• CULINARY HISTORIANS OF NEW YORK• Volume 14, No. 2 Spring 2001

CHNY Steering Committee THE CULINARY BOOKSHELF 2000-2001

Chairperson: Phyllis Isaacson A Gracious Plenty relief program for unemployed Vice-Chairperson: Stephen by John T. Edge writers and newspapermen (virtually Schmidt (G.P. Putnam’s Sons, 1999) no women had editorial jobs at that Secretary: Lois O’Wyatt time in history). The writers project Treasurer: Lee Coleman REVIEW BY JEANNE LESEM was part of President Franklin Members-at-Large: Roosevelt’s New Deal program Wendy Clapp-Shapiro, VER the years many designed to spur recovery from the Membership cookbooks have featured Depression. Most of its publications Helen Studley, Programs the cooking of the were guidebooks to the (then) 48 John W. R. Jenkins, Publicity O American South, but none so mem- states. America Eats was never pub- orably as this one. The recipes are lished in its entirety. The Mississippi a walk down memory lane for findings were published in a 1997 CHNY Information Hotline Southerners, no matter where they folklore journal, and the Library of (212) 501-3738 live now. And the anecdotes and Congress and various state libraries stories surrounding the recipes are share repository responsibilities, as fascinating as a good novel in according to Edge, who is director CHNY Newsletter: which descriptions of food and of the Southern Foodways Alliance Editor: Helen Brody drink consumed move the plot of the Center for the Study of Copy Editor: Karen Berman along in ways that dialogue cannot. Southern Culture. As Ellen Rolfes writes in the Stories and reminiscences cited Please send, fax, or e-mail all epilogue, “A good cookbook is a in A Gracious Plenty came from newsletter correspondence to: storybook compiled to document a many people, including Ed Scott, Helen Brody time and place … No matter what an African-American catfish farmer PO Box 923 the food or the meal or the in the Mississippi Delta, who 19 Trillium Lane circumstance, when two or more writes of feeding Freedom Riders Grantham, NH 03753 are gathered at the meal table, we during the 1960s. Others include [email protected] are connected—to the past, to one bluesman B.B. King, who shares (603)863-5299 another, and to the future.” memories of the feast that he and (603)863-8943 Fax The title is a genteel Southern other sharecroppers enjoyed on term for “I’m all full up,” as in “I’ve Sundays; author/editor Roy CHNY encourages the had a gracious plenty, thank you,” or, Blount, Jr. who recalls his mother’s submission to the newsletter of put another way, it means “an gravies; and author Shelby Foote, articles relating to culinary elegant sufficiency.” Most of the who reminisces about the Hot history, member news, and other recipes are drawn from community Tamale Man, who brought a taste pertinent information. Articles cookbooks, but a few came from of home to Mexican migrant should be no longer than 1,500 research for America Eats, a book- laborers in the Mississippi Delta’s words. The editor has the right length survey compiled by the cotton fields. to edit for length, clarity, Federal Writers Project between The community cookbook accuracy, and punctuation. 1935 and 1942. During that time, recipes are almost invariably the federal government ran a work- Continued on page 2 Bookshelf, from page 1 attributed to individuals; and tend to reflect local, regional, and per- TRAVELER’S JOURNAL sonal eating habits and preferences. For Yankees and others who may not speak Southern culinary Of Creole Sauce, Mountain language, there’s a useful glossary that demystifies such things as Chicken, and Cannibals... alligator pears AKA avocados (so- By Millie Delahunty called because of the fruit’s reptil- ian skin) and butter beans (limas). VACATION spent sailing speaking and, because we knew One quibble: the Key Lime Pie with friends affords an only a smattering of French, recipe on page 288 inexplicably interesting perspective on flexibility in food shopping turned ignores the classic recipe using A an area’s people, food, and out to be essential. Produce, even condensed milk, a recipe that was economy. Usually, we charter a including the local bananas, was in developed in the Florida Keys. In 44-foot boat and sail about the poor condition. Packaged cold cuts the days before good refrigeration, region, visiting various islands and and cheeses did have “sell by” dates families relied on canned milk points of interest. For this trip we on them, so we felt safe with these. because they had no way of had decided upon Guadeloupe and Milk came in aseptic packaging, as protecting fresh dairy products the neighboring islands of Les did orange juice. Bottled water was from spoilage in the hot climate. Saintes and Dominica. Christopher available in suspicious abundance, Warning: you’ll need a bright Columbus discovered Guadeloupe together with beer (German, light and a magnifying glass to read on his second trip in November, American, and Jamaican), and some of the small print in the boxes 1493, naming it in honor of Our wine. Since we planned to eat most labeled “Our Southern Receipt.” Lady of Guadalupe de Extre- meals ashore, we bought only the Printing them on a white back- madura to thank her for protection everyday necessities, snacks, and ground would have helped a lot. during a storm on his first some canned tuna. The book was written for the expedition. Guadeloupe is actually Our first meal in Guadeloupe Center for the Study of Southern an archipelago of islands at the was at La Bananeraie. It was highly Culture, which was founded at the peak of the arc formed by the recommended by the French University of Mississippi, in 1977. Lesser Antilles, between the charter staff as having both good The Southern Foodways Alliance Caribbean Sea and the Atlantic and typical Creole food. With is a newly formed institute of the Ocean. The principal island, reservations for seven o’clock, we CSSC; the Alliance publishes a Guadeloupe is made up of two set out in our rental car and found quarterly newsletter, the Southern parts, Grande-Terre and Basse- the restaurant on a dark, not too Foodways Register. For membership Terre. well-paved, road in Sainte-Anne, information, go to the website: Grande-Terre, to the east, is east of the marina. From the www.olemiss.edu or Email mostly flat with a dry climate and outside it appeared unpromising, [email protected]. Additional has sugar plantations which sort of a run-down, beaten-up, old- information can be obtained from produce sugar with a light taste of fashioned American roadhouse. www.southernfoodways.com. molasses. The harvest is still Inside, we found an elegant air- Jeanne Lesem, a freelance jour- transported by oxen-pulled carts. conditioned interior and a courtly nalist and author, was the first food Basse-Terre, to the west, is waiter who spoke some English and editor of United Press International. mountainous and volcanic with was very knowledgeable and helpful Her most recent cookbook, Preserving abundant rain all year, tropical about the food, which turned out to in Today’s Kitchen, won a James forests, and banana plantations. be refined Creole. We also found Bear Foundation Award when first The active volcano, La Soufriere, that we were unfashionably early, published as Preserving Today. towers above Basse-Terre. since no one else arrived until after Guadeloupe is French- 8 p.m.

2 For a starter, we had accras— The next day found us on our crisp crust, and cake. Picture a tart hot fritters made from cod and a way to Les Saintes, a small about three inches in diameter, dough. These are common in the archipelago of nine islands six with four layers, all no more than islands with a variety of miles south of Guadaloupe. We one half-inch thick. First comes a ingredients; they might be fish or sailed to the island of Terre de very short pastry crust, then a vegetable, and once, to our regret, Haut and landed our dinghy near syrupy coconut layer, followed by a were just plain dough. Our seafood the town of Grand Bourg. We pastry cream layer, with a final entrees came with purées of four walked by street vendors selling all topping of a lady finger cake. I was local vegetables; migan (breadfruit, sorts of spices and fruits, many of told that the syrupy coconut takes which was mashed with bananas); them unfamiliar to us. We did three hours to prepare. The tarts “yams,” a delicious green mixture recognize local nutmeg still reminded me of shoo fly pie, for which we couldn’t understand wrapped in its delicate lace netting, having the same very sweet and the explanation (but which was peppercorns, and hot peppers. filling attributes. probably partially the young leaves Dinner that night was at Though we had enjoyed Nilce’s of dasheen, a spinach-like Nilce’s Bar on the ferry pier. The Bar, we decided the next night to vegetable); and plaintain. The set menu included blackened tuna try Les Amandiers on the town seafood itself had a “Creole sauce,” (with the ubiquitous Creole sauce, square. One choice on the menu which was milder and thinner than this time a bit thicker because it was Poisson en Court Bouillon. one would expect, and had no was emulsified), an excellent salad Rather than a whole fish, we were tomatoes, but plenty of garlic. (unusual since greens do not keep served slices of a white-fleshed fish, “Creole sauce” turned out to be well in hot weather), and pigeon cooked in broth with onions, different on each island, probably peas (another local vegetable). garlic, lemon juice, and a bit of because of differing ethnic Dessert? We decided we had to chopped chili pepper. Those of us heritages. Of course, dessert had to have Tourment D’Amour Tarte who ordered tuna were served it be banane flambée, ripe bananas (Torture of Love tart), which we with a spicier Creole mix than we baked in the oven, placed under had been told was made only in had previously tasted. Also the broiler to color, then doused Les Saintes. There are various available was Colombo Sauce, with rum and lit at the table. The versions under different names similar to a curry sauce with a bit only one of us who had room for among the islands, all containing more of a “kick.” this impressive dessert declared it some or all of the components of Our sail the following day was excellent. this specialty—custard, coconut, to Dominica, not to be confused with the Dominican Republic. Dominica is an island unique in its lushness and natural beauty. Its mountains are the highest in the Caribbean; its evergreen oceanic rainforest is one of the last in the world. Although the official language is English, most Dominicans speak a French patois among themselves. Blue Bay, a beachfront restaurant just across from our mooring, had been recommended to us. At dinner there was a choice of the usual tuna, conch, and “seafood,” which probably was a local fish known as dorado. Our waitress was the Continued on page 4

3 Journal, from page 3 owner and the chief cook. Everything was prepared to order Cookbook Conservation and excellent. Our one regret was that we didn’t have the local Committee: Campaign Update lobster; we discovered that the only HE October dinner, featuring Chef Rocco DiSpirito, organ- couple eating it had called ahead ized by pastry teacher and cookbook author (and collector) and had it caught to order. T Nick Malgieri and Committee Chairman Of most interest on Dominica Andy Coe at the James Beard Foundation. is the 3,700 acre Caribe Territory, raised $10,000 toward the New York Public home to descendants of the Carib Library Cookbook Conservation Fund. Indians. The Caribs migrated from Using the money raised as seed money, South America to Dominica via the the CHNY Steering Committee is other Windward Islands, ousting researching the setting up of a special the Arawaks who had arrived by account to which members as well as the same route about 1,000 years those outside the organization may make earlier. The Caribs were feared by contributions. Europeans because of their reputed Members willing to assist with the project are asked to call cannibalism. It may be apocryphal, Phyllis Isaacson (212) 675-4984 or Andy Coe (718) 797-0029. but the Caribs were even said to have a taste preference. Frenchmen —Andy Coe, Chairman were the most delicious, followed by the English and Dutch, while the Spanish were considered julienned hot peppers. Then came creole sauce was mostly hot stringy and almost inedible. a platter of delicious deep-fried peppers with vinegar and bit of oil. Although, mainly agriculturists, chicken quarters accompanied by Our little-bit-of-English-speaking they still produce baskets woven so freshly baked baguettes. The waitress informed us, with tightly from grass that they are perfectly prepared chicken had appropriate gestures, that one put waterproof, canoes, and other been marinated overnight in a the ingredients together and went traditional items. Also grown are secret sauce, then fried in zssst! (A blender, perhaps?) citrus fruit and carambola, which extremely hot oil. When all the Accompanied by very thin, were at least three times the size, marinated chicken was gone, the delicious French fries and the sweeter, and less seedy than those restaurant closed for the day. largest salad we’d had, our last we’ve seen in the United States and Though we did not have it, meal turned out to be excellent. made a refreshing snack. “mountain chicken” (crapaud), is On my return home, I located The rainforest in Morne Trois reputed to be very good. It’s really a recipe for Tourment D’Amour Pitons National Park, in the south a very large frog (one eats only the Ta r t . And yes, it does call for central portion of Dominca, legs) which may be trapped only by cooking the coconut for almost contains plant life that will amaze natives who have permits, and only three hours in sugar syrup. you—from giant ferns and hanging in certain seasons. orchids to sweet-smelling wild Back in Guadeloupe selecting Millie Delahunty, owner of ginger. a restaurant for our last dinner was Microwave Cuisine, is a microwave- Not far from the Park, we had difficult. There was a choice of a and-conventional food consultant, a grand lunch, prepared while we pizzeria (serving ham-and- specializing in microwave recipe waited and enjoyed watching the pineapple pizza, and other avant- development. She has been published songbirds flying in and out of the garde types), several seafood in Cooking Light magazine and restaurant. As there was only a places, a creperie, and a deserted Publications International, Ltd, and is single menu, one just asked for Thai coffee shop. True to form, we the author of six microwave cookbooks lunch. First we were served a chose a seafood restaurant where and two texts on teaching microwave vinegary slaw, which contained we once again had tuna. This cooking.

4 on, were extremely limited. He asked us, for instance, to imagine IF YOU MISSED THEM… an America that had no dairy products and very little meat to eat (cattle), no vegetable cooking oils The Wines of The tasting concluded with NV (olives), no tequila (distillation Thomas Jefferson Blandy’s 15-year-old Rich Malmsey techniques), no citrus (lemons, Madeira from Portugal, typical of limes, oranges), and no wine. HIRD president of the the fortified wines so favored in When the Spanish introduced United States, author of the T America during Jefferson’s time. these foods and others to the New Declaration of Independence, —Doris Weisberg World and in turn brought New originator of “the pursuit of World foods back to the Old happiness” notion, architect, World, the change in cuisines inventor, musician, and much Old World in the New: around the globe was epic. more, all describe Thomas Food Introduced to the He went on to cite the Jefferson. He was also a great lover Americas from Europe Strawberry Synergy as an example of wine. The Wines of Thomas of how cuisine continued to Jefferson was the title of the UCH has been made of the change. Despite attempts by October 17, 2000, CHNY meeting Columbian connection. As M botanists to make it bigger, the held at the Mount Vernon Hotel food historians we all know that petit fraise de bois had remained Museum & Garden. Linda G. before Columbus bumped into petite. But during the 18th century, Lawry, director of the America on his way to India, there two strawberry plants from the International Wine Center, was no such thing as tomato sauce New World—a small uninteresting described Jefferson’s great passion for pasta in Italy, no potatoes in one from Virginia and a big, for wine and revealed that he was Ireland, no turkeys in France to insipid, “waterlogged” one from known to spend up to $3,000 of his grace the tables of kings. They all the Pacific coast—were installed annual $25,000 income while were unheard of in Europe until nearby some petit fraise de bois President of the United States on Spanish explorers brought them plants in the Jardin des Plants in wine alone, which he imported back from their adventures in the Paris. The strawberry plants cross- from Europe. New World. But we pay less pollinated and produced the fat Lawry described Jefferson’s attention to the foods that traveled and flavorful strawberry that was three-and-a-half month wine tour in the opposite direction. On a the progenitor of the strawberry through France and Italy in 1787, cool, mid-November evening, that we know today. shortly after he had been appointed Raymond Sokolov set the record After the Q and A that Commissioner to the Court of straight. followed, we had an opportunity to Versailles. Traveling alone, He was introduced by Helen polish off what remained of the incognito and sometimes through Studley, Program Chair, who Old World foods that Spain difficult terrain by mule, Jefferson pointed out that the cheeses, introduced to the New World. sampled wines from vineyards serrano ham, chorizo, almonds, —John Jenkins which still produce some of the filberts, olives, and wine we world’s great wines. enjoyed upon our arrival at San CHNY members participated Martin, the mid-town restaurant Christmas Pudding and in tasting wines from vineyards that hosted the event, were all the Venerable Pudding Jefferson probably visited, foods unknown in pre-Columbian Traditions beginning with a German Riesling America. Looking like a dapper and including a Bollinger Daumier sketch of Mark Twain, 1638 recipe for Fond Champagne, wines from Burgundy Sokolov began by painting a APudding made with veal, and Rhône, a Tuscan Chianti picture of a 15th-century world spinach, parsley, sugar, and dates Classico, and a Chateau Lagrange where food choices, no matter shaped into small pear-shaped from St.-Julien, Bordeaux, France. which side of the Atlantic you lived Continued on page 6

5 Missed, from page 5 Cuban Cooking, morsels was just the beginning of a Then and Now splendid talk and tasting of the UR January 2001 pudding tradition given by event, held at All Stephen Schmidt at All Souls O Souls Church to the beat Church on a chilly December 18, of Cuban music, had 2000. some people dancing in The Fond Pudding was the aisles. The display of followed by a Hasty Pudding (1758 yucca, plantain, recipe), then a Rice Puding in pineapple, drums, and Gutts (recipe circa 1650), a rice banners, the aroma of pudding stuffed into intestinal tostones, margaritas, casings—in other words, a rice yucca fritta, croquettes, pudding sausage. and black bean salsa, Next was a Lord of Devonshire with generous offerings Pudding, a bread pudding with L to R: CHNY secretary Lois O’Wyatt, Cuban of Bacardi rum, left no currants, dates, and marrow, dated program speaker Olga Rigsby, and CHNY program doubt that this was a 1604; a Sweet-meat Pudding con- chairman Helen Studley. celebration of Olga taining candied citrus from a 1758 Hernandez Rigsby and Vicky slides of family members and recipe; and a Cranberry Dumpling Rigsby’s love for the food and friends, excursions to open air or Grunt from an 1833 recipe. people of their native country. markets, paladares—makeshift The grand finale was a While Olga recalled old-time restaurants set up by enterprising gorgeous Christmas Plum Pudding culinary feasts and traditions, many Cubans in their own homes— that Stephen flamed as the entire going back to colonial times, Vicky, the joy of shared meals, were a group launched into a rendition of who visits Havana periodically, touching tribute to the spirit of the We Wish You a Merry Christmas. provided an insider’s view of the people the Rigsbys left behind. Everyone left this CHNY current Cuban food scene. Her —Helen Studley Christmas meeting deliciously full of pudding and holiday spirit. —Doris Weisberg

WEBSITES COMMITTEES Membership: Wendy Clapp-Shapiro ([email protected]) Send out welcome packets, welcome new members Our website column will be continued in the next issue. Newsletter: Helen Brody ([email protected]) Please E-mail interesting “finds” to Write book reviews, lead articles, new member news [email protected] Nominating: Phyllis Isaacson ([email protected]) Assemble annual ballot for Steering Committee

Program: Helen Studley ([email protected]) Engage interesting speakers

Publicity: John W. R. Jenkins ([email protected]) Establish contacts to publicize the organization

6 Anne focuses on two facets of food writing: trying to get a certain MEMBER PROFILE amount of information across to the reader in the easiest possible way (recipe writing) and the ANNE MENDELSON importance of food as part of the fabric of society. She worries that by Beth Crossman the recent increase in restaurant fantasy food cookbooks has HE more cookbooks get discouraged home cooking, and published, the less that the whole agricultural cycle of Tcooking gets done.” growing food has become remote Anyone who reads food magazines in the lives of most Americans. can quickly pinpoint Anne “People are ignorant of things no Mendelson, a founding member of cookbook can fix,” says Anne. the Culinary Historians of New York, as the author of this quote. Beth Crossman is a food writer and When she married Martin Iger cookbook author who was an editor-at- and moved to New York City in large at Henry Holt & Co., Inc., for 1972, she made a career choice that © Martin Iger eleven years. During that time she did not seem an obvious one at the and a steady procession of new acquired Stand Facing the Stove. time: she brought her academic editors. Colleen Mohyde, her She is now a freelance editor. training, keen mind, and incisive fourth editor, inherited the wit to bear on the field of food manuscript and after going to work writing. for agent Doe Coover, sold the Previously, she had taught book to Henry Holt & Co. in Closing May 31, 2001: Medieval English while working 1992. In 1996, Stand Facing the Dining In, Dining Out for her Ph.D. from Bryn Mawr Stove was published to universal New Jersey Historical Society College. Since the early 1970s acclaim. “Anne Mendelson is a An exhibition exploring how were not boom years for new sensitive and careful chronicler of a diners, ethnic communities, and Ph.D.s, she followed a long-held remarkable family, [and] of The Joy local produce growers have desire to write and accepted a job of Cooking as an emblem of spawned a culture of dining with Kirkus Reviews. After three American civilization,” said The traditions that have knit New years on the staff there, she moved New York Times Book Review; Jersey’s ethnic communities on as a freelancer and began “wonderfully entertaining,” said together. Along with the diners, writing cookbook reviews for Bon Smithsonian magazine. the importance of church Appetit. She also worked at Cuisine, Her next big project, a history suppers, firehouse dinners, and and in the last few been writing of food in New York City from taverns are all examined. The cookbook reviews and articles for 1624 to 2000, is being published by interactive exhibition feature Gourmet magazine. William Morrow & Co. in 2004. historic and contemporary In 1981, she wrote an article In September, she was named a photographs, oral history about the 50th anniversary of The fellow of the New York Public recordings, video clips and Joy of Cooking for Cuisine magazine Library’s Center for Scholars and hands-on activities to draw and became interested in Irma Writers, a position she holds until visitors into these areas of dining Rombauer and her daughter May. The center provides the experience that are germane to Marion Rombauer Becker. Little, fifteen annually named fellows with New Jersey’s culinary landscape. Brown and Company accepted her a large private suite of offices on proposal for a book on the the second floor of the library with 52 Park Place, Newark, NJ Rombauers in 1985. Then computer facilities and easy access (973) 596-8500 followed long years of research, to the collections.

7 Andrea Cohen reports that she recently stayed at the Whistler MEMBER NEWS Chateau in Whistler, BC. She stayed in the “Elite Gold” section and rated the food, service, and Ronnie Alejandro returned from Studies at Brooklyn College with accommodations as excellent. the Philippines, where he launched an emphasis on Food Studies. Her Although it came in second in two books. They are Pasig: River of thesis was titled “Consuming Skiing Magazine’s report, she Life and Selyo: Philippine History on Passions: Essays on Food in thought it surpassed the a Postage Stamp. He also intro- History, Literature, and Culture.” publication’s first pick, the Westin duced them to the U.S. at the Resort and Spa. Philippine Center in Manhattan. Helen Brody’s columns on seasonings are published in Bunny Crumpacker’s children’s Alice Baldwin reports that she newspapers in New Hampshire and book, tentatively titled Supposing, is attended the one-day conference Connecticut and on cheftalk.com. scheduled to be published by titled “Rice as Self” at the Japan Her Cheftalk column, “Savor the Dutton Books this spring. Society in December and found Flavor,” is ranked among the site’s Crumpacker is the author of The the program informative and the top ten most-read links. Old Time Brand Name Cookbook and food excellent. Old Time Brand Name Desserts. Elizabeth Crossman reports that Both books are based on old Karen Berman was recently those who were too busy during cooking pamphlets— issued from named a contributing editor to the holidays to read Gourmet 1875 to 1950—and include original Wine Enthusiast Magazine. Her magazine should unearth it from illustrations, quotations from the articles on food and culture have their stack of magazines and turn pamphlets, adapted recipes, and appeared in Techno-Culinary News to page 152 of the December issue. text about the periods in American and Vertical.net’s Foodservice Anne Mendelson’s article,“The food history that the pamphlets Central, food traveler.com and Meal as Mirror,” which documents represent. other publications. the importance of food in the writings of Charles Dickens. She Lynn Fredericks received a Helene Berson has completed her asserts that every morsel has $90,000 sponsorship from master of arts degree in Liberal historic meaning. Reynolds Kitchens for a national rollout in 2001 of the AIWF Dinner Party project she piloted in 2000. The project involves IN MEMORIAM classrooms of fourth and fifth graders in public school, Scouts, Marilyn Einhorn, a founding member of CHNY, died December and Boys and Girls Clubs. 8, 2000, after a short illness. Those of us who had the pleasure of Participants plan a dinner party knowing her miss her inquiring mind and enthusiasm for every with and for their parents, design project she undertook for CHNY. Like her husband, Larry invitations, plan a healthy, Maxwell, who died in 1991, Marilyn’s contributions to our ethnically diverse menu, and learn organization were largely behind the scenes. She was host of the table etiquette. Their lessons CHNY book discussion club, which met monthly at their culminate in a dinner party cooked Greenwich Village apartment to talk about books whose subjects by the kids, assisted by their ranged from cannibalism to more conventional topics. After her parents, in the school cafeteria. retirement from one of New York City’s first HMOs, she began a Restaurant chefs are assigned to second career as a mail-order bookseller who specialized in rare each party as “coaches.” Julia Child and out-of-print books about cooking and culinary history. is the national spokesperson and —Jeanne Lesem Lynn is the project director. In February Lynn launched the

8 Family Chef’s Institute at Professional-level courses are for print, Internet, and marketing Wegmans, a famed upscale designed for those aspiring to projects. She can be reached at supermarket chain. The Institute careers as professional chefs, [email protected] offers family cooking classes. It is bakers, caterers, restaurant piloting them in the Princeton, NJ, managers, restaurateurs, food Bookseller Ben Kinmont Wegmans’ store monthly through stylists, food writers, and published a Holiday List of 2001, with a plan to expand consultants. Courses offering a Gastronomy called “Eat, Drink & corporately in 2002. This project Certificate of Completion include Be Merry. The books spotlight helps parents expand their culinary the 25-session Master Class in wine and cookery – subjects that repertoire, broadens the palates of Cooking, the 15-session Master appeal at any time of year. He can children, and encourages sit-down, Class in Baking, the 10-session be contacted at his website homemade, healthy family meals. Professional Catering Master www.bkinmont.com or (917) 690- Class, and the five-session 4326. Gary A. Goldberg, executive Professional Cake Decorating director of the New School Master Class. Other courses Jacqueline M. Newman spoke Culinary Arts Program, announces include the two-session about Chinese food publications in the opening of its state-of-the-art Professional Food Styling the United States by Chinese facility for cooking and baking Workshop and a variety of business authors at the International classes at The Inn on 23rd Street and management classes. Conference of Chinese in Manhattan’s Chelsea area. He The New School Culinary Contributions to America. She notes that the new location Arts Program’s executive and reports that it was a packed house “emphasizes our commitment to administrative offices have also of doctors, lawyers, and architects, providing the best in adult relocated to 127 West 24th Street, among many other professions, education, in a congenial, 4th floor, New York, NY 10011. who all conveyed a love and comfortable and intimate setting. Phone: (212) 255-4141; e-mail: interest in food. She also spoke at Only one class takes place at a time [email protected]; Web site: the Smithsonian Institution on —and quality rather than quantity www.nsu.newschool.edu. ancient Chinese foods and cooking is emphasized.” beverages. Jacqueline is the editor The new state-of-the-art The 2001 Smithsonian Folklife of Flavor and Fortune, the only kitchen features a sleek mix of Festival on the Mall in English-language publication in professional and high-end home Washington, D.C., features New the United States about Chinese equipment. The adjacent separate York City. Annie Hauck-Lawson, food. Fork, Fingers, & Chopsticks dining room enables students to coordinating scholar for Foodways calls the magazine “exemplary” critique and enjoy the food they of the New York City program while Appetite, the outstanding have prepared in quiet comfort and reports that individuals who make British journal about food research, understated elegance. The New their daily bread largely through recommends it to its readers as a School offers a comprehensive various aspects of the NYC food source of ideas. The quarterly is in culinary arts program including world are poised to present food its eighth year of publication. A courses in cooking and baking, crafts that reflect a slice of year’s subscription costs $19.50 and wine appreciation, culinary history, contemporary life in our fair town. can be had by sending a check career training, culinary events and The festival takes place June 27– made out to the magazine or its walking tours. More than one July 1 and July 4–8. parent organization, ISACC (the hundred different courses are Institute for the Advancement of offered by professionals Former CHNY Chairman, the Science and Art of Chinese representing a wide range of Tamara Holt has left her job as Cuisine). For articles and recipes culinary experience and cuisines. food editor at Redbook magazine published in past years, visit Classes are offered seven days a and has moved to San Francisco. www.flavorandfortune.com and week during morning, afternoon, Currently, she is freelancing as a consult the indices. Many book and evening hours. food writer, editor, and consultant reviews and a few restaurant Continued on page 10

9 Member News, from page 9 Andrew Smith’s introduction to He continues to teach culinary The Centennial Buckeye Cook Book history at the New School and reviews are posted on the site, as was recently published by Ohio serves as editor for the University well. For information, contact State University Press. The Peanut: of Illinois Press’ “Food Series” their editorial staff by fax at: (631) A Culinary History of America’s First (and yes, he is looking for good 265-9126. Snack Food is scheduled for works to include in the series). publication by the University of Finally, he says, “I am deep into Peter G. Rose, author of The Illinois Press next year. Paperback writing The Turkey: A Culinary Sensible Cook: Dutch Foodways in the editions of Pure Ketchup: The History of America’s Favorite Bird Old and the New World gave a History of America’s National and collecting material for books lecture and a hands-on food Condiment and Popped Culture: A on tuna, bananas, and salsa.” preparation workshop in March on Social History of Popcorn in America “Early Dutch Cooking in the are about to be released by the Hudson Valley” at the Elmendorph Smithsonian Institution Press. Inn, Red Hook, New York.

Give to a Friend: A CHNY Membership Application

At monthly meetings, the Culinary Historians of New York explore the historic, esoteric, and entertaining byways of food. These events are led by noted historians, authors, anthropologists, and food experts, many of whom are CHNY members. Membership benefits include advance notice of all events, a membership directory, and the CHNY Newsletter with culinary history articles, news of members, events, and book reviews. Individual – $40 per year Household – $60 per year Corporate – $125 per year Student/Senior – $20 per year Senior Household – $30 per year

Name(s):______

Street Address: ______

City: ______State ______ZIP ______

Work Phone: ______Home Phone: ______e-mail: ______Profession: ______

Culinary Interests (12 words max; information to appear in the next CHNY directory)

Willing to help with: Programs:______Membership:______Newsletter:______

Please make check payable to CHNY and send with completed form to: The Culinary Historians of New York, Wendy Clapp-Shapiro, PMB, 388 1173A Second Avenue, New York, NY 10021.

10 An Introduction to the History of Madeira

ADEIRA, in the improved. As a result, shippers contributes the other 90 percent of manner of Champagne, began sending their wines on the island’s harvest. MBurgundy or Bordeaux, equatorial voyages to season the The white varieties are arrested in is named for an island governed by wines and also started establishing their fermentation to different Portugal. The largest of an warmer storage conditions while levels of sweetness. Sercial, archipelago of islands called the aging the wines on the island. generally the last of the four classic Madeira Islands, Madeira is located Heat, normally the nemesis of types to be harvested, is renowned in the Atlantic Ocean, wine, is a strange partner in for its mouth-puckering acidity. approximately 400 miles due west Madeira’s wine development. The Verdelho, the most widely planted of Casablanca and 500 miles island’s volcanic soil improves its until the phyloxera devestation, southeast of the Portuguese resistence to breakdown from heat, today has the smallest production. mainland. Although it is not promotes earlier physiological It is has a medium dry smokey known who planted the first vines maturity and enhances mineral flavor. Bual is considered a dessert on the island, it is known that components that accrue in wines. wine though it is significantly drier Prince Henry the Navigator of These factors coupled with the than Malmsey. Cultivated since the Portugal in the fifteenth century remarkable acicity of Madeira, due fifteenth century, Malmsey is the was instrumental in developing the to earlier than standard harvest only true classical grape of settlement of the island as a means sugars make a wine close to Madeira. It grows at the lowest of increasing the export of wine. indestructible. The island wines elevation near the ocean. The cultivation of vines was second are for the most part so acidic a s Finally, Tina Negra Mole is the only to that of sugar cane. to make them undrinkable before backbone of the Madeira wine Although in the fifteenth and heating. industry. It produces a semi-dry, sixteenth centuries Madeira owes Today, historic sea voyages are light bodied wine that combines much of its wine trade growth to recreated in cellars where soft fruit with a dry, nutty quality. ships following the trade winds and temperatures are systematically The popularity of this variety stopping off at Madeira before cooled and warmed similar to the among winemakers lies in its crossing the Atlantic, the early experience a ship’s cargo would amazing versatility, which allows Americans, to avoid paying the have approaching and departing the vintner to mimic the more English tariff, preferred sending the equator. The fine vintage mildew-prone classic white their own ships to Madeira to pick- Madeiras, made solely from one of varieties by skillful adjustments of up what was a popular wine of the the traditional white grape the wines’ sugar level. period. It is believed that both the varieties, are aged in casks for Declaration of Independence and twenty to fifty years in attics of Nancy Peach is vice president of the inauguration of George wine lodges where the seasons education for the Symington Family Washington were toasted with subtly and gently increase and whose holdings include seven Port Madeira. Some history books also decrease the temperatures. Houses and The Madeira Wine report that Washington drank a Five grape varieties emerged Company. She has been a member of pint of Madeira with dinner. after the scourge of phylloxera, the Bon Appetit magazine Tasting An improved method of aging which reached its peak in 1872. Panel and a speaker at the National Madeira came about by accident. The four white varieties, Sercial, Convention of the Society of Wine The story goes that a cask of the Verdelho, Bual, and Malmsey Educators of which she is a member. wine was accidentally left on board account for less than 10 percent of She conducts educational seminars on a ship to the American colonies all grapes, and the prolific red Port and Madeira throughout the and returned home with the flavor variety Tinta Nerga Mole country.

11 UPCOMING PROGRAMS IN THIS ISSUE:

Monday, May 7 CULINARY BOOKSHELF .. 1 Fred Plotkin— A talk based on his newly released book La Terra Fortunata: The Splendid Food and Wine of Friuli-Venezia-Giulia TRAVELER’S JOURNAL ..... 2 September 24 Annual Members Cocktail Party — Elections and business meeting MEMBER PROFILE ...... 7

October (date TBA) Pat Willard— “The Secret of Saffron” MEMBER NEWS ...... 8

November Date and program to be announced

December (date TBA) Maricel Presilla— “The Taste and Lore of Chocolate”

•CULINARY HISTORIANS OF NEW YORK• C/O Wendy Clapp-Shapiro PMB, 388 1173A Second Avenue New York, NY 10021

12