Creative Travel #inCostaBrava
An eBook about where to stay, what to eat and how to engage as a creative traveler in Girona, Costa Brava, and the Pyrenees. 2
Acknowledgements
This eBook is based on the simple question asked by a team of visionary travel professionals: Why not explore Costa Brava as a creative traveler? What opportunities are there for creative, cultural travelers to become engaged with the local people in a series of hands-on, interactive, fun and engaging learning experiences? And where exactly are they to be found?
As an experienced creative traveler (check out my book, “The Creative Traveler’s Handbook” for an update about all things creative travel), I was very positively surprised by the wealth of creative activities #inCostaBrava. Writing this eBook with the professional help and assis- tance of the team of Costa Brava Tourist Board has thus been a wonderful dream come true.
I would like to thank, in particular, Jaume Marin for his unfaltering love and visionary support, Gemma Suñer for her deep kindness and handy assistance at all times, Dúnia Coromina for her wonderful encouragement, and Laia Cunill for simply being there and sharing many creative moments with us. To my friends and “partners in crime”, Janett Schindler, Christina Leutner, and Nicole Biarnes for putting up with our creative travel group trip, painting the butts of little “Caganers” (see page 21 of this eBook) and learning how to make Mojitos with fresh Catalan herbs (see page 11 of this eBook).
Finally, a word of Thankyou to my dear friends and families in Costa Brava, Girona and the Pyrenees. You have not only inspired me to learn Catalan as a language, thereby immersing myself in the local culture and traditions, but also shared with me, generously and more than I could have ever imagined, your passion and knowledge about all things Catalan, from music to history, from everyday life, to foodie traditions, creative arts and crafts, and much more. You have truly made me “one of you”, and I shall forever treasure you in my heart and in my mind.
Your “catalaneta”, Elena 3
Table of Contents
INTRODUCTION 5 Creative Travel as an international trend 5 How to use the present eBook about #CreativeTravel #inCostaBrava 5
THE CITY OF GIRONA 6 What to do as a Creative Traveler? 6 Cooking with “Local Market Girona” 7 Glass Workshop “Vitralls Can Pinyonaire” 8
Where to eat as a Creative Traveler? 9 Restaurant “Can Xifra” 9
THE COASTAL AREA OF COSTA BRAVA 10 What to do as a Creative Traveler? 10 Herbal Workshop at “Parc de les Olors” 11 Creative Pottery Workshop with Annick Galimont 12 Creative Decoration Workshop with Marta Xuclà 13 Creative Sewing Workshop “El Taller Costura” 14 Ceramic Tile Workshop with Josep Torres 15 Cheese Tasting with Núria Mercader i Valls 16 Olive Oil Tasting & Farm Visit at Can Solivera 17 Olive Oil Tasting & Farm Visit at Oli de Ventalló 18 Creative Workshop “Capgrossos” Ventura i Hosta 19 Creative Papermaking Workshop “Molí de la Farga” 20 Creative Painting Workshop “Make your own Caganer” 21
Where else to go #inCostaBrava? 22 4
Where to eat as a Creative Traveler? 26 Restaurant “Sa Lola” 27 Restaurant “Es Portal” 28 Restaurant “La Cort” 29 Restaurant “Divinum” 30 Restaurant “La Cantonada” 31 Restaurant “Vora Estany” 32 Restaurant “Carles Antoner” 33
Where to stay as a Creative Traveler? 34 Mas Masaller 35 Casa Matilda 36 Hotel Can Miquel 37
THE HILLS & MOUNTAINS OF THE PYRENEES 38 What to do as a Creative Traveler? 38 Calligraphy Workshop & Ethnographic Museum in Ripoll 39 Fine Glass Art Workshop with Jordi Traveria 40
Where to stay as a Creative Traveler? 41 Masia El Puig 42
FURTHER RESOURCES 43 5
Introduction
When I first travelled to Costa Brava in the spring of 2015, I knew virtually nothing about the land between “the sea and the mountains”, “mar i muntanya” as the Catalan people so proudly proclaim it. Edged between the soaring peaks of the Pyrenees to the north, the gently rolling hills of the Pre-Pyrenees to the west, the city of Girona to the south, and framed by the deep blue sea of the Mediterranean to the east, you may well and truly find yourself in another one of “God’s own countries” on Earth. No wonder I was falling in love. Learning Catalan fluently in a matter of months, I published my first book, “The Creative Traveler’s Handbook” while travelling #inCostaBrava. Then, only a year later, both me and my dedicated, hard-working team at Costa Brava Tourism Board, came up with an idea. Why not discover and share more about creative travel #inCostaBrava? Creative Travel as an international trend So what exactly is “creative travel”? The answer to this question is described, at length, in my book, which you are welcome to read and order here. To put it in a nutshell, creative travel means interactive culture travel in its purest sense, meaning that you get to learn from, and become friends with, the local people you meet on your journeys. How to use this eBook about #CreativeTravel #inCostaBrava Throughout this book, I have made many useful remarks about how you can experience the destination of Costa Brava, Girona and the Pyrenees as a creative traveler. The list of destinations, activities, accommodation and restaurants contained in this book is by no means an exhaustive one, nor does it account for the more general travel information you still need, such as visa requirements, health or travel insurance, transportation needs, etc. I have simply attempted to provide you with a good overview of some of the most popular places to go to for this particular travel style. All photographs, unless otherwise stated, are my own. Please respect the author’s copyrights in saving, sharing and using them. At the time of distribution, I have made sure of the accuracy of all the information provided, particularly where physical addresses, telephone numbers, website, email or Social Media contact details are concerned. Please note that some of them may have been removed, changed or otherwise altered by the time you use them. If you wish to get in touch about any further comment, annotation or query about this eBook, simply reach out to me via email and I shall gladly assist you: [email protected]. You can also contact the team at Costa Brava Tourism Board: [email protected]. 6
The City of Girona
The city of Girona is both the capital of, as well as the southern gateway to, the area that’s commonly known as Costa Brava-Pyrenees. Home to about 100.000 inhabitants, it is alive with year-round celebrations steeped in history and modern-day Catalan culture. Travelers, visitors and residents commonly merge around the city’s “open-air culture”, gather in one of the cozy local downtown areas and bars, or participate in major festivals, such as Girona Flower Festival (Temps de Flors), taking place each year in the spring.
Personally, I have always loved the creative, colorful vibe of the city of Girona, and it comes only natural to think of it as the perfect destination that marks the beginning of any kind of creative journey.
A view of the city of Girona during the annual Flower Festival, called “Temps de Flors”.
What to do as a Creative Traveler? As a creative traveler, I have limited myself to culinary and cultural experiences in the city of Girona. Knowing there are many more opportunities for the creative traveler to explore, here are some to get especially your taste buds started. 7
Cooking with “Local Market Girona”
The foodie feast is on in Girona! Learn how to cook your own candle light dinner: The girls at “Local Market Girona” offer you the perfect cooking class experience to dive into the succulent flavors of this essentially Mediterranean cuisine. You can learn how to create your own juicy chicken and seafood, served together with salad and “truita”, Catalan for the more well-known dish “Tortilla”, the Spanish omelet. Each dish is accompanied by matching wines from the area.
Besides welcoming you in English, Spanish and Catalan, the local owner-operators also speak fluent French! A foodie feast of about three to four hours, no previous cooking experience is required, and you will find “going with the flow” particularly enjoyable and, above all, delicious!
Get in touch • Email [email protected] • Call 0034 645 941 212 • Check out: localmarket.cat
Connect through Social Media • Join on Facebook • Follow on Instagram • Read more on Tripadvisor
Where is “Local Market Girona”? (Carrer Bonaventura i Carreras Peralta 5, 17004 Girona on Google Maps or click on map)
For even more information, follow this link to my travel blog. 8
Glass Workshop “Vitralls Can Pinyonaire”
Visiting Anna Santolaria’s creative glass studio is like diving right into the medieval heart of the city of Girona! Her passion for introducing visitors to the art of glass painting, a medieval technique whose basic principles are fascinating to study and learn, is truly infectious.
Get in touch • Email [email protected] • Call 0034 620 533 343 • Check out canpinyonaire.com
Connect through Social Media • Join on Facebook • Follow on Instagram • Follow on Google+
Where is “Vitralls Can Pinyonaire”? (Travessia de l‘Auriga, 5, 17004 Girona on Google Maps or click on map)
Where to eat as a Creative Traveler?
There is, of course, a rather endless list of (good) tapas bars, restaurants & taverns all over Girona, but I will mention the following for you in terms of their excellent location, their good value for money, as well as the quality of food we’ve enjoyed on our trip. Note that many restaurants will also offer a (separate) tapas menu, so you will find them almost everywhere – the ubiquitous food item to go for in Catalonia, and Spain. 9
Restaurant Can Xifra
A mere fifteen minutes’ drive from the city of Girona, Restaurant Can Xifra is a true insider tip of a place. Brought to us by the locals of Girona, we’ve enjoyed the coziness of a rural tavern paired with the proximity to the city of Girona. The food, too, is superb: The lamb I ordered was cooked to perfection, very flavorsome and tasty indeed.
Can Xifra is located in the small town of Cartellà, and easy to find on a map. I’d recommend you to drive there, or take a taxi, as we literally did not see any public transport going by.
Get in touch • Call 0034 972 428 546 • Check out canxifra.com
Connect through Social Media • Join on Facebook
Where is “Can Xifra”? (Carrer Mas Antigas s/nl, 17150 Cartellà, Girona on Google Maps or click on map)
For even more information, follow this link to my travel blog. 10
The coastal area of Costa Brava
“La Costa Brava”, in both Spanish & Catalan language, literally refers to “The Wild Coast”, and rightly so. Its untamed nature is reflected in both the coastline’s vegetation as well as its geological history, making for a whole world to discover beyond the rather well-known, sandy beaches of Blanes or Golf de Roses. Naturally, the territory lends itself to being explored among the creative minds of La Bisbal d’Empordà, a true hot-spot for pottery lovers. Yet even a visit to an olive grove can turn out to become truly hands-on: That is if your host teaches you all there is to know about the particular flavors of your local type of olive oil and welcomes you “behind the scenes” of just an ordinary factory visit.
In this chapter, I have elaborated well over a dozen creative activities for you, complete with a section recommending delightful places for lunch, tea or dinner as well as some suggestions for truly charming countryside escapes. You can easily plan your stay according to these travel tips, and immerse yourself in the cultural landscape that is the coastal area of Costa Brava, from Blanes in the south to Cap de Creus in the north.
View from the “window to the Costa Brava” in Blanes
What to do as a Creative Traveler? Creative travel abounds #inCostaBrava, and I have the immense pleasure of sharing the best among Costa Brava’s interactive, creative cultural offers with you. From cheese, herbs or olive oil tasting experiences, to pottery lessons, papermaking workshops and even painting your own “Caganer”, Catalonia’s infamous Christmas figure “characterized by its cheeky position in the Nativity scene” (refer to this link in order to find out more!), there is a lot for you to see and do.
To help you get started, contact either one of the following organizations, “VisitEmpordanet” ([email protected], VisitEmpordanet.com) or the local travel agency “Turismon” ([email protected], turismon.net). They are both experts in organizing local, creative trips for travelers #inCostaBrava and will be delighted to help. 11
Herbal Workshop at “Parc de les Olors”
Located right next to Costa Brava’s well-known Golf de Roses, just outside the fisherman’s town of L’Escala, “Parc de les Olors” lies face to face with some 2.000-year-old Greek and Roman ruins. The name of this herbal garden covering several hectares literally means “Aroma Park”. Understandable, as growing, and harvesting, aromatic herbs #inCostaBrava follows a tradition of several millennia!
During the creative activity, the team at “Parc de les Olors” will take you for a walk harvesting your own herbs for a light summer drink: We’ve even made our own Mojitos while I was there for the experience!
Watch the creative travel video here
Get in touch • Email [email protected] • Call 0034 645 941 212 • Check out: parcdelesolors.com
Connect through Social Media • Join on Facebook • Follow on Twitter • Follow on Instagram
Where is “Parc de les Olors”? (Parc de les Olors, Camí Vell de les Corts, 17130 L‘Escala on Google Maps or click on map)
For even more information, follow this link to my travel blog. 12
Creative Pottery Workshop with Annick Galimont
Traditionally, the area known as “Baix Empordà” (Lower Empordà) has been a bustling hub of all kinds of ceramic art. Increasing international competition, however, has led to many artists specializing in decorative objects, and now to the entire town of La Bisbal d’Empordà being “covered” in pottery flowers, decorative tiles, and other objects to greet you on your way into town. A lovely welcome to Costa Brava indeed!
During my stay, I got to mix and mingle with some of the artists there. One of them is Annick Galimont. I take to Annick immediately, a charming, self-confident artist-entrepreneur whose enthusiasm leads me to believe I can do anything creative with ceramics. Definitely visit her at her studio address in town!
Get in touch • Email [email protected] • Call 0034 972 646 806 • Check out: annickgalimont.wixsite.com/ceramics
Connect through Social Media • Join on Facebook • Follow on Instagram
Where is “Annick Galimont”? (Carrer Aigüeta, 72, 17100 La Bisbal d‘Empordà on Google Maps or click on map)
For even more information, follow this link to my travel blog. 13
Creative Decoration Workshop with Marta Xuclà
Joining a “Decorative Art Workshop”, I am in for bringing the colours, sights and sounds of the Empordà region on the table. Marta Xuclà Serra runs her own company at “Carolina Carolina”, and starts by taking me out into the surrounding landscape of “Baix Empordà”, including charming little villages and country roads. Ahead of being creative, I thus immerse myself into the sight, sound and smell of the land around me, inspiring me to pick and choose material for a creative decoration workshop later.
In addition to you being able to make your own Empordà souvenirs, Marta’s shop has many more little souvenirs available for purchase, all typical of the Empordà and Costa Brava regions.
Get in touch • Email [email protected] • Call 0034 972 201 016 • Check out: carolinacarolina.com
Connect through Social Media • Join on Facebook • Follow on Instagram • Pin on Pinterest
Where is “Marta Xuclà”? (Carrer Aigüeta, 6, 17100 La Bisbal d‘Empordà on Google Maps or click on map)
For even more information, follow this link to my travel blog. 14
Creative Sewing Workshop “El Taller Costura”
“Mum, I made my own beach basket today!”
This one, I had to call my mum straight after. I mean, how often are you offered a chance to join a local sewing studio for fastening your own beach basket? All that’s left, is going there straight after … and luckily, the beach is never far while travelling #inCostaBrava …!
Get in touch • Email [email protected] • Call 0034 626 673 211 • Check out: facebook.com/eltallercosturailabors
Connect through Social Media • Join on Facebook
Where is “El Taller Costura”? (Carrer Ample, 20, 17100 La Bisbal d‘Empordà on Google Maps or click on map)
For even more information, follow this link to my travel blog. 15
Ceramic Tile Workshop with Josep Torres
Josep Torres is a warm-hearted, welcoming man who delights in sharing his passion for ceramic tile painting with visitors. He has a huge wealth of different motives for painting on display, but you can of course also draw from your own inspiration. During the workshop, we learn how to “scratch-paint” our tiles first, then color them before they get burned and finished in the oven. Josep even offers to take all our addresses, and ship the ready-made products to us back home in Austria and Germany!
Get in touch • Email [email protected] • Call 0034 972 644 004 • Check out: ceramicatorres.com
Connect through Social Media • Join on Facebook • Follow on Twitter
Where is “Josep Torres”? (Carrer Aigüeta, 88a, 17100 La Bisbal d‘Empordà on Google Maps or click on map)
For even more information, follow this link to my travel blog. 16
Cheese Tasting with Núria Mercader i Valls
“Recuits Nuri” is a happy family business run by the lady of the house Núria Mercader i Valls together with her mother. With the help of a dedicated few, the female duo produces fresh cheese from their goats and sheep every day. Packaged and sold exclusively to local shops and restaurants, this is as fresh a cheese as it gets: A wonderful, and very tasty introduction to the land surrounding the tiny village of Ullastret #inCostaBrava, where “Recuits Nuri” is located.
Get in touch • Email [email protected] • Call 0034 972 757 674 • Check out: recuitsnuri.com
Connect through Social Media • Join on Facebook
Where is “Recuits Nuri”? (Carrer Vals, 2, 17114 Ullastret on Google Maps or click on map)
For even more information, follow this link to my travel blog. 17
Olive Oil Tasting & Farm Visit at Can Solivera
Right inside the beautiful, fertile hinterland of Costa Brava, you will find a “little island of Dutch-speaking families”, who as expats have fallen in love with, and chosen to stay, #inCostaBrava. Spearheaded by another “lady of the house”, local owner Sandra and her family have bought and developed the olive grove and farmland called “Can Solivera”, helping to raise the profile of an otherwise less popular olive oil variety, called Arbequina. Delicious, really, and not to be missed on your creative journey around Costa Brava, as even Harrods in London recommends you buy this olive oil!
Get in touch • Email [email protected] • Call 0034 972 634 096 • Check out: solivera.com
Connect through Social Media • Join on Facebook
Where is “Can Solivera”? (Camí de Fitor, 17111 Forallac, Girona on Google Maps or click on map)
For even more information, follow this link to my travel blog. 18
Olive Oil Tasting & Farm Visit at Oli de Ventalló
Josefina Sala, of “Oli de Ventalló” olive oil estate, is also known as the hard-working, forever- smiling “olive oil fairy” by her family. Just half an hour’s drive from Girona, you can visit charming Josefina at the olive groves of her family estate, complete with more than 600-year-old olive trees. Josefina delights in preparing a tasting right among the ancient trees, and even offers to teach us how to prepare a typical “Allioli” spicy garlic and olive oil sauce! Make sure you take at least half a day for your visit there, and bring / have her organize a little picnic for you, too!
Get in touch • Email [email protected] • Call 0034 972 793 076 • Check out: oliventallo.com
Connect through Social Media • Join on Facebook • Follow on Twitter • Follow on Instagram
Where is “Oli de Ventalló”? (Carrer de la Bassa, 20, 17473 Ventalló, on Google Maps or click on map)
For even more information, follow this link to my travel blog. 19
Creative Workshop “Capgrossos” Ventura i Hosta
The tiny little town of Navata is tucked away on the outskirts of Dalí’s city Figueres, a hotspot for creative arts and culture. Visiting local artists Neus and David has led me to discovering their world of “Ventura & Hosta”, a giant arts studio for building just that: Giants, called “Gegants” or “Capgrossos” in the native Catalan language. These giants, typically commis- sioned by local municipalities traditionally parade during religious and other ceremonies. Definitely worth watching during your visit! As I spend my afternoon with Neus and David, I even get to dance with one of their huge, dark-skinned lady giants, something I could never have imagined nor dreamed of in my entire life!
Get in touch • Email [email protected] • Call 0034 972 565 281 • Check out: venturahosta.net
Connect through Social Media • Join on Facebook
Where is “Ventura i Hosta”? (Carrer Ordis, 25, 17744 Navata on Google Maps or click on map)
For even more information, follow this link to my travel blog. 20
Creative Papermaking Workshop “Molí de la Farga”
Apart from visiting a medieval writer’s workshop (an activity I’ll tell you more about in my next chapter about creative travel in the Pyrenees), why not learn how to craft the very artisanal paper used to write on itself? This, too, is possible #inCostaBrava thanks to the “Paper Tailors” of Banyoles. At the end of the workshop, I am gifted with a bunch of hand-made paper sheets, as well as some paper filled with seeds, out of which I am promised mint leaves will grow. What a wonderful experience next to visiting the beautiful lake of Banyoles!
Get in touch • Email [email protected] • Call 0034 872 729 944 • Check out: sastrespaperers.com
Connect through Social Media • Join on Facebook • Follow “Aquari Handmade Paper”
Where is “Molí de la Farga”? (Carrer Concòrdia Aigües de l‘Estany, 1, 17820 Banyoles on Google Maps or click on map)
For even more information, follow this link to my travel blog. 21
Creative Painting Workshop “Make your own Caganer”
About half an hour north of La Bisbal d’Empordà, you will find the small town of Torroella de Montgrí, known for its cheeky “Caganer painting workshop”. Traditionally, “Caganers” (little pooing figures made from ceramics) form part of every Nativity Scene in Catalonia, and represent a token of good luck or fertility for the next year. Nowadays, they are available all year-round and form a popular souvenir item in Catalonia. During this creative painting workshop, we could choose to paint a “Caganer” from a wealth of little figures on display: Homer Simpson, Donald Trump, Angela Merkel, or the typical “Caganer” shepherd from the Pyrenees.
Get in touch • Email [email protected] • Call 0034 972 980 394 • Check out: caganer.com
Connect through Social Media • Join on Facebook • Follow on Twitter • Follow on YouTube
Where is “Caganer workshop”? (Carrer Francesc Macià, 11, 17257 Torroella de Montgrí on Google Maps or click on map)
For even more information, follow this link to my travel blog. 22
Where else to go #inCostaBrava?
Following in the footsteps of the above-mentioned, creative activities, there are a number of other activities that convey a similar spirit. If pottery is high on your agenda, you should really go and see the Terracotta / Pottery Museum in La Bisbal d’Empordà. In the same town, Artesana i Tribu offers wonderful silver jewelry both for immediate purchase, as well as upon commission: I’ve loved meeting local artist Sana, who runs the workshop there. If museums are what you like, why not visit the two rural museums Archaeological Museum Ullastret, as well as the Archaeological Museum Empúries: Both are steeped in history reaching back to such early civilizations as the Iber people, as well as the first Greek and Roman settlers in the area of modern-day Costa Brava. A very interesting history lesson indeed, especially as the Archaeological Museum Ullastret offers an exciting 3D recreation of its past! For the more active among you, why not consider going horse riding? Anna Wintle, at “Les Feixes” Horse Estate, speaks perfect English, Spanish as well as of course Catalan, being born to both English and Spanish / Catalan parents. She loves to take both beginners as well as experienced riders out and about sightseeing in the charming, surrounding landscape of “Les Feixes” Estate. Last but not least, Ocitania Segway Tours offer exciting Segway Tours exploring beautiful vantage spots overlooking Costa Brava all the way to the nearby sea. And for the #winelover among you, Bodega Mas Vida, run by charming winemaker Adriana Fernández, allows you to understand and explore Costa Brava’s claim to wine fame: A perfect trip into the organically farmed vineyards and olive grove of Bodega Mas Vida, is an experience I still recall as one of my favorite while travelling #inCostaBrava. If you want to learn / read more about some of the above-mentioned offers, check out this page on my travel blog here.
Get in touch with Terracotta Museum La Bisbal d’Empordà:
• Email [email protected] • Call 0034 972 642 067 1 • Check out: terracottamuseu.cat
Connect through Social Media • Join on Facebook • Follow on Twitter • Follow on YouTube
Address: Carrer del Sis D‘Octubre de 1869, 99, 17100 La Bisbal d‘Empordà 23
Get in touch with 2 Artesana i Tribu: • Email [email protected] • Call 0034 972 646 595 • Check out artesanaitribu.com
Connect through Social Media • Join on Facebook • Follow on Twitter • Follow on Instagram • Pin on Pinterest
Address: Passeig Marimon Asprer, 3, 17100 La Bisbal d‘Empordà
3 Get in touch with Archaeological Museum Ullastret • Email [email protected] • Call 0034 972 179 058 • Check out macullastret.cat
Address: Afores s/n, Puig de Sant Andreu, 17114 Ullastret
4 Get in touch with Archaeological Museum Empúries • Email [email protected] • Call 0034 972 770 208 • Check out macempuries.cat
Address: Carrer Puig i Cadafalch, s/n, 17130 L‘Escala 24
Get in touch with 5 Horse Riding Estate “Les Feixes”
• Email [email protected] • Call 0034 651 468 997 • Check out lesfeixes.cat
Connect through Social Media • Join on Instagram
Address: Carrer del Portal, s/n, 17118 Sant Sadurní de l‘Heura
Get in touch with Ocitania Segway Tours • Email [email protected] 6 • Call 0034 972 755 082 • Check out ocitania.cat
Connect through Social Media • Join on Facebook • Follow on Instagram • Follow on YouTube
Address: Carretera de Torroella de Montgrí a Parlavà, Km 0.5, 17257
Get in touch with Bodega Mas Vida 7 • Email [email protected] • Call 0034 659 548 512 • Check out bodegasmasvida.com
Connect through Social Media • Join on Facebook • Follow on Twitter • Follow on YouTube • Read more on TripAdvisor
Address: Afores, s/n, 17741 Cistella 25
7
Bodega Mas Vida
Archaeological Museum Empúries
4
Archaeological Museum Ullastret 6
3 Ocitania Segway Tours
Horse Riding Estate “Les Feixes” Terra Cotta Museum La 1 5 2 Bisbal d’Empordà Artesana i Tribu 26
Where to eat as a Creative Traveler?
Travelling #inCostaBrava, I have been fortunate enough to explore and experience not only the previously mentioned, creative travel activities, but also some of the area’s well-known restaurants, tapas bars, or simple local pubs & taverns. The most charming fact about them, besides providing excellent local cuisine, is that all of them are hand-picked in terms of a true guarantee of meeting “the locals” there. On numerous occasions, we have been delighted by the welcoming warmth of one of the waiters, bar owners, chefs, etc. talking to us about what makes Costa Brava cuisine such a special foodie feast for travelers to experience. Come and eat your way through these delicious, foodie hot spots with me!
Costa Brava cuisine : A delicious fusion of tasty, light & refreshing creations, such as this goat cheese & veggie starter …
Enjoying a typical meal at the (foodie) transition of Costa Brava to the Pyrenees, with a bit of local influence of both (seaside and mountains). Creative, and very delicious at the same time, as seen here at Restaurant Carles Antoner, in the small town of Lladó.
… all the way to enjoying typical, succulent dishes, such as “l’Arròs de Mar ” (Catalan rice with seafood). Both pictures are taken at restaurant “Es Portal”. More details are up next. 27
Restaurant “Sa Lola”
The seaside town of Blanes, in southern Costa Brava, will wow you with its so-called “window to Costa Brava”, a beautiful hilltop vantage point overlooking the coastline to the Mediterranean Sea, as well as the small town of Blanes. For tasting the seemingly perpetual sun & sea breeze, head over to this charming bar and restaurant, whose chefs have received numerous awards for delighting visitors with their quality cooking!
Get in touch • Call 0034 972 355 219 • Check out: salolagastronomic.com
Connect through Social Media • Join on Facebook • Follow on Instagram • Read more on TripAdvisor
Where is “Sa Lola”? (Passeig Pau Casals, 59, 17300 Blanes on Google Maps or click on map)
For even more information, follow this link to my travel blog. 28
Restaurant “Es Portal”
Combine your foodie experience at “Es Portal” with an opportunity to stay at their equally charming countryside hotel! Located on the road between Torroella de Montgrí and Pals, very close to the coastline #inCostaBrava, you will be delighted by the restaurant’s tasty local, seasonal dishes. Spending three hours at the lunch table (which, you will find, is pretty common here), we’ve hugged the chef before we’ve left and vowed to come back “for the love of food” eventually!
Get in touch • Email [email protected] • Call 0034 972 636 596 • Check out: esportalhotel.com
Connect through Social Media • Join on Facebook • Follow on Twitter • Follow on Instagram • Follow on YouTube
Where is “Es Portal”? (“Es Portal”, Carretera de Pals a Torroella de Montgrí, 7, 17256 Pals on Google Maps or click on map)
For even more information, follow this link to my travel blog. 29
Restaurant “La Cort”
Situated in the small town of Peratallada, Restaurant “La Cort” serves typical local Catalan (sea) food and will charm you with its medieval, historical flair. Ordering my nut & goat cheese salad, I could also feel the influence of nearby Southern France, which makes discovering this little gem of a place twice as delicious!
Get in touch • Call 0034 972 634 868 • Check out: restaurantlacort.com
Connect through Social Media • Join on Facebook • Follow on Twitter • Read more on TripAdvisor
Where is “La Cort”? (Plaça de les Voltes, 8, 17113 Peratallada, Girona on Google Maps or click on map)
For even more information, follow this link to my travel blog. 30
Restaurant “Divinum”
“Divinum” says it all: This place is truly divine in terms of the local food served! The chef likes to get creative, for instance serving us a refreshing lunchtime salad with local anchovies from nearby L’Escala. Do check out “Divinum” for a short, typical “Tapas” stop, or for a longer meal in the evening in the heart of La Bisbal d’Empordà, the Costa Brava’s pottery capital.
Get in touch • Email [email protected] • Call 0034 628 198 828 • Check out: divinumlabisbal.cat
Connect through Social Media • Join on Facebook • Follow on Twitter • Read more on TripAdvisor
Where is “Divinum”? (Avinguda de les Voltes, 19, 17100 La Bisbal d‘Empordà on Google Maps or click on map)
For even more information, follow this link to my travel blog. 31
Restaurant “La Cantonada”
This restaurant, located in the heart of the creative city of La Bisbal d’Empordà, will delight you both in terms of its use of local ceramics, as well as the quality of food served. Perfect for a quick stop along the way to the coast, or for a nice lunch break after you’ve visited the nearby shops and ateliers of Costa Brava’s pottery capital, “La Cantonada” also opens for dinner during the weekend.
Get in touch • Email [email protected] • Call 0034 972 643 413 • Check ou: lacantonada.cat
Connect through Social Media • Join on Facebook • Read more on TripAdvisor
Where is “La Cantonada”? (paste Carrer del Bisbe, 6, 17100 La Bisbal d‘Empordà on Google Maps or click on map)
For even more information, follow this link to my travel blog. 32
Restaurant “Vora Estany”
This restaurant is perhaps the nicest lakeside restaurant in the whole of Banyoles. I have always loved eating there, no matter whether for a quick tapa, a smooth Vermouth, or a full lunch with friends! Before or after, do consider going for a walk along the tree-lined lake border, utterly picturesque with a view of the nearby Pre-Pyrenees! “Vora Estany” literally means “Out by the Lake”, hence the menu with its locally grown fruit, vegetables, fish and other regional produce.
Get in touch • Email [email protected] • Call 0034 972 576 353 • Check out: voraestany.com
Connect through Social Media • Join on Facebook • Follow on Instagram • Read more on TripAdvisor
Where is “Vora Estany”? (Passeig Antoni Gaudí, 3, 17820 Banyoles, Girona on Google Maps or click on map)
For even more information, follow this link to my travel blog. 33
Restaurant “Carles Antoner”
I would never have found this tasty countryside restaurant, located at the only square of tiny Lladó, if it hadn’t been for my charming local host Adriana Fernandez, of Bodegas Mas Vida (see page 24 of this eBook for a description of her activity). She gladly offered to have me become “friends for the day” with the local chef, who made us a seafood rice dish to remember ! Stop at Restaurant Carles Antoner if you want to get the full flavors of what a culinary fusion between Costa Brava and the Pyrenees can taste like. It’ll truly be worth your while.
Get in touch • Email [email protected] • Call 0034 972 553 711 • Check out: restaurantcarlesantoner.com
Connect through Social Media • Join on Facebook • Follow on Instagram • Read more on TripAdvisor
Where is “Restaurant Carles Antoner”? (Plaça Major, 17745 Lladó on Google Maps or click on map)
For even more information, follow this link to my travel blog. 34
Where to stay as a Creative Traveler?
Costa Brava is full of utterly charming countryside escapes, many of which are family-run and thus by definition “a guarantee to meet the family”. Should you prefer to stay in a hotel, I can also offer you two great choices in both an urban as well as a seaside location. Let’s start with Mas Masaller, a typical Costa Brava country lodge run by Joan and Marta near the small town of La Bisbal d’Empordà. Close by, you will also find Casa Matilda, run by Leo, Matilda and Helena. Both of these charming, rural accommodation options will win your heart in no time: Think luxury countryside escape coupled with simplicity, authenticity, and care, and you’ll have a pretty apt description of what to expect in both places. Besides, there is the art deco Hotel Duran, whose interior dates from the turn of the 19th and 20th century. Conveniently located in the heart of the city of Figueres, immerse yourself in the home town of famous artist Salvador Dalí. Closer to the sea, you will find Hotel Can Miquel located in Cala Montgó, a beach by the charming fisherman’s town of L’Escala.
Luxury with a view: The cozy rooftop terrace at Casa Matilda, in the small town of Corçà, near La Bisbal d’Empordà. 35
Mas Masaller
Furnished with six different family-type rooms, Mas Masaller is perfect if you really want to get out and about into the countryside of Costa Brava! Their host family of five (father, mother and three daughters!) is the archetype of a hard-working, welcoming farming family running a cozy countryside cottage. Mas Masaller is about ten minutes’ drive from La Bisbal d’Empordà, the creative pottery capital of Costa Brava that equally wows you with its peaceful charm. Settle for Mas Masaller if you want to meet the warm-hearted locals of Costa Brava, and spend one or more nights in some of the most peaceful rural surroundings I have experienced in my whole life.
Get in touch • Email [email protected] • Call 0034 972 641 302 • Check out: masmasaller.com
Connect through Social Media • Join on Facebook • Follow on Instagram • Follow on Twitter • Read more on TripAdvisor
Where is “Mas Masaller”? (Barri Rabioses 5, 17116 Cruïlles, Girona on Google Maps or click on map)
For even more information, follow this link to my travel blog. 36
Casa Matilda
Casa Matilda is a wonderful, boutique-style country lodge with the touch of the loving hands of Leo and his partner Helena. Leo originally hails from Argentina and is one of the most welcoming, natural hosts I have ever experienced. He just loves to preside over perfection in his beautiful “Casa Matilda”: Gentle music is on in the breakfast room, and both my bedroom as well as the bathroom are perfectly furnished with just the right mix of plants, vintage furniture, decorative objects, and cozy blankets. Much too beautiful to stay here on your own: Do bring your loved one with you!!
Get in touch • Email [email protected] • Call 0034 972 630 361 • Check out: casamatilda.es
Connect through Social Media • Join on Facebook
Where is “Casa Matilda”? (Carrer Major, 31, 17121 Corçà on Google Maps or click on map)
For even more information, follow this link to my travel blog. 37
Hotel Can Miquel
Located in the fisherman’s town of L’Escala, I perfectly remember Hotel Can Miquel for two things: One, it is located in the town’s most beautiful, secluded beach cove, leaving you to wake up to the gentle lapping of waves against its shoreline. Two, the hotel itself offers 37 double rooms and a nice restaurant with different dinner options, where breakfast is also served. A good choice when wishing to be right by the sea #inCostaBrava!
Get in touch • Email [email protected] • Call 0034 972 641 302 • Check out: canmiquel.com
Connect through Social Media • Join on Facebook • Follow on Instagram • Follow on Twitter • Follow on Pinterest
Where is “Hotel Can Miquel”? (Platja de Montgó, 17130 L‘Escala on Google Maps or click on map)
For even more information, follow this link to my travel blog. 38
The hills & mountains of the Pyrenees
From gently undulating hills all the way to soaring mountain peaks: The Eastern rim of the Pyrenees, rising from Costa Brava’s Cap de Creus peninsula (mainland Spain’s easternmost point), is no less stunning than its seaside counterpart. As the road starts to climb about an hour’s drive from the sea, you will find most of Costa Brava’s beautiful hinterland covered in Mediterranean forests, vineyards, fields, and pastures, littered with countless little towns. These historic settlements each come with their own specific local area culture. Some, such as Ripoll, may well invite you to participate in their annual “Sardanas” dance festival, whereas others, such as Olot, delight in providing a hub for many local artists to draw inspiration from.
View of the city of Olot, at the foothills of the Pyrenees in north-eastern Catalonia, Spain.
What to do as a Creative Traveler? As a creative traveler, you will find several interesting opportunities to engage with the local artists #inPyrenees (use this hashtag in order to find out more about local events and attractions). Even in just a day, you may visit both a local glass artists’ studio, as well as a medieval writers’ workshop in Ripoll. Both activities provide you with a good grasp of what life, culture & traditions in the Pyrenees have been, and are, all about. 39
Calligraphy Workshop & Ethnographic Museum in Ripoll
When #inPyrenees, you must join a medieval writing workshop! Why? Because the surroun- ding landscape, as well as the charm of the historic old towns, will both entice and convince you to do so! I have been able to work right inside Ripoll’s ancient Scriptorium and create a nice little bookmark for myself, as well as a gift card for one of my dear friends. A very special souvenir, and memory of my time travelling in the Pyrenees indeed!
Get in touch • Email [email protected] • Call 0034 972 703 144 • Check out: museuderipoll.org
Connect through Social Media • Join on Facebook • Follow on Twitter
Where is “Calligraphy Workshop & Scriptorium Ripoll”? (Plaça de l‘Abat Oliba s/n 17500 Ripoll on Google Maps or click on map)
For even more information, follow this link to my travel blog. 40
Fine Glass Art Workshop with Jordi Traveria
To this day, I still think of Jordi Traveria, Ariadna Guasch, and the creative glass art workshop we shared. Thanks to them, I have created a perfect little souvenir glass platter, complete with the blue, green and brown colors of Costa Brava and the Pyrenees. They even hand-delivered my fine glass creation to Girona a few days later, and we since became friends by continuing to have an exchange on Social Media! I am sure to visit their glass workshop and studio again at some stage in the (near) future. And so should you on your next visit to the Pyrenees!
Get in touch • Email [email protected] • Call 0034 630 065 056 • Check out: jorditraveria.com
Connect through Social Media • Join on Facebook • Follow on Instagram
Where is “Jordi Traveria Fine Glass Art”? (La Quartera, Pla de Fluvià, 17178 El Mallol, La Vall d‘en Bas on Google Maps or click on map)
For even more information, follow this link to my travel blog. 41
Where to stay as a Creative Traveler?
Immersing yourself in the local area landscape of the charming Pyrenees hills and moun- tains, my recommendation for you is to naturally seek out countryside escapes. Next to litt- le villages and small towns, why not choose among hidden treasures located deep inside the forest? The following tip for you to explore this beautiful travel destination is from a personal visit of the Pyrenees in May 2017, a comparatively low travel season. Do check for availability as soon as you know your travel dates, as both prices and levels of occupancy may rise. And trust me: You certainly would not want to miss out on a view like that …!
Infinity pool & terrace at the country lodge “Masia El Puig”, near Olot in the Pyrenees. 42
Masia El Puig
“Masia El Puig”, which literally translates to “El Puig Country Estate”, is just that: A rural gem of a place, both a historic mansion deep in the woods near the area’s main town, Olot, as well as being furnished with the comfort of a building in the 21st century. There are seven luxury double rooms, as well as a spacious cottage to choose from. For breakfast, you can enjoy home-made produce from local farms, such as thick and creamy mountain yoghurt, delicious jams, ham, cheese, eggs, tomatoes, and a lot more. Looking at the infinity pool leading straight out from the terrace, a word of advice: It may be very hard to ever get any day trip or journey started from here, as the views, peace and comfort are just superb.
Get in touch • Email [email protected] • Call 0034 606 458 886 • Check out: masiaelpuig.com
Connect through Social Media • Join on Facebook • Follow on Instagram • Follow on Twitter • Read more on TripAdvisor
Where is “Masia El Puig”? (Castellar de la Muntanya, 17813 La Vall de Bianya on Google Maps or click on map)
For even more information, follow this link to my travel blog. 43
Further Resources
In addition to all the colorful accommodation, activities & foodie travel tips presented in this eBook, I trust you will find the following web links useful in planning your next creative escape around Costa Brava, Spain, and Europe:
Costa Brava Girona Pyrenees • Costa Brava Girona Tourist Board: costabrava.org
Barcelona Creative Travel • Barcelona Creative Tourism: barcelonacreativa.info • Barcelona Cooking: barcelonacooking.net • Devour Barcelona Food Tours: devourbarcelonafoodtours.com
More Creative Travel Options throughout Spain … • Creative Tourism Network: creativetourismnetwork.org • Ponle Cara Al Turismo: ponlecaraalturismo.com
… and Europe: • Creative Tourism Austria: kreativreisen.at/en • Kreativsaison Germany: kreativsaison.de/en • Creative Ardennes: ardennes-lux.lu/creativeardennes • Creative Paris: creativeparis.info/en • Loulé Criativo: proactivetur.pt/en • Experience Slovenia with locals: slocally.com • Kent Creative Coast: kentcreativecoast.co.uk • Creative Iceland: creativeiceland.is
Relational Travel Websites • Couchsurfing: couchsurfing.org • AirBnB: airbnb.com • Eat With A Local: EatWithALocal.com • Cookening: cookening.com
Creative Travel Blogs • Creativelena: creativelena.com • City Sea Country: cityseacountry.com • The Travel Tester: thetraveltester.com • Cultural Xplorer: culturalxplorer.com • Magia En El Camino: magiaenelcamino.com.ar • O Porto Encanta: oportoencanta.com