Barga Summer Guide What, When & Where
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IN ENGLISH VERSIONE ITALIANA SUll’altro lato inBARGA EVENTS • PLACES • FOOD & DRINK • accommodation • SHOPS & serviCES BARGA SUMMER GUIDE WHAT, WHEN & WHERE 2020 EDITION Il Giornale di BARGA VisitBarga.com arga is a pearl set in the Serchio Valley: Ba place of unique beauty that touches us profoundly. Its history is linked to that of the Poet Giovanni Pascoli who lived here and wrote some of his most famous poetry. But it also goes back many centuries and is reflected in the charm of our medieval town. This year “InBarga” has been adapted to the Coronavirus period that has overturned many moments and routines of our daily life and has forced us to re-plan all the events. We want to give you, for this reason, the opportu- nity to discover in these pages, a way to spend an unforgettable and alternative holiday in Barga despite these difficult moments. We invite you to wander around the streets and lanes completely absorbed in history, charm, sounds, scents, colours and welcom- ing warmth of the people. You will discover for sure why Barga and the surrounding places have always been a favourite destination for artists in search of inspiration and of a special Eden. You will fall in love with it too. inBARGA SUPPLEMENT TO IL GIORNALE DI BARGA NUMBER 835 DEL MAGGIO 2020 VIA DI BORGO, 2 – 55051 BARGA LU EXECUTIVE EDITOR: LUCA GALEOTTI TEXTS: SARA MOSCARDINI ENGLISH TRANSLATIONS: SONIA ERCOLINI GRAPHIC AND LAYOUT: CONMECOM DI MARCO TORTELLI PUBLISHING: SAN MARCO LITOTIPO SRL, LUCCA WITH THE CONTRIBUTION OF Società Benemerita Giovanni Pascoli Fondazione Cassa di Risparmio di Lucca KME Fondazione Giovanni Pascoli Fondazione Ricci Onlus WITH THE PATRONAGE OF Comune di Barga Publication financed by the companies present 2 inBARGA SUmmER 2020 ITINERARIES BARGA: A HISTORICAL BEAUTY ����������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 4 HISTORICAL CENTRE��������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 8 CHURCHES ��������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 10 MUSEUMS AND EXHIBITION CENTRES ������������������������������������������������������������������������������������ 12 HOUSE MUSEUM GIOVANNI PASCOLI ������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 14 HELICOPTER TOUR ���������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 16 TREKKING����������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 18 VAGLI PARK �������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 19 BIKE CIRCLE ������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 20 CURIOSITIES ������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 22 AROUND BARGA ������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 23 EVENTS EVENTS IN THE TERRITORY ���������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 24 FOOD & DRINK LOCANDA ALLA POSTA ��������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 35 PATISSERIE LUCCHESI ����������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 36 RESTAURANT LA PERGOLA ��������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 37 L’OSTERIA ���������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 38 EAT VALLEY �������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 39 BARS, PIZZERIAS & RESTAURANTS ���������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 40 ACCOMMODATION I CEDRI ��������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 42 ROOM RENTAL COLETTI �������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 43 HOTELS & BED AND BREAKFAST ������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 44 SHOPS & SERVICES BUSINESS DIRECTORY ���������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 45 inBARGA SUmmER 2020 3 BARGA A HISTORICAL BEAUTY History, uniqueness, independence and beauty: he city of Barga rises on a hill in the during the Middle Age. To protect itself Theart of Serchio Valley, a green corner from wars and invasions, in 1332 Barga of authentic Tuscany between the Apennine took a decision that made the difference: mountains and the Apuan Alps. it voluntarily submitted to the city of Flor- Its streets and buildings tell us of a long ence. This was powerful enough to guaran- and important history. This area was al- tee Barga protection and, at the same time, ready inhabited in ancient times by the far enough to preserve its independence. Ligurian-Apuans and the Romans. Barga Moreover, Florence agreed to give it the sta- began to take shape in the Langobardic age. tus of duty free area. Its name would derive from the Germanic Barga was a Florentine island between word “Berg” which indicates a place located the Republic of Lucca and the area ruled by in high. the Este family for five centuries, until the years of the Unification of Italy. A FLORENTINE ISLAND IN THE LUcca AREA This peculiar link with Florence left signs Barga geographical position has marked in the local society, economics, religious life, its history. This area was a forced passage architectural and artistic heritage (for ex- from Po Valley to Tuscany, that caused war ample, the Robbian altarpieces present in between the nearby cities of Lucca and Pisa town). BELOW: THE DUOMO AND CASTLE OF BARGA. OPPOSIT: BARGA IN THE 500S FROM THE FLORENCE STATE ARCHIVE; A SUGGESTIVE VIEW OF THE RIPA ARCHES BUILT IN THE 30S OF THE 1900S. 4 inBARGA SUmmER 2020 BARGA A HISTORICAL BEAUTY the charm of Barga Barga is different from all the other vil- lages in the Serchio Valley. It seems almost a small capital, a piece of city in the moun- tains. Its compact and well-defined urban space has been perfectly preserved over the centuries. BARGA AND EMIGration Paradoxically, the Unification of Italy had a negative effect on the area. When the borders were opened, the tax privileges stopped and people suffered a sudden im- poverishment. Between the 19th and the 20th century, strong waves of migrations started, particularly towards the United States and Great Britain. Many “barghi- giani” remained in the countries where they migrated. Many others returned to their town, bringing with them traditions and cultural identity of the countries where they moved to. They also took material wealth and this can be still seen today in the “lib- erty” and “eclectic” villas built by them on their comeback. THE Gothic LINE After this phenomenon, Barga continued its existence without troubles, with the ex- ception of the Second World War. Barga lived the drama of the Gothic Line. Numerous signs were left by this dramatic event, especially in the mountain village of Sommocolonia, epicenter of the bloody Christmas battle in 1944. You can see this long history of unique- ness and independence in the town streets. Around the two high streets crossing the VILLA MOORINGS, ONE OF THE VILLAS BUILT BY BARGA EMIGRANTS; historical centre, via di Mezzo and via del REENACTORS DURING A COMMEMORATION AT SOMMOCOLONIA; A Pretorio, there is a web of narrow and sug- RELAXING EVENING IN THE HISTORICAL CENTRE. CONTINUES ON NEXT PAGE > inBARGA SUmmER 2020 5 BARGA A HISTORICAL BEAUTY gestive medieval streets (known as carraie). passing of time, in an arcane but protective Along the “carraie” you can meet imposing atmosphere. palaces and architectures of Florentine and Renaissance inspiration together with small Giovanni PASCOLI and enchanting squares. From the Duomo you can enjoy beautiful sunsets and hear the suggestive sound of the BARGA’S JEWEL bells: a very particular sound that inspired The main monument of the city is the one of the greatest Italian poet of the 20th millennial Duomo. From the churchyard century, Giovanni Pascoli. Pascoli lived in you can see a view of the entire valley. The the nearby town of Castelvecchio for almost imposing and austere aspect of the Duomo twenty years. He took inspiration for his gives it the shape of a fortress. The luminous poetry from the place and its people. Casa and vaste view contrasts with the penumbra Pascoli, which is now a museum, offers a of the interior, rich in works of art such as unique experience of a journey back in time: the pulpit dating back to the 13th century. it has remained exactly as it was when the The surrounding space hosted the signs poet lived there. of civic life such as the Arringo, the parlia- ment of the time, and Palazzo Pretorio, the THE TRADITIONS old municipal palace. We have inherited much knowledge of This area has a fascinating and mysteri- ancient peasant life: cooking traditions, ous history, for the many symbols and for based on typical products like chestnuts, the suggestion of position, aligned with the and