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THE WILDCAT WAY TO WELLNESS Food Heritage Kentucky’s food and cooks are historically renowned. This publication provides a historical perspective on cooking and eating in the Com- monwealth. also provides advice on eating tasty and healthy regional foods that can be prepared quickly.

Prepared by Janet Tietyen, Ph.D., R.D., he challenges we face today Early Cooking Extension Specialist in Food and Nutri- Tin appropriately feeding our- tion, Family and Consumer Sciences selves are largely a matter of our As the first state west of the time, skills, and eating behaviors. Al-legheny Mountains, Kentucky’s Eating today is easier than it lifestyle reflects old ’s ever has been. What may not be colonial ways. Kentucky has so easy is the recognition of the also been influenced by its own right food choices, those which native culture and the ethnic meet our physical needs and our and religious groups that settled sense of belonging to our family here. We tend to be fond of our and regional community while still own brand of food such as fried preserving our environmental and chicken, greens, grits, and corn economic stability. bread. Taking the time to re-establish im- An old saying goes, “The less portant food rituals and methods food you have, the more you know of commerce is likely to benefit about cooking.” Kentucky cooks our own well-being and that of in the early 1900s made their our families and our communi- own butter and cottage cheese, ties. The value of purchasing and canned their own produce, baked preparing foods to eat at work and breads and desserts, and cured home needs to be recognized and meats. Growing, preserving, and fostered. Take the time to preserve preparing food occupied much Kentucky’s food heritage and to of the homemaker’s time and re- play your part in its future. Your sources. Looking today at antique food choices today will influence butter churns and molds, we can the way the world looks tomorrow. be thankful for modern advances The extra effort required to serve in agriculture and food systems. local, fresh, and healthy foods will be worth your while. At the beginning of the 20th ous activities were getting water century, cooking and housekeep- from the well (when no running ing remained hard work, as shown water was available) and carrying in the following chart, “Cooking wood for the stove. If you needed and Eating in Kentucky—A Brief , you went to the cow. Even History.” In the early 1900s, few families with moderate incomes tools were available to make hired someone to assist with food cooking easier. The most strenu- preparation.

The chart below shows how growing, cooking, and eating have changed in Kentucky over the last 1,000 years: Cooking and Eating in Kentucky—A Brief History 11th Century Native Americans occupied the land now called Kentucky. In the western part of the state at the meeting of the and rivers lived the Woodland . The Woodland people gathered a variety of crops and hunted animals for food and medicine. This provided a wealth of natural resources, including water transportation and wildlife.

14th Century Native Americans of the mound-building cultures, the Mis- sissippian people, lived in permanent settlements in Western Kentucky, which allowed them to develop and experiment with annual crops.

16th Century Native American tribes such as the raised crops of corn, beans, various squashes, and sunflower seeds. They gathered fruits and vegetables, hunted game, and speared or trapped fish.

17th Century People from Africa arrived in bondage, bringing okra, black- eyed peas, collard greens, yams, and watermelons to Kentucky and the rest of the South.

18th Century The first Europeans explored Kentucky in the mid-1700s. By the late 1700s, pioneer settlements were established, bringing Scottish, English, and German influences to Kentucky. The Europeans learned from the Native Americans and contributed cattle, pigs, chickens, cabbage, turnips, apples, , and apricots to the local diet.

19th Century During the 1800s, Kentucky cooks began to publish books to share their culinary achievements. In 1839, Lettice Bryan published The Kentucky Housewife. In 1874, Housekeeping in the Bluegrass was published by the women of the Presbyte- rian Church of Paris. In 1884, The New Kentucky Home Cook Book was published by the Maysville Methodist Episcopal Church. The Kentucky Cookery Book by Mrs. Peter A. White was published in 1891, and Mrs. John G. Carlisle’s Kentucky Cook Book was published in 1893.

2 But at the same time, con- On the other hand: venience foods such as mass- • Annual consumption of added produced, sliced bread began to fats and oils declined seven be introduced. The first U.S. health percent between 1993 and food craze was born in Battle 1997, with total fat consumption Creek, , when Kellogg’s recently averaging 33 percent. introduced corn flakes in 1906. In • Consumer awareness of the link the 1920s and ’30s, widespread between dietary fat and risk of availability of electricity and refrig- heart disease increased 25 per- eration changed the way cent between 1988 and 1995. we cook and eat. These conve- While fat consumption is ap- niences made it possible for ever- proaching the recommended level smaller families to prepare and (30 percent of calories) and car- manage their own meals without diovascular diseases are on the The good old Southern domestic help. Since World War decline, overweight and obesity breakfast of grits, country II, our food choices have changed are on the rise. ham, biscuits and redeye significantly, with the availability of Our ancestors relished the year-round produce, a vast array variety of fruits and vegetables de- gravy is a thing of the past. of new food products, and menus scribed in The Foxfire Book of Ap- ...a survey of the eating hab- that are influenced by both ethnic palachian Cookery (1992). Plenty its of the residents of a small and traditional cuisines. Introduc- of fresh vegetables were available tion of frozen foods and the mi- in the summer months, including Southern town...found that crowave oven have dramatically mustard greens, collards, “sallet” the typical breakfast is now affected food preparation tech- greens, tomatoes, onions, let- cold cereal, milk, toast, cof- niques and development of new tuce, cucumbers, peppers, okra, fee, and juice... food products. English peas, cabbage, beets, Over the last 25 years Kentuck- beans, carrots, sweet potatoes, This is all very depressing. ians have developed a taste for and squash. For years, I’ve heard that the fast food and have not been eat- During the winter our ancestors, South will rise again, but no- ing enough fruits and vegetables. lacking refrigeration and having Consider these facts: limited food preservation tech- body told me it would rise to • Only one in five Kentucky adults niques, managed to serve pick- a breakfast of cold cereal... eats the five daily servings of led beans and cucumbers, dried —Charlie Robins, Tampa (Fla.) fruits and vegetables recom- beans and field peas, kraut, Irish Times, 9/26/80 mended for good health. U.S. potatoes, sweet potatoes, cab- Quoted in Southern Food by consumers are averaging 1½ bage, turnips, and dried apples. John Egerton, 1987 servings of dairy foods per day, Corn bread, biscuits, and yeast only half the amount recom- breads were served with meals. mended for good health. Jams, jellies, honey, relishes, • Soft drink consumption in the and chutneys added flavor. These has increased foods, with smaller amounts of 111 percent over the last quarter dairy foods, meat, poultry, and century. fish, formed the diet in much of • In 1997, U.S. food consumers Kentucky in the early to mid- ate 75 percent more sugar and 1900s. sweeteners than did their coun- terparts in 1909.

3 Fruits and Vegetables Kentuckians, like other U.S. citizens, are spending more time In such a land of plenty, it outside the home earning a living seems a shame that 80 percent and less time preparing meals at of Kentuckians in the 21st century home. Savvy consumers who de- do not eat five servings of fruits sire more home-cooked meals are and vegetables a day, because learning to use new combinations plant foods appear to offer special of convenience foods with fresh, protection against many diseases, local, and ethnic ingredients. including heart disease, certain Many meals during the week are cancers, and diabetes. Today prepared with help of the micro- fresh, frozen, or canned produce wave and are one-dish wonders can be prepared by steaming, for easy serving and cleanup. sauteing, stir-frying, microwaving, Weekends and holidays provide stewing, or baking. opportunities to share meals with I remember food and its daily Food today is relatively inex- family and friends. An invitation to pensive, with the average U.S. preparation as a meaningful a home-cooked meal has become food budget around 11 percent one of the hottest tickets in town. In part of our lives. There were of take-home income. Calories today’s world, people appreciate no frozen dinners, no are easy to come by, but physical the time and skills required to set quick-fix meals to be picked activity is hard for many people the table for a real meal. to work into a daily routine, so up at the supermarket. What is motivating the food weight control is more of an issue selections of U.S. consumers —Betty Layman Receveur, than ever. today? They report that taste is the “Mama’s Favorite” in Savory The food choices of the future, most important consideration in Memories, L. E. Beattie; ed., 1998. for well-being and sustainability, choosing the foods they eat. The will need to be lower in both calo- cost of the food is the second most ries and sweets. We will need to important consideration, followed learn to be more active in a world by convenience, nutrition, and of conveniences, televisions, weight control concerns (Glanz automobiles, and computers. In et al., 1998). order to achieve healthier eating patterns, Kentuckians will need to consume greater quantities of whole grains, fresh produce, lean Figure 1. Frequency of weekly dinner meats, and low-fat dairy products. meal preparation in U.S. homes.

Less Time in the Kitchen Every 3-4 Days According to The Kitchen Re- port II, a 1999 survey conducted Every for the National Pork Producers 2 Days Council, most family meal pre- Every 5-6 Days parers (83 percent) like to cook. But are cooking skills becoming Every 7 Days rare? Figure 1 shows the frequen- cy of weekly dinner preparation in today’s U.S. homes.

4 The desire for convenience Indeed, these trends are the was evident, as reported in The ones that have taken shape in the Kitchen Report II. It showed that year 2000. Food today is more af- most food consumers (98 percent) fordable, safer, of greater variety, use convenience items like salad and more convenient than ever mixes, shredded cheese, canned before. and frozen foods, and prepared deli dishes. Guide for Good Eating With today’s food supply, re- Cooking with Kentucky sponsible food consumers can Foods Today prepare affordable, tasty, quick, In the year 2000, Kentuckians and healthy meals and snacks. have many choices. Our ancestors To reshape your diet, The Wildcat would be amazed at the variety Way to Wellness offers this guide: and convenience of foods avail- • Build a base of good sandwich But I am a Southerner, and able in the 21st century. And, as bread, corn bread, quick breads, everyone knows we have all always, we should be knowledge- bagels, tortillas, pasta, cere- able about our food supply in als, and whole grains. Buy lo- been preoccupied with food order to make informed decisions cally produced baked goods and and stories since birth... about food purchases and eating learn to use flavored baking I have always loved to eat, mixes you can enrich with oats, behaviors. The movement toward loved to be around other sustainable local food systems wheat germ, and fruits. Make has been under way for some your own pancakes, muffins, and people eating. Why, I even time. The book 21st Century Ba- quick breads with a reduced-fat love pictures of people eating. sics, published in 1990, noted the baking mix. —Fannie Flagg, Southern author following trends: • Add some color with plenty of fruits and vegetables prepared Original Whistle Stop Café As we race toward the end of the Cookbook, 1993 20th century, culinary experts are any way you like them. Colorful hard at work trying to define the fruits and vegetables generally cooking and dining trends that will contain more nutrients. Fresh carry us into the new millennium. produce in season, canned While opinions may vary on some fine points, there appears to be a tomato products such as salsa consensus on three basic trends: and sauces, frozen vegetables, • A continuing emphasis on lighter, and canned beans can make up fresher, healthier ingredients your five fruits and vegetables and methods of preparation that reflects a realization that part of the pleasure of good cooking is the contribution it makes to our Top general well-being. It Off • An embracing of the best methods of preparation and ingredients of Pick the world’s cuisines. Prime Protein • A return to basic, home-style cooking with a new emphasis Add Some Color on freshness and lightness and enlivened by a wide range of ex- Build a Base otic new ingredients that are fast becoming supermarket staples.

5 a day. Think about what you like Your Extension office in this category and keep it on has a variety of resources to help hand. you learn the skills you need to • Pick prime protein from milk, serve healthy meals that your fam- eggs, cheeses, yogurt, meats, ily will like. Contact your Extension poultry, soy, and beans to agent for Family and Consumer add satisfaction and important Sciences to learn more about the nutrients. Today’s pork, beef, food and nutrition programs in and chicken products come in your county. stir-fry and cuts, which are ideal to add to a plant- based diet. • Top it off by enriching your diet with flavors, using relishes, pick- les, chutneys, honey, herbs, spic- es, oils, butter, and margarine. Choose flavorful, heart-healthy oils like olive, soy, peanut, or canola. Flavored oils such as roasted garlic oil deliver concen- trated taste in small amounts.

6 References Krondl, Michael. Around the American Table: Treasured Beattie, L. Elisabeth, ed. Savory Recipes and Food Traditions Memories. The University Press from the American Cookery Col- of Kentucky, , Ky, lections of the New Public 1998. Library. Adams Publishing, Hol- Bon Appetit Publishing Corp. 21st brook, Mass., 1995. Century Basics. Volume I. Los National Pork Producers Council. Angeles, Calif., 1990. The Kitchen Report II. #03409- Cooper, Dorothea C. Kentucky 6/99, Des Moines, , 1999. Hospitality, A 200-Year Tradi- Putnam, J. and Allshouse, J. tion. Kentucky Federation of Food Consumption, Prices, and Women’s Clubs, Louisville, Ky., Expenditures 1970-95. USDA 1976. Economic Research Service, Egerton, John. Southern Food: At , D.C., Statistical Home, On the Road, In History. Bulletin No. 939, August 1997. Alfred A Knopf, Inc., , Ross, Elizabeth. Kentucky Keep- 1987. sakes. McClanahan Publishing, Flagg, Fannie. Original Whistle Kuttawa, Ky., 1996. Stop Café Cookbook. Ballentine Still, James. River of Earth. The Books, New York, 1993. University Press of Kentucky, Glanz, K., Basil, M., Maibach, E., Lexington, Ky., 1940. Goldberg, J., and Snyder, D. Tietyen, Janet. The Wildcat Way “Why Americans eat what they to Wellness. CATSkills for Better do: Taste, nutrition, cost, con- Health: Cooking, Activity, and venience, and weight control Time to Be Well. University of concerns as influences on food Kentucky Cooperative Exten- consumption.” Journal of the sion Service, 1999. American Dietetic Association, 98: 1118-1126, 1998. Wood, Campbell. “Homegrown and Healthy—Focus on Ken- King, Betty S., ed. Pioneers tucky Agriculture.” Kentucky and Plowshares for Kentucky Living, January 2000. Agriculture. The Kentucky LeadershipAgriculture and Environ- mental Sustainability Project. Coopera- tive Extension Service, 1998.

7 We grow ideas to help you eat right. University of Kentucky College of Agriculture Cooperative Extension Service

THE WILDCAT WAY WellnessTO

Wildcat Way to Wellness Series Editor: Janet Tietyen, Ph.D., R.D., Extension Specialist, Food and Nutrition, Family and Consumer Sciences

Educational programs of the Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability, or national origin. Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension work, Acts of May 8 and 30, 1914, in cooperation with the U.S. Department of Agriculture, C. Oran Little, Director of Coop- erative Extension Service, University of Kentucky College of Agriculture, Lexington, and Kentucky State University, Frankfort. Copyright © 2000 for materials developed by the University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service. This publication may be reproduced in portions or its entirety for educational or nonprofit purposes only. Permitted users shall give credit to the author(s) and include this copyright notice. Publications are also available on the World Wide Web at: http://www.ca.uky.edu. Is- sued 7-2000, 2500 copies.