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CANADA Yukon Territory Motlnt Kennedy, North Ridge THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL CANADA Yukon Territory Motlnt Kennedy, North Ridge. A four-man group, David Seidman, Philip Koch, Todd Thompson and Joseph Faint, were landed by plane at 8000 feet in late June on the north fork of the Lowell Glacier at the foot of the north ridge of Mount Kennedy ( 13,905 feet). They climbed, mostly on ice, ten leads up the slope just right of the foot of the ridge to gain the crest, where it took them six hours to chop a platform for Camp I. The granite on the bottom part of the climb tended to be rotten. During the ascent it was more or less frozen in place, but on the descent they were worried by possible rockfall. They continued on the ridge off to the right of the crest through the first icefield for I6 leads to Camp II, where all four had to chop for a full day to make a platform. The granite in this mixed ice and rock section was excellent. The crux of the climb was at the top of the icefield just above Camp II. After traversing right, they climbed four leads of mixed difficult ice and rock of F6 to F8 and A2 to A3. Some four more leads of moderate ice brought them to the end of this 14-pitch section and-Camp III. These first 41 pitches were all fixed with 8000 feet of rope. On July 23 Seidman and Thompson set out on reconnaissance but continued on all the way to the summit. Above Camp III the rock changed to rotten diorite. For five rope- lengths they were on loose, slabby, crackless rock, probably the most dangerous section of the whole climb because they could not protect them- selves. To avoid the upper rock buttress they traversed right and com- pleted the climb to the summit up some ten leads of snow. Except for the first two and the last pitches, there was such hard ice on all rope-lengths that they had to cut steps. They placed about 150 rock and ice pitons. Mount Logan. The Arctic Institute of North America, Kluane Station, carried on a successful research season on Mount Logan with the establish- ment of laboratory and living quarters at 17,400 feet about midway on the Logan Plateau. During the last days of May and the first few of June, Institute pilot Phil Upton flew three research groups to the King Trench: an independent CRREL (Cold Regions Research and Engineering Lab) party of Charles Keeler, Bill Fleming and Al Timburi, two Institute surveyors, Gerry Holdsworth and Terry Hughes, and the final party of Joe LaBelle, King Seegar, Del Smith, and myself, who would remain the summer at altitude. Ascent was made by all parties via the west buttress, and a large camp was set on the plateau somewhat below the high pass at the top of the buttress on June 13. The CRREL party set an overwinter CLlMBS AND EXPEDITIONS 405 weather monitor in the pass, completed snow studies, and descended in late June. The surveyors ascended the northwest summit with a theodolite to tie in the major heights of Logan with a point of the 1913 survey above the Logan Glacier, and were flown out from the plateau camp on June 20. In the summering party King Seegar developed severe blood and eye complications and was evacuated by air from the plateau on June 15; the remaining three of us located and dug out the buried plywood hut begun the previous season by another party, and by the end of June had completed it as an underground electrified heated laboratory at 17,400 feet. The principle work of the station was a continuation of the High Mountain Environmental Project directed by Drs. Charles Houston and Charles Bryon, studying the effects of altitude on human physiology. Phil Upton’s excellent piloting permitted direct flying between Kluane and the plateau settlement for doctors, subjects, and technicians involved. The station also maintained a weather facility through most of June and July, reporting three-hourly; and Joe LaBelle faithfully carried on snow and ice studies, including daily temperature profiles. Rock samples were collected from most outcrops throughout the plateau. Joe, Del, and I closed the station in early August, marked it, and took a leisurely and enjoyable descent to the King Trench on skiis provided. We flew to Kluane on August 7. The following summits of Logan were reached: Prospectors (head of west buttress) on June 30 by LaBelle, Underwood; Northwest on June 17 by Holdsworth, Hughes, on July 1 by LaBelle, Smith and July 7 by Underwood; Northeast on July 22 by LaBelle, Smith, Underwood; West on July 26 by LaBelle, Smith, Underwood; Main on July 27 by LaBelle, Smith, Underwood; East on July 27 by Smith, Under- wood; Ice Dome (east of Prospectors) on July 31 by Underwood; Snow Dome (west of Prospectors) on August 1 by LaBelle, Smith, Underwood; Sonorous (northwest corner of plateau) on August 4 by LaBeIle, Smith, Underwood. JAMES C. UNDERWOOD, Arctic Institute of North America King Peak Reconnaissance. The Japanese Akira Aida and Hisao Nakadai represented the Renrei Alpine Club of Tokyo and made a reconnaissance of the south face of King Peak, which will be attempted by a large group in 1970. The two climbers reached a height of 11,300 feet on June 9 on one of the ribs which form part of the south face. MONTY ALFORD Steele and Walsh. A third Japanese party in the Yukon consisted of Masakatsu Masuda, Tetsu Nakanishi, Tohuru Sakamoto, Takuya Nakazono, 406 THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL Shunichi Sakanishi, Masao Nakamura and Tatsuo Inoue, of the Alpine Club of Kobe University. They ascended Steele via the southeast ridge and Walsh by way of its northwest ridge. MONTY ALFORD North West Territories Logan Momtains, During July and August of 1967, Lew Surdam and I climbed in the previously unvisited northwestern sector of the Logan Mountains. We flew to the area by helicopter and established our first camp in a spacious boulder cave in a broad cirque below the most northerly alpine peaks of the range. During the first days of reconnoitering we climbed two easy summits, “Shiva Peak” and “Consolation Peak.” Our first major ascent was “Mount Oberon,” highest of the nearby peaks. A hidden couloir through the lower cliffs of red shale led to a tiny glacier high on the south face. We now followed the southeast ridge, alternately granite and shale, then diagonaled across slabs covered with heavy, wet snow to a high shoulder from which the summit was easily attained. We descended couloirs to the west and then traversed the long, narrow, frequently corniced ridge to “Mount Titania.” “Blue Gateway Peak” was climbed by its northwest face and ridge, difficult iced chimneys of the last few hundred feet presenting the main obstacles. Our last climb from this camp was the “Bastion of Darkness.” We crossed the low pass between “Shiva Peak” and “Blue Gateway Peak’ and followed winding third-class shelves to near the top of a semi-detached southwestern buttress. After some intricate maneuvers, the main mass of the peak was gained, whence several enjoyable pitches of medium fifth-class rock along the south ridge brought us to the summit. We then backpacked south, over a high pass, and placed camp near a small lake on the north margin of a wide glacier tongue which sweeps below the precipitous north walls of the “Stone Flower,” a spectacular ridge of granite peaks and towers. “Pika Tower.” the lowest and westernmost of these, was climbed by a moderate rock route on its south face. After a week and a half of stormy weather, we climbed “Dawn Mist Mountain,” the highest peak of the “Stone Flower.” Moderate climbing on the south ridge, now plastered with fresh snow, led to the heavily corniced, knife-edged summit ridge, which we followed eastward, Past a tricky rock notch, to the highest point. On a rare, cloudless day, we climbed “Morning Star Spire.” We followed a steep, deeply incised southwest snow couloir to the beautiful high co1 west of our objective. Badly decomposed granite above the co1 gave way to firm rock above, providing several pitches of pleasant climbing. CLIMBS AND EXPEDlTIONS 407 $j_ .‘.....,, 408 THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL After rappelling back to the col, there remained time to climb the two summits to the west, “Dolphin Tower” and “Torsion Tower,” both of which were easier than anticipated. We moved camp east, over a low glacial pass and down to the basin of the “Phantom Lakes.” Again, we were beset by bad weather. When it cleared, we traversed the ridge between “Ptarmigan Peak” and “Ouzel Peak.” On the following day we did a long ice climb on “Mastiff Peak” via the eastern icefall on its north face and the northeast ridge. We descended the west ridge over two smaller sedimentary peaks, “Juncture Point” and “Appoggiatura Peak.” Our final ascent was a delightful rock climb in the cracks and chimneys on the southwest face of “Tempest Tower.” WILLIAM BUCKINGHAM Logan Mountains. Ted Maden, Nona Okun and I landed at the upper end of Lonely Lake in Hole-in-the-Wall valley on July 16 and set up Base Camp about half a mile further west by a river. Two days later we all climbed the twin “Reconnaissance Peaks” lying directly north of the small lake between Lonely and Beaver lakes. Next day Ted and I climbed the First Guardsman. To reach the co1 between the First and Second Guardsman we traversed round the east ridge and south face, from where two steep rock pitches (F7, Al) led to the summit.
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