THE BOISE ROAD by ROD LATIMER

A Working Organization Dedicated to Marking the California Trail FALL 2010

Several people have asked me about the route of the wagon train trip that occurred in June. The route was along the existing original road, as much as possible, via the Stage Stations set up to handle coach traffic to the Idaho diggings. Researching the museum files, I was able to identify all the Stage Stations and most of the re-up stations along the route. In the spring of 1862, John Bidwell received a US government contract to build a road from Chico to the developing gold strike in the Idaho territory. He assembled a group of workers from each town and village he foresaw as being a stop along the selected route, to help motivate their efforts, and began the work at several locations simultaneously. The route he selected from Chico went via Humboldt Peak, hence the name. The work proved to be both hard and dangerous, and progressed far more slowly than Bidwell had committed to in the contract. Repeated Indian raids on the worker’s camps and on the workers in the field meant that almost 30% of Bidwell’s team was on guard duty protecting the others most of the time. So, to shorten the effort, Bidwell elected to use many existing roads and simply improve them to support the larger freight wagons. From Prattville eastward to the vicinity of Westwood, Bidwell followed the Lassen Trail. The recently discovered Fredonier Pass offered a shorter way to Susanville, so Bidwell built eastward from Clear Creek across Mountain Meadows and down the east side of the mountains to cross the Susan River at the Devils Corral. The new road merged with the Nobles Trail near Lake Forest and the road into Susanville was widened and improved. This road proved to be very popular for trade between both towns. Generally, there were re-up stations every 15 to 20 miles to change horses and allow passengers a short break and water. At 30 to 40 miles, or about every other team change there was a Stage Station; the difference between them being that food and lodging was offered at the Stage Stations. Stage coaches traveled about 8 to 10 miles an hour, so the stops were offered about every two hours. A noon meal was provided and the one hour midday stops, and the coach would roll on for at least another four hours before stopping for the night. If the trail was clearly known and easy to follow, the stage might roll on through the night. If not, they would wait for the all clear. So, as an example, a Stage leaving Susanville for Idaho would leave from Main and Gay Streets at 8 AM and head east. A change of horses was made at Shaffer Station (continued on page 9) 1

TRAILS WEST DIRECTORY

DIRECTORS OFFICERS STAFF Jon Willers Larry Schmidt – President Dick Brock – Guidebook Editor Ralph Theiss Bob Black – Vice-President Don Buck – Trail Historian Bill Bishell Linda Black – Secretary Richard Halford - Quartermaster Joyce Everett Sandy Theiss – Treasurer Kay Kelso - Archivist Rod Latimer Dave Hollecker – MARKER editor

www.EMIGRANTTRAILSWEST.org - For MARKER submissions: [email protected]

NOBLES TRAIL FUN TRIP by Janice Brown & Leta Bishell

On June 21st to the 25th Trails West members gathered to go on the first, of what we hope is many, of what we are calling our Fun Trips. No work, just trail traveling with a leader that is familiar with the Trail and its history. We all had a wonderful time and are looking forward to the next “Fun Trip”. Following are excerpts from the journals of two of our participants. June 21, 2010 Met with members of "Trails West" in Gerlach, NV. I'm excited to be traveling over the "Nobles Emigrant Trail", which my ancestors probably took on their movement westward in 1854. They eventually settled in Hydesville, California. Janice Brown June 21 Our first night to meet up with our Nobles Trail group after attempting to clear part of the Applegate Trail at Fandango Pass. No luck on the clearing, the Forest Service fire crews were called out on a fire and hadn’t cut the brush and trees. We didn’t mind; it gave us more time to explore. That night, we enjoyed Bruno’s famous raviolis and made plans for the next day trail outing. Leta Bishell June 22 We enjoyed breakfast at "Bruno's Country Club", where we were met by other members who were anxious to begin the trip. Within the first hour and a half I had a blow-out and a flat tire.

Thanks to the resourcefulness of the group, I was back on the trail within a short time. Thanks to Bob Black and Bill Bishell we visited almost every marker from N-1/A-10 to N-12. I especially enjoyed driving across the playa and seeing the variety of water features in such inhospitable places. The roof of the trading post at "Deep Hole Springs is falling in. I'm glad Bob Black took the picture that is in our guidebook. In a short time it will be lost to the elements. What a great day on the trail. Janice Brown June 22 Today started off with a bang – two flat tires between Gerlach and Rabbit Hole Springs. A great example of why all of us (continued on page 8)

Johnson Cutoff field trip September 7 and 8, 2010 by Larry Schmidt

September 7 was a clear, warm day and we gathered Carson Route Marker # 29. It is located at the Carson River, east of Carson City, in the new boat launch ramp parking area near the BLM office. Dee and Glen Owens, Jon Noland, Bob Black and Larry Schmidt comprised a group for the first day. We traveled from the junction to the site of Eagle Station at 5th and Thompson in Carson City. Eagle Station was a prominent point mentioned in the journals that describe the Johnson Cutoff route to Placerville California. From Eagle Station we continued up Kings Canyon to a low summit where the trail dropped in to the Clear Creek drainage. The low summit offered a nice view of a little valley and the Clear Creek drainage giving a perspective of how the route dropped down then continued over the pass at Spooner Summit. We discussed briefly the fact that Sam Clemons, in his book Roughing It , described a trip to Lake Tahoe that ½ summits first one being low on the second when being higher and still not being able to see Lake Bigler now called Lake Tahoe. This description fits the Johnson cutoff. And this information coupled with the rest of his description enabled finding the location of his camp at Lake Tahoe. Bob black kept a preliminary log of the trip to help in provide future driving instructions. John Nolan verified points with a GPS, all which will be helpful in the future in getting this segment of the trail marked. The group then continued back through Carson City and up Clear Creek Canyon to the point where the trail dropped off the Kings Canyon Pass and looked to the marker site. Then we continued on up to the rest area near Spooner summit had lunch and discussed some the local history in the area. We continued on to the Spooner Summit fire station and took forest road #33 to two of the sites for markers along that route. We discussed some of the trail evidence in the area. Glen had hiked a considerable portion of the trail of the first section and we were able to fairly well establish the route along with some the earlier work that John Nolen had done on the sand. We then continued on to the second marker site which was near an apparent ford that had been constructed that John and Larry had found on a previous trip. This is also near the site where John discovered a cast iron cooking pot part that he has begun reassembling for display. We retraced our steps to highway #50 and continued on down Cali Park where the trail dropped off in the vicinity of Edgewood near what would later become Friday Station. We continued from there along Pioneer Trail which closely approximates the Johnsons route through the southern part of the Tahoe Basin. We stopped at Trout Creek which could serve as another site plan for a marker and then continued on to the base of the ascent to Johnsons Pass near the upper Truckee River. On the morning of the eighth, the group assembled near the junction of highway #89 and #50 and John Winner took over guiding the group down the Johnson cutoff from Johnson pass to Placerville. ~

NEW OPPORTUNITY TO ORDER TRAIL WEST SHIRTS . AND HATS Don Enneking is putting together a new order for shirts and hats for delivery this Spring. These shirts have the Trails West covered wagon logo above the pocket. Show your support for Trails West by ordering and wearing these shirts and hats. We need your orders on the order form sent to Don Enneking by February 1, 2011. SEE PAGE 6

TRAILS WEST, INC., NEW-REINSTATED MEMBERS SINCE LAST ROSTER WAS MAILED ON JUNE 22, 2010

Kenneth Allen Neal/ Marian Johns 3170 Carson Road 13825 Lytle Grove Lane Placerville, Ca. 95667 Lytle Creek, Ca 92358 [email protected] [email protected]

Lee Black 5505 Edwards Drive, N.E. John/ Kaia McLaughlin Albuquerque, NM. 87111 5313 Shepard Avenue [email protected] Sacramento, Ca. 95819 [email protected] Craig/ Linda Corwin 477 Moana Way Neita/ Mark Montague Pacifica, Ca. 94044-2837 7840 Tamra Drive [email protected] Reno, Nv 89506 [email protected] Lee/ Patricia R. Dummel P.O. Box 353 Jim/ Denise Moorman Magalia, Ca. 95954 P.O. Box 2483 [email protected] Fernley, Nv 89408 [email protected] Jon/ Linda Elsnab P.O. Box 52 Jon/ Janet Nowlin Gazelle, Ca. 96034 4441 Conte Drive [email protected] Carson City, Nv 89701 [email protected] Thomas R. Hart 650 Tiffany Drive Verlyn/ Carol Osborne Hollister, Ca. 95023 11399 Ketner Lane [email protected] St. George, Ks. 66535 [email protected] Mel/ Robin Holland 1935 Bechtol Ridge Circle David/ Erma Turnbull Reno, Nv. 89523 P.O. Box 37 [email protected] Elko, Nv 89803-0037 [email protected]

Clinton R. Waugh 31 La Cresenta Drive Oroville, Ca. 95965 [email protected]

WELL, WHAT IS THIS?

COULD IT BE TRAILS WEST’S NEW WEB SITE HOME PAGE?

YES IT IS!!!

GO TO: EMIGRANTTRAILSWEST.ORG AND TAKE A LOOK.

WEBMASTER BILL BISHELL SAYS YOU CAN GET THE LATEST NEWS ON WHAT IS GOING ON IN TRAILS WEST, FROM OUR BANQUET‐GENERAL MEMBERSHIP MEETING TO FIELDTRIPS AND OTHER TRAIL EVENTS. GOT NEWS TO PUT ON THE SITE? SEND IT TO BILL AT: [email protected].

There is a members only page on the site that requires a code to enter. Email Bill to get the code. This is so Bill can check the roster and your email address to make sure you are a paid up member . . .

TRAILS WEST, INC. SHIRT AND CAP ORDER FORM DENIM SHIRT: 100% cotton denim, stonewashed, button-down collar, patch pocket. Long sleeve has a back pleat, button-through sleeve placket and adjustable cuffs. Short sleeve does not have a back pleat. Embroidered Trails West Logo with covered wagon profile.

. Both Short and Long Sleeve Shirts ...... $36.00 (includes shipping, handling, and tax)

DENIM CAP: Baseball-style caps, 100% cotton. One size fits all. With embroidered Trails West Logo.

Cap ...... $15.00 (Includes shipping, handling, and tax)

LADIES SIZES Small Medium Large X-Large Size 6/8 10/12 14/16 18/20 Bust Measurement 34 ½ - 35 ½ 36 ½ - 38 39 ½ - 41 43 - 45

MEN’S SIZES Small Medium Large X-Large XX-Large XXX-Large Neck 14---14 ½ 15---15 ½ 16---16 ½ 17---17 ½ 17 1/2--18 18---18 ½ Chest 34---36 38---40 42---44 46---48 50---52 54---55

ORDER FORM Item Description Size Qty Item Price

(Example) Long Sleeve Shirt Ladies Medium 1 $36.00

Charge for XXLarge and XXXLarge of $3.00 (if applicable) TOTAL ORDER Make checks payable to Trails West, Inc. $

Ship To:______Name

______Address City State Zip

Phone number:______

MAIL ORDER FORM AND CHECK TO: Trails West, Inc., 110 Siebe Drive, Fairfield, CA 94534

WE WANT YOU TO APPLY FOR THE POSITION OF TRAIL ACTIVITES COMMITTEE CHAIRMAN by Bob Black BACKGROUND

At the Trails West Board of Directors meeting on November 4, 2010, the Board acted on Don Buck’s proposal and established this position. For many years, Don has been planning, coordinating, organizing, scheduling and announcing the yearly field trips. It is time for someone else to continue this important activity, beginning in 2011.

This position is vacant now and needs to be filled by February 15, 2011.

This position is open to any member of Trails West, Inc. If you are interested in applying for this position, or would like more information about it, contact Larry Schmidt, president, at [email protected].

Larry will coordinate the necessary TW Board discussion and approval of the most viable candidate.

As the more varied trail activities showed this past field season, in the future Trails West will be conducting more activities than just the usual two field trips for installing markers on unmarked trails.

In addition to installing new markers, we will likely be relocating existing markers, replating vandalized markers, replating markers that do not presently have “diary quote” inscription plates, performing other marker maintenance tasks and taking “fun tours” on marked trails where no work is planned.

DUTIES: The new position of Trails Activities Committee Chairman includes these duties:

Plan the trail activities for the current and future years in conjunction with other involved committees such as Marker Maintenance, Marker Fabrication and Trail History.

Recruit other committee members, who would be appointed by the TW Board, to lead each planned field trip.

Schedule the various trail activities and develop an activities calendar, in conjunction with other committee members, for TW Board approval

Promote the approved field activities to the Trails West membership by using the TW web site, The Marker newsletter and announcements and sign-ups at the Annual Meeting and Banquet, etc.

Attend all TW Board of Directors meetings and report on the status of proposed and approved trail activities. ~

(Nobles Fun Trip - continued from page 2) should have, not just tires with lots of tread, but the right kind of tires too. But, like the emigrants of past, our hardy band of travelers didn’t even blink and had everything fixed in minutes, and we were on our way. We started at Marker N-1 near Rabbit Hole Springs and made our way from there to Smoke Creek. I am still in awe of the emigrants, what a tough, resilient group of people. A short part of our trip between markers took us 10 minutes; it took the emigrants most of a day to travel the same distance – seemingly endless miles of sagebrush, sand, dust and very little water. At Marker N-8 we were fortunate to get permission to see Deep Hole Springs and the old trading post. What a treat. We ended the day at Robber’s Roost with our traditional Trails West pot luck. As usual we did not lack for food. Yummy dinner! Leta Bishell June 23 Last night two more members joined our group. We now number nine 4WD vehicles and we are a group of 15 (I think). We left from marker N-12 and ended at marker N-28. We followed "Smoke Creek" through the canyon and enjoyed the cool cave where many travelers through the years sought shelter from the elements. We stopped at an old ranch to have lunch and then on to enjoy the spot where an old hotel was once a very active spot on the "Nobles Emigrant Trail". We continued our journey through Susanville to the NW and into the tall timber of the high country. After visiting a few more markers, the group camped for the night. We had spent all day in the sage brush, rolling hills, barren mountains and the meandering "Smoke Creek" which provides a lush environment in an otherwise dry and dusty area.

I especially enjoyed the information about the freight routes that developed in the 1860s and the modifications they added to the trails of the migration west. Another delightful day with perfect weather. Janice Brown June 23 We started today with Marker N-12 which led us into Smoke Creek Canyon. Our group decided to hike along a portion of the trail and were excited to find (and left) numerous artifacts – bottles, bottoms of lead cans and nails to name a few. I could really get hooked on this. Today we traveled through desert areas lined by the lush Smoke Creek to the forests past Susanville where trees abound. What a contrast for the emigrants to finally come upon the lush forests. We are now on paved roads. Camped at Bogart Springs with gazillions of mosquitoes, but we did get showers there. Leta Bishell (continued next page)

YOU CAN ORDER TRAILS WEST TRAIL AND DRIVING GUIDES ONLINE

Go to the emigranttrailswest.org web site and go to the trail guide page. Click on guide text beneath the image of the guide and see what each guide is about. Then click on the order form and check out the prices – especially for members; HUGE DISCOUNT! DO IT NOW!

(continued from page 8) June 24

We started our day at the marker of the gravesite of Nancy Ann Allen. The mosquitoes were waiting for us and they had a feast. So, we hurried onto the next location. We visited several markers that had both the Noble and Lassen Trail markers on the same marker or very close to one another. We had lunch at the rest stop where the settlers had started down the steep route down from the table bluff and onto "Old Station". The fire from last year was a sad sight. We visited several more markers before stopping for the night at a beautiful and sheltered location in the pines about a mile from Rt. 44. What a difference in topography from the first two days on the trail. I said good-bye to my friends and travelers and wished them well for the next and final day of the trip, as I was not able to stay with them for the fourth and final day. I am grateful for the time and effort Bill & Leta Bishell and Bob Black took, to provide and guide us over this emigrant trail. Best wishes to all, Janice. June 24 Today we started at Marker N-29, the first Nobles Pass and the easiest of the three passes. Next we headed for Nancy Allen’s grave and then on to Feather Lake which happens to be an undisturbed and pristine part of the trail; not too many of those areas left. We had a chance to meet up with Clancy and Georgette at the Bogart Springs rest area for just a few minutes before resuming our trek. We still had many miles and several markers to see before setting up camp at Marker N-47 near Lost Creek. June 25 We started at Marker N-48, the third Nobles Pass, near now named Eskimo Hill. One of our group, “Mushroom Mark” found and introduced us to various species of mushrooms along the way, a nice addition to the trip. At Marker N-49 (Manzanita Creek) we ate manzanita berries but couldn’t find any raspberries that were plentiful for the emigrants and mentioned by journal entries. This is where the older and newer Noble Trails merge. The emigrants must have been so relieved to see this terrain - lots of grass and clean water too. Marker N-51, Deer Flat, is such a picturesque valley, a great resting place for any visitor. We are traveling through more populated areas now, lots more cars, houses and people. As we get to Shingletown and Marker N-55 we discover that our van was in need of help and here we left everyone to have it worked on. Our group is dwindling on this last day, and we are sorry to leave right before the end of the trail. This is the first time I have been able to experience a trail from beginning to end so thanks to all for such a fun and educational trip. ~ Leta Bishell ------

(BOISE ROAD - CONTINUED FROM PAGE 1) (now Mapes Ranch), then head for the viewlands and onward to Mud Springs Station (at Espil Ranch), where they would stop for lunch. An hour after arriving, the coach would pull out again and head for Smoke Creek where a re-up stop was made at the Army camp. After a quick change of horses, the stage would pull out and head down Smoke Creek Canyon. Once at the canyon mouth, the road led east to Buffalo Springs, where another Stage Station was located (now the Heller Ranch). Upon leaving Buffalo Springs the road led east along the north side of Smoke Creek Playa to Deep Hole Springs, then southeast toward the pass around the southern tip of Granite Mountain (at what (continued next page) 9 was to become the town of Gerlach some years later) to Fort Granite Station at the point Granite Springs run-off meets Black Rock Playa. After a short rest there, the stage would head east toward Black Rock, traveling along the edge of the Playa, slowly swinging north around Granite Mountain until it reached a small re-up station named “Painted Rocks Station” near Access Point 27 today. From there, the trail leads pretty much north along Soldier Meadows Road to Soldier Meadows Lake, then five miles into Camp McGerry and Soldier Meadows Ranch. There was a hotel, food, and rest at the ranch. Following their rest, the next several miles was through pretty rough terrain as it wound up through the hills to the Indian camps and re-up station at Summit Lake. After a short stop at the lake, the stage started northward, down Summit Ridge to the Stage Station at Knott Creek, reaching there before dark. Knott Creek Station stands today as an excellent example of the stage line station building of more than 150 years ago. From Knott Creek Station, the road follow along the western edge of the Pine Forrest Mountains to the re-up station at Pine Creek, then heads into the Pueblo Wells Station, located at today’s Denio, NV. Pueblo offered overnight accommodations at their hotel, and food, as well as a place to wash the alkali off your skin. After leaving Pueblo, the stage continued northeast to one re-up station which has disappeared over time, to the entrance to Trout Creek Canyon. At the canyon entrance stands Trout Creek Station, well kept and maintained by the landowner of the property.

HERE IS THE ORIGINAL STAGECOACH STATION AT DENIO, NV. NO ROCKS WERE AVAILABLE, SO IT WAS HAND MADE FROM LOCAL ADOBE

TROUT CREEK STAGECOACH STATION LOOKING SOUTH. THE CANYON IS TO THE LEFT.

From there the trail continues eastward through seven miles of canyon lands before striking north toward Whitehorse Ranch and Fort Steger, and the Whitehorse Station. Resting for a short time, the stage left Whitehorse and struck out 10 northeastward toward Crooked Creek Station, some twenty miles southwest of Rome, OR today. There was an intermediate re-up station required on this leg of the road because of the deep and soft sand the road ran through as it followed Whitehorse Valley toward Rome. Once out of Crooked Creek, the road continues northeast to the Borger Ranch Station, where it merged with the ION road from Winnemucca. After the Borger Station, the road heads northward to the Owyhee River crossing north of Rome Store, then crossing the river, it heads eastward to Arock Re-up Station and continues on to the Stage Station at Danner Ranch. From there, the road runs twenty miles into the pueblo of Jordan Valley and Jordan Valley Station. From that point, the road begins to climb the twelve miles to Silver City, the headquarters of the Idaho diggings and the main supply town. ~

OLD ION ROAD NEAR RATTLESNAKE CREEK ROAD. JORDAN VALLEY IS IN FAR DISTANCE

SCENES FROM THE TRAILS WEST FIELDTRIP IN JUNE FROM SOUTHERN IDAHO TO BATTLE MOUNTAIN, NV.

Fieldtrip crew looking over a wagon swale in northeastern Nevada An evening around the campfire – this makes it all worthwhile.

P. O. Box 12045 Reno, NV 89510

The MARKER Index

Page 1 – Boise Road 2 – Nobles Fun Trip 2 -- Trails West Directory 3 – Johnson’s Cutoff Field Trip 4 – Roster Update 5 – Web Site Next issue will come out around 6 _ Shirt & Hat Order Form April-May 0f 2011. 7 – Activities Chair Needed 11 – June Photos Please send all TRAILS WEST articles & photos to: [email protected] 12