Pairings Offer Opportunities for Inventory Control, Especially Where You Have Excellent Wines That People Don't Know About

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FEATURES

10 On-Premise Advice Spring into action on the get-prepped check list. 25 What’s Kosher? Surprisingly, not all kosher wines are certiﬁ ed kosher for Passover as well. 28 Tequila On Fire High-end expressions are driving the category — and challenging whiskies as sipping spirits. 28 36 A Family Distillate Heaven Hill Distillery celebrates 80 years of crafting whiskey and building brands. 40 Vin de France Steps Up Annual competition provides even more momentum for a new breed of French wine. 42 When Wine is On the Menu With pairing menus, wine makes culinary artistry more proﬁ table. 46 O Spain’s Beaten Path Under-the-radar Cariñena region o ers old vines, character 36 and value.

42 46 April 2015 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL 3 APRIL2015

50 Selling the Good Stu Independents ﬁ nd reward in value sweet spots, avoiding lowest price tier. 52 On Call with Jim Beam Honey American Whiskey is happily tapping the whiskey’s sweet side 50 in NYC. 54 Tequila Double-Shot Pernod Ricard brands Avión and Altos make a potent pair. 58 Bar Talk Travis St. Germain straddles classic and modern at Clover Club in Brooklyn. 52

58 54 DEPARTMENTS

5 Market Point 18 Retail Review 23 Serving Up 6 News Front 19 The Find 24 Cocktail Corner 12 Association News 20 Beer Column 26 Wine Buzz 14 Around Town 22 By The Numbers 56 New Products & Promotions

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4 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL April 2015 See www.thebeveragejournal.com for online product access RHODE ISLAND APRIL2015 BEVERAGE JOURNAL Volume 79, April 2015, No. 4 (ISSN 0035-4652) Ah, April. Let’s say goodbye to winter for good! Your customers are craving great tastes that reflect the season. PUBLISHER Selling the Good Stu Gerald P. Slone 50 [email protected] Independents ﬁ nd reward in value sweet spots, avoiding lowest ° Cocktail menu offerings can bloom into seasonal success. Read about how to price tier. EDITOR & ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER refresh your bar in this month’s Guest Column, found next to Serving Up. Dana Slone [email protected] 52 On Call with Jim Beam Honey ° RIHA’s Dale Venturini digs out from the winter snow toward a profitable DIRECTOR OF WHOLESALE SERVICES spring season. American Whiskey is happily tapping the whiskey’s sweet side 50 Laurie Buick in NYC. [email protected] ° The cover story is tequila. Stats show faster category growth in reposado and añejo varieties, while luxury bottlings and extreme packaging are proliferating. SUBSCRIPTION/RETAIL SERVICES 54 Tequila Double-Shot Brian Slone Pernod Ricard brands Avión and Altos make a potent pair. [email protected] ° Veteran supplier, Heaven Hill Distillery, is celebrating their 80th anniversary this year. What is the secret to their long-term success? Read on. DESIGN 58 Bar Talk Evan Fraser [email protected] Travis St. Germain straddles classic and modern at Clover Club in Brooklyn. WRITERS Lauren Daley Bob Sample

52 SUBSCRIPTIONS & RENEWALS

$35 FOR ONE YEAR $8 FOR SINGLE COPY $60 FOR TWO YEARS (Includes shipping and handling) ° On-premise offerings shine a spotlight on your spring cleaning list; as well as Subscription includes how to make and measure wine-pairing menus and dinners. Cellar user ID and password All sales are final. ° Off-premise takes a peek at wine pricing within the store. Locally, Retail Review thebeveragejournal.com 203.288.3375 looks at a family-owned operation in Coventry.

Published Monthly By: The Rhode Island Beverage Journal; 2508 Whitney Avenue, P.O. Box 185159; Hamden, ° New Products & Promotions, The Find and Wine Buzz, and a special Kosher CT 06518 is devoted to all liquor, wine and beer licensees. Wine Focus, showcase trends and top picks in all flavors of the season. Nothing may be reproduced or uploaded without written permission from the publisher. This includes articles, Make sure you know how to optimize your time and money by using the free pictures, pdf files, online or electronic versions. Not ° responsible for unsolicited material or advertising claims. suite of business-boosting tools The Beverage Journal offers. Call Laurie, Brian or Dana. Ask us how we can help you get tuned in and online. 58 54 The opinions expressed here are that of the individual authors and not necessarily the views of The Rhode Island Beverage Journal. We reserve the right to reject DEPARTMENTS any material that is flawed due to content or design. All advertisements and price list advertising are subject to the approval of The Beverage Journal which reserves the 5 Market Point 18 Retail Review 23 Serving Up right to edit, reject or properly classify. 6 News Front 19 The Find 24 Cocktail Corner 12 Association News 20 Beer Column 26 Wine Buzz ON THE Periodicals postage paid at New Haven, CT. COVER 14 Around Town 22 By The Numbers 56 New Products & Promotions Postmaster: Send address changes to: RI Beverage Journal, P.O. Box 185159, Hamden CT 06518 HOW BEER, WINE DO NOT FORWARD. By Deborah Kolb ImageBrief.com LIQUOR BRAND INDEX BEER BRAND INDEX AND SPIRITS National Coverage, Local Advantage Page 1a The Beverage Network Publications are served by: WINE BRAND INDEX SHOPPING NETWORK GET TO THE Beverage Media Group, Inc. 116 John Street, 23rd floor, New York, NY 10038 THE INDEX MARKETPLACE tel 212.571.3232 fax 212.571.4443 www.bevnetwork.com The largest compilation of beverage alcohol price and brand information.

April 2015 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL 5 NEWSFRONT

CALIFORNIA WINES FUEL $1.49 BILLION IN Negroni or Negroni-related item sold at participating retailers, U.S. WINE EXPORTS IN 2014 bars and restaurants worldwide will be donated to the charity of their choice. In addition, Campari America will donate $10,000 U.S. wine exports, 90% from to the top fundraising establishment’s charity. Last year, over California, reached $1.49 1,300 bars and restaurants in 18 countries participated in Negroni billion in winery revenues in Week. Bars and restaurants interested in signing up can go to 2014, the second highest dollar www.NegroniWeek.com. value for U.S. wine exports and a 64% increase from NON-SCOTCH WHISKY TIPPED FOR GROWTH five years ago. Challenged by SAYS NEW MARKET RESEARCH a strong dollar and the West Coast port slowdown that began last July, U.S. wine exports were slightly down compared to the previous year while volume was up to 442.7 million liters or 49.2 The whisky segments outside million cases. Of the top 10 export markets for California wines, of Scotch are set for significant the European Union’s 28-member countries were the largest, growth over the next five years, accounting for $518 million; followed by Canada, $487 million; a new IWSR/just-drinks report Japan, $88 million; China, $71 million; Hong Kong, $69 million; has forecast. The report, entitled Mexico, $24 million; South Korea, $22.2 million; Nigeria, $21.9 “Non-Scotch Whisky Insights 2015,” has predicted that the million; Vietnam, $20 million; and Singapore, $16 million. U.S. whisky market, currently totaling around 37.1m cases, will add some 11.5m cases over the five-year period from 2014 to 2019. The Irish whisky segment will increase by 4m cases from SPIRITS, WINE AND BEER SEE THE RISE OF the 6.3m cases sold in 2013. The report states that the “huge SMALLER BRANDS, CATEGORIES and diverse” non-Scotch whisky category has become “one of the drinks industry's major growth drivers” over the past few Smaller brands and categories are years, and that “future growth looks assured” for all segments, outpacing and, in some cases, taking share apart from Canadian whisky. The Tennessee whiskey business from the more well-established in the continues to grow, with flavored whiskies attracting new-to- alcohol industry, according to Technomic’s category consumers. analysis of 2014 year-end results. The largest categories in beer – domestic light and regular – both shed volume, while RESTAURANTS PROJECTED TO ADD OVER two of the smaller categories – craft beer and hard cider – each 300,000 JOBS IN 2015 posted double-digit increases. Vodka continues to hold one-third of total spirits volume. Its momentum improved in 2014, but its The National Restaurant pace was eclipsed by several smaller categories, including Irish Association’s Chief Economist whiskey, cordials/liqueurs and straight American whiskey. Table Bruce Grindy breaks down the wine dominates the wine market, and its 2014 trend improved latest employment trends in a recent over 2013, but it was again markedly outpaced by the considerably news release. He reports that eating smaller sparkling wine category. and drinking places, the primary component of the restaurant industry, accounted for three-fourths of the total restaurant and CAMPARI AMERICA’S NEGRONI WEEK SET foodservice workforce, while adding jobs at a solid 3.5 percent FOR JUNE rate in 2014. “The 2014 gain marked the third consecutive Campari and Imbibe magazine present year in which eating and drinking place job growth topped the third annual Negroni Week 3 percent, the first such occurrence since the 1993 to 1995 from June 1-7, 2015. The charitable period.” He stated that the association expects the industry to event is designed to raise the profile add jobs at a 3.4 percent rate in 2015, posting four consecutive of the famed cocktail as well as local years with employment gains of at least 3 percent. The projected charities. During Negroni Week, a 2015 increase will also represent the fifth consecutive calendar portion of the proceeds from every year in which restaurants added more than 300,000 jobs.

6 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL April 2015 See www.thebeveragejournal.com for online product access Discover SeaGlass Wines Growth Brand for 5 consecutive years 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 “RISING STAR” “RISING STAR” “FAST TRACK” “FAST TRACK” “FAST TRACK”

*Fast Track: The brand must have exceeded 100,000 9-liter cases for year awarded, with double digit growth in each of the past four years. All brands must be at least 5 years old. Rising Star: The brand must be less than ﬁ ve full years old, and must have exhibited notable growth in the past few years.

SG-2015 BeverageMedia_April_Ad_Mech.indd 1 3/6/15 10:33 AM NEWSFRONT

PERNOD RICARD ANNOUNCES SENIOR industry executive, Simms has “been instrumental in making GLOBAL EXECUTIVE ROLES Ciroc an industry success” and has led the brand’s growth efforts since its inception. Under her leadership, Ciroc was named one Pernod Ricard announced a series of of America’s Hottest Brands by Advertising Age (2010) and Market executive appointments of existing Watch Spirit Brand of the Year (2011). She was also a key player leadership team members, beginning in the acquisition of DeLeon Tequila in 2013 and the brand’s July 2015. Pierre Coppéré is appointed Executive Senior Vice- relaunch last fall. Simms will report to Combs and Brian Offutt, President in charge of Growth Initiatives. Philippe Guettat is Chief Operating Officer, Combs Enterprises. appointed Chairman and CEO of Pernod Ricard Asia. César Giron is appointed Chairman and CEO of Martell Mumm BOURDAIN FORMS PARTNERSHIP WITH Perrier-Jouët (MMPJ). Philippe Savinel is appointed Chairman THE BALVENIE and CEO of Pernod. Additionally, Conor McQuaid, currently Group Marketing & Commercial Development Director, was The Balvenie handcrafted appointed Global Business Development Director, the Holding single malt Scotch whisky, and Department as of March 1. Peter Morehead, currently Industrial chef, author and raconteur Director of Irish Distillers Limited (IDL), is appointed Group Anthony Bourdain announced a Operations Director as of April 1, 2015. multifaceted collaboration that will “bring attention to some of WINEBOW GROUP ANNOUNCES THE America’s finest craftspeople.” RETIREMENT OF FOUNDER The partnership will be three-fold and will see Bourdain take a leading role in a series of short films featuring makers from The Winebow Group announced the around the country titled, “Raw Craft;” the selection of the retirement of Leonardo LoCascio, next two Fellows for the American Craft Council Rare Craft an industry leader for over 35 years, Fellowship Awards in association with The Balvenie; and effective June 30, 2015. LoCascio left a curating The Balvenie 2015 Rare Craft Collection. “For me, career in corporate finance and banking there is deep satisfaction in seeing people, with a particular skill to found Winebow in 1980. Under set and a real passion, produce a beautiful thing” said Bourdain. his leadership, Winebow became a major national importer and distributor of fine wines and spirits. In 2014, Winebow HOUSE LEGISLATION FOR BREWERS AND merged with The Vintner Group to create The Winebow BEER INDUSTRY INTRODUCED Group, which continues each company’s shared dedication to quality, education and customer service. LoCascio was one H.R. 232, the Small Brewer Reinvestment of the first individuals to introduce wines from lesser known and Expanding Workforce Act (Small regions to the U.S. market, in particular those from southern BREW Act), was introduced in the 114th Italy, and has shared his knowledge at countless events, Congress on January 8, 2015. The Small industry functions, tastings and seminars around the country. BREW Act seeks to reduce the small brewer rate on the first 60,000 barrels SIMMS APPOINTED PRESIDENT OF COMBS by 50 percent (from $7.00 to $3.50/barrel) and institute a new WINE & SPIRITS rate $16.00 per barrel on beer production above 60,000 barrels up to 2 million barrels. Breweries with an annual production Sean Combs, Chairman and CEO of of 6 million barrels or less would qualify for these tax rates. Combs Enterprises, announced the H.R. 767, the Fair Brewers Excise and Economic Relief Act of appointment of Dia Simms as the new 2015 (Fair BEER Act) seeks to create a “graduated, equitable tax president of Combs Wine & Spirits, the structure, simplifying the tax code.” The bipartisan legislation premium spirits business he created in was introduced on February 5, 2015 to comprehensively reform 2013. As president, Simms will oversee the federal beer tax imposed on brewers and beer importers. Ciroc Ultra Premium Vodka, luxury tequila DeLeon and lead the Each act could impact on the cost of craft beer and the cost of spirits innovation business for the company. An award-winning doing business as a small craft brewery.

8 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL April 2015 See www.thebeveragejournal.com for online product access ATIONA N L

APRIL 1 2 0 1 L 5 A U N C H

*Internal Sales data (2010–2014) **Mintel’s Global New Product Database †Kelton Research, 2014

Canada’s #1 RTD brand translates into PROVEN PERFORMER a 20MM case opportunity in U.S.*

Tropical ﬂavors skyrocketed in the last 2 years (600+ non-alcoholic launches). Palm Breeze will HOT FLAVOR TREND lead this trend in the FMB segment in 2014**

11MM Millennial women consuming High-potenTial targeT over 13MM cases of FMB yearly † ON-PREMISEADVICE

SPRING…INTO ACTION

BY LEN PANAGGIO

After the winter we’ve had, we’re all suffering from cabin fever and assaulted with price increases are ready to make up some of that lost revenue. Before we can do — proteins, electricity, water, that, there is a lot of work to do! Much like the end of summer, minimum wage, etc. — are your when everything is beat and we can start the rehab process, spring costs in-line, allowing you to offers a time for renewal. As good operators, we need to step back make a reasonable profit? and examine everything we do, from top to bottom. There is a lot When you have made all your decisions about product, you will on our plates this time of year, but let’s start with the beverage list. be going to print. Your menu and drink/wine lists are your biggest Just as our food changes seasonally, so do our choices in beverages, marketing tools; they end up in the hands of your guests, so take and we need to start planning for those changes now. I have talked the time to make it right. Ensure your spelling, grammar, and about my search for new and different varietals in the past, and capitalization are correct and don’t rely on autocorrect! Attention this is the time to try it. Rosé has finally taken off, and the season to detail sends a message to guests – good or bad. There are also for them is expanding beyond summer as our guests are beginning new types of easy-to-clean materials for menus that last longer and to understand the virtues of dry rosés. hold up to the normal wear and tear we put them through. They Lighter wines are the wines of choice in the summer, so my cost more up front, but in the long term, a wise investment. suggestion is to mix up your offerings: drop some Cabernets and Lastly, look at your bar; does it need some work? And what add more Pinot Noir, Beaujolais or Chianti for reds and look to about your equipment? I always did a drop some heavier Chardonnays by adding another Sauvignon preventative maintenance program this Blanc, Muscadet or even another food-friendly Pinot Grigio. time of year to ensure the efficient use Of course, sparkling wines need to be available as guests are of refrigerators that will be taxed later in beginning to understand it is more than a celebratory wine. the season. Again, costs some money, but As I have mentioned before, in the beer world, real lagers, not avoids headaches. Talk to your staff; ask industrial lagers, are starting to arrive. I for one would embrace them what tools they need to do their these products as they are lighter in weight (not lo-cal) and are job properly and efficiently. Getting buy- more crisp and refreshing than an IPA, and actually have some in from them is big. The most important flavor! Perfect for a hot, humid day. resource is your human resource — make As you evaluate your spirits program, think about what you can them feel as if they have a vested interest do logistically and the products you already have that you can use. in your success, because it will come back There are so many new items coming out; the big companies are to you, and them, in spades. looking for the next home run, but be careful…trying to get rid of There is much to do this time of year them after it is apparent they don’t work can be a daunting task to prepare for the May - September at best. timeframe, whether in the city or on the Speaking of inventory, while you are in your POS system adding shoreline. Remember, prior planning new products, clean it up! Delete items you no longer have, make it prevents poor performance. After all, easier for staff to find things. Evaluate your pricing. We are being your guests expect you all to run a great operation, all around! ABOUT LEN PANAGGIO, BEVERAGE CONSULTANT Len Panaggio’s career in food and wine spans more than three decades as an owner and as a beverage director at some of the top restaurants in Rhode Island. Currently a hospitality consultant, Len is a graduate of the University of Rhode Island and has attended the Culinary Institute of America Master Sommelier program and the Sterling School of Service and Hospitality.

10 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL April 2015 See www.thebeveragejournal.com for online product access New to Rhode IslaNd atlaNtIc ImpoRtINg Is pRoudly bRINgINg New cRaft beeR, fINe wINe, aNd cRaft spIRIt bRaNds to the Rhode IslaNd maRketplace

For full listing please see our Beverage Journal pages 33 & 34 for full product offerings

@AtlAnticRi Atlantic Importing Company 15 Centre of New England Boulevard Coventry, RI 02816

Office: (401) 702-4115 www.atlanticimporting.com/RI ASSOCIATIONNEWS

THE HOSPITALITY AVALANCHE

BY DALE J. VENTURINI

Spring is on the horizon and here in New England, we’re all annual Restaurant Week in January, enticing locals to enjoy new desperate for warmer and better days ahead. We’ve suffered restaurants at a lower price point, the weather put a damper on through one of the worst winters in New England on record. this popular, economy-spurring marketing vehicle. And, while we understand that this is the northeast and therefore Hotels did not fare any better, and many of the state’s hotels we will get snow in the winter, I don’t think anyone anticipated stood almost empty as travelers canceled plans or were stranded what a battering we’d receive this year. by delayed or canceled flights. Cumulatively, the loss of revenue In a two-week period in January alone, parts of the region also showed in state and city/town coffers with drastically- accumulated more than 60-inches of snowfall, literally stopping reduced meal, beverage and room taxes. According to the U.S. life — and business — in its tracks. From the snow, to the sleet, Travel Association, each year travel and tourism generate $133.9 this deluge of Mother Nature’s best efforts put an unbelievable billion in tax revenue for local, state and federal governments. financial and labor burden on local resources, and its effects Here in Rhode Island, that annual impact can be felt to the tune reverberate like an avalanche throughout the economy. of approximately $4 billion. Mandatory travel bans ensured that roads could be plowed and This decreased revenue stream from the hospitality and tourism that fire and police personnel didn’t risk life and limb to rescue industries, coupled with the additional financial strain of stranded travelers. And, while we can all agree that this was paying for round-the-clock plowing, sanding, and salting is the absolutely the right call by our governor, the result was a virtual equivalent of a financial blizzard. shutdown of all Rhode Island business. Even as the snow melts away, its effects are felt in the frost- heaved sidewalks and pothole laden roadways. We have a lot of lost financial ground to make up for as we head into spring. Hopefully, consumers will be ready to shed their months of relative hibernation and get back out in their communities to spend some money and celebrate the season. As I said, we all know this is New England…and we know that spring flowers and warm, sunny days are on the horizon. And, I’m sure I speak for everyone when I say that they cannot get here soon enough.

The hospitality industry felt the effects of the shut-down particularly hard. Many of the businesses that depend on walk-in customers, like restaurants, were decimated by the weather. Folks who typically go out to eat once or twice a week are not going to make up those nights out the following week, so the business is lost forever. And, while the City of Providence hosted its www.rihospitality.org ABOUT DALE J. VENTURINI, PRESIDENT & CEO, RHODE ISLAND HOSPITALITY ASSOCIATION A veteran of more than 25 years in the hospitality industry, Venturini is considered by many to be the voice of the industry in the state of Rhode Island. She has been instrumental in improving the industry’s educational and training programs in the state, as well as enhancing the bottom line of the business she represents. Venturini splits her time between the office and the State House, a constant presence for her membership.

12 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL April 2015 See www.thebeveragejournal.com for online product access APRIL SHOWERS BRING MAY FLOWERS Search for hibiscus, rose, vanilla, elderflower and other fine blossom flavors—and make sales bloom. Shop from thousands of market SKUs on thebeveragejournal.com trade portal login

search and shop search & shop View portfolios of your favorite distributors. Explore best deals, ﬁ nd your brands, see prices and more. Log in or register today for full access.

Visit TheBeverageJournal.com or contact us at 203.288.3375 or [email protected] Website powered by BeverageMedia.com AROUNDTOWN

SONS OF LIBERTY SPIRITS TAKES NORTH AMERICA WIN FOR FLAVOR

Sons of Liberty’s Hop Flavored Whiskey won “Best Flavored Whiskey in North America” at the Whisky Magazine's World Whiskies Awards in New York City on February 24, 2015. Sons of Liberty Spirits Co-Founder and President Mike Reppucci accepted the award at the annual Whiskies and Spirits Conference. Reppucci said, “We’re now onto the international round where we could potentially win ‘World’s Best Flavored Whiskey’ for the second year in a row.” Last year, the South Kingstown distillery won for its Pumpkin Spice Flavored Whiskey.

NEW ENGLAND TEQUILA & RUM FESTIVAL BEGINS REGISTRATION

New England Tequila & Rum Festival vendor registration, blind tasting competition registration and sponsorship opportunities began last month for the three-day festival. The event will be held on April 30 through May 2, 2015, with a with a portion of ticket sales to be donated to Johnson & Wales’ Fellowship Program. Companies and vendors who wish to register may contact Donna Wing, Director of Sales & Catering, Twin River at (401) 475-8438 for packages and prices. Visit www.newenglandtequilaandrumfestival.com for more information.

DISTRIBUTOR VISIT WITH CAPE CLASSICS HIGHLIGHTS WINE REGION

M.S. Walker President Doug Shaw traveled to the wine regions of South Africa to visit Cape Classics’ farms and vineyards in February. As the brand’s first U.S. distributor partner, Shaw first took this trip back in 1991, and recounted the developments in winemaking that are unique to the Cape Classic portfolio. “I felt a distinct aura of confidence and pride with the proprietors and winemakers, yet a humbleness that keeps them grounded. I believe this has resulted in more risk taking with all elements leading up to the final product, and ultimately more complex and interesting wines,” said Shaw.

M.S. Walker President Doug Shaw and Thomas Webb, General Manager of Thelema Mountain Vineyards, the first winery represented by Cape Classics and imported to the U.S. through M.S. Walker.

14 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL April 2015 See www.thebeveragejournal.com for online product access AROUNDTOWN

THOMAS TEW RUM FEATURED IN NEWPORT COCKTAIL COMPETITION

Thomas Tew Rum hosted its first cocktail contest at The Revolving Door Restaurant in Newport on February 16, 2015. Bartenders from around the state were instructed to create a hand-crafted cocktail to highlight both Newport and Thomas Tew Authentic Pot Still Rum. Newport Distilling Co. became the first licensed distillery in Rhode Island in 135 years, recreating an 18th century-inspired rum named after the Rhode Island pirate and resident of Newport, Thomas Tew. The event was part of the Newport Winter Festival. 1 2 1. The winner of the evening for both Grand Prize and People’s Choice was “The Wink,” a cocktail crafted by Frank Martucci of Twin River Casino. The Wink was then the featured cocktail for the month of March at The Revolving Door Restaurant. 2. Newport Distilling Co.’s Thomas Tew Rum with a creation by Jonathan Dille, The Grange, Providence. 3. Judges were Revolving Door Mixologist and Bar Manager Jason Kindness; Chris Almeida, United States Bartender’s Guild RI Chapter President; and Ryan Belmore, Owner, What’s Up Newport.

Photos by Chris Almeida.

NEWPORT STORM LAUNCHES NEW FOUR-PACK

Coastal Extreme Brewing Company, brewers of Newport Storm beers, announces its new four-pack addition, called Rye of the Storm. The brewers used double the rye, double the IPA and Cascade, New Zealand Orbit and German Tradition hops to invoke floral and tropical citrus aromas with an American Pale Ale kick. Rye of the Storm is now available in Rhode Island, Connecticut, Massachusetts, Pennsylvania and Maine. The new brew is 8% ABV.

ATLANTIC IMPORTING & DISTRIBUTING EXPANDS INTO OCEAN STATE

Atlantic Importing & Distributing announced its Rhode Island market entry. Based in Framingham, Mass., Atlantic Importing was founded in 1995, beginning by hand-selecting and importing wines, spirits, beers and gourmet products for liquor stores and later, into distributing statewide throughout Massachusetts. Now in Rhode Island, Atlantic brings a strong portfolio of craft beers, craft spirits and fine wines from around the globe.

A sample of products new to the market from Atlantic Importing & Distributing’s portfolio.

April 2015 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL 15 AROUNDTOWN

THE EDDY HOSTS MELETTI 1870 TASTING

On March 4, 2015 The Eddy in Providence and Horizon Beverage’s Origin Division hosted an industry tasting of Meletti 1870. Inspired by a family legacy of producing artisanal Italian cordials, Matteo Meletti developed a traditional bitter aperitivo called 1870. Named after the year in which the distillery was founded in Ascoli Piceno, 1870 pays homage to the distillery’s storied past. The resurgence of traditional spirits in craft cocktails has led 1 2 to an increase in demand and fifth generation, Matteo, turned to the family’s archives and reinvented “an old recipe for modern day.”

1. Meletti-inspired menu at The Eddy. 2. The Saint Sonia Cocktail, a low proof cocktail, also called a “shim:” 1.5 oz., Meletti 1870, .5 oz. ginger syrup, .5 oz. cinnamon syrup, 1 oz. lemon juice, egg white. 3. Matteo Meletti, Proprietor/Owner, Meletti 1870; Alberto E Lopez Lara, Executive Chef, The Dorrance; Vito Lantz, Beverage Program Manager, The Dorrance; Greg Mayer, Bartender, The Dorrance; Sophie Daniels, New England Regional Manager, Opici Wines; Gabriel Rodriguez, Origin Beverage; Tyler Schweppe, Bartender, The Dorrance. 3

Photos by Chris Almeida.

USBG RI LAUNCHES FERNET-SPONSORED MEMBER COIN

United States Bartenders Guild (USBG) Rhode Island chapter members celebrated at The Avery in Providence on March 9, 2015. The event brought together members to pick up their USBG/Fernet chapter coins. Kirsten Amann, Fratelli-Branca’s Fernet Brand Champion, kicked off the evening’s festivities along with USBG RI board members, including Chapter President Chris Almeida. Anyone 1 interested the chapter and its activities can contact [email protected].

1. Kirsten Amann, Fratelli-Branca’s Fernet Brand Champion spins the wheel on a game used for members to earn their coin. 2. The Fernet coins are a Guild play on the military tradition of coins representing missions, which were then used in Officers’ Clubs. The coins here are used to challenge the buying of a round with others in the Guild who are present. 3. Twin River Casino’s General Manager of Beverage Operations Frank Martucci with John Richard, owner of 2 3 The Avery. 4. Janna Espada, USBG RI member; Elizabeth Sawtelle, USBG RI Secretary; and Pat Cull, USBG RI, Treasurer.

Photos by Chris Almeida.

16 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL April 2015 See www.thebeveragejournal.com for online product access AROUNDTOWN

NEWPORT’S COCKTAIL WARS SPOTLIGHT LOCAL BARTENDERS

Local bar talent participated in a six-week series of Cocktail Wars at various Newport venues that began in January. The finals were held at The Gas Lamp Grille on February 25, 2015. The four finalists were Victoria Bartolomei of Easton’s Point, Ryan Kennedy of The Revolving Door Restaurant, Jason Kindness of The Revolving Door Restaurant, and Adrienne Nicole of Forty 1 2 1 North. First place went to Jason Kindness, with Ryan Kennedy taking second. The series was sponsored by Horizon Beverage of Rhode Island.

1. Jason Kindness mixes before the judges. 2. Cocktail Wars event and sponsor poster. 3. Victoria Bartolomei and Ryan Kennedy.

Photos by Tristan Pinnock.

MATTIELLO AND PEREZ APPOINTED TO RIHEF BOARD OF DIRECTORS

The RI Hospitality Education Foundation (RIHEF) announced that Johnston resident, Nicole Mattiello and West Warwick resident, Lauren Perez, have been appointed to its Board of Directors. Mattiello is the Marketing and Development Director at Pranzi Catering. She returned to her family’s business in 2014 after schooling and a career in healthcare industry. Lauren Perez is General Manager of the Hampton Inn & Suites Providence/Warwick-Airport hotel and has many years of hospitality experience, working in some of the state’s most well-known properties. Perez 1 2 was previously on the RIHA Board of Directors in 2013. With more than 650 foodservice and hospitality members in Rhode Island, the RIHEF has represented the hospitality and tourism industry in the state since 1982.

1. Nicole Mattiello. 2. Lauren Perez.

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April 2015 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL 17 RETAILREVIEW Anthony’s Wine & Spirits BY BOB SAMPLE

nthony Petrarca, proprietor of Anthony’s Wine & Spirits, never A complains about a snowstorm. His rationale: inclement weather is invariably good for his business. This winter was no exception. The storms that dumped record amounts of snow on the Ocean State also LOCATION increased sales at Anthony’s Wine & Spirits. 895 TIOGUE AVENUE COVENTRY, RI The 2,500-square-foot store was founded in 1993 by Petrarca’s father, Anthony Senior. FACTS The building has been in the family for much SQUARE FOOTAGE: 2,500 longer. Several years before it was a liquor YEARS IN OPERATION: 22 store, Petrarca’s mother and father operated a unisex hair-styling salon at the site. The elder With the growth in popularity of craft beer, Petrarca retired 10 years ago. Petrarca’s wife, the market has shifted from a handful of Carla, also manages the store part-time. dominant brands to many smaller ones. Beer is the store’s mainstay, accounting for Keeping up with trends and ensuring the approximately 60 percent of sales. The rest store’s mix meets public demand is the is evenly divided between wine and spirits. job of Tamara Mageau, who is Petrarca’s “Beer is always our most popular seller,” niece. “She does all the purchasing for our said Petrarca. “When the economy moved microbrew section, and she’s very dedicated,” downhill in the last decade, a lot of the higher said Petrarca. “She goes to all the major beer competitive. A 2,500 square foot building end wines and spirits fell to the wayside, but expos and other industry events. When a next door serves as a warehouse. “Having our beer sales held steady.” new craft brew comes out, Tamara will often that additional storage space helps us to buy do a demo herself. She’ll educate customers in larger volume – and we pass the savings on the history of the company that makes it, along to our customers,” he said. the type of beer, and other selling points.” Two important success factors for any The store makes equal effort on its wine business are to get to know customers offerings. Petrarca said the hottest sellers by name and to take an interest in what’s right now are blended wines. In addition, going on in their lives, said Petrarca. most red wines sell particularly well during “Here, everyone knows everybody else,” he colder months. During summer, beer and continued. “In fact, we still have people wine tastings take place at the store each who come in and remember my dad or mom week; in the winter that scales back to cutting their hair 30 years ago.” every two weeks. The store does occasional Another important consideration is to spirits demos as well, which are hosted by provide something extra to keep customers distributors. The hottest current trends are coming back. This includes helping flavored bourbon and Scotches. customers to their cars with packages and With several larger stores nearby, Petrarca other services. “We get lots of compliments also works especially hard to keep prices on our customer service,” he said. ■

If you own a small, medium or megastore and would like to be featured, email: [email protected]

18 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL April 2015 See www.thebeveragejournal.com for online product access THE FIND Ron Duan 2015 Winner of USBG National Legacy Cocktail Showcase

BACARDI RETOOLS BOTTLE FOR FIRST TIME IN OVER A DECADE Celebrating its 153rd anniversary, Bacardi announced their first packaging update in more than a decade—inspired, not surprisingly, by bartenders. Taller, slimmer and more cylindrical, the new, easy-to-grip bottle aims to ensure superior balance and the perfect pour. Labels made from recycled cane fiber add a green LIMITED-EDITION JOHNNIE WALKER touch. The makeover represents an important complement to the CELEBRATES LUNAR NEW YEAR “Bacardi: Untameable Since 1862” campaign. Fittingly, the new John Walker & Sons has announced the second annual packaging was seen for the first time by industry members at the release of a collector’s edition to commemorate the 2015 USBG National Legacy Cocktail Showcase sponsored by celebration of the Lunar New Year. Johnnie Walker Blue Bacardi, which took place in February in Miami. bacardi.com Label Year of the Ram marries traditional Chinese ceramic artistry with one of the brand’s rarest and most luxurious expressions of the art of blending. When four bottles, with their signature Johnnie Walker slanted labels are placed side by side, a single image unfolds—like a magnificent Chinese scroll painting. SRP $258. 80 proof. johnniewalker.com

E&J GALLO ANNOUNCES NATIONAL EXPANSION OF VINIQ No, this photo is not doctored; the liquid inside is shimmering. The latest addition to NEW HENNESSY COGNAC: Gallo’s expanding spirit portfolio, Viniq, is CENTURIES IN THE MAKING America’s first shimmery liqueur—and is the Turning 250 years old is no small accomplishment, so Hennessy largest introduction in spirits since 1978, based Master Blender Yann Fillioux crafted a Collector’s Blend worthy of on sales growth following the regional product the anniversary. Fillioux filled 250 barrels (each 250 liters) with a launch. Viniq Original is a fusion of vodka, blend of eaux-de-vie ranging from 15 to 40 years of age. Renaud de Moscato, natural fruit flavor and a one-of-a-kind Gironde, member of the Hennessy Tasting Committee, describes the shimmer (the same ingredient that gives liquid as equal parts structured and refined—“It is not a comfortable frosting its sheen or rock candy its leather armchair, it has too much energy for that.” Bitter orange, sparkle). Best served on the rocks or chocolate and loads of spice jump out on the nose. Packaged only with favorite mixers. SRP $19.95/750ml, in 1L bottles, the Collector’s Blend is expected to run out in about a $12.99/375ml. 40 proof. viniq.com year. SRP is $600. hennessy.com

April 2015 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL 19 BEERCOLUMN BPA: BEER CAN LININGS CHALLENGE THE INDUSTRY

BY JACK KENNY

Last summer I wrote about beer cans: about how popular they are Tom Philpott said, “The FDA, among commercial lager consumers, and about the fact that craft after a lengthy review process, brewers are canning their products more than ever before. It was has opted to give BPA a tentative thumbs-up.” Last year the agency a positive view of canned beer and its future. Since then I have pronounced BPA “safe at the current levels occurring in foods.” come across the rising concern over a chemical that is used in the The European Food Safety Authority recently ended its own BPA interior linings of beer cans. The chemical is bisphenol A, called reassessment with the same conclusion, Philpott wrote, “though BPA for short, and it is controversial among producers, regulators, the French government vehemently disagrees and has instituted a healthcare providers, consumer advocacy groups, and regular folks ban.” (motherjones.com) like us. In 2010, Health Canada found BPA in eight canned beers that BPA is a component in the plastic epoxy lining of beer cans – it tested, but called the levels “extremely low” and reiterated and many other cans as well – for the purpose of preventing its assessment that “current dietary exposure to BPA through the contents from reacting with the aluminum. It’s also part of food packaging uses is not expected to pose a health risk to many other items with which we come into contact, such as water the general population.” bottles, dental fillings, medical and dental devices, eyeglass lenses, The other side is populated by quite a few scientists and medical CDs and DVDs, household electronics and sports equipment, to people who point to research reports from around the world name a few. showing that consuming canned beer, soup, soy milk and The chemical has been associated with a range of human ailments, other products resulted in high spikes of BPA in the urine including cancer, diabetes, irregular brain development in of test subjects. children, and reproductive issues. In 2012, the FDA banned its What are the brewers saying? Some of those who bottle their beers use in baby bottles and sippy cups, and later added infant formula say that they will not add cans to their line-up until any potential containers to the list. risk is gone. Oskar Blues, the Colorado company that started the According to medicalnewstoday.com, bisphenol A “can behave in can craze among craft brewers, says it is looking for alternatives to a similar way to estrogen and other hormones in the human body.” BPA. What are those alternatives? Right now there seem to be two. The report says that BPA “is an endocrine disruptor – a substance One of them is polyvinyl chloride (PVC) which comes with its own which interferes with the production, secretion, transport, action, set of negatives, including hormone disruptors; the EPA classifies function and elimination of natural hormones. BPA can imitate it as a known carcinogen. The other possibility is bisphenol S, or our body’s own hormones in a way that could be hazardous for BPS, which is a close relative to BPA and said to come with its own health. Babies and young children are said to be especially sensitive set of chemical issues for humans. to the effects of BPA.” Not all of the beers I consume come from cans, but I doubt if I’m The article goes on to list the possible health effects, just about going to reject them outright over this controversy. BPA is coming everything nobody wants to have: heart disease, effects on memory at us from all sides, it seems, so I’m going to keep studying the and learning, breast cancer, asthma, male impotence, and a bunch issue and reporting. In the meantime, I’ll think fondly of my Uncle of other reproductive undesirables. By this time you are wondering, Steve, who drinks a 30-pack of Schaefer cans every week. He’s 94 as am I, if we should keep drinking canned beer. Consider this: years old. Cans accounted for 53.2% of the beer market in the U.S. in 2012, according to the Beer Institute. Right now the packaging industry doesn’t have a good replacement for BPA in its can liners. So what’s going on? ABOUT JACK KENNY There are two schools of thought, as you can guess. On one side is Jack Kenny has been writing The the FDA, which says that BPA is okay, at least for now. In an article Beer Column for The Connecticut WRITE TO HIM published in February of this year, Mother Jones writer Beverage Journal since 1995. [email protected]

20 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL April 2015 See www.thebeveragejournal.com for online product access BEVERAGEJOURNAL online new look

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MONTEFALCO SOARING The once-sleepy Umbrian wine region Montefalco and its signature grape Sagrantino are on a tear. Data at the inaugural “Anteprima” event revealed that in the last 15 years, production of Montefalco Sagrantino has more than tripled. In 2014 alone, 3.5 million bottles of Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG and Montefalco Rosso DOC were sold, resulting in a revenue of £100 million, the highest number to date. According to research by the Edmund Mach foundation, vineyard acreage in the DOCG area increased ﬁ vefold since 2000, going from 122 to 650 acres, while the number of bottles produced per year spiked from 666,000 to 1.5 million today. These increases in production have led to a 3% increase in employment opportunities and a 17% increase in tourism to the area. The Sagrantino grape had all but disappeared by the 1970s, but a few committed producers in Montefalco resurrected it. Since achieving DOCG status in 1992, the region has seen a massive transformation.

BLEND NATION? 41% HOW TO SAY JUGGERNAUT of all new wines on Yes, America’s current the market last year IN FRENCH: ROSÉ generation of American wine were red blends For the 11th consecutive year, exports drinkers has been raised on of rosé wines from Provence to the varietal wines. And in fact, good ol’ U.S. grew at double-digit rates in Chardonnay remains America’s most 2014, climbing 29% on volume and popular wine, according to Nieslen increasing 38% on value according to sales fi gures from 2014. But what the the CIVP/Provence Wine Council. comes after Chardonnay these days? Here in the U.S., the trend is even Cabernet Sauvignon is next, and then steeper. Retail sales of imported rosé Pinot Grigio. And right on those grape- wines priced at $12+/bottle grew by named wines’ heels: Red Blends. 41% on volume and 53% on value in Red Blend Power Brands: Recent Nielsen fi gures confi rm that Apothic, Cupcake Red Velvet and Ménage à Trois 2014. This is compared to respective U.S-made red blends have become rates of 1.0% and 3.3% for our total table legitimately the hottest wine category in also decreased. Cabernet Sauvignon wine. In addition, the average price per our market, growing 11.7% by volume in was a winner, however, growing 9.5% bottle in this category rose to $16.83, a 2014. An even more compelling fi gure: in 2014. sign that “consumers are seeking out 41% of all new wines on the market On the import side, sales of wines premium rosé—a segment in last year were red blends—which from Spain, Chile and Argentina slipped, which Provence continues to likely will lead merchants to continue to but Portugal swelled 9.9% by volume be the leader,” said Francois devote even more prime shelf space to and 13.4% by value. And, according to Millo, director of the council. red blends. Nielsen Senior VP Danny Nielsen, Millennials appear to be driving And it can still get Brager notes, however, that unlike the growth in Portugal and are also the better for Provence: The the Moscato trend, red blends do not biggest fans of Greek, Austrian and plentiful 2014 vintage appear to be attracting new consumers; South African wine. was “a blissful dream- rather, the blends are being purchased On fi nal takeaway: the fi ne wine come-true for Provençal at the expense of varietal wines. market is creeping upscale. The vintners,” according to Sales of Merlot were down in 2014, average price for a 750ml bottle of wine Michael Romano, importer though not as much as Shiraz (-14.5% in Nielsen-measured stores hit a record of Maison Belle Claire, from by volume). Riesling and Zinfandel $9.41 in 2014. Côtes de Provence. ■

22 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL April 2015 See www.thebeveragejournal.com for online product access SERVINGUP

CREATIVE IDEAS CHRISTIAN’S 382 THAMES STREET #1 AFTER TOUGH TIMES guest columnist BRISTOL, RI CHRISTOPHER ALMEIDA

BY CHRISTOPHER ALMEIDA month.” Then there are the drinks. Break out the blenders and work on a frozen It has officially been spring for almost two drink or two, maybe try out a swizzle or tiki weeks now. Yet, I bet there are still mounds of cocktail on the menu… everyone loves to see snow to be seen. Hopefully, none of them are ice being smashed with a mallet. Whatever it occupying precious parking. It’s been a tough takes to catch some attention and keep our winter and folks are itching to get out and patrons engaged. about. Many of us now need to figure how to Then there is always that point in the summer recoup some of that lost winter revenue. We when folks are looking to escape the heat. also cannot just hope that available parking Get your HVAC system checked out early in and cleared sidewalks will bring our patrons the season. Making sure the temperature is rushing back in. comfortable is as important as your food and Christian’s, a wood- The Farmer's Almanac was pretty right on fired grille located in the heart of drinks being on point. about this winter, and now also calls for downtown Bristol, is all about big flavor, Giving people a place to escape the heat with wood grilling, creative interpretations of spring and summer to be warmer and drier some wi-fi access never hurts either. I know classics like wood-fired chicken wings and than normal. This means there will be a wood-fired apple tarts — and innovative it can get annoying at times for servers, but a great summer season for all of the coastal house cocktails, with names like Worker cold beer while tweaking spreadsheets can go Bee and Jazz Flute. venues, which could mean an even slower a long way. It’s better to see a laptop on the than normal summer in the city. What’s to bar than to have an empty stool. HOUSE MIXOLOGIST: PJ Ferreira be done? And never forget the lighting or the music. COCKTAIL: El Bandito Many rely on Facebook and Twitter to Are your playlists diverse and suitable to the promote their specials. Yet what will set your RECIPE: Rinse rocks glass with 1/4 oz. environment and season? Service, vibe and venue apart? Putting together a program to Del Maguey Mezcal Vida by swirling in attention to detail will set you apart. Dial into glass or two sprays with atomizer. Mix: host parties, creating a schedule of monthly your own unique vibe. Ask yourself: “Why • 2 oz. Espolon Blanco Tequila events, charity events, wine, beer and spirit would I eat or drink here if it’s beautiful • 1 oz. juice of wood-charred grapefruit tastings focused toward your guests to catch out? What would make me sacrifice a few (cut a grapefruit in half, char it on a their attention are just a few ideas. wood grill, then juice) hours of fresh air and sunshine to an indoor If your venue has a television, trivia nights • 1/2 oz. house ancho chile-agave venue? What are the irresistible offerings I syrup based around the showing of a cult TV show can’t live without?” • 1/2 oz. St. Germain Elderflower could be a cool way to draw customers in and liqueur in a shaker with ice Creativity can be the cure here. Thinking keep them there longer. But if you do have outside of the box and trying new ideas is Shake until chilled. Strain over fresh ice TVs, during the daytime try and turn them and garnish with grapefruit peel. not something to be afraid of; it may be the off, unless there is a game on. Watching the Recipe for ancho chile agave syrup: Take only answer. news during the day can be a downer. Fully 8 oz. water and 2 dried ancho chiles, stemmed and seeded. Boil for 4 minutes. creating an environment where people can Strain and add 8 oz. agave nectar. escape for even a short time, night or day, ABOUTCHRISTOPHER ALMEIDA Christopher Almeida has been working in the can be priceless. service industry for almost ten years. He is the El Bandito “gets its depth from the juice How about an amateur cocktail competition? 2015 President of the United States Bartenders’ Guild Rhode Island Chapter, the photographer of the charred grapefruit and notes of Revive your mailing lists to keep guests and market representative for The Rhode Island smoke and earthiness from agave and informed with a newsletter featuring events, Beverage Journal and works a small brand from chile, rounded with floral and citrus,” Barbados called Cockspur Rum. Christopher has says Ferreira. employees and maybe even a “guest of the crafted his work life to meld all that he enjoys.

April 2015 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL 23 COCKTAILCORNER

WARMING UP, COOLING DOWN

armth of the sun…check. Snow melting…check. Birds chirping…check. Margaritas a-mixing… well, what are you waiting for—Cinco de Mayo? National Margarita Day was actually back in WFebrurary, so it’s high time to catch up with this colorful, ﬂ exible cocktail menu staple. The Margarita-esque recipes below keep tequila “Battle”- in the picture, but with a few twists. tested Vampiro

ROASTED JALAPEÑO MARGARITA ZARZA 2 oz Don Julio Blanco (or tequila blanco) This Roasted Jalapeño Margarita is ex- The Zarza is a sweeter approach to the 1 oz fresh Lemon Juice tremely simple to make, and highlights Margarita, adding not only agave syrup 1 oz Purely Syrup Ginger Root 1 dash Celery Bitters the combination of sweet and savory. into the mix, but blackberry liqueur as ½ oz Juice blend of Beet, Celery The mild spiciness of the roasted jalapeño well. The smooth ﬂ avor of the Sauza 901 and Carrot mixer with the slight sweetness of your fa- makes a real difference in this drink. vorite blue agave blanco tequila makes for Add tequila, lemon juice, syrup and bitters a truly enjoyable Margarita experience. 2 oz Sauza 901 into mixing tin, add ice, and shake for 1 oz Agave syrup approximately 10 seconds. Strain into 1 oz fresh Lemon Juice 1 part Powell & Mahoney Roasted highball glass over new crushed ice. To Splash Blackberry liqueur Jalapeno Margarita Mixer ﬁ nish, pour juice blend on top and garnish Blackberries 1 part 100% Blue Agave Blanco Tequila with skin of celery stalk.

Combine all ingredients, Shake and strain over ice into a Margarita excluding blackberry or Old Fashioned glass. Garnish with a SPICY RASPBERRY MARGARITA liqueur. Shake well. lime wedge. A Margarita with Tabasco may sound a bit Strain and serve over daunting, but don’t let this spicy addition crushed ice in a rocks fool you. Using the velvety sweetness of glass. Add blackberry Roasted liqueur on top. Garnish Chambord, this Margarita ends up being Jalapeño a balance of sugar and spice. Margarita with fresh blackberries.

1½ oz el Jimador Reposado VAMPIRO ½ oz Chambord 1 oz Sprite The Vampiro is a unique, vegetal twist 2 oz Sour Mix on a Margarita using tequila, lemon 3 dashes Tabasco sauce juice, ginger root syrup, celery bitters

and a juice blend made up of beet, In a shaker ﬁ lled with ice, celery and carrot juices. Created by add ingredients Trent Simpson of La Urbana in San and shake to mix. Francisco, this cocktail was the winner at Pour into Margarita glass the Battle of Tequileras in San Francisco rimmed with spicy salt. in January. Garnish with a lime wedge.

24 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL April 2015 See www.thebeveragejournal.com for online product access COCKTAILCORNER KOSHER FOCUS

WARMING UP, PASSOVER ith Passover on the BEGINS of the grains that are prohibited RD calendar this month, APRIL 3 AT on Passover, namely barley, oats, COOLING DOWN SUNDOWN Wit’s time again for rye, spelt and wheat. However, the the perennial question: What makes yeast can be derived from various a wine kosher for Passover? Kosher types of fruits or sugar. Most, but not wine, of course, must be created under a all, kosher wines are in fact kosher for armth of the sun…check. Snow melting…check. rabbi’s supervision, and be handled only by Passover. Additionally, all wines exported Birds chirping…check. Margaritas a-mixing… Sabbath-observant Jewish males. Kosher for from Israel are kosher for Passover. well, what are you waiting for—Cinco de Mayo? Passover certification, however, like food, A “P” on the label lets buyers hinges on avoiding all things connected know that the wine is not National Margarita Day was actually back in to bread. Specifically, the yeast used to just kosher, but kosher for WFebrurary, so it’s high time to catch up with this colorful, fl exible ferment the grapes must not come from any Passover as well. cocktail menu staple. The Margarita-esque recipes below keep tequila “Battle”- in the picture, but with a few twists. tested Vampiro SHILOH LEGEND 2010 RECANATI ‘YASMIN’ GRINALDA KOSHER VINHO VERDE Shiloh’s “Legend” is a blend of Petite Sirah, RED MEVUSHAL 2011 The 2013 Grinalda Kosher from Aveleda hails Petite Verdot and Shiraz, with each varietal Part of the Recanti “Yasmin” series from the Vinho Verde region of ROASTED JALAPEÑO MARGARITA ZARZA 2 oz Don Julio Blanco (or tequila blanco) aged separately in French oak of wine, this red from the Jezreel Portugal. The grapes are pressed 1 oz fresh Lemon Juice This Roasted Jalapeño Margarita is ex- The Zarza is a sweeter approach to the barrels. Once blended, the wine Valley in Israel is specifi cally pro- at low temperatures, the must is tremely simple to make, and highlights Margarita, adding not only agave syrup 1 oz Purely Syrup Ginger Root 1 dash Celery Bitters is further aged for an addi- duced to be “mevushal”—keeping clarifi ed and fermented at con- the combination of sweet and savory. into the mix, but blackberry liqueur as ½ oz Juice blend of Beet, Celery tional eight months in French oak. it kosher regardless of who serves trolled temperatures, and the wine The mild spiciness of the roasted jalapeño well. The smooth fl avor of the Sauza 901 and Carrot Hailing from the Judean Hills, it. Made from 80% Cabernet is fi ltered and cold-stabilized mixer with the slight sweetness of your fa- makes a real difference in this drink. Legend is a deep red, opaque Sauvignon and 20% Merlot, this before bottling. This blend of vorite blue agave blanco tequila makes for Add tequila, lemon juice, syrup and bitters color, with black fruit aromas supple, medium-bodied wine native grapes—40% Trajadura, a truly enjoyable Margarita experience. 2 oz Sauza 901 into mixing tin, add ice, and shake for and a rich earthy, fruity and with fl avors of ripe red berry 30% Loureiro, 20% Arinto and 1 oz Agave syrup approximately 10 seconds. Strain into spicy palate. fruit is a wonderful all-occasion 10% Azal—yields a young and 1 oz fresh Lemon Juice 1 part Powell & Mahoney Roasted highball glass over new crushed ice. To red that will complement a wide vibrant wine, with a delicate Splash Blackberry liqueur Jalapeno Margarita Mixer fi nish, pour juice blend on top and garnish array of dishes, especially meat fruity aroma. Ideal with seafood Blackberries 1 part 100% Blue Agave Blanco Tequila with skin of celery stalk. and poultry. and salad.

Combine all ingredients, Shake and strain over ice into a Margarita excluding blackberry or Old Fashioned glass. Garnish with a SPICY RASPBERRY MARGARITA royalwine.com palmbay.com tri-vin.com liqueur. Shake well. lime wedge. A Margarita with Tabasco may sound a bit SRP: $39.99 SRP: $11.99 SRP: $25 Strain and serve over daunting, but don’t let this spicy addition crushed ice in a rocks fool you. Using the velvety sweetness of glass. Add blackberry Roasted liqueur on top. Garnish Chambord, this Margarita ends up being Jalapeño a balance of sugar and spice. Margarita with fresh blackberries. CARMEL SELECT RECANTI DIAMOND SERIES Currently the best-selling Israeli wine in CHARDONNAY 2012 1½ oz el Jimador Reposado Israel, the 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon and This 100% Chardonnay wine comes from hillside ½ oz Chambord VAMPIRO the 2013 Sauvignon Blanc expressions vineyards in Israel’s Galilee district, at an altitude of 1 oz Sprite The Vampiro is a unique, vegetal twist of Carmel Select both received 89 points 2,500 feet above sea level. The wine is fermented 2 oz Sour Mix on a Margarita using tequila, lemon 3 dashes Tabasco sauce from Wine Enthusiast. The Cabernet in small French oak barrels and aged sur lie for juice, ginger root syrup, celery bitters Sauvignon has aromas of black currant nine months. It is then mixed with yeast every three and berry fruit. The Sauvignon Blanc is weeks, enhancing creaminess and complexity. and a juice blend made up of beet, In a shaker fi lled with ice, aromatic with tropical fruit notes, a back Aromas of tropical fruit, caramel and hazelnut lead celery and carrot juices. Created by add ingredients drop of cut grass and a clean, citrusy fi nish. into a full-bodied palate and long, smooth fi nish. Trent Simpson of La Urbana in San and shake to mix. Francisco, this cocktail was the winner at Pour into Margarita glass the Battle of Tequileras in San Francisco rimmed with spicy salt. royalwine.com palmbay.com in January. Garnish with a lime wedge. SRP: $10.99 SRP: $16.99

April 2015 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL 25 WINE BUZZ

Zac Posen, leading women’s fashion designer, teamed up with Ecco Domani for JOINING THE RED BLEND WAVE: his fi rst ever STAGS’ LEAP WINERY ‘THE INVESTOR’ wine label design. No price point is exempt from the fast-evolving, steam-gathering trend of the Red Blend. Stags’ Leap Winery’s new contender, The Investor, takes aim at the luxury end of the spectrum, tapping into ZAC POSEN GIVES another trend: $25+ wines continuing to come ECCO DOMANI A back in popularity. The Investor 2012 blends Petite STYLISH MAKEOVER Sirah, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, yielding a Acclaimed fashion designer Zac Posen complex, full-bodied red that is right at home as a will be dressing-up Ecco Domani for steakhouse wine and ready to appeal to consumers summer. Posen, whose designs are with high wine involvement. Available nationwide frequently found on red carpets as well for $53. stagsleap.com as catwalks, is bringing his signature style to the Pinot Grigio bottle, which will be available nationwide starting in May. This easy-drinking Pinot Grigio from the delle Venezie region of NEW ROSÉ WINES FROM northern Italy melds citrus and fl oral THE NORTH AND THE SOUTH... OF ITALY? aromas with tropical fruit fl avors to Pink is hot. So hot that suppliers who previously create a crisp, refreshing wine. SRP stuck to red and white are happily expanding their $10.99. eccodomani.com style palettes. And while Provence arguably remains the gold standard for crisp rosé, the region certainly holds no monopoly—dry pink wines are made well everywhere these days. Recently joining the pink parade for the first time: Mezzacorona 2014 (SRP $8.99), made from 100% Lagrein grapes, locally grown along the Adige Valley north of Trento. And RUFFINO JOINS THE Sicily’s Stemmari 2014 (SRP $9.99) ‘GRAN SELEZIONE’ TIER is produced from 100% Nero d’Avola, With the 2010 vintage, Ruffino has re-created which is cultivated on sandy soils Riserva Ducale Oro as the winery’s first entry in the Ragusa province. Of course, in the Chianti Classico consorzio’s “Gran the truth about rosé is that terroir Selezione” classification that debuted takes a backseat to style; crisp, in 2014. Designed to distinguish these fruity and refreshing is dry rosé’s Tuscan reds as the ultimate expression of calling—and that can be attained Sangiovese (80% minimum is required), from a multitude of red grapes, the new classification represents just 10% all over the globe. Interestingly, of all Chianti Classico production. An these two new Italian pink wines eligible wine must be produced entirely are labeled “rosé,” not rosato. from winery-owned vineyards; be aged Chalk that one up for the French? a minimum of 30 months in oak; and be gruppomezzacorona.it approved by a tasting panel. SRP $42. stemmari.it ruffino.com

26 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL April 2015 See www.thebeveragejournal.com for online product access P18088-PriceBookTrade_Ver2.indd 1

©2015 Palm Bay International, Boca Raton, FL New Package • NewScrew Caps It’s anewmoon • NewSauvignon Blanc 3/9/15 1:14PM here’s no arguing with the numbers: high-end and super- premium tequilas have never before been as popular and T successful in the U.S. Just-released 2014 sales data compiled by the Distilled that customers are more often open to higher-priced tequila Spirits Council (DISCUS) reveal what most retailers and expressions. “We’ve seen an increase in our price points many marketers already knew: higher-priced tequilas have toward more of the premium and super-premium and a caught fire. Super-premium (SRP $30+) brands shot up nearly 15% in volume, while high-end premium ($18- OPPOSITE PAGE, LEFT TO RIGHT: Blue agave, seen here in Patrón’s $30) and premium ($12-$18) grew at the same healthy but fields, is now a common baseline for quality, prompting suppliers to more modest 3.7% rate. So strong is the top end of the emphasize other key techniques to stand apart. DeLeon is one of many putting extra care into barrel regimens. Herradura hosts a big event for each market now that super-premium accounts for about 40% year’s Colección de la Casa release; the limited-release project is geared of supplier revenue in the tequila category. yielding fine cask-aged reposado tequila for sipping, not margaritas. Sauza 901 has both a celebrity founder (Justin Timberlake) and triple distillation as Brian Bowden, a VP overseeing spirits, beer, beverages points of distinction. Roca Patrón is one of a handful of tequilas produced and tobacco for the California-based BevMo! stores, notes using the ancient “tahona” stone-grinding technique.

TEQUILA ON FIRE

Wood treatments are becoming a hotbed of experimentation among high-end producers. While regular Patrón is aged in a mix of new and used barrels, the Roca line rests in single-use bourbon barrels. BELOW: Herradura is among a growing number of producers to add a luxury or limited bottlings to enhance the entire line; the Selección Suprema Extra Añejo and Colección de la Casa tequilas top the portfolio. Bottom right: Larry Schwartz, President, North America, Diageo and Sean Combs hope to replicate the success of Cîroc.

decrease in mixtos. During the holidays, for instance, whether for gifting or personal consumption, some of our best SKUs were between $75 and $125 in terms of sales.” Those people in charge of producing, “Different expressions, premiumization branding and packaging tequila have a and personalization—those are the few ideas why the market is changing. “Different expressions, premiumization trends, along with craft cocktails, that and personalization—those are the trends, can be said to be driving the discovery of along with craft cocktails, that can be quality tequila.” — Ann Stickler, Brown-Forman said to be driving the discovery of quality tequila,” says Ann Stickler, SVP, Managing Director for Brown-Forman’s Herradura, El and three in the the Luxury line; a joven white oak. Tres Agaves ages their añejo in Jimador and Antiguo tequilas. mixture of blanco and añejo at $150, a Woodford Reserve barrels for 18 months. “Overall, consumers want to drink cask-strength extra añejo at $350 and the Corzo points to triple distillation as cru- better,” says Andrea Sengara, Director, $850 Leona, finished in Sauternes barrels. cial to their añejo being “the fullest, most Tequilas at Diageo, where Don Julio was Other high-end brands have joined the complex expression of modern tequila.” joined last year by ultra-premium DeLeon. fray. Not surprisingly, with every upscale Baron “Platinum” is another tequila brand “They’re more interested in a quality story expression sharing a common denominator that is distilled three times, “resulting in and brands that have credentials. We see of being 100% agave, communicating an extract that gets cleaner and cleaner,” that across Scotch and whiskey and we points of distinction often involve other eliminating any off odors or tastes. see it in tequila. It’s truly a beautiful spirit aspects of production, notably piña Casa Dragones Joven takes a differ- to be appreciated.” preparation and distillation techniques, ent route to distinction, employing cre- blending, aging and wood treatments. ative blending on top of multiple distilla- PRICEY, BUT LED For example, Terlato Wines recently tion and “ultra-modern” filtration. Their BY QUALITY added the $45-$65 super-premium Riazul twist: hand-finishing their silver tequila DeLeon is a prime example of how tequila’s to their Artisan Spirits portfolio. The añe- with five-year-old extra añejo. Casa price limits are being pushed. Now with jo spends two years in French Limousin Dragones then goes into a handmade two lines priced at the top of the category, oak, teasing hints of caramel, honey and bottle of lead-free crystal, individually there are the three expressions in the vanilla out of the barrels. Lunazul’s Prim- engraved with the brand’s “pepita” signa- ultra-premium line retailing for $60 - 70, ero añejo is aged 18 months in American ture design element.

TEQUILA ON FIRE

As packaging goes, extra credit is ers are rediscovering the surely due to 1800 Tequila, whose craft of tequila, getting newest offering, 1800 Colección, interested in añejo and an extra añejo, comes in hand- reposado and exploring numbered bottles, within a custom- the other expressions. designed pewter decanter designed It’s a joy to be having by artist Gary Baseman. The design the conversation about is inspired by the tragic love story tequila and quality.” between a Mexican warrior and a She notes that while magical mermaid. Only 40 bottles Herradura’s Selección Suprema have been made available—at a suggested extra añejo, one of the stalwarts of the price tag of $2,000. category and retailing near $400, is clear- Two-grand is a bit steep for most ly meant for the connoisseur, the Colec- “This is an exciting time for the extra aficionados, but a sure sign that cion line is generally priced under $100 anejo category,” says Avion’s president consumers are in fact willing to trade and allows the tequila aficionado the op- Jenna Fagnan. “We launched our Reserva way up came last year with the launch of portunity to step up. “But even the fact 44 last year and have seen an incredible Patrón Spirits’ Roca Patrón line, with a that people are regularly paying $40 for reception. Both tequila consumers as 90 proof silver, 84 proof reposado and 88 a bottle is so encouraging’” adds Stickler. well as whiskey consumers are drawn to proof añejo, Roca retails between $69- “And now, whenever people start to take the complexity and depth of a good extra $89 and is made using the traditional the next step in exploration in the cat- añejo tequila.” “tahona” stone-ground as well as aging egory, there’s something there for them.” in single-use bourbon barrels, unlike the BARREL POWER & BEYOND standard Patrón which uses a mix of new Among current initiatives, Avion is roll- and used barrels. Two-grand is a ing out a by-the-barrel program for retailers “The Roca roll-out has far exceeded bit steep for most with their reposado expression. By-the-bar- our expectations, and our expectations rel programs, quite common among whis- are usually very high because new aficionados, but key producers, are fairly new to the tequila products are so few and far between for a sure sign that world. Herradura has for a while been in- us,” says Patrón Chief Marketing Officer consumers are in viting on-premise customers to select their Lee Applbaum. He attributes the success fact willing to trade own barrels, a program with a premium at- to Patrón’s brand equity and the growing way up. tached. Recently, some retail customers are consumer appreciation in general for asking about añejo barrels. “It’s a very per- higher-priced spirits. “The category is sonal thing that allows them to be part of growing with a lot of new entrants, and the experience. What a great trend to have the interest in artisanal, hand-crafted “Extra añejo has tremendous oppor- customers coming to us to have that experi- spirits is good for us in tequila,” he notes. tunity to grow,” notes a spokesperson for ence—you wouldn’t have seen that five to Proximo Spirits, which now includes Jose ten years ago,” says Stickler. DEMAND FACTOR Cuervo, 1800 and Gran Centenario in All these evolutions are only the be- As tequila consumers look to broaden its portfolio. According to Nielsen track- ginning, say many in the tequila business. their palates, brands like Roca, with a ing, extra añejo has grown by about 8%in “The tequila market in U.S. was, different production method and higher volume last year. 1800 XA is fairly new and still is underdeveloped, especially proof, become more appealing. Three to the market, but producers in the higher segment,” says years ago Herradura launched a limited don’t see it as just tequila, Jose Hermosillo, founder release program that foresaw just such a but rather “more as a fine of Casa Noble Tequila. “In level of interest, called Colección de la brown spirit for special oc- the super-premium tequilas Casa, in which reposados are finished in casions,” according to the growth is almost 500% different types of casks (in 2014 they used Proximo spokesperson. since 2002. I believe we Scotch whiskey barrels). That places extra añejos still have a ways to go.” Brown-Forman’s Stickler says the in competition against The versatility of tequila limited expressions sell out, encourag- high-end Cognacs and fits many drink occa- ing further experimentation at the high Scotches, with produc- sions, he notes—shoot- end. “The category is really turning to ers consciously targeting ing, sipping, classic and more premium offerings and as consum- those luxury consumers. contemporary cocktails. Date:3-9-2015 12:40 PM| Client:WT| Studio Artist: Matthew Torres / Matthew Torres| Printed At: None Job number: WILD0190 | WILD0190_AH_Master_Distiller_FP_BMG_April_2015_v1_300md_sw3_PP.indd T: 8.25” x 10.875”, L: 7.5” x 10.375”, B:8.75” x 11.375”, Gutter: A.Gutter, Bind: Perfect Bind, Linescreen: A.LS, MD: 300%, Color: None Notes: pdfxla

Jimmy Russell does things his way. So thirty years ago, when he first mixed bourbon with honey, the idea was almost unheard of. But today his premium blend of Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey and pure honey is being used in cocktails all across the country. And Jimmy wouldn’t have it any other way.

JIMMY RUSSELL MASTER DISTILLER WILD TURKEY® BOURBON

Casa Noble, now in Constellation’s portfolio of spirits, has an edge: it has been certified organic, and also has been pushing other “green” practices. Beam Suntory’s Tres Generaciones has done well in the organic space created by high-end specialty bars and hotels ★ ★ since its certification in 2012. “There is NOT A MARGARITA a passionate and growing niche of places that are focusing on that,” says Gary Ross, Beam Suntory Senior Director of While high-end tequila has increasingly Tequila, who oversees Sauza, 901, Tres gained traction as a fine sipping Generaciones and El Tesoro. beverage, bartenders are still inclined Ross echoes what other tequila to tinker. Casamigos star power is accentuated by the fact marketers highlight: more educated that founders George Clooney and Rande Gerber One of them, Chris Simmons, consumers interested in well-crafted sourced the tequila themselves, trying more than General Manager at The Patio on 700 samples, leading to the tagline “Brought to you spirits willing to pay more for better by those who drink it.” Goldfinch in San Diego, started and different. “Plus there are a lot more something he now calls the Ocho players in super premium using more Project, inspired by the makers of the interesting techniques,” he adds. unusual single-estate and vintage brand Sauza has increased its attention to The power of more pricey tequilas but interested in seeing how different the recently-acquired 901, focusing on is just beginning to emerge, and aging techniques would alter the flavor. the connection to brand founder and there are still many possibilities for Simmons connected with Tomas pop star Justin Timberlake. Celebrity developing new expressions. Says Estes and Carlos Camarena, co-owners tequila, with Sean Combs involved in, Avión’s Fagnan, “We are eager to see of Ocho to get their approval before is part of the category’s curiosity factor tequila become a greater force in the aging one of the blancos in five-liter new lately, as with Casamigos, founded by spirits industry well beyond North American Oak barrels. His goal: to craft a entrepreneur Rande Gerber with partner America, and we sense it’s coming. tequila with oak-driven characteristics (as George Clooney. The time is certainly right to be in the opposed to original Tequila Ocho aged “When George and I decided to ultra-premium tequila business.” ■ in used barrels). Simmons serves the create our own tequila, we did it out two different styles of tequila side-by-side of our desire to have the best tast- for guests to experience first-hand the ing, smoothest tequila for us to drink TEQUILA AGE differences the aging process imparts. and share with friends,” says Gerber. DESIGNATIONS “I wanted to focus on one particular “Word started to spread and we re- component, the aging process, since alized that others were looking for  Blanco (aka silver) is clear some producers use brand new oak something similar. Consumers know and unaged. and some use barrels several times, like what they like and appreciate the  Joven (aka gold or abocado) Ocho,” says Simmons. He removed time, effort and patience we took to spends several months in samples at 14, 28 and then 42 days, and create Casamigos. To us, Casamigos is tanks before bottling. serves them paired with reposado, añejo a lifestyle brand.”  Reposado (meaning rested) is the first definitive level of and extra añejo Ochos. “They show that While many smaller brands aging; these tequilas rest in if you start in the exact same place and continue to aim for the on-premise as wood (usually oak) barrels for change the next step, you end up in an a place to break in, the move to higher two to 12 months. entirely different place,” he says. end means greater retail involvement.  Añejo (meaning “old” or Diageo’s Don Julio has done very well “mature”) applies to tequilas in the on-premise, where the brand aged at least one year in has been focused for some time, says oak barrels; these tend to be Sengara. “That eventually set strong darker, smoother and more off-premise growth once scale was complex. built,” she explains. “We’ve definitely  Extra Añejo tequila has rested seen the off-premise start to pick up in at least three years in barrel. the past two years.” RANDE GERBER AND GEORGE CLOONEY PHOTOGRAPH BY ANDREW SOUTHAM PHOTOGRAPH BY RANDE GERBER AND GEORGE CLOONEY

a FAMILY DISTILLATE Heaven Hill Celebrates 80 Years of Crafting Whiskey & Building Brands

By Kristen Bieler

eaven Hill is marking 1970. “We have an immense range of Left: Heaven Hill Brands leadership today th includes Kate (Shapira) Latts; Max L. Shapira; their 80 birthday in an brands which we’re building for the Allan N. Latts; and Andy L. Shapira. unexpected way, by changing future, so our new name really describes Top: Heaven Hill’s 80 years of history includes over 7,000,000 barrels of American whiskey. their name. While the switch what we do today.” Hfrom “Heaven Hill Distilleries” to “Heaven Hill Brands” might not seem like a huge Betting on Bourbon departure, it does reflect the dramatic way The five Shapira brothers made no small in order to produce alcohol for the war in which this family-driven company has gamble in founding Heaven Hill Distilleries effort. Yet their commitment to American evolved over the last eight decades. in Bardstown, Kentucky in 1935, on the whiskey production paid off eventually, “We are still heavily in the distillery heels of Prohibition and in the thick of as Heaven Hill went on in subsequent business, but we are about so much more the Great Depression. Their first brand, decades to become a leading bourbon today than American whiskey,” says Max Bourbon Falls, was just up and running distiller, particularly with the introduction Shapira, President, who has worked for when they were forced to shut down, along of Evan Williams in the 1950s (which the company his father founded since with many other distilleries during WWII, remains the company’s flagship brand).

1935 1946 ’70s ’80s “Heavenhill Springs” Earl Beam leaves Max L. Shapira Elijah Craig 12YO—the first distillery is founded by the Beam Company joins the family “Small Batch” bourbon—is Bardstown-area investors to succeed his business. Parker introduced. Acquisitions and the five Shapira cousin, Harry Beam succeeds include Burnett’s Gin, Henry brothers; the company has Beam, as Heaven his father Earl as McKenna Bourbon, Harwood 12 employees and Bourbon Hill’s Master Master Distiller. Canadian Whisky. Falls is their first label. Distiller. heaven hill

nati to work for Heaven Hill Hpnotiq Liqueur, acquired in 2003, “paved the way for the future of in 2001, she admits that, “like the company.” a lot of people at the time, I thought Heaven Hill was all about American whiskey, but quickly saw that there was Cross-Category so much more to the com- Expansion pany.” Having just acquired With a small team of decision Christian Brothers—the number three makers, things move quickly, giving brandy in the country—the company Heaven Hill the ability to stay ahead of soon embarked on a period of acquisition trends and bring new products to market and innovation. efficiently. “Innovation is the lifeblood of An early leader in the flavored our industry, and it usually doesn’t come vodka world with Burnett’s, Heaven from the big companies,” says Andy. Hill released best-seller after best-seller The successful launch of Blackheart with offerings like Citrus, Raspberry and Rum in 2010 inspired the acquisition of Orange. “I remember my dad saying we Admiral Nelson, the country’s second- bestselling spiced rum, in 2011, making Heaven Hill’s modern era has been marked by needed to try vanilla cautiously. It felt expansion and diversification. Top: Seeking inventive like a real risk at the time, which is funny Heaven Hill a major player in the rum ways to support the brand portfolio, the company in retrospect,” says Kate. The company category. Blackheart is a higher-proof rum, recently opened “Heaven Hill” at the KFC Yum! Center in Louisville, KY. Above: The firm grew to was ahead of its time with Sour Apple and with a bolder flavor profile and has been become a leader in flavored vodka, after starting with Coconut, too. propelled by the ever-strong rum-and-cola the trio of Citrus, Raspberry and Orange. But the defining moment of the trend. “One of the most fun things we do is company’s culture shift was the purchase create a brand from scratch,” Kate shares. of Hpnotiq in 2003. “We had to learn how “When you create the name, build the Their passion for bourbon never to do so many things differently,” Kate equity, figure out how to best support a wavered, in spite of the fickle nature of recalls, as they had never before worked brand, it feels like your child.” consumer drinking habits. In the midst on “a high-energy, on-premise promotion of the current American whiskey craze, brand with a tidal wave of momentum Bourbon Comes it’s easy to forget that bourbon has “not behind it.” In the early days, just trying to Full Circle always been successful,” reminds Andy figure out how many T-shirts to order was Few companies were better positioned to Shapira, Director, Sales Analysis/Western perplexing (“Should we order four or five take advantage of the American whiskey Division Sales Manager, referring to the thousand? In 2004 we ordered a million,” renaissance than Heaven Hill, with its category’s steep decline in the 1970s Kate remembers). cache of historic brands and vast stocks through the early 1990s. “We survived by “Hpnotiq taught us how to do of aged bourbon. Looking back, how did developing interesting offerings in many promotions,” says Andy. “It paved the one of the worst-performing categories other categories. We have skin in the game way for the future of the company. reemerge as the fastest growing distilled with every trend in the industry, which Without that brand, there would spirit today? “About 15 years ago, we in has allowed us to compete against bigger have been no Pama or Canton,” the the industry got our act together with players.” company’s successful pomegranate and the launch of single-barrel and small- recently-acquired ginger liqueur brands. batch releases, better packaging and Change, Accelerated “We have been focused on a very flavors,” says Max. “The consumer today The third generation of Shapiras brought vibrant section of the flavored liqueur demands all these things.” Heaven a thirst for innovation and trend-setting. category, which captures the enthusiasm Hill helped pioneer this trend with the When Kate (Shapira) Latts, VP of Mar- and interest of bartenders, which release of Elijah Craig 12 Year Old in keting, and her husband, Allan, COO, then translates into off-premise sales,” 1986, the first “small batch” bourbon moved back to Kentucky from Cincin- Kate describes. on the market.

’90s ’00s 2010-2015 A rush of line extensions (Elijah Hpnotiq (2003), Pama (’05) and Admiral Nelson’s (2011) & Domaine Craig, Evan Williams, Henry Lunazul (’08) added. Heaven Hill de Canton (’14) acquired. Evan McKenna) and new brands named “Distiller of the Year” (’04), Williams Bourbon Experience opens (Burnett’s Vodka, Christian Rittenhouse Rye tops at SF World (’13). Heaven Hill fills its 7 millionth Brothers Brandy, Old Fitzgerald) Spirits competition (’06). Parker’s barrel of American Whiskey (’15). join portfolio; historic Bernheim Heritage Collection debuts 2007. distillery acquired. heaven hill

Heaven Hill’s flavored whis- array of suppliers in his 40-plus years kies continue to grow double in the industry, and never met one digits, and the company has re- that cared more for the people leased a steady stream of premi- they work with. “The Shapira um extensions: Elijah Craig 21 family treats everyone like family. and 23 Year Old, Parker’s Heri- They possess an unusual amount tage Collection, Rittenhouse Elijah Craig of character and integrity,” says Rye—“the darling of the mix- 21YO & 23YO Sparrow. “For example, when ology community,” Kate says— add prestige they run sales incentive trips, to the flagship a wheated bourbon, Larceny, bourbon line the winning sales reps’ entire even unaged whiskey, TryBox, families are invited, including among others. For Kate, the most children. I have never seen any other exciting part about today’s boom is that supplier offer something growth is hitting every segment, not just like that.” The late Executive VP the premium end, and boosting tourism. Harry Shapira worked with his cousin Max Shapira “It’s fascinating to see the types of visi- The More to develop Heaven Hill’s tors we get at our Bourbon Heritage Cen- Things Change… tourism destinations, the Heaven Hill Bourbon ter, from legal drinking age college kids, As different as today’s Heritage Center in Bardstown to young women on ‘girl’s weekends’ to Heaven Hill portfolio (opened 2004) and the Evan Williams Bourbon Experience longtime aficionados.” might appear from the in Louisville (opened 2013). original (and payroll, Size—and Family—Matters which has ballooned from The Shapiras at the helm today navigate 12 employees to 600) the a very different industry landscape than company’s culture remains essentially that of their founders. “You have to be unchanged. “We have always tried to AT A GLANCE so much quicker to market,” says Max. make sure that our employees have jobs “And pay more attention to carving the that are challenging and interesting day Having grown from 12 employees to 600, marketplace into multiple pieces, it is in and day out,” says Max. “And that Heaven Hill Brands is America’s largest much more segmented.” our products are the highest quality. independent, family-owned and operated producer and marketer of distilled spirits. Being smaller than the big suppliers, We are still using the same mash bills Here are some more key facts: and family-run, puts Heaven Hill in an from 80 years ago, and have some of the advantageous position, believes Andy: original stills.” ❖ America’s seventh-largest supplier “We are nimble, and we don’t have to Presiding over the country’s largest of distilled spirits. focus on the quarter—we can think long independent, family-owned producer and ❖ Second-largest inventory of aging term. It also allows us to have consistent marketer of distilled spirits in the country, Kentucky whiskey (nearly 17% of the pricing strategy; our distributors and Max has a considerable amount to be world’s future supply of bourbon). retailers like the fact that they don’t see proud of. Yet he is absolutely certain about end-of-quarter pricing activity with our his greatest accomplishment: “Enticing ❖ Whiskeys are produced at the historic brands that they do with many others.” the third generation of the family to leave Bernheim Distillery, designated Kentucky David Sparrow, VP at RNDC in North their careers and join this business has Distilled Spirits Plant (DSP) #1. Carolina/Virginia, has worked with a vast been my most significant contribution. I ❖ Brands acquired or developed include believe having my son, daughter and son- Burnett’s Vodkas and Gin; Admiral in-law working at Heaven Hill, bringing Nelson’s and Blackheart Rums; Hpnotiq the same passion and commitment to Liqueur; The Christian Brothers brandies; excellence, has ensured our future like PAMA Liqueur; Domaine de Canton nothing else.” n Liqueur; Lunazul Tequila; and Cinerator Hot Cinnamon Flavored Whiskey.

❖ Major whiskey brands: Evan Williams,

As Heaven Hill Brands continues America’s second-largest selling national outreach, two key Bourbon; Elijah Craig, the original Small personnel are Lynn House (left), National Brand Educator Batch Bourbon; and Old Fitzgerald, a focusing on-premise; and Bernie wheated Bourbon with a storied history. Lubbers, American Whiskey Brand Ambassador.

CATEGORYFOCUS

VIN DE FRANCE STEPS UP ANNUAL COMPETITION CONFIRMS NEW CATEGORY’S QUALITY & OFFERS INSIGHT TO TRENDS

BY W. R. TISH

The International Panel - Best Value Vin de France Selection 2015

ometimes, seizing the future  The Wallet — The modern opposite means turning away from the of last century’s iconic collectibles, JUDGING GLOBALLY past. Such is the case with Vin de France wines are clearly the Vin de France (VDF) targeting an identity built on best ABOVE: This year’s Vin de France classification,S which frees producers to value for money. “Best Value Selection” competition source grapes across regional boundaries,  The Mindset — VDF wines represent was the sixth, and took place and to blend (or not blend) based on their freedom, creativity and thoroughly February 11-12 in Paris. Among own stylistic goals not only AOC rules. modern methods; blends and varietals the international panel of 34 Though delayed in its exposure to going where French wine never went, professionals from eight countries were seven Americans: Karen and Americans because until a TTB ruling and packaged to please the eye and be Philip Burkhart, Latitude Wines; in late 2013, Vin de France is shaping up opened now. and Steven Johnson, Market of to be one of the fastest-growing and most Choice; Brad Lewis, ABC Fine notable category launches in the history SETTING THE BAR Wine & Spirits, Geoffrey Pattison, of modern viticulture. An important part of Vin de France’s Wally’s; Bethany Burke Scherline, Consider this: Just five years after identity is defined by having fewer rules, Palm Bay International; and being created, Vin de France wines in fact, strict quality and traceability con- Bernard Sun, Kobrand. already account for 17% of all still wine trols govern production. All growers and exports out of France (Germany, the UK producers operating within the classifica- and China are the biggest customers). tion must register with FranceAgriMer, a out the best examples of this classification, And momentum is building: exports division of the French Ministry of Agri- with the top performers awarded a Gold or increased by 2.5% overall 2014—and culture. This ensures that consumers and Silver medal. 35% outside Europe. retailers can be confident in the prov- The competition helps benchmark The United States currently accounts enance of their product. the growth of the classification [see 2015 for about 3% of the VDF wines that leave Additionally, Vin de France receives Key Figures box] and demonstrates the France, but remains a prime target market valuable independent endorsement confidence and commitment among the because these flexible, fruity wines appeal through an annual competition in producers. The Best Value Selection results to Americans on many levels: February at which wines are evaluated by from 2015 were officially announced in  The Palate — Wines that are fresh, professional judges from key markets. Run mid-March at ProWein, the first of the fruity, accessible, smoother; with a range by trade organization Anivin de France, the wine industry’s cycle of major annual that spans multiple hot categories here. Vin de France “Best Value Selection” picks trade shows. ➥ See the full selection of medal winners at: vindefrancewines.com

VIN DE FRANCE ‘BEST VALUE SELECTION’ 2015 WINNERS Shown here is a sampling of Gold medal winners from this year’s competition. Only 23 Gold medals were awarded in all (6% of total entries), indicating the judges’ high standards; 24% of the 2015 entries earned Silver medals.

Gérard Bertrand 2014 1 “6ème Sens” Belles Vignes 2014 “GSM” 2 (Grenache-Syrah-Marsellan)

3 French Connection 2014 Merlot 1 2 3 4 5 6 Gau 2014 Sauvignon Blanc - 4 Pinot Grigio

5 Jean Berteau Merlot

6 La Châsse 2014 Shiraz-Grenache

7 Fat Bastard Red

8 Le Val 2014 Sauvignon Blanc François Lurton 2014 9 “Fumées Blanches” Rosé

10 Les Rivages Sauvignon Blanc L’Original French Kiss 11 Sauvignon Blanc Pâtisserie 2014 Chardonnay- 12 Muscat

7 8 9 10 11 12 13 13 Temps d’M 2013 Blanc

Based on the 2015 winners, VDF 2015 KEY FIGURES appears especially well-positioned to tap quality and have significant impact in into two hot trends. The first is rosé, with the U.S. market.  28% increase in the number of 23 medal winners. The other is blends; Judge Brad Lewis, Fine Wine Buyer for entries, to 372 wines 21 white medal winners and 15 red were Florida-based ABC Fine Wine & Spirits,  38% increase in the number of awarded in 2015. This year also saw five noted that he is especially optimistic about companies entering, to 83 Sauvignon Blancs earn Gold, and nine the category’s “opportunities for blending.”  23 Gold and 89 Silver medals winning Silver, while Chardonnays won He added: “Overall, Vin de France [wines] (OIV regulations cap medals at are solid in their price point for our market, 30% of entries). 10 Silver. The jump in medals from 2014 to and we are seeing more wines available  Of the medal winners, 49 were with increasing quality.” white, 40 red and 23 rosé 2015 speaks to the rising baseline of quality as well as vibrancy of the category Geoffrey Pattison, Buying and Import across a range that just a decade ago Director at Wally’s in Beverly Hills, CA, ON TREND would have struck most industry observers summarized: “I think this category is posi- This competition is also important in as downright radical. Meanwhile, the tioned to do very well in America. I think helping to pick out trends happening un- decision of major producers such as the production standards give winemak- der the Vin de France umbrella. Of the Boisset and Gérard Bertrand to join Vin ers the ability to craft wines creatively and mono-varietal expressions, Pinot Noir de France has added validation to the achieve better ripeness, flavors and drink- and Sauvignon Blanc have historically category’s progress. ability than they would under the more performed particularly well, while 2014’s Medals, of course, are never an end- restrictive AOC system.” Perhaps just as competition saw Merlot win multiple gold all. Yes, it is hoped that the competition, important, Pattison noted that savoir-faire medals. However, there was also plenty of and medal stickers, will help open new is evident on the outside of VDF bottles as room for the offbeat, with one sweet wine markets and attract new customers. But well: “The New World–style labeling, cre- taking a Gold medal, as well as awards for the competition remains one indicator ative marketing and modern winemaking a Negrette rosé and blends such as Char- that Vin de France as a category is all cater to exactly what American con- donnay/Muscat and Viognier/Roussanne. beginning to hit a stride in terms of sumers gravitate toward.” ■ WHEN WINE IS ON THE MENU

WITH PAIRING MENUS, WINE MAKES CULINARY ARTISTRY MORE PROFITABLE

BY JIM CLARKE

here are wine pairings, and there Sommelier Hai Tran says sales of pairings are Wine Pairings. Selecting a have quadrupled in the past year. wine to accompany a steak is one Creating a successful pairing menu thing, but what about pairing all doesn’t come easy. To start with, there’s Tthree, seven or 26 courses of a meal? “Our a need for variety. Tran says a good menu menu ends up being 20 to 30 courses,” will inherently call for different types of says Scott Cameron, Beverage Director wines in the first place, but he still makes at Atera in New York. “The pairing is the an effort to draw on wines from different best option to accommodate the guest parts of the world. One need not stop at and provide the best experience.” Guests wine, either. “I use beer, cocktails, saké, seem to agree; Cameron says a third to a non-alcoholic drinks…” says Cameron. half of Atera guests opt for the pairing, up from one quarter a year and a half ago.

The Umstead Hotel in Cary, NC, TOP: The wine pairing at Forage in Salt Lake City, offers a three-course prix-fixe and a just like their menu, changes, slightly, every day. LEFT: Head Sommelier Hai Tran of The Umstead seven-course tasting menu, and Head Hotel in Cary, NC. TOP: Scott Cameron, Beverage Director at off if needed.” With a longer menu, Atera in New York. BELOW: Atera's recent tasting menu. some wines may do double duty. “Our menu has a span of snack courses which I pour a really great Alsatian Riesling with,” says Cameron. “One Tran does the same, though he usually bite snacks—all smoky, rich, and steers away from cocktails to make it fatty; all great with a bit more savory easier to control the overall amount of style of Riesling.” alcohol being served. Portion control can also mean Logistics are another impera- price control. “An equilibrium can tive. During service, Tran says com- be reached,” says James Tidwell, MS, munication is key to make sure the Beverage Manager at the Las Colinas pairings go smoothly; the kitchen’s Four Seasons Resort in Dallas. “You timing needs to align with that of the put together the pairing as a grouping, server and sommelier, both of whom but based on individual pricing. The need to know which wine goes with highest expense wines are balanced by which course in case the sommelier unexpected, cool, fun wines that are is stuck at another table. “We always still inexpensive.” have two glasses staged, the bottle on Having multiple wines open for display and the next beverage,” says a pairing can lead to waste, but the Cameron. He’s also careful about glass more popular the pairing, the easier placement, so “the guest doesn’t feel that is to control, since turnover is obligated to pound leftovers, and the faster. “We are lucky that the majority table’s not getting cluttered.” of our wine sales are from the wine

PORTIONS & PRICING Portion size can be an issue when serving so many courses. Some guests will balk at ordering “20 glasses of wine” while others will look askance at a 2oz pour, so it’s important to set expectations. “I make sure they have enough to enjoy with what’s on the plate,” says Tran, “so as plates get bigger the pours get bigger. I may start off with two ounces and move up to three or four. They drink a total 3–3 ½ glasses by the end of experience. I’m not averse to topping them FORAGE PHOTOGRAPHS BY CHEF/OWNER, BOWMAN BROWN / SCOTT CAMERON BY MATT ABBICK / ATERA TABLE AND THE COUNTER BY MICHAEL WEBER AND THE COUNTER BY TABLE ABBICK / ATERA MATT CHEF/OWNER, BOWMAN BROWN / SCOTT CAMERON BY FORAGE PHOTOGRAPHS BY WINE PAIRING MENUS

‘SET’ OPTIONS

Even if you don’t have a standing tasting menu, there are plenty of occasions for a set menu where wine pairings can be part of building your revenue:

 The Prix-Fixe. This old-standby is a three-course seat-filler, often only offered at certain times of day: (lunch or Pre- Theater most typically). If the guest feels they’re saving money on the set menu, the wine-pairing option becomes an affordable indulgence. Since guests have options for each TOP: Brooklyn Delmont, Wine Director at Forage “Pairings offer and one of her all-time favorite pairings; elk heart course, pairings can either be tar-tar and a White Burgundy, particularly Chablis. broad—a wine that suits the opportunities for course, more-or-less, regardless of choice—or a wine paired with inventory control, each potential choice. especially where you “People who ask for the pairings are people who want more engagement with the  The Chef or Tasting Menu. have excellent wines service staff,” says Tidwell. “That added These are longer menus— enjoyment is a PR and marketing oppor- seven or nine courses, that people don’t tunity.” But don’t assume they’re study- perhaps—meant to highlight know about.” ing for an MS exam. “Unless a guest the range and quality of the — Brooklyn Delmont, shows an increased interest in wine we kitchen. They give a beverage director a chance to show off do not elaborate too much on it,” says Forage, Salt Lake City the wine program's range and Delmont, “since we are already at their quality. table often and would still like to allow them some private time. Typically, it is  The Seasonal Menu. pairing, so we rarely end up with wine after the wine is served and eaten with Often focusing on seasonal that is open more than one day,” says the food that I receive questions about it ingredients; when those Brooklyn Delmont, Wine Director at because it is a wine that either surprised ingredients are pricey—white truffle season, for example— Forage in Salt Lake City. The Forage them or they really enjoyed.” you're attracting guests who tasting menu may change daily; if a wine Sometimes one goes to all that are ready to spend. If it’s built can’t be used with a new menu, Delmont trouble to create a pairing menu, and the around a single ingredient, temporarily offers the remainder of the guest asks you to change it. “The pairing like truffles, just as the kitchen wine by-the-glass. is set,” says Cameron. “That’s what we do. needs to find variations on that But why dwell on negatives like It doesn’t do justice to the food to just ingredient, so will the pairing, waste? Tidwell says pairings can be a throw another beverage in there. I steer to ensure a progression that’s interesting enough but stays plus in managing other aspects of one’s guests who ask for changes toward the by- true to that component. product mix. “Pairings offer opportunities the-glass wines or a bottle.” for inventory control, especially where Delmont often does much the same,  The Holiday Menu. Valentine’s you have excellent wines that people but also encourages guest to try the Day, New Years Eve…whatever don’t know about. It introduces people to pairing as is. “We have a lot of people, at it may be, people are looking those wines, and then they enjoy them on the end of the pairing, say they were not for a special experience. The return visits,” says Cameron. big fans of white wine but have enjoyed pairing needs to be highlighted seeing how the wine is very different and special, though; for many people, a special occasion when it is put with food. This is what I TURNING EXPECTATIONS means a bottle, so you may find INTO OPPORTUNITY believe the point is to a wine pairing. The yourself working against that Guest expectations for pairings may go wine and the food changing each other mentality. beyond the interplay of fats and tannins. into something greater.” ■ INTRODUCING FLIGHT SONG by BRANCOTT ESTATE GOLD MEDAL WINNING SAUVIGNON BLANC CRAFTED TO BE 20% LIGHTER IN CALORIES *

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the premium spirits and wines company in the U.S. PLEASE DRINK RESPONSIBLY *Source: Versus Brancott Estate Sauvignon Blanc www.pernod-ricard-usa.com ©2015 Imported by Pernod Ricard USA, Purchase, NY. www.acceptresponsibility.org **Source: At the New Zealand International Wine Show. (Vintage 2012) region focus: cariÑena off spain’s beaten path The Under-the-Radar Cariñena Region Offers Old Vines, Character & Value

By kristen bieler

hances are, if you have soils—see photo), it couldn’t escape the Above left: Jessica Brown (The Breslin), Thomas Pastuszak (The Nomad) and Marika heard “Cariñena” it was in devastating effects of the Spanish Civil Vida (The Ritz-Carlton) taste through a range of the context of a wine grape. War and WWII. Quality today is on an Cariñena wines at the Beverage Media NYC office. Above right: Cover crops between vine rows Which it is. But Cariñena is accelerated upswing, thanks to a handful provide a habitat for beneficent insects as well as alsoC one of Spain’s oldest regions and one of cooperatives who dominate production gorgeous fall color. of Europe’s oldest appellations, awarded here and who uniformly defy the co-op Denominacion de Origen status in 1932 stereotype of poor quality mass production. (the second D.O. region in Spain). Last month we sat down with three of Yet today it remains relatively obscure New York City’s top sommeliers—Jessica believes. This was a sentiment shared by in the U.S. market, even among wine Brown (The Breslin), Thomas Pastuszak all the panelists, especially considering professionals, as very few wines from (The Nomad) and Marika Vida (The Ritz- that for a very low price, one can obtain Cariñena are imported. Many seasoned Carlton) to taste through a selection of a wine with real personality. “In most of sommeliers have never even tasted one. wines from the Cariñena region and record these wines, I found terrific minerality, This will likely be changing in the our impressions. What we discovered freshness, salinity and an appealing savory not-so-distant future. A lot has changed pleasantly surprised us all. character—particularly in the younger in the region since Romans planted vines wines—and a very judicious use of oak,” here. Cariñena had a multi-century-long The Value Pastuszak observed. “It’s unique to see reputation for excellence, but while the “Overall, I think these wines offer a very that much character and sense of place region survived the Phylloxera plague that approachable, accessible style for the larger come through in wines this inexpensive.” destroyed most European vineyards in the U.S. market—especially those seeking A useful selling technique is “value 1860’s (thanks to those absurdly rocky fuller, lush wines at a great value,” Brown by reference,” he continued: “If you enjoy Châteauneuf, here is a place you can get and error revealed that Garnacha more that same character and old-vine intensity “If you enjoy easily achieves ripeness in the landscape’s for half the price. A glass of Cariñena may sloping hills. The Cariñena grape remains cost $12 on a by-the-glass list, whereas you Châteauneuf, here important for blends, however, and has could pay two or three times as much if you is a place you can proven to thrive in many lower-elevation go to the Rhone.” Vida agreed: “You can’t sites. Interestingly, our panel’s favorite even get AOC Cotes du Rhone for $15 a get that same wine was the one mono-varietal Cariñena glass most places!” character and old- we tasted (Bodegas San Valero Particular Finding old-vine expressions at these Cariñena 2012). price points is another critical point of vine intensity for “Cariñena is a grape no region has distinction for Cariñena, emphasized really tried to own, and I think there is Florida-based Master Sommelier, Virginia half the price.” huge potential for this region to make Philip, who was not at our tasting but vis- -Thomas Pastuszak, it their signature,” said Pastuszak. “The ited the region last June: “To find a wine The Nomad Hotel quality of this San Valero Cariñena coming from 50- or 90-year-old vines for is really exciting, and I would be very under $30 is practically unheard of.” curious to taste more.” is exclusively what our panel tasted. The Grapes Confusingly, though named after the The Range of Styles The region produces some lovely whites Cariñena grape, the region is dominated by “The gamut of styles is really impressive,” from Macabeo and Chardonnay, but this Garnacha which represents 55% of total said Philip. “One hears so much about is undeniably red wine country, which vineyard acreage. Years of viticultural trial Priorat, but the dimension of wines from

t he panel weighs in

We tasted nine wines from old vines with zero oak aging, this sees six months minimum in French the Cariñena region. These expression is fresh vibrant and oak barrels. The result is a more wines are currently not red-fruit dominated, the group agreed. concentrated, richer version of their menthol, dried-strawberry aromatics imported; prices listed are Brown found it “spicy, bright but with Joven and a wine that the group very a nice richness—almost Syrah-like.” much enjoyed. “It’s a very classy and elegant texture. “The Cariñena best estimates of suggested Vida was similarly impressed: “It’s a wine with more baked fruit flavors grape is known for having a lot of U.S. retail prices. fun red, and a banging wine for $10.” and a hint of old Châteauneuf-du- reductive aromatics and sulphur-like (SRP: $10) Pape character,” Pastuszak said. Vida tones, but this was super fresh and commented on the “tremendous long really lifted with beautifully integrated

finish” marked by black fruit, smoke oak and great structure and acidity to Bodegas San Valero balance the fruit flavors and alcohol,” Particular Garnacha Joven 2013 and black licorice—“also amazing for Pastuszak shared. “This wine excited Young Garnacha at its best. Bodegas the price.” ($15) Bodegas San Valero me with its flavors and quality, but San Valero was established as a Particular Old Vine Garnacha 2011 Bodegas San Valero also as a potential for what this grape cooperative in 1944, and is today BSV uses 30 year old vines from Particular CariÑena 2012 could mean for the region in the one of the region’s largest—and fairly high-elevation vineyards for this Hands-down the group’s favorite wine future.” ($15) finest. Crafted from 15- to 20-year- small-production Garnacha, which of the tasting. Vida praised the floral, continued on next page ➥ cariÑena

C ariÑena’s blessed terroir

Cariñena makes it a truly compelling place. Depending on the age of the vines and the blend, these wines range from light and aromatic to dark, intense reds that D.O.P. Cariñena is focused on demand food.” Cariñena’s 29 wineries craft every- a new tagline, “The Next thing from Joven reds, Crianzas and Spanish-sommelier José Carlos Román Great Grape,” that builds on joined the tasting. Gran Reservas—some in large quanti- the popularity of Garnacha ties, some in boutique amounts. We sourced from older vines (the tasted a range of styles, and the group region has more old-vine Garnacha than any overall preferred the younger examples. these as ‘something new by-the-glass,’ other in Spain). Large, rocky soils predominate “I think the wines are most expressive you can really go that direction with here, forcing vines to burrow deep for water. and exciting in their younger, fresher these wines,” said Vida. “The fact that Punishing conditions—extreme temperature versions, where there is terrific mineral- Garnacha is a known entity definitely fluctuations between day and night, low rainfall, ity and the terroir really comes through,” helps, and I would describe many of these and the whipping Cierzo winds—can make Pastuszak summarized. wines to my customers as falling between farming difficult for growers, but can result in Pinot Noir and Nebbiolo in style.” superior grapes. Slow ripening ensures phenolic The Discovery Factor Brown agreed, adding that Cariñena is maturation without excessive alcohol, and good Sommeliers wade through a sea of still a discovery region, which can set a tannic structure. Elevation—up to 2,600 feet, wine daily, and most search for wines wine list apart: “These wines have great high for Spain—helps Cariñena’s 35,000 acres that are truly distinct and authentic; appeal for a sommelier who wants to of vines retain acidity. our panelists agreed that the wines of offer something truly unique by the glass Cariñena fit the bill. “I would promote that very few others have.” n

aromas,” while Vida admired the but doesn’t dominate or dry out the flavors of black tea and dark plums fruit character.” ($15-$18) and balanced tannins. “This is the Bodegas Paniza Grandes Vinos y ViÑedos Paniza Gran Reserva 2007 Corona de AragÓn Crianza 2011 highlight of the older wines we have This Cabernet-dominated blend is The largest winery in all of Aragon, tasted today,” shared Pastuszak. rounded out with Tempranillo and Grandes Vinos y Viñedos produces “It has the best combination of fruit Garnacha and spent two years in oak purity and evolution, and didn’t fall under a number of different brands. Bodegas Paniza apart with time.” ($12-$15) barrels and three years in bottle before This label is named for the great ViÑas Viejas de Paniza release. With a slightly orange hue, it kingdom of Aragon which reigned Garnacha 2012 displays mature flavors of dried herbs, in the Middle Ages. The Crianza is The vineyards are located at the stewed fruit, some nice cherry notes composed of Tempranillo, Cabernet, foot of the Sistema Ibérico mountain and mellowed tannins. ($23) Garnacha and Cariñena from 40-year- range, which runs from the old vines. Brown wished it had a bit Grandes Vinos y ViÑedos Cantabrian hills in the Northeast to the Monasterio de las ViÑas Gran more acidity. ($12-$15) Mediterranean. A large cooperative, Reserva 2007 The group found this to be a very the winery has undergone a major elegant Gran Reserva, laden with overhaul in recent years, outfitted with Bodegas Paniza mulled fruit, crushed red berries, high-tech winemaking equipment. Artigazo 2008 earth and a lovely floral character. Vines up to 100 years old contribute A blend of Galnacha, Syrah and Grandes Vinos y ViÑedos Garnacha, Termpranillo and Cariñena to this wine, which spends six months Cabernet, this more modern-styled red Monasterio de las ViÑas (40- to 50-year-old vines) make up in French and American oak barrels. from Paniza spent 18 months in mostly- Reserva 2008 the blend, which spent 24 months The panel praised this wine for its French oak barrels and several years in Dominated by Garnacha from in French and American oak. “This purity of black fruit flavors and long bottle before release. Over 40-year old 45-year old bush wines, this was really held up,” said Pastuszak. “It finish. “It shows terrific violet aromas vines contribute concentration of flavor the group’s favorite wine from this has a good structure and still shows and well-integrated oak,” added and the time in oak adds spice and cedar producer. Brown complimented its youthful character. The oak is present, Pastuszak. ($18) notes. ($27) “pretty fruit character and dried flower Since 1933, M.S. Walker has been proud to offer a dynamic range of quality products to our valued customers across the country.

SELLING THE GOOD STUFF

INDEPENDENTS FIND REWARD IN VALUE SWEET SPOTS, AVOIDING LOWEST PRICE TIER

BY W. BLAKE GRAY

rocery stores sell $3 wines. I was curious about the dynamic at consumer base is basically the $10 to Convenience stores have work here. In discussing their stocking $20 people,” noted Ken Maykut, a wine wines at $5. What about principles, I learned there are a number manager at Coastal Wine & Spirits in independent wine retailers? of reasons that savvy independents are Branford, CT. GHow low in price should a wine shop go? deliberately avoiding the lowest of the I called a selection of wine retailers price rungs:  The U.S. wine market is divided. around the country, and I didn’t find Sales of wine under $10 have been fall-  Super-cheap wines in grocery stores, any independent shops that carry bottles ing, but over $10 have been rising, and like the infamous Two-Buck Chuck of wine under $6. Some carry jugs and over $20 is the hottest of all. Thus, even (now $2.50 even in California) are loss boxes of wine that cost the equivalent of if stores find a great $7 wine, it may be leaders for stores whose main business is less than $6 per 750ml. But ultra-cheap too cheap for their clientele. not wine. “Trader Joe’s sells Two Buck wine in a bottle doesn’t seem to be a good Chuck because they sell other things,” product for wine stores. NEW SWEET SPOTS said Ken Irving, Director of Fine Wine at Even $6 was on the low side. This fundamental rising price point Westchester Wine Warehouse in White “The lowest we’ve had was $6.99. represents a big change from five years Plains, NY. “They bring people in to buy We’ve got two or three SKUs,” Julia ago, when consumers were trading down $2 wine and make very little margin, but Cochran, store manager for The Wine after the economic crisis. Now, they’re they’re also selling chicken and making Club in Santa Clara, CA, told me. trading up. “The premium wine business 100% margin.” Most every wine shop I spoke to, is strong and prospects are good,” says even the most exclusive, carries at least  In states where grocery stores are al- wine industry analyst Jon Fredrikson. “All one wine under $10. So the bottom lowed to sell wine, people looking to buy the big wineries—Gallo, Constellation, tier in 2015 for independent retailers is $5 to $7 wine usually pick it up while the Wine Group, DFV—are moving into somewhere between $6 and $10. buying pork chops and applesauce. “My the $10 to $14 segment.” Ken Maykut, a wine manager at Coastal Wine & Spirits in Branford, CT.

In contrast, Fredrikson says wines However, these supermarket wines priced below $9 began steadily dropping have developed a terrible reputation and, in sales in late 2011. In food and drug rather than nudging customers upscale, stores measured by Nielsen, sales of wines as has happened in the U.S., they have under $10 dropped 816,000 cases in 2014, begun to drive consumers away to other while sales of wines priced $10 to $14 rose alcoholic beverages. by just over 1 million cases. For smaller American shops that It appears that the economic or some emphasize a curated selection, it has be- stores, carrying $8 wines would hurt their come very difficult to find wines under image. “We are a boutique, artisanal possible to get a wine very cheaply and $10 that fit the bill. “The less-than-$10 producer-oriented wine store,” says Mark charge a decent margin on it. However, segment is made of world surplus bulk Mazur, operations manager of Best Wine such a deal would almost certainly have wines,” says Jeff Bitter, Vice President Purveyors in Pleasantville, NY. “We do to be exclusive to a single store. of Operations at Allied Grape Growers not go below about $10 a bottle. We can’t “If I saw a great $5 wine, I might be in California. find wines that are good enough to sell interested but I’d also be interested in a At Best Wine Purveyors, Mazur and that represent the store that we are. The nice mark-up on it,” says The Wine Club’s his staff write information cards about fighting range for us is $14 to $19.” Cochran. “We’d look at Wine Searcher every wine. They’re not averse to large New York, of course, is a special case and see what kind of mark-up we could producers. “We have La Vieille Ferme because grocery stores are not allowed to get. The effort to bring in the wine, and blanc. That’s our lowest-priced wine,” sell wine. Given that context, there is put it in the system, wouldn’t be worth it Mazur says. “It’s a fairly widely available a need for stores like Westchester Wine for a 20% mark-up.” brand, but it’s the Perrin family and it Warehouse. It’s in a relatively affluent area, is well made. We’ve also got Thomas but it still carries Glen Ellen and jugs. Ken THE QUALITY-PRICE Hyland Cabernet from Australia, from Irving employs “stores within the store” to CONUNDRUM Penfolds. I can tell customers the story service multiple different types of custom- I’ve skipped over a crucial issue about of Penfolds. And we’ve been able to find ers that come in: “Some are coming in be- cheap wines in fine wine shops: Even with small Bordeaux producers that fit in the cause they want the jug wine, they know the worldwide advances in winemaking $10 to $12 range.” they can get it here, and it’s reliable. Then and hygiene, wines under about $7 usually But drop below $10 and that kind of you’ll have the everyday consumer who’s just aren’t very good. wine with a story behind it tends to drop looking for something $8 to $25. Then This has become a huge problem away, replaced by generic varietal wine you’ll have the higher-end collector who in the United Kingdom, where years of from whatever country currently has the wants to buy Mouton-[Rothschild].” ruthless price competition among the cheapest currency. Even with some clients that might be five big supermarkets that dominate wine There is a customer for that kind of interested in very cheap wines, though, sales have taught British consumers that wine, and you can see them, state laws there is an important factor limiting wine can be had for 5 pounds sterling. At permitting, in Trader Joe’s, buying com- Westchester Wine Warehouse’s purchase current exchange rates, that’s about $7.50, modity wine by the case. However, as long of them: margin. “If you could sell $6 so it’s not as cheap as the cheapest wines as the economy remains strong, when cus- wine and you paid $1 for it, you would in U.S. food stores. tomers come to your independent wine want to sell it all day,” Irving says. “The shop, chances are good that super-cheap margins make it worthwhile.” isn’t what they’re looking for. Which For the most part, distributors in New means less time and energy invested at York don’t, and can’t, offer bottles of wine Wine sales under $10 that low-margin low end, and more in- at such low wholesale prices, which means dropped 816,000 cases vested in developing a value “sweet spot” that selling a $6 wine at 20% margin just that works for your clientele. isn’t as attractive as selling a $15 wine at in 2014, while wine Times change, people change, budgets 20% margin. sales priced between and behavior change. “With gas prices States like California don’t have that being so low, I’m getting people to step up issue. Retailers can buy direct from many $10–$14 increased by out of their $20 range and buy a $25 wine,” sources, which means theoretically it’s 1 million cases. says Coastal Wine & Spirits’ Maykut. ■ on on call call @ american whiskey Midtown West, NYC

americanwhiskeynyc.com tapping into jim beam’s sweet side Jim Beam Honey is right at home in whiskey cocktails “friends By kristen bieler with p” American Whiskey, New York City

ew bars pour as much whiskey as Manhattan’s American Jim beam cocktail Whiskey. Bartender Joey Vargas offers 150 American whiskies, along Fwith 50 others from around the world, and estimates that whiskey in friends with p some form makes up close to 70% of what people drink at this establishment. 1 oz Jim Beam Honey 1 oz Jim Beam 90 proof Rye ½ oz Angostura Amaro .38 oz grapefruit juice Just what role do flavored whiskies that is a huge asset,” Vargas explains. .38 oz lemon have in a hard-core whiskey program Most importantly: “It actually tastes Shake with one grapefruit twist in the like his? “There are some flavors that are like honey.” shaker. Strain over fresh ice. far better than others,” Vargas shares. Jim Beam Honey is a classic shot (in “When it comes to cocktails, I prefer fact, Vargas offers it as part of a beer-and- those that offer an authentic flavor and shot special at Happy Hour, rotating the aren’t too sweet.” beer with the seasons), but Halley Kehoe, For his “Friends With P” creation— Senior Brand Manager, Jim Beam, re- inspired by the classic Gold Rush cocktail, ports seeing a lot of recent interest from a mix of bourbon, lemon and honey— bartenders in mixing with it, too: “We’ve Vargas uses Jim Beam Honey along with seen a lot of excitement around Jim Beam Beam’s Rye and gives it a grapefruit twist Honey in the basic “plus 1’s” (cola, ginger (“I love the aroma of grapefruit, so I shake ale, etc.), and also with citrus (lemon, the drink with a grapefruit peel”). grapefruit, orange) as well other “We use honey in a lot of our unique pairings such as hazel- cocktails here, and using Jim Beam nut or amaretto liqueur. The Honey shot Jim Beam Honey is so with a beer fact that it is infused with much easier than stirring real honey, not artificially fla- in real honey. In a high- vored, really resonates with the volume account like ours, mixology community.” n

Joey Vargas at American Whiskey brandprofile

tequila double-shot Pernod Ricard brands aviÓn & Altos Make a Powerful Pair By jeffery lindenmuth

ominic Alcocer’s title says it all: Director of Tequilas, Pernod Ricard USA. The French-based company is betting big on the continued ascent of Mexico’s national spirit with not just one, but two high-quality 100% agave tequilas that complement eachD other in advancing market share and the overall tequila category. “The tequila age is just beginning! Our commitment as a company is ensuring we are competing with extremely well-crafted spirits that are in the fastest- growing categories,” says Alcocer.

Top of page: Avión founder Ken Austin takes a Figures from the Distilled Spirits single signature cocktail—the Margarita— break with the jimadors who work exclusively for Council of the United States affirm that since making a splash in the U.S. in the Avión. Olmeca Altos is known to its many Millennial fans simply as Altos. Above: Fans of the brand position. High-end premium and super- 1960s. tend to favor Avión tequilas on the rocks. Avión premium tequila, the exclusive domain Tequila Avión, created by entrepreneur Espresso, 70 proof and made with Italian espresso, has extended appeal to bartenders. of 100% agave offerings, have registered Ken Austin in 2009 and majority owned impressive growth over the past decade. For by Pernod Ricard since 2014, is a perfect the period beginning in 2002 and ending poster child for the changing opinions 2013, the super-premium segment of the and perceptions surrounding tequila. interesting challenge: viewers weren’t sure U.S. tequila market, virtually unknown a Through Austin’s friendship with Doug if Avión was real. “Ken was pleased, but decade ago, soared 481% in volume, while Ellin, creator of the HBO series Entourage, also pained because he was approaching high-end premium tequila attained a 178% Avión landed a starring role in two seasons tequila from a purely flavor perspective, and increase. It’s an impressive run by any of the hit series soon after its launch. for people to say it was a marketing brand measure, especially for a spirit that has relied Avión’s appearance in Entourage’s fictional was simply not true,” recalls Jenna Fagnan, almost exclusively on sales of shots and a Hollywood fast lane gave rise to an President of Tequila Avión. The company Since 2002, the super-premium Mexico to retain the traditional method. Also like Avión, it is brick-oven baked. and high-end segments of the U.S. Priced around $25 at retail, the Altos Plata (a blanco style) and Resposado tequila market have enjoyed an offer incredibly affordable introductions impressive run by any measure. to authentic 100% agave tequila. “Altos is a younger consumer, often coming from mixto [tequila] or other spirits. They are ready to leave spring break behind. These are the same folks who are responded with a “Yes, it’s real” campaign harvested at the peak of maturity by starting to explore the nuances of bourbon and saw demand soar. Whether choosing exclusive jimadors, these agave piñas are or Scotch and want to explore other Avión Silver, Resposado or Añejo, tequila slow roasted in a brick oven to develop authentic quality spirits,” says Alcocer. lovers, who tend to favor the spirit on the flavors that can’t be created in a modern While co-founders Dre Masso and the rocks, quickly learned that Avión had the autoclave. After three days, the sweet, late Henry Basant brought star bartender quality to back the buzz. At the 2012 San baked piñas are allowed to rest to re-absorb pedigree to the brand, the original vision Francisco World Spirits Competition, their juices, much like a sizzling steak. of a quality Tequila with a compelling price Avión Silver took the honors for not only During distillation in a copper pot and a robust flavor profile that excels in World’s Best Tequila, but also World’s still, Master Distiller Alejandro Lopez cocktails is in good hands with co-founder Best White Spirit, beating out hundreds takes a very narrow cut of only the best and Maestro Tequilero Jesús Hernández. of vodkas, gins and rums. Fagnan quickly distillate, followed by a proprietary “Henry’s life force is present in the liquid recognized that Avión had the hallmarks filtering to createT equila Avión. “In the itself,” says Alcocer. “When we work with of a lasting luxury brand: “Tequila has to be end, each bottle takes about 30% more bartenders and mixologists and the trade fun and lifestyle. But something I learned agave than other tequilas. Ken is more community, I love to see the playfulness in my time at LVMH, working on not just about the finished product than cost. and creativity, all the ways they bring Champagne but watches, is that you can’t That entrepreneurial spirit of not cutting Altos to life.” have a quality brand that lasts without corners is a philosophy that guides Pernod Ricard also brings quality first.” the whole team,” says Fagnan. Altos to life by connecting Much like the best wines, Avión is With unaged Avíon Silver directly with consumers. At not made delicious by doing anything (averaging $40/750 ml retail) altostequila.com, consumers drastically different, but rather through as the flagship, Fagnan notes are inspired to go beyond incredibly meticulous attention to the that they also sell “an unusually the normal margarita, smallest details. “Ken is such a stickler, large amount of Resposado and with cocktails beautifully every step of the way,” she says, noting Añejo,” aged six months and photographed in martini the agave for Avión comes from 7,000 two years respectively. It’s not glasses, teacups, mason jars feet above sea level, where deep-rooted surprising given the excellent and flutes.I n fact, most of the plants result in deeper concentrations of value of these expressions, priced marketing spend for Altos flavor. After being hand- only about $5-$10 more than is in digital. “YouTube has Silver at retail. more of our target consumer than all the networks combined. It’s The pinnacle of the Avión Olmeca Altos: hypertargeted and very efficient,” range is Reserva 44, an extra More than a sidekick says Alcocer. Inventive on-premise añejo that receives 43 months in oak barrels, then an Olmeca Altos has joined Avión promotions include a bicycle handing out additional month in petite at Pernod Ricard, created by two free tacos street-food style. barrels, rotated daily to achieve a dark, rich flavor bartenders who envisioned an authentic With two progressive tequilas, united profile with well-integrated tequila that skews younger, while by their pursuit of quality, Alcocer sees oak and lush vanilla. Priced at $150, Reserva offering exceptional value. “Altos,” as only great synergy for the future: “I love 44 declares that tequila is fans know it, relies on some of its agave having both these brands. It is exactly prepared to compete with whiskey, Cognac and other crushed by a two-ton stone tahona where we need to be to meet the needs of aged spirits. wheel, one of only seven distilleries in where consumers are going.” n NEWPRODUCTS &PROMOTIONS

Jack Daniel’s Fires Up Francis Ford Coppola Winery New Cinnamon Spirit Launches Sofia Red blend Following a promising limited release in Sofia wines started as a sparkling wine, emblematic 2014, Jack Daniel’s red-hot cinnamon of Francis Coppola’s love for his daughter. The line spirit is taking aim at Fireball nationwide. moved to varietal wines, and now Sofia Red joins Tennesse Fire, aka “Jack Fire,” brings the red blend fray. Made from Paso Robles fruit, together the distinctive character of Jack Sofia Red is composed of 62% Grenache, 37% Daniel’s Tennessee Whiskey with a red-hot Syrah and 1% Mourvèdre, offering aromas of red cinnamon spice liqueur. The result is a cherries, pomegranate and tea leaves with a touch sweet, hot kick that complements the classic of tangerine. taste of Jack Daniel’s. 70 proof.

SRP: $23.99 SRP: $17 jackfire.com francisfordcoppolawinery.com Facebook.com/JackTNFire Facebook.com/CoppolaWine

Award-Winning Yellow Spot Laird’s ‘Jersey Lightning’ Whiskey Enters U.S. Market is a Clear Take on Applejack Yellow Spot, one of Ireland’s premier Single Pot Laird & Company, known for premium Still Irish Whiskies, has officially entered the applejack, is rolling out Laird’s “Jersey U.S. market. The 12-year-old Single Pot Still is Lightning” Apple Brandy. The first new matured in a combination of bourbon, Sherry and Laird’s branded product to be introduced in Malaga casks. Known for its complex taste profile, almost two decades, the clear, un-aged apple it possesses honey sweetness with pot still distillate has a full mouthfeel with rich flavors spices. Hints of coffee, creamy milk chocolate and of apples and peaches. 100 proof. crème brûlée are also found in this complex Irish whiskey. 92 proof.

SRP: $99.99 SRP: $29.99 singlepotstill.com lairdandcompany.com

‘Beers of Mexico’ Variety Pack Returns A New Signature CuvÉe with Limited Edition Dos Equis Azul from grove ridge After a successful select-market run, Heineken USA has New from winemaker Michael Alley, Grove Ridge announced the return of the “Beers of Mexico” variety pack Cuvée Brut is crafted using premium California including the limited-edition Dos Equis Azul—a blend of Chardonnay and French Colombard grapes. With signature golden wheat lager and blue agave. Dos Equis Azul aromas of apple and pear, the bubbly has balanced will be available only in the 12-bottle Fiesta Pack, joining Dos acids and finishes with flavors of caramel and Equis Lager, Tecate and Sol. The citrus fruits. Pairs beautifully with goat or sheep “Beers of Mexico” program will cheeses and charcuterie. Available in 750ml and run through July 2015. 187ml bottles nationwide. Marketed by Bronco Wine Co.

SRP: $11.99/750ml; $4.99/187ml heinekenusa.com broncowine.com Facebook.com/Heineken Facebook.com/BroncoWineCompany Trio of New Flavors Bols Imports Oldest from Captain Morgan Genever Since Repeal Captain Morgan is looking ahead to Lucas Bols, producer of Bols Genever, has released warmer weather with three new flavor a single-barrel genever aged six years. It is now the expressions: Pineapple Rum, Coconut oldest genever available in the U.S. market since Rum and Grapefruit Rum. Each variant Prohibition. This genever was aged in American blends Captain Morgan White Rum with white oak, as opposed to the classic Bols Genever natural flavors, making them perfect which is aged in French Limousin oak. Bols Barrel for simple cocktails, as well as more Aged Genever can be enjoyed at room temperature, complex, Caribbean-inspired drinks. with a splash of water or ice, as an aperitif, a digestif Available nationwide. 70 proof. or in an old-fashioned. Four hundred 1L bottles are available nationwide. 80 proof.

SRP: $15.99 SRP: $46.99/1L captainmorgan.com bols.com Facebook.com/captainmorganUSA Facebook.com/BolsGenever

19 Crimes Adds a cabernet Refresh with to the Criminal Lineup UV Vodka’s Newest Flavor The Australian brand 19 Crimes celebrates the UV Vodka has an eye on summer with their latest founding of that nation by criminals. With the flavor, UV Ruby Red Grapefruit. This refreshingly Shiraz-driven 19 Crimes red blend already a mixable spirit strikes a balance between tangy hit, a Cabernet Sauvignon has just been added and sweet. Made with all natural flavors and real to the criminal line-up. Featuring the signature grapefruit juice, it is delicious over ice or in a dark frosted bottle and a new criminal’s image mixed cocktail. Available nationwide in 1L, 750ml on the label, 19 Crimes Cabernet aims to appeal and 50ml bottles. 60 proof. to Millennials.

SRP: $12.99 SRP: $11.99/750ml 19crimes.com uvvodka.com Facebook.com/19Crimes Facebook.com/UVVodka

An Inspired Pinot Noir Twisted Tea Introduces from Antares New Year-Round Flavors Inspired by the brilliance of the great red The Twisted Tea Brewing Company has announced the star Antares, this Pinot Noir was made by release of Twisted Tea Strawberry Lime and Twisted winemaker Michael Alley using fruit from the Watermelon Lemonade, both available nationwide. high elevations of Napa Valley’s Atlas Peak AVA. Twisted Tea Strawberry Lime combines the taste Aged in American oak, the wine features berry, of a real iced tea with fresh, fruity strawberry notes smoky and earthy aromas. Red-fruit flavors and a hint of lime, while the Twisted Watermelon and balancing acidity come together in a very Lemonade is made with real watermelon complex Atlas Peak Pinot Noir. juice, and is refreshingly light and dry. Both styles come in 6-packs and 24oz cans. 5% ABV.

SRP: $7.99-$9.49/six-pack, SRP: $29.99 $2.49-$2.99/24oz can broncowine.com twistedtea.com Facebook.com/BroncoWineCompany Facebook.com/TwistedTea BARTALK

DESTINATION: CLOVER TRAVIS ST. GERMAIN CLOVER CLUB, BROOKLYN, NY

BY ALIA AKKAM

artender Travis St. Germain spends his nights at Brooklyn’s famed Clover Club, working alongside owner Julie Reiner and head bartender Tom Macy. “The staff is When he’s not slinging drinks, he consults for new-to-the-States cachaça constantly going B brand Yaguara, spreading the gospel of an on-the-rise spirit. through trainings. We try to take in as THE BEVERAGE NETWORK: At a bar of our favorite neighborhood industry like Clover Club, where the classics pros for their dinner and nightcap. much as possible and and modern originals are both so spare our guests the important, how do you stay creative? TBN: Clover Club has such an esteemed reputation. Are patrons painful details.” TRAVIS ST. GERMAIN: Julie and Tom especially curious? go through the old menus and decide which classic drinks and authors we still TS: Most people going to a bar like Clover haven’t paid homage to. Then, seasonal Club will ask you if they have a question. matics. It also has a relatively low acid level drink categories are chosen. Once all this Then some will try to stump you with a due to the distillation of sugarcane juice. is done I, along with the rest of the bar question, when it’s obvious they already This gives it enough versatility to throw a team, look at a sort of skeleton of a menu know the answer to it. If it’s slow, and a ton of lime juice at it without losing balance and we talk about how best to fill it in. The guest looks interested, I’m happy to nerd —or even amari and vermouth for much hardest part is deciding who gets to make out about the drink in front of them and all more interesting and fun results. which styles of drinks. After that’s done, the ingredients in it, but for the most part we start working on our assignments. people who are drinking would rather talk TBN: Having traveled to Brazil, what are the biggest differences you about something that is going to make encountered in their bar culture? TBN: Clover Club is a beloved them laugh rather than the tedium of mash industry den and, as revealed on bills, brix levels and char numbers. The hectic Saturday nights, attracts a more TS: In both Rio and in Sao Paulo I imme- staff is constantly going through trainings mainstream crowd as well. How does diately saw the emphasis on fresh fruit. In put on by distillers, liquor conglomerates it lure in both demographics? Brazil everything revolves around the in- and brand ambassadors. We try to take digenous tropical fruits, most of which are in as much as possible and spare our TS: Clover Club has always done things not exported. My favorite, and one I hope guests the painful details. the way that Julie wants them to be to see here in the States, is caju, which done. I think that her style of hospitality the cashew grows off of. It tastes simi- TBN: Now that you’re working with and service is appealing to a lot of Yaguara, what cocktails are you turning lar to the nut, however it has the texture, different kinds of people; whether they’re guests onto at the bar to try cachaça? sugar and acid level of a peach. Some of in the industry, neighbors or cocktail the fruits are highly unusual, but in Brazil enthusiasts. Lucky for both of us, we serve TS: Everything but the caipirinha. The bartenders utilize many of them with the food until 3:00am and get to see a couple beauty of artisanal cachaça is in the aro- utmost care and skill. ■ LIKE WHAT YOU SEE? GET THE WHOLE PICTURE

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