Banc D'arguin National Park

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Lesser flamingos at the Banc d’Arguin: Hundreds of bird species are attracted by the park’s rich marine life. Banc d’Arguin National Park, aWorld Heritage marine site in Mauritania, is one of the largest protected areas in West Africa

SPOTLIGHT | Outstanding biodiversity Banc d’Arguin National Park:World Heritagemarine siteisway station for migratorybirds Marine site conference sk any bird lover why Banc d’Arguin underscoring the park’s visibility at the operate within the 600,000 hectares of inside the park has been cut by two-thirds. preparedness is essential and should be On Dec. 1-3, Unesco held the first-

National Park was named aWorld highest levels. One former director sub- marine reserve. Site managers work with locals to develop a part of the management plan for all heritage INGE N ever meeting of its World Heritage

A Heritage marine site, and the answer sequently became prime minister, and others However, commercialfishing vessels sustainable management plan for fish sites, Debonnet says. However,adequate AN marine site managers in Honolulu. The

comes easily. Most birders knowthat this have held ministerial rank orserved as direc- from Europe, Japan and Russia are also stocks, inrecognition of thearea’s impor- funding isnecessarytoensure the imple- &V conference, ‘‘Navigating theFuture of 1.2-million-hectare (three-million-acre) ex- tors of key public enterprises. The site’s cur- drawn to the site, and they do threaten the tance as afish nursery. Mauritania derives mentation of disaster planning proposals. Marine World Heritage,’’ brought

panse of terrestrial sand dunes, mangrove rent director, Mohamadou Youssouf park’s ecosystem. Overfishing has become a important annual revenues from fishing li- Oil exploration also means tankers —an- HELLIO together managers of the ‘‘crown swamps, mud banks, marshes and shallow Diagana, is an economist and aformer direc- major threat in recent years, in spite of World censes; the European Union’s most impor- other threat to the site. The international wa- jewels of the ocean,’’ most of whom waters fringing thecoast of Mauritania in tor of the national budget in Mauritania. Heritage status. Adecade ago, industrial fish- tant fishing agreements globally are with ters west of Mauritania’s coast are crossed had never met. Butafter three daysof West Africa is amajor way station for mi- The outstanding biodiversity of the site is ing vessels were operating illegally in the Mauritania. ‘‘Protection pays,’’ notes Araujo. by one of the world’s busiest shipping lanes. shared experience, discussions and gratory birds. More than two millionavian exemplified by some park, and some 400 Oil also pays, and oil exploration offthe The big tankers passing in front of Mauritania group work, participants emerged travelers stop hereeach year: some stay to 250 species of migrat- Oil exploration off the small-scale motorized coast of Mauritania is asecond major threat carry dangerous materials as well as oil. Site feeling they had found aunified force hibernate for the winter, others rest before ing birds, attracted by boats were arrested to the well-being of Banc d’Arguin. Offshore managers are seeking ‘‘particularly sensitive and had gone one step closer toward continuing on their southward journey. the rich marine life just coast of Mauritania is a each year, says Antonio oil exploration isnow under way outside the sea area’’ status from the International Mari- building aWorld Heritage marine site ‘‘Bird migration is one of the most spec- offshore. The shallow major threat to the site Araujo of the Fondation park, but since Banc d’Arguin covers one- time Organization so that shipping lanes can community that would develop a tacular sights of this site,’’ says Guy Debon- waters contain nutri- Internationale du Banc third of the coastline and protects 60 per- be moved further away from the coast. common approach to fight issues net, chief of the Special Projects Unit for Un- tious elements likephytoplankton and d’Arguin, an independent organization work- cent of the most productive coastal habit- Longer term, climate change could have a facing them all: climate change, esco’s World Heritage Centre. Abirder deepwater upwellings that make it ideal for ing with Unesco site staff in Mauritania. ats, it could obviously be affected. Acciden- marked impact on the marine portion of the overfishing, invasive species and himself, he knew about Banc d’Arguin long be- fish breeding. (An upwelling occurs when Back then, the park’s budget was around tal oil spills would have an enormous park. Already, thevegetation —encom- tourism. Fanny Douvère, coordinator fore he started working for Unesco in 2001. nutrient-rich deepwater is driven by natural ¤100,000 ($136,000), so alack of funds impact, cautions Debonnet, with anod to passing 190 plant species —along the of Unesco’s World Heritage Marine ‘‘The whole East Atlantic flyway for migrating forces toward the ocean’s surface, repla- for maritime surveillance was part of the the BP oil spill off the Louisiana coast. coastline has been visibly affected. If the Program, said: ‘‘This is abeginning. birds would be affected if anythingwere to cing the warmer, nutrient-depleted water problem, Araujo says. Today, the park’s an- The advice of the World Heritage Centre ocean temperature changes in the future, the We have along waytogo, but we can happen to this particular site,’’ he adds. otherwise found onthe surface). nual budget allocated by the state ismore is for Mauritania tourge oil exploration consequences wouldaffect the globalfood make changes that will make a Therefore it is no surprise that Banc d’Ar- The rich water nourishes not only fish, than ¤1 million, and the government has farther away from the site and to do an en- chain, from microplankton to migratory birds difference for all of us.’’ J.J. guin —one of the largest protected areas in shellfish, rays and other forms of marine life, donated ¤3 milliontoset up atrust fund to vironmental impact assessment. Disaster to mammalian dietsonland and sea. C.F. West Africa —was inscribed on the World but also five species of dolphins, two ensure long-term financing. Increased fund- Heritage List in 1989 for the significance of threatened species of sea turtles and the ing has meant increased surveillance, which its ecosystems andbiodiversity. Although world’s largest colony of monk seals, the in turn has drivenindustrial fishing boats Mauritania is one of the poorest countries in most endangered species of seal on earth. from the park (although they continue to fish the world, it recognizes the importance of the The biological productivity that draws birds outside its boundaries). Within the park, in- region and had made it anational park in and mammals also attracts local fishermen, tentional fishing of sea turtles has been 1976, 13 years before the World Heritage the Imraguen, whose traditional fishing eradicated; fishing focused on rays and designation. The government officials who methods do not jeopardize the park’s mar- sharks has dramatically decreased. Only have been appointed site directors since ine eco-balance. TheImraguens’ 114 local sailing boats are allowed in Banc d’Arguin; 1989 have all been exceptionally competent, sailing boats are the only vessels allowed to the number of motorized pirogues caught

EXPLORING | Desert and sea Aseashore with solitude, and the journey to reach it ust about anywhere else on the planet, where the only human touch is ahandful of necessities —aswell as entry permits from high-rise hotels, country clubs and tiny fishing villages. the national park service —inNouakchott. J rowdy bars would line this stretch of While splendid isolation is the park’s From the capital, it’s about a250-kilome- coast. But Mauritania’s Banc d’Arguin Na- primary allure, it is also the biggest impedi- ter (155-mile) drive northward along agood tional Park is anything but typical. This is the ment to visiting. Mauritania attracts very few paved road to the park’s southern boundary. western end of the Sahara, where the unre- foreign visitors. As aresult, tourist services Because the highway slants inland, reaching lenting desert tumbles into the sea, apatch in the sparsely populated West African na- the coast requires arough-and-tumble tra- of Atlantic notorious as the birthplace of hur- tion are few and far between. For those with verse of unpaved desert roads. The most TWO HEARTS. REALPRECISION. ricanes and the lastresting spot of many ill- deep pockets, lotsoftime and experience popular is probably the 36-kilometerroute fated ships. driving in deep-desert conditions, hiring a from Chami (where there is agas station) to But for those who crave aseashore with four-wheel-drive vehicle in Nouakchott (the Arkeiss, which lies about midway along the solitude, Banc d’Arguin is nirvana. There capital) is the easiest way to reach andex- park’s 180-kilometer stretch of shoreline. aren’t many equatorial beaches where the plore the mainland parts of Banc d’Arguin. Accommodation inside the park is at only footprints inthe sand were made by fer- Anyone who opts for this do-it-yourself ap- sanctioned community ‘‘lodges’’ withper- al camels, where the offshore waters are as proach will need to outfit themselves with manent tents, often at stunning waterfront unpolluted as they were 100 years ago, and food, fuel, drinking water, GPS and other locations. In addition to Arkeiss, there are tented camps at four other locations, including the sandy peninsula at Iwik and bayside at Tessot. Rates range from about $10 for a Precision, innovation and luxury by Jaeger-LeCoultre small, Western-style tent that sleeps two to three people to $50 for alarge Saharan- If Jaeger-LeCoultre watchmaking Before leaving the manufacture, style tent that can sleep as many as 10. Re- could be summed up in one word, a1,000-hour control policy servations for tents and meals canbemade that word might be ‘‘precision.’’ The recreates the conditions in which ahead of time by contacting park authorities latest Jaeger-LeCoultre models the finished timepiece will be worn. in the capital. Alacarte (primitive) camping showcase its greatest achievements This process lasts six weeks, while within the park is strictly prohibited. in a177-year history, offering the every part of the watch is rigorously Activities inside the park include swim- most complex movements ever tested. The 1,000-hour control ming, bird-watching, dune walking, driving the made. Amovement, or caliber, is the policy has become an industry beach at low tide (the only time when coastal organ that gives life to the watch; benchmark. But now Jaeger- motoring is possible) and visiting the fishing Jaeger-LeCoultre has created over LeCoultre has gone even further. A villages of the local Imraguen people. It’s also 1,000 of them. Caliber makers, also new ‘‘1,000 Hours Chrono’’ label possible to go boating with the Imraguen in called movement-design engineers, adds another validation, entirely their traditional lateen-rigged sailing vessels, produce 12 prototypes for each new dedicated to accuracy. It was either on fishing trips or general exploration of model, and must test them for as developed for the high-precision the islands and sandbanks. History buffs will long as one year. Forty different Master Grande Tradition models. relish the chance to sail the shallow waters crafts and 1,000 professionals AJaeger-LeCoultre Master where the French navy frigate Medusa ensure that each watch is perfect. Tourbillon Calibre 978 watch won the wrecked in 1816, the catalyst for one of the ‘‘Making parts like this, and 2009 Chronometrie International great maritime survival epics of all time. Both putting them on the market, is a Timing Competition, with ascore of inspiring and tragic, the tale has been spun challenge for watchmakers because 909 points out of apossible 1,000. several times, including Jonathan Miles’s ‘‘The you’re creating something nobody In second place was Jaeger- Wreck of the Medusa,’’ which makes great has ever seen before,’’ says LeCoultre’s Reverso Gyrotourbillon 2, reading for anyone visiting Banc d’Arguin. Christian Laurent, master with 908 points. The result certifies For those who don’t have the time or watchmaker in high complications at the Master Tourbillon as the most desert expertise, organized tours can be the Jaeger-LeCoultre. ‘‘But it’s a precise mechanical wristwatch solution. Mauritanie Aventure, for instance, challenge our watchmakers love.’’ made today. J.J. offers guided 4x4 trips that include both the Sahara and Banc d’Arguin. J.R.Y. DUOMÈTRE ÀQUANTIÈME LUNAIRE. Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 381. The Dual-Wing concept is agenuine horological revolution featuring two distinct mechanisms synchronised by asingle regulating organ. The patented jumping stop-seconds function enables time-setting to the nearest 1/6thofasecond. Visit the Tides of Time Web site for videos, interviews and more YOUDESERVE AREALWATCH. information on World Heritage marine sites: whc.unesco.org/tidesoftime/

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