sign in sign up
<<
Home , Alan Yau, Cantonese cuisine, Chinese cuisine, Fat choy, Fermented bean paste, Hot pot

1

TUCO’S GUIDE TO authentic CHINESE

Supported by

CONTENTS

05 / Welcome 06 / Introduction 10 / Vast and Vibrant - A personal view 12 / The Great of 14 / The ’s Perspective 20 / A Snapshot of Experiences 24 / Tour Highlights 26 / Lessons and Learning 30 / About the Chefs 32 / Recipes 80 / Chinese Essentials 82 / Celebrate Food at Chinese Festivals 84 / Chinese Ingredients Explained

GUIDE TO CHINESE FOOD MATTHEW WHITE 05 Welcome to TUCO’s Guide to Chinese Food

I am delighted to welcome you to this new guide tours. Getting out into the field suits our style of to Chinese food by The University Caterers learning; it is important to experience the sights, Organisation. We hope it will fire the imagination sounds, smells and of the countries from of university caterers in the UK and provide which we recruit students and which inform our practical guidance on authentic dishes ever-expanding global food offering. from the world’s most populous nation. This practical guide featuring 23 recipes, The inspiration for the guide was TUCO’s study collated with first-hand accounts of the 2015 tour to China in September 2015, unquestionably tour, is aimed at chefs and catering managers the organisation’s most ambitious to date, which at our universities and colleges. But we hope took in mega-cities such as , the content will also be relevant to our valued and Kong. In terms of food knowledge and partners throughout the public sector, including learning, it was a life-changing experience for all schools, hospitals and local authorities. Chinese of those involved. We genuinely felt compelled food has universal appeal and we feel sure there to share the experience and the culinary insights will be dishes featured here that will appeal to all with our colleagues throughout the higher settings, tastes and serving styles. education sector. We hope you enjoy TUCO’s guide to Chinese China represents one of the UK’s key cuisine and that the recipes featured here will international recruitment markets and TUCO inspire caterers. Get your , and believed it was important to improve collective stockpots to the ready. And, of , “bon understanding of the food, culture and university appetite!” – or, as they say in China: chī hǎo hē hǎo provision of a world superpower whose (吃好喝好). population is fast approaching 1.4 billion. TUCO is committed to learning, developing and MATTHEW WHITE sharing best practice, one of the ways we do this Chair of TUCO, Director of Catering, Hotel and is through our successful programme of study Conference Services, University of Reading GUIDE TO CHINESE FOOD 06 INTRODUCTION Introduction

World cuisine is on the march and university caterers are in the vanguard of innovation.

Just as dining on the High Street is being , the next biggest territory for UK institutions. transformed, the food and beverage offer on campus In fact, the combined number of students drawn is undergoing a food revolution as the explosion of from the other “big five” overseas nations (India, inspires new products and preparations Nigeria, , the United States and at a rapid rate. Special Administrative Region) still trails in the wake Kimchi, falafel wraps and “dirty” burgers are part of the students recruited from the all-conquering of the culinary vocabulary of the new generation of . food-savvy students. Higher education institutions are There is another compelling reason for improving facing greater competition than ever before and need understanding of Chinese food – the UK’s own love to cater to evolving tastes while delivering on quality affair with the country’s cuisine. What is the most and price. popular ethnic food or take-away eaten in the UK? It was with this in mind that The University Caterers , fish and chips, burgers, fried chicken? All wrong. Organisation embarked on a 10,000-mile round trip A 2015 report by market analysts Mintel put to the Far East to examine one of the world’s most Chinese food at the top of the table. Almost four in influential cuisines. The idea was simple: to give five (78%) Brits said they had eaten at catering managers an insight into the food habits and home in the past three months, with 12% eating it at dining preferences of the UK university sector’s single least once a week. Indian food was eaten by 74% over biggest international recruitment market. the same period. The number of Chinese students at UK universities UK sales of soy (4 million kilograms in far outstrips any other nation. According to the UK 2014, up a million kilos in a year) matches sales of Council for International Student Affairs, 89,540 traditional apple sauce and mint sauce. One in 10 of us Chinese students enrolled on undergraduate and drink green at least once a day. postgraduate programmes in 2014-15. That is more Both the scale of university recruitment from China than four times the number of students recruited from and the UK’s insatiable appetite for Chinese food 07 08

‘There were so many lessons to learn in a short period of time, from the complexity of regional cuisines to some simple light-bulb moments. For example, catering managers discovered Chinese students prefer to drink tepid, not chilled, water’

means it makes perfect sense for caterers to expand patisserie and a trendy arts quarter in a former and finesse Oriental dishes. industrial wasteland. This programme of fascinating TUCO’s study tour was designed to increase cultural engagements gave context to the multi- understanding about this key cuisine and participants’ faceted nature of Chinese food. preconceptions about Western interpretations of sweet There were so many lessons to learn in a short and sour chicken went out of the window within hours period of time, from the complexity of regional of landing at Beijing Capital International Airport. cuisines to some simple light-bulb moments. For Only one of the group, organiser Bill Brogan, of example, catering managers discovered Chinese St John’s College, Cambridge, had previously visited students prefer to drink tepid, not chilled, water; many China. Everyone else was overwhelmed by the sheer of them will never have used a knife and fork in their variety of the food, from and braised to lives. The cost of providing chopsticks at UK cafeterias communal hot pots, raw fish, delicate , ducks’ is minimal but it can make a difference to students in blood, fragrant marinades and lip-numbing super- unfamiliar settings, thousands of miles from home. spicy specialities. If there was one overriding message to emerge There was another notable theme: the complete during the tour it was this: the need for food absence of Western food at Chinese universities. It authenticity. Tours of several universities’ catering was only at the end of the trip, at a university in Hong departments, not least Peking University, a world Top Kong, that a sandwich was spotted for the first time. 100 institution, brought home the need for accurately Some of the colourful food experiences are outlined prepared and presented Chinese dishes. in this guide, which seeks to give newcomers a We hope the recipes provided in this guide will provide glimpse of China. workable solutions to producing authentic Chinese The tour also included cultural visits, from the dishes to be enjoyed by international students and UK Great Wall of China and the headquarters of internet diners alike. It is authenticity and value that makes good giant Tencent, to a lavish Chinese-owned French food stand out – and makes students stay on campus. 09 GUIDE TO CHINESE FOOD 10 JULIE BARKER Inspiring. Hospitable. Diverse. Hectic. VAST. Vibrant...

It is impossible to sum up China in one word because there are so many different faces to this sprawling, intoxicating nation.

I was fortunate to be the chair of TUCO when the that we care. It is no longer good enough to serve a proposal to head to the Far East took shape and I was dumbed down, Western version of Chinese cooking. deeply honoured to lead the tour group that flew out to This is very much a two-way street. There are Beijing. On a personal level, I was blown away by the great benefits for the professional development of experience. China really is bigger and better than you UK caterers in engaging more effectively with our could ever imagine. overseas students. Having lived and breathed Chinese The rationale for the study tour was clear and culture, albeit for a short time, I am acutely aware of unambiguous. Anyone who works in higher education the scale of the challenge but I know it is one TUCO will know that China and wider represent the members will rise to. biggest international student market for the UK and it The student experience is key for all institutions is vital that we are able to understand and respond to in the competitive higher education sector and TUCO the needs of people travelling thousands of miles in recognises the need to equip caterers with the skill- pursuit of education and life experiences. sets and knowledge to respond to the needs of our There is growing awareness of the need to provide biggest markets. And they don’t get any bigger than authentic cuisine to show the Chinese community China. 11

I had not anticipated the sheer volume and range of smaller plates for individual dishes rather than piling JULIE BARKER Chinese eating habits as well as the formal structure. everything on one plate, placing chop sticks alongside Former chair TUCO How to introduce yourself and engage with the traditional cutlery, expanding the number of side Director Accommodation community was a key learning point for me. A proper dishes and providing freshly chopped , chillies & Hospitality Service, introduction is very important to the Chinese as is the and other to add flavour to dishes. Small University of Brighton formality of exchanging business cards. This is a very things really can make a big difference. respectful society. We hope this guide provides an introduction to I am sure my colleagues on the trip would agree authentic Chinese food. It is a starting point on our there are some very quick wins for UK caterers evolving journey as we seek to understand, deliver and to woo Chinese diners, such as having separate refine one of the world’s truly great cuisines. 12 The Great Cuisines of China

At a size of 9,596,960sq km, China is slightly smaller than the United States and packs a variety of regional cuisines to match its geographic might.

It is widely accepted that the nation has eight culinary plates and are eaten for or in the traditions. However, by way of introduction it is tradition of (“drinking tea”). Roast and perhaps more useful to get a of the distinctions meats are hugely popular. by looking at the North, South, East and West. In the West, spicy takes its cue Food from the nominal four corners of China from cities such as and . Strong is influenced by geography, climate, culture, use of chillies and lends the food idiosyncratic tastes, ancient recipes and the technical a sometimes fiery, piquant edge and it is the most use of ingredients including oil, , , widely eaten style of food in China. Famous dishes , , , and fish. include mapo (bean curd in a chilli and bean- The southern province and Hong Kong based sauce), and invigorating are home to the Chinese cuisine most familiar to UK Sichuan , where the broth is flavoured with diners – . The dumbed down version of chilli peppers, herbs and other . The West also this delicate, refined cooking style that is frequently includes eclectic and hot and spicy dishes encountered here bears little resemblance to the from (which is actually central). freshness of the dishes championed in mega-cities Eastern China is famed for (named like Guangzhou. is famous for after the cities of Huaian and ), encompassing its dim sum: small snacks such as steamed buns, , and Shanghai. The cooking of , and translucent rolls, which in the south-east, where and soups are big, is are served in steamers or on individual also defined by its distinct food identity. 13

Huaiyang food is famed for and north-eastern seaboard, including , , gastronomic prestige, meticulous skill and freshness , conch, , and sea cucumbers. (xian). Freshwater fish, other aquatic life such as The region’s famous and inform the and , and pork predominate. Slow-cooking palate, finishes are light and crispy, and cooking techniques of stewing and rather than fierce at extremely high temperature (“bao”) is used for frying are popular. The natural flavour of products is non-oily, quick frying. Peanuts, pork and onions highlighted and although the palate can veer towards are prized. As well as roast duck, the northern sweetness it is rarely spicy. powerhouse of Beijing is renowned for steamed and cuisine has a big influence on cooking boiled dumplings (), which are dipped in vinegar traditions in the North and features seafood from the and soy sauce. 14 The Chef’s Perspective

Jet lag was swept aside as Scott Girvan stepped up to the wok soon after TUCO landed in Beijing.

Scott, Glasgow University’s Executive Chef Hospitality The experience at Black Kitchen, and the Services, was the group’s chef representative and tour’s other food excursions and , transformed volunteered for a one-to-one cookery master class at Scott’s view of China and its food. Black Sesame Kitchen, based in a tranquil courtyard “I was naïve and had no idea how modern Chinese near the Forbidden City. cities are, with a mixture of old and new. The cuisine Members of the group took part in a fun lesson is very modern and forward-thinking with a blend of under the guidance of resident expert Chef Zhang. traditional restaurants and street food,” says Scott. Tuition in Chinese cutting techniques introduced three Food lessons included the “supreme” freshness of dishes – jing jiang shredded pork, a leek and lamb produce including and fish. “Everything is almost stir-fry and . alive within the hour of eating, it would seem,” says The sweet and sour dish bore no resemblance to Scott. the gloopy versions served at a English take-aways “Standards of service and politeness are excellent. and packed a punch with Sichuan peppercorns, dried The staff were extremely professional wherever we red chillies, light soy sauce, and caster ate. The differences in regional cooking are huge and sugar. the regions themselves are huge. People eat what Following the group’s mise en place, Scott helped lives and grows in their region. Chef Zhang to cook the dishes and picked up tips he When he returned to Glasgow, Scott set up a focus had never come across during a career in catering – group with the university’s Chinese students. There was for example, the technique of “velveting” the pork loin a candid session and students were asked what they for the jing jiang dish, which involves adding salt and would like to see on the campus menu and invited to water/stock a little at a time while beating the liquid flag up what was wrong with the food. into the meat to tenderize it. The pork is coated in corn “Everyone wanted to see an authentic style of and oil before being fried in oil (which Chinese food,” recalls Scott. “The regional aspect has a high smoke point) at 120˚C. also came up. One guy from the North East of China 15

was adamant, saying, ‘I will not eat chilli, garlic or students recognise from home. A manager at SeeWoo ginger, it’s not from my region.’ But the women from supermarket advised him on the best ingredients for Guanzghou and love chilli. Regionality is Northern and Southern cuisines. strong and that is a big challenge for UK chefs and Scott’s larder now includes six varieties of dried caterers.” noodles, authentic bean pastes and , pork and Scott cooked 10 dishes for an exploratory tasting dumplings, pork steamed buns and session. Some contained fish with their heads on, rice sourced from Hong Kong. others had the heads off. The chef asked the students “Chinese dishes are flying out of the door,” he says. which they preferred. “It was heads off every time – and “I have a theatre wok station and that does on average steamed, not roasted, as it’s easier to eat with chop 150 to 180 Chinese meals per day. sticks. Who would have thought?” says Scott. “There is so much more to Chinese food than The chef has had success making regional Cantonese food. That’s all we tend to serve in the UK, dishes, particularly with the brand of but I would urge university caterers to get out to China ingredients (bean , chilli oil), which Chinese and explore. It is an amazing cuisine.” 16 If an army marches on its stomach, the same could be said of China’s student population.

The catering operation in Chinese universities is There is -style eating on the first-floor with a breathtaking. The TUCO study tour takes in five never-ending selection of dishes, different higher education institutions, all with their with rice, roast meats and noodles, broths and fish own unique character but united by the vast scale of balls, to name just a few. The plates are colour-coded the food and beverage departments and the diversity according to price so customers can make quick of the offer. decisions based on their budget and payment is For sheer “wow” factor, it is hard to beat Peking speeded up. University, situated in Beijing’s Haidian District near The second floor is like a massive street food the famous Yuanmingyuan Garden and Summer market with units preparing fresh food cooked in Palace. The university, rated one of the best in China, woks, clay pots and on hotplates. Trade is brisk at an is hailed for its academic excellence, which is mirrored outlet selling hearty soups such as pork rib and bitter by the scope of its culinary ambition. melon, pigs’ trotters and soya beans, and chicken and Each day, the university serves 47,000 . . The dishes cost 50p-55p. A new outlet In the central canteen visited by TUCO, there are 350 selling quick-fry meat and vegetable dishes is very regional dishes for lunch, which starts at 10.30am. popular and the heat level is very high for some of the About 10,000 students dine at the three-storey Nong spicy dishes. Yuan canteen and dishes start from the equivalent of 5p. Nong Yuan also has a large restaurant with smart 17 18 19

waitress service. This is the place to dine for speciality the catering department at Sun Yat-sen University Beijing duck and lunch might cost £5 per person, feeds 50,000 students and 30,000 academic staff. A expensive by campus standards. The average cost of a further eight hospitals are attached to the institution. is nearer to £1 as opposed to a UK equivalent of One of the seven restaurants caters for Muslim diets £4-£6. A plate of roast duck, rice, greens and a bowl of while the others tend to focus on one or two regional soup is about 60p. cuisines. The only obvious food failure is an attempt at With its Subway, and Délifrance Western-style food. Just as Chinese students may concessions, and its sandwiches, and gelato, be baffled by the Chinese food offered at UK halls of Hong Kong University (HKU) undoubtedly comes residence, a Peking University interpretation of pizza, closest to anything resembling a UK university but groaning under pineapple and thick peppers, raises a the differences remain marked. The commitment to wry smile. product and service innovation is also strong. The TUCO tour also takes in Beijing Normal HKU’s 31 catering outlets, the majority of which University, which specialises in teacher training. are run by private operators, turn over $1 million Yunhai Xu, general manager for catering, provides a a month. The eating areas vary from 100sq ft jolting insight for English visitors accustomed to the “grab-and-go” kiosks to a large 8,000sq ft canteen. Cantonese-dominated Chinese food served in the The most popular outlet is the 300-seat Union UK. Of the main eight Chinese cuisines, he says the Restaurant, which serves Hong Kong dishes, noodles “essentials” are Sichuan, Shandong and Yunnan. Mr in soup, , a Chinese barbecue, made-to-order Xu says: “We don’t bother with Cantonese. That is for a and, unusually, pasta dishes. Specials niche audience.” at Maxim’s include Japanese, Thai and Vietnamese Ever wondered why Chinese students are dishes. unimpressed with a breakfast service featuring cereal, Healthly-eating and waste-cutting initiatives are toast and a bacon ? It may have something to do high on the agenda including a “less rice” campaign. with expectations about a typical breakfast at Beijing Chefs recognised that portions are too large for Normal which comprises steamed dumplings, buns, some students. Now customers can ask for less rice soups and , a slow- to and get a reduction in the cost of their meal. At the which condiments such as pickles, chillies, peanuts, buffet-style vegetarian outlet Bijas, helpings of tofu, fried onion and fresh herbs are added. Chinese fungus and Chinese cucumber are sold by Unlike the UK, a large number of students eat all weight to combat over-eating and waste. their meals on campus due to convenience and price. HKU is at the forefront of digital food ordering and Food costs are underwritten by the state and catering payment. Caterers have their own apps designed for outlets do not have to return a profit. campus outlets. Students can order in advance and More than 1,100 miles to the south, in Guangzhou, settle up electronically at an automated pay station. 20 A Snapshot of Food Experiences

There were so many food highlights of the TUCO study tour of China, but here are just a few to provide a glimpse of the extraordinary diversity of the country’s culinary experience

TUCO_Recipe Book_210x210.indd 20 06/01/2017 12:14 21

HaiDiLao Hot Pot, Beijing Shuntong Rainbow Trout Breeding Centre, Huairou District, north-east of Beijing This cavernous Sichuan-style hot pot restaurant opens 24 hours a day. Diners can get a manicure while they For many delegates, this was the food highlight, not wait for a table – there is a no-reservations policy – and least due to the simplicity of the preparation and customer service is very high. Strips of meat, fish and service – and the beautiful location, close to the vegetables are cooked quickly in communal, burbling dramatic Mutianyu section of The Great Wall of China. stock pots placed in the centre of tables. Guests are Three varieties of trout – rainbow, golden and provided with aprons to encourage slurping. shannu – shimmer in the centre’s large pools, which , a chain comprising 137 outlets and are fed by crystal clear spring water. Rainbow trout is more than 20,000 employees, split opinion but its the most plentiful and work well roasted, barbecued, popularity among the Chinese, particularly young, braised and lightly steamed for soup. Golden trout, cool consumers, is undeniable. The group opted for a characterised by firm meat, is superb eaten raw with double-flavour hot pot featuring a spicy broth, made wasabi sauce. with Sichuan beans and pepper, and a mild seafood Dining at Shuntong is all about the freshness and broth. Raw ingredients are ordered from the menu and quality of the fish, which guests are invited to catch cooked by customers in the stock. with nets from the pools. Intrepid TUCO members The group tried fish balls, balls, crushed attempted to land a couple of sturgeon to complement prawn, strips, asparagus, seaweed and Chinese the trout. These giant, pre-historic looking fish lend cabbage as well as more challenging specialities such as themselves to slow braising with plenty of to cow stomach and ducks’ tongues. The menu is vast, from counteract what can be a “muddy” taste to the flesh. swine throat and layered beef to black fungus and While some of the trout were barbecued in the heat green . Ducks’ blood, which comes in blocks, is of the midday sun, guests retired to the restaurant the most popular ingredient and in 24 hours this single for a parade of delicious dishes including restaurant serves more than 2,000 customers. and chestnut in a , a of free range Cooked items are dunked in dipping sauces that chicken (the bird, naturally, was killed that morning), customers are invited to put together to suit their tastes pepper leaves in light and creamy tofu. The fish, at a self-serve area. The huge array of ingredients though, was the star of the show including platters of includes fried chilli oil, sesame blended oil, fermented incredible sashimi-style golden trout. bean curd sauce, peanut kernals, dried scallop and It is impossible to estimate the cost of such a meal shitake, XO sauce, crushed garlic and herbs. For in the UK but the bill, including beer, was less than drama, noodles are made at customers’ tables. £10 per person. 22 23

Taste of Yunnan restaurant, Guangzhou Beijing Duck at Jing Yaa Tang, Opposite House Hotel, Sanlitun, Beijing Yunnan, in the South West, is the country’s most diverse province and is home to 25 of China’s 56 ethnic groups. Bordered by Burma/, and , it One of the must-try dishes in Beijing, roast duck has a rich culinary tradition, the best of which can be sampled at Taste of Yunnan. at Jing Yaa Tang is raised to a level of extreme Specialist food importer/exporter Grace Zheng Jiao, who has five restaurants refinement. This sumptuous restaurant, designed by in Guangzhou (population 11 million), laid on a banquet for 22 guests including acclaimed restaurateur Alan Yau at the super-cool TUCO delegates and Chinese food managers. Incredible food was accompanied Opposite House Hotel, features a glass-fronted area by dancing waiting staff in colourful native costume and copious shots of black where diners can watch the expert chefs roast the truffle wine. The 13-course feast included two yak meat dishes (marinated and ducks in wood-fired ovens. dehydrated), Dai-style roast chicken, with pu’er black tea, sautéed Yunnan It takes about an hour to cook each bird at 200˚C. pumpkin and wild mushroom with minced pork spring rolls. Dai is a distinct spicy The restaurant serves 40 duck each day, all carved and sour cuisine within Yunnan and is flavoured with chilli peppers, , at the table and served with light pancakes and lemongrass and lime juice. condiments including spring onion, melon, fried The black tea for the seafood dish is soaked in water, dried and deep fried. One onion, cucumber and a duck sauce with flavours of of the Chinese dignitaries told the TUCO members: “If you put this on your menus, date, mint and honey. A whole duck costs about £32. students will know straight-away it is from Yunnan. If by chance they are from Yunnan, it will remind them of home.” Asked how UK caterers could make food more appealing to Chinese students, the chef delivered one of the best pieces of advice: “Give them a taste of home. Everyone wants a taste of home.” During a discussion, the Chinese catering bosses were asked to name their top five store cupboard ingredients, citing rice, oil, flour, pork and chillies. They were also asked how UK chefs can replicate yak. The answer? “You don’t. You get yak.” 24 Tour Highlights

TUCO’s 2015 study tour of China took in a dazzling array of attractions highlighting the best of the nation’s culture, education provision, food and hospitality.

From a tranquil rural trout farm and the majesty of the Great Wall of China to the bustle of Hong Kong and its breath-taking views from The Peak, delegates were given a whirlwind glimpse of the heritage, booming present and incredible potential of this global powerhouse. Here is a list of some of the places of historic and cultural interest visited by the group and some highlights of the magical food experience. If, or rather when, you go to China, be sure to put some of them on your itinerary and you will not be disappointed. 25

Beijing Shenzhen Places of interest: Places of interest: • Peking University • Tencent (internet and social media giant) • Beijing Normal University • M63 French patisserie • Great Wall of China, at Mutianyu • Dafen oil painting village, Shenzhen • Tiananmen Square • Hutongs (traditional courtyards and Restaurants / hotels: neighbourhoods) and Back Lake District • Congee restaurant in the Loft Area • World Trade Centre • Seafood Street, Luhuo District – fish restaurants • Xinming indoor food market • The Old House (Sichuan restaurant), Overseas • 798 Art District (large cultural area) Chinese Town • Sanlitun Village Restaurants / hotels: Hong Kong • Temple Restaurant, Dongcheng District • Black Sesame Kitchen, East Jing Shan Park, near Places of interest: Forbidden City • Hong Kong University • Cool restaurant, • The Peak 798 Art District • Kowloon • Shuntong Trout Raising Centre and Restaurant, • Central district Huairou District • Brickyard Eco Retreat, Mutianyu Restaurants / hotels: • Hai Di Lao Hot Pot • Tea House, Stanley Street, Central • Jing Yaa Tang restaurant, Sanlitun Village • The Lookout Restaurant, The Peak • The Flying Winemaker, wine tasting at Wyndham Street, Central Guangzhou • NUR, Lyndhurst Terrace, Central • Market restaurant at Hotel ICON, Kowloon Places of interest: • Lingnan (University) College and teahouse • Sun Yat-sen University • Affiliated Foreign Language School of SCNU Restaurants / hotels: • Taste Yunnan restaurant 26 Lessons and learning: TUCO catering managers reflect on China

It is time to dispel misconceptions and embrace the flavour, passion and variety of Chinese food. 27

Sandra Duncan Louise Sherratt Head of Campus Services Catering Operations Manager Edinburgh Napier University University of Birmingham

I had a stereotypical perception of Chinese food before the The biggest food lesson for me was the variety of trip, largely based on everything I have eaten in Chinese the food. Chinese food is the most varied I have ever restaurants or from take-aways. I thought Chinese seen. It is amazing how all the flavours change from food came with rice, not a lot of vegetables other than province to province, such as Sichuan and Hunan, and , peppers, beansprouts, onions or anything the diversity of the ingredients, which are so fresh. that can be stir-fried. I was aware our Chinese students Everything looks so appetising. like to pick more than one dish, mainly hot dishes, and Food plays a big part in . Meals don’t seem to eat much cold food such as salads. are shared and they are treated as social gatherings. Having seen the Western offer in some of the large Flavour, choice, culture, variety, passion and a modern university refectories, it became very apparent they twist were all big lessons for me. had similar misconceptions about what we like to eat. UK caterers need to forget about sweet and sour When we saw their interpretation of fish and chips and chicken and . We need to try and embrace pizza, we realised we were also making assumptions and replicate authentic Chinese flavours to give us a about the food we think our Chinese students want to distinct edge in the market. eat – and are getting it very wrong. Following the trip, Birmingham has introduced There are so many regional variations in cuisine a style of authentic takeaway meals at one of our and it has a bearing on what Chinese students like to coffee shops, which attracts high volumes of Chinese eat. Many of the students at my university come from students. We have started selling authentic Chinese Hong Kong, which is much more Western and multi- cold drinks: aloe vera, soya with balls, soya cultural in terms of food than mainland China. drink and Chinese . We are also looking at a If your university recruits mainly from one region vacant space with the idea of investing in a complete in China, find out about its food and culture – and stay Chinese-related food offer. We already offer congee, away from stereotypical Westernised Chinese food. It Oriental-style and Chinese meals. doesn’t really exist in China. At Edinburgh Napier, we have made small changes to our catering offer so far including providing warm water, chopsticks and smaller snack-size mix-and- match dishes so Chinese students have more variety rather than traditional British set meals. 28

Gavin Brown Keith Williams Head of Commercial Services Head of Trading, Kent Hospitality University of Sheffield University of Kent

Before I went, I was told I would struggle to find I had heard scare stories about some of the unusual anything edible and should pack lots of Mars Bars. things the Chinese like to consume. When the Chinese How wrong this turned out to be. The food in China joked that they “ate anything with legs other than a is wonderful and varied, very delicate with lots of table and anything with wings other than a plane” it vegetables. Many dishes, especially fish, were poached turned out to be accurate. or braised and infused with light flavours. The food There were many food lessons for me such as the was not battered, deep-fried or stir fried – very importance of , congee for breakfast, the different to Western versions. diversity of cuisine from across the country and the At Sheffield, we have introduced noodle pots absence of and dairy. offering two flavours, mild and hot, with broth The freshness of the produce was summed up at powders. We have also designed a new café where a food market we visited in Beijing: the huge variety the majority of students are Chinese. This is our of fruit, vegetables and spices; the smells and the International College and we have blended fusion- leaping fish; freshly butchered meats, black chickens, cooking stations into the counters alongside espresso every bit of imaginable – and boxes of frogs and coffee – think Wagamama crossed with Costa. We turtles staring up at you. won the CUBO best university catering award for this The study trip has been the catalyst for change at design and concept in 2016 and it was based around the University of Kent. We have introduced a new wok my experiences and learning from the China trip. bar in our main cafeteria and produce our menus in In China, I was also impressed by levels of personal photographic versions as well as written description to hygiene, such as mouth guards and nose guards help international students. There are free chopsticks worn by the serving staff to avoid food contamination. in all our main dining areas. Authentic Chinese I spoke with some of the Chinese students and staff ingredients are purchased for our main international who confirmed they would not eat food if a server was restaurant and we have improved the variety of soft not wearing protective clothing. drink options. We encourage the personalisation of menu items according to taste. 29 30 ABOUT THE CHEFS

Selecting the recipes for the book was a daunting task. After all, where do you start with such a vast and varied cuisine?

It was decided to focus on dishes that could be practically delivered in UK university for significant numbers. There was no point in choosing recipes if chefs would find it impossible to source the ingredients. The TUCO team also thought it was vital that the dishes would be recognised as authentic by Chinese students. The overriding aim was to give UK chefs the knowledge and insight to create the flavours and textures of that would give Chinese campus diners a comforting taste of home. Chinese food expert Bill Brogan, catering and conference manager at St John’s College, Cambridge, and China specialist Jinzhao Li agonised over the final list and settled on a selection of dishes that represents a cross-section of the nation’s food. The dishes were recreated at the University of Birmingham, where cooking duties were performed by Mark Houghton, executive chef at the University of Birmingham, and Graham Crump, group executive chef at the University of Warwick. The team was assisted by Rob Bean, of Leicester University, and Richard Narramore and Aaron Tong of Exeter University. 31

33 Recipes

34 / Seaweed and egg soup 36 / Stir-fried eggs with chives 38 / Guangzhou stir-fried rice 40 / Steamed sticky rice with pork 42 / Sweet and sour aubergines 44 / sliced noodles 46 / Spicy noodles with soybean paste 48 / Simmered with mooli 50 / Cabbage with sweet and sour sauce 52 / Smashed fresh cucumber with mashed garlic 54 / Steamed pumpkin with minced pork shoulder 56 / Sauteed sliced beef with hainan green beans 58 / Ma-po tofu (with pork) 60 / Stir-fried duck strips with onion 62 / Pork belly with cauliflower 64 / Stir-fried courgettes with marinated pork 66 / Stir-fried lotus roots with pork and tofu 68 / Sweet and sour pork with pineapple 70 / Tofu mixed with chopped spring onion 72 / Hakka aromatic chicken 74 / Braised aubergine with chilli and potatoes 76 / Paper tofu in sauce 78 / Sichuan twice cooked pork with wood ears 34 SEAWEED AND EGG SOUP

INGREDIENTS METHOD 75g Seaweed 1. Soak the seaweed until it becomes soft and tear 250g Eggs it into small pieces. 3oz Chopped spring onion 2. Whisk the eggs. 4litres Water 3. Boil the soaked seaweed with some . 4g Salt 4. Pour in the egg liquid and then add the chopped 6g White sugar spring onion. 5g 5. Serve straightaway.

Note: Keep stirring whilst adding the egg. 35 36 Stir-Fried Eggs with Chives

INGREDIENTS METHOD 700g Chives 1. Chop the chives to 6cm long. 400g Eggs 2. Beat up the eggs and seasoning. 5g Salt 3. Stir-fry the eggs until cooked. 7g White sugar 4. Stir-fry the chives. Add to the eggs and stir-fry. 30ml Vegetable oil Note: Do not overcook 37 38 GUANGZHOU STIR-FRIED RICE

INGREDIENTS METHOD 800g Dry Rice 1. Steam the rice until cooked. 50g Shrimps 2. Dice the shrimps, pork and . Whisk the eggs. 50g Siu – (Marinated, Roasted Pork) 3. Add half the eggs to the rice. Season with salt and 100g mix well. 100g Carrots 4. Sauté the shrimps and pork. 100g Eggs 5. Blanch the peas and carrots and drain. 5g Chives 6. Stir-fry the rest of the eggs until half cooked. 5g Salt Add the mixed rice and stir-fry until dry. Add the 10ml Vegetable Oil , pork, and peas. 10ml Reduced Vegetable Stock 7. Stir-fry until cooked and aromatic. 8. Check seasoning.

Note: Sprinkle with chives before serving. 39 40 Steamed Sticky Rice with Pork

INGREDIENTS METHOD 800g Pork (Minced) 1. Squeeze the pork into balls (30 balls). 600g Sticky Rice 2. Soak the sticky rice thoroughly. Drain and mix 200g with cornflour, salt and seasoning. 4g Salt 3. Cut the tofu skin into 3cm x 3cm square, fry until 10g Cornflour golden. Place on the plates. 20g 4. Coat the in sticky rice. Place on the 2 Spring Onions, to tofu skin. Put the balls in a steamer for about 10 minutes until cooked.

Note: The sticky rice must be thoroughly soaked 41 42 SWEET & SOUR AUBERGINES

INGREDIENTS METHOD 1.1kg Aubergines 1. Peel and slice the aubergines 150g Minced pork (1.5cm x 1.5cm x 8cm). 5g Mashed garlic 2. Fry until cooked and golden. 15g Diced fresh ginger 3. Saute the garlic, ginger, fish, salted fish sauce and 5g Salt . 7g White sugar 4. Add the vegetable stock and thicken with cornflour. 5g Salted fish (or fish sauce) 5. Simmer the fried aubergines in the sauce. 5g Fermented bean paste 6. Sprinkle with chives. Check seasoning. 5g 7. Spoon the sauce around the aubergines. 3g Dark soy sauce 8. Serve. 150ml Vegetable stock 10g Cornflour 10g Chopped chives 43 44 SHANXI SLICED NOODLES

INGREDIENTS METHOD 1kg Plain flour 1. Add water and flour into a bowl. Mix until a 300g Water smooth is formed. 400g Pork bone stock 2. Stir-fry the eggs with the finely chopped pop 20g Salt pepper until scrambled. Bring the pork bone stock 8g Shi sanxing (13 spices) to the boil and add salt and Sanxiang to adjust the 50g Chopped spring onion seasoning. 20g Chopped coriander 3. Slice the dough into ribbons (directly into boiling 800g Eggs water). 50g Pop pepper 4. Drain the noodles and put them into serving bowls 100g Deep fried peanuts 5. Add the seasoned bone stock, and sprinkle with chopped spring onion, coriander and deep fried peanuts.

CONTAINS PEANUTS 45 46 SPICY NOODLES WITH SOYBEAN PASTE

INGREDIENTS METHOD 800g Dry Rice 1. Cook the noodles. 2.5g Noodles 2. Briefly refresh the cooked noodles in cold water 300g Pork Belly and then set aside. 50g Carrot 3. Dicethe pork belly and keep separate. 50g Cucumber 4. Dice the carrot,cucumber, king trumpet mushroom, 100g King Trumpet Mushrooms black fungus and pressed tofu. 100g Black Fungus 5. Saute the pork belly until the fat is cooked. 50g Pressed Tofu 6. Add the other ingredients to the pork. 20g Pop Pepper 7. Add the sweet soy bean paste and other 5g Salt ingredients and season. 50g Vinegar 8. Add the noodles to the dish, stir to coat the 50g Soy bean Paste noodles. 100g Chilli Oil 9. Check the seasoning. 30g Paprika 10. Serve. 47 48 SIMMERED BRISKET WITH MOOLI

INGREDIENTS METHOD 800g Brisket (or Sirloin) 1. Cut up the moolis. Slice the brisket. 700g Mooli 2. Season and simmer the brisket with chilli sauce, 50g Garlic, Chopped soy sauce, bay leaves and star anise. 8g Salt 3. Add the mooli and garlic and simmer. 20g White Sugar 4. Check seasoning. Add the rest of the ingredients. 10g Oyster Sauce 5. Stir. 10g Brown Sugar 6. Serve. 2 Bay Leaves 2 Star Anise 20g Soy Sauce 50g Chilli Sauce 50ml Vegetable Oil 10ml Reduced Chicken Stock 49 50 CABBAGE WITH SWEET AND SOUR SAUCE

INGREDIENTS METHOD 1.2kg Fresh red cabbage 1. Shred the cabbage. 100g Garlic, mashed 2. Mix the rest of the ingredients together. 5g Salt 3. Add the cabbage to the rest of the ingredients. 3g White sugar 4. Serve in a bowl. 2g Chicken stock 10ml Vegetable stock CONTAINS . 50g White vinegar 10g Chilli oil 20g Peanut oil 50ml Vegetable oil 51 52 SMASHED FRESH CUCUMBER WITH MASHED GARLIC

INGREDIENTS METHOD 1.2kg Cucumber 1. Wash and dry the cucumber. 30g Mashed garlic 2. Smash the cucumber with a rolling pin. 20g Coriander stalks 3. Add the salt, vegetable stock, sugar, vinegar, chilli 10g Shredded red pepper oil, sesame oil and mashed garlic. 6g Salt 4. Smother the cucumber and mix them evenly. 5ml Vegetable stock 5. Add the coriander stalks and red pepper. 10g White sugar 6. Serve. 15g Vinegar 20g Chilli oil Note: This should not be made too far in advance. 20g Sesame oil CONTAINS SESAME. 53 54 STEAMED PUMPKIN WITH MINCED PORK SHOULDER

INGREDIENTS METHOD 1.5kg Pumpkins (peeled) 1. Wash the pumpkins, seed then slice. 250g Pork, minced 2. Cut into thick wedges. 10g Salt 3. Mince the pork. 10g Fried mashed garlic 4. Season the pumpkins with salt and bean paste. 20g Bean paste 5. Place on a tray. Sprinkle with the pork, garlic 10ml Vegetable oil and vegetable oil. 6. Steam the ingredients together for about 10 minutes. 7. Serve. 55 56 SAUTEED SLICED BEEF WITH HAINAN GREEN BEANS

INGREDIENTS METHOD 1tbsp Chopped garlic 1. Heat wok, add ½ vegetable oil and then cook 300g Green beans the beans for around 7 minutes. 300g Beef Sirloin 2. Remove beans, wipe out wok, reheat, add rest 50ml of vegetable oil. 1 tbsp Chopped ginger 3. Fry garlic, ginger, spring onion, chilli. 1tbsp Dark soy sauce 4. Add beef, cut into strips – fry. 1tbsp Light soy sauce 5. Mix soy sauces, rice wine and sugar, add to wok. 4 tbsp Vegetable oil 6. Add the beans back to the wok. 2 Dried red chillies 7. Add black pepper. 1 spring onions 8. Serve – garnish with spring onions. ½ tbsp Granulated sugar 10g Black pepper 1tbsp Hot sesame oil 2 Spring onions for garnish 57 58 Ma-Po Tofu (with Pork)

INGREDIENTS METHOD 1kg Tofu 1. Dice the tofu into big pieces. 200g Pork 2. Mince the pork. 50g Diced pickled vegetables 3. Blend the tofu with water and salt, and then drain. 20g Spring onion 4. Saute the peppercorn oil, fermented bean sauce, 5g Salt pork and pickled vegetables. 5g Light soy sauce 5. Add about 150g water. Season and thicken with 5g Fermented bean sauce cornflour. 5g Sichuan peppercorn oil 6. Add the tofu and simmer at low heat until the 10g Red chilli oil juice has evaporated. 10g Cornflour 7. Drizzle with the red chill oil. 150g Water 8. Check seasoning. 9. Serve. 59 60 STIR-FRIED DUCK STRIPS WITH ONION

INGREDIENTS METHOD 450g Duck breast, cut into strips 1. Marinate the duck in the seasoning. 700g Onion, cut into strips 2. Roll the duck in half the cornflour. 100g Red and green chillies, cut into strips 3. Saute the duck, stirring quickly. Drain. 5g Mashed garlic 4. Saute the mashed garlic and ginger. 15g Grated ginger 5. Add and stir-fry the onion. 10g Salt 6. Add the duck strips and white wine. Stir-fry 10ml Duck stock thoroughly and season. 20g Cornflour 7. Thicken with the hot stock and the cornflour. 20ml White wine Check seasoning. 10g Black pepper 8. Serve.

CONTAINS ALCOHOL. 61 62 PORK BELLY WITH CAULIFLOWER

INGREDIENTS METHOD 450g Pork belly 1. Trim the pork (4cm x 2cm x 0.2cm). 800g Cauliflower 2. Cut up the cauliflower. 10g Garlic 3. Marinate the pork with salt and light soy sauce 2 Spring onions until the colour changes. 20g Salt 4. Saute the pork. Remove the pork from the pan. 20g White sugar 5. Blanch the cauliflower. Keep al dente. 15g Light soy sauce 6. Refresh. 30g Starch 7. Heat the oil. Saute the garlic and spring onion. 20ml Sesame oil 8. Add the cauliflower and pork. Stir-fry. 50ml Vegetable oil 9. Season. Thicken with starch. 10. Drizzle over a little oil. 11. Serve. 63 64 STIR-FRIED COURGETTES WITH MARINATED PORK

INGREDIENTS METHOD 800g Courgettes (Ribbons or Slices) 1. Blanch the courgettes, refresh. 450g Marinated pork loin 2. Saute the meat. 20g Chopped red pepper 3. Add the chopped green and red pepper, garlic, 20g Chopped green pepper spring onions and courgette. 20g Garlic, chopped 4. Thicken with cornflour. 3 Spring onions, chopped 5. Check seasoning. 5g Salt 6. Serve. 7g White sugar 20g Cornflour 50ml Vegetable oil 65 66 STIR-FRIED LOTUS ROOTS WITH PORK AND TOFU

INGREDIENTS METHOD 800g Lotus roots 1. Skin, slice and blanch the lotus roots. 450g Marinated pork slices 2. Sauté the pork slices. 5g Mashed garlic 3. Stir-fry the garlic, and tofu. 5g Salt 4. Add the lotus roots and meat to the garlic and tofu. 7g White sugar 5. Stir-fry until cooked and aromatic. 3 Small pieces fermeted tofu 6. Check seasoning. 10ml Vegetable oil 7. Serve. 67 68 SWEET AND SOUR PORK WITH PINEAPPLE

INGREDIENTS METHOD 450g Pork Belly 1. Dice the pork belly. 1 Egg 2. Whip the egg white with salt. Blend with the 250g Pineapple – fresh, cut into strips cornflour. 150g Red & green peppers cut into strips 3. Toss the pork through the cornflour mixture and 50g Onion, cut into strips deep fry the pork. 8g Salt 4. Fry the onions, pepper and then add the pineapple. 20g White sugar 5. Pour in the sweet and sour vinegar sauce, add the 500ml Prepared sweet and sour vinegar juice pineapple, peppers, onion strips and fried pork. 150g Cornflour Check seasoning. 30ml Vegetable oil 6. Stir-fry them evenly. 7. Serve. 69 70 Tofu Mixed with Chopped Spring Onion

INGREDIENTS METHOD 1.4kg Fresh Tofu 1. Soak the tofu and cut it into square dice cubes. 5g Caraway Seed 2. Mix the rest of the ingredients together to make 30g Chopped Spring Onion the dressing. 5g Salt 3. Grill the tofu quickly, cool down and add the 2g White Sugar seasoning, sesame oil and spring onion. 15g Sesame Oil 4. Do not break up the bean curd. 25g Peanut Oil 5. Serve.

CONTAINS PEANUT OIL AND SESAME OIL 71 72 HAKKA AROMATIC CHICKEN

INGREDIENTS METHOD 450g Chicken thighs (Skinned and boneless) 1. Stir-fry the salt. Add the ginger slices, bay leaf, 200g Onion sliced Chinese liquorice, aromatic ginger and nutmeg. 500g Salt 2. Rub the chicken with the salt and leave for 50g Ginger, slices one hour. 2 Bay leaves 3. Wash off the salt and dry. 2g Chicken liquorice 4. Steam or bake the Chicken. 5g Aromatic ginger 5. Cut the onion into slices and place on the plates. 2g Nutmeg 6. Cut up the chicken, dress with the ginger slices, 20g Corriander bay leaf, Chinese liquorice, nutmeg, and garnish with the corriander. 7. Serve. 73 74 BRAISED AUBERGINE WITH CHILLI AND POTATOES

INGREDIENTS METHOD 500g Potatoes 1. Wash potatoes, cut diagonally. 400g Green peppers 2. Wash and deseed the green pepper. 40g 3. Wash the aubergines. Cut off the head and base. 5g Garlic Cut diagnonally. 3 Spring onions chopped 4. Fry the potatoes at low temperature until golden 6g Salt and cooked. 20g White sugar 5. Fry the aubergines at higher temperature. 20g Chu-hou paste 6. Saute the garlic and spring onions add the pepper 10g Oyster sauce and stir-fry. 2g Dark soy sauce 7. Add the aubergines, potatoes, chu-hou paste, 10ml Vegetable oil oyster sauce and some water. Simmer at low level. 8. Simmer until thoroughly coated. Season and wait until the juice thickens.

Notes: The potatoes must be fried at low heat. 75 76 PAPER TOFU IN SAUCE

INGREDIENTS METHOD 1kg Paper tofu 1. Cut the sheet of bean curd into rough shreds (8cm 5g Salt x 0.5cm x 0.5cm) and quickly boil them, then drain. 3g White sugar 2. Mix the rest of the ingredients together in a bowl. 20g Peanut Oil (hot) 3. Loosen up the tofu by tossing lightly. 20g Chilli Oil 4. Mix the tofu with the ingredients in the bowl. 10g Mashed garlic 5. Serve. 10g Chopped ginger 2 Spring onions chopped CONTAINS PEANUT OIL. 1 Finely chopped chilli pepper ½ ltr Liquid stock 77 78 SICHUAN TWICE COOKED PORK WITH WOOD EARS

INGREDIENTS METHOD 450g Pork belly 1. Marinade the pork belly for about 30 minutes with 50g Green and red chillies the salt, bay leaf and star anise. 150g Dried wood ears 2. Steam until cooked. 100g Garlic sprouts 3. Cut the pork belly into 5cm x 2cm x 0.2cm slices. 50g Dried red chilli 4. Chop up the green and red chillies in to the pork. 4 Spring onions 5. Colour the pork belly with soy sauce and fry at high 15g Chopped garlic temperature without drying the meat. 50g Fermented bean sauce 6. Blend in the wood ears. 20g Salt 7. Saute the garlic, spring onion, fermented bean 10g Soy sauce sauce, garlic and pepper. 50g Red chilli oil 8. Add the wood ear and pork belly and stri fry until 10g Vegetable oil cooked. 10g Cornflour 9. Season and thicken with cornflour. 1 Bay leaf 10. Add and stir-fry the soy sauce and red chilli 3 Star anise pepper oil. 11. Check seasoning. 12. Serve. 79 GUIDE TO CHINESE FOOD 80 Black Sesame Kitchen Chinese Kitchen Essentials

This list of ingredients is suggested by Black Sesame Kitchen, a cookery school in Beijing, visited by TUCO 81

The Basics: Broad bean paste Chinese black vinegar Salt, white pepper and chicken bouillon (yan, (douban jiang) (cu) bai hujiao fen, jijing). These ingredients are A fermented broad bean and chilli paste. The Shanxi and Zhejiang are famous for used in most dishes for basic flavouring. best brand comes from a county in Sichuan their vinegars. White pepper is more common in China than called Pixian. It is the main seasoning for black pepper. dishes like and Twice Cooked Pork. Sesame oil (xiang you) White sugar , sauces, etc: Best bought fresh. In Bejing, vendors sell (bai sha tang) Cooking oil (chaocai you) freshly ground sesame oil in local markets. Chinese cuisine uses caster sugar not only Most Chinese dishes use peanut oil It is used as a flavouring. for sweet dishes but for balancing flavours (huasheng you) or (dadou you). in many dishes. Caster sugar typically melts You can use any oil with a high smoke point, Sweet paste faster than granulated sugar, but either such as peanut, soy, vegetable, canola, corn (tianmian jiang) works fine. or sunflower. A sauce made from fermented often used as a dip for raw vegetables and roasted Leek, ginger, garlic Cooking wine duck sauce. (cong, jiang, suan) (liao jiu) Most Chinese dishes use at least two or all The higher-grade rice wine is called huadiao. Rice three items, so cooks often call them out It is available in the liquor section of Chinese (dami) together like a rhyme. grocery stores. At a pinch, sherry, white Chinese rice is typically short grained, wine, or beer also work. The Shaoxing area white and sticky. Sichuan Spices outside Shanghai is famous for its wines. It Dried whole chilli peppers (gan lajiao). is usually used with meat for better flavour. High gluten flour If you’re into Sichuan cooking, buy these (gaojin mianfen) peppers by the “jin” (half kilo). They provide Soy sauce The gluten lends a chewiness to the dough the spicy (“la”) flavour. (jiang you) that makes it ideal for noodles Soy sauce comes in different forms in China, and dumplings. Sichuan peppercorns including lao chou (dark soy sauce, for (huajiao) its dark colour) and sheng chou (light soy Corn starch A numbing spice used often in Sichuan sauce, for its flavour). (dianfen) cooking, it provides the numbing (“ma”) Used for thickening sauces, “velveting” flavour. It is a type of citrus berry and adds meat, coating, dusting and battering. lots of flavour. www.blacksesamekitchen.com 82 Celebrate Food at Chinese Festivals

Chinese festivals provide a superb opportunity for UK caterers to showcase food to students from Eastern Asia. 83

Laying on traditional dishes and speciality treats dinner, fish is synonymous with the Chinese saying provides a comforting taste of home. And who doesn’t “ nian you yu”, meaning “may the year bring like to celebrate, especially when food is involved? prosperity.” Families serve a whole fish, symbolising Running special menus to coincide with festivals unity, often steamed with ginger and a light soy is a great way of winning over trust and encouraging sauce. Leaving leftovers for the next day signifies Chinese students to try out campus catering outlets. that prosperity will overflow. It also makes sense from a home student perspective. • Rice (tang yuan) – eaten in southern A report by market analysts Mintel in 2015 revealed China on the morning of the first day of Chinese one in five Brits who have used an ethnic restaurant New Year but eaten elsewhere during the Lantern or take-away say menus celebrating cultural events Festival (the 15th day of first lunar month – February appeal to them. 11 in 2017). These balls, either filled , or Spring Festival, is the most (with bean paste, brown sugar, fruits and nuts) or important festival, comparable to Christmas Day in the unfilled, are cooked in boiling water. West. With a history stretching back 4,000 years, it is a • Spring rolls (chun juan) – filled with fresh time when families get together and the festivities last vegetables and other ingredients to welcome the 15 days from the 1st to 15th day of the first lunar month. new spring. The colour from deep-frying means the The lunar cycle dictates when Chinese New Year rolls look like miniature gold bars. falls, so the day changes each year. It is usually • (niangao) – glutinous rice powder is between January 21 and February 20 in the Western cooked by frying, , stir-frying or boiling. calendar. Each year is named after an animal. • Laba congee – this popular rice porridge, associated For 2017, Chinese New Year falls on January 28 – with the Laba Festival, includes different kinds of and it is the Year of the Rooster. The holiday period is rice, red beans, nuts, meat and bean curd. January 27 to February 2. (In 2018, Chinese New Year is February 16 and the Dog takes centre stage.) The Mid-Autumn Festival, which falls on the 15th day of The best way to wish someone Happy New Year is the 8th lunar month, usually in mid-late September, is “Gong Xi Fa Cai” (in Mandarin) or “Gong Hey ” widely regarded as the second most important festival. (in Cantonese). It is a time to celebrate family and peace as a full moon signifies togetherness, prosperity and happiness. There are key foods The most popular food is the moon cake, a smooth, for New Year including: sweet pastry with a dense filling such as red bean or • Dumplings (jiao zhi) – the major food in the North paste, fruit, green or chocolate tea. There of China on New Year’s Eve, often eaten at midnight. are also savoury fillings and salted duck eggs are a The ingot shape signifies wealth. speciality. Moon cakes are given to friends, relatives • Fish (yu) – essential for the New Year reunion and colleagues as gifts. 84 Chinese Ingredients Explained 85

Soy Sauce Wood Ear or Chinese Black Fungus Tofu Sheets Is made by fermenting cooked soya beans, Grown on old damp wood. Soak the dried Known as one hundred leaves or “thousand sometimes with wheat, adding mould spores ones in hot water. They mainly come from sheets” and then immersing in brine. It breaks down Yunnan Province. They are ivory coloured. They can be used to the proteins, giving the flavour. wrap chopped foods into parcels. Sesame Oil Light Soy Sauce Toasted sesame oil has a dark, caramel Tatsoi or Chinese Flat Cabbage Is made from the first liquid run off colour and is used in very small amounts. It Very popular in Shanghai. It is a leafy dark from fermented soy beans. It has a thin is added to the dish at the end of cooking. loose, flower like cabbage consistency and is very salty. Shanghai noodles Winter Melon A speciality, rarely seen elsewhere similar to Huge Melon – dark green skin with a thin Glutinous rice wine with a distinctive amber Japanese noodles frost like coating and pale flesh used in colour known as “yellow wine” in Chinese. It soups and braised dishes has been made for 2000 years. Silken Tofu Is made from unpressed curds and has a Five Spice Powder delicate milky consistency (known as “Bean Well-used in Southern China Taro is like This seasoning is usually made from spices flower”). a white, slippery and is boiled or including sichuan pepper, cassia bark, star steamed. Use gloves when peeling, and pick anise and seeds. (It does not have to Firm Tofu the smaller ones if possible. be 5 spices) Known in Chinese as “Dry Tofu” it is made by pressing the curds extract and has a cheese like texture. It can be sliced and An intense salty-savoury flavour, dried stir-fried. shrimp come in two broad sizes: tiny, pale, paper-thin shrimp; and pinker, more substantial shrimp.

The University Caterers Organisation 20 Dale Street Manchester, M1 1EZ Tel: 0161 713 3420 www.tuco.ac.uk

Photography by: Richard McCoomb, Creative Camera & Shutterstock