ONESTAR PRESS TheThe fashionbook The the vier5 fashion book onestar press

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MADONNA, HAUTE COUTURE, Paris 1993 Interview with Barbara Klemm BK: Of course Sammy Davis Jr. FT: Were you standing directly or Tina Turner also had a opposite Madonna? superstar and cult status in What was your position? Germany. It wasn’t easier to approach them than today. BK: My position was on the At the time this already had other side of the catwalk. to do with the marketing of stars by concert promoters FT: Madonna is the only one and agencies. in the picture dressed in white, her eyes are directed FT: Another picture that upwards, her gaze appears highly impressed me and concentrated, a bit trans- moves me until today is your figured. photograph of Madonna at When looking at the picture a fashion show. When and it seems as if she were where did you take this shining among all the others. picture? She’s sitting in an illuminated circle, while the others are BK: The picture was taken grouped around her in the in 1993. I was commissioned dark. As far as I know, you by the FAZ to photograph do not manipulate your photos. the haute couture in Paris. How do you explain that? It was the evening of the Where does this shine come Versace show. from? Fairy Tale: Last year I saw I photographed many of them, your exhibition of artist’s for example, Janis Joplin, out FT: On the one hand the BK: The shine comes from portraits. of personal interest and picture is a portrait but on the catwalk which was lit by You have been taking photos also for the Frankfurter the other a fashion shot. alternating light, from below of different artists since Allgemeine Zeitung. How did this picture come as well. Her white dress the late 1960s, including about? What’s the story and blond hair intensified personalities such as Sammy FT: The pictures appear very behind it? this effect, as did the Davis Jr. or Tina Turner, direct; they reveal a lot dark clothes of the people both appearing on stage in of the personalities of BK: The editor of the FAZ, sitting apart from her, who the 1970s. the persons depicted. What Brigitte Scherer, was not were her “family”. How did this come about? were the times like then? that interested in the Did persons like Tina Turner Versace collection at the FT: Did she have a charisma Barbara Klemm: Already in or Sammy Davis Jr. enjoy time. That’s why I concentra- that made her stand out the 1960s, all stars of the the same status as compar- ted more on the audience of the crown, made her jazz, rock and pop scene able stars today, or was and the atmosphere right different, something one performed in Frankfurt. it easier to approach them? from the start. would call an “aura”?

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BK: Madonna’s charisma FT: You said Madonna reminded another superstar, Andy FT: I’m familiar with your work fascinated me from the you of a silent movie star. Warhol standing in front especially from the field of moment she first appeared She indeed looks like one with of the Goethe painting press photography, the shortly before the show. her hairdo and pearl necklace. by Tischbein. How did this pictures of your travels, for That’s why I mainly concen- Do you think her appearance picture originate? example, in Cuba in the late trated on her throughout was staged? 1990s. the show. At the same time BK: I saw Andy Warhol by Why did you shoot photos it was important for me BK: It is known that Madonna chance when visiting the at a fashion show? to make it clear that the always styles herself in Städelsche Kunstinstitut. photos were taken during a certain way, always diffe- Dr. Klaus Gallwitz, the BK: Since I was employed afashion show. rently depending on the director of Städel, took on a regular basis at the occasion. Andy Warhol on a private FAZ as a photo editor FT: Did you have the tour through the museum. responsible for the politics impression that Madonna FT: Did you feel yourself as Andy Warhol wanted to see and arts sections, my range was more important at part of the scenery or did the original Goethe picture was quite broad. that moment than the you maintain a distance? by Tischbein for the first fashion show? How would you describe it? time. As is known, he had FT: Do you also deal with produced his screen prints fashion photography, BK: For me she was. BK: The relatively large of the Goethe pictures meaning the photography of distance was one of the according to a setting copy. fashion and the arranging FT: Did you recognise her reasons I was able to take and staging of fashion and right away? this good picture. FT: How did he behave? models. Or is your dealing with the BK: No, I didn’t know who she FT: Do you regard yourself BK: It surprised me that field of fashion to be was when I shot the photo- and your work in such he appeared to be quite considered as documentation graphs. moments as a medium between uninterested in all the or reportage? the subject and the viewer, excellent paintings of the FT: How did the photo- whom you intend to convey great masters that the BK: No, my work is always to graphers react to her? the scene to, or rather like Städel possesses. be seen as documentation a mirror of the situation? and reportage. BK: All the other photogra- FT: Do you think he would phers at the end of the BK: I don’t know if that’s a have also stood out the FT: Would fashion photo- catwalk immediately “pounced contradiction. At any rate way Madonna did at the graphy interest you as a on her” prior to the show. I always try to show with my fashion show? field of work? photographs how the situ- Would his appearance have FT: Did she enjoy the moment ation and events present been an event? BK: No, arranging and of attention? themselves to me. staging is not my strength. BK: Yes, the museum was The mises en scène of life BK: I think Madonna very FT: Another famous photo- actually closed to the public that I encounter interest much enjoyed the attention. graph of yours depicts during the guided tour. me more.

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WHAT DO YOU DO AGAINST POVERTY? Column by Kate Pierson

Yes, I’m one of those crazy animal however dire the cause may be, My “do” firmly in place, we headed meal in Italy). Dan was savoring rights nuts. And as a card-carrying he bubbles with a mad sense of straight for the Vatican! and loving his pasta sauce-until PeTA (People for the ethical humor and true spirit of optimism. We were greeted by members of he asked what it was, only to Treatment of Animals) member, I’ve He is, however, always armed with “Animalisti Italiani”. They were all find out it was made with mushrooms participated in numerous “actions” the grim facts about how some dressed as bunnies and lambs, in and… rabbit! for the cause of animals. animals are mistreated. easter yellows and pinks, carrying After taking the meal back to placards pleading for the pope replace it with a veggie version, During the 25 years with my band, So, when in the spring of 1997, to include the animals. There the waiter stared at us and The B-52s, we have supported Dan invited me to join him in Rome was also a barrage of media that said: “Hey! I saw you on the news many causes, including: Aids, Sierra on easter sunday for an “action”, far outnumbered our small band: today and now I’m going vegetarian Club, Greenpeace, Planned Parent- I readily agreed. “The pope has international news stations, radio, too!” hood, the Gay and Lesbian Alliance, just issued an edict for easter magazines and press. We talked to name just a few. But like most against killing our fellow human to the media and stated our cause, The next morning the unbelievable bands, we agree to do benefit beings and our mission is to ask but the action started when we happened. TV showed footage concerts for causes we believe in. him to extend that to include all stepped into St. Peter’s square of us at the Vatican, but also That is usually the most effective the animals”, Dan explained. to try to meet with the pope to showed animal rights documentation way for musicians to “put their Dan told me we would join the plead for the animals. The Swiss of the horrible cruelties inflicted money where their mouths are”. small budding animal rights group guards (with their cute hats) on animals—including anal electro- “Animalisti Italiani” by St. Peter’s were there in force, and when the cution of minks killed for their I strongly believe that caring square, just outside the Vatican media followed us on our march fur and animals being subjected about the world and making (that’s where you can buy all the near the Vatican all hell broke to painful and inhumane lab tests. change involve the idea that we pope souvenirs, including the loose. A Swiss guard grabbed our This was footage they would are all on this planet together— famous “pope–ener” bottle opener man in the bunny suit by the arm never show on American TV and it this “spaceship earth”, and this with pope’s picture on it.). and I quickly grabbed his other was all over the news! includes standing up for those He explained that although the arm, crying: “Una pregiero per When we checked into our hotel that don’t have a voice to express group was small, there would be gli animali”—”A prayer for the in Sienna that afternoon, the their oppression: namely, animals. plenty of media coverage. animals”! young man who managed the hotel But, the way things go with Dan recognized us and said excitedly So, out of all the various causes, and me, it soon turned into a We nearly pulled that bunny apart. “I saw the news report and now I have been most directly active divine comedy. After driving in And we never met the pope. I am going to free my father’s in PeTA. I was arrested in a raid circles around Rome, finally finding But there it was, all over the chickens!” Bingo! on Vogue magazine (they ran big our hotel, we waited for the papers the next day—with major Another score in the fight for fur ads, but refused to run a arrival of “the hairdresser”. Since headlines: The giant bunny, with the animals! paid PeTA anti-fur campaign) then this was a media event, we thought the police trying to arrest him, And another step toward under- along with Chrissie Hynde of The I should sport my traditional B-52s and me with my big hairdo, trying standing each other as fellow Pretenders, a long standing PeTA hairdo. When the hairdresser to save him. inhabitants of this beautiful activist, I protested products didn’t show, Dan, who speaks Italian All against the backdrop of the planet. As we headed to the that were tested on animals. I’ve and had even played a part in a Vatican! You couldn’t ask for airport the next day, listening done a lot of other PeTA activities “spaghetti western”, ran up and more drama. to a Claudine Longet CD, I felt along with Dan Matthews, director down the street looking for a That night we celebrated our a sense of peace. Working with of media relations for PeTA. hairdresser. success with a delicious Italian PeTA has made me realize it is Working with Dan is always an He came back with Giovanni of meal (by American standards, possible to change the world — adventure and a pleasure and Rome, tease comb in hand. there’s no such thing as a bad or at least Rome — in one day!

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CREDITS

Pages 4-7 Pages 140-141 Madonna, Haute Couture, Paris 1993 Barbara Klemm is born in 1939 in What do you do against poverty? Kate Pierson is born in 1948 in Interview with Barbara Klemm Münster/Germany. She is a Column by Kate Pierson Weehawken, New Jersey/USA. Since Photo (c) Barbara Klemm photographer and has several Published in FT issue „New Fashion“. 1976 she is singer of the band Photo and Interview published in exhibitions. Her photos are The B-52s: www.theb52s.com The B-52s. She is also involved in FT issue „Foto“. published all over the world. PeTA: www.peta.org animal protection activities.

Pages 10-17 Pages 42-53 Pages 80-91 Pages 116-123 Shooting 1 Shooting 4 Shooting 7 Shooting 10

Location: Billingsbach/Germany Location: Paris/France Location: Paris/France Location: Vienna/Austria Photos: Achim Reichert Photos: Walter Pfeiffer Photos: Achim Reichert Photos: Achim Reichert Styling: Marco Fiedler Styling: Marco Fiedler Styling: Marco Fiedler Styling: Marco Fiedler Model: Tony for Indeed Model Models: Jonathan & Kevin for Ford; Make-Up: Susanne Schneider Make-Up: Susanne Schneider Management Laurent for Bananas; Model: Olivier Model: Andrian Unpublished pictures for Julien for Nathalie Published in FT issue „Foto“ for Indeed Model Management FT issue „Nature“ Published in FT issue „Fashion, Published in FT issue Beauty & Style“ „Pure Fashion“

Pages 20-27 Pages 94-101 Shooting 8 Shooting 2 Pages 56-65 Pages 126-139 Shooting 5 Shooting 11 Location: Paris/France Location: Paris/France Photos: Steeve Beckouet Location: Föhr/Germany Photos: Steeve Beckouet Location: Berlin/Germany Styling: Marco Fiedler Photos: Achim Reichert Styling: Marco Fiedler Photos: Achim Reichert Make-Up: Susanne Schneider Styling: Marco Fiedler Assistant: Dana Schultheiss Styling: Marco Fiedler Model: Sikko Model: Andreas for Indeed Model Make-Up: Susanne Schneider Make-Up: Susanne Schneider Published in FT issue „Architecture Management Model: Ariel Models: Andrian & Tony Published in FT issue „Foto“ and Interieur“ Published in FT issue „Architecture for Indeed Model Management and Interieur“ Published in FT issue: „Architecture and Interieur“

Pages 30-39 Pages 104-113 Shooting 3 Pages 68-77 Shooting 9 Shooting 6 Location: Billingsbach/Germany Location: Paris/France Photos: Achim Reichert Location: Föhr/Germany Photos: Steeve Beckouet Styling: Marco Fiedler Photos: Achim Reichert Styling: Marco Fiedler Models: Anont; Styling: Marco Fiedler Assistant: Dana Schultheiss Tony for Indeed Model Management Model: Andreas for Indeed Model Make-Up: Susanne Schneider Published in FT issue „Architecture Management Model: Ariel and Interieur“ Published in FT issue „Pure Fashion 2“ Published in FT issue „Foto“

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First edition limited to 250 numbered copies. In addition to this book a limited edition multiple by the artist is available from onestar press. Assistants: Karin Mihatsch Claudiu Hog Translation: Karl Hoffmann Correction Franck Bourgeois www.vier5.de Printed and bound in France © 2009 Vier5 & onestar press onestar press 16, rue Trolley de Prévaux 75013 Paris France [email protected] www.onestarpress.com /250

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