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X-Ray International Dive Magazine Issue 22

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X-Ray International Dive Magazine Issue 22 pearls of the mediterranean Calella Diving the Wild Coast of Spain Text by Harald Apelt PETER SUTTER Photos by Wolfgang Pölzer and Peter Sutter WOLFGANG PÖLZER 42 X-RAY MAG : 21 : 2008 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED pearls of the Calella mediterranean CALELLA DE PALAFRUGELL, COSTA BRAVA, SPAIN In its former years, Calella de the back country of Calella bunker with big apartment Palafrugell was a little fishing port, de Palafrugell. The inhabitants houses and all the trappings of The Costa Brava is called “The wild which led a hidden life far away of Calella are proud to be the mass tourism. coast”. And indeed the sea can turn from the big Spanish metropolis Calella of Palafrugell, because Let’s take a closer look at of Barcelona. It was the home 60 kilometres north of this little the smaller one, which has out to be quite rude sometimes up of Spanish fishermen who sold Costa Brava pearl, you will find developed more slowly as a here in the northern part of Spain their catch in the market halls another Calella—Calella de la tourist destination. Here, one will close to the French frontier. This part of Palafrugell, a small city in Costa, a city that is like a tourism look in vain for big apartment of Spain called Catalonia is one of the most frequented European tourism destinations. And it is unusual that in this part of the Mediterranean some little hidden pearls have kept their picturesque qualities. One of these pearls is Calella de Palafrugell. Let’s take a look at this nice place and its fantastic dive sites. ALL IMAGES THIS PAGE BY PETER SUTTER PREVIOUS PAGE: Beach life at Calella de Palafrugell, Costa ABOVE: Big sunfish patrols a wreck at Calella Brava, Spain. INSET: Soft corals of the reef COLUMN OF IMAGES: Scenes from the reef LEFT: Blenny peaks out of its shelter and the wrecks at Calella 43 X-RAY MAG : 21 : 2008 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED pearls of the Calella mediterranean bays separated from THIS PAGE: Samples of sealife in each other by rocks the colorful underwater realm of make up its frontline the waters around Calella—reef to the sea, and they fish, soft corals, tunicates, anemo- make a perfect nes and spotted flatfish frame for relaxing, swimming and diving at Costa Brava. In one of these bays, called Port Pellegri, the Poseidon Dive houses, huge hotels with hundreds of beds and the Center has It’s a rare mixture of typical tourism stood here good climate, nice back machinery for nearly 40 country with a lot of things that is often years now. to be discovered, and found in so The German an awesome seaside many other founder, Horst with deep blue-green destinations. Its Lindner, and water and more than close proximity his Russian ten absolutely perfect to the sea and wife, Tina, dive spots. Poseidon its historical connection creates the have created an international Calella owns a dive boat, atmosphere of Calella de Palafrugell. team that is ready to show you the Poseidon, with has space Although this little location is right on loveliest dive sites in the whole of the for 20 divers, who can the ocean, it has no port. Five little Mediterranean. board the vessel right on ALL IMAGES THIS PAGE BY PETER SUTTER the beach. The diving and can be reached within a few center is placed in one minutes. of the old stock rooms One of the most frequented and where, in former times, the preferred dive spots at Costa Brava Calella fishermen placed is not much more than 1000 meters their equipment, nets and away, directly in front of Port Pellegri boats during the winter Bay: the Outer Reef 1. It is formed months. That’s why it is not like a cone, starting at 6 meters of much more than 20 steps depth and falling down to 44 meters. from the dive center to The northern side of this reef is an reach the Poseidon to start explosion of colours and displays the the dive trip. Normally, best the Mediterranean Sea is able to two dive trips are planned offer. each day. The dive sites Colour changing gorgonias, are near Port Pellegri overhangs, and crevices, are the 44 X-RAY MAG : 21 : 2008 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED pearls of the Calella mediterranean home of nearly all kinds of marine life. This spot is a highlight for everyone, because at each depth, there are fantastic views, and even beginners won’t have a chance to loose their direction. Wherever you hang out at the reef, swimming upwards leads you automatically back to the buoy and the dive boat. Another spot you should visit PETER SUTTER while diving with Poseidon Calella Delicate floating jellyfish grace the seas around Calella. Be wary of their tendrills is the wreck of the Boreas. It’s nothing spectacular, but still Navy. In 1976, the Pellworm was Costa Brava winter storms, it still a nice WWII tugboat to view. retired from Navy duty and was offers quite a spectacle when Built by the Germans, it had a sold. one dives the engine room and colourful life. It is amazing that it The ship had several owners in the hold of the Boreas. It is laying did not find the same end as so the following years. The last one upside down on the sea bottom. many other German warships. being of questionable business. The propeller can be found at a It was built in 1938 in Konigsberg The ship—now called Boreas and depth 32 metres. as Pellworm and worked in the sailing under the Panamanian Besides the good diving, second world war as a supply flag—was boarded by Spanish Calella has some really nice ship for the German battleship, Navy patrols in 1986 and alley ways to be explored as Tirpitz. The Tirpitz was sunk on discovered to be transporting well as a good amount of November, 12, 1944, in Norway illegal drugs. The vessel was bars and restaurants. As in by Allied air raids. The supply ship confiscated at Costa Brava most Mediterranean regions, “Pellworm” survived the war and harbour Palamos and stayed Costa Brava has some months was later used as a mine seeker there for three years. Nobody during the year in which you and training ship for the German wanted to own this old veteran are better off avoiding the and take the costs of its coastline. These are from July nefarious affairs. Finally, the up to mid-September during the diving centers of Palamos school holidays and the main came to an agreement travel season when Calella de with the authorities to Palafrugell is overcrowded. The prepare the Boreas as crowds cause an uncomfortable dive wreck or artificial atmosphere that nobody really reef. It was finally plunged wants. to a depth of 600 meters, Aside from this time period, you outside of the port entry of won’t find many nicer places to Palamos. spend the holidays—especially Although the wreck has if a car is available. There are so been damaged more many nice places to discover in and more by the tough the back country. PETER SUTTER LEFT: Diver explores wall of climbing corals. WOLFGANG PÖLZER INSET: Brightly colored fish hide in the reef 45 X-RAY MAG : 21 : 2008 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED pearls of the Calella mediterranean Divers have easy access to the dive boat a few paces from the dive center on the beach in the masses an old Catalan village. The during the main old women still meet to season. So much exchange news at the well so that some while washing their laundry. Pals’ people are Historical restaurants offer asking themselves typical Catalan cuisine. whether or not There are so many things this change of to see and do all around character was the historical city wall, that really a big step one really is surprised that forward. something like Peratallada If you still exists. are interested in the Of course, you should counterpart of Pals, you take the opportunity to visit should visit Peratallada. It is the museum of Salvador just a 20 minute ride by car Dali in Figueres, and the from Calella. Here, you will discover the unadorned, historical atmosphere of ALL IMAGES THIS PAGE BY PETER SUTTER Anyone who is interested in historical places should visit Pals. This little village is situated around a little hill. Half a century ago, Pals was nearly dead. It this period by some traditional was a village with only a few old artisans such as painters, inhabitants and no attractions ceramicists and wrought-iron THIS PAGE: Scenes of sealife on the reefs except its history and no future. craftsmen. They renovated the around Calella—soft corals, gargonians, anem- Employment was only found old houses, closed the village ones, decorator crabs, spiny urchins. BOTTOM on the coastline in the tourism for any motorised traffic, and RIGHT: The picturesque coastline of Calella business. That’s why more and Pals was born a second time. more people, especially the Nowadays, Pals is the village that young ones, followed the money is frequented by thousands of and decided to leave their sleepy tourists who seek the atmosphere Large gaping groupers home towns. of medieval times. and delicate Christmas Pals was rediscovered in during Numerous tourist busses shuffle tree worms make their homes on the reef 46 X-RAY MAG : 21 : 2008 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED pearls of the Calella mediterranean PETER SUTTER Romantic evenings in Calella see soft light reflected off the waves along the seashore, which is dotted with a choice of restaurants and cafes INSET MACRO IMAGES THIS PAGE: Brightly colorednNudibranchs and spirals of nudi- branch eggs decorate the reef PETER SUTTER PETER SUTTER WOLFGANG PÖLZER capital of Catalonia, Calella de Palafrugell Barcelona, is just about a real pearl of the PETER SUTTER 100 kilometers away Mediterranean.
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