elsewhere in Chianti as a base for three days, and explore the magically preserved medieval town of San Gimignano, artistic enclave Volterra and Antinori wine cellars in Bargino and Badia a Passignano. End in Gothic Siena for two days of breathlessly beautiful piazzas, churches, museums and restaurants. 30

San Gimignano #• PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN

Siena #•

É

É It

Crete É

i nerar #• Senesi

Abbazia di É É É Montepulciano

#• San Galgano É #• Montalcino #• Val Pienza Val di dOrcia i es Chiana

É

É Abbazia di #• Sant'Antimo

Bagni San #• Filippo

1 WEEK The Heart of Tuscany

For those in the region for a limited time, this itinerary through central Tuscany more than lives up to the Tuscan dream of gently rolling hills, medieval towns, Renaissance splendour and some very fine wine indeed. Start in Siena, historical rival to Florence. A walking tour is the perfect prelude to the splendid Gothic symphony of this iconic Tuscan city. Gravitate towards the duomo and Museo Civico to explore each in greater depth. Break with a caffè on a pavement terrace on famously sloping . Continue your city exploration: Siena’s delightful- ly intact centro storico (historic centre) is a Unesco World Heritage Site for good reason. On day two (or three if Siena begs you to linger), motor southeast through the rounded hills and cypress alleys of Crete Senesi to Unesco-loved Pienza, a stroke of Renaissance architectural genius that, with a couple of lovely sleeping and eating options in and around town, is a brilliant base for exploring this tasty neck of the Tuscan woods. Or meander 15km east to blockbuster wine town Montepulciano in the gourmet Val di Chiana and use that as a base. Spend the next three days pandering to your culture- hungry soul and appetite for world-class wine and food: in the Val d’Orcia, tour vine- yards around Montalcino, savour the serene beauty of Abbazia di Sant’Antimo, wander through the ruined Cistercian of San Galgano and soak in hot cascades at Bagni San Filippo. In Montepulciano, sink your teeth into a feisty slab of local Chi- anina beef, slicked in fragrant olive oil and accompanied by a glass of Brunello di Mon- talcino or Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (two of ’s greatest wines). End your sojourn in this idyllic area by looping back along scenic secondary roads to romantic San Gimignano, home to medieval tower houses, a lavishly frescoed duomo and cutting-edge contemporary art. Dine on pasta dishes scented with locally grown saffron, drink the town’s golden-hued Vernaccia wine and, whatever you do, don’t miss out on the superb saffron-and-Vernaccia sorbet by former gelato world champion, Sergio Dondoli. 31 FABIANO’S_PHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK © PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN It i nerar i es BUFFY1982/SHUTTERSTOCK © Top: Piazza del Campo (p141), Siena Bottom: Sacro Eremo e Monastero di Camaldoli (p312), Tuscany 32

•# Pratovecchio•# Camaldoli Florence •#

oggione •# É É

É É É É

•# #÷ É La erna Poppi •#

É Parco Nazionale delle PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN TRIP YOUR PLAN Foreste Casentinesi •# É Caprese ichelangelo

Sansepolcro •# É It It

i nerar •# Areo i nerar

É i es i es

Castiglion •#Fiorentino Val di Chiana É D Assisi •# Cortona

12 DAYS Into the East

The perfect trip for Tuscan connoisseurs, this itinerary varies the pace with a mix of well-known destinations and intriguing alternatives. Spend three days admiring the Renaissance splendour of Florence before motoring east into the little-known Casentino region, home to the idyllically isolated Parco Nazi- onale delle Foreste Casentinesi. Base yourself around the fortified hill town of Poppi for three days and visit isolated, windswept medieval monasteries in Camaldoli and La Verna, hike trails in the national park, lunch on local cucina tipica casentinese (typical Casentino cuisine) in family-run village restaurant Il Cedro in Moggione, and dine after dark in Pratovecchio. Next head southeast. Stop in Caprese Michelangelo to see where David’s creator lived for the first few months of his life. Then continue to Sansepolcro, proud posses- sor of masterpieces by the Renaissance painter Piero della Francesca. Tear yourself away after two nights and continue to the Val di Chiana for a few days of eating, drinking and sightseeing. Allow a full day for provincial capital Arezzo, with its marvellous central square and cafe life. Get acquainted with the architect who designed Florence’s world- famous Galleria degli Uffizi at the Museo di Casa Vasari, and spend a quiet moment in the town’s beautiful churches. Join locals for lunch at Antica Osteria Agania followed by a late-afternoon passeggiata (stroll) with locals on shop-lined Corso Italia. Foodies are obliged to stop in the medieval hilltop town of Castiglion Fiorentino. Tuscany’s famed Chianina cow hails from this valley and the bistecca alla fiorentina (T-bone steak) served at Ristorante Da Muzzicone is the best there is. Devote time also to Cortona: walk up steep cobbled streets to its Fortezza Medicea, and admire the collec- tions at the Museo dell’Accademia Etrusca and Museo Diocesano. From Cortona it is an easy day trip to Assisi, one of Italy’s most famous centres with extraordinary Giotto frescoes. 33

Pietrasanta #•

assa É PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN TRIP YOUR PLAN

É arittima #• É San #•Pisa iniato #• #• É

É É #•etulonia

#• #•Livorno Lari É It ontaione#• It

i nerar Sorano i nerar

É É #• Sovana #• #• É ÷# Pitigliano #• Castiglioncello olterra #• i es Parco Regionale i es della Maremma

aguna di

É É onente #• Parco Archeologico Citt del Tufo #• #•ago di urano Bolgheri

Pisa & its 1 1 The Maremma WEEK Provinces WEEK

Tick off Pisa’s blockbuster icon before in- Outdoors-lovers will adore southern Tus- dulging in a crowd-free road south to the cany: dramatic landscapes etched out of coast. Start in Pisa, allowing time for the porous volcanic rock, local cowboy culture Museo Nazionale di San Matteo as well as and a heap of wild activities provide a tourist-packed Piazza dei Miracoli. Scale welcome adrenaline boost. the famous engineering project gone hor- Start in little-visited but delightful ribly wrong, aka the Leaning Tower. Come Massa Marittima and spend a couple of dusk, hit bijou art-town for Pietrasanta days visiting its museums and sampling an excellent dinner and overnight stay. On Maremmese food and wine in its rustic day two, pay homage to Italy’s Vespa scoot- cafes. Day three, check out an archaeologi- er at Museo Piaggio in or skip Pontedera cal dig, Etruscan tombs and an impressive the scooters to see spaghetti being made in museum at the ancient hilltop settlement Lari. Lunch in the village, then motor to of Vetulonia; overnight in an agritur- gourmet-town . Overnight at San Miniato ismo. From here, head down the coast to Barbialla Nuova near and, if the wild and wonderful Parco Regionale the season’s right, hunt white truffles. della Maremma to walk, canoe, cycle or From here, head to spectacularly sited horse ride alongside the famous cowboys Volterra in the Val di Cecina to visit known as the butteri. End your journey ateliers and . On inland amid the stunning surrounds of your fourth day, move to the coast, where the Città del Tufo where you must visit the wine-lovers can meander south to taste towns of Pitigliano, Sovana and Sorano. Super Tuscan Sassicaias in Bolgheri. Sample local Morellino di Scansano wine Drive north along the Etruscan Coast: at Sovana’s hybrid cafe-enoteca Vino al dip your toes in the sea in the delightfully Vino; explore the amazing Etruscan ne- old-fashioned resort of Castiglioncello cropolises at the Parco Archeologico ‘Città and end the day on a gourmet high with a del Tufo’; and spend a day taking an 8km seafood feast at La Barrocciaia in port-city walk along the enigmatic sunken roads Livorno. known as vie cave. 34 the Beaten rac

THE AAAA a

PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN Pontremoli •# Th e A IrI a pu an e A lps Parco Regionale Castelnuovo delle Alpi di arfagnana ApuaneTHE •# •# OFF T H E AAAABarga Ve •# assa rs ili igurian an LAI C Pistoia ea o a •# s a t B •# iareggio #•

EATEN •# ontecarlo : Lucca Parco Regionale rno

TRA Pisa Migliarino •# San Rossore Pontedera •# Massaciuccoli #– •# San iniato CK

Livorno•# •# LAI LAATIO LAATIO #• Gorgona olterra r Castiglioncello •# •# Bolgheri •# B Castagneto TEME DI Carducci •# SASSETTA •##æ San inceno •# Sassetta •# olfo di Capraia aratti assa TEME DI SASSETTA #• Baratti arittima t •# s t t Cavo olfo di #• C C arciana #• ollonica arina #• Elba s t #æ #• •# ISEA ATALE Fetovaia POIIALE DIAIA BOTOA Pianosa ISEA ATALE POIIALE DIAIA BOTOA e Campese •# Giglio 35

m e# miles

IL EDO driatic ea t e IIa TRIP YOUR PLAN rOana APESE MIHELAELO e I C n F C F C t C David’ OFF T H E Parco Nazionale delle Foreste Monte Casentinesi, Falterona Monte Falterona e Florence (165m)R Campigna B

Airport EATEN #– #•Fiesole Stia #• IL EDO #• #ú ABBAIA DI MOTE e arCHe Florence #• Poppi OLIETO MAIOE Chianti TRA Fiorentino APESE #• s MIHELAELO reve in CK Chianti #• Chianti B ev s I Chianti rno er San imignano Sense e aiole in #• Areo #• #• #• Castellina Chianti in Chianti

Siena #• #•Cortona

ABBAIA DI #• MOTE OLIETO Perugia MAIOE ontepulciano ABBAIA #•DI Val #• #• SATATIMO ontalcino #• dOrcia Piena #• e ABBAIA DI r r #æ Bagno e v

SATATIMO e ignoni #•Bagni San r R Filippo #• Monte Amiata etulonia rosseto #æ #• #• Sorano #• Parco Regionale Sovana #• della Maremma #• Pitigliano IADIO DEI TAOHI n t Porto IADIO DEI FaOrte n s Santo BrIa #• Stefano Orbetello TAOHI #• #• #• #æ iterbo #÷ Monte ago di Argentario Riserva Naturale urano Lago di Burano io Giannutri t ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 375

Behind the Scenes

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed- back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy.

Eleonora Sandrelli, Valentina Pierguidi, Maria WRITER THANKS Guarriello and the staff at Strada Vino Nobile Nicola Williams Montepulciano e Sapori Valdichiana Senese, Heartfelt thanks to those who shared their Maja Malbasa, Lucrezia Lorini, Vanessa Brezzi, love and insider knowledge with me: family Roberta Benini, Gerardo Giorgi, Caterina Mori tour guide & art historian extraordinaire Molly and Silvia Fiorentini. Thanks to Anna Tyler for Mcllwrath, Ambra Nepi & Avila Fernandez (Du- giving me this and many past Italy gigs, and omo), Doreen & Carmello (Hotel Scoti), Betti thanks and much love to my favourite travelling Soldi, Coral Sisk (@curiousappetite), Nardia companion, Peter Handsaker, who loves Italy Plumridge (@lostinflorence), Katja Meier, Ilaria as much as I do. & Stella (Mus.e), Mary Gray, Anne Davis, Geor- gette Jupe (@girlinflorence) and Paolo Bresci (Pistoia tourist office). Finally, kudos to my very ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS own expert, trilingual, family-travel research Cover photograph: The duomo (cathedral) in Flor- team: Niko, Mischa & Kaya. ence, Maurizio Rellini, 4Corners Images © Virginia Maxwell Illustrations p74–5 by Javier Zarracina. As always, many locals assisted me in my Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson research for this project. Many thanks to Ilaria BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Crescioli, Elisa Grisolaghi, Serena Nocciolini, Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Sean Lawson, Valentina de Pamphilis, Ro- Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44. dolfo Ademollo, Sonia Corsi, Elena Giovenco, 376 BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND

THIS BOOK Destination Editor Anna Tyler O’Connell, Fionnuala Twomey, Senior Product Editor Simon Williamson This 11th edition of Lonely Elizabeth Jones Cartographers David Planet’s Florence & Tuscany Regional Senior Connolly, Rachel Imeson guidebook was curated Cartographer Anthony Phelan Cover Researcher Naomi by Nicola Williams and re- Product Editor Barbara Parker searched and written by Nicola Delissen Thanks to Imogen Bannister, Williams and Virginia Maxwell. Bailey Freeman, Edwin & The previous edition was also Book Designer Clara Monitto Wendy Gieling, Laura Mazzullo, written by Nicola and Virginia. Assisting Editors Kellie Jenna Myers This guidebook was produced Langdon, Kate Morgan, Lauren by the following: ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 377

Index

A Arezzo 14, 295-303, 298, bank scandal 327-8 breweries 21 abbeys 305 14, 332, 353 baptistries 352 Brigate Rosse 327 Abbazia di Monte Oliveto accommodation 300-1 Battistero di Pietrasanta Brunelleschi, Filippo 77, 354 Maggiore 192, 305, 304 drinking 302 287 Brunello di Montalcino Abbazia di San Galgano festivals & events 300 Battistero di San Giovanni 338, 45 178 food 301 (Florence) 78 budget 17 Abbazia di Sant’Antimo shopping 302 Battistero di San Giovanni Buffalmacco, Buonamico 21 171, 182-3, 186, 171 sights 295-300 (Pisa) 253, 252, 255 bus travel 39, 364, 366 accessible travel 358 tourist information 302-3 Battistero di San Giovanni bushwalking, see hiking (Pistoia) 271 accommodation 36-7, 115, travel to/from 303 Battistero di San Giovanni 162, 360, 37, see also in- art 22-3, 24 dividual locations (Siena) 143 C art galleries, see museums Barga 281-3 cable cars 240 language 369-70 & galleries Basilica di San Francesco canoeing 55, 214, 241 activities 48-55, see art restoration 300 also individual activities, 305, 304 canyoning 286 artists 349, see also agriturismo Basilica di Santa Maria Capoliveri 244-5 Michelangelo agriturismo 13, 36, 47, Novella 88-9, 351, 3, 88, cappuccino 331 Abraham, Clet 111 58, 13 89, 97 Capraia 246 Botticelli, Sandro 71-2, air travel 364, 365 Bassa Maremma 209-16 Caprese Michelangelo 316 349, 348 airports 364 bathrooms 362 car travel 38-9, 364, 366-7, Caravaggio, Michelangelo B&Bs 36 see also road distance albergo 36 73, 216 charts, road trips Alighieri, Dante 117, 321 da Vinci, Leonardo 72-3, beaches 49, 243 car hire 38 Alta Maremma 198-204 304-5 Capraia 246 language 374 Anghiari 302 de Saint Phalle, Niki 213 Elba 240, 241, 242, 244, road rules 39 aperitivo 15, 15 della Francesca, Piero 306 49, 243 Florence 108 safety 361 Apuane Alps 15, 50, 279, di Bondone, Giotto 345, Caravaggio, Michelangelo 280-1, 15 349, 348 Livorno 223 73, 216 aquariums 220-1 di Buoninsegna, Duccio Marina 240 Carnevale 292 aqua-trekking 286 170, 349 beekeeping 51 Carrara 284-6, 274-5 archaeological sites Fra’ Angelico 349, 348 beer 21, 185, 288 Casentino Valley 307-13 Chiusi 193 Fra’ Filippo Lippi 71, 354 Belvedere 233 231 Cortona 313 Machiavelli, Niccolò 323 bicycle travel, see cycling Castellina in Chianti 163-4 Golfo di Baratti 233-4 Uccello, Paolo 71 birdwatching 214 castello 36 Grosseto 212 Vasari, Giorgio 80, 81, Black Death 321, 323 Castello di Verrazzano 160 Pitigliano 205 299-300, 347 boat tours 223 Castelnuovo di Garfagnana 237 arts 344-56, see also boat travel 365, 366 279-81, 274 San Vincenzo 229 literature Boboli Garden 106, 112 Castiglion Fiorentino 312 Sorano 208 Assisi 301, 304 Bocelli, Andrea 283 Castiglioncello 227-8 Sovana 207 ATMs 360 Bolgheri 228-9, 230-1 castles Vetulonia 203 291 Bonaparte, 324 Bolgheri 228 Volterra 177 booking services 37 Castello dei Conti Guidi books, see literature architecture 171, 344-56, B 311 352-3 Badia a Passignano 158-62 border crossings 364 Castello di Brolio 166 Bagni di Lucca 283-4, 303-7 15 Castello di Romena 310-11 Bagni San Filippo 190 Botticelli, Sandro 71-2, Map Pages Castello di Verrazzano 160 000 Bagnone 291 349, 348 Photo Pages 000 Fortezza Medicea 154 ballooning 53, 162, 54 boutique hotels 36 378 castles continued Chiesa di San Nicola Lucca 265 electricity 359 Monteriggioni 174 255, 255 Montepulciano 190 emergencies 17 Rocca Aldobrandesca 232 Collegiata 167, 171, 170, Cypress Alley 230 language 372 Rocca Ariostesca 279-80 353 Enfola 241 cathedrals, see churches & duomo (Florence) 9, enoteche 47 76-9, , D cathedrals 8 76 da Vinci, Leonardo 72-3, Eremo Francescano Le INDEX INDEX Cattedrale di San Cerbone duomo (Pienza) 185 354-5 Celle 305, 313-14, 304 198, 211 duomo (Pisa) 252-3, 252 dangers 361 etiquette 19, 335 Cattedrale di Santa Maria duomo (Siena) 142-3, 117, 321 Etruscan Coast 227-34

, C- del Fiore 76-9  142 352 David 90, 99, 90, 349 Etruscans 318-19, 344

F Cecchini, Dario 165 Pieve di Romena 311  debit cards 360-1 Etruscan Wine & Oil Road cell phones 361-2 Pieve di Soprano 290 design 332 230-1 central coast 60, 217-46, Santuario della Madonna di Bondone, Giotto 345, events, see festivals & 218-19 di Montenero 220 events 349, 348 accommodation 217 Santuario di Santa Maria exchange rates 17 disabilities, travellers delle Grazie 311 children, travel with 57-8 with 358 Città del Tufo 204-9 food 43-4, 217 discount cards & tickets highlights 218-19 city wall (Lucca) 261 358-9 F family travel, see children, itineraries 221 city wall (Pisa) 251 Chiusi 193 travel with road distances 217 climate 16, 358 Florence 69 farming 329 central Tuscany 59, 137-94 climate change 365 Lucca 261 fashion 332 accommodation 137 coffee 112, 331 Pistoia 271 ferries 365, 366 children, travel with 57 Colle d’Orano 241 Portoferraio 237 festivals & events 12, food 44, 137 Collegiata 167, 171, , 170 San Gimignano 174 25-8, 12 353 highlights 138-9, 138-9 Sansepolcro 303 Chianti 168 Colline Metallifere 202 itineraries 141 Siena 148 food 25, 28 cooking courses road distances 137 Volterra 176 Palio 27 Barga 283 cheese 336, 337 diving 54, 241, 246 White Carrara Be Tuscan for a Day 156 Chianti 10, 156-67, 158, driving licences 366 Downtown 21 11, 23 Lucca 266 driving tours, see road wine 156 accommodation 162 Montepulciano 190 trips Fetovaia 241 driving tour 160 Siena 149 duomo (Florence) 9, 76-9, Fiat 500 110 festivals & events 168 Corridoio Vasariano 20, 8, 76 Fiesole 134 86, food 164, 165 70 duomo (Pisa) 252-3, 252 Filetto 291 hiking 51 Cortona 313-16, 314, 304 duomo (Siena) 142-3, film 343 shopping 163 Costa degli Etruschi 227-34 142, 352 Flagellants 320 credit cards 360-1 children, travel with 36, Florence 59, 62-136, 82-3, culture 329-32 56-8, 154 E 92, 100-1, 104, 106-7, Chiusi 193-4, 2 currency 361 eastern Tuscany 60, 294- 8, 11, 41, 70, 73, 76, churches & cathedrals 352 customs regulations 358 316, 296-7 79, 80, 88, 89, 90, Basilica di San Francesco cycling 39, 48, 51-3, 365 accommodation 294 112, 96 305, 304 Arezzo 14 children, travel with 58 accommodation 62, Basilica di Santa Croce bike hire 52 food 294 111-17 98-101 Capraia 246 highlights 296-7 activities 108 Basilica di Santa Maria Carrara 284 itineraries 295 Boboli 67, 104-8, 116-17, 122-3, 129, 133 Novella 88-9, 351, 3, Chianti 157 road distances 294 , , children, travel with 57 88 89 97 e-bike rental 39, 157, 190, e-bike rental 39, 157, 190, Cappella Bacci 295-8 214, 365 214, 365 discount cards 69 Cattedrale di San e-bikes 20, 52 e-bikes 20, 52 drinking 123-9 Cerbone 198, 211 duomo area 66, 68-86, Elba 245, 246 Elba 60, 217, 234-45, 236, Cattedrale di San 111-14, 117-18, 123- events 26, 28, 168 242, 243 Martino 261 4, 130 language 374 beaches 240, 242, 243, Cattedrale di San Zeno entertainment 129 Parco Regionale della 244, 49 270 festivals & events 110-11 Maremma 214 children, travel with 58 Cattedrale di Santa food 43, 62, 112, 117-23, Pisa 260 food 44, 242 Maria del Fiore 76-9 124, 126, 127, 130 cycling tours 53 hiking 51 highlights 64-5, 64-5 Chianti 157 history 234 history 63 Map Pages 000 Florence 110 travel to/from 235 itineraries 68, 93 Photo Pages 000 Garfagnana 286 travel within 235 medical services 135 379 museum tickets 95 La Foce 191 Italian language 369-74 M neighbourhoods 66-7, Lucca 265 itineraries 29-35, 29, 30, Machiavelli, Niccolò 323 66-7 Monte Amiata 202 32, 33, 34-5, see also Magazzini 239-40 nightlife 123-9 Pian della Fioba 282 road trips Magliano in Toscana 215 Oltrarno 67, 103-4, 115- Pisa 259 central coast 221, 230-1 maps 39, 360 16, 121-2, 127-8, 132-3 central Tuscany 141 Pistoia 270 marble 285, 274 Piazza della Signoria eastern Tuscany 295 INDEX Siena 145 marble mountain 285 area 66, 68-86, 111-14, Fiesole 134 117-18, 123-4, 130 Garfagnana 279, 280-1, 274 Marciana 240-4 Florence 68 police 135 gay travellers 360 240-4 northwestern Tuscany 251  F-M San Lorenzo 66, 87-98, gelateria 47, 122, 44 Marina di Campo 244 Pisa 250  Giardino di Boboli 106, 112 markets 11 ,125-6 ,118-19 ,114-15 southern Tuscany 199 132 Giglio 246 Arezzo 302 San Marco 66, 87-98, Golfo di Baratti 233-4 Florence 129-30, 132, 41, 114-15, 118-19, 125-6, Gorgona 246 K 43, 96 132 government 327 kayaking 55, 241, 286 Livorno 226 San Miniato al Monte 67, Grand Tour 355 Pisa 251 104-8, 116-17, 122-3, 129, 133 Greve in Chianti 156-7, 161 L Pistoia 270, 276, 275 Santa Croce 67, 98-103, Grosseto 212-13 La Biodola 241 San Gimignano 172 115, 119-21, 126-7, 132 Gucci 85, 327 283 Siena 155 Santa Maria Novella language 19, 47, 369-74 Marozia 319 66, 86-7, 114, 118, H Lari 278 Massaciuccoli 53 124-5, 131 Habsburgs 323, 324, 325 Leaning Tower 252, 253, Massa Marittima 198-202, shopping 129-32 health 359-60 254-5, 23, 254 200, 12, 211 sights 68-108 hiking 50-1 legal matters 119, 360 Matilda of Tuscany 319 tourist information 135 Capraia 246 LGBTIQ+ travellers 360 measures 362 tours 108-10 Elba 241, 245 literature 341-3 Medici family 71, 86, 220, travel to/from 135 Giglio 246 food 45, 332 321-2, 323, 351 travel within 135 highlights 48, 49 history 326, 328 Anna Maria 25, 110 walking tours 109, 109 Monte Argentario 216 memoirs 342 Cosimo I 80, 81, 220, 234, 321-2 food 22, 41-7, 333-40, northwestern Tuscany Tuscan life 329, 330 359, 43, 58, 96, 337, 286 Livorno 220-7, 222, 224 Eleonora 81 see also individual Parco Regionale della accommodation 223-7 events 25 locations Maremma 214 activities 223 Giovanni 80 books 332 history 318-28 drinking 226-7 history 63 festivals 25, 28 books 326, 328 entertainment 227 Lorenzo 322, 354 highlights 335, 336 Elba 234 food 224-6 portraits 72, 86 language 47, 370-4 Florence 63 history 220 Medici sights literature 45 Livorno 220 nightlife 226-7 Basilica di San Lorenzo meal types 45 94-5 Pisa 250 sights 220-3 tours 46, 286, Biblioteca Medicea 46 Siena 140 tourist information 227 truffles 13, 47 Laurenziana 94 Volterra 175-6 tours 223 Fortezza del Girifalco 314 Fra’ Angelico 349, 348 holidays 361 travel to/from 227 Galleria degli Uffizi 70-5 Fra’ Filippo Lippi 71, 354 horse riding 54, 156, locanda 36 frescoes 350 214, 232 Museo delle Cappelle Lucca 14, 261-70, 262, Medicee 87-92 hot springs, see spas & hot 14, 274 springs Palazzo Medici- G accommodation 265-7 Riccardi 94 Gaiole in Chianti 165-7 discount tickets 261 meditation 51, 203 Galileo Galilei 85, 322-3 I drinking 268-9 Michelangelo 349, 354 Galleria degli Uffizi 9, 20, ice cream 47, 58 food 267-8 birthplace 316 70-5, 327, 74-5, 70, 73, Il Mugello 51 nightlife 268-9 David 90, 99, 90, 349 74, 75, 113 immigration 364 shopping 269 Fondazione Casa Galleria dell’Accademia Innamorata 241 sights 261-5 Buonarroti 102 90-1, 9, 90, 91 insurance tourist information 269 Galleria degli Uffizi 72 galleries, see museums & car 367 tours 265 Galleria dell’Accademia galleries health 359 travel to/from 269 90-1 gardens 24 travel 360 travel within 269-70 Museo del Bargello 98 Florence 102, 106, internet resources 17, 21, Museo delle Cappelle 112, Lunigiana 292-3 112 37, 38, 49-50, 360 Medicee 87-92 Giardino dei Tarocchi 213 Pietà 79 380 Michelangelo continued Galleria dell’Accademia newspapers 362 Piazza del Campo 10, tomb 98 90-1, 90, 91 northwestern Tuscany 60, 141-4, 10, 31, 170 Tribuna di Museo Archeologico e 247-93 Piazza della Passera 121 Michelangelo 79 d’Arte della Maremma accommodation 247 Piazza della Sala 276, 319, 320, 212 children, travel with 58 275 345-6 Museo Archeologico food 43, 247 Piazza della Signoria 85 Etrusco di Chiusi 193 INDEX INDEX mobile phones 361-2 highlights 248-9, 248-9 Piazza Grande 298, Museo Civico 140-1, 303 Mocrone 291 itineraries 251 14, 353 Museo del Bargello 98 monasteries 305 road distances 247 Piazza Matteotti 244 Museo delle Cappelle M-P Basilica di Santa Maria pickpocketing 361  Medicee 87-92 Novella 88-9, 351, 88, picnic 268, 276

Museo delle Sinopie 253 O  89, 97 Pienza 183, 184-7 Museo dell’Opera 143, olive oil 230-1, 339 Eremo Francescano Le 170 Pietrasanta 287-9 Celle 305, 313-14, 304 Museo dell’Opera del opera 283 Pisa 250-60, 256, 15, 23, Sacro Eremo e Monas- Duomo 79, 79 Orbetello 215 252, 254, 255 tero di Camaldoli 305, Museo Diocesano d’Arte Origo, Iris 191 accommodation 257 312-13, 31 Sacra Volterra 21, ostello 36 drinking 258-9 Santuario della Verna 176-7 osteria 45 festivals & events 256-7 305, 309-12, 305 Museo Diocesano di Arte Otone 239-40 money 17, 360-1, see also Sacra 313 food 258 discounts cards & Museo di Palazzo history 250 tickets Davanzati 68-9 P itineraries 250 palaces 353 moneychangers 361 Museo di San Marco nightlife 258-9 Palazzo Borgia 185 Montalcino 180-4 92-3 sights 250-1, 259 Palazzo Comunale 167-8, Monte Amiata 202-3 Museo Etrusco tourist information 260 Guarnacci 176 353 Monte Calamita 246 travel to/from 260 Museo Novecento 86 Palazzo degli Uffizi, see Montecatini Terme 264 travel within 260 Museo Villa Napoleonica Galleria degli Uffizi Montefioralle 159 di San Martino 237 palazzo hotel 36 Pistoia 270-7, 272, 275 Montepulciano 183, 187-93, Palazzo Comunale 167-8, Palazzo Medici-Riccardi 94 Pitigliano 204-7, 2, 210 188 353 Palazzo Pfanner 263 pizza 126 accommodation 190-1 Vernaccia di San Gimig- Palazzo Piccolomini 185 pizzerias 45 drinking 192-3 nano Wine Experience Palazzo Pitti 105, 112 plague 321, 323 festivals & events 190 168 145, planning 48, see also food 191-2 individual regions music festivals 171, 170 nightlife 192-3 accommodation 36-7 Cortona 314 Palazzo Vecchio 80-1, , sights 187-8 80 Florence 120 96, 113 budgeting 17, 36 tourist information 193 Lucca 264 Palio 27, 144 calendar of events 25-8 tours 190 Massa Marittima 199 Panzano in Chianti 161, 165 children, travel with 56-8 travel to/from 193 Pistoia 273 Parco Nazionale dell’Arci- first-time visitors 18-19 Monteriggioni 174-5 San Gimignano 169 pelago Toscano 52, 235 food 41-7, 42 Morcone 241 Siena 149 Parco Nazionale delle internet resources 17 motorcycle hire 366 Mussolini, Benito 327, 325-6 Foreste Casentinesi 52, itineraries 29-35 motorcycle travel 364, 309-13 repeat visitors 20-1 366-7 Parco Regionale della travel seasons 16 Mura di Pisa 21, 251 N Maremma 53 national parks & reserves Tuscany basics 16-17 Museo dell’Opera del Parco Regionale delle Alpi 23-4, 52-3 Tuscany regions 59-60 Duomo 79, 79 Apuane 52, 279 Oasi WWF Laguna di Poggio 240-4 museums & galleries Parco Regionale Orbetello 215 Ponte Vecchio 103, Antico Palazzo dei Migliarino 53 96 Parco delle Biancane Vescovi 270 Pareti 241 Pontremoli 292-3 202 Complesso Museale parks, see gardens Poppi 307-9, 311 Parco Nazionale dell’Arc- di Santa Maria della 245, 242 ipelago Toscano passports 364 Scala 144 52, 235 pasta 278, 334 Portoferraio 235-9 Galleria degli Uffizi 9, 20, Parco Nazionale delle pensione 36 postal services 361 70-5, 327, 9, 70, 73, Foreste Casentinesi phonecards 362 Prato 288 74, 75, 113 52, 309-13 Pian della Fioba 282 Pratovecchio 309 Parco Regionale della Pianosa 246 Procchio 241 Maremma 53 piazzas 353 public holidays 361 Parco Regionale delle Map Pages 000 Piazza dei Miracoli 15, Puccini, Giacomo 27, 264 Alpi Apuane 52, 279 Photo Pages 000 252-3, 15, 252 nature 23-4 381 R Siena 59, 140-56, 146-7, telephone services 361-2 Vespa 51, 260, 332, 332 Radda in Chianti 164-5 150, 10, 31, 142, 170, Tenuta Argentiera 231 Vetulonia 203-4 rafting 55, 108, 286 352 time 362 via cava 205, 210 Red Brigades 327 accommodation 149-52 language 373 Via Francigena 50, 175, Renaissance 321 activities 149 tipping 19, 361 290-1 reserves, see national children, travel with toilets 362 Viareggio 264, 289-92 parks & reserves 57, 154 tourist information 362 Villafranca di Lunigiana 291 INDEX rifugio 36 courses 149 tours villas 266 ristorante 45 drinking 153 boat 223 Vino Nobile di

-road distances charts 7, festivals & events 144, cycling 53, 110, 157, 190, Montepulciano 339  R see also individual 149 265, 286 visas 362-3  Y locations food 44, 152-3 Fiat 500 110 Volpaia 166 history 140 road rules 367 food 286 Volterra 175-9, 176 road trips 23, 40, 46, museum discount nature 286 tickets 148 40, 46 photography 51 Casentino Valley 310-11, nightlife 153 W Siena 149 walking, see hiking 310-11 shopping 153-5 Vespa 51, 260 walking tours Chianti 160-1, 160 sights 140-9 walking 109, 110, 212 Florence 109, 110, 109 Etruscan Wine & Oil tourist information 155 towers 24, 57 Grosseto 212 Road 230-1, 230 tours 149 Campanile della water 360 northwestern Tuscany travel to/from 155 Cattedrale 270 282 travel within 155-6 water sports 48, 54, 55, Leaning Tower 252, 253, 246 Val d’Orcia 182-3, 182 slavery 220 254-5, 23, 254 weather 16, 358 Via Francigena 50, 175, Slow Food 333 Torre di Frederico II 278 websites, see internet 290-1, 290 smoking 362 Torre Guinigi 263 resources wine & oil roads 340 snorkelling 54, 241, 246 train travel 39, 364-5, weights 362 Rocca d’Orcia 183 Sorano 208-9 367-8, 368 white-water rafting, Romans 318, 319 Sorgente 241 trams 367 see rafting rooftop bars 128 southern Tuscany 59, transport 38-40 wine 22, 338-40 195-216 running 50, 149 trattoria 45 Brunello di Montalcino accommodation 195 travel to/from Tuscany 181, 45 S children, travel with 57 364-5 Chianti 160-1, 167, 339, Sacro Eremo e Monastero food 44-5, 195 travel within Tuscany 365-8 160 di Camaldoli 305, highlights 196-7, 196-7 language 373-4 classifications 338 312-13, 31 itineraries 199 trekking, see hiking festivals & events 28, safety 361 road distances 195 tripe 120 156, 190 sailing 55 Sovana 207-8 truffles 13, 47, 279, 13 Vernaccia di San San Casciano in Val di Pesa spas & hot springs 55 Tuscan Archipelago 234-46 Gimignano Wine 162-3 Bagni di Lucca 284 Experience 168 San Galgano 178 Bagni San Filippo 190 wineries 20 U San Gimignano 12, 167-74, Montecatini Terme 264 Brunello 181 172, 5, 12, 44, 170, Uffizi Gallery 9, 20, 70-5, Castello di Ama 161 San Vincenzo 229 327, , , , , , 353 74-5 9 70 73 74 Castiglioncello 227-8 Sassetta 234 75, 113 San Miniato 277-9 Chianti 167 Saturnia 206, 210-11 Unesco World Heritage San Pellegrino in Alpe Sites 140, 179, 185, Gaiole in Chianti 165-6 282 Stia 311 331, 353 La Regola 229 San Quirico d’Orcia 183 Strada del Vino e dell’Olio Costa degli Etruschi Montepulciano 188-9 San Rossore 53 230-1, 230 Petra Wine 231, 232 San Vincenzo 229-32 V summer solstice 51 vacations 361 San Casciano in Val di Sansepolcro 303-7 Pesa 162 sunsets 242 vaccinations 359 Sansone 241 Scansano 209 surfing 55 Val di Chiana 313-16 Santuario della Verna 305, Sovana 207 Suvereto 231, 232-3 Val d’Orcia 10, 179-87, 309-12, 305 Tenuta Argentiera 229 swimming 223 182, 10 Savonarola 322 Tenuta La Chiusa 239 food 184 Schiopparello 239-40 World War I 325 road trip 182-3 scooter hire 366 T World War II 326-7 sculpture parks 346 taxes 37 Vasari Corridor 20, 86, 70 self-flagellation 320 taxis 367 Vasari, Giorgio 80, 81, 299- 300, 347 Y shopping 163 T-bone steak 334 Teatro del Silenzio 283 Versilian Coast 286-92 yoga 51, 108, 203 SORINA CHIRITA

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Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro station Beach/Desert Hut/Shelter Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) Eating S-Bahn/Subway station Glacier Taxi Drinking & Nightlife T-bane/Tunnelbana station Mudflat Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Park/Forest Cafe Tram U-Bahn/Underground station Sight (Building) Entertainment Other Transport Sportsground Entertainment Swamp/Mangrove Shopping Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

OUR WRITERS Nicola Williams Florence, Central Coast & Elba, Northwestern Tuscany Border-hopping is a way of life for British writer, runner, foodie, art aficionado and mum-of-three Nicola Williams, who has lived in a French village on the southern side of Lake Geneva for more than a decade. Nicola has authored more than 50 guidebooks on Paris, Provence, , Tuscany, , Italy and Switzerland for Lonely Planet and covers France as a destination expert for the Telegraph. She also writes for the Independent, Guardian, lonelyplanet.com, Lonely Planet Magazine, French Maga- zine, Cool Camping France and others. Catch her on the road on Twitter and Instagram at @tripalong. Nicola also wrote the Plan, Understand and Survival Guide sections.

Virginia Maxwell Siena & Central Tuscany, Eastern Tuscany, Southern Tuscany Although based in Australia, Virginia spends at least half of her year updating Lonely Planet destination coverage across the globe. The Mediterranean is her major area of interest – she has covered Spain, Italy, Turkey, Syria, Lebanon, Israel, Egypt, Morocco and Tunisia for Lonely Planet – but she also covers Finland, Bali, Armenia, the Netherlands, the US and Australia for Lonely Planet products. Follow her on Instagram and Twitter at @maxwellvirginia.

Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona- 11th edition – February 2020 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the ISBN 978 1 78701 415 2 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum © Lonely Planet 2020 Photographs © as indicated 2020 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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