THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL

CANADA Yukon Territory Motlnt Kennedy, North Ridge. A four-man group, David Seidman, Philip Koch, Todd Thompson and Joseph Faint, were landed by plane at 8000 feet in late June on the north fork of the Lowell Glacier at the foot of the north ridge of Mount Kennedy ( 13,905 feet). They climbed, mostly on ice, ten leads up the slope just right of the foot of the ridge to gain the crest, where it took them six hours to chop a platform for Camp I. The granite on the bottom part of the climb tended to be rotten. During the ascent it was more or less frozen in place, but on the descent they were worried by possible rockfall. They continued on the ridge off to the right of the crest through the first icefield for I6 leads to Camp II, where all four had to chop for a full day to make a platform. The granite in this mixed ice and rock section was excellent. The crux of the climb was at the top of the icefield just above Camp II. After traversing right, they climbed four leads of mixed difficult ice and rock of F6 to F8 and A2 to A3. Some four more leads of moderate ice brought them to the end of this 14-pitch section and-Camp III. These first 41 pitches were all fixed with 8000 feet of rope. On July 23 Seidman and Thompson set out on reconnaissance but continued on all the way to the summit. Above Camp III the rock changed to rotten diorite. For five rope- lengths they were on loose, slabby, crackless rock, probably the most dangerous section of the whole climb because they could not protect them- selves. To avoid the upper rock buttress they traversed right and com- pleted the climb to the summit up some ten leads of snow. Except for the first two and the last pitches, there was such hard ice on all rope-lengths that they had to cut steps. They placed about 150 rock and ice pitons. Mount Logan. The Arctic Institute of North America, Kluane Station, carried on a successful research season on Mount Logan with the establish- ment of laboratory and living quarters at 17,400 feet about midway on the Logan Plateau. During the last days of May and the first few of June, Institute pilot Phil Upton flew three research groups to the King Trench: an independent CRREL (Cold Regions Research and Engineering Lab) party of Charles Keeler, Bill Fleming and Al Timburi, two Institute surveyors, Gerry Holdsworth and Terry Hughes, and the final party of Joe LaBelle, King Seegar, Del Smith, and myself, who would remain the summer at altitude. Ascent was made by all parties via the west buttress, and a large camp was set on the plateau somewhat below the high pass at the top of the buttress on June 13. The CRREL party set an overwinter CLlMBS AND EXPEDITIONS 405 weather monitor in the pass, completed snow studies, and descended in late June. The surveyors ascended the northwest summit with a theodolite to tie in the major heights of Logan with a point of the 1913 survey above the Logan Glacier, and were flown out from the plateau camp on June 20. In the summering party King Seegar developed severe blood and eye complications and was evacuated by air from the plateau on June 15; the remaining three of us located and dug out the buried plywood hut begun the previous season by another party, and by the end of June had completed it as an underground electrified heated laboratory at 17,400 feet. The principle work of the station was a continuation of the High Mountain Environmental Project directed by Drs. Charles Houston and Charles Bryon, studying the effects of altitude on human physiology. Phil Upton’s excellent piloting permitted direct flying between Kluane and the plateau settlement for doctors, subjects, and technicians involved. The station also maintained a weather facility through most of June and July, reporting three-hourly; and Joe LaBelle faithfully carried on snow and ice studies, including daily temperature profiles. Rock samples were collected from most outcrops throughout the plateau. Joe, Del, and I closed the station in early August, marked it, and took a leisurely and enjoyable descent to the King Trench on skiis provided. We flew to Kluane on August 7. The following summits of Logan were reached: Prospectors (head of west buttress) on June 30 by LaBelle, Underwood; Northwest on June 17 by Holdsworth, Hughes, on July 1 by LaBelle, Smith and July 7 by Underwood; Northeast on July 22 by LaBelle, Smith, Underwood; West on July 26 by LaBelle, Smith, Underwood; Main on July 27 by LaBelle, Smith, Underwood; East on July 27 by Smith, Under- wood; Ice Dome (east of Prospectors) on July 31 by Underwood; (west of Prospectors) on August 1 by LaBelle, Smith, Underwood; Sonorous (northwest corner of plateau) on August 4 by LaBeIle, Smith, Underwood. JAMES C. UNDERWOOD, Arctic Institute of North America King Peak Reconnaissance. The Japanese Akira Aida and Hisao Nakadai represented the Renrei Alpine Club of Tokyo and made a reconnaissance of the south face of King Peak, which will be attempted by a large group in 1970. The two climbers reached a height of 11,300 feet on June 9 on one of the ribs which form part of the south face. MONTY ALFORD

Steele and Walsh. A third Japanese party in the Yukon consisted of Masakatsu Masuda, Tetsu Nakanishi, Tohuru Sakamoto, Takuya Nakazono, 406 THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL

Shunichi Sakanishi, Masao Nakamura and Tatsuo Inoue, of the Alpine Club of Kobe University. They ascended Steele via the southeast ridge and Walsh by way of its northwest ridge. MONTY ALFORD

North West Territories Logan Momtains, During July and August of 1967, Lew Surdam and I climbed in the previously unvisited northwestern sector of the Logan Mountains. We flew to the area by helicopter and established our first camp in a spacious boulder cave in a broad cirque below the most northerly alpine peaks of the range. During the first days of reconnoitering we climbed two easy summits, “Shiva Peak” and “Consolation Peak.” Our first major ascent was “Mount Oberon,” highest of the nearby peaks. A hidden couloir through the lower cliffs of red shale led to a tiny glacier high on the south face. We now followed the southeast ridge, alternately granite and shale, then diagonaled across slabs covered with heavy, wet snow to a high shoulder from which the summit was easily attained. We descended couloirs to the west and then traversed the long, narrow, frequently corniced ridge to “Mount Titania.” “Blue Gateway Peak” was climbed by its northwest face and ridge, difficult iced chimneys of the last few hundred feet presenting the main obstacles. Our last climb from this camp was the “Bastion of Darkness.” We crossed the low pass between “Shiva Peak” and “Blue Gateway Peak’ and followed winding third-class shelves to near the top of a semi-detached southwestern buttress. After some intricate maneuvers, the main mass of the peak was gained, whence several enjoyable pitches of medium fifth-class rock along the south ridge brought us to the summit. We then backpacked south, over a high pass, and placed camp near a small lake on the north margin of a wide glacier tongue which sweeps below the precipitous north walls of the “Stone Flower,” a spectacular ridge of granite peaks and towers. “Pika Tower.” the lowest and westernmost of these, was climbed by a moderate rock route on its south face. After a week and a half of stormy weather, we climbed “Dawn Mist Mountain,” the highest peak of the “Stone Flower.” Moderate climbing on the south ridge, now plastered with fresh snow, led to the heavily corniced, knife-edged summit ridge, which we followed eastward, Past a tricky rock notch, to the highest point. On a rare, cloudless day, we climbed “Morning Star Spire.” We followed a steep, deeply incised southwest snow couloir to the beautiful high co1 west of our objective. Badly decomposed granite above the co1 gave way to firm rock above, providing several pitches of pleasant climbing. CLIMBS AND EXPEDlTIONS 407

$j_ .‘.....,, 408 THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL

After rappelling back to the col, there remained time to climb the two summits to the west, “Dolphin Tower” and “Torsion Tower,” both of which were easier than anticipated. We moved camp east, over a low glacial pass and down to the basin of the “Phantom Lakes.” Again, we were beset by bad weather. When it cleared, we traversed the ridge between “Ptarmigan Peak” and “Ouzel Peak.” On the following day we did a long ice climb on “Mastiff Peak” via the eastern icefall on its north face and the northeast ridge. We descended the west ridge over two smaller sedimentary peaks, “Juncture Point” and “Appoggiatura Peak.” Our final ascent was a delightful rock climb in the cracks and chimneys on the southwest face of “Tempest Tower.” WILLIAM BUCKINGHAM

Logan Mountains. Ted Maden, Nona Okun and I landed at the upper end of Lonely Lake in Hole-in-the-Wall valley on July 16 and set up Base Camp about half a mile further west by a river. Two days later we all climbed the twin “Reconnaissance Peaks” lying directly north of the small lake between Lonely and Beaver lakes. Next day Ted and I climbed the First Guardsman. To reach the co1 between the First and Second Guardsman we traversed round the east ridge and south face, from where two steep rock pitches (F7, Al) led to the summit. We now moved to the Nightwind area, and on July 22 climbed “Sunset Peak,” conspicu- ously overlooking Nightwind Creek and lying immediately south of 24. (All numbers and names without quotation marks refer to William J. Buckingham’s map published A.A.]., 1966.) “Nightwind Peak” lies, on the map, halfway between 21 and 22 and is the highest point overlooking the southern Nightwind Lake (“Dawnwind Lake”). Ted and I climbed this point and Peak 22 by their southwest ridges on July 24, and “Promontory Peak” (23) by its east ridge on July 27. From a campsite high in the valley on its north side, on July 30 Ted and I made the second ascent of Mount Savage by a new route, the east ridge. Our next excursion was to the Thunder Dome massif, and on August 6 we all climbed peaks 15 and 14 on their north sides. The most feasible ascent of Thunder Dome from the Lonely Lake side appears to be by the “Ice Chimney” route climbed by Ted and me on August 7. From the foot of the southwest face go left to a small snow col, passing beneath a large chimney-gap. The several-hundred-feet-high, rock-walled, hard-ice-filled, north-facing chimney is then only too obvious. Descend by climbing and rappelling down the chimney-gap. On the, north side of Thunder Dome there is a system of Yosemite-like faces and slabs reaching down to Hole-in-the-Wall Lake, CLIMBS AND EXPEDITIONS 409 perhaps over 2500 feet high, through which slashes ‘The Ramp” from bottom left to upper right, merging onto a wall at a corner a few hundred feet below the summit plateau. On August 9, Ted and I climbed “The Ramp” (NCCS IV, F6) and bivouacked on the summit plateau of Thunder Dome. Next day we traversed over the top of Thunder Dome, down the chimney-gap, and climbed ‘Storm Point” (17) and “Symmetry Spire” ( 16), both on their southeast sides. Back at Lonely Lake, Ted and I climbed the east ridge of the First Guardsman on August 13. This was a rock dimb of about ten pitches, NCCS IV, F8, with the final three pitches as follows: a steep slab with a start above an overhang reached by sly rope moves from knifeblades, a short vicious overhanging jam-crack, and a magnificent 150-foot flake and crack pitch up the final vertical granite wall. On August 15, Ted and Nona climbed “Lonely Spur,” the peak overlooking Lonely Lake and connected by a ridge to Lonely Peak, and next day we were flown out to Watson Lake. These climbs were all first ascents except where noted. PETER ROWAT, Alpine Climbing Group Logan Molmtains. Geoff Spedding and I spent five weeks of June and July climbing in the Ragged Range of the Logan Mountains, followed by two weeks on the South Nahanni and Liard rivers, which we descended to Fort Simpson. We flew in by jet helicopter from Cantung Mine, leaving a rubber raft and food cached at the foot of the Cirque of the Unclimbables, another cache at the lakes on the northwest side of Sir James McBrien and ourselves at Gentian Lake some ten miles to the northwest. From Gentian Lake and camps in the adjacent valleys, we climbed Blue Gateway Peak2 by southwest ridge and down north ridge; Bastion of Darkness2 by south ridge; east peak1 of Ratchet Ridge by south face and east ridge; Galleon Peak1 by east ridge; Morning Star Spire2 by south-face couloir and southeast ridge; and Sundial* by south crescent ridge. We then moved to the valley northwest of Mount Sir James McBrien where we climbed Sir James McBrien by west ridge to Wechsler’s route and down northwest spur; Parrot Beak Peak2 by Buckingham’s route; Mount Sir Rodney Nobson’, the small peak immediately west-northwest of Sir James McBrien; and the easy granite peak’ west of Sir James McBrien and north of Higher Polymer. We then crossed Cassiope Pass to our last cache and then continued to Fort Simpson by rubber raft with one long portage from Glacier Lake to the Nahanni. ARCHIBALD SIMPSON, Calgary Mowztain Cltcb

1. First ascent. 2. Second ~scem. THE AMERlCAN ALPINE ]OURNAL

Keele Peak, Hess Momtains. This mountain is located on the Yukon- North West Territories border. George Denton and I ascended Keele by a rib in its west face on July 2. MONTY ALFORD

Canadian -Rockies Momzt Hooker, Northeast Face. Photographs from early expeditions along the Whirlpool River indicated not only the splendor of the Scott Glacier and Hooker Icefield but the elegance of the ice-clad northern and eastern faces of majestic Mount Hooker. Although the mountain scarcely rivals Robson in magnitude, the buttress formed by the convergence of these two faces features ice cliffs and a high-angle ice sheet resembling the Kain face. Kain, in fact, was with Thorington in 1924 when he saw Hooker’s “northern cliffs surmounted by a twisted, corniced a&e that makes direct ascent virtually impossible. An ice bulge at the mountain’s Eastern end swoops down and seems to overhang. And so we chose the Western co1 . . .” The pictures and the build-up cast their strange charm. As a rainy August week temporarily cleared, John Rupley and I hiked along the Whirlpool River and up the ice labyrinth of the Scott Glacier, much as our predecessors had done. Fortunately, connecting ribs and tunnels through ice frameworks enabled us to find a route with a minimum of step cutting. At 8800 feet we set up our tent as the chill of evening shadow set in, 2000 vertical feet below Hooker’s pointed white summit. Everything looked the same as the pictures of forty years ago-those over- hanging ice bulges, the corniced a&e, the steep ice sheet, the stratified rocks on the flanks now flecked with fresh powder. How steep was the ice sheet? Would there be blue ice close beneath the lustreless surface? Would the fresh powder be coalesced with the older surface? Would the morning sun loosen dangerous surface avalanches? An unusually cold night promised the best conditions possible under the circumstances, and daybreak found us bursting with enthusiasm. A slightly late start and a peculiar drifting dark cloud did not erode confidence, though perhaps they should have. In an hour we were in the morning sun, crampons biting into a relentless 50” slope. We belayed, each lead getting closer to those soaring white bulges. Yes, they overhung-cluite a bit, in fact. We veered to the north to avoid them. The angle decreased 5” and the top-snow decreased to a half-foot. It was time for tense belays. Spikes still bit well into the crisp powder-and-ice combination, though solid ice-axe security was a thing of the past. And so was the good weather. The tight way the first ice screw went in gave me a feeling of complete euphoria. CLIMBS AND EXPEDITIONS 411 And it took muscle to twist them out-between belays and at the belay points. NOW we were higher than the first overhanging bulge. The angle increased 5” to 8”, but our feet remained very cold-a good sign, for we knew that this special chill would keep those lovely screws amply tight. Ordinarily, a jet-sounding surface avalanche just a rope-length to the side would be more than unnerving. Three of these came close by, but faith in the protection of the great bulges dulled their imminent menace. I cut half a lead, twisted in a few extra ice screws and cut over a bulge that put us on easier slopes at the margin of the north sheet and above the highest point of the final bulge. darkened to a blur and in ten minutes the wind whipped us with force and the sting of snow. At the next belay we discovered that an ice axe would hold better than a screw, and from then on we were out of trouble, heading for that beautiful twisting cornice with the biting blast hitting the right side of our faces. Once on the summit, the curtains rapidly dosed in. There was no time for a second look, as we hurried toward the southeast ridge. Loose rock and electricity in the air proved more than annoying but caused no delays. In view of the oncoming fury, we broke camp and hurried to the level of the gravel bars and spruce trees. Neither of us could recall such a violent and drenching rain, all night long; safe under a tight tarp, we mused on how close the timing had been that day, how close we had come to not climbing that classic route of white elegance on Mount Hooker. FRED BECKJZY

Boom Mountain, North Face. Joe Farrand and I started above the east end of Boom Lake, on easy quartzite just left of a deep gully. After a few hundred feet we took to the gully bed, until it steepened to a wet over- hanging corner. A long traverse right took us past this and we then angled left towards an apparent weakness higher up. We were now at the top of the quartzite band, and I led one delicate pitch on rather shaky sandstone. Joe’s next lead was our first limestone pitch-a vertical wall with two small overhangs which required aid (in a severe thunder-and-hail storm). One easy pitch took us to a large ledge below an overhanging wall. We walked left looking for a weakness, and I had to lead a very delicate move on loose rock. At least the weather had dried up. 200 feet of easier climbing brought us to the summit plateau. NCCS III F7 A2. DICK LOFTHOUSE

Mount Eisenhower, Southwest face. When the Calgary Mountain Club erected a bivouac hunt on Mount Eisenhower in 1967 I predicted that the 412 THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL southwest face would see a lot more climbing. The following new routes were put up in 1968: (a) Bass Buttress (Brian Greenwood and Joe Farrand), the wall directly above the hut, just to the right of the large gully. F5. (b) To the right of Bass Buttress there are several small breaks in the cliff, and then a solid wall. To the right of this is a chimney with a cairn below, marking the start of a route climbed by Peter Jackson and Ray Hogan. (c) Gordon Cracker and Heinz Gude intended climbing the ridge which marks the left skyline when looking at the mountain. Actually they climbed the next buttress to the north of this ridge. It gave good, easy climbing on sound rock. DICK LOFTHOUSE

“Mount Perren.” Nothing like admitting to error, even if it is to your own benefit. With the happy admission that the 1966 edition of the Climb&s G&de to the Rocky Mountains of has a slight flaw*, known only to the inept clod who perpetrated it, I persuaded Andy Kauffman to accompany Morgan Broman, my son Lowell and me up the Siffleur valley to the highest unclimbed summit of the . We were only one day to the crossing of the Siffleur upstream from its junction with the Porcupine and then had an easy half day from there to our camp beside a tributary we called “Laughing Bear Creek.” The next day we left camp early enough to enjoy the sunshine when we got into it 2000 feet higher. The climb was uneventful, requiring one strenuous lead up a steep frozen snow slope and somewhat farther along, a slippery squeeze up a verglas-covered scree-filled slot. We named our summit (10,818 feet) after Walter Perren, the late chief guide of the National Park Service. WILLIAM LOWELL PUTNAM

Mount Temple, First Wiltter Ascent, On January 3, 1969, Dave Haley and I climbed . From camp in Paradise valley below Sentinel Pass, two hours of wallowing in waist-deep snow took US to the pass. From there we followed the wind-blown southwest ridge instead of the normal route, which was too steep for snowshoes. A short ice couloir presented the only difficulty. JAMES JONES, Cadian Alphe Club

‘On page 168 ir states that Pwk 10,818 was climbed in 1925 by W. 0. Field. J. Hubbard and G. D. McCoy. Actually the peak they climbed and which they idenrificd as Peak 5W lies two miles to the south and rises to 10,05O,f1~-~. CLIMBS AND EXPEDITlONS 413

Cam&an Momtain Historical Societies, Historical Societies have recently been formed in Banff and Jasper for the purpose of preserving documents and other items relating to these areas of the Canadian moun- tains. The society in Banff has quarters in the Public Library, where the Archives of the Canadian Rockies are maintained. Rooms have been named for Carl Rungius and Belmore Browne, in which their paintings have been placed. Much of the work is in charge of Mrs. Peter Whyte, Box 370, Banff, . The Jasper-Yellowhead Historical Society has similar aims, its secretary being Mrs. Toni Klettl, Box 535, Jasper, Alberta. Both organizations will welcome donations of appropriate material as well as financial contributions. J. MONROE THORINGTON, M.D. Interior Ranges Momt Sir Sandford, East Ridge, Selkhks. On our IS-day trip we made the first ascent of the east ridge of Sir Sandford and what is believed to be the second crossing of Austerity Glacier, by which Palmer climbed Austerity in 1911. We followed palmer’s route toward Austerity but were forced to limit our objective to Iron Man due to extremely icy conditions. The ascent of Sir Sandford began from the Great Cairn Cabin. Chuck Loucks, Art Fitch and I as the summit party and Jim Ingham and Earlyn Dean in support packed to a high and windy camp at 10,000 feet. On July 10 at 6:30 A.M. we left camp, crossed over the Footstool to the bergschrund, which we crossed on the left. We climbed the corniced ridge on firm snow to the first rock band. The first rock pitch led straight up the gully left of the snow ridge. The third pitch continued up a 70” gully of mixed ice, snow and rock and required four pitons and nut wedges for protection. Unlike most of the Selkirks, the rock is an unstable grey, coarse, grained conglomerate. This pitch took well over an hour and was severe climbing in crampons. Another 50-foot-pitch up the gully ended with the first solid belay around a large block of rock. We continued up 20 feet to a 20-foot traverse to the left to arrive at a sharp ridge which we ascended d cheval to an uncomfortable notch in the ridge. This required four pitons and one or two slings. The second and steeper snow ridge was double-corniced and 450 feet long. We climbed continuously with the protection of pickets or knots placed in protruding rocks. The last difficult rock pitch maintained our interest with a 30-foot hand-jam followed by a frictton slope, where the leader carved handholds with his fingers. The remaining 75 feet to the summit ridge were easy. Although corniced with mixed rock and snow, the 414 THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL summit ridge was comparatively easy, and the summit was attained at eight P.M. We descended the standard route, bivouacking at the Hourglass. THEODORE H. CHURCH

Gog, No&em Selkirks. On July 26, Frank Zahan and I made a new route on Gog, starting 30 feet left of the Gog-Magog co1 on the Friendship co1 side of the formation. We worked up and right to the base of a . 25-foot vertical jam chimney. We continued along the ridge south to the summit. A 135-foot rappel brought us back to the base of the climb. F5, 11 pitons. REED W. MARKLJJY, Appalachian Momtain Club

Crescent Sod Faces, Bugaboo S@es. The first climb done on the 1968 Calgary Mountain Club camp was the south face of one of the Crescent Towers, the “Donkey’s Ears” face visible from Boulder Camp, and it was climbed by Brian Greenwood, Ron Thomson, Urs Kallen, Oyvind Berle and me. Our route followed the corner system leading up between the two sum’mits; it was about F6, taking 4 hours or so for the 500 feet. We found an old rappel sling about 200 feet up, but as far as we know the face had not been climbed before. A day or two later Brian Greenwood and I made a much harder route on the south face of Crescent Spire. The face is split by two vast corners running from bottom to top; we chose the left-hand one, being straighter and more direct. We followed the corner most of the way, with occasional detours to the left in search of easier going. Halfway up the face, we were about 20 feet left of the corner when our line of weakness ran out. A short pendulum took us back into the corner, which required aid to lead up past an overhang. A little higher we traversed out across the right wall on pitons, and finished the climb up steep but easier slabs. NCCS IV, F8, A2. The third new route was the right hand corner on the same face, which I climbed with Joy Heron. This was extremely fine climbing on good granite, mostly free, with several short artificial sections. We were able to find a way around each of the large overhangs, and eventually reached the summit ridge just before a long and violent thunderstorm. NCCS II, F6, A2. During the same week last July Brian Greenwood and Oyvind Berle did the first one-day ascent of the east face of Bugaboo, arriving back at camp late in the evening. I believe this was the fifth ascent of the face and the first by a non-American party. DxxL.OmOUSE CLIMBS AND EXPEDl?lYONS 415

First Ascents in the Soslthem Monusbees. The main difficulties in the Monashee Mountains are usually found below 5000 feet in the deep bushy river valleys. To overcome this problem, Barbara Lilley, Jess Logan, mv wife Marcia and I hired a helicopter at Revelstoke to take us to a camp at the head of Boume Creek at the northern end of the Shushwap group. From there we climbed P 9300 and Cat Peak (9600 feet) to the east and southeast respectively of the large glacier draining into Bourne Creek. Cat Peak involved steep snow and class-3 rock. We then moved south over a glaciated pass to a lake just west of the crest where a barrel of food had been placed during the helicopter lift. From this camp on successive days we made the long walk to the summit of Frenchman’s Cap, then a 9600-foot snow climb nearby camp, and to P 9100+ just west of French- man’s Cap, a nice class-3 rock climb. On a half-day that ended with a two-hour thunderstorm, we moved camp south again over another pass. After a day of fog and drizzle, we moved south once more, taking time out at the pass to make first ascents of two easy peaks of about 9400 and 9100 feet on either side of the pass. A new camp was made on a grassy ledge near the pass between the head of the Jordan River and Bews Creek. It would not have been difficult to reach the one remaining 9000-foot peak a mile to the north, but the next two days were rainy. We started down the Jordan valley, where in almost continuous rain for three days we en- countered the worst traveling conditions that any of us had ever experi- enced. There are still several worthwhile summits in the area. TWO peaks of about 8600 feet just south of the Jordan-Bews co1 look rather difficult. P 9457, west of Hat Peak and four miles south of Frenchman’s Cap has a 1500-foot north face that is almost vertical. Access by helicopter is recommended! GEORGE WALLERSTFSN

Canadian Coast Range Mount Raleigh, Gilbert Region. Icewall Lake, a small tarn lying south of the Southgate River, provided Dallas Kloke, Harry Hibler, Bill Eubank, his 13 year old son Chris, and me an excellent approach to the surrounding peaks with only a minimum of exposure to the bush. After flying into the lake on August 1, we spent the next fifteen days making first ascents of the peaks lying east and south of the lake, unless otherwise noted, under generally fair weather. Base Camp was set up on Filer Glacier from which the entire group on August 3 climbed Mount Filer (8900 feet) by a gully splitting the southwest face. Bloke and Hibler next climbed the 416 THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL ridge forming the eastern border of the southeast arm of Filer Glacier on August 4 and easily ascended “South (7800 feet) and North (7700 feet) Thunderbird Peaks.” They then advanced farther along the ridge up snow and rock on the south side to the top of “Skagit Peak’ (7750 feet). While the same pair on August 5 made a second ascent of P 8650 at the southern end of the ridge, Bill Eubank and I plodded up “Squaw Peak” (8400 feet) located directly above Base Camp by way of a steep snow couloir leading to the gentle east summit ridge. On August 7, Kloke, both Eubanks and I set out from Base Camp and climbed the “Northeast Chieftain” (9100 feet), a huge granite spire. We discovered a route up the sheer east face by ascending the east rib to the base of the cliff wherea difficult chimney led to..the easy summit ridge. August 8 proved to be another busy day. We ascended the ridge to the north of Base Camp, crossed it west of Mount Filer and descended into a huge snow basin. After contouring across it, by snow slopes on the north we first climbed “Castellani Peak” (8300 feet) at the northeast end of the basin. Heading eastward on a broad snow-covered ridge, we next ascended Mount Tavistock (8700 feet) from the north through crevasses and by a final rock pitch. Kloke and Hibler hurried westward across a long snow basin and after ascending easy snow slopes and traversing below the east ridge of “Anacortes Peak’ (8900 feet), rapidly climbed a slab to the top. The next day Kloke, Hibler and Bill Eubank made second ascents of the “Southwest and Middle Chieftains,” just west of Base Camp. Kloke and Hibler also climbed a 75-foot pinnacle, “Little Chief Tower” (8700 feet), between the two peaks that required seven pitons for protection. The Eubanks and I made an easy ascent of the southeast summit of Mount Filer on August 10, while Kloke and Hibler set up a high camp be10w P 8,650. An August 11, KIoke and Hibler in 50 minutes from camp reached the summit of Tahumming Mountain (8400 feet ) up snow S!O~S on the north side. They then continued south toward a sharp rock spire. After traversing onto its east face, they ascended class 3 to 4 rock to the summit of “The Fang” (8650 feet). The last peak of the day and trip was “Perseverance Peak” (8500 feet), lying to the west of “The Fang,” which they ascended on snow slopes on the north side of the summit. JAMIS, PETROSKE, M.D.

Homathko Snowfiti Peaks. On July 28, Lucille and Stanley Adamson, John Hall, Daniel Hinckley, Bruce Peterson and I left Campbell River, , in two heavily loaded Beaver aircraft for a month-long expedition to the Homathko Snowfield. An airdrop of supplies was made I CLIMBS AND EXPEDITIONS 417

on the upper Cambridge Glacier between Pembroke and Cloister Peaks. After landing at the head of Franklyn Arm on Chilko Lake we ascended the valley of Nine Mile Creek. We crossed the wall at the head of this valley on the northwest side and easily reached the terminus of the Alph Glacier by descending a small, snow-filled valley. We ascended the Alph Glacier and after 31/z days’ travel from the lake established Base Camp at the airdrop site. From here first ascents were made of St. Johns, Cloister and Mist Peaks. We crossed the Homathko Snowfield twice from Sasquatch Pass to the southern end. On the first journey we climbed a peak three miles south of Cambridge Peak which we named “Reed Peak,” Plateau Peak and a peak 3% miles west of Cambridge Peak which we named “Mazama Peak.” These were all new ascents. We also made the second ascent of Mount Grenville by a new route on the north side. On the second traverse we established a camp on the Eva Glacier between Gargoyle and Janus Peaks but bad weather prevented our making any further climbs. The return to Chilko Lake was via our approach route. GEORGE CUMMINGS, Mazamas

GREENLAND Nihon University Greenland Crossing Exeedition and Mount Forel. Kinju Ikeda, leader, Tsugio Satsukime, Hiroshi Sagano and Tadashi Tawata were the crossing party. Training dogs and in support were Takayashi Oguri, Shoji Sugahara, Hiroshi Nagashima, Katuo Kojima and Susumu Nakamura. On July 3 they went by Greenlanders’ boat to Semiligaq from Kunmiut and the next day, with ten Eskimo dogs and a ton of baggage, all were landed in the morning and camped on the glacier that night. The sledge journey began on the 5th. On the 9th they reached September Glacier, having crossed three passes and traveled on Stephan and Knud Rasmussen glaciers. They continued along the Habets Glacier over Eskimo Pass to the Glacier de France, which was covered with sand and made sledging laborious. Camp on July 16 was at 7900 feet on the behind Avantgarden Mountain. After a day’s recon- noissance, Ikeda, Oguri, Nagashima, Miyoshi and Sagano took 17 hours on July 18 to climb to the highest summit of Avantgarden ( 10,630 feet). (This would appear to be the same as the peak the Imperial College party called “Stephensonsbjerg.” See A.A.J., 1968, 16:1, pp. 182-3.- Editor.) Sugahara, Kojima, Tawata and Nakamura made the second Japanese ascent of Fore1 (11,024 feet) on July 20. On July 24 they divided into two parties, the support group returning to Kunmiut on