sign in sign up
<<
Home , Costa Brava, Figueres, Gualta, Tossa de Mar

EXPLORE The The

Dubbed the Savage Coast by a journalist in the early 20th century, this north- Costa easternBrava coastline has a far softer side, as Andy Mossack discovers.

The hilltop town of Begur with its 16th century Roman castle.

ooking out at the small bay work and where, since his death in 1989, his opposite Chef Lluís Ferrés’ fine remains lie (under the largest egg of course!). It restaurant at the Aiguà Blava Hotel was originally the old town theatre before it was in beautiful Begur, you would be bombed during the civil war and after The Prado, forgiven for thinking you were it’s the most visited museum in . somewhere else entirely. Amalfi, itself is worth a day or two to wander around, Lor even Positano perhaps? All the ingredients are with its charming old town and castle as focal there, the shimmering Mediterranean, the cosy points. You can also use it as an excellent base to whitewashed houses rising up high above the small explore the rest of the surrounding Alt Empordà bay, the craggy coastline. region and in particular, the sleepy fishing village But somewhat surprisingly, this is the Costa of Cadaqués which became a veritable bohemian Brava, and the Aiguà Blava occupies a rather magnet for many artists including Picasso, beautiful piece of it. For many, this 100-mile Duchamp and Miro. stretch of Catalan coastline in north-east Not to be outdone, Dalí built a maze-like home Spain, has struggled to compete with the more studio nearby out of old abandoned fishing huts A bay at . glamorous reputation of the other Costas further which you can visit today with a reservation in south, mainly due to the notoriety of Lloret de advance (www.salvador-dali.org/museus). Mar, its less than illustrious high rise resort just hijacked by its other coastal neighbours, and While in the area, how about visiting the best north of . But for those in the know, perhaps these days is synonymous for many chef in the world? Just a five-minute drive from the Costa Brava is Spain’s hidden gem; a provider things Spanish, in it’s still somewhere the nearby popular harbour town of Roses lies the of some of the finest cuisine in Spain with 14 very special. After all, it’s a part of Spain that’s little pebbly beach of Cala Monjoi hidden within Michelin stars, the birthplace of Salvador Dalí fiercely proud and protective of its heritage, the Natural Park. Here you’ll find and the inspiration for Picasso, no less than nine culture, language and cuisine. the famous Michelin three-star elBulli Restaurant, championship golf courses, and some simply Taking a journey around its historic shores, is owned and run by Ferran Adrià, said to be the stunning towns, villages, forests and bays. Ferran Agulló’s Costa Brava really as savage as its world’s best chef. The restaurant reputedly gets Back on 12th September 1908, name suggests? over three million dining requests a year, but is based journalist Ferran Agulló wrote a piece Tucked away in the north-east corner is sadly no longer taking reservations. It closes in in the esteemed Catalan newspaper La Veu Salvador Dalí’s home town of Figueres, a July and in 2014 will be reborn as a foundation of de Catalunya, where he described the rugged beautiful area that not only provided much of gastronomic creativity. Still, it’s worth a visit just coastline stretching from to the French his inspiration, but where today his legacy and to see a piece of culinary history (www.elbulli.info). The resort of border at , as the ‘Savage Coast’ or influence is still very much in evidence. No more Travelling further south, the Baix Empordà and the rugged coastline Costa Brava in Catalan. A hundred years on, so than at the striking egg domed Dalí Theatre- region is home to some of the best coastal scenery of the Costa Brava. although the Costa moniker may have been Museum, a structure that was Dalí’s largest in Spain, its mountainous terrain courtesy of >

30 Living Spain SUMMER 2011 SUMMER 2011 Living Spain 31 EXPLORE The Costa Brava

Teeing off The has long been the signature plays with the maturity of many more years destination for Spanish golf, but the Costa under its belt. A mix of pines, olive trees, lakes Brava has been quietly building a reputation and rice fields, there is enough going on here amongst the golfing fraternity as a preferred to keep you focused on just hitting straight. option. Less crowds, lower green fees and Stand out holes for me are the water stretches superb courses such as the PGA Catalyuna of 13, 14, 15 and 16, where the threat of a Breath-taking views The Marimurtra Botanical combine to offer a real alternative. Here are watery grave is literally with you all along the over the village of Garden is a leafy balcony three of my personal favourites: fairways and right up to the greens. I suppose Cala de Sa Tuna. overlooking the cliffs in Blanes. the only saving grace, if you are suffering Emporda Golf www.empordagolf.com badly, is the spectacular view of the Montgri Designed by the highly regarded American mountains behind; the only trouble is they’re La Rambla, which is its own shopping and social architect Robert von Hagge there are two too far away to throw yourself off! centre, but nowhere near as touristic. outstanding courses here; The Forest is a Back on the coastal trail now and heading mature course with fairways meandering www.gualta.com for Blanes’ botanical wonders, you pass through Mediterranean pine forest. The As daft as it may seem to Brits, Pitch and Putt newer Links course is another matter entirely. is big in Spain. Not just big, but professionally through the delightful Tossa de Mar with its This runs through lakes and dunes in true big. Par 3 golf is taken very seriously as a remarkable old town, fortress and wide sandy links fashion and certainly wouldn’t be out professional sport, and when you think about beach. It was once the bohemian haunt of of place in Scotland. Each hole has been it, it helps regular players practice their short writers and artists who became captivated devilishly crafted to entice you into making game and gives new players a feel for what by the beautiful scenery, so grab a lunch of shots that you would steer clear of at home. a golf course is really like. There are ‘full size’ cheese, bread, chorizo, olives and wine and sit But you’ll make them anyway. Par 3s across the country and right here in awhile under a fragrant pine to soak it all in, in the Costa Brava, Gualta is one of the most a manner of speaking. Serres de www.golfserresdepals.com established. It has it all in miniature; lakes, Blanes is a favourite coastal haunt of local Serres de Pals may be only 10 years old, but it bunkers, and forest. Catalans looking to escape Barcelona, its wide beach and village atmosphere presenting a compelling argument to down tools and head Factfile for the sea. But it’s not all about sea and sangría Getting there La Costa Hotel is a beach and golf resort open from The Dalí Museum Aiguà Blava on the here. Blanes has two botanical garden paradises at Figueras. edge of Aiguà Blava cove. Ryanair has frequent flights to Girona April to October. Platja de Pals, 0034 972 667 740, that will be irresistible to any green-fingered lover f www.ryanair.com. Barcelona, just an hour from www.resortlacosta.com of the leaf. Girona, is served by all the major international the nearby Begur Massif. Reaching the delightful different from the norm, as you’ll find it spread out regional capital Girona, the Costa Brava’s beating The Marimurtra Gardens were founded in carriers. A new TGV high speed service has started Costa Brava Cuisine medieval town of Begur with its 16th century all around the small fishing cove, from the main heart. The walled old town on the western bank 1924 by German botanist Karl Faust and contain from to Figueres with direct routes to r The legendary Ferran Adrià and the castle and assorted Roman remains, you come house through to smaller little houses right next of the Onyar is a fascinating journey through plant life and fauna from around the world in Barcelona to begin in 2012 region’s other Michelin decorated chefs have lit to realise just how strategically important it to the sea, a product of bit-by-bit expansion by a thousand years of history. After all, it’s been three separate areas: tropical, temperate and the touchpaper on a huge resurgence of local was, perched high up there overlooking the the Sabater family, now in their fourth generation occupied more than seven times and, naturally Mediterranean. Boasting over 4,000 different Staying there gastronomy. The mountains and sea both provide coast. The narrow cobbled streets in Begur’s old as owners and managers. There are lovely little enough, absorbed many of the occupying cultures species, it fast became one of the most important h The Aiguà Blava Hotel is spread across the an abundance of fresh ingredients that celebrate town resonate a timeless quality as they lead niches and courtyards everywhere, and it is as a consequence. Take a ramparts walk along the botanical centres in Europe. cove of the same name, with the main house as delicious traditional Catalan cuisine with a local you down into the stunning beaches and bays difficult to distinguish hotel from village house. old walls, visit the stunning 14th century cathedral Pinya de Rosa on the other hand, another well as smaller houses next to the sea providing a twist. Suquet is a classic scorpion fish stew made that lie below. This is a town that is pure living That said though, it’s the position of the Aiguà and get hopelessly lost walking around El Call, botanical garden nearby, is a unique collection good range of accommodation. with fish, potatoes, garlic and tomatoes, whilst Platja de Fornells, Begur. 0034 972 622 058, Paella Catalan is the classic Sunday rice casserole history; its eight beaches and coves all linked by a Blava that’s so memorable. It’s as if the little cove the old Jewish Quarter with its myriad cobbled of over 7,000 tropical plants and cacti that have www.aiguàblava.com using rice from the wetlands of Pals, where it is in complex network of smugglers’ paths were the life is your own personal property, the water lapping streets and alleyways. managed to adjust to their new surroundings, Hotel Castell d’Empordà is a lovingly restored plentiful supply. Escalivada, baked onions, peppers canvas for pirates, sailors and fishermen; all past up gently to the village edge. No crowds, no traffic, Girona is an easy place to walk around on foot, thriving happily in the Mediterranean climate. rural castle, its rooms adorned with artifacts from and aubergine is another favourite together with generations of the townsfolk today. just a lovely cove (www.aiguàblava.com). like a smaller Barcelona but without the crowds. So the Savage Coast is not that savage after around the world. local lamb cooked with ratatouille. Brunyols are Nestled inside one of these delightful coves is If there’s time on your coastal journey south, Talking of Barcelona, don’t confuse Barca’s all really. Perhaps sly old Ferran Agulló was just La Bisbal, 0034 972 646 254, sweet sausage and apple dessert fritters whilst the Aiguà Blava Hotel. As hotels go, it’s a little it is well worth a 30-minute detour inland to the famous tourist trap Las Ramblas with Girona’s trying to keep it all for himself. www.castelldemporda.com Xuixo are delicious cream-filled doughnuts.

32 Living Spain SUMMER 2011 SUMMER 2011 Living Spain 33