© Lonely Planet Publications NORTHEASTERN THAILAND 452 lonelyplanet.com NORTHEASTERN THAILAND •• History 453 Northeastern ern Thailand. The name comes from Isana, FAST FACTS the Sanskrit name for the early Mon-Khmer Best Time to Visit November to kingdom that flourished in what is now north- Thailand February eastern Thailand and Cambodia. After the 9th century, however, the Angkor empire held Population 22 million sway over these parts and erected many of the fabulous temple complexes that pepper NORTHEASTERN THAILAND the region today. For most travellers, and many Thais, the northeast is Thailand’s forgotten backyard. Isan (or History Until the arrival of Europeans, Isan re- ìsǎan), the collective name for the 19 provinces that make up the northeast, offers a glimpse The social history of this enigmatic region mained largely autonomous from the early of the Thailand of old: rice fields run to the horizon, water buffaloes wade in muddy ponds, stretches back at least 5600 years, to the hazy Thai kingdoms. But as the French staked out silk weaving remains a cottage industry, peddle-rickshaw drivers pull passengers down city days when the ancient Ban Chiang culture the borders of colonial Laos, Thailand was started tilling the region’s fields with bronze forced to define its own northeastern bounda- streets, and, even for those people who’ve had to seek work in the city, hearts and minds tools. ries. Slowly, but surely, Isan would fall under are still tied to the village. This colossal corner of the country continues to live life on its Thais employ the term ìsǎan to classify the the mantle of broader Thailand. own terms: slowly, steadily, and with a profound respect for heritage and history. region (phâak ìsǎan), the people (khon ìsǎan) Long Thailand’s poorest area, the northeast and the food (aahǎan ìsǎan) of northeast- soon became a hotbed of communist activity. If you spend even just a little time here you’ll start to find as many differences as similari- ties to the rest of the country. The language, food and culture are more Lao than Thai, with 0 100 km NORTHEASTERN THAILAND 0 60 miles hearty helpings of Khmer and Vietnamese thrown into the melting pot. Ban Ahong Beung Kan V I E T N A M L A O S Pak Khat Wat And spend time here you should. Isan saves its finest surprises for those with the patience Phu Tok Phu Wua See p489 NONG Wildlife KHAI 222 Sangkhom Sanctuary to come looking for them: Angkor temple ruins pepper the region, superb national parks See p502 VIENTIANE Pak Chom 212 Phon Phon Ban Phaeng protect some of the wildest corners of the country, sleepy villages host some of Thailand’s Xanakham Tha Phisai Charoen Chiang Nam Bo Nong 212 Som wildest celebrations and the scenery along parts of the Mekong is often nothing short of Khan Khai Sang Ban Pak Huay Khom Wanon 2 Ban Chaiburi/Nam Song Si Tha Li LOEI Ban Niwat NAKHON amazing. Thailand’s tourist trail is at its bumpiest here (English is rarely spoken), but the Phu Reua Pheu Sawan PHANOM National Park Loei Udon Ban Na Duang Dan Din fantastic attractions and daily interactions could just end up being highlights of your trip. Thani Chiang Tha Khaek Phu Reua Tham Erawan Phang Khon Nakhon 201 22 Phanom Na Klang Wang Saphung 210 Chaiwan SAKON NAKHON 22 Phu Phu Luang Nong Sakon 212 13 Bualamphu Renu Luang National Park UDON THANI Nakhon L A O S NONG Kut Bak Nakhon (1571m) Mekong Phu Kradung BUALAMPHU Phu Phan 223 That Phanom National Park Si Buan Non Sa At Wang National Park Phu Ruang Sam Mo Lom Nam Nao Kheuan Talat Klang Huay Huat National Park Kradung Dong Sang Sak Lam Pao National Park River Si Chompu 213 Kaw 9 Ubon See p480 212 Ratana MUKDAHAN KALASIN KHON KAEN Mukdahan Savannakhet Kheuan Chumphae 12 Chulaphon Khon Kalasin Nong Sung Ban Kaen Mukdahan Kamalasai HIGHLIGHTS Phu Fang Phon Thong National Park Khiaw Kaset Sombun 2 208 Loeng 13 201 Mahasarakham Pha Nam Yoi Kok Tha CHAIYAPHUM Chonabot Borabeu Seeking elephants, tigers, monkeys and Tat Ton Reserve National Park National Park 23 Khemmarat Nok Nam Ban Phai Borabeu Selaphum AMNAT CHAROEN more in the mountainous forests of Khao Nong Bua Roi Et Daeng Nong Wang 219 YASOTHON 212 202 Lakhon Chiang Khan Sala Kaew Ku Reserve Yai National Park ( p464 ) sculpture park Prasat Peuay Noi ROI ET Pha Tiu Amnat Charoen Pheng 225 Chaiyaphum MAHASARAKHAM Yasothon Phra That Phu Kradung Phon Phana Soaking up Isan’s Angkor-era stone age 202 Kong Khao National Park Na Pho Suwannaphum 202 Noi while wandering through the restored 201 Bua Yai Ku Phra Koh Na 202 Kaeng Tanna 214 Mun 23 temple complexes of Phanom Rung ( p468 ), Nong Bua 2 Phisai National Park Khok Khong Khuang Phimai ( p461 ) and Prasat Khao Phra Wihan Nam Nai Ubon Khong 205 Mae Rasi Ratchathani Jiam Sateuk See p461 Ban Tha Salai Warin ( p545 ) NAKHON Phimai Klang Phibun RATCHASIMA 219 Chamrap Mangsahan Chom Phra Chong Watching the Mekong drift by in the sopo- Nakhon Ratchasima Ban Khwao Prasat Si Saket Kheuan Mek Sinarin Sikhoraphum Sirinthon (Khorat) Buriram rific riverside village of Chiang Khan ( p507 ) Phimai Kheuan Det Udom Surin SI SAKET Lam Ta Sung Noen Ban Janrom Buntharik Succumbing to the surreal in Nong Khai’s Khong 2 BURIRAM Phanom Pak Thong 214 SURIN 24 UBON Khao Yai Rung Chai 24 Nang Prasat Sangkha Sala Kaew Ku sculpture park ( p493 ) Pak Chong Kantharalak RATCHATHANI National Park 304 Rong Prasat Hin Prakhon Prasat Khao Phra Prasat Khao Phra Pa Chai Ban Phluang Phu Chong Nayoi Climbing, and climbing some more, then Khao Yai Wihan National National Park Wihan National Park Kham Phanom Kap Choeng Park National Park Rung See p540 finally soaking up the beauty from atop Phu Thap Lan See p470 Khao Phra National Park Prasat Phnom Bach Wihan Ta Meuan Kradung National Park ( p504 ) PRACHINBURI 348 (581m) C A M B O D I A Phu Khok Yai Prachinburi Khao Chong Tako (753m) NORTHEASTERN THAILAND 454 NORTHEASTERN THAILAND •• History lonelyplanet.com NAKHON RATCHASIMA PROVINCE 455 Ho Chi Minh spent 1928 to 1929 proselytis- Provinces, while Lao-style temples – most ing in the area, and in the 1940s a number of notably Wat Phra That Phanom – are the Indochinese Communist Party leaders fled to norm along the Mekong River. Many of the EATING ISAN Isan from Laos and helped bolster Thailand’s people living in this area speak Lao (which is Isan’s culinary creations are a blend of Lao and Thai cooking styles that make use of local ingredi- Communist Party. From the 1960s, until an very similar to the Isan language) as their first ents. The holy trinity of northeastern cuisine – kài yâang (grilled chicken), sôm-tam (papaya salad) amnesty in 1982, guerrilla activity was rife in language, and, in fact, there are probably more and khâo nǐaw (sticky rice) – is integral to the culture and reminisced like lost lovers by displaced Isan, especially in the provinces of Buriram, people of Lao heritage in Isan than in all of Isan taxi drivers in Bangkok. Also essential are chillies, and a fistful of potent peppers find their NORTHEASTERN THAILAND Loei, Ubon Ratchathani, Nakhon Phanom and Laos. Many villages in the far south still speak way into most dishes, especially lâap, a super-spicy meat salad originating from Laos. Kaeng om Sakon Nakhon. But growing urbanisation drew Khmer as the primary language. has more in common with tôm-yam than with typical Thai curries as it has plaa ráa (a popular many peasants to the cities and the various The people of Isan are known by other fermented fish sauce that looks like rotten mud) instead of coconut and sugar. It is sometimes insurgencies evaporated in the glare of Thai- Thais for their friendliness, work ethic and served with glass noodles, but even then it’s still meant to be eaten with rice. land’s boom years. Not everyone has benefited sense of humour – flip through stations on Except at food stalls and the cheapest restaurants, fish dominates Isan-specific menus with plaa though, and the per capita income in Isan is the radio and you will hear many DJs laugh- dùk (catfish), plaa chawn (striped snake-head) and plaa bu (sand goby) among the most popular less than one-third of the national average. ing at their own jokes. Respect and hospitality dishes. These are mostly caught in the Mekong and a few other large rivers. Fish that families towards guests is a cornerstone of Isan life catch themselves are usually small – sometimes so tiny they’re eaten bones and all – because Climate and most villagers, plus plenty of city folk, they come from streams and rice paddies; as do crabs, frogs and eels. Plaa bèuk (giant Mekong Northeastern Thailand experiences a three- still pride themselves on taking care of other catfish) is the most famous fish associated with the northeast, but it is almost never eaten here season monsoonal climate, with a relatively people before themselves. The best food is because it costs too much. cool dry season from November to late Febru- usually reserved for monks and guests, and if To Westerners and other Thais nothing stands out in Isan cuisine like insects. Even as recently ary, followed by a hot dry season from March you get invited to a village home your hosts as the 1970s insects composed a large part of the typical family’s diet, though it became a fading to May (when temperatures can climb to over will almost certainly kill one of their chick- tradition when the government promoted chicken and pig farming, thus lowering the prices of 40°C) and then a hot rainy season from June ens to feed you (vegetarians should speak up these now popular meats.