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Chimont DECEMBER 2007 - NUMBER 5 PUBLISHED BY CHIMONTGROUP - ITALY NEWSLETTER FROM THE FUTURE OF TANNING Innovation 3 Research and quality in keeping with tradition The value added of ChimontGroup. CHIMONTGROUP Tel +39 0571 467838-39-40 Fax +39 0571 467795 Via Barsanti, 32 - 56020 Capanne - Montopoli Valdarno (Pisa) Italy [email protected] www.chimontgroup.it Contents focus n5 Innovation cubed On Focus on Why have we chosen to entitle this issue of 01 LeatherZone “Innovation3”? The answer is simple, and lies in three key concepts – tradition, research 02 Cuoio “espresso” and quality – that we at ChimontGroup believe to be fundamental for the construction of real and Spazio Tech takes off lasting success. Today, with the total globalisation 04 of markets and faced with an increasingly aggressive competition, the company that wants to remain 06 Chimoil W/19 competitive is practically obliged to improve the quality of its products constantly, innovating its productive processes, while at the same time Nuovacentauro, successful insole 08 protecting the traditions that made it successful. This is why investing more and more in research is indispensable, substituting old processes that are Triumph at Micam and Mipel 10 costly and cause pollution with others that are economical and clean. This is why there will be an The return to “measure” 12 increasing requirement for the contribution of an adequate internal and external communication, Chimotan R3A and Chimoil SU for Floater light which fuels the winning mentality that lies behind 15 constant renovation. This is the philosophy of the Italian company that for years has contributed to innovate the world of leather. ChimontGroup, Made in Italy for Leather. Welcome to LeatherZone. Chimont LeatherZone is a publication conceived and produced by Chimont International Spa and realized with the collaboration of important trade journals, with contributions from technicians and operators within the field of leather. For this issue in particular the editors thank Tecnologie Conciarie and MdP la Conceria for the articles and images they provided. Remo Petroselli Chimont LeatherZone is published four times years and is sent to more than 3,500 operators worldwide. If you wish to contribute to LeatherZone, send your comments, images and articles for publication to [email protected]. To advertise ChimontGroup in LeatherZone, contact [email protected]. Graphic design by ConTesta. © Chimont International Spa. All rights reserved. general manager CHIMONTGROUP IS A CERTIFIED COMPANY UNI EN ISO 9001:2000 AND UNI EN ISO 14001:2004 Chimont 01 leatherZone in vats, with a bath volume that is rather high Of leathers decalcified and can last from 3 to 6 days, according to the with sodium metabisulphite Quantity Time Cuoio “espresso” characteristics desired for the leather. > Water 30% > Chimotan AC 3% 60 min During this phase are performed all the steps of > Formic acid 1% tanning in tubs, beginning with softening tannins Quality and reduced times. > Chimotan QS 5% and ending with astringent extracts, but with working times that are very reduced. > Morning Ph 3,8 3 h The new semi-rapid The advantages of this process are numerous: - Very short working times (3-6 days); > Brain off float process for sole leather. - Qualità that is analogous to leather tanned in > Night automatic rotation > Water 100% tubs; - Weight yield that is equal or greater than that > Formic acid 0,1% The process of leather tanning to realise sole produced generally has only slight astringency of tanning in tubs; > Draining tanned leathers 60 min leather is on of the longest and most difficult due to the quantity of salts that are used in the - A surface appearance that is the same as that > Bath / 16°Bè 50% processes of the leather tanning industry. process, a weight yield that is less than that of of tanning in tubs; Tanning of this kind, in tubs, uses a very ancient tub tanning because fewer tannins are fixed to - High resistence to the absorption of water; > Acacia extract 10% > Brain off float 5 h and traditional technique that calls for the the fibres of the leather, an appearance on the - No use of salts that compromise rigidità; > Bath / 16°Bè 180% workmanship of artisans and long working times. surface of greater wear and tear, due to the - No use of inorganic acids that can cause For this reason, there are few companies in the mechanical action and, finally, that water is able damage to the fibres. > Water 60% world who specialise in the production of sole to penetrate more rapidly through the leather. This tanning system has allowed the creation of > Chimotan BL 1% leather that is tanned in tubs. Almost all of these For some years now, ChimontGroup has new articles that have had great success in the > Acacia extract 10% 24 h companies are concentrated in the areas of Ponte developed a process for tanning sole leather in market, such as, for example, dyed leather for > Quebracho extract 5% a Egola and Santa Croce sull’Arno. vats, called Cuoio “espresso”, which permits heels. The leather for making heels has to have > Softened chestnut extract 10% Tub tanning means having a transformation time the production of a sole leather that is very a very important characteristic, that of obtaining for the leather of some 35 to 40 days, and having similar to that produced in tubs, notably reducing uniformity of the distribution of colorants in all > Softened chestnut extract 5% 24 h large scale facilities that permit warehousing of the working times and increasing the capacity sections of the leather. This process guarantees > Astringent chestnut extract 10% large volumes of liquid tanners. Tub tanning to produce steadily. The key to the Cuoio the result, on black colours (which are the most > Morning / Temperature 38°C 48 h imparts to the sole unique characteristics such “espresso” process is very simple and calls for difficult to make penetrate uniformly) as well as as, for example, a remarkable astringency, a high the use of very little water. Salts that can on the various shades of browns, from “brunette” > Water 70% > Bath at end of tanning 30% weight yield, and an elevated resistance to water. compromise the rigidity and absorption of the to lighter browns. > Chimotan BL 2% 30 min Another system that is used to produce sole leather are not used, nor are inorganic acids that ChimontGroup has invented another solution > Brain off float leather is rapid tanning. Rapid tanning permits can cause acid swelling with irreversible damage that didn’t exist until now: welcome Cuoio > Leathers outside to rest a notable reduction in working times. In fact, it to the fibres of the leather. Once pre-tanned, the “espresso”, the semi-rapid process with working > Pressing dehairing generally takes a maximum of two or three days. hides can even be warehoused for long periods times that are only a little longer than “rapid” > Brain off float Naturally the results are very different in that, without any worries about deterioration. The and a quality that comparable to the complex > Dry retanning with the system of rapid tanning, the leather successive phase is tanning, which takes place and laborious “long” process. Chimont Chimont 02 leatherZone 03 leatherZone that would never be possible to undertake in a company’. the reason I say that this is an excellent idea and a good Marco Gnemmi of Vallero International (a company in start, because every stimulus to innovation is to be Spazio Tech takes off Piedmont that specialises in vats) confirms the interest encouraged. The desire is clearly to move away from in the project: ‘The initiative is positive and more than traditional ways of working towards solutions that are justified, the machines displayed are interesting and more modern and industrial, which, however, should be Extreme innovation. A machine park of the future. demonstrate what is possible. The only doubt concerns evaluated carefully as to their feasibility and connection the site. A space of this kind can should also be a to reality. For example: optimising a productive process by Luca Fumagalli © MdP La Conceria stimulus for encounters between tanners and suppliers, for a million pieces is one thing, but for 20 it is another and Milan is far from the productive districts of reference’. thing entirely’. On the other hand, the association expects Milan, via Trasimeno 8. We are at the northern periphery grain of the hides. The logic behind the equipment is Riccardo Centomo of Bergi (a producer of machinery that companies and technicians will come to Spazio of the city, in a zone that is easily reached by car, bus to improve the result of printing by reducing the waste for tanneries, located in the Veneto) continues along the Tech to test and experiment the potentials of the and underground. We are at the entrance to an industrial of colorants. The technology of another prototype that same line, ‘The inauguration was a sort of open house equipment, without the presence of curiosity seekers warehouse where Unic has created, opened and develops treatments of cold plasma at atmospheric in which the machines were presented, without, however, or competitors. If you want to do that, you have to make inaugurated (this past September 17) Spazio Tech, an pressure can be applied to finished and semi-processed being able to observe their practical operations: this is a reservation and enjoy the demonstrations privately. avant-garde and technological area oriented towards leathers. Finally, there are seven metres of modular the development of productive innovation, equipped machinery for continuous tanning that has an ambitious with every imaginable kind of almost futuristic prototype and futuristic object: to become an alternative to the that, by appointment, can be viewed, tested and used vat, improving the processes and lowering the to obtain new samples.