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1955 Number 13

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1955 Number 13 Organized 1906 Incorporated 1913 The Mountaineer Volume 48 December 28, 1955 Number 13 Editor Boa KOEHLER Dear Mountaineer, This is your Annual. You-the Tacoma Editor climbers, viewfinders, trail trippers, BRUNHILDE WISLICENUS campcra£ters, skiers, photographers -made it possible because of your extensive programs throughout Everett Editors 1955. And some of you even took KE ' CARPENTER time to report your activities and GAIL CRUMMETT to prepare articles of general in­ GERTRUDE SCHOCK terest. To all of you, thanks a lot. There are a number of Moun­ Editorial Assistant taineers who, although their names MORDA c. SLAUSO do not appear on the masthead, contributed significantly to this Climbing Adviser yearbook. They are, of course, too DICK MERRITT numerous to mention. We hope you like our idea of issu­ Membership Editor ing the Annual after the hustle and LORETT A SLATER bustle of tl1e holiday season has passed. Membership Committee: Winifred A. Smith, Tacoma; Violet Johnson, Everett; If your yef1r of mountaineering Marguerite Bradshaw, Elenor Buswell, has been as rewarding as ours, Ruth Hobbs, Lee Snider, typists and then we know it has indeed been proofreaders. most successful. B. K. Advertising Typist: Shirley Cox COPYRIGHT 1955 BY THE MOUNTAINEERS, Inc. (1) CONTENTS General Articles CONQUERING THE WISHBONE ARETE-by Don Claunch .... .....................·-················-··· 7 ADVENTURING IN LEBANO -by Elizabeth Johriston ····-···············-··········-·······-····· 11 MouNT RAINIER IN I DIAN LEGE TDRY-by Ella E. Clark···········-······-·····-·-·······-··- 14 SOME CLIMBS IN THE TETONS-by Maury Muzzy·····--··-····--·-··-····-···--········-- 17 Wu,TER FuN FOR THE WEn-FooTED--by Everett Lasher_···-·····-··-··-····-··········-- 18 MIDSUMMER MAD rEss- an "Uncle Dudley". editorial .......·--······· ···-····--······--···-- 21 GLACIAL ADVANCES IN THE CASCADES-by Kermit Bengston and A. E. Harrison ....... 22 CLIMBING THE BIG HoR CRAGS OF 24 . loAHo-by Lincolri Hales····-·········-····-·-·-········ FROM THE COLUMBIA TO MEXICO ALONG THE PACIFIC CREST TRAILS- by Joseph T. Ha::,ard................. ·-······-········-··· ·········································-····-··· 26 CLIMJ3ING IN JAPAN UNDER THE AUGUST MooN-by Dave ColUns ··-····--··-······-····· 31 LITTE-BoY-BROWN: A POEM-by Josephine Leckenby ···-··············-···-·····--·-····-········ 34 MEANY SKI HuT AREA SAW AN EARLY EPIC STRUGGLE-by Keith D. Goodmari _______ 35 GLACIBR PEAX AREA: WILDERNESS OR WAsTE?-by Philip E. Zalesky ·········--····-······ 37 Club Activities "TI-IIs Is THE FoREST PRIMEVAL": LETTER BY MARY P. REMEY AND PATIENCE L. PASCHALL-with an introduction by Morda C. Slauson·········-·-··························· 42 f' T.1-m YOUNG IN HEAin: A PoEM-by R. Bruce Kizer.·--····-·····---····-·-··················· 44 I SUMMER OUTING: Two WEEKS IN THE TETONs-by Jean Rothacher ....·-···· -·---········· 45 C,u.1PCRAFTERS' GYPSY TouR: AGATE HUNTERS AND AGILE HIKERS-by Blanche West 48 Ju IORS Co rnuCT A SOLEMN CEREMONY I THE CASCADES-by Sharon Fairley ____ 49 PLAYERS PRESENT A MmACLE IN THE FOREST THEATRE-by Ray E. LeVine... ___ 50 THREE MouNTAI EERING AccmE Ts-by Victor Josenclal..________ ···----··-····-········-· 52 CLIMBI G OTE -by Four Mountaineers··-······· ·······--·-····-·-····-··-··--·--·····---··· 55 FnoM ALL REPOHTS: A RouNDUP OF CoMMlTTEE AcnvrrIBs CLIMBING ··-······-··-··-·-·-·-······· 58 MOUNT BAKER CABIN ·····-··-········· 66 EXPEDITION ····-·----·-···-·-·-···-· 59 SKI RECliEATION ·-··-------�---···-- 67 BANQUET ·-··-··--·····-···-··------· 60 SNOQUALMIE LODGE ---····--·-···-·-· 67 TRAIL TRIPS ·---···---------···--· 61 PHOTOGRAPI-IIC ------·-·------·· 69 MEANY SKI Hur ·-·-·-···-----···-· 64 DANCE ·····-····-··-·-··--···-···-··-···· 69 STEVE s Hur ---·····-···-·····--··-· 65 PLAYERS ···-······-·-·--------···· 70 [ ( Contents continues on next page) -Photo by Stella Degenhardt Lake O'Hara Summer Outing, 1953- "Prize Winner 1954 Newspaper National Snapshot Awards." (3) THE YEAR I TACOMA IN REVIE\V ______________________________________________________________________________ 71 h's BEEN A Busy YEAR IN EvERETI' ····------------------------------------------------------------------------ 76 ON THE MouNTAINEER's BOOKSHELF-by Sophie Laddy, Librarian _____________________________ 78 Mou -TAI EERs' MAP COLLECTION .... __________________________________________________________________________ 80 Mou TAI REscuE CouNCIL ALLIED WITH Mou TAI 'EERS ----------------------------·------------ 81 PRESIDENT's MESSAGE-hy Chester Powell ____________________________________________________________________ 82 OFFICERS, TRUSTEES A 'D Co 111uTTEE CHAIRME '------------------------------------------------------- 83 BY-LAWS OF THE MOUNTAINEERS -------------------------·-----------------------------------------.------------- 84 FIN ANClAL REPORTS --------------· ·---·-·········---------------------------------------------------------------------- 90 TACOMA ---------------------------------- 92 EVEHET'l' ---------------------------------- 93 MEMBERSHIP RosTEn ____________________________ ----------------__ ------······- -·····-····-·······-····--····-·····-·····- 94 TACOMA -------------------·-········-----120 EVERETT ---·························------122 THE ADVERTISERS-A 'D WHERE You W1LL FIND THErn MESSAGES Recreational Equipment Eddie Bauer_·--···-···--·-·---···--·····-----·-----105 Cooperative ------------------------------------ 97 The Ski HuL.. ·-····- ··----------········--·-···-107 Anderson & Thompson Ski Co.... 99 The Barnard Co ..·--------- ··-··················109 Osborn & Ulland, Inc .. _____________________100 A. I. Kelty Mfg. Co .. .......... ...... .... .. ...111 Gerry Mountaineering Sita ... ... ... .. ... ............. ... ... ......... ........ ....113 Equipment Co.. ..·----------------------------103 Pacific Printing Co ......... ..'. ..... .... - .. ...115 Published monthly, January to November, inclusive, and semi-monthly during December by THE MOUNTAINEERS, Inc., P. 0. Box 122, Seattle 11, Washington Clubrooms -523 Pike St., Seattle Subscription Price - $2.00 yearly Entered as Second Class Matter, April 18, 1922, at Post Office in Seattle, Washington, under the Act of March 3, 1879. PACIFIC PRINTING COMPANY OF SEATTLE, INC. -Photo by Ben Thompson DIRECT UNCLIMBED north face of Mount Robson (about 2,000 feet is shown). Ice teeth of Northwest Ridge can be seen on right skyline. (4) ·• ,,. c." .� '• ' ·. :c...... ,�, -.. , -� '•. ' �rt .• , ...• ·. ,,;, ·� ·"�-�: .� ..;.:./!', �···.· ,'. .... I l Conquering the Wishbone Arete A party of three finds high adventure on � Mount Robson in the Canadian Rockies by Don Claunch COMING BACK to Mount Robson, the highest the Wishbone by the right branch, later and most magnificent peak in the Canadian known as the "Schauffelberger Arete." This Rockies, after two years was not a new ex­ trio led by Schauffelberger accomplished an perience for me, but I did not realize what amazing feat of dete1mined mountaineering, was to come in the way of unique and stimu­ not to be matched in many years by obtain­ lating adventures. ing a point estimated to be 400-600 feet In 1953 on a previous successful ascent, below the summit. They stopped because 0£ we had studied the great mountain well for slow and difficult step cutting among the ice possibilities in new routes. Three routes prom­ towers in addition to an oncoming storm. ising unusual difficulty were unclimbed: 1) The guide was tremendously disappointed be­ the direct north face above Berg Lake, per­ cause this was a great ambition. haps the most savage looking ice wall in the A number of others have made attempts Rockies; 2) the orthwest Ridge, covered with since then, but no one bad succeeded in com­ a series of fantastic ice teeth high up, the ing anywhere near the point reached in 1913, right skyline as seen from Berg Lake; and until 1951 when Fred A yres, well known 3) the well known and frequently attempted climber from Portland, Oregon, Al Creswell Southwest or Wishbone Arete, possibly the and John Oberlin came to within 1800 feet longest and most sustained in difficulty of of the top. Weather was excellent but snow all the long ridges in the Rocky Mountains. conditions on the upper ice slopes were bad; one of these routes looked appealing, but in fact it appeared as though the snow was they all held a certain challenge and facina­ on the verge of avalanching; thus the party tion to the mountaineer. was forced to turn back. "There was no re­ In the summer of 1951 I first glimpsed the spite from continual cautious belaying up a Wishbone Arete, a ridge composed of an al­ seemingly endless succession of towers, always most endless array of rock cliffs and ice towers, exposed and always composed of rotten narrow, constantly exposed and stretching rocks." They were almost stopped twice by 5000 feet to the 12,972-foot ice crown. Two sheer cliffs. Both Schauffelberger and Ayres branches come together almost 2000 feet be­ would not descend what they had come up, low tl1e summit and form a narrow ridge of but rather crossed to the snow gully of the ice, corniced and covered in its upper reaches "Great Couloir" and used this-a very dan­ with amazing blocks of ice, overhanging gerous spot since avalanches funnel down sometimes in one direction and sometimes in the chute. the other-often as big as small houses-the Challenged by the beauty and length of final obstacle. the Schauffelberger Arete, it was my constant In 1913 Walter Schauffelberger, Swiss wish to attempt this route. Unfortunately
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