WOOL : MASTER’S DESIGN THESIS the University of Texas at Austin School of Architecture Tamara Kinney, Master of Interior Design, Spring 2014 Advisors

Home , Animal fiber, Natural fiber, Tulle (netting)

WOOL : MASTER’S DESIGN THESIS The University of Texas at Austin School of Architecture Tamara Kinney, Master of Interior Design, Spring 2014 Advisors | Dr. Nancy Kwallek + Igor Siddiqui Copyright © 2014 Tamara Kinney All rights reserved. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

I would like to express my deepest appreciation and thanks to my advisors Dr. Nancy Kwallek and Igor Siddiqui of the School of Architecture at the University of Texas at Austin for encouraging my research and allowing me to grow as a designer. Your advice on both my research and design process has been instrumental to the completion and quality of my Masters Design Study. In addition I would like to thank Lois Weinthal, who first introduced me to the possibilities of felt and wool fiber.

I would like to extend my gratitude to Dr. Richard Corsi and Daniel Lu from the Civil Architectural and Environmental Engineering Department for sharing their research and test studies. A special thanks to Anais and Jane McBride from the McRanch in Dripping Springs, TX for allowing me to experience small- scale fiber processing with a hands-on approach and providing local Texas wool roving. Additionally, I would like to express appreciation to my fellow Materials Co-op colleagues for their helpful feedback and assistance throughout this process and particularly the Director, Jennifer Wong for supporting my thesis research and exhibiting my final installations. My sincerest thanks to the University of Texas at Austin School of Architecture and the Materials Co-op for their financial assistance.

A special thank you to my family for their unconditional support and encouragement throughout all of my endeavors. Words cannot express how grateful I am for all of the sacrifices you have made on my behalf. I would also like to thank all of my friends who supported me in this journey, and incited me to strive towards my goals. Graduate school has been the most invaluable and intellectually inspiring two years of my life and I thank everyone who helped me along the way.

Figure A.1

ii Figure A.2

ABSTRACT

Given the increasing awareness of indoor air quality (IAQ) and the direct correlation to human health, passive removal materials (PRM) have become known as a potential strategy for reducing occupant exposure to indoor air pollutants (Lu 2013). In recent studies, untreated natural wool fiber has been recognized as a PRM for removing formaldehyde, sulfur dioxide and nitrogen dioxide. These are common volatile organic compounds (VOCs) emitted from sources, such as building materials, fixtures, furnishings and cleaning supplies (Darling et al. 2012). Test chamber studies have shown that wool fiber can irreversibly remove up to 67% of these VOC’s in an interior environment (Curling et al 2012). When the toxins come in physical contact with the fiber, a chemical reaction occurs due to the amino-acid side chains within the keratin molecule. Increase in air-tight buildings has recently become a concern with the rising popularity of sustainable building practices, causing occupant exposure to these indoor air pollutants to rise (Weschler 2009). Beyond known adverse health effects, such as eye irritation and respiratory issues, formaldehyde has been designated by the International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) as a human carcinogen and is the leading cause for Sick Building Syndrome (SBS) (World Health Organization 2010).

The interior cortex of a wool fiber is hydrophilic – highly water absorbent, and can absorb 1/3 its weight in moisture. Wool fiber has a unique wicking property that allows the fiber to absorb water vapor from the air in a regulating sense; absorbing when there is an excess moisture level and releasing the gained moisture when the surrounding atmosphere is less humid. This provides passive humidity regulation in an indoor environment, stabilizing the comfort level of 20-50% relative humidity (RH) without requiring higher air-conditioning or ventilation rates (Bingelli 2010). Wool also has excellent properties for optimizing indoor acoustics, as it absorbs acoustic energy via the friction of air being moved through the tiny spaces between fibers and reduces traveling noise and reverberation (Bingelli 2010). In an untreated, natural roving state the density of wool is ideal for acoustic control in conversational speech situations where 70dB or lower is present, such as meeting rooms, lobbies and restaurants.

With the consideration of these properties, wool has the capability to improve the indoor environment quality (IEQ) and the health of occupants through the absorption of indoor air pollutants, humidity regulation and acoustic control. As Australia and the USA are among the top 3 wool producing countries, I will be working specifically with locally sourced wool from New South Wales and Texas as a basis for a sustainable IEQ intervention installation model that may be applied to future projects. The wool was obtained from local, small-scale fiber farms that implement hand processing in an effort to reduce toxins, in addition to lowering the manufacturing energy and transportation emission requirements. The local supply chain model provides increased environmental, social, economic and human health benefits to the design. Individual installations based on the vernacular wool fiber atrributes and interior climate needs will greatly increase the overall spatial environment, while also serving as an aesthetically pleasing piece of art.

iv Figure A.3 5 UNIQUE WOOL PROPERTIES FOR INTERIOR APPLICATIONS TABLE OF CONTENTS 5.1 Wool Fiber Composition 66 5.2-5.3 Acoustic Absorption 68 Acknowledgements ii 5.4-5.9 Industrial Felt Panel Acoustic Testing 70 Abstract iv 5.10-5.11 Humidity Regulation 72 Table of Contents vi 5.12 Indoor Air Quality Terminology + Toxin Danger Levels 74 List of Figures viii Environmental Protection Agency 9 Priority Chemical Pollutants 76 List of Acronyms II 5.13-5.14 VOC Sources + Human Health Effects 78 5.15-5.16 Fiber Absorption of Indoor Air Contaminants + Formaldehyde 80 5.17-5.18 Nitrogen Dioxide + Sulfur Dioxide Rate of Removal 82 1 WOOL 1.1 Wool: An Animal Fiber 4 1.2 Key Historical Dates 6 6 PRECEDENTS 1.3 Global Wool Production 8 6.1-6.5 Claudy Jongstra 86 1.4-1.6 NSW Sheep + Wool Production 10 6.6-6.11 Janice Arnold 88 1.7-1.10 TX Sheep + Wool Production 12 6.12-6.19 Robert Morris 90 1.11 Local Supply Chain Model 14 6.20-6.24 Anne Kyyro Quinn 92 1.12-1.15 NSW Climate + Wool 16 6.25-6.29 Dana Barnes 94 1.16-1.19 TX Climate + Wool 18 6.30-6.34 Kathryn Walker 96 6.35-6.40 Joseph Beuys 98 6.41-6.49 Ruff Collar + Ruff Rose Panel 100 2 DESIGN 2.1 Wool: Masters Design Thesis 22 2.2-2.3 TX Campanula 24 7 NATURAL DYEING 2.4-2.7 TX Campanula Diagrams + Renderings 26 7.1 Naturally Dyed Wool Roving 104 2.8 TX Campanula Instructional Making Diagram 28 7.2-7.3 How To Wet Felt 106 2.9-2.10 A.Knot 30 7.4 Blackberries 108 2.11-2.12 A.Knot Diagram + Renderings 32 7.5 Turmeric 110 2.13 A.Knot Instructional Making Diagram 34 7.6 Spinach 112 2.14-2.16 WEST Austin Studio Tour Installation + Process 36 7.7 Beets 114 7.8 Natural Dye Composition + Research Notes 116 3 WOOL: A NATURAL FIBER 3.1 Wool Fiber Attributes 40 8 WOOL PROTOTYPES + PROCESS 3.2 Fiber Comparison + Defining Wool Terminology 42 8.1 Design Constraints 120 3.3-3.4 Natural Animal Fibers 44 8.2 Wool Prototypes 122 3.5-3.7 Sheep Wool Grades + Standardizing Systems 46 8.3-8.8 Soft Rose Translations 124 3.8-3.9 Sheep Fiber Quality 48 8.9-8.10 Felt Forms + Natural Wool Roving Ideas 126 3.10-3.11 Wool Color Range + Sheep Fleece Diagram 50 8.11-8.16 Hill Country Mapping + Landscape Inspired Prototypes 128 8.17-8.22 The Yucca Prototype + Exploring Crochet 130 8.23-8.26 First Exploration of TX Campanula Forms 132 4 WOOL + SUSTAINABILITY 4.1 Wool Processing 54 8.27-8.31 Christoper Wool Inspired Felt Book Cover 134 4.2-4.3 The McRanch Hand Processing 56 4.4-4.5 Wool Life Cycle 58 9 CONCLUSION + RECOMMENDATIONS 9.1 Moving Forward + Design Details 138 4.6-4.7 Co₂ + Photosynthesis Diagram 60 4.8 Wool Challenges + Opportunities 62 10 BIBLIOGRAPHY 140 4.1 Diagram: Wool Processing 53-54 6.32 Image: Kathryn Walker Headboard 96 4.2 Image: The McRanch Gate 55 6.33 Image: Kathryn Walker Showroom 96 LIST OF FIGURES 4.3 Image: McRanch Hand Processing Steps 56 6.34 Image: Kathryn Walker Acoustic Wall 96 4.4 Diagram: Wool Life Cycle 57 6.35 Image: Joseph Beuys Installation 97 A.1 Image: Sheep in Pasture i 4.5 Image: Two Sheep 58 6.36 Image: Joseph Beuys Installation 97 A.2 Image: Sheep iv 4.6 Image: Texas Hill Country 59 6.37 Image: Joseph Beuys Installation 97 A.3 Image: TX Campanula Close Up v/vi 4.7 Diagram: CO₂ + Photosynthesis 60 6.38 Image: Joseph Beuys Installation 98 A.4 Image: NSW Faemland vii 4.8 Image: Sheep 62 6.39 Image: Joseph Beuys Installation 98 A.5 Image: Sheep Close Up II 6.40 Image: Joseph Beuys Installation 98 5.1 Diagram: Wool Fiber Comparison 65 6.41 Image: 16th Century Ruff Collar 99 5.2 Image: Ruff Rose Panel Close Up 67 6.42 Image: 16th Century Ruff Collar 99 1.1 Image: Sheep Close Up 3 5.3 Graph: Acoustic Performance of Organic Building Materials 68 6.43 Image: Ruff Collar Front 99 1.2 Diagram: Key Historical Dates Timeline 5-6 5.4 Image: Anne Kyyro Quinn Felt Tapestry Panels 69 6.44 Image: Ruff Collar Side 99 1.3 Map: Global Wool Production 7-8 5.5 Image: Anne Kyyro Quinn Felt Acoustic Mounted Panels 69 6.45 Image: Ruff Collar Back 99 1.4 Map: NSW Sheep + Wool Production 9 5.6 Diagram + Chart: Felt Tapestry Panel Absorption Coefficients 70 6.46 Rendering: Ruff Rose Panel 100 1.5 Graph: Australian Wool Production + Pricing 10 5.7 Diagram + Chart: Felt Acoustic Panel Absorption Coefficients 70 6.47 Image: Ruff Rose Panel Close Up 1 100 1.6 Graph: Australian Sheep Head Count + Wool Production 10 5.8 Graph: Felt Tapestry Panel Acoustic Test 70 6.48 Image: Ruff Rose Panel Close Up 2 100 1.7 Map: TX Counties Sheep Head Count + Wool Production 11 5.9 Graph: Felt Acoustic Panel Acoustic Test 70 6.49 Image: Ruff Rose Panel Close Up 3 100 1.8 Table: U.S. Sheep Count + Wool Production 12 5.10 Graph: Effect of Wool Fiber on Ambient Relative Humidity 71 1.9 Diagram: Global Fiber Market Share Pie Charts 12 5.11 Image: Wool Roving Close Up 72 7.1 Image: Naturally Dyed Roving 104 1.10 Graph: U.S. Sheep + Lamb Inventory 12 5.12 Diagram: CDC Toxin Danger Levels 74 7.2 Image: How to Wet Felt Step-by-Step 105 1.11 Diagram: Local Supply Chain Model 13-14 5.13 Diagram: VOC Sources + Human Health Effects 77 7.3 Image: Dyed Roving + Linen Textile 106 1.12 Image: NSW Landscape 15 5.14 Image: Australian Sheep Farm 78 7.4 Image: Blackberry Installation 107-108 1.13 Map: NSW Climate 16 5.15 Graph: Fiber Absorption of Indoor Air Contaminants 79 7.5 Image: Turmeric Installation 109-110 1.14 Image: NSW Sheep Farm 16 5.16 Graph: Wool + Nylon Formaldehyde Test Chamber Results 80 7.6 Image: Spinach Installation 111-112 1.15 Image: Shetland Sheep 16 5.17 Graph: Wool + Nylon Nitrogen Dioxide Test Chamber Results 81 7.7 Image: Beet Installation 113-114 1.16 Map: TX Climate 17 5.18 Graph: Wool + Nylon Sulfur Dioxide Test Chamber Results 82 7.8 Image: Natural Dye Composition 115 1.17 Image: TX Hill Country Landscape 17 1.18 Image: American Cormo Sheep 17 6.1 Image: Claudy Jongstra’s Dreanth Sheep 85 8.1 Image: Sheep Flock 119 1.19 Image: The McRanch Gate 18 6.2 Image: Claudy Jongstra Installation 85 8.2 Image: Multiple Wool Prototypes 121-122 6.3 Image: Claudy Jongstra Natural Dye 85 8.3 Image: Step-by-Step Soft Rose 123 2.1 Image: TX Campanula Close Up 22 6.4 Image: Claudy Jongstra Installation 86 8.4 Image: Soft Rose Translation 124 2.2 Diagram: TX Campanula Light Fixture 23 6.5 Image: Claudy Jongstra Installation 86 8.5 Image: Soft Rose Translation 124 2.3 Rendering: TX Campanula Light Fixture 24 6.6 Image: Janice Arnold Installation 87 8.6 Image: Soft Rose Close Up 1 124 2.4 Diagram: TX Campanula Interior Environment Improvements 25 6.7 Image: Janice Arnold Installation 87 8.7 Image: Soft Rose Close Up 2 124 2.5 Rendering: TX Campanula Ceiling Installation 26 6.8 Image: Janice Arnold Installation 88 8.8 Image: Soft Rose Close Up 3 124 2.6 Diagram: TX Campanula Light Fixture 26 6.9 Image: Janice Arnold Installation 88 8.9 Image: Circular Felt Form + Technique Exploration 125 2.7 Diagram: Designed Hanging System + Fixture Option 26 6.10 Image: Janice Arnold Felt + Silk Textile 88 8.10 Image: Natural Untreated Wool Roving Close Up 126 2.8 Diagram: TX Campanula Instructional 27-28 6.11 Image: Janice Arnold Felt + Silk Textile 88 8.11 Image + Sketch: Hill Country Mapping Inspiration 127 2.9 Rendering: A.Knot 29 6.12 Image: Robert Morris Installation 89 8.12 Image: Mapping Wool Prototype 127 2.10 Image: A.Knot Floor Piece 30 6.13 Image: Robert Morris Installation 89 8.13 Image: Mapping Wool Prototype Close Up 127 2.11 Rendering: A.Knot Floor Piece 31 6.14 Image: Robert Morris Installation 89 8.14 Image + Sketch: Hill Country Landscape Inspiration 128 2.12 Diagram: A.Knot Interior Environment Improvements 32 6.15 Image: Robert Morris Installation 89 8.15 Image: Landscape Wool Prototype 128 2.13 Diagram: A.Knot Instructional 33-34 6.16 Image: Robert Morris Installation 90 8.16 Image: Landscape Wool Prototype Close Up 128 2.14 Image: TX Campanula WEST Austin Studio Tour Installing 35 6.17 Image: Robert Morris Installation 90 8.17 Image + Sketch: Yucca Inspiration 129 2.15 Image: TX Campanula Close Up 35 6.18 Image: Robert Morris Installation 90 8.18 Image: Yucca Wool Prototype 129 2.16 Image: WEST Austin Studio Tour Installation 36 6.19 Image: Robert Morris Installation 90 8.19 Image: Yucca Wool Prototype Close Up 129 6.20 Image: Anne Kyyro Quinn Acoustic Panel 91 8.20 Image: Crochet Exploration 130 3.1 Image: Raw Wool Locks Close Up 40 6.21 Image: Anne Kyyro Quinn Felt Walls 91 8.21 Image: Crochet Exploration Prototype 130 3.2 Diagram: Microscopic Fiber Comparison 41 6.22 Image: Anne Kyyro Quinn Felt Panels 92 8.22 Image: Crochet Exploration Prototype Close Up 130 3.3 Diagram: Natural Animal Fibers 43 6.23 Image: Anne Kyyro Quinn Acoustic Curtains 92 8.23 Image: First TX Campanula Prototype 131 3.4 Image: Sheep + Alpaca Farm 44 6.24 Image: Anne Kyyro Quinn Felt Accessories 92 8.24 Image: First TX Campanula Prototype Close Up 131 3.5 Table: Wool Standardizing Systems 45 6.25 Image: Dana Barnes Close Up 93 8.25 Image: Second TX Campanula Prototype 132 3.6 Diagram: Sheep Breeds + UDSA Grade + Micron Range 45 6.26 Image: Dana Barnes in Studio 93 8.26 Image: Second TX Campanula Prototype Close Up 132 3.7 Diagram: Uses For Wool By Micron Count 46 6.27 Image: Dana Barnes Installation Pieces 93 8.27 Image: Christoper Wool Portrait 133 3.8 Diagram: Sheep Fiber Quality 47 6.28 Image: Dana Barnes Wool Pieces 94 8.28 Image: Felted Wool Book Cover 133 3.9 Image: Sheep Farm 48 6.29 Image: Dana Barnes Wool Rug 94 8.29 Image: Christopher Wool Painting 133 3.10 Image: Sheep Wool Color Range 49 6.30 Image: Kathryn Walker Felt Wall 95 8.30 Image: Felted Wool Book Cover Open 133 Figure A.4 3.11 Diagram: Sheep Fleece 50 6.31 Image: Kathryn Walker Ceiling Installation 95 8.31 Image: Felted Wool Book Cover Process 134 LIST OF ACRONYMS

ACH - Air Changes per Hour MDF – Medium density fiberboard

ASTM – American Society for Testing Materials NRC – Noise-reduction coefficient

CDC - Center for Disease Control + Prevention PRM - Passive Removal Material

CH₂O or HCHO - Formaldehyde RH – Relative humidity cN/tex - centiNewton/tex SBS - Sick Building Syndrom

CO₂ – Carbon Dioxide SO₂ - Sulfur Dioxide dB - Decibel UF – Urea-formaldehyde

EPA – Environmental Protection Agency USDA – United States Department of Agriculture

Hz - Hertz USGBC – Unites States Green Building Council

IARC - International Agency for Research on Cancer VOC – Volatile Organic Compound

IAQ – Indoor Air Quality WHO - World Health Organization

IEQ – Indoor Environment Quality WRONZ – Wool Research Organization of New Zealand

ISO – International Organization for Standardization

Figure A.5 II WOOL WOOL : AN ANIMAL FIBER

A NATURAL FIBER FROM THE COAT OF A SHEEP.

ONE OF THE OLDEST TEXTILE MATERIALS, DATING BACK TO 8000 BC.

RAPIDLY RENEWABLE RESOURCE - SHEEP ARE SHEARED ONCE A YEAR.

WOOL FIBER THICKNESS AND FINENESS RANGES FROM COARSE TO MERINO.

ENDLESS APPLICATIONS: FROM INDUSTRIAL TO BUILDING MATERIALS, APPAREL AND HOME FURNISHINGS.

WOOL CAN BE PROCESSED AS A WOVEN OR NONWOVEN TEXTILE.

WOOL REQUIRES VERY LITTLE TO ZERO MECHANICAL PROCESSING.

WOOL FIBER CAN BE PRODUCED INTO ROVING OR YARN USING NO TOXINS.

U.S. IS THE LARGEST CONSUMER OF WOOL AS A TEXTILE.

AUSTRALIA IS THE LARGEST PRODUCER OF WOOL, WITH THE U.S. FOLLOWING AS 3RD, AFTER CHINA.

WOOL HAS VERY STRONG THERMAL, MOISTURE, ACOUSTIC AND TOXIN

ABSORBING QUALITIES. 4 Figure 1.1 SHEEP WEREFIRST KEY HISTORICALDATES DOMESTICATED KEY HISTORICALDATES

8000B C MOTIF FOUNDIN WALL PAINTINGS FELT APPLIQUE

IN TURKEY

C B 0 0 5 6 WORN INBABYLON WOOL CLOTHING (LAND OFWOOL)

4000B C

AGE” WEAVES WOOL BRITAIN’S “BRONZE YARN INTOCLOTH

C B 0 0 9 1 WOOL USEDINYURT CREATE DWELLINGS CONSTRUCTION TO IN GREECE+ MONGOLIA 600 BC BRITISH DEVELOPA STRONG WOOL

INDUSTRY

C B 5 5 INVENTION OFTHE SPINNING WHEEL

1200

SHEEP TOAMERICA ENGLAND FORBID

THE IMPORT OF

0 0 6 1 PUNISHABLE CRIME+ AMERICAN WOOL WOOL TRADE A ENGLISH MAKE TRADE GROWS

1720’s

INVENTION OFTHE

FLYING SHUTTLE

3 3 7 1 WOOL CARDING INVENTION OF

TOOL 1748

INVENTION OFTHE

SPINNING JENNY

4 6 7 1 FIRST AMERICAN WOOLEN MILL

1769

FIRST SHEEP ARRIVED IN AUSTRALIA

8 8 7 1 LARGEST SHIPMENT ENGLAND TODATE AUSTRALIA SENDS OF WOOL TO 1813 OF FELT BEGANIN MANUFACTURING

INDUSTRIAL

EUROPE

0 5 8 1 AUSTRALIA BECOMES SUPPLIER OFWOOL WORLDS NO. 1 PRODUCER + 1870 DECLINING DUETO RISE INSYNTHETIC

WOOL DEMAND

PRODUCTION

0 4 9 1 PASSED. QUOTAS ON MFA -MULTI FIBER DEVELOPING TO ARRANGEMENT (EXPIRED 2005) TRADE FROM DEVELOPED COUNTRIES 1974 WHAT ITISIN2013. COUNT DOUBLE US SHEEPHEAD

ECONOMIC +

CULTURAL

3 9 9 1 U.S. WOOL $/lb. RAISES OVER $1.00FORTHE FIRST TIMEIN $1.00 HISTORY 2010 PRODUCTION AT ALL TIME LOW DUETO

AU +NZWOOL DROUGHT +$

2 1 0 2 Figure 1.2 6 Figure 1.3

2% 2%

17% 17% 2% 2% 2% 2%18% 18%

2% 2%

GLOBAL WOOL PRODUCTION

1. AUSTRALIA - 25% 2. CHINA - 18% 3. UNITED STATES 17% 1% 1% 4. NEW ZEALAND 11% 3% 3% 25% 25% 5. ARGENTINA 3% 6. UNITED KINGDOM 2% 7. IRAN 2% 8. AFGHANISTAN 2% 11% 11% 9. INDIA 2% 10. SUDAN 2% 8 11. SOUTH AFRICA 1% Figure 1.4

NSW SHEEP + WOOL PRODUCTION Tonne AUSTRALIAN WOOL PRODUCTION + PRICE $/KG ‘000s CLEAN Tonne $/KG SHEEP HEAD COUNT + ANNUAL WOOL PRODUCTION 700 14 ‘000s CLEAN (IN TONNES) COST *EMI 600700 1214 Climate Zone Map. Australian Government 2009. COST *EMI 600500 1012 SHORN WOOL 400500 PRODUCTION 810 SHORN WOOL 300400 PRODUCTION 68 200300 64 100200 24

100 0 02 0 1996 1990 2002 2005 2008 2011 2014 2017 0 -97 -00 -03 -06 -09 -12 -15 -18 1996 1990 2002 2005 2008 2011 2014 2017 -97 -00 -03 -06YEAR -09 -12 -15 -18 YEARFigure 1.5

WOOL SHEEP (mkg greasy) (million) WOOL SHEEP #’s +WOOL PRODUCTION SHEEP (mkg1200 greasy) (million)200 180 10001200 200 160 SHEEP 180 1000 140 800 160 WOOL SHEEP 120 ANNUAL WOOL 140 600800 100 PRODUCTION SHEEP + LAMBS WOOL 120 80 (Tonnes/SLA) #/sq.km. 600 100 400 60 80 40 3,000 - 7,500 26-61 200400 60 20 40 200 0 61-108 0 2,300 - 3,000 ‘70 ’83 ‘76 ’79 ‘82 ’85 ‘88 ’91 ‘94 ’97 ‘00 ’03 ‘06 ’11 20 0 YEAR 0 108-171 1,600 - 2,300 ‘70 ’83 ‘76 ’79 ‘82 ’85 ‘88 ’91 ‘94 ’97 ‘00 ’03 ‘06 ’11 YEAR0 Figure 1.6 10 250 - 1,600 171-267 U.S. U.S. SHEEPSHEEP COUNT + WOOLWOOL PRODUCTIONPRODUCTION GLOBALGLOBAL FIBER MARKET MARKET SHARE SHARE

Figure 1.7 YEAR | SHEEP HEAD | SHORN WOOL | AVG. $/LB | TOTAL $ TOP 20 TEXAS COUNTIES COUNT [MILLION] [MILLION LBS] [MILLION] 2013 5.34 ------1960 SHEEP HEAD COUNT + ANNUAL WOOL PRODUCTION (IN LBS) 2012 5.35 28.5 $1.53 43.6 WOOL COTTON SYNTHETICS Climate Zone Map. PRISM Climate Group, Oregon State 2011 5.53 29.3 $1.67 48.9 CELLULOSICS University. Created 2 June 2013. 2010 5.63 30.6 $1.15 35.3

2009 5.75 30.9 $0.79 24.4 2012 2008 6.06 33.0 $0.99 32.5

Figure 1.9 2007 6.19 34.5 $0.88 30.3 (000) HEAD U.S.U.S. SHEEPSHEEP ++ LAMBLAMB INVENTORYINVENTORY 2006 6.23 36.0 $0.68 24.4 11,000 2005 6.14 37.2 $0.71 26.3 10,000 TOTAL BREEDING 2004 6.09 37.6 $0.80 29.9 9,000

2003 6.35 38.1 $0.72 27.4 8,000

2002 6.69 41.2 $0.53 21.8 7,000 6,000 5,000 SHEEP/RING 2001 6.93 43.0 $0.36 15.3 5,000 ANNUAL WOOL 2000 7.24 46.4 $0.33 15.5 PRODUCTION (LBS) 4,000 BLACK - HIGHEST Figure 1.8 95 96 97 98 99 00 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 YEAR 12 Figure 1.10 LOCAL SUPPLY CHAIN MODEL Figure 1.11

1. LOCALLY SOURCED 2. LOCAL + SMALL-SCALE PROCESSING 3. REGIONAL + HISTORIC MAKING 4. SELL LOCALLY

CHOOSE IN SEASON IF SEASONAL EASY ACCESS TO THE SUPPLY CHAIN HAND-MADE WITH CARE DEVELOP ETHICAL CONSUMPTION BUYING PATTERNS IN CONSUMERS

EASY ACCESS TO MATERIAL SUPPLY EASE TO INTENSIVE QUALITY CONTROL INCREASE AVAILABLE JOBS IN THE SELL IN LOCAL SHIPS THAT SUPPORT JOBS LOCAL COMMUNITY LOCAL ECONOMY + LOCAL PRODUCTS

SUPPORT THE LOCAL ECONOMY SUITED TO SMALL-BATCH + CUSTOM PRODUCTS HISTORIC + EMOTIONAL ATTACHMENT TO ECUATE THE CONSUMER ON THE VS. MASS PRODUCTION VERNACULAR DESIGNED PRODUCTS WHOLE LIFE-CYCLE OF THE PRODUCT

ELIMINATE TRANSPORTATION SMALL-SCALE, SUSTAINABLY RUN UTILIZE SKILLED LOCAL CRAFTSPEOPLE, ‘PRIDE OF PLACE’ - GEOGRAPHIC EMISSIONS + FUEL REQUIREMENTS MANUFACTURING PROCESSES. TECHNICIANS + PRODUCT DESIGNERS INGREDIENT BRANDING

14 NEW SOUTH WALES, AUSTRALIA

WOOL USED

SHETLAND SHEEP - Medium - Coarse grade - 30 Micron count - Optimal for absorption of toxins, humidity and acoustic control as the fibers are more dense and have a rough texture.

Figure 1.15

Figure 1.13

NEW SOUTH WALES CLIMATE Over half of NSW is arid to semi-arid and becomes more temperate as you move East towards the coast. The sheep population is mostly located inland NSW, where the climate is arid; a severe lack of available water that prevents the growth and development of plant and animal life.

HOW THIS EFFECTS THE BUILT ENVIRONMENT The arid climate in NSW causes a lack of humidity needed for occupant comfort in interior environments; humans are most comfortable at 20-50% relative humidity. A coarse wool fiber installation that can be touched and wrapped around the body would allow the fiber to wick moisture and cool the temperature of the body, without having to increase air conditioning or ventilation rates.

Figure 1.12 Figure 1.14 16 TEXAS, USA

WOOL USED

AMERICAN CORMO SHEEP - Medium - Coarse grade - 26 Micron count - Optimal for absorption of toxins, humidity and acoustic control as the fibers are more dense and have a rough texture.

Figure 1.18

Figure 1.16

TEXAS CLIMATE As the climate varies throughout the state of TX, this installation will focus on the Hill Country where the McRanch is located in Dripping Springs. The climate in Central Texas is humid subtropic, characterized by hot, humid summers and mild winters. Figure 1.19

HOW THIS EFFECTS THE BUILT ENVIRONMENT THE McRANCH | DRIPPING SPRINGS, TX The humid subtropic climate in Central Texas affects the interior environment with a high level of humidity, causing the relative humidity to often rise much The McRanch is a small, family owned ranch located West of Dripping Springs, TX. They have a range of natural fiber higher than occupant comfort level. To alleviate the high humidity air condi- animals including sheep, angora goats, llama’s and angora rabbits. The small-scale of their fiber production allows for tioning and ventilation rates are increased. As humidity and hot air rise, a ceiling completely natural processing using traditional methods rather than mechanical. This provides the most toxin-free fibers installation is the most appropriate design solution for a Central Texas wool. possible, creating the cleanest wool available and reduces the energy and transportation emission requirements. These are important quality as the wool is being used to absorb indoor air toxins.

18 Figure 1.17 DESIGN Figure 2.1

MASTER’S DESIGN THESIS

Indoor wool installations made from locally sourced fiber that improve the interior environment quality (IEQ) through the absorption of harmful indoor air pollutants, acoustic control and humidity regulation. Recent studies have recognized natural wool fiber as a passive removal material (PRM) that can irreversibly absorb three of the EPA’s top 9 most harmful indoor air toxins: formaldehyde, nitrogen dioxide and sulfur dioxide. All of which have adverse effects on human health, such as eye irritation, respiratory issues and formaldehyde is both carcinogenic and the leading cause of Sick Building Syndrome (SBS). These are common volatile organic compounds (VOCs) emitted from building materials, fixtures, furnishings and cleaning supplies among others and are present in most interiors.

Wool has excellent acoustic control properties, as it absorbs traveling noise and reverberation, providing an optimal space for conversation speech settings where 70dB or lower is present. The wool fiber also regulates the humidity in an interior environment, as the hydrophilic interior cortex retains water vapor from the air and releases the excess when the atmosphere becomes less humid. This is a form of passive humidity regulation with no increase in air conditioning or ventilation rates. Additional sustainability features are present in the development of a local supply chain model that focuses on vernacular wool fiber and the interior comfort needs of each specific design. The wool was sourced from the local family run fiber farm in Dripping Springs, TX where they hand-process their wool, which eliminates toxins, energy requirements from mechanical processing and transportation emissions. This local supply chain model has been designed for implementation on future projects, as it increases the environmental, social, economic and human health benefits of the design.

22 TX CAMPANULA Figure 2.2

Option to insert LED bulb and hanging metal fixture to convert to light fixture + add optimal light levels beneath the installation.

Master’s Design Thesis | A sustainable ceiling installation fabricated from regional wool that will improve the interior environment through humidity regulation, acoustic control and VOC absorption, while also serving as an aesthetically pleasing piece of art. The use of vernacular, locally-sourced materials from a small-scale ranch in Dripping Springs, TX greatly decreases transportation and manufacturing emissions. The local supply chain model provides increased environmental, social, economic and human health benefits to the design.

The design solution provides an intimate space while seated beneath, both visually and spatially. Optimal acoustic control is created for conversation spaces [ 70 dB or lower ], such as meeting rooms, restaurants and lobbies. The hydrophillic interior cortex of a wool fiber allows for 1/3 its weight in moisture absorption, as well as its unique wicking property, providing humidity regulation in an interior [ stabilizing the optimal level of 20-50% relative humidity ]. Recent research has proven that the wool fiber can irreversibly absorb 3 of the EPA’s top 9 most harmful indoor air toxins [ formaldehyde, sulfur dioxide + nitrogen dioxide ], the ability to purify the air quality will improve human health and reduce SBS - Sick Building Syndrom. Along with the inherent wool properties and those designed for, the wool installation has the versatile option to easily Figure 2.3 become a light fixture by stringing a single bulb through the circular steel plate that has been designed to accomodate both options. 24 INTERIOR Wool fiber in this form provides optimal Wool has been tested and proven to irreversibly Figure 2.6 acoustic control in conversational speech absorb 3 of the EPA’s top 9 most harmful indoor situations, [ 70dB or lower ]. The wool ENVIRONMENT air toxins - formaldehyde, sulfur dioxide and absorbs and reduces traveling noise and nitrogen dioxide.The keratin molecule located reverberation to create strong direct IMPROVEMENTS on the inside of the wool fiber reacts and binds conversation while reducing exterior noises. to these specific chemical compounds.

Figure 2.4

Designed to accomodate a hanging light fixture or to remain a ceiling piece. Wool absorbs acoustic energy via Wool fiber’s interior cortex is hydrophillic and can absorb 1/3 Formaldehyde, sulfure dioxide and nitrogen dioxide are the friction of air being moved its weight in moisture. Wool has a unique wicking technique common VOC’s offgased from many popular building through the tiny spaces between which allows the fiber to absorb moisture from the air, there- materials, systems, furnishings, cleaning products etc. fibers. Increased thickness, density fore it can reduce excess humidity in an interior environment. These chemical compounds tend to evaporate at room and porosity improve this ability. The fibers will regulate the moisture level in a space,releasing temperature and are released into the air we breathe. Wool can provide up to 0.90 NRC the gained humidity when the surrounding atmosphere is less Indoor air toxins cause SBS - Sick Building Sydrome Figure 2.5 Figure 2.7 [Noise-Reduction Coefficient]. humid. Humans are most comfortable in 20-50% (formaldehyde is the largest contributor to SBS), relative humidity. respiratory issues, eye irritation and some are 26 carcinogenic. Figure 2.8

1. SLIP KNOT 1. SLIP KNOT 2. HAND POSITIONING2. HAND POSITIONING 3. INSERT CROCHET3. INSERT HOOK CROCHET HOOK 4. BEGIN CHAIN4. STITCH BEGIN CHAIN STITCH 5. CHAIN STITCHES5. CHAIN STITCHES 6. CHAIN STITCH6. CHAIN STITCH

7. FORM LOOP 7. FORM LOOP 8. HOOK THROUGH8. HOOK KNOT THROUGH KNOT9. SINGLE STITCH9. TOSINGLE END STITCH TO END 10. PULL ROVING10. THROUGH PULL ROVING THROUGH11. COMPLETED11. CIRCLE COMPLETED CIRCLE12. TURN OVER. 12.SINGLE TURN OVER. SINGLE CENTER + SINGLE CENTER STITCH + SINGLE STITCH CROCHET TO END CROCHET TO END

13. SINGLE CROCHET13. SINGLE CROCHET14. CONTINUE SINGLE14. CONTINUE CROCHET SINGLE CROCHET15. TWO SINGLE 15. CROCHET TWO SINGLE CROCHET 16. ALTERNATE 116. OR ALTERNATE 2 SINGLE 1 OR 2 SINGLE 17. FINAL PIECE17. FINAL28 PIECE THROUGH EDGE THROUGH EDGE IN EACH LOOP IN EACH LOOP STITCHES EACH STITCHESLOOP EACH LOOP STITCHES TO CREATE STITCHES TENSION TO CREATE TENSION A.KNOT

Figure 2.10

Master’s Design Thesis | A sustainable lounging knot fabricated from regional wool that will imrpove the interior environment through humidity regulation, VOC absorption, occupant comfort and acoustic control. The A.Knot has been designed based on the regional climate conditions and wool fiber characteristics of the province of New South Wales, Australia. NSW is the highest producing province in Australia, which is the highest wool producing country in the world. Implementing the local supply chain model, this is a project based out of Australia and the use of vernacular, locally-sourced materials from a small-scale farm in New South Wales greatly decreases manufacturing energy requirements and reduces the use of processing toxins. The local supply chain model provides increased environmental, social, economic and human health benefits to the design.

The design solution provides an indivual lounging space or a group resting form. The A.Knot was designed to accompany the TX Campanula as an engaging sensory installation. Viewers may lounge on the A.Knot while viewing the TX Campanula above, or a group of people may experience the installation together by resting their heads along the edge of the knot. The hydrophilic interior cortex of a wool fiber allows for 1/3 its weight in moisture absorption, working with its unique wicking property, providing passive humidity regulation to an interior and working to cool or warm the occupant laying within the knot. The wool fiber is also working as a passive removal material (PRM), irreversibly removing 3 of the EPA’s top 9 more harmful indoor air pollutants: formaldehyde, nitrogen dioxide and sulfur dioxide. The ability to purify the air will improve occupant human health and reduce Sick Building Figure 2.9 Syndrome (SBS). The A.Knot is a versatile design that may be reconfigured to suit the needs and desires of the users, engaging the visitors with the material and the installation. 30 A.KNOT | INTERIOR + OCCUPANT IMPROVEMENTS

Wool has been tested and proven to irreversibly Wool fiber’s interior cortex is hydrophillic and can absorb 1/3 absorb 3 of the EPA’s top 9 most harmful indoor its weight in moisture. Wool has a unique wicking technique air toxins - formaldehyde, sulfur dioxide and which allows the fiber to absorb moisture from the air, there- nitrogen dioxide.The keratin molecule located fore it can reduce excess humidity in an interior environment. on the inside of the wool fiber reacts and binds The fibers will regulate the moisture level in a space,releasing to these specific chemical compounds. the gained humidity when the surrounding atmosphere is less humid. Humans are most comfortable in 20-50% relative humidity.

Wool absorbs acoustic energy via the friction of air being moved through the tiny spaces between fibers. Increased thickness, density and porosity improve this ability. Wool can provide up to 0.90 NRC [Noise-Reduction Coefficient]. Formaldehyde, sulfure dioxide and nitrogen dioxide are common VOC’s offgased from many popular building materials, systems, furnishings, cleaning products etc. These chemical compounds tend to evaporate at room temperature and are released into the air we breathe. Indoor air toxins cause SBS - Sick Building Sydrome (formaldehyde is the largest contributor to SBS), respiratory issues, eye irritation and some are carcinogenic.

As the A.Knot engages with the users body, the wool fibers unique ability to absorb moisture will provide body temperature regulation as the fiber wicks away excess moisture. This property is an important design feature as the A.Knot has been designed based on the arid climate of NSW, where interiors have an extreme lack of humidity which causes occupant discomfort.

Figure 2.11 Figure 2.12 32 Figure 2.13

1. 250 oz. NATURAL1. 250 WOOL oz. NATURAL ROVING WOOL ROVING 2. SLIP KNOT 8 2.LENGTHS SLIP KNOT OF 8ROVING LENGTHS THICK OF ROVING THICK 3. TIGHT SLIP KNOT3. TIGHT END SLIP KNOT END 4. BEGIN CHAIN4. STITCHBEGIN CHAIN STITCH

5. CONTINUE CHAIN5. CONTINUE STITCHING CHAIN STITCHING 7. 16’ LONG CHAIN7. 16’ STITCH LONG CHAINFORM STITCH FORM 8. OVER-SIZED 8.SLIP OVER-SIZED KNOT OPTION SLIP KNOT OPTION 9. OVER-SIZE SOFT9. OVER-SIZE KNOT OPTION SOFT KNOT OPTION 34 UTSoA MATERIALS CO-OP | WEST AUSTIN STUDIO TOUR

Figure 2.14 Figure 2.15

Figure 2.16 36 WOOL : A NATURAL FIBER Figure 3.1

NATURAL FIBER Wool is a natural animal fiber that grows naturally as a coat on sheep and does not require any sort of chemicals or manufacturing to produce.

RAPIDLY RENEWABLE RESOURCE According to the USGB a ‘Rapidly Renewable Resource’ must be planted and harvested in less than a ten year cycle. Wool is sheared from sheep once every year.

NONWOVEN OR WOVEN APPLICATION Wool fibers are suitable for both woven/knitted and nonwoven applications. Woven/knitted wool is processed into yarn and has great spinnability due to its scaling and crimp. Wool is the best natural fiber for nonwoven applications due to its ease of felting ability.

FELTING ABILITY The scaly and coarse nature of a wool fiber allows it to felt together and join to other wool or natural fibers with agitation, water and soap.

ELASTICITY Wool fibers can be bent over 30,000 times without danger of breaking or damage. It is the natural elasticity and wave or crimp that allows this fiber to be stretched as much as 130% and spring back into place when dry; a wet fiber can stretch up to 1/2.

MOISTURE ABSORPTION Wool fibers can absorb up to 30% of its weight in moisture, with a moisture regain of 16-18%. Wool fibers absorb and release moisture from surrounding air without compromising its thermal efficiency.

THERMAL INSULATION As a building insulation material, wool has an R-value of 3.5/inch of thickness.

FLAME RESISTANT Wool is naturally flame resistant and self extinguishes. The fiber will smolder and char, but will not burst into flames. It has a very low flame spread, heat of combustion and does not melt or drip when heated. WOOL FIBER ATTRIBUTES 40 FIBER COMPARISON + DEFINING WOOL TERMINOLOGY FIBER A unit of of matter; long, thin and flexible structure, either natural or manufactured that forms the basic element of a textile structure.

DIAMETER The thickness or fineness of a fiber, in wool this defines the grade which is often measured by micron. Diameter ranges from 16 microns (finest merino wool) to over 40 microns (coarsest long wool types). The diameter affects the fiber flexibility and spinnability.

LENGTH All natural fibers are staple fibers (excluding silk). Staple fibers range in length from 3/4” to 18” and are highly variable in length. The fiber length usually increases with the diameter increasing.

CRIMP The number of bends per unit length along the wool fiber, this generally indicated the spinnability of the wool. Fibers with a fine crimp have many bends and usually have a small diameter; these can be spun into fine yarns with great lengths. Crimp is measured in crimps per inch or crimps per centimeter.

LUSTER The light reflection or sheen of the wool fiber. The finer wools (lower micron count) generally have a higher luster than the coarse wool.

TENACITY The tensile strength of the wool fiber. Wool is much stronger dry than wet and the fiber is hydrophillic, absorbing water into its core. Wool has a dry strength of 11.5-13 cN/tex and a moisture regain of 16-18%. The dimensional stability of a wool fiber is strong in elastic recovery, but very weak when considering shrinkage.

ELONGATION COARSE WOOL FINE WOOL ALPACA CASHMERE SILK LINEN COTTON POLYESTER A wool fiber has the ability to stretch, or elongate and return back to its shape when dry due to its elasticity. Dry wool has a breaking elongation of 30-40%.

Figure 3.2

42 NATURAL ANIMAL FIBERS

SHEEP | WOOL ANGORA RABBIT | ANGORA

ALPACA | ALPACA CASHMERE GOAT | CASHMERE

LLAMA | LLAMA ANGORA GOAT | MOHAIR

CAMEL | CAMEL VICUNA | VICUNA

44 Figure 3.4 Figure 3.3 SHEEP WOOL GRADES + STANDARDIZING SYSTEMS

USES FOR WOOL SUPER- FINE FINE MEDIUM COARSE FINE WOOL CROSSBRED CROSSBRED WOOL BY MIRCON COUNT - 19mm 20mm - 24mm 25mm - 28mm 28mm - 32mm 38mm + Coarser

STANDARDSTANDARD SPECIFICATIONS SPECIFICATIONS DELAINE-MERINODELAINE-MERINO DEBOUILLETDEBOUILLET INTIMATE WEAR TYPETYPE OLDOLD AVG.AVG. FIBER FIBER OFOF BLOODBLOOD USDAUSDA DIAMETERDIAMETER RAMBOUILLETRAMBOUILLET WOOLWOOL GRADE GRADE GRADEGRADE (microns)(microns) TARGHEETARGHEE KNITWEAR FineFine FineFine - 80’s- 80’s UnderUnder 17.70 17.70 COLUMBIACOLUMBIA FineFine FineFine 80’s80’s 17.70-19.1417.70-19.14 CORRIEDALECORRIEDALE WOMEN’S WOVEN OUTERWEAR FineFine FineFine 70’s70’s 19.15-20.5919.15-20.59 19.15-20.59 FINNSHEEPFINNSHEEP FineFine FineFine 64’s64’s 20.60-22.0420.60-22.04 MONTADALEMONTADALE MEN’S WOVEN OUTERWEAR MediumMedium 1/21/2 Blood Blood 62’s62’s 22.05-23.4922.05-23.49 DORSETDORSET MediumMedium 1/21/2 Blood Blood 60’s60’s 23.50-24.9423.50-24.94 MediumMedium 3/83/8 Blood Blood 58’s58’s 24.95-26.3924.95-26.39 CHEVIOTCHEVIOT FELT MediumMedium 3/83/8 Blood Blood 56’s56’s 26.40-27.8426.40-27.84 SOUTHDOWNSOUTHDOWN MediumMedium 1/41/4 Blood Blood 54’s54’s 27.85-29.2927.85-29.29 SHROPSHIRESHROPSHIRE MediumMedium 1/41/4 Blood Blood 50’s50’s 29.30-30.9929.30-30.99 SOCKS HAMPSHIREHAMPSHIRE CoarseCoarse LowLow 1/4 1/4 48’s48’s 31.00-32.6931.00-32.69 SUFFOLKSUFFOLK CoarseCoarse LowLow 1/4 1/4 46’s46’s 32.70-34.3932.70-34.39 HAND KNITTING YARN CoarseCoarse CommonCommon 44’s44’s 34.40-36.1934.40-36.19 OXFORDOXFORD ROMNEYROMNEY UPHOLSTERY VeryVery Coarse Coarse BraidBraid 40’s40’s 36.20-38.0936.20-38.09 VeryVery Coarse Coarse BraidBraid 36’s36’s 38.10-40.2038.10-40.20 BORDERBORDER LEICESTER LEICESTER VeryVery Coarse Coarse BraidBraid + 36’s+ 36’s OverOver 40.20 40.20 LINCOLNLINCOLN CARPETS

*American*American Society Society for forTesting Testing Materials Materials USDA Grade 80’s 70’s 64’s 62’s 60’s 58’s 56’s 54’s 50’s 48’s 46’s 44’s 40’s 36’s USDAUSDA Grade Grade 80’s 80’s 70’s 70’s 64’s 64’s 62’s 62’s 60’s 60’s 58’s 58’s 56’s 56’s 54’s 54’s 50’s 50’s 48’s 48’s 46’s 46’s 44’s 44’s 40’s 40’s 36’s 36’s (ASTM)(ASTM)(ASTM) Designation DesignationDesignation D3991 D3991D3991 17.70- 19.15- 20.60- 22.05- 23.50- 24.95- 26.40- 27.85- 29.30- 31.00- 32.70- 34.40- 36.20- 38.10- INDUSTRIAL USE 17.70-17.70- 19.15- 19.15- 20.60- 20.60- 22.05- 22.05- 23.50- 23.50- 24.95- 24.95- 26.40- 26.40- 27.85- 27.85- 29.30- 29.30- 31.00- 31.00- 32.70- 32.70- 34.40- 34.40- 36.20- 36.20- 38.10- 38.10- Micron Range 19.14 20.59 22.04 23.49 24.94 26.39 27.84 29.29 30.99 32.69 34.39 36.19 38.09 40.20 Figure 3.5 MicronMicron Range Range 19.14 19.14 20.59 20.59 22.04 22.04 23.49 23.49 24.94 24.94 26.39 26.39 27.84 27.84 29.29 29.29 30.99 30.99 32.69 32.69 34.39 34.39 36.19 36.19 38.09 38.09 40.20 40.20

RANGE Figure 3.6 Figure 3.7 CONCENTRATION

46 Figure 3.9 SHEEP FIBER QUALITY Figure 3.8

FINENESS DENSITY

1 1 3 3 2 2 4

FINEST TO COARSEST MOST DENSE TO LEAST DENSE 1. Head wool. 1. Head wool. 2. Dominant wool over the body. 2. Neck and shoulder wool. 3. Rump and britch wool. 3. Dominant wool. 4. Belly wool.

LENGTH CLEAN WOOL YIELD

4 3 2 1 2 1 3

LONGEST TO SHORTEST HIGHEST % YIELD TO LOWEST 1. Lower britch wool. 1. Neck wool. 2. Dominant wool over the body. 2. Dominant wool over the body. 3. Head wool. 3. Belly wool. 4. Head wool. 48 Figure 3.10

SHEEP FLEECE DIAGRAM Figure 3.11

6 8

4 3

9 5 3

2 4

6 8 7

1 TOP KNOT 4 DOMINANT FLEECE 6 SKIRTINGS 8 BRITCH 2 NECK 5 BKS 7 LEGS 9 TAIL NATURAL WOOL COLOR RANGE 3 BKS2 50 WOOL + SUSTAINABILITY STOCK DYE ? YARN DYE ?

WOOLEN ROVING FELTING PROCESS (NONWOVEN)

SPINNING + FABRIC SHEARING SCOURING DRYING CARDING TWISTING FORMATION

Figure 4.1 WEAVING + WORSTED GILING DRAFTING YARN WOOL PROCESS KNIT (WOVEN) PROCESSING Wool processing steps from sheep through the worsted COMBING YARN DYE ? or woolen system to final product of nonwoven felt or 54 knitten and woven textiles. Figure 4.2

Figure 4.3

ANIMAL HAND SHEARING

HAND WASHING NATURAL DRYING

56 Figure 4.5

WOOL LIFE CYCLE WOOLFigure LIFE 4.4 CYCLE

RAW MATERIAL LOCALLY RAISED SHEEP HAND SHEARED X1/YEAR

END OF LIFE WOOL USED FOR COMPOST SLOW WATER DISPERSION MATERIAL PROCESSING HIGH NUTRIENCE FERTILIZER HAND WASHED + CARDED QUALITY FOOD FOR SHEEP NATURALLY AIR DRIED HAND TWISTED INTO ROVING

“IN THE CYCLES OF THE NATURAL WORLD, NOTHING IS WASTED: EVERYTHING OLD BECOMES FOOD FOR SOMETHING NEW. THIS SIMPLE, SAFE + SUCCESSFUL DESIGN CONCEPT HAS GOVERENED OUR LIVING PLANET SINCE THE BEGINNING.”

PRODUCT USE - WILLIAM MCDONOUGH HUNG IN AN INTERIOR VOC SEQUESTERING HUMIDITY REGULATION ACOUSTIC ABSORPTION MANUFACTURING NATURAL + ORGANIC DYES HAND FORMED + WET FELTED AIR OR OVEN DRIED

“RESTORATIVE + REGENERATIVE PRODUCTS THAT PRODUCT ASSEMBLY CREATE VALUE AT EVERY STEP OF THEIR HAND FORMED HAND SEWN CONNECTIONS LIFECYCLE - FOREVER”

- WILLIAM MCDONOUGH 58 CO2 + PHOTOSYNTHESIS PROCESS DIAGRAM Figure 4.7

SUNLIGHT AUTO + FACTORY FOSSIL FUEL EMISSIONS CO2 CYCLE

PHOTOSYNTHESIS

PLANT RESPIRATION SOIL RESPIRATION ANIMAL RESPIRATION CO2

DIFFUSION

AQUATIC LIFE HUMAN EXTRACTION OF FOSSIL FUELS RESPIRATION + DECOMPOSITION

ROOT RESPIRATION

OIL,OIL, COAL COAL + + NATURAL NATURAL GAS GAS

ORGANIC CARBON FROM WASTE + DEAD ORGANISMS

SEDIMENTATION (SLOW)

60 Figure 4.6 AS A COMPETITIVE NATURAL FIBER WOOL CHALLENGES + OPPORTUNITIES - MUST MEET 3 BASIC REQUIREMENTS: Figure 4.8

1. BE AVAILABLE IN SUFFICIENT QUANTITIES 2. BE ECONOMICALLY COMPETITIVE 3. HAVE SUFFICIENTLY LONG, STRONG AND FINE FIBERS

IMPORT/EXPORTS

- U.S. IMPORTS 40% OF ITS WOOL FROM NEW ZEALAND + 30% FROM AUSTRALIA

- CHINA BUYS 70% OF ALL U.S. WOOL EXPORTS

- GLOBAL WOOL PRODUCTION IN 2013 2.8 MILLION LBS

- U.S. WOOL PRODUCTION IN 2013 28.5 MILLION LBS

SUPPLY + DEMAND

- DEMAND FOR WOOL HAS DECLINED SINCE THE MID 1940’S WITH THE ADVENT OF SYNTHETIC FIBER PRODUCTION

- SUPPLY IS LIMITED BY FARMLAND, ANIMAL POPULATION, WEATHER, NATURAL DISASTERS, DISEASE, INSECTS ETC. THEREFORE SUPPLY CAN BE UNPREDICTABLE AND CANNOT BE INCREASED AT WILL TO RESPOND TO DEMAND

AS A NATURAL FIBER

- NATURAL FIBERS ARE HIGHLY VARIABLE

- 41% OF GLOBAL WOOL IS ‘COARSE’ 62

ACOUSTIC ABSORPTION INDOOR AIR QUALITY - VOC’S UNIQUE WOOL PROPERTIES + -- HUMIDITY REGULATION FOR INTERIOR APPLICATIONS CUTICLE On the outside of the wool fiber is a protective layer of scales callec cuticle cells. They overlap like scales and the exposed edges of the cells face away WOOL FIBER COMPOSITION from the root end, so there’s more friction when you rub the fiber in one direction than the other. This helps wool expel dirt and gives it the ability to Figure 5.1 felt. Wool felts when fibers are aligned in opposite directions and they become tangled. The scales have a waxy coating chemically bound to the surface, that stops water from penetrating the fiber but allows absorptions of water vapour. This makes wool water-repellant and resistant.

CORTEX KERATIN MOLECURE The cortex - the internal cells - make up 90% of the fiber. There are two main types of cortical cells - ortho-cortical and para-cortical. Each has a - Effectively + permanently different chemical composition. In finer fibers, these two types of cells form in two distinctive halves. The cells expand differently when they absorb CORTICAL CELL removes formaldehyde, sulfur moisture, making the fiber bend - this creates the crimp in wool. In coarser fibers, the para-cortical and orth-cortical cells form more randomly, so there dioxide + nitrogen dioxide from is less crimp. MACROFIBRIL indoor air due to their high reactivity to the amino acid side PHOTOFIBRILIS -chains in the keratin molecules. CORTICAL CELL MICROFIBRIL The cortical cells are surrounded and help together by a cell membrane complex, acting similarly to mortar holding bricks together in a wall. The cell membrance complex contains proteins and waxy lipids and runs through the entire fiber. The molecules in this region have fairly weak intermolecular bonds, which can break down when exposed to continued abrasion and strong chemicals. The cell membrane complex allows easy uptake of dye molecules.

CORTEX - Interior cortex is hydrophillic MACROFIBRIL [highly water absorbing] and can Inside the cortical cells are long filaments called macrofibrils. These are made up of bundles of even finer filaments called microfibrils, which are absorb 1/3 its weight in moisture. surrounded by a matrix region. This allows wool fiber to remove humidity from indoor air without feeling damp. MATRIX The matrix consists of high sulfur proteins. This makes wool absorbent because sulfur atoms attract water molecules. Wool can absorb up to 30% of its weight in water and can also absorb and retain large amounts of dye. This region is also responsible for wool’s fire resistance and anti-static properties. CUTICULAR NUCLEAR REMNANT EXTERIOR SCALE - Outer layers of the wool MICROFIBRIL fiber are hydrophobic [water Within the matrix area, there are embedded smaller units called microfibrils. The microfibrils in the matrix are rather like steel rods embedded in EPICUTICLE resistant] which increases reinforced concrete to give strength and flexibility. The microfibrils contain pairs of twisted molecular chains, called photofibrilis and inside the keratin PARACORTEX stain resistance and lowers molecure. the need for cleaning. EXOCUTICLE TWISTED MOLECULAR CHAIN AND HELICAL COIL ORTHOCORTEX Within the twisted photofibrilis molecular chains are protein chains called keratin molecure, that are coiled in a helical shape much like a spring. This structure is stiffened by hydrogen bonds and disulphide bonds within the protein chains. They link each coil of the helix, helping to prevent it stretching. The helical coil - the smallest part of the fiber - gives wool is flexibility, elasticity and resilience, which helps wool fabric keep its shape and ENDOCUTICLE remain winkle-free in use. The keratin molecure effectively and permanently removes VOC’s from indoor air due to the high reactivitiy of the toxins to the amino-acid side chains. 66 Figure 5.2

ACOUSTIC ABSORPTION

1.2 1 0.8 0.6

(m2 Sab) 0.4 0.2

ABSORPTION COEF. 0 100 1000 10000 FREQUENCY (Hz)

CELLULOSE (Isofloc) 60mm MINERAL WOOL 40mm

SHEEP WOOL 60mm RECYCLED LATEX + COCO 40mm POLYSTYRENE PST 40mm HEMP BRICK (66%) 300mm

ACOUSTIC PERFORMANCE OF BUILDING ELEMENTS WITH ORGANIC INSULATION MATERIALS 33rd Internoise | 2004 | Prague, CZ Figure 5.3

68 INDUSTRIAL FELT PANEL ACOUSTIC TESTING 0.80 FELT TAPESTRY PANEL ANNE KYYRO QUINN STUDIO | LONDON, ENGLAND 0.80 0.60 Laine Tulip 0.60 0.40 Figure 5.6 Laine Tulip 3-D FELTS, 2MM, ABSORPTION COEFFICIENTS 0.40 Felt Frequency (Hz) ISO 0.20 NRC Style Class 3-D FELTS,63 125 2MM,250 ABSORPTION500 1000 2000 COEFFICIENTS4000 8000 Laine 0.28 0.20 0.23 0.36 0.56 0.65 0.76 0.69 D(H) Felt Frequency (Hz) ISO 0.45 0.20 Tulip 0.22 0.18 0.19 0.32 0.57 0.64 0.72 0.65 D(H) NRC0.43 0 Style 63 125 250 500 1000 2000 4000 8000 Class 63 125 250 500 1000 2000 4000 8000 Laine 0.28 0.20 0.23 0.36 0.56 0.65 0.76 0.69 D(H) - ISO CLASS : D 0.45 Tulip FREQUENCY (Hz) - STRONG0.22 HIGH0.18 0.19EFFICIENCY0.32 0.57 RATING0.64 0.72 0.65 D(H) 0.43 SABINE ABSORPTION COEFFICIENT 0 63 125 250 500 1000 2000 4000 8000 - MID TO HIGH-RANGE FREQUENCIES (1000 Hz OR GREATER) LAINE TULIP - APPLICATION: USEFUL TO LIMIT NOISE FROM CONVERSATIONAL FREQUENCY (Hz) FELT TAPESTRY PANEL TAPESTRY FELT SPEECH, FOOTFALLS OR HIGH PITCHED MACHINEIRY Figure 5.4 Figure 5.8

2.50 ACOUSTIC MOUNTED PANEL

2.002.50

1.502.00 Figure 5.7 1.001.50 ACOUSTIC PANEL, 100MM, ABSORPTION COEFFICIENTS Leaf Felt Frequency (Hz) ISO Tulip NRC 0.501.00 Style 1000 2000 4000 8000 Class ACOUSTIC63 125PANEL,250 100MM,500 ABSORPTION COEFFICIENTS Leaf Leaf 0.00 0.28 1.20 1.38 01.10 1.13 1.00 1.83 A Felt Frequency (Hz) ISO 1.20 Tulip Tulip 0.00 0.37 0.22 1.32 1.15 01.07 1.09 2.12 A NRC1.19 0.50 Style 63 125 250 500 1000 2000 4000 8000 Class 0 63 125 250 500 1000 2000 4000 8000 Leaf ISO CLASS0.00 0.28 : A 1.20 1.38 01.10 1.13 1.00 1.83 A 1.20 TULIP - FREQUENCY (Hz)

LEAF Tulip 0.00 0.37 0.22 1.32 1.15 01.07 1.09 2.12 A 1.19 SABINE ABSORPTION COEFFICIENT - HIGHEST RANKING 0 63 125 250 500 1000 2000 4000 8000 - 50mm FOAM FILLING

ACOUSTIC MOUNTED PANEL - CONTROLS ECHOES AND REVERBERATION FREQUENCY (Hz) Figure 5.5 APPLICATION: USEFUL WHERE STRONG SOUND ABSORPTION 70 - Figure 5.9 AND SPEECH INTELLIGIBILITY ARE REQUIRED Figure 5.11

HUMIDITY REGULATION

100 EMPTY CHAMBER

90 WOOL HAS THE ABILITY TO REGULATE THE HUMIDITY OF AN INTERIOR DUE TO THE MATRIX INSIDE THE CORTICAL 80 CELL. THE MATRIX CONSISTS OF HIGH SULFUR PROTEINS C HAM THAT CAUSE THE SULFUR ATTOMS TO ATTRACT AND BER WITH WOOL ABSORB WATER MOLECULES. WOOL CAN ABSORB UP TO 70 CARPET 30% OF ITS WEIGHT IN WATER. WHEN THE ATMOSPHERE IS DAMP, THE FIBER ABSORBS WATER VAPOUR - OR 60 MOISTURE AND RELEASES IT WHEN THE ATMOSPHERE IS

% RELATIVE HUMIDITY % RELATIVE DRY, CREATING A MORE COMFORTABLE INDOOR ENVIRONMENT. 50

PERIOD OF MOISTURE GENERATION PERIOD OF MOISTURE ABSORPTION 40 0 20 40 60 80 100 120 140 160 MINUTES

EFFECT OF WOOL FIBER USED FOR CARPETS ON AMBIENT RELATIVE HUMIDITY IN A SMALL TEST CHAMBER Meade European Community Respiratory Health Study | 1998 Figure 5.10 72 U.S. CENTER FOR DISEASE DANGER CONTROL + PREVENTION TH EFFE LEVEL 2 Figure 5.12 L C INDOOR AIR QUALITY TERMINOLOGY A T E S H Viral Infections Respiratory Infections Bronchitis Dizziness IEQ - INDOOR ENVIRONMENTAL QUALITY Fatigue

“Indoor Environmental Quality (IEQ) refers to the quality of a building’s environment in relation to the health and wellbeing of those who occupy space within. IEQ is determined by many factors, including lighting, air quality, and damp condutions. Workers are often NFECTIOUS concerned that they have symptoms or health conditions form exposure to contaminants in the buildings where they work, this of often I AG E referred to as Sick Building Syndrom (SBS)” - Center For Disease Control and Prevention Bacteria N Influenza Chicken Pox T DANGER Measles Tuberculosis S S Virus Legionella E Mold Strep IAQ - INDOOR AIR QUALITY LEVEL L Pollen 1 C I Mold

T Fungi “Indoor Air Quality (IAQ) is a term referring to the air quality within and around buildings and structures, especially as it relates to the

R Tobacco Smoke Formaldehyde T E O

health and comfort of building occupants.” - Environmental Protection Agency TH FFE A

L C P

A T Dust Mites Carbon Monoxide X

E S

Methylene Chloride I I

H Milldew C

Breathlessness

N Nitrogen Dioxide Pet Hair C

Asthma Irritation E

Dust Pesticides O G

Runny Nose M

R Tolulene P

VOC - VOLATILE ORGANIC COMPOUND E

Wheezing O

Benzene U

Coughing N D EF S H F LT EC A T “Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs) are emitted as gases from certain solids or liquids. VOCs include a variety of chemicals, some of E S H Memory Lapse which may have short and long-term adverse health effects. Concentrations of many VOCs are consistently higher indoors (up to ten Mild Depression times higher) than outdoors. VOCs are emitted by a wide variety of products numbering in the thousands. Examples include: paint and Lung Dysfunction lacquers, paint strippers, cleaning supplies, pesticides, building materials and furnishings and office equipment.” - Environmental Protec- Blurred Vision Headaches tion Agency Lethargy

DANGER LEVEL 3 74 PRIORITY CHEMICAL POLLUTANTS IN US HOMES: 9 INDOOR ENVIRONMENT DEPARTMENT, ENVIRONMENTAL ENERGY TECHNOLOGIES DIVISION FORMALDEHYDE CANCER + NONCANCER “An important chemical used widely by industry to manufacture building materials and numerous household products. Sources indoors include: building materials, smoking, household products and the use of unvented, fuel burning appliances like gas stoves or kerosene ACETALDEHYDE space heaters. Formaldehyde is also used to add permanent-press qualities to clothing and draperies, as a component of glues and CANCER + NONCANCER adhesives and as a preservative in some paint and coating products. In homes, the most significant source of formaldehyde is likely to be “primary source in indoor environments is construction lumber. Secondary source comes from the combustion of hydrocarbons during pressed wood products using urea-formaldehyde (UF) resins. Pressed wood products used indoors include: particle board (used as cooking, smoking and drinking alcohol” subflooring, shelving, cabinetry and furniture); hardwood plywood paneling (used for decorative wall covering, cabinets and furniture); and medium density fiberboard (MDF) (used for drawer fronts, cabinets and furniture tops). Medium density fiberboard contains a higher resin-to-wood ratio than any other UF pressed wood products and is generally recognized as being the highest formaldehyde-emitting ACROLEIN pressed wood product. Formaldehyde is also released through combustion sources and in tobacco smoke” NONCANCER -Oven cleaning for 5.5h – released a concentration of 417 (lg/m3) “used as a chemical intermediate in the production of acrylic acid and its esters. It is used directly as an aquatic herbicide and algicide in -Cooking fish for 3h – 129(lg/m3) irrigation canals, as a microbiodice in oil wells, liquid hydrocarbon fuels, cooling-water towers and water treatment ponds, and as a slimicide in the manufacture of paper. In addition, acrolein is produced from the combustion of fossil fuels, tobacco smoke and pyrolyzed animal and vegetable fats” NAPHTHALENE CANCER + NONCANCER BENZENE “used as a fumigant for the control of moths and as a space deodorizer for closets or toilet bowls. Naphthalene is very common in CANCER building materials: flooring (vinyl flooring, carpet, underpad), pressed wood materials, vinyl furniture, foam, paint, primer, coating, “formed from both natural processes and human activities. Natural sources include volcanoes and forest fires and is a natural part of crude caulking, adhesives and many common cleaning products.” oil, gasoline and cigarette smoke. Benzene is also used industrially to make other chemicals in the production of plastics, resins, nylon and other synthetic fibers, rubbers, dyes, detergents, drugs and pesticides. Benzene found indoors comes from glues, paints, furniture wax and detergents.” NITROGEN DIOXIDE NONCANCER “primary source of nitrogen dioxide in indoor environments are combustion processes, such as unvented combustion applianzed ex. Gas 1,3-BUTADIENE stoves, vented appliances with defective installations, kerosene heaters, welding and tobacco smoke.” CANCER -Unvented fireplace use for 1h - 2422 (lg/m3) “primary sources of 1,3-butadiene in indoor environments is tobacco smoke. The overheating of certain cooking oils release butadiene -Oven cleaning for 5.5h – 1435 (lg/m3) into the air, as well as the fugitive emissions from wood stoves and fireplaces.” -Cooking French fries on gas stove for 2.5h – 722 (lg/m3)

1,4-DICHLOROBENZENE FINE PARTICLE POLLUTION CANCER NONCANCER “is used as a fumigant for the control of moths and mildew and as a space deodorant for toilets and refuse containers. The general “fine particle pollution describes particulate matter that has 2.5 micrometers in diameter and smaller than 1/30th the diameter of a human population is mainly exposed to 1,4-Dichlorobenzene through breathing vapors from products containing the chemical, used in the home hair. Fine particle pollution can be emitted directly or formed secondarily in the atmosphere. Example: Sulfates are a type of secondary for mothballs and toilet deodorizer blocks.” particle formed from sulfur dioxide emission from power plants and industrial facilities.” 76 Figure 5.14

VOC SOURCES + HUMAN HEALTH Figure 5.13

VOC - VOLATILE ORGANIC SOURCE ADVERSE HUMAN COMPOUND HEALTH EFFECTS

FORMALDEHYDE

NITROGEN DIOXIDE

SULFUR DIOXIDE

78 300 FIBER ABSORPTION OF INDOOR AIR CONTAMINANTS WOOL 300 NYLON WOOL

200 NYLON

700 WOOL 200 NYLON 600 POLYESTER 100 500

100 400 CONCENTRATION OF FORMALDEYHDE (ppm) CONCENTRATION 300 0 0 1 2 3 4 CONCENTRATION OF FORMALDEYHDE (ppm) CONCENTRATION 200 0 HOURS 0 1 2 3 4 COMPARISON OF THE ABSORPTIONS OF INDOOR AIR CONTAMINANTS BY 100 FORMALDEHYDE 5CARPET PILE FIBERS SUSPENDED INHOURS A TEST CHAMBER FOR 24 HRS + 60 MINS

ABSORPTION (mg of contaminant per kg of fiber) AgResearch Lincoln | Christchurch, New Zealand 4 0 Figure 5.16 5 FORMALDEHYDE SULFUR DIOXIDE NITROGEN OXIDES 3

4 2 NYLON 3 COMPARISON OF THE ABSORPTIONS OF INDOOR AIR CONTAMINANTS BY 1 WOOL CARPET PILE FIBERS SUSPENDED IN A TEST CHAMBER FOR 24 HRS 2 FORMALDEYHDE (ppm)

NYLON AgResearch Lincoln | Christchurch, New Zealand 0

Figure 5.15 1 0 10 20 30 40 50 60 WOOL

FORMALDEYHDE (ppm) MINUTES

0 0 10 20 30 40 50 60 80 MINUTES 300 1-40

WOOL WOOL 1-20 250 NYLON NYLON COTTON 1-00 200 RAYON

0-80 150 0-60

100 0-40

50 0-20 RATE OF SORPTION | SULFUR DIOXIDE RATE CONCENTRATION OF NITROGEN DIOXIDE (ppm) DIOXIDE OF NITROGEN CONCENTRATION

0 0 SULFUR DIOXIDE

NITROGEN DIOXIDE 0 4 8 12 16 20 24 0 10 20 30 40 50 60

HOURS MINUTES

ABSORPTION RATE COMPARISON OF NITROGEN DIOXIDE USING WOOL COMPARISON OF SULFUR DIOXIDE SORPTION RATES FOR WOOL, COTTON, RAY- AND NYLON HANKS IN A TEST CHAMBER FOR 24 HOURS ON AND NYLON FIBERS IN A TEST CHAMBER, EQUILIBRATED AT 84 F WRONZ Euro Lab Ltd. | West Yorkshire, United Kingdom Environmental and Medical Sciences Division of UK Atomic Energy Research | United Kingdom Figure 5.17 Figure 5.18

82 PRECEDENTS CLAUDY JONGSTRA

LOCATION : SPANNUM, NETHERLANDS

MATERIAL : 100% WOOL ROVING

PROCESSING : RAISES HER OWN SHEEP, MAKES BY HAND, NATURAL DYE WITH GARDEN PLANTS

FINISHED PIECES: ACOUSTIC WALL PANELS, ART PANELS, OVERSCALE ART INSTALLATIONS

Figure 6.2

Figure 6.4 Figure 6.5

Figure 6.1 Figure 6.3 JANICE ARNOLD

LOCATION : NEW YORK, NY

MATERIAL : INDUSTRIAL FELT + NATURAL WOOL ROVING

PROCESSING : MECHANICAL MANUFACTURING + HAND WORK, SYNTHETIC + NATURAL DYES

FINISHED PIECES: ACOUSTIC PAN- ELS, SPACE INSTALLATIONS, CURTAINS + ART PIECES

Figure 6.8

Figure 6.6 Figure 6.7

Figure 6.9 Figure 6.10 Figure 6.11 88 ROBERT MORRIS

LOCATION : NEW YORK, NY

MATERIAL : INDUSTRIAL FELT

PROCESSING : MECHANICAL MANUFACTURING + HAND WORK, SYNTHETIC DYES

FINISHED PIECES: INSTALLATION ART + SCULPTURE

Figure 6.13 Figure 6.16 Figure 6.18

Figure 6.12 Figure 6.14 Figure 6.15 Figure 6.17 Figure 6.19 ANNE KYYRO QUINN

LOCATION : LONDON, UK

MATERIAL : INDUSTRIAL FELT

PROCESSING : MECHANICAL MANUFACTURING + HAND WORK, SYNTHETIC DYES

FINISHED PIECES: ACOUSTIC WALL PANELS, ART PANELS, SOFT INTERIOR DECOR FURNISHINGS

Figure 6.22

Figure 6.20 Figure 6.21

Figure 6.23 Figure 6.24 DANA BARNES

LOCATION : NEW YORK, NY

MATERIAL : 100% WOOL ROVING, YARN + INDUSTRIAL FELT

PROCESSING : BY HAND, SYNTHETIC DYES

FINISHED PIECES: OVERSCALE ART, RUGS, WALL COVERING, SEATING

Figure 6.26

Figure 6.28 Figure 6.29 94

Figure 6.25 Figure 6.27 KATHRYN WALKER

LOCATION : TORONTO, CANADA

MATERIAL : INDUSTRIAL FELT

PROCESSING : MECHANICAL MANUFACTURING + SYNTHETIC DYES

FINISHED PIECES: ACOUSTIC WALL + CEILING PANELS, ART PANELS, SOFT INTERIOR DECOR FURNISHINGS

Figure 6.32

Figure 6.30 Figure 6.31

Figure 6.33 Figure 6.34 JOSEPH BEUYS

WAS LOCATED IN GERMANY

MATERIAL : INDUSTRIAL FELT

PROCESSING : MECHANICAL MANUFACTURING + NATURAL COLOR

FINISHED PIECES: LARGE SCALE ART INSTALLATIONS

Figure 6.36 Figure 6.39

98 Figure 6.35 Figure 6.37 Figure 6.38 Figure 6.40 RUFF COLLAR + RUFF ROSE PANEL FALL 2012

A MODERN VERSION OF A 17TH CENTURY RUFF COLLAR MADE WITH INDUSTRIAL FELT. THIS FORM THEN INSPIRED THE CREATION OF AN INTERIOR SKIN, Figure 6.47 ALSO USING INDUSTRIAL FELT AND SYNTHETIC DYES USING A WICKING TECHNIQUE TO CREATE FORCED DEPTH WITHIN THE FORM. THIS PANEL WAS CREATED AS AN ACOUSTIC PANEL FOR CEILING OR WALL APPLICATION.

Figure 6.41 Figure 6.42

Figure 6.48

100

Figure 6.43 Figure 6.44 Figure 6.45 Figure 6.46 Figure 6.49 THE RUFF COLLAR + THE RUFF ROSE PANEL

The Ruff Collar

To construct a second skin for the body at full scale. Inspired by the history of the ruff collar, originally worn by Queen Elizabeth in 1565, this accessory held a great level of status that was often shown through scale. The traditional design began with ten yards of fabric, starched and set into elaborate figure-of-eight folds by the use of heated cone-shaped goffering irons. At the most extreme, ruffs were a foot or more wide; requiring a wire frame to support and hold them at a fashionable angle.

The edge condition of the traditional ruff collars served as the initial inspiration for a modern version of this accessory. Working with all natural industrial felt allowed for structure and form through folding, pinching and minimal sewn connections. The final concept takes inspiration from the figure- of-eight pattern in a much larger, over-scale design with an open front collar.

The Ruff Rose Panel

To create a third skin that bridges the scale, materiality and craftsmanship of body to that of a building. Using the second skin Ruff Collar design: the modern version of a 17th century ruff collar and the shape and form as precedent for an interior skin. This skin forms a modular wall or ceiling panel made of natural felt that improves acoustics with its soft, absorbing material qualities and large surface area. Research in materials and indoor air quality has recently found that felt absorbs VOC’s, such as formaldehyde, from interior environments. This requires the panel to be washed and cleaned to release the absorbed VOC’s. The panel is constructed from all natural industrial felt and hand dyed with a wicking technique to add texture and implied depth to the composition. Each module has a unique dye pattern, and has been hand sewn in pairs and strategically placed on the felt backing. The soft felt backing allows a variety of installation options, from hanging to mounted, from wall to ceiling. The Ruff Rose wall panel has direct ties to the body and fashion and creates an unexpected interior application while also serving as a functional piece of art.

tamara kinney, M.ID CLASS of 2014 NATURAL DYEING Figure 7.1

NATURALLY DYED WOOL ROVING 1. TO PREPARE NATURAL DYE: CHOP PLANT, VEGETABLE, FRUIT OR ROOT INTO SMALL PIECES. 2. BOIL ORGANIC MATERIAL IN A POT OF WATER AND SIMMER FOR AN HOUR. 3. WHILE PREPARING DYE, SOAK WOOL IN A SALT BATH FOR BERRY DYES OR A VINEGAR BATH FOR PLANT DYES. 4. DRAIN ORGANIC MATERIAL FROM DYE AND KEEP LIQUID. 5. DRAIN ALL EXCESS WATER FROM WOOL IN DYE BATH. 6. PLACE WOOL IN LUKE WARM DYE WATER ON THE STOVE AND SLOWLY BRING TO A BOIL. BE CAREFUL NOT TO STIR TOO OFTEN OR CAUSE AGITATION, AS IT WILL START FELTING. BOIL TILL THE WATER RUNS CLEAR AND DYE IS ABSORBED INTO WOOL. 7. RINSE WOOL AND HANG TO DRY

104 ARRANGE SOAP + WATER HOW TO WET FELT : - 100% organic white linen textile - Naturally dyed wool roving - Roll of bubble wrap - 1+ yards of undyed tulle textile - Natural olive oil soap - Water

Figure 7.3 1. 2.

LAYER TULLE AGITATE

3. 4.

106 Figure 7.2 Figure 7.4

BLACKBERRIES

108 Figure 7.5

TURMERIC

110 Figure 7.6

SPINACH

112 Figure 7.7

BEETS

114 NATURAL DYE COMPOSITION Figure 7.8 NOTES + FURTHER RESEARCH POINTS

SUCCESSFUL

- VINEGAR + SALT DYE BATHS GREATLY INCREASE COLORFASTNESS

- COARSE WOOL ABSORBS DYE WELL + IS OPTIMAL FOR WET FELTING

- BLACKBERRIES AND SPINACH WERE BOTH SUCCESSFUL DYES

UNSUCCESSFUL

- FINE SPICES OR GRAINY ORGANIC MATERIAL IS HARD TO RINSE CLEAR OUT OF WOOL AND BLEEDS WHEN WET FELTED

- BEETS DID NOT PRODUCE A DEEP RED COLOR AS EXPECTED - TRY OTHER ORGANIC OPTIONS

FURTHER RESEARCH FOUND

- DYE DECREASES THE WOOLS ABSORPTION RATE, EVEN WHEN NATURAL

- THEREFORE, WOOL SHOULD BE LEFT IN THE MOST NATURAL STATE POSSIBLE BLACKBERRIES TURMERIC SPINACH BEETS

116 WOOL PROTOTYPES WOOL PROTOTYPES Figure 8.2 122 Figure 8.3 7. 4. 1. 8. 5. 2. 9. 6. 3. Figure 8.6 Figure 8.4 Figure 8.7 Figure 8.5

TRANSLATION #1 Figure 8.8 124 SOFT ROSE TRANSLATION WET HAND FELTING NATURAL ROVING Figure 8.10

MOVING FORWARD | NATURAL UNFELTED WOOL

Further research has stated that the wool fiber’s absorption capacity is best when CIRCULAR FELT FORM + TECHNIQUE EXPLORATION completely untreated, in it’s natural roving state. This is true for hand-processed, toxin- Figure 8.9 free natural wool roving; an ideal design would incorporate unfelted wool fiber’s, as wet felting requires soap. Natural olive oil based soap was considered, but also proven to decrease the fiber’s absorption abilities. All further design prototypes will implement fabrication methods that require no felting, fasteners or adhesives.

126 DESIGN CONSTRAINTS

NO INDUSTRIAL FELT [TOXIC PROCESSING] - USE ONLY NATURAL ROVING

NO MASS PRODUCTION OR MODULAR SYSTEM - NO INDUSTRIAL FELT OR MECH. PROCESSING

NO SYNTHETIC DYES [CHEMICALS] OR NATURAL DYES - HINDERS ABSORPTION CAPACITY

NO CHEMICAL BASED SOAPS [TOXINS] - IDEALLY NO WET FELTING TO SOAP REQUIRED

DESIGN FOR INCREASED SURFACE AREA - IMPROVES ACOUSTIC, HUMIDITY + VOC ABSORPTION

LOCAL WOOL ROVING SOURCES - ELIMINATES TRANSPORTION EMISSIONS + FUEL REQUIREMENTS

SMALL-SCALE FIBER PRODUCTION - HAND PROCESSING : NO TOXINS + NO MECHANICAL ENERGY

NATURAL WOOL ROVING + CUSTOM DESIGNED APPLICATIONS - UNIQUE + SUSTAINABLE

MAKING - HANDMADE, CUSTOM PRODUCT WITH CONSIDERATION FOR THE ENTIRE LIFECYCLE

120 Figure 8.1 Figure 8.11 Figure 8.14

INSPIRATION | HILL COUNTRY MAPPING | CENTRAL TEXAS INSPIRATION | HILL COUNTRY LANDSCAPE | CENTRAL TEXAS

128 Figure 8.12 Figure 8.13 Figure 8.15 Figure 8.16 Figure 8.17

MAKING METHODS: EXPLORING CROCHET Figure 8.8

HILINSPIRATIONL COUNTRY NATIVE |V EHILLGETAT COUNTRYION | THE YUC CNATIVEA. VEGETATION | THE YUCCA

Figure 8.21

Figure 8.20 Figure 8.22 130 Figure 8.18 Figure 8.19 MAKING METHODS: EXPLORING CROCHET Start with crocheting a bowl-like form, varrying single crochet stitches once or twice through each loop. This will form tension as the piece grows, causing the wave-like edges as you continue.

Figure 8.23 Figure 8.24 Figure 8.25 Figure 8.26

132 Figure 8.27 Figure 8.29

CHRISTOPHER WOOL INSPIRED BOOK COVER Figure 8.30 Figure 8.28 Figure 8.31 134 KEY PROPERTIES FOR A SUCCESSFUL DESIGN AFTERLIFE + DISPOSAL CONSIDERATIONS

LOCAL WOOL SUPPLIER - SUPPORT LOCAL ECONOMY + SMALL FARMS

HAND PROCESSED WOOL ROVING - LOW ENERGY DEMAND + LOW-ZERO CHEMICAL USE TEXTILE RECOVERY FACILITIES

COARSE FIBER WOOL - MORE DENSE TO ABSORB HIGHER QUANTITIES OF VOCs, HUMIDITY + NOISE ENERGY TEXTILE CAN BE “PULLED” APART INTO A FIBROUS STATE AND REUSED BY THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY FOR LOW-GRADE APPLICATIONS, SUCH AS CAR INSULATION OR SEAT STUFFING.

COARSE FIBER WOOL - LOWER COST + IN LESS DEMAND IN COMPARISON TO MERINO

UNDYED + NATURAL STATE - DYEING + TOXINS HINDER ABSORPTION CAPABILITIES IN WOOL FIBER

VERNACULAR-BASED DESIGN - CUSTOM DESIGN BASED ON LOCAL WOOL FIBER + INTERIOR INTERVENTIONS A COMPOST PRODUCT

INCREASED SURFACE AREA - FOR OPTIMAL ACOUSTIC CONTROL, HUMIDITY REGULATION + VOC ABSORPTION WASTE WOOL IS USED IN AGRICULTURE AND COMPOSTING. WHEN BURRIED IN THE SOIL, WOOL IMPROVES THE WATER RENENTION AND WATER DISTRIBUTION IN SOIL ACTING AS A SLOW RELEASE FERTILIZER.

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