BRENDAN KELLY of KILLARGUE writes about ST. MARY'S HOLY WELL

A paved pathway, veering slightly to The Hill behind the well rises almost St. Mary's Well the right of an obsolete lime kiln straight up from it like a great wall. The disappears into a clump of trees two level sward stretches beyond the hedges Killargue hundred yards ahead. There, amidst encircling it, forming a plain of some 5 these trees is Tober Muire (Tubber or 6 acres in extent. This plain is by Brendan Kelly. Murria) or Mary's Well, referred to bounded on the South and East by a locally as The Holy Well'. regular succession of hills of the same Holy Wells have always occupied Occasionally one hears of it being general elevation and on the North and n important place in Irish Catholic called 'St. Brigid's Well', a name for West by equally high perpendicular eliej and practice, going back to which it is difficult to find basis or limestone rocks. The whole plain arliest times. Even in pagan Ireland, foundation. Of course the local parish suggests at once a much enlarged he spring well was regarded with a church is dedicated to St. Brigid and amphitheatre. Until the main road ense of sacredness and mystery. With perhaps here lies the explanation. from Manorhamilton to Drumkeerin he coming of Christianity the church forced its way in and out through the ook over this regard for wells and On entering a second valleys on the north and south and Messed them, dedicating them to local Seclusion Sate y°u become con- skirted along the western hills, >aints. In " The History of the Diocese — and Peace scious of an unusual destroying the solitute, the spot would \f Kilmore", Philip O'Connell writes — atmosphere, an atmos- have made an ideal retreat for a saint or The History of weII-worship in Ireland phere that is pleasant, relaxing and ser- hermit. It must have been such in days wings us back to pagan times, when ene, a serenity emphasised by the of old. It may be laid down as a good veils were actually objects of worship. regular murmur of the stream that is guiding principle, if you want to see Uerchan relates how St. Patrick on one the over spill of Mary's Well. You get Ireland's places of security and occasion found the Druids wor- the feeling of wanting to pray, wanting seclusion where surprise would be hipping at a fountain and offering sac- to meditate, wanting to participate in difficult and whence flight would be if ices to it. Water was one of the four devotion and somehow the turmoil of rapid and easy, look out for the Penal 'elements" of the ancients, the others this space age has opted for a place on Day Mass rocks. What an ideal ~>eing earth, air and fire. St. Patrick, the other side of the gate. Let us pause location was this cathedral-like laving blessed these wells, and many of in pensive mood and flick back the enclosure, a more desirable open air he early Churches in after years being pages of Tober Muire three hundred church could scarcely be imagined. established in their neighbourhoods, years and contemplate or recapture the he wells became intimately associated dawn dramas — brave men — our Tobar Muire or vith Christian practices, and this hunted forefathers — stealing in ones Penal Mary's Well is a very veneration has continued down to the and twos down the perpendicular rocks Days ancient place of ^resent time". or through the little glens and 'alts' to pilgrimage and its this very spot, chosen for its seclusion Christian association is as old as The Holy Well in Kilargue is the and security, to assist at the Holy Christianity itself. For centuries it has 9/7/v one in the country dedicated to the Sacrifice of the Mass, and for this been an important link between the Blessed Virgin. From time immemorial treasured privilege they risked paying people of Killargue and their Creator. it was a place of pilgrimage, and even the supreme price — life itself. Where During Penal Days its importance and though the number doing the "station" would you find a spot more deserving significance to the people of the parish at it dwindled for some years, it is a of the title 'Holy', more worthy of that was immeasurable. According to the oopular place of pilgrimage again. It is refreshing atmosphere than Mary's Annals, the Holy Well was attached to in the townland of Killargue, a short Well? Under the shade of a top heavy a religious settlement 'Kill Fearga' (Cill distance from the Church. holly tree at the foot of a limestone hill Fearga) founded by a holy woman St. lies the Well and slightly to the left at Fearga as early as the sixth century. NEXT TIME you are travelling from the rear stands a stone cross believed to The Annals of Ulster make reference to Manorhamilton to Carrick-on- be very ancient and similar in design to Bishop Feonad of Cill Fearga who Shannon remember to decelerate as a very rare type of cross unearthed at lived in the ninth century. When you go through the village of Killargue Tullaghan about two hundred years O'Rourke, Prince of Breffni was and be prepared to negotiate the series ago. The Tullaghan cross is of 12th captured by the English, his territory, of snakelike bends immediately ahead. century origin. Shaded also by this ivy which included Kill Fearga, was Having left this tiny village some seven encircled holly is a very beautiful grotto confiscated by Elizabeth. Subsequently hundred yards behind, a watchful eye of Our Lady which has recently been the religious houses were destroyed and notices a simple blue gate of small provided. In the immediate vicinity of the monks and nuns banished. During dimensions on the left. If you have a the grotto, whitethorn, elm, sycamore the Plantations of James 1, Kill Fearga meagre fifteen minutes to spare then and copper beach enhance the area. was alloted to a planter named the little blue gate may be the gateway Facing the ancient cross is a Anderson. The new settlers later to an experience that is both rectangular green sward as spacious reroofed the church at Kill Fearga as aethetically and spiritually beautiful. and as level as a good sized cathedral. well as the neighbouring churches of 58 Cloonlougher, Drumlease and Killery ministered in the parish. Fr. McHugh The O'Trower (Travers) sept were and used them as places of Protestant was born and reared in Gortermone, guardians of Kill Fearga church, worship for almost two hundred years. one of many townlands which Charles OTrower made a very Kill Fearga was abandoned when the constitute the mountainous country of dangerous journey to visit O'Rourke new Protestant church was built in Lugnaskeehan, when he awaited execution in Tyburn. 1820. It is ironic that though the old O'Trower was from this district. The natives were debarred from their Undoubtedly in these dangerous village of Kill Fearga situated near the church they continued to use the old times their intimate knowledge of the church and Holy Well on the old Deny cemetery which surrounded it. The locality was instrumental in their road was a resting ..place for cemetery contains many ancient tombs appointment as pastors of Killargue. It O'Donnell's army on its marches south of McTiernans, McMorrows, is a happy coincidence that another against the English. A number of O'Rourkes and Gallaghers. It was Curneen — Paddy — whose father also O'Clearys (Clarkes), O'Gallaghers , while the Catholics were expelled from hailed from the Conaghill district Sweeneys and O'Doherty's settled in their church that St. Mary's Well should, in peaceful times, have Kill Fearga. When persecution became assumed greatest importance. Mass spiritually served the people of more intense they fled to the mountains was celebrated in secret at the Holy Killargue for a record number of years. of Creevelea and Lugnaskeehan. Well and what an ideal location it was. He died in August 1972 having On Mullaghmore Hill nearby there was completed almost 70 years as sexton of The sturdy O'Gallaghers were again a lookout post which afforded excellent the church. in possession of the lands of Kill Fearga views of the roads leading from by 1850. O'Gallagher, an officer in Dromahaire and Manorhamilton. The Humbert's army was killed at Battle escape route for the priest was through While Fr. McHugh Hill, Drumkerrin in 1798. He is buried Blackgardens which was then, as it is Bishop served in Killargue, in Kill Fearga cemetery. now, a wooded area. The route led to Campbell Dr. Andrew the safety of the mountain fastnesses of Campbell, the There is a strong tradition that an Raymore and Creevelea. celebrated bishop, ruled the diocese of O'Gallagher from here put the match to Kilmore (1753-1769). Dr. Campbell the kegs of gunpowder at the final It was in these darkest of Penal Days, travelled his diocese on foot dressed in destruction of Manorhamilton Castle. when persecution knew no bounds, the ornate costume of a Highland Piper The Kill Fearga district suffered greatly when our forefathers attended Mass carrying his pipes under his arm. form the burnings of Hamilton. here at the peril of their lives, Killargue Indeed he did justice to his unusual people were fortunate to have their garb for he was an expert performer on In the early part of the spiritual welfare entrusted to local the bagpipes. He utilised his Decline 19th century as Penal priests. Towards the end of the 17th accomplishments to the full to enable Laws, denying the century Fr. Cormac Curneen was him to travel through his diocese, then right to freedom of pastor. Fr. Curneen hailed from swarming with bigots and fanatics. religious practice, were relaxed, Mary's Conaghill, a track of hilly land Doubtless it was in such circumstances Well was no longer the key or focal separated from Killargue parish by the he visited the Holy Well, in Killargue point in the religious lives of the river Bonet. Towards the middle of the where he administrated Confirmation community. It continued, however, as a 18th century Fr. Charles McHugh to large numbers. place of pilgrimage where stations were

Doing the Station at St. Mary's Well in Killargue Photo: Martin O'Dea 69 annually performed on the Four Lady's been a crowding rabble into a patient, encouraging, instead of the picture < Days as the four feasts of the Blessed most orderly and reverential previous years of the odd pilgrii Virgin are called, — February 2nd, assemblage." trudging a lone journey to the Well \* March 25th, August 15th and had now a constant trickle from ear] September 8th. On these occasions The spectacle of 1906 Corpus Christi afternoon till the setting of the sui there was no organised procession. procession could never fade from the Encouraged by this response and urge People went alone, in small groups or memory of anyone present. To ask on by interested parishoners th in families and a set ceremonial was anyone of the thousands present on ceremonies of the Feast of th observed. They recited the Rosary as that glorious day to accept that Assumption 1973 were to prove a gre£ they walked round the well. From Killargue would not see another success. In a summer of incessant rai about 1850 onwards abuses led to the organised procession for nigh seventy Killargue manged to steal a day to d stations at the Holy Well being banned. years would have been asking too its cause justice. Following Benedictio There seems to have been a revival of much, an eventuality beyond in the church a large congregatio interest in Tobar Muire about 1900. In comprehension. Yet the eventuality proceeded to the Holy Well processio 1902 an effort was made to enhance the was destined to become a reality. was led by a local school band an< beauty of its surroundings. A variety of During the succeeding years Tobar choir. On reaching the Holy Well twi flowering shrubs had been planted to Muire almost drifted into the depths of Rosaries were recited with Mrs. Kat replace the trees that had gone. Lilac, oblivion. The prevailing circustances Harvey leading the way and then Hug] rhododendrons, scarlet thorns and a militated against its survival — Joseph Slevin. Fr. Clarke talked brief!; copper beech were planted of which the devotion of any kind at the Holy Well on the feast of the day and ceremonie copper beech is the lone survivor. was discouraged rather than concluded with hymns by the choir t< encouraged by the church. Access to the accompaniment of the school band, Probably the most the Well was difficult, the traditional It would be a little less than the whol triumphant day in the route was long and rocky and this 1906 discouraged the less agile parishoners, truth to. say Fr. Clarke was a Ion Mission history of Mary's pioneer in the modern revival of Mary' Well was recorded in soon the pathway became overgrown. Well. The revival has becom 1906 on the feast of Corpus Christi. A A direct route from the main road synonomous with two parishoners ii mission conducted by Fr. Murphy and meant the crossing of unbridged drains particular, John McHugh and Michae Fr. Power was nearing its close and and to follow such a route rendered the pilgrim guilty of trespassing, a practice Murphy. A debt of gratitude is also du< under their supervision an outdoor to very many others whose generosit; procession of the Blessed Sacrament one connot justify, even when Tobar Muire is the goal. in toil and kind made the venture such; was organised. Benediction was given success. When at the Holy Well i in the open. Except in the church, there would indeed be fitting to remember al was no advertising of the intended Devotion at Tobar Grand who helped and in particular to pra] processioi)/Notwithstanding this short Muire steadily for the repose of the soul of Dan Judg< notice It was anticipated it would be Revival declined and was at its 1972 - 74 whose daughter, Annie, (Mrs large. But it was never dreamt the lowest ebb as late as Campbell) Manhattan, New York crowd would reach such gigantic 1971. In 1972 the kindly donated the beautiful statue o proportions. A local newspaper dated flickering flame was fueled when the Our Lady. A special word o Saturday June 30th 1906 gave a local curate Fr. Clarke suggested we appreciation is due to Jim McKenna o colourful and comprehensive coverage should visit the Holy Well on the 15th Manorhamilton who gave his time an< of this eventful day. "The day was August and recite the Rosary there. skill free to build the grotto. Perhaps al superb, the crowd, if crowd we can call Response to the appeal was who helped have found consolatioi the thousands, as orderly as batalions and reward in the 1975 celebrations of drilled soldiers was most reverential. when an estimated crowd of 120( The massive procession was led by a turned out for the occasion. To mari dozen priests. The route which was Holy Wells in County Leitritn the Holy Year, arrangements wen marked by colourful flags led up the Aughavas—St. Patrick's in the townland of made for Mass at the Holy Well, tht road towards Drumkeerin, having eased Killafea. first since Penal Times. A temporary round the 'elbow' bend immediately Aughnaslieelin—St. Patrick's in Miskawn and altar was erected by Jim McKenna a turned sharp left, followed the 'old Crimlin. the rear of the Well and Mass waj road' as far as the cemetery, and Ballinagleara—St. Hugh's in Cloithrean Beag. St. Brigid's in Greaghnafarna. concelebrated by Fr. Dan Galloghy opposite the ruins of the old church Ballinamore—St. Brigid's in Oughteragh and Fr. Tommy Flynn, Fr. Eugene Clarke (Cill Fearga) turned right across the Cloverhill. Fr. Kevin O'Rourke, Fr. Michae fields, over the hill and down the valley Ballaghameehan—St. Molaise's in Derry- McTiernan and Fr. Sean McTiernan to the Holy Well. When the procession nahimmirk. The sermon, preached by Fr. Gallogh} reached the Well and the huge Carrigallen—St. Patrick's in Aughawillan and was interesting and inspiring multitude settled on the surrounding Beagh. Amplification for the occasion was the terrain what a common and Cloonclare—St. Michael's in Black Park. joint responsibility of Noel Harkin and unamimous feeling of jubilation was Cloone—St. Fraoch (Criffer Ree) Jim Keaney. Lessons were read by Jim expressed when Fr. Murphy was heard in Streamstown. 4 Drumreilly Lr.—St. Everan's in Cully. Boles and Bernadette McSharry. Three to say Hither, to where your Drumsna—St. Brigid's in Aughantubber. members of the Lynch family oi forefathers in secret worshipped in the Fenagh—St. Caillin's in Mullaghnameely. Larkfield took the gifts from the Grottc Penal Days, with the watchmen on Garvagh—St. Patrick's in Dromorthy. to the Altar. The choir was conducted guard on the surrounding hills, where Innismagrath—St. Brigid's in Killadeescart. by Mrs. Carre and Jim Boles. The our Divine Saviour came amongst St. Hugh's in Derrinweer. ceremony was an overwhelming them as if in shame and by stealth, we Killasnett— St. Patrick's in Aghamore. success, reminiscent of that glorious bring Him back to-day in the Blessed Killargue—St. Mary's in Killargue. 1906 occasion. Let us trust, with the Eucharist, openly, and in triumph, and Kiltoghert—Sunday's or The Lord's in Fawn. interest and enthusiasm that now let no disposition of our hearts be Kiltubrid—St. Patrick's in Annadale. prevails in the parish of Cill Fearga, wanting, no circumstance be absent St. Patrick's in Edenmore. .Rossinver—St. Mogue's and St. Caillin's beside that devotion at her ancient Well will that can contribute to express our the old church. never again diminish but continue to hamage and thankfulness'. These Tullaghan— St. Patrick's in Bunduff, flourish. words transformed what might have 70