Fall 2016

dig root vegetables sustainability leads some chefs to explore a classical

buy the farm and modern Wisconsin-style fish fry sizzle The American Culinary Federation features Quarterly for Students of Cooking NExt Publisher 18 Buy the Farm issue American Culinary Federation, Inc. Sustainability includes helping farmers. Learn how • green restaurant designs Editor-in-Chief four restaurants are fully involved with their farmers Jody Shee and the impact it makes. • heritage meats • food technology Senior Editor 24 Get to the Root of chef Stacy Gammill the Vegetable Graphic Designer David Ristau Root vegetables often are sturdy, nutritious, flavorful and in season at this time of year. Find out what to do with them. Contributing Editors Rob Benes Suzanne Hall 30 Chefs Think Inside the Box Ethel Hammer Discover emerging home meal delivery Amelia Levin chef opportunities—where the company Direct all editorial, advertising delivers meals ready to heat and serve, or and subscription inquiries to: simply the ingredients with recipes. 18 24 30 American Culinary Federation, Inc. 180 Center Place Way St. Augustine, FL 32095 (800) 624-9458 [email protected] departments Subscribe to Sizzle: www.acfchefs.org/sizzle 4 President’s Message

For information about ACF ACF president Thomas Macrina, CEC, CCA, AAC, encourages students to stay sharp certification and membership, and focused. go to www.acfchefs.org. 6 Amuse-Bouche

Student news, opportunities and more. 10 Slice of Life @ACFChefs @acfchefs @acf_chefs Freddy Patrick walks us through a memorable day in his apprenticeship in the employee cafeteria at Hyundai Motor Manufacturing Alabama LLC, Montgomery. Sizzle: The American Culinary Federation Quarterly for Students of Cooking (ISSN 1548-1441), Fall 12 Classical V. Modern Volume 13, Number 3, is owned by the American Culinary Federation, Inc., 180 Center Place Way, Pierre Checchi, Tony Rogowski and Millet Hernandez of Kendall College, Chicago, St. Augustine, FL 32095. Send email address demonstrate two ways of making a Wisconsin-style fish fry meal. changes to Sizzle at sizzlemagazine@acfchefs. net. All rights reserved. Reproduction without written permission of the publisher is forbidden. 36 By Degrees All views and opinions expressed in Sizzle are Learn how to make the perfect poelé from Eric Pellizzari. those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the views and opinions of the officers, employees, contractors or members of the 38 American Regional Flavors American Culinary Federation. Explore the influences of Southwestern cuisine and how chefs are creating interesting dishes using ingredients common to that region. 42 The Interview Todd Ginsberg appreciates the classic New York delicatessen, to which he pays tribute at The General Muir, Atlanta, one of four restaurants of which he is executive chef/partner. 46 The Quiz Read this issue? Now test your knowledge. Cover: Todd Ginsberg, executive chef/partner of 47 Industry Profile four Atlanta restaurants. Julie Dupont owns an ice-sculpting business Photo by Andrew Thomas Lee and teaches. Learn about her fascinating life. Courtesy of The General Muir

2 Sizzle Fall 16 Another Vitamix Aha: triumphant textures.

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Stay Sharp and Focused By Tom Macrina, CEC, CCA, AAC

Dear Students, out of America’s culinary schools. provides news and opportunities for Their poise, professionalism and 18- to 27-year-old chefs. Encourage The start of the school year is a teamwork will take them far in your classmates and co-workers time to refocus and realign your their careers, and I encourage all who are not members to join ACF. goals. Seize the opportunity young chefs to compete. Indeed, They will make lifelong connections to learn from your instructors, competing helped me handle the to help them grow their career and engage with and encourage your challenges as a young chef and gave foster their talent. classmates and surround yourself me confidence in my skills to be a with people whose work ethic you team leader and a team player. I wish you all tremendous success this respect. No matter what track you semester. Stay cooking, students.  choose to follow—whether it’s Further, I want to recognize Yours Truly, pastry or savory chef, fine-dining ACF Culinary Team USA for or fast-casual chef, nutritionist or dedicating time away from work educator—our industry is broad and and their families to compete at the growing fast. Being an ACF-certified Internationale Kochkunst Ausstellung Tom Macrina, CEC, CCA, AAC chef tells employers that you are a in Erfurt, Germany. Although National President American Culinary Federation knowledgeable professional who is America is young, in terms of Product Specialist Manager/Food committed to the craft. culinary history, our melting-pot Fanatics™ Chef culture has contributed to the rapid US Foods, Inc., Philadelphia Congratulations to the student success of the U.S. culinary scene. competitors at Cook. Craft. Create. Please wish the team good luck using in Phoenix. It makes me proud to the hashtag #ACF4Gold on Twitter, see our next generation so avidly Find us at: Facebook and Instagram. @acfchefs involved in this great organization. ACF Chefs This year’s student champions prove Finally, I encourage all young chefs to that top culinary talent is coming join ACF Young Chefs Club, which WeAreChefs.com

4 Sizzle Fall 16 Here’s to you for loving what you do.

Nationwide® salutes your commitment and passion for being an ACF member.

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News & Opportunities

Winning Young Chefs Stephenson’s winning menu (pictured This year’s Cook. Craft. Create. ACF bottom left) was pan-seared arctic char National Convention & Show in fillet on a char mousseline-stuffed crepe, Phoenix, July 15-19, featured sizzling with a bacon/kale mixture and a char roe talent and impressive teamwork among beurre blanc; a crispy char/shrimp cake the student culinarians. Students topped with smoked char belly and pea/ competed for Student Chef of the Year, celery root puree; and a vegetable medley. Student Team Championship and the Asked about her career goals, Baron H. Galand Culinary Knowledge Stephenson, who is a member of ACF Bowl. These competitors, representing Beehive Chefs Chapter Inc., said that she the best in the nation, exhibited poise eventually wants to break into catering. in their execution, professionalism in their plating and superior culinary The Student Chef of the Year Award competence. This year’s award winners was established in 1987 to recognize are as follows: a student who possesses a high degree of professionalism, skill and passion ACF Student Chef of the Year, for the culinary arts. Since then, the ® sponsored by Custom Culinary award has grown from a national Michelle Stephenson (pictured top winner chosen by voting to an award left), kitchen manager at Station 22 that includes a regional semifinalist Café, Provo, Utah, and graduate of competition and a national cook-off. Utah Valley University, Orem, brought home the gold medal, $1,000 and the ACF Student Team National title of 2016 Student Chef of the Year. Championship, sponsored by The competition required participants Vitamix to execute four portions of a menu The 2016 national winner of the that utilized arctic char in 1 hour and student team competition is the Oregon 10 minutes. Coast Culinary Institute, Coos Bay.

6 Sizzle Fall 16 Representing the ACF Bay Area Chefs the 2016 Baron H. Galand Culinary Association of Oregon (below left Knowledge Bowl. The members of the pictured left to right), team members ACF Beehive Chapter Inc. competed Randy Torres, CEC, AAC, coach; Wyatt against three other ACF regional teams Kosalka, Alana Askew, Jasmine Howard, in a Jeopardy-style competition. In 10 Tesia Campbell (captain), Annie seconds or less, teams answered questions Sargent, Kirsten Burt, Nathan Haritash ranging from culinary nutrition, baking and Del Clark. The team competed and culinary math to Escoffier. against three regional teams and one military team to create a four-course Team members (below right pictured signature menu for the gold medal. left to right) Meghan Roddy, CEPC, assistant coach; Alissa Clarkson, Colleen The winning menu featured curry/ Webb (captain), Julia Green, Emily crab-crusted halibut with creamy Williams and John Thomas, CEC, CCE, seafood fritter, bacon/mushroom head coach. ragout, pea pudding and shellfish sauce; young greens with lemon grass vinaigrette, pickled radishes, compressed cantaloupe, marinated cucumber, cilantro pesto, kaffir ricotta and pink peppercorn/grapefruit sorbet; roasted game hen roulade, herb crepe filled with thigh meat and potato, creamed corn, grilled asparagus and tomatoes, foie gras toast, peach jam and tangy reduction of natural juices; and dark chocolate The competition is named in honor cremeaux with rich butter cake, crispy of past ACF national president Baron pistachio ice cream, warm chocolate H. Galand, CEC, AAC, HOF, who beignet and strawberry selection. championed junior members and The Student Team National encouraged them to get involved in Championship, established in 1992, is their profession outside the kitchen. designed to raise the standards of culinary ACF Young Chefs Club excellence and professionalism and Be inspired and get engaged with other promote camaraderie and educational culinary and pastry professionals. ACF opportunities among students. Young Chefs Club is exploring new and Baron H. Galand Culinary exciting opportunities to benefit young Knowledge Bowl, sponsored by chefs at the regional conferences and American Technical Publishers national convention, including web- and Vitamix based culinary demos and virtual events The team from Utah Valley University in collaboration with other Worldchefs Culinary Arts Institute, Orem, won Young Chefs Clubs from around the www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 7 amuse-bouche news & opportunities

globe. Email [email protected] to Jeffrey Yoskowitz, features more than get involved as a member, mentor or to 100 recipes of home-cooked Jewish sponsor club activities in your chapter. Ashkenazi cuisine and Jewish storefront specialties. The book highlights such Support ACF Culinary Youth Ashkenazi staples as bread, soups and Team USA Follow the hashtag dumplings, along with the history of #ACF4Gold and ACF Culinary Youth Team USA each dish. Additionally, it delves into watch for live updates travels to Erfurt, Germany, for the pickles and food fermentation with a on Facebook, Twitter Internationale Kochkunst Ausstellung recipe for Ashkenazi Kimchi. (IKA), Oct. 22-25, held once every four and Instagram. years. It is one of 20 teams competing Root to Leaf: A Southern Chef in the hot-food and edible buffet Cooks Through the Seasons (Harper categories. ACF Culinary Youth Team Wave, 2015), by Steven Satterfield, USA members are: emphasizes the animal nose-to-tail concept and uses for whole vegetables, ƒƒ Jesus Olmedo, captain, line cook, scraps and all. In 175 recipes, Satterfield Somerset Club, Boston, a member discusses the best pairings for both of ACF Epicurean Club of Boston delicate and hearty vegetables alongside ƒƒ Megan Bamford, pastry cook, a variety of meat and fish. The book Farmington Country Club, includes selection and preparation tips. Charlottesville, Virginia, a member of Old Dominion ACF Chapter Try This ƒƒ Anica Hosticka, apprentice, ACF Aquafaba South Bend Chefs and Cooks The next time you open a can of Apprenticeship Program, University chickpeas, don’t dump that murky liquid of Notre Dame, Notre Dame, down the drain. The viscous liquid is Indiana, a member of ACF South called aquafaba and can be repurposed as Bend Chefs and Cooks Association a vegan substitute to make airy meringues ƒƒ Tracy Morris, pastry cook, Chevy (as in the meringue cookies pictured Chase Club, Chevy Chase, opposite left), mayonnaise, butter and Maryland, a member of ACF Rhode even cheese. Aquafaba is the byproduct of Island Chapter soaking legumes in water for an extended period of time, and when whipped in a ƒƒ Marco Olivares, executive sous stand mixer, it closely resembles the stiff chef, El Paso Country Club, El Paso, white peaks of egg whites or the frothy Texas, a member of Texas Chefs topping on a pisco sour. Association ƒƒ Lydia Ross, CSC, demi chef, Kombucha Chevy Chase Club, Chevy Chase, Kombucha (pictured opposite right) is Maryland, a member of ACF North a lightly effervescent and tart tea drink Carolina Chapter. fermented with scoby bacteria, which means “symbiotic culture of bacteria and Read This yeast.” A scoby is similar to a “mother” The Gefilte Manifesto: New Recipes that is used to make vinegar. Once the for Old World Jewish Foods (Flatiron drink of health foodies in the 1960s, Books, 2016), by Liz Alpern and kombucha has returned to popularity

8 Sizzle Fall 16 among the do-it-yourself fermentation ChefConnect: Chicago, Feb. 5-7 crowd. You can buy kombucha in most Early registration deadline: Dec. 25 health-food and high-end grocery stores, Get your friends and colleagues or you can try brewing your own from together to enjoy three inspiring days either a kit or by making your own scoby. in the Windy City for educational and networking opportunities that explore Watch This new ideas and flavors, enhance your A Taste of History with Chef Walter Staib, skills and introduce you to the best PBS and RLTV, Season Seven chefs in the industry.

2016 Cook. Craft. Create keynote ChefConnect: New York, Feb. 26-28 speaker Walter Staib, president/owner- Early registration deadline: Jan. 15

proprietor of City Tavern Restaurant, Be at the center of all things food, Philadelphia, takes you through fashion and business at the New York history in his TV series that explores Hilton Midtown where you'll learn from America’s culinary beginnings. From culinary trailblazers and renowned chefs, George Washington’s tent, Staib gain hands-on experience in workshops recreates such historic dishes as rustic and demos and discover new inspiration pot-au-feu and whiskey cake, and to ignite your career. explores the origin of featured recipes and ingredients of sophisticated 18th Cook. Craft. Create. National century cuisine. Convention & Show, Orlando, Florida, July 9-13 Upcoming ACF Events Early registration deadline: May 14 Students receive a discount on ACF Join hundreds of chefs for four days of events, where you can earn continuing culinary competitions, cooking demos, education hours, cheer on student a trade show, career fair and educational competitors, network at the career fair workshops. Stay in a world-class resort, visit and meet professional chefs who want theme parks for all ages and visit enticing to help you succeed. and diverse dining destinations.  www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 9 slice of life freddy patrick slice of life

Freddy Patrick

age 19 education Graduated from Stanhope Elmore High School, Millbrook, Alabama, in 2015. I recently completed my first semester in the culinary arts/ hospitality management program at Trenholm State Community College, Montgomery, Alabama. My goal is to graduate with an associate in applied technology degree in culinary arts. I am enrolled in the 2½ year apprenticeship program. why I chose the apprenticeship program Growing up, whenever anyone asked me what I wanted to do, I always said I wanted to be a chef and own my own restaurant. With the apprenticeship program, I thought I would take advantage of the classroom and hands-on work opportunity while I can. work For my apprenticeship, I work in the employee cafeteria at Hyundai Motor Manufacturing Alabama LLC, Montgomery. It is Hyundai’s first assembly and manufacturing plant in the U.S. and employs about 3,000 team members. It operates two cafeterias, and I work in the main cafeteria where there are six food stations: salad, grill, fry, main course, pizza and dessert. most interesting lesson When planning a menu, it’s best to choose items that sell quickly so that the product doesn’t sit on the line and go bad. career plans I know I want to be a chef and own my own restaurant. I’d like to research different geographic areas to determine where I’d like to be, then see what their food is and decide if I can adapt to it.

10 Sizzle Fall 16 6:00 a.m. foodservice operation in the Hyundai 4:30 p.m. I roll over to hit the alarm clock and manufacturing plant, where I have Chaos ensues. Crew members wonder what today will bring. I notice many positions, including dishwasher, start arriving for their break as I’m the quote on the wall, “I can do all cook and server. For my shift prep, I wrapping the corn dogs. The fries things through Christ that strengthens set out dinner plates, cups and trays. quickly run out. I run over to drop me,” Philippians 4:13. 3:30 p.m. more fries in the fryer and realize that their break is almost over already. 6:45 a.m. Craziness begins. My manager looks After a shower and breakfast, I’m around the kitchen, points to me and 4:45 p.m. says, “I need you on grill, the two grill packing my bag for class and work, Meal prep time. I start on my grill men called in sick.” I’m already an and it starts going downhill from special, which is a country fried hour behind schedule, and Hyundai there. I can’t find my book for class or chicken sandwich. With breading crew members’ first break is at 4:30— my chef coat for work. Once I finally involved, it can get messy. Mid- only an hour from now. Catch up? get it all together, I just have an hour breading, my manager informs me That’s not going to happen. to get to school, and I know they are coming earlier than usual for traffic will be heavy. lunch. “So speed it up!” he shouts. 3:45 p.m. 8:00 a.m. I’m at it grilling my hot dogs and 6:00 p.m. I make it to hamburgers. My mind is racing as The early birds start coming, so I start school—just in I rush around making sure I have dropping more chicken tenders and time for a pop everything. I drop my tenders and fries in the grease to keep up with quiz. Great. fries into the grease, and everything the flow. Soon, I’m low on chicken While taking the seems to be under control. tenders. There are none in the cooler test I tell myself beside the grill station, so I rush to that the rest of 4:25 p.m. the freezer as I see a crowd of hungry the day is going My manager walks over, looks around onlookers. Whew! to be great. No and asks, “Where are your corn more mistakes. dogs?” I’m a blank. “I forgot!” For 6:45 p.m. some reason he laughs. “I put them It’s over! I can take a break. My 2:30 p.m. in the oven earlier,” he says. “They manager comes over. “Thank you I’m right on time to should be done by now.” I run to the for running the grill today, the grill my apprenticeship kitchen to grab the corn dogs so I can men will be back tomorrow,” he says. job at Kirro, the wrap them to put on the line. Thank God! www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 11 classical v. modern wisconsin-style fish fry classical v. modern he classic American fish fry lemon confit instead of lemon wedges dates back to the iconic lazy and fried plantains in lieu of chips. T Sunday afternoon fish fries or The end result looked and tasted great “shore lunches” that were popular in and was well thought of, says Checchi. American Roman Catholic communities Evidence of that was the first-place during the Lenten season. Because of Laureate Cup and the gold medal Wisconsin’s large German Catholic with distinction for the highest overall population, the fish fry tradition is kitchen score. Theirs was the only team especially strong in that state, where to receive honors. fishing is a popular recreation. The students’ knowledge of their Having grown up in Wisconsin, this roots helped Checchi oversee the culinary custom was uppermost in development of the award-winning Tony Rogowski’s mind as he helped menu. “I was a conduit to take their plan appropriate dishes to recast with a creativity and ideas and make sure they modern spin for the fourth International were done in a feasible, constructive and Laureate Culinary Cup competition. competitive way,” he says. For example, Last May, he and teammate Millet he pulled from Rogowski’s Wisconsin Hernandez competed against students fish-fry tradition. While Hernandez from Laureate International Universities is originally from the Philippines, she from eight other countries. Rogowski and expressed a love for Southern food, Hernandez, both culinary arts students and Cajun food in particular. Thus, the at Kendall College, Chicago, won the fried plantains in the modern recipe are two-day competition in Panama in which seasoned with a Cajun spice mix. participants were required to prepare four plates to reflect the foods of their country. Preparing for the competition was its own crash course in organization and Rogowski, Hernandez and lead culinary time management, Rogowski says. top: Pierre Checchi coach Pierre Checchi, also of Kendall “One second could be the difference bottom: Tony College, collaborated on the menu between winning and losing.” He and Rogowski and Millet Hernandez that included Wisconsin-style Fish Hernandez also had to imagine anything Dish photos by Fry featuring such twists as fennel and and everything that could go wrong and Tony Rogowski pickled shallot salad in place of cole slaw, think through a solution.

12 Sizzle Fall 16 classical modern Wisconsin-style Fish Fry Crispy Fish Goujonettes With Sides 1. Coated with beer batter, whitefish or Lake Perch are 1. Rice flour gives the battered fish goujonettes a common fish types in Wisconsin. 2. The cole slaw is a “distinctly glassy friability.” 2. Plantain chips seasoned combination of cabbage, mayonnaise, sour cream, with a Cajun spice mix replace the traditional potato sugar, cider vinegar, garlic, carrot, salt and pepper. fries. 3. The idea for the ashen malt emulsion sauce was 3. Sliced russet potatoes for the fries are blanched based on Ash Wednesday. 4. The thinly shaved fennel before added to the deep fryer. 4. The tartar sauce and shallot slaw adds a crisp contrast. includes a little Tobasco sauce for a slight kick. www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 13 classical v. modern wisconsin-style fish fry classical A Wisconsin fish fry might not service as a mess chef in the was not difficult for Checchi, “Respect the classic in order seem the classical fare of which French Air Force, he embarked who says he has always loved to do the modern thing,” he French-born Pierre Checchi is for the U.S. where he worked a fish and chips and has respect says. “Then conceptualize accustomed, but having taught long foodservice career with The for the simple tradition of deep it to be interesting, but also French and American cuisine for Ritz-Carlton, Chicago, a Four frying lake fish dipped in a beer good. Make food done with the past 20 years, he considers Seasons hotel; The Signature batter and served in a basket your heart, with love, not just himself global. Room at the 95th, Chicago; and with the chips, lemon wedges following a trend or a picture. for Aramark in chef positions for and a side of cole slaw. Go deeper. Don’t be afraid. Checchi has worked in the varied dining accounts. You’ll make mistakes. Adjust.” culinary industry for more One might wonder why you than 30 years, having studied He began his teaching career in would take a classic dish like that As he worked together with and trained under the rigorous 1993 at New England Culinary and try to serve it in a modern students Tony Rogowski and and classic French tradition of Institute, Montpelier, Vermont. way. “It’s good the way it is. Millet Hernandez with the apprenticeship. He graduated Now, as a culinary instructor at However, respecting the classic classic underpinnings in mind, from Ecole Sainte-Anne in Kendall College, he teaches such version of any dish is the first Checchi says the experience Saint-Nazaire, France, and soon courses as advanced garnishing step in modernizing it,” he says. was a case of the teacher worked in two-star Michelin techniques and sausage making. inspiring students and students restaurant, Relais-Chateau He advises students not to helping to inspire under the renowned Michel Developing the classical fear changing up classics, the teacher.  Gaudin. After his military Wisconsin-style Fish Fry recipe afraid to make a mistake.

Wisconsin-style Fish Fry Yield: 3 servings Beer batter seasoned flour mixture, then into 1½ oz. pickle relish Ingredients: beer batter. 1 T. chopped onion ½ cup all-purpose flour 4. With a pair of tongs, slowly 2 t. lemon juice ½ cup rice flour immerse fish into oil without Worcestershire sauce to taste 2 t. paprika splashing. Cook to golden Tabasco sauce to taste 1 t. garlic powder brown. Flip filets; repeat. Remove from oil to wire rack or drain on Method: 1 t. onion powder Mix mayonnaise, capers, pickle paper towels. 1 egg relish, onion, lemon juice, Salt and pepper to taste Cole Slaw Worcestershire sauce and Tabasco 6-8 oz. beer, adjusted for consistency Ingredients: sauce until well incorporated. 3 qts. frying oil (use for frying French 18 oz. shredded green cabbage fries as well) 6 oz. mayonnaise French Fries 3 oz. sour cream Ingredients: Fish 6 russet potatoes ¾ oz. sugar Ingredients: 3 qt. frying oil (use for frying fish 1 oz. cider vinegar 1 lb. Lake Perch or whitefish (about as well) 1 garlic clove, minced 6 filets) Salt and pepper to taste ½ cup seasoned flour for dredging 4 oz. shredded carrot 1 lemon, cut into wedges Salt and pepper to taste Method: Method: 1. Cut potatoes ½-inch Method: square lengthwise. 1. Mix together beer batter flours, Mix together cabbage, mayonnaise, sour cream, sugar, cider vinegar, 2. Blanch in 325ºF oil until tender. paprika, garlic powder, onion Drain; reserve powder, egg, salt and pepper. garlic, carrot, salt and pepper until well incorporated. Refrigerate. 3. Deep fry in 375ºF oil until Add beer until smooth; do golden and crispy. Drain, not overmix. Tartar sauce season; set aside. 2. Heat frying oil to Ingredients: approximately 350ºF. 8 oz. mayonnaise 3. Dredge one filet at a time into 1 oz. chopped capers

14 Sizzle Fall 16

classical v. modern wisconsin-style fish fry

modern Something was always cooking or For the Laureate Culinary Cup opportunities to explore the many a lemon confit quenelle contributes baking in Tony Rogowski’s house as competition, he turned to his roots, facets of America’s food culture, tangy and slightly bitter notes. he grew up in Wisconsin. “When my devising a modern spin on the including the Wisconsin Fish Fry.” The idea for the ashen malt emulsion friends came over, it was not always Wisconsin-style Fish Fry, taking Millet Thinking through the dish, sauce was based on Ash Wednesday to see me but, rather, the food that Hernandez on the journey with him. Rogowski notes how the rice flour where ashes were crossed on the came out to the table,” he says. As a young girl growing up in her gives the battered fish goujonnettes penitent foreheads, Rogowski says. Throughout his 7 years in the native Philippines, Hernandez a “distinctly glassy friability.” The The emulsion is a cross between military and while holding various always had an interest in the food two chose plantain chips to replace mayonnaise and hollandaise. non-culinary jobs, food was always of her culture. “When I came to the traditional potato fries, seasoned Rogowski, who is actually allergic to on his mind. After staging in a few America in 2008, I brought that with a Cajun spice mix, “paying fish, thinks the lemon confit is the restaurants, he started his culinary love of food with me, learning about homage to northerly migration from most interesting component to the education at Blackhawk Technical the great variety that American our southern neighbors.” dish. “We put it on the plate in the College in Janesville, Wisconsin, then cuisine has to offer,” she says. “My last week of practice,” he says. “It has transferred to Kendall College where The thinly shaved fennel and shallot experience in the Laureate Cup a nice sweet but acidic flavor. It uses he is working on his bachelor’s degree only served to crystallize everything slaw adds a crisp contrast to the the whole lemon, peel and all.”  in culinary arts. I’ve learned so far, giving me new richness of the fish and chips, while

Crispy Fish 4 oz. malt vinegar 2 egg yolks Fried Plantains 2 t. sugar ½ t. Tabasco sauce Ingredients: 1 t. grenadine syrup 2 t. Spanish sweet paprika Goujonettes 2 semi-ripe plantains 1 large shallot 2 t. vegetable carbon powder 3 qts. frying oil With Sides 1 fennel bulb with fronds Molini Spiggadoro brand Cajun spice to taste (recipe below) Yield: 3 servings Salt to taste Method: Salt to taste Fish 1. Bring water, vinegar, sugar and Method: Ingredients: Method: grenadine syrup to a boil in small 1. Heat vinegar and oil separately. 16 oz. skinless, cleaned fish filets 1. Cut ends off plantains, leaving skin sauce pan. Oil temperature should not (Lake Perch or whitefish) on. (Skin will add to texture and 2. Slice shallot thinly into rings. In exceed 140ºF. final look of plate.) Slice lengthwise container, pour hot pickling liquid 2. In tall container, add egg yolks, Beer batter to ¹∕16-inch thickness on mandolin. over shallot rings. Let steep, cover; then hot vinegar. Blend with Ingredients: 2. Heat oil to 325ºF. Fry slices in oil cool for about 2 hours. hand-held immersion blender or 3 oz. rice flour until lightly colored, stirring in order 3. Slice fennel bulb thinly with in Robot Coupe. Add hot oil until 3½ oz. all-purpose flour to achieve curly appearance. mandolin or meat slicer. Place emulsion forms. 3 oz. modified corn starch 3. Remove slices from oil to wire slices in iced water to keep crispy. 3. Add Tabasco sauce, paprika Salt to taste rack or paper towels. Season with 4. To assemble slaw, drain sliced and vegetable carbon powder 12 oz. beer Cajun spice mix (recipe below). fennel. Add drained pickled until dark color is achieved. 3 qts. frying oil Add salt to taste. shallots for color and texture. Add salt; adjust seasoning and Method: Add chopped fennel fronds and consistency as needed. Cajun Spice Mix 1. Cut fish letsfi into long, thin strips lemon dressing to taste (recipe Ingredients: approximately 4 inches long by below). Adjust seasoning. Lemon Confit ¼ t. oregano Ingredients: ¹∕³-inch thick. Dry strips with paper ¼ t. black pepper 2 lemons towel. Reserve in refrigerator. Lemon dressing ¼ t. onion powder ½ oz. kosher salt 2. Mix together beer batter flours, corn Ingredients: ¼ t. cayenne pepper 1 lemon, juiced ¼ onion starch and salt. Add beer to desired ¼ t. ground thyme 2 T. canola oil 1½ oz. sugar consistency. Do not overmix. Keep ¼ t. garlic powder ½ t. Pernod liqueur ½ cup water cool until ready to use. ¼ t. paprika 3. Heat frying oil to 350ºF. 2 t. chopped fennel fronds Method: 4. Dip each strip in beer batter until Salt and pepper to taste Method: 1. Slice lemons thinly on meat slicer well coated. Lower 2 to 3 strips at Blend together oregano, black Method: for best results. Remove seeds. a time into hot oil keeping them pepper, onion powder, cayenne Mix together lemon juice, canola Place in nonreactive container with separated. Cook to golden brown. pepper, ground thyme, garlic oil, Pernod liqueur, fennel fronds, salt salt and onion. Let cure overnight. Flip each strip once, repeat. Remove powder and paprika. Keep in tight- and pepper. 2. Rinse lemon slices. Place in small quickly to wire rack or paper towels. lid container. saucepot with sugar and water. Malt Sauce Fennel and Pickled Cook on low heat covered for Ingredients: about 15 minutes or until lemons Shallot Salad 3 T. malt vinegar Ingredients: are translucent with consistency 8 oz. canola oil 4 oz. water of chutney. Cool; reserve.

16 Sizzle Fall 16

A sustainability ethos leads chefs to extreme measures in support of farmers. By Amelia Levin farm to grow its own food in 2017, says founder and CEO Adam Eskin.

“The Dig Inn farm will be a living lab for growing food—a place to train farmers and chefs and model our definition of sustainability,” he says. “Budding chefs will have a tangible connection to the seasons—learning to cook the same sweet potatoes they harvest firsthand in our fields. And our onsite research-and-development Inn team will work with fresh heirloom Dig

of

produce to create vegetable-forward dishes. Mostly we want to cultivate

Courtesy a community of families, schools, local organizations, farmers and chefs any chefs and restaurateurs say around a space that inspires, excites and they support local farms, but transforms the future of food.” M others go above and beyond The chain plans to grow vegetables for simply showcasing a few items on their the restaurants, but the farm will mostly menus. They buy out entire farms and be used as a type of lab where staff can crop lines, plan out shares, hire farmers experiment with specialty herbs and and donate funds for equipment and heirloom seed varieties, Eskin says. The other needs. majority of the produce will continue to All this paves paths for these farmers to come from long-standing farm partners experience even more financial growth. to make sure their relationships are still Some chefs see this as the next level economically viable. of sustainability, ensuring that small, In addition to buying a farm, Dig Inn responsible and in some cases, organic, also helped R&R Produce, a family farmers will be able to stick around and farm in Goshen, New York, buy a provide access to delicious food for refrigerated truck and the owners to years to come. attend a two-day learning session on Here are four model operators pushing Good Agricultural Practices (GAP) the boundaries when it comes to certification, a voluntary audit that supporting farmers in life-changing ways. verifies fruits and vegetables are produced, packaged, handled and above: Dig Inn stored as safely as possible to minimize gets apples from Dig Inn risks of microbial food-safety hazards. Migliorelli Farm. Dig Inn, the Manhattan, New York-based opposite: Dig fast-casual chain known for its meals Dig Inn also continues to support Inn gets some crops from that use organic and sustainably grown local farms by buying full volumes Dagele Brothers. ingredients, is in the process of buying a of produce. For example, if the chain

20 Sizzle Fall 16 “overbuys” kale, chefs create another dish using the excess or help resell the surplus on behalf of the farmers.

Historically, farmers have often been burned by buyers who find something cheaper and purchase outside of the contract, Eskin says. “Our company is made up of integral people who are committed to a higher purpose, which means we don’t cut corners, even Inn when it can save us a quick buck. We Dig

of design out menus around our farms, availability and current harvest rather than vice versa. This way our farmers Courtesy have a secure volume and cash flow going into a new season, and we have a to buying 90 lines she planted 10 ways to financially variety of rare and heirloom vegetables.” specifically for the restaurant. This support farmers included everything from heirloom 1. Plan crops with the farmer, committing to buy the full harvest. Magnolia’s at the Mill squash to multiple tomato varieties 2. Help provide necessary equipment as well as various types of potatoes, for a farm by donating funds or in For the past 12 years, Erik Foxx- exchange for some supply. Brussels sprouts, fennel, radishes, Nettnin, executive chef at Magnolia’s 3. Purchase a struggling farm, but beets, heirloom peppers, onion, allow the farmer to continue working at the Mill, Purcellville, Virginia, has cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower and on the farm. committed to buying entire crops from 4. Purchase part of the farm, or a greens. In fact, it was so much produce local farmers to help support their “share,” meaning you pay upfront that he only had to source small for part of the season’s bounty. businesses, even in the midst of a crisis. amounts of other produce, like citrus, 5. Host special dinners and other events with portions of the proceeds “It’s important to maintain a not grown locally. returned to the farm or farmers. partnership with the farmers around 6. Commit to buying more crops from Foxx-Nettnin sat down with the farmer fewer farms overall. you and commit to them no matter and a seed catalogue ahead of the 7. Arrange for direct-supply pick- what. It’s no different than a family or ups, or help negotiate better deals season to choose the crops with plans with smaller, regional distributors, other close relationship,” says Foxx- to note what worked and what didn’t allowing the farms to keep more of Nettnin. Most recently, when a new, so they could make adjustments the the profits. budding farmer suddenly came down 8. Where applicable, purchase whole following year. animals from farms, rather than with a temporary debilitating illness, partial amounts or specific cuts. Foxx-Nettnin continued to work with Regarding the health hiccup, he says, 9. Offer to donate marketing, “Think of it as a family birthday party. accounting or other services you the farm to receive and pay for the already have to smaller, start-up supply as promised. If your family was planning on bringing farms you want to support. dishes and all of a sudden something 10. Resell surplus produce you can’t This was especially important, happened and someone couldn’t use fast enough to other restaurants or set up your own farmers market considering the young farmer had just contribute, you wouldn’t cancel the at the restaurant to sell direct to begun to build her certified organic party. You would just regroup with what customers on behalf of the farm. farm, and Foxx-Nettnin had committed you had or could still get.” www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 21 In the same vein, “In most cases, the farmers we hire need when it comes to more experience or more hours and farming, “You don’t income. This provides a synergy between know what life- our farm and theirs, because we are changing event or able to share knowledge, supplies and rainstorm or other other needs to benefit each other,” says issue could come Sohlberg. “Farming takes a lifetime to and ruin everything learn, so it’s important to be able to share and put off information and not just resources.” production for five For example, the farm manager at days,” Foxx-Nettnin Blenheim also manages her own says. It might stall dairy farm. Since dairy operations the menu roll-out, but it’s the right thing typically require at least 50 cows to be a to still buy the crop when it becomes justifiable business, Sohlberg purchases available or buy other crops to continue her dairy products rather than attempt to support the farmer financially. to run his own dairy operation. Additionally, Foxx-Nettnin is Sohlberg also works with another nearby committed to hosting events that farmer with an apiary who helped set financially support both the restaurant up Blenheim’s beekeeping operation and the farmer. Working with local and shares in some of the returns for farms is about more than receiving the honey. Same thing for maple syrup. a container of stuff and paying an Inc. Sohlberg pays the farmer to help collect invoice, he says. and boil the syrup since he has all the Hospitality Smörgås Chef Restaurant equipment. Additionally, Sohlberg works Cura with a few other farms that produce hay, of Group/Blenheim Hill Farm paying for the supply during the cold When Morten Sohlberg, owner of winter months. Courtesy Smörgås Chef Restaurant Group, purchased the 125-acre Blenheim “Our mission in becoming local Hill Farm in New York’s Catskills farmers is two-fold,” Sohlberg says. Mountains six years ago, he was able “In addition to being good stewards to return the 225-year-old landmark of the land and its resources, we want to full-scale farming, after years of to provide the 300,000-plus guests dormancy. Since then, he has hired we serve each year with natural, local farmers to help run the farm. Yet sustainable and locally grown produce he still remains involved, working at and meat while simultaneously the farm himself three days a week in developing a financially viable model addition to running his Smörgås Chef for small-scale local farming.” restaurants in Manhattan, the Michelin- starred Blenheim in the West Village Cura Hospitality and Crepes du Nord, a casual mini- Cura Hospitality Inc., Orefield, chain with three locations in the city. Pennsylvania, the food and dining

22 Sizzle Fall 16 NExt issue operator for Peter Becker Community, green restaurant designs a senior living and hospital facility in Harleysville, Pennsylvania, recently partnered with Living Hope Farm located just two miles away as the main supplier for its new bi-weekly farmers market available to all residents, employees and guests.

“We incorporated the farmers market in our program of pushing local sourcing opportunities beyond just buying from regional farms,” says Cura Hospitality’s Farm general manager Josh Crandall. Hill

While the farmers market features Blenheim

products from such other local of vendors as a coffee roaster, winery

and artisan food and meat producer, Courtesy Cura Hospitality avoids bringing in competing produce suppliers. on campus. The beekeeper covers the share the bounty upfront cost of maintaining the hives, What started among community members For an educational component, Cura has moved to restaurants. Many farmers but the facility buys back the honey Hospitality hosts cooking demos to participate in community-supported produced to cover those dollars. The agriculture (CSA), in which nearby residents educate shoppers on how to use some honey is primarily used in vinaigrettes purchase “shares” of the farm (similar to of Living Hope Farm’s produce, so shares of a company’s stock) prior to the for local farm salads featuring micro they’re more inclined to buy it. Crandall harvest season, then pick up their weekly greens grown in the main kitchen. bag or box as the season progresses. also takes groups of senior residents on This helps farmers determine how much farm tours so they can learn more about Cura Hospitality’s goal is to source the to plant and provides them with more of a fixed income. Now, many farms—officially the organic operations, hoop house and majority of its produce from Living or unofficially—offer a restaurant-supported composting program and feel a greater Hope Farm in order to support one farm agriculture program (RSA) in which they sense of connection to the cause. more significantly, rather than diversify work with chefs and restaurant owners to plan ahead for the season. funds too widely across many farms. “Living Hope Farm has become a great partner, not just as a primary vendor “I look at it like a bull’s-eye,” Crandall for our farmers market, but also as a says. “There are things we can do main supplier for our restaurants,” says well right in our own kitchen and our Crandall, who often receives calls from community, while also continuing to the farm when there are opportunities look for opportunities beyond that.”  to buy surplus harvest. “I’ll jump opposite from top left: Amelia Levin is an award-winning food 1. Tomato hoop house at in my car and pick up 50 pounds of industry writer, certified chef and cookbook Blenheim Hill Farm. watermelon at the last minute.” author. Her work has appeared in a variety 2. Cura Hospitalty’s weekly of restaurant industry trade magazines as farmers market. Crandall has also been working with a well as in the Chicago Tribune, Health and above: Barn-like event local beekeeper to set up three beehives Cooking Light magazines. space at Blenheim Hill Farm. www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 23 Courtesy of Woods Hill Table Getting to the Root of the Vegetable

The earthy underground vegetables pack a host of flavorful and colorful dish benefits. By Rob Benes It helps that root vegetables also tend to be economical. “Roots have good profit margins for restaurants and are affordable for culinary students to buy on their own and experiment at home,” says Ed Witt, executive chef, The Katharine Brasserie, Winston-Salem, North Carolina.

From a seasonal standpoint, root vegetables are plentiful in the fall and winter, but are easily harvested, stored and used throughout the year. There are even spring and summer root vegetables, like radishes, spring parsnips able T

Hill and fennel, which are paired with spring

and summer above-ground vegetables. oods W

of

life Extenders

Courtesy The sturdy nature of root crops yields root resources everal desirables are leading the extra benefit of extended shelf life, which means you don’t need an Add one of these books to root vegetables out of the cellar your library: and onto restaurant plates. elaborate root cellar to store them. Roots: The Definitive S To stay crisp and fresh, they just need Compendium with more than With a large portion of root vegetables 225 recipes (Chronicle Books, either grown by restaurants in their cool, moist and dark surroundings. The 2012), by Diane Morgan private gardens or sourced from local ideal storage temperature is about 34°F Recipes from the Root Cellar: farmers and farmers markets, they play with high humidity. They store well in 270 Fresh Ways to Enjoy Winter well to the locally grown ethos. “As a hotel pan or covered with saw dust. Vegetables (Storey Publishing, They can even be left in the ground, LLC, 2010) by Andrea Chesman people get away from a supermarket mentality and move toward a more which is the least expensive and most The Essential Root Vegetable local understanding of what to eat, root carefree root storage. Cookbook (Clarkson Potter, vegetables are making a comeback,” says 1991) by Martin Stone Derrick Dollar, Milton’s Cuisine & Charlie Foster, executive chef, Woods Cocktails, Alpharetta, Georgia, has a Hill Table, Concord, Massachusetts. one-acre garden behind the restaurant Additionally, consumers want more food where he grows non-GMO and organic options with health benefits. Many root produce. He leaves root vegetables in vegetables are high in beta carotene, the ground until needed. He notes that vitamin C, minerals and/or dietary fiber. the flavor changes the longer they are in As chefs search for healthful ingredients the ground. For example, parsnips are to improve their recipes, the vivid colors sweeter when they remain in the ground and earthy flavors and textures that some through winter and are pulled in the of these humble varieties offer also can spring than if they are harvested in the lead to dramatic presentations. fall. The vegetable’s moisture evaporates,

26 Sizzle Fall 16 and its natural sugars concentrate with the freezing and thawing of the seasons.

Don’t wash root vegetables before storing them. Wait until just before you use them, Dollar says. However, do trim them before storing. For beets, leave about 1 inch of the stem on the beets so they don’t bleed in cooking. For other Brasserie roots, cut the tops close to the vegetable. Katharine

cooking tips The

of Cooking root vegetables deepens the flavor. Foster celebrates cooked root Courtesy vegetables in several dishes. He prepares them for oven roasting at 350°F any of glace. He serves the vegetable with seared several ways in order to retain moisture. scallops, lardo and snap peas. He may first encase them in a salt dough of half flour, half salt and egg yolk. Other While Witt at The Katharine Brasserie times he encases them in egg white also prefers to oven roast, he opts for dough by whipping eggs whites to stiff boiling, especially beets, if he plans to peaks and adding salt. Or, he may bury puree them in order to add color. He boils parsnips, purees them and adds sage Cocktails the vegetables in salt. Rather than encase brown butter or melted white chocolate and them, he may roast them in a covered pan with minimal vinegar and water. to smooth out the funk in the parsnip Cuisine “When you encapsulate, bury or cover and provide balance when pairing with a protein. “When you boil a white-colored

in a pan, the moisture content cannot Milton’s

of escape when cooking,” Foster says. “So vegetable, add milk to retain its natural the vegetable gets super tender and its white color,” he says. “If boiled just in flavor gets concentrated.” water, it would turn pale or brown.” Courtesy For a vibrant presentation, Witt He makes bisque out of roasted and previous spread: Salad with spring pureed parsnips in the winter. In the combines different colored roasted harvested parsnips at Woods Hill spring, after the parsnips have been in beets, such as golden beets with their Table. Photo by White Loft Studio the ground over the winter, he roasts buttery yellow color and sweet, mild opposite: A salad of red and yellow flavor; chioggia beets known for their roasted beets with tahini, sorrel, sumac them to further concentrate the sugars spiced pine nuts and puffed quinoa at and serves with wood-grilled swordfish. striped red and white interior and Woods Hill Table. Photo by White Loft Studio sweet, mild taste; and albino beets that top: The Katharine Brasserie adds For a favorite kohlrabi preparation, are super sweet with a white flesh. oven-roasted and pureed sweet he cuts the vegetable into long strips potato and grated ginger to crème resembling tagliatelle pasta by using a He coats whole beets with olive oil and brulee custard. Photo by Scott Gardner bottom: Summer vegetables and tosses with pepper corns, coriander, salt, mandoline. He blanches the kohlrabi, root vegetables come together in then puts it in a saute pan with a little rosemary, thyme and garlic cloves. He Milton’s Cuisine and Cocktails’ Chef’s cooking water and butter to make a demi- puts the vegetables into a roasting pan Vegetable Plate. www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 27 pickled Fresno chilies, burrata cheese, roasted golden beets with pickled radish, sundried tomato and herb white balsamic vinaigrette. “People eat with their eyes first, so you want to present something that’s visually appealing first, then followed with amazing flavor,” he says.

liquid and raw uses Turning root vegetables into soup is a no- brainer and helps keep soup gluten free by Becker not having to add a flour and butter roux.

David “Some root vegetables have so much body

of when pureed, they serve as a quasi roux,” Dollar says. He makes a parsnip, andouille Courtesy sausage and goat cheese soup. roasted root vegetables with a small amount of water to develop Juicing is another popular way to make Rob Benes steam, covers and roasts at 350°F until good use of root vegetables, particularly Yield: 8-10 servings fork tender. He rubs the beets with a beets, to add color. Dave Becker, kitchen towel to remove the skin and executive chef/owner, Sweet Basil in Ingredients: 4 medium carrots, peeled, sliced lengthwise cuts into random shapes to plate. Needham, Massachusetts and Juniper 4 medium parsnips, peeled, sliced lengthwise in Wellesley, Massachusetts, makes beet 4 medium golden beets, peeled, cut into In addition to roasting and boiling, random pieces Dollar blanches, slices and grills gnocchi by extracting juice from boiled 4 medium red beets, peeled, cut into beets, then processing in a blender until roots on the flat top or in a saute random pieces smooth and poured through a fine mesh 3 yams, peeled, sliced lengthwise pan to caramelize. He also deep fries strainer. He adds the juice to gnocchi 2 sweet onions, peeled, quartered parsnip ribbons for a garnish and ½ cup white balsamic vinegar dough, resulting in a brilliant fuchsia, deep fries thinly sliced Jerusalem ½ cup olive oil and rolls it into a broad, thick pancake ¼ t. dried rosemary artichokes (sunchokes) to look like shape that he cuts into strips then cubes. ¼ t. kosher salt chips. Because sunchokes have a nutty ¼ t. cracked pepper He rests them in flour until service. sweetness, he also boils and passes Method them through a ricer to make purees 1. In large bowl combine all prepared While cooking root vegetables builds vegetables. Add vinegar, olive oil, rosemary, perfect for soups or a smear on a plate. depth of flavor, serving them raw adds salt and pepper. Toss to combine. “I like serving both versions on one brightness, crispness and freshness to 2. Spread vegetables onto large sheet plate to show their versatility and pan in single layer. Roast in oven at a recipe. 450°F for 30 minutes (without turning different textures,” he says. or stirring) or until vegetables are fork Foster of Woods Hill Table serves tender, well browned and caramelized Dollar also likes to combine summer hickory wood-smoked kielbasa with around edges. vegetables with root vegetables to 3. Remove from oven. Taste; adjust seasoning whole wheat spätzle, fava leaves, caraway as needed. Serve hot or room temperature. provide a contrast of textures, flavors and fennel herb salad. He shaves fennel and colors. His chef’s vegetable plate on a mandoline, combines with fresh includes summer vegetable quinoa herbs and dresses only with olive oil. and farro salad, grilled broccolini with “The fennel is so fresh and crisp that it

28 Sizzle Fall 16 NExt issue heritage meats Becker

David

of

Courtesy needs to shine on its own and not be brighten up dishes. Witt frequently drowned in a full dressing,” he says, “plus, adds fresh grated ginger to sweet potato it’s super sweet and counter balances the puree. “The ginger adds a hidden spicy kielbasa and rich creamy spätzle flavor, but you have to be careful not to that’s coated in crème fraiche.” add too much, because ginger can be overwhelming,” he says. Becker makes charred octopus with a jicama-Granny Smith apple slaw. Horseradish is another root vegetable Initially, the slaw was just apple, but it to grate over a fish or beef dish. would get limp, lack a crisp feature and “Rather than always making prepared was flat on taste. “The jicama provides horseradish, grating it in small amounts a sweet-tasting and crunchy aspect, but adds a pop of flavor,” Witt says. doesn’t take center stage or overshadow Dollar adds grated horseradish into a the apple or octopus.” gremolata, which is classically made

of lemon zest, garlic and parsley to opposite: Gnocchi flavor enhancers accompany veal, lamb and steak dishes prepared by David Becker. Root vegetables do not always have for an extra zip.  above: Gnocchi with beets paired with pesto, to be part of a composed dish. They Rob Benes is a Chicago-based fennel and orange can serve as flavor enhancements. For hospitality industry writer. Contact him segments prepared by example, ginger is commonly used to at [email protected]. David Becker. www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 29

and packaged with recipes. Customers cook the dishes without having to worry about shopping or slicing and dicing the ingredients. In either case, getting a meal on the table is simple.

bright job possibilities Experts agree that the emerging home meal delivery sector addresses the needs of a growing consumer segment that wants quality meals at home but doesn’t have the time, skills or detailed nutritional knowledge to assemble the kind of fare they prefer.

Home meal delivery provided a new career path for Madla and Adler and immy Madla wanted a change. others at the executive-chef level After 12 years of owning from various areas of the foodservice Coobah, a Latin-Asian fusion industry. Madla joined Chicago-based restaurant in Chicago, he needed J Home Chef as executive chef, research more time with his family. Back East, and development. He oversees a team Jonathan Adler wanted to have a bigger of four chefs who create the recipes impact in the culinary world. After a and test the dishes, with recipes and stint at Thomas Keller’s Per Se in New pre-proportioned ingredients shipped York City and eight years with the previous spread: ready-to-cook to customers from the Chicago-based Home iconic Franny’s pizzeria in Brooklyn, Midwest to California. The company Chef develops and sends New York, he felt it was time to feed recipes with all pre- proportioned ingredients people on a national scale. to customers from the Midwest to California. Both chefs turned to home meal delivery, from left to right: a relatively new and fast-growing 1. Jimmy Madla, executive segment of the foodservice industry. chef, research and While individual companies have their development, Home Chef. 2. Jonathan Adler, own process, generally, customers sign culinary manager at New up for seven meals per week to feed two York-based Blue Apron. to four people. The meals arrive weekly 3. Bison available from Top via an express service. Chef Meals in Elmsford, New York. 4. This ramen meal Some home meal delivery services box available from Blue Apron provides customers provide complete meals ready to with the recipe and ready heat and serve. Others deliver the to cook ingredients. ingredients carefully measured, prepped

32 Sizzle Fall 16 plans to expand into the East Coast. Virginia, providing fresh, not frozen “In the 14 months I’ve been with the meals for customers around the company, sales have increased from country. Castelluccio is the back- $4-$5 million a year to $100 million,” of-house leader while Grossman Madla says. handles the financial, managerial and other typical front-of-house Adler signed on at New York-based responsibilities, sometimes Blue Apron earlier this year. He is one lending a hand in the kitchen. of two culinary managers. Working with two additional chefs and four As executive chef, Castelluccio recipe testers with culinary training, oversees a kitchen staff of about the team tests the ready-to-cook eight. These include a chef de recipes before making them available cuisine with a culinary degree, a to customers in the 48 contiguous kitchen manager and cooks with states. “We have a ‘home kitchen’ varying levels of experience. with a four-burner stove, an oven and While it isn’t a requirement, no commercial equipment,” he says, he likes to hire people with adding that his job allows him the culinary degrees. “They are easier to five important home meal pleasure of spending two-thirds of his train,” he says. delivery know-hows time cooking, unlike other positions Quantity cooking: You don’t need to know how to handle 300 covers a outside of restaurants. Ted Colozzi started in the home meal night, but how to produce 3,000 of the delivery industry same meal in a day.

as a chef for Understanding storage: Not all dishes Top Chef Meals lend themselves to lengthy refrigeration in Elmsford, or freezing. You need to know what keeps well and what doesn’t. New York. He now is director Healthy cooking: Home meal delivery customers often have special dietary of customer needs. Know how to cook not just service, working good food but good-for-you food.

closely with Working with a team: There are no president/ solo performers in the home meal founder Paul delivery industry. You must be able to work well with recipe developers, Ghiron. Colozzi testers, food stylists, packaging people interacts and commissary cooks.

After 40 years in restaurants, hotels regularly with the company’s 1,000- Sticking to specifications: While and catering, working his way up from plus customers, half of whom are creativity is welcomed in recipe on special diets, helping them select development, consistency is a key in dishwasher to executive chef positions, this field. You need to know how to Gene Castelluccio decided it was time the meal plan that best suits their follow the recipe exactly. to start his own home meal delivery needs. Prior to joining Top Chef, he company. In 2003, he and business spent many years working as a chef partner Blair Grossman founded in the business-and-industry and Personal Chef To Go, Mechanicsville, institutional segments. His current www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 33 position gives him the satisfaction of restaurants working at as many of helping customers with special stations as possible, experts say. They dietary needs, he says. also should look for opportunities in banquet work and catering. These will the road to success provide experience in both quantity Many chefs working at or near the top cooking and meeting customers’ of the home meal delivery industry have particular preferences. a lot of previous experience. But each is After landing a job in home meal quick to point out that there are places delivery, “you have to understand in the field for younger culinarians who that you are a small part of a much are willing to pay their dues. bigger picture,” Alder says, noting that Experts advise that when it comes newcomers should be humble and to education, classes in a variety of willing to soak up as much knowledge regional and international cuisines and as possible. in quantity cooking are a must. So are It is also necessary to work well sanitation and food safety courses. With with others as a team player and from left to right: ever-increasing consumer interest in demonstrate leadership qualities, 1. Personal Chef to Go, healthful foods, nutrition and healthy Madla says. Mechanicsville, Virginia, cooking also should be among the provides fresh, not frozen curriculum. Business and managerial meals for customers around fringe benefits the country. 2. Southwest training will help cooks and chefs move Given the young age of the companies chicken chili from Personal up the ladder and prepare them to run in the emerging home meal delivery Chef to Go. 3. Cilantro their own businesses. and lime shrimp rice bowl industry, those entering the field from Personal Chef to To meet the needs of companies shouldn’t expect to get rich. Beginners Go. 4. Chicken cacciatore can expect to make about the same sauteed in peppers, like Blue Apron, Top Chef and mushrooms and onions others, would-be workers need to get as an entry level restaurant cook, from Personal Chef to Go. experience in many different types says Madla. Company stock, which

34 Sizzle Fall 16 NExt issue food technology chef

allows employees to profit as the Cooking variety is another job have a look company prospers, is sometimes part advantage. While restaurant chefs often For more information about the home meal of the compensation package. Many perfect a dish, then cook it over and delivery field, check our sources' websites. companies offer insurance and some over again, home meal delivery chefs Blue Apron ships ingredients for prescribed kind of retirement plan. Vacation is cook a different menu every week. recipes in a refrigerated box on the delivery And they don’t often repeat them. That day chosen by the customer with no often included. delivery fee. With a sustainability ethos, the provides good experience in a variety of company prides itself on its relationship with The working hours are one of the cuisines and keeps the job interesting farmers, fishermen and other suppliers. Its biggest benefits of a job in the home smartphone app includes interactive recipe and fun, experts say. pages and how-to videos. meal delivery field, says Madla. “I never realized how wonderful nights, There’s plenty of room for growth and Home Chef promises its customers they upward mobility. Colozzi, who moved can put dinner on the table in less than weekends and holidays were.” 30 minutes. With a “cook easier and eat up from a cooking position to become healthier” tagline, the company boasts “10 “The hours are very attractive since I a member of the management team, is a dinner options, new breakfasts, a fruit basket have a young family. That was one of good example. and a fresh smoothie every week. The chef- driven recipes please both beginners and the selling points of the job,” says Adler. Trained culinarians are needed to cook seasoned cooks.” The company ships the “It’s hard to find culinary jobs where pre-proportioned ingredients and recipes. as well as to develop and test recipes. you can be home at night.” They progress from being a member of Personal Chef to Go operates differently from most other home meal delivery Pleasant working conditions are a a team to leading it. Promoting from companies, shipping fresh, never frozen hallmark of the home meal delivery within is common. ready-to-heat meals packaged in refrigerated shipping containers. Each weekly menu industry. There’s not much room As the segment grows, and all is prepared from scratch by professionally for ego in these kitchens, says trained chefs. Customers select their meal indications are that it will, there will be plan and delivery date online. Castelluccio. “But there isn’t any many opportunities for culinarians at Top Chef Meals also delivers complete meals yelling or screaming either. And  various stages of their careers. throughout the eastern U.S. and focuses there isn’t a lot of pressure or heavily on dietary considerations, including time constraints until 7 p.m. every Suzanne Hall has been writing about weight-loss diet plans and the Paleo diet. restaurants, chefs, food and wine from Thursday when FedEx arrives to pick The meals are packed and express shipped her home in Soddy-Daisy, Tennessee, for in foam-lined cardboard boxes with dry ice up the boxes.” more than 25 years. keeping them safe for up to three days. www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 35 by degrees the perfect poelé by degrees

The Perfect Poelé Article by Eric Pellizzari Photography by D.J. Costantino

chickens, ducks and small joints of meat like selle d’agneau (lamb saddle) or noix de veau (veal top round) were often cooked using this process.

In modern times, this technique is easily adapted in the cooking of smaller à la carte cuts of meats and even fish. The process is as much about control as it is about creativity. Cooking with whole butter requires temperature control, Eric Pellizzari, CEC, CCE ulinary schools throughout which allows for flavor development. culinary and pastry instructor at The the U.S. herald the process and Culinary Institute of New York at C benefits of clarifying butter for Chicken breasts as well as thick cuts Monroe College, New Rochelle. cooking proteins and vegetables alike. of steak, filet mignon and salmon lend However, it can be (and is) argued that themselves well to this easy procedure. the use of whole butter adds flavor and Combining the simple method with simple color beyond what can be achieved ingredients can make a huge impact. through the use of clarified butter. For a transformative result, consider infusing The infusing technique starts with whole butter with aromatic flavor the protein of choice—here, a double elements when cooking proteins. breast of Cornish hen on the bone with the wing bone exposed (referred to as Welcome to the world of the perfect Frenched). Ingredients are whole butter, poelé—a cooking method in which the salt, pepper and a bouquet of fresh protein (traditionally a whole duck or aromatics tied together with a simple chicken) cooks in its own juices with piece of string to keep them together and ample butter and aromatics in a covered out of the extremely hot butter, which pot where it is basted frequently. would cause them to brown and impart This use of infused whole butter is a different, unpleasant flavor. Here, they entrenched in the annals of classical can sit atop the protein to impart their cuisine. Historically, whole game birds, flavor in the basting process.

36 Sizzle Fall 16 Step 1 Step 4 Ingredients 1 Cornish hen breast Prepare mise en place featuring a Cornish With frothed butter, baste Cornish hen skin- Salt and pepper to taste hen breast, salt, pepper, butter, orange peel, side down, keeping bouquet on top of meat. 3 T. butter thyme, rosemary and bay leaf. Cook for a few minutes until skin begins to 1 strip orange peel 1-inch wide by 4-inches brown and crisp. long 2 sprigs thyme 1 sprig rosemary 1 bay leaf

Equipment Cutting board Knife Butcher’s twine Saute pan Large spoon

Helpful Hints Step 5 ƒƒ Cook breast with the bone in for better Step 2 Flip Cornish hen over; repeat, skin-side up. moisture, flavor and shape retention. ƒ Tie together bouquet of herbs with string. With bouquet on top, continue to baste until ƒ Consider the use of such other aromatics hen is completely cooked—about 6 more as sliced ginger, other citrus peels, minutes on moderate heat. lemongrass, cinnamon sticks and green leek strips. Alternate herbs include lavender, oregano, sage and savory. ƒƒ If garlic is used, crush it, but keep the skin on. Let it sit directly in the butter. Allspice berries, juniper berries and star anise can be treated similarly. ƒƒ Use TLC in basting. Baste at least once per minute throughout cooking time. It is easier to underbaste than to overbaste.

Step 3 below: Cornish hen breast served with Heat butter in pan on moderate heat until Step 6 julienned vegetables, tourné potatoes butter begins to froth and just starts to Remove hen from pan; let rest for 2 and jus. caramelize. Season Cornish hen liberally minutes before removing bones with knife with salt and pepper; add to pan. before serving.

www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 37 American Regional flavors southwestern cuisine american regional flavors

Southwestern cuisine By Josh Curtis, CEC, MBA, program chair—culinary, The International Culinary School at The Art Institute of Phoenix

texture. My personal preference for any meat or vegetable cookery is grilling rather than searing or roasting.

Geographically, the Southwest encompasses New Mexico, Arizona, California, Nevada, Utah and Colorado. Within this vast expanse, many regional cuisines have evolved. Colorado boasts of Rocky Mountain Cuisine, and California has its own style. Today when we refer to Southwestern cuisine, we mainly mean the food, ingredients and sensibilities in and around Las Vegas, Phoenix, Denver and Santa Fe.

Phoenix has a diverse food offering from some of the top chefs recognized in U.S. Southwestern cuisine today and encompasses a lot more than tacos and guacamole. With the availability of year- round fresh produce, chefs are flocking to the Valley to put their unique spin on local and regional dishes with the bounty of local ingredients.

hen I think of Southwestern Although mostly a desert climate, cuisine, I think of bold, there are plenty of mountain areas and W developed flavors. Roasted, temperate valleys with rich farm lands charred and grilled flavor profiles bring perfect for a 12-month growing season. out natural sweetness and transform You can find arugula, beets and sweet

38 Sizzle Fall 16 potatoes in January; lettuce, peas and and northern states to escape the hot sample radishes in April; apples, blueberries, months, migrating back to the Valley southwestern corn and chilies in July; pumpkins, for the mild winters. Upon returning, dishes ƒƒ Tamales potatoes and zucchini in September; these “Snowbirds” bring with them new ƒƒ Tacos a carnitas and oranges, grapefruit and fresh herbs cravings and experiences that shape ƒƒ Elote (roasted corn) ƒ in December. their expectations. These influences ƒ Jalapeno cornbread ƒƒ Stewed black beans can be seen in the diverse cuisines ƒƒ Nopales salad cultural influences throughout the Valley. ƒƒ Colorado lamb with Cultures and their interpretation of local pinion crust Tourists make up another large ƒƒ Seared rabbit loin with ingredients is what defines a cuisine. mole sauce Native American people of the Southwest population of Phoenix, and neighboring ƒƒ Coffee and stout seared heavily influenced the development of Las Vegas and San Diego attract buffalo tenderloin ƒƒ Pastel tres leches what we now know as Southwestern millions each year. The visitors bring Cuisine. American Indians were foragers with them a list of expectations, desires and farmers growing such heirloom crops and preferences that determine their as corn, beans and squash that could loyalty and support for local businesses withstand the climate. They foraged for and the economy. such foods as nopales, cactus seeds and Bordering Mexico, the staple go-to tepary beans—a desert legume. cuisine is Latin—or Mexican. A large Today, a large population of Phoenix portion of the base population is made moves to the cooler mountain climates up of Latin Americans. Thus, you will www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 39 American Regional flavors southwestern cuisine

sweet potatoes and black beans. Tropical fruits, avocados and rice are some of the common staples in Latin cookery.

Ingredients common to Southwestern cuisine vary by geographical location. Local growers in Phoenix supply the large number of restaurants, hotels and resorts throughout the Valley year round. Roasted tomatoes, cumin and citrus are common tastes. Flavors in Southwestern cuisine take time to develop. Spices are whole roasted in the pan and then ground. Fruits and vegetables are roasted and charred to bring out their natural sweetness. The main proteins are pork, beef and chicken. up close and personal find a heavy dose of Latin American I grew up in upstate New York in the land of culture in restaurants, hotels, food where to go corn and dairy farms where summer was far Planning a culinary tour of the too short. We had a garden that provided most trucks and sporting arenas. of our ingredients for the summer and fall. Phoenix Valley is something I would In winter we relied on what we had canned, The culinary demand from local recommend. There are many world- frozen or stored in the cellar. Food never tasted residents and tourists keeps the chefs as good as it did in the summer. Textures were class resorts, sporting events, culinary of the Valley on their toes. Supplied lost, flavors muddled and variety diminished. festivals, farmers markets and outdoor Once I moved away from New York, my with a variety of fresh ingredients and activities that highlight some of the culinary curiosity started to peak as I was an educated clientele, chefs create fresh, exposed to new ingredients and more sun. Valley’s finest cuisines. seasonal and Southwestern-inspired I attended Johnson & Wales University in Vail, cuisine for a variety of palates. Stay a few nights in one of the Valley’s Colorado, and spent the next decade in Denver continuing to develop my palate and tinkering premier resorts and enjoy the many in all things culinary before moving to Phoenix. the flavors award-winning restaurants and chefs Admittedly, Denver is my second home and Southwestern cuisine differs from Latin offering up their interpretation of the where I developed my love of Hatch chile American cuisine in a number of ways, peppers. Roasted, grilled or fresh, you really local cuisine. As a tourist destination, can’t go wrong with a little spice. In Colorado, although people mistake the two as being the Valley’s many casinos offer an I found the weather, views and access to the identical. Such Southwestern ingredients unbelievable variety of well-prepared, mountains inspiring and unbeatable. as cumin, corn, dried chilies, lime and locally inspired dishes and are now Eight years ago, life’s winding path brought me pinto beans are scattered throughout attracting quality chefs and culinarians and my family to Phoenix where my culinary this region's cuisine, but they aren't curiosity reached a new level. The variety to raise the level of offering and service. and availability of ingredients in Phoenix was necessarily Latin American in origin. Or stay in downtown Phoenix and visit truly amazing. So much so, I now have an True Southwestern chefs have mastered the surrounding neighborhoods to get a 800-square-foot garden where I grow anything such local ingredients as tomatillos and that I am able to. The flavor and texture of taste of the food and culture. freshly picked foods cannot be beat and is nopales, incorporating the fruits of the something I try to reinforce with my family, desert into mainstream cuisine. Latin For a taste of authentic Southwestern friends and students.—Josh Curtis American dishes traditionally do not cuisine, check out Kai, a Native American

opposite bottom: Chimi utilize much cumin, but rather call on restaurant in the Sheraton Grand at Wild Kabab. Photo by Josh Curtis heavy amounts of cilantro, tomatoes, Horse Pass, Chandler, Arizona. Chef

40 Sizzle Fall 16 de cuisine Ryan Swanson takes Native American to new heights at the five- diamond, five-star rated restaurant. The menu focuses on the cuisine of the Pima and Maricopa tribes and utilizes local desert products from cactus powder to the more well-known prickly pear. On the menu, the Wild Horse Mac features Spanish chorizo, aged cheddars, puffed corn and a tortilla crust. The Bacon Wrapped Buffalo Meatloaf comes with agave tomato glaze and buttermilk potato mash.

Additionally, James Beard nominated Silvana Salcido Esparza, chef/owner of Phoenix-based Barrio Café, brings authentic regional flavors from Mexico City to the streets of Phoenix. The food experience and deliver something and lively atmosphere make this little unexpected, whether it’s simply fresh gem a must-taste in Phoenix. One of flavors or artfully arranged plates. my favorite starters is the Elote (roasted corn). Esparza’s adaptation of this Duck tacos are one of my favorite traditional street fare serves up roasted dishes that I have carried with me for sweet corn with a spicy aioli, Parmesan a few years. Not your average tacos, I cheese and hot sauce. Delicious! consider them bite-sized tortas. What started as a rich, classically my personal take inspired profile morphed into a When I think Southwestern cuisine, I mouthwatering Southwestern dish go to the local flavors of Phoenix and when I moved to Phoenix. I lightly surrounding areas—from the spicy toss succulent duck confit with roasted chilies of the southern Tucson region, to chilies and cumin, garnish with radish the rich citrus groves scattered across the and cabbage slaw and serve with a Valley, to the sprawling agricultural lands charred orange and serrano salsa. The of the eastern slope. In Phoenix you can richness of the duck plays with the find or grow most any vegetable, but it is acid in the slaw and the chili in the what you do with those ingredients and salsa without losing its identity. how you incorporate them into a dish In Southwestern cuisine, there are that defines a cuisine or chef. plenty of beans, chilies and salsas to be The creative juice from some of our had, but not as the main star, nor as the local and top chefs differentiates predominate flavor. These traditional Southwestern cuisine from Californian Southwestern flavors and ingredients Click here for a Duck Recipe! or Tex-Mex. There exists a constant are used to highlight this earthy style of Confit Tacos recipe. desire to redefine the culinary cuisine and elevate an experience.  www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 41 the interview todd ginsberg the interview Todd Ginsberg By Ethel Hammer

born Best New Restaurants In America, GQ, Belleville, New Jersey 2014; Ginsberg and partners named Restaurateurs of the Year, Georgia resides Restaurant Association, 2014; named Atlanta Best of Atlanta: Food & Drink in the learned the trade deli category, Atlanta Magazine, 2014; Semifinalist, Best Chef Southeast, James Busboy, The Colonial Inn, Concord, Beard Foundation, 2014, 2015. Massachusetts, 1992-93; busboy, Armani Café, Boston, 1992; food runner, The Capital Grille, Boston, 1993-94; graduated he General Muir is a tribute to the The Culinary Institute of America, Hyde New York delicatessen, says Todd Park, New York, 2000. T Ginsberg, executive chef/partner career path of Atlanta’s wildly popular, inventive yet Commis, The Dining Room at The Ritz- classical delicatessen. It is the first of four Carlton, Atlanta, 2000-01; chef, Asher venues he opened with his three partners Restaurant, Roswell, Georgia, 2001-03; in the past four years. stage, Lucas Carton, Paris, summer 2003; chef de partie, Alain Ducasse, The joys of Jewish delicatessens—the New York, 2004-06; chef, Tap and Trois steaming pastrami, matzoh balls, brisket, restaurants, Atlanta, 2006-09; chef, Reuben sandwiches, Russian dressing, Bocado, Atlanta, 2009-12; executive bagels and the inimitable rye bread—are chef/partner, The General Muir, Atlanta, 2013-present; executive chef/ nothing short of an unspoken religious partner, Fred’s Meat & Bread, Atlanta, experience in American Jewish culture. 2014-present; executive chef/partner, So are the tastes of Yiddish dishes like Yalla, Atlanta, 2014-present; executive kugel (sweet noodle pudding), knishes chef/partner, TGM Bread, Atlanta, (snacks filled with potato or kasha) and 2016-present. schmaltz (rendered chicken fat). select awards Unfortunately, Jewish delicatessens and achievements seemed headed toward extinction for Awards for The General Muir: Restaurant of the Year, Atlanta Magazine, 2013; decades, possibly due to emerging named one of 50 Best New Restaurants, health concerns, more choices for diners Bon Appetit, 2013; named one of 25 plus rising operating costs. “Then a few

42 Sizzle Fall 16 restaurants started a revival over the last decade, including Mile End Delicatessen in Brooklyn, Wise Sons Jewish Delicatessen in San Francisco and Kenny & Zuke’s Delicatessen in Portland, Oregon,” Ginsberg says. “I think these revivalists looked back at history so they wouldn’t make the same mistakes.” They sought smaller restaurants with smaller menus to lessen the costs. “You can’t survive with a delicatessen in Times Square’s prime real estate or with a 33-page menu.”

After researching the deli-diners of the 1960s, Ginsberg created his own version, coupling local foods with his tradition and ability to put together “I loved the tempo, the energy, the fact intriguing combinations. The Atlanta that the waiters and cooks were like older media went wild as did Jewish and non- brothers and we were all family,” he says. Jewish consumers alike with the open- faced bagels named after the legendary When he became a runner at The Capital Avenues A, B, C and D on New York’s Grille, his enthusiasm went through Lower East Side. The corned beef and the roof. “I loved working the front and pastrami are house-cured and smoked. the back of the house. I loved having You could get matzoh ball soup, chopped two bosses,” he says. When one of them liver and poutine with chopped pastrami. asked him to go downstairs and sweep A reflection of Ginsberg’s training at The the bathrooms, he did it and thought CIA, his chopped liver is more like a he had done a good job. But his boss French-style mousse sauteed in schmaltz. was not happy and told him, “No matter “Because of the food, equipment and what the job, you always want to put techniques available now, I feel I am doing your name on it. You always want to very traditional stuff, but better than it show your best.” was done 40 or 50 years ago,” he says. “For Ask Ginsberg what he loved best example, I cook my brisket sous vide. And about Paris, where he did a stage at the depending on the season, it could come Michelin three-star restaurant Lucas with Carolina rice and wilted kale or with Carton, and you might expect to hear succotash featuring Vidalia onions and opposite: Todd about the Dover sole, the cassoulets or charred Padron peppers.” Ginsberg. Photo by the escargot. “The most amazing thing Andrew Thomas Lee Ordinary school, including studying I saw in Paris was that French chefs top: Host stand at The business at Old Dominion University, worked 16 to 18 hours a day. I don’t General Muir. bottom: Burger and Norfolk, Virginia, made no sense to think I could have done that for more fries at The General Muir. Ginsberg, but early on he was happy than a week or two, but they did it for Photo by Andrew working as a busboy at The Colonial Inn. years,” he says. Thomas Lee www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 43 the interview todd ginsberg

What are The General Muir’s signature dishes? tg: The pastrami sandwich is the dish I am most proud of. We brine the pastrami for 10 days, smoke for eight hours and cook it seasoned with coriander and black pepper in a combi oven. Other signature dishes are the Reuben with corned beef, sauerkraut, Russian dressing, Gruyere cheese and buttered rye; poutine with fries; matzoh ball soup; fish and potatoes with smoked salmon over latkes; and smoked hash with crispy pastrami, potatoes, cabbage, peppers, caramelized onions and sunny-side-up eggs.

Please share some of your dish preferences with us. tg: While my mother’s matzoh balls were real “sinkers,” mine are between light Since The General Muir is a tribute and dense and are the best matzoh balls to the New York delicatessen, what I’ve ever had. The trick is the amount are some of your favorite places? of time you let them rest before you put tg: At Katz’s Delicatessen, which was them into the water. The open-faced founded in 1888 on New York’s Lower Avenue A bagel with Nova, a schmear East Side, the biggest romance is of cream cheese, avocado, grapefruit, watching the counter men hand slice the cucumber, onion and dill is original for pastrami for each individual customer. sure. We pickle radishes, cauliflower and When I opened The General Muir, I said all the vegetables that come our way. We if we can be 25% as good as Katz’s, we’ll serve smoked trout salad instead of the be OK. But in its own way, The General traditional white fish salad, because I love Muir is better, which is not to say that it. And there is a lot of trout in Georgia. Katz’s is not the best. Katz’s is king, but I What is your best advice to new love our pastrami. and aspiring chefs? Yonah Shimmel’s Knish Bakery, a dive tg: Make sure you are doing it for the on the Lower East Side, is also a Jewish right reasons—that you love cooking institution where you feel obligated to and the profession—and understand the get a knish. Since there were no tables, sacrifices you are going to make. You we ate our knish while walking on the can kiss holidays, Friday, Saturday and above: The Reuben sandwich. street or while sitting on a stoop. Russ & Sunday nights goodbye until you own the opposite clockwise from top: Daughters, New York, is my favorite deli, business, and still nothing is guaranteed. 1. Dining room at The General hands down. No matter where you go or The money is a long shot, but you do get Muir. Photo by Jeff Herr to travel a bit. It is a challenge at times to Photography. 2. Maven Platter. how much money you spend, you won’t Photo by Andrew Thomas Lee. get better fish. And the best pastrami keep things healthy in a marriage. I have 3. Pastrami and matzoh I ever had in my life was at Harry and a wonderful four-year-old son Liam, and ball soup. Photo by Andrew Ida’s, a very small place in Manhattan there is nothing better than giving a little Thomas Lee. with only six seats. boy a hug and a kiss.

44 Sizzle Fall 16 Can you tell us about your decision to feature Israeli food at Yalla? tg: I have an Uncle Schlomo from Israel, and that is as close as I got to Israeli food in America. But after doing The General Muir, the next step seemed to explore the foods of the Jewish diaspora. Israel has been occupied by many cultures. It’s a melting pot. I went to Israel before opening Yalla, a food stall in the Krog Street Market, and was inspired by how simple everything was. My best eating experience was in Tel Aviv at Abraxas North, with its very innovative celebrity chef Eyal Shani. Its ribeye is shaved one-fourth to one-fifth inch thick and seared for 50 seconds to a minute on both sides. It is very tender with a good char, lots of black pepper and oil and is drizzled with zhug, a Yemeni hot sauce made with peppers. This is an inspiration I brought back to Yalla, where we do a ribeye minute steak with hummus, Israeli salad, fried eggplants, sumac, onions, zhug and tahini. I also brought back amba, a mango pickle popular in The Middle East; dukkah, an Egyptian spice made of roasted nuts, spices and seeds with a what else intrigued really nutty coffee-like flavor; and fresh you in Israel? I had to learn how to make a Israeli za’atar, a spice blend that is life proper shawarma and how to put changing and the best. 40 pounds of meat on one skewer so it didn’t topple over. I went to Is there a difference between a place in Haifa called Shawarma Israeli and Middle Eastern food? Emil and was invited into the tg: No, I don’t think there is a kitchen where I learned that they set up the shawarma at the end difference. Israel is in the Middle East, I’m not particularly spiritual, and I did not of the day, roast it early the next and lots of people from the Middle East have a Bar Mitzvah. But when I went to morning, then set up the next day’s live there. At Yalla, I took the foundation shawarma at the end of that day. the Wailing Wall in Jerusalem, as soon of Israeli cooking and combined and I also had to see how they make as I put my hand to it, I started to cry. hummus. So I went to a very clean, rearranged the ingredients. For example I felt an overwhelming sense of all the small place in Jaffa called Abu The Shouk has chicken shawarma, souls that had suffered and been there Hassan, and they invited me into fries, hummus, baba ganoush, Israeli the kitchen. The hummus is never before me. I think of Israel as so many pickles, cole slaw, harissa and amba. refrigerated and is always warm. things: religion, war, happiness, sorrow You can order it in a pita, a bowl or in and prayer.  laffa, a Middle Eastern flatbread I love. I also love our shawarma, and we do a Ethel Hammer is a writer, lecturer and really good falafel. cartoonist based in Chicago. www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 45 the quiz fall 2016 Get the answers Click here to find out the correct the quiz answers.

Did you read all the articles in this issue? Take the Sizzle Quiz to test your knowledge. 18 30 42

1. What type of fermented drink is kombucha? 6. For root vegetables, the ideal storage 11. The process of making the perfect poelé is as a. Tea temperature is about what? much about control as it is about what? b. Water a. 32°F a. Creativity c. Grape juice b. 34°F b. Technique d. Fruit punch c. 40°F c. Skill d. 55°F d. Balance 2. How often is theInternationale Kochkunst Ausstellung (IKA) held? 7. Which of the following is not provided by 12. What is the best way to cook the Cornish a. Annually home meal delivery services? hen breast when making a poelé? b. Bi-annually a. Free delivery a. Chopped into chunks c. Every third year b. Online cooking videos b. Covered for an hour d. Once every four years c. Pre-cooked meals c. Submerged in water d. Packaged ingredients and recipes d. With the bone in 3. Historically, farmers have been “burned” by buyers who do what? 8. How much money can beginners in the home 13. Which of the following states is not typically a. Don’t pay their bills meal delivery industry expect to make? factored into the geographical region from b. Find something cheaper and purchase a. Minimum wage which Southwestern cuisine comes? outside of the contract b. About the same as an entry level a. New Mexico c. Refuse to buy ugly produce restaurant cook b. Arizona d. Only want to purchase from c. About the same as a kitchen manager c. Utah national distributors d. About the same as an executive chef d. Texas

4. Sourcing the majority of a restaurant’s produce 9. What large population significantly 14. What population heavily influenced the from a single farm does what? contributed to the iconic status of the development of what we now know as a. Supports one farm more significantly, Wisconsin fish fry? Southwestern cuisine? rather than diversifying funds too widely a. Fishermen a. Pan handlers across many farms b. Baby boomers b. Native Americans b. Makes the bookwork much easier to manage c. German Catholics c. Cowboys c. Allows for one delivery rather than several d. All of the above d. Mexicans d. Keeps fewer farms in business 10. Respecting the classic version of any dish is 15. Which of the following does Julie Dupont 5. Many root vegetables are high in what? the first step in doing what? not use in making her ice carvings? a. Beta carotene a. Writing the recipe a. Chain saws b. Vitamin C b. Identifying the significance of each ingredient b. Die grinders c. Dietary fiber c. Modernizing it c. Chisels d. All of the above d. Appreciating the flavor d. Dynamite

46 Sizzle Fall 16 Industry Profile julie dupont industry profile

Julie Dupont

turn it into a piece of art is really inspiring. and learned from my mistakes. Two things Whether it’s fruit carvings or ice sculptures, really ring out to me: What you like is not being able to transform your food into art is necessarily what the masses want, and never something special. get too big for your britches. Only grow your Describe the process and the tools you use. company if you can handle it. JD: Finding out what your client wants is Did 14 years in Norway influence your art the key. Once the design concept and art and cooking style? are agreed upon, I sculpt the ice using die JD: I traveled to many countries and learned grinders, chainsaws, block hoists, chisels and many styles of cooking, which taught me an arsenal of specially designed bits for ice the art of true fusion cooking. I typically carving. The shop has three block machines never use one cooking technique. I usually to make our own ice. At 300-plus pounds combine them. I am so blessed to have with about 40 gallons of water, they are a traveled and learned from the best chefs in force to be reckoned with. A sculpture can the world. It has been an awesome journey. ulie Dupont earned her master’s degree take three to six hours, or longer for a lot of Any advice for studying abroad? color or logo work. in culinary arts in Norway, where she JD: When I first moved to Norway, I was J lived 14 years and owned a bakery. Any weird sculpture requests? in shell shock and wasn’t sure I could do it. Since moving back to the U.S., she opened JD: A 1,200-pound abominable snowman, But after living there for 14 years, I became a Red River Ice, Shreveport, Louisiana, an closely followed by the 900-pound Rudolf Norwegian. My advice is to go for it and never ice-sculpting business in which she carves the reindeer. Some events involve up to 120 look back. Living and going to school in a custom designs. She also is a culinary arts blocks of ice. Needless to say, there is no different country makes you grow so much as instructor at Bossier Parish Community sleep during these weeks. a person. My education was one of the hardest College, Bossier City, Louisiana. Dupont things I had to complete, but it is irreplaceable! shares how she manages her time between As an instructor and business owner, what owning a business, teaching and her family time-management advice do you have for What is your favorite meal to cook when that includes two sons and two goats. young chefs? you are with your family? JD: Be organized! Know your time restrictions JD: As a carnivore, it has to be my steaks. How did you know that you wanted to be and understand when things are not feasible. I keep it simple at home with my busy a chef? Always strive to work with someone who schedule, but the only thing I will not JD: I don’t think I ever really knew; it has is better than you. Learn and grow from compromise is dinner with my family. always been a way of life. Being a chef chose me. everything you do, especially the mistakes. What are the names of your goats? How did you make your way into How did you decide to go into business JD: My two crazy goats are Thelma and ice sculpting? for yourself? Louise. They are sisters and the best of JD: I started out as a pastry chef specializing JD: I knew that opening this business was friends. Louise likes to climb on the horse in sculpting cakes, so it was a natural the right thing to do. I am the type of person when he lays down.  transition for me. To take a block of ice and who goes for it. I owned a bakery in Norway

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