Jeollabuk-do - Gochang•Buan•Gimje

1. Seonunsa Temple, Gochang 2. Gochang Eupseong Fortress 3.Buan Naesosa Temple 4. Chaeseokgang and Jeokbyeokgang, Buan 5. Byeokgolje in Gimje 6. GimjeGeumsansa Temple Seonunsa Temple, Gochang 1. Dosolcheon, the Road that Cleanses Your Soul

Title The Road that Cleanses Your Soul

Narration: Welcome to Seonunsa Temple in Gochang. The distance between Seonunsa Temple entrance and Dosoram Hermitage is 3.2 kilometers. Follow the trail along Dosolcheon Ravine, if you want to climb Seonunsan Mountain. The name 'Seonunsan' means “a mountain to meditate in the clouds”. It's also called Dosolsan Mountain. It’s a Buddhist name, meaning, “learn the teachings of Buddha”. As its name suggests, it’s a special mountain for those wishing to attain enlightenment and live by the Buddhist doctrines. If you’re here in the summer, the stream in the ravine makes a great place to rest in the shades. After the heat of the summer, you’ll see red spider lilies all around you as you walk on the lower trail of the mountain, making your walk more pleasant. Some people think it's sad that the flowers bloom only after all the leaves have fallen. More people come to this place in the early autumn to see the red tinged leaves. In your walk on the trail, listen to the clear sound of the water flowing. It may relax your mind. 2. A Cup of Tea at Manseru Pavilion

Title A Cup of Tea for You

Narration: Take a short walk along the trail flanked by maple and zelkova trees, and you’ll reach Cheonwangmun Gate before you know it. Just inside the gate, you’ll see statues of Buddhist guardian deities whose primary role is to protect the world of and defeat evil. It’s common to see statues or paintings of these deities at other Buddhist temples in , since they’re believed to uphold the Buddhist doctrine and protect the temple. The first thing you’ll see after passing through the gate is a pavilion called Manseru. Manseru Pavilion is the last building to be built on the temple ground, but it’s the first building to greet visitors. (Sound of wind, Monk’s voice) Manseru Pavilion is primarily used as a lecture hall where Buddhist priests give lectures and Buddhists pray. The building also has a tea room open to all the visitors. All the columns of Manseru Pavilion are shaped differently and bent in the middle. It’s because only natural tree trunks are used to make these columns. The corner columns in particular are made of a whole tree, with only its bark removed. Some of them had to be repaired every once in a while, but there are still those that are over 700 years old. 3. Daeungbojeon, and Foundation Stories

Title Daeungbojeon, and Foundation Stories

Narration: Just in front of Manseru Pavilion and surrounded by camellia shrubs, is Daeungbojeon. It houses a seated Vairocana and a mural behind. The ceiling is painted with four dragons in different colors. Many visitors to this place find themselves overwhelmed by the imposing statue of Buddha and the dragons, which seem as though they’re soaring up to the sky. There are two different stories about the foundation of this temple. According to a legend, this place used to be a pond with a dragon living there. A Buddhist priest came to this one day and drove the dragon away. But when he was filling up the pond by throwing stones into it, a very contagious eye disease spread in the village around the pond. The villagers soon learned that they can be cured of the disease if they pour a sack of hardwood charcoal into the pond. So every villager brought a sack full of hardwood charcoal and stones to fill up the pond. And when the large pond was soon filled with charcoal and stones, people built a temple on top of the reclaimed land. There is another story about how the temple was built. According to the story, there was a poor village right under Seonunsan Mountain. A Buddhist priest came to the village one day, and taught the villagers how to take salt out of seawater as well as how to make hardwood charcoal and paper. In other words, the Buddhist priest taught them the means to survive. The villagers were so grateful for him, that they built him a temple. The village prospered, and the villagers donated salt to the temple every year in return for his service. During the time, salt was a very valuable commodity. The villagers still observe the tradition, even after 1,500 years. 4.Camellia Forest

Title Camellia Forest

Narration: The Camellia Forest at the temple has always been a famous place in the country, and that’s why many poets wrote about it. In Asia, camellia represents “the devotion of lovers”. It blooms in the spring, and when it falls, the whole bud falls and not just the leaves like most of other flowers. Poets related the bud falling to pure love, and that’s why they wrote about the flower. You’ll find about three thousand camellia trees right behind Seonunsa Temple. The monks at the temple have been growing camellia trees for hundreds of years to protect the temple against mountain fire, and use it as a lamp oil substitute. Camellia trees that are over five hundred years old are dark blue in color, and they have a sacred air about them. Camellia flowers at the temple bloom in March, which is much later than those in other regions. So March is the perfect month to visit the temple if you want to see the spring flowers. 5. Ksitigarbha, the Protector of the Heavens, Land, and People

Ksitigarbha, the Protector of the Heavens, Land, and Title People

Narration: Seonunsa Temple also has three seated statues of Ksitigarbha, as the protectors and saviors of every living creature in the world, namely “All Heavenly Beings”, “All Earthly Beings”, and “All Aquatic Beings”. In Buddhism, calling out his name can end all the suffering and help you attain Nirvana. So most temples in Korea have a portrait of Ksitigarbha enshrined in the altar. But Seonunsa Temple is different from the rest, because it has a statue of Ksitigarbha enshrined instead of a portrait. Since 1472, Seonunsa Temple has been receiving special support from the Dynasty, and many Buddhists came to this place to pray to Ksitigarbha. There are many strange stories about the seated statue of Ksitigarbha. One of the most well-known stories goes something like this: The statue was stolen and smuggled into in 1936, only to be returned in just two years. The reason being is that the holder of the statue dreamed about Ksitigarbha one night, and the bodhisattva told him, “I was originally in Korea, so have me returned to the country right now." He didn’t like the dream, so he gave the statue to someone else. But the new holder also saw the bodhisattva in his dream, and gave it to another person. This went on and on, and the last person to have possession of the statue reported to the Gochang Police Station. After the report came in, a priest from Seonunsa Temple and a number of police officers went to Japan and brought back the seated bodhisattva. After the incident, the seated statue was designated as a National Treasure and placed in the Seongbo Museum at Seonunsa Temple. 6.Jangsasong and Jinheunggul Cave, the Places of Enlightenment and Caring

Title The Places of Enlightenment and Caring

Narration: The stream in Dosolcheon changes color every years. (Sound of Birds, water, trees) Can you see the pine tree with several branches pointing toward the sky? The branches start splitting about three to four meters from the bottom of the trunk, and they split even more at the top. When looking up from the bottom of the tree, the pine tree named “Jangsasong” looks like a blue umbrella. The tree has been there for the past 600 years. Over the centuries, people came up with a number of myths about the tree. One of them is the transformation of a woman into a pine tree. She was the wife of a soldier who was sent to a battlefield, and she died waiting for her husband. And the tree grew from her body. There is a cave right next to the pine tree. A story has it that in the 6th century, the King left his throne to meditate in this cave and attain enlightenment. It’s a natural cave, about 4 meters high and 10 meters long. There is a small Buddha statue and burning candles in the cave, because some people still come to this place to pray. The candles are always lit for this reason. It’s been more than a millennium since the first person came to this quiet cave to be immersed in a deep meditation to attain enlightenment, and yet people still continue their spiritual journey. 7. Maitreya Statue with Secrets

Title Maitreya Statue with Secrets

Narration: There is a rock-carved Maitreya on the rocky cliff to the west side of Dosoram Hermitage. The carving is 13 meters high and 3 meters wide. It has a square face, upward slanted eyes, sharp nose, and thick lips. The huge figure seems to be looking down from the sky. Although the skills of those who carved Maitreya into the cliff are far from being refined, it seems like they did their best. As a proof, the rock carving is still visible today, even after one thousand years. There is a famous story behind this Maitreya carving. There is a square hole near the naval of the bodhisattva. It was a common practice to make a hole on the rock when carving a Buddha figure into a rocky cliff so the workers can store jewels and books. In the case of this Maitreya carving, people believed that a book written with great secrets to change the world was stored in the hole next to the bodhisattva's navel up until about 120 years ago. A rumor has it that the book was stolen in 1892 by the leaders of the Donghak Peasant Revolution. Upon hearing this, tens of thousands of peasants joined the movement, believing that the book contains the secrets to change the world. In a way, the peasants rebellion became a national movement because of the Buddhists who believed in the secret messages in the book. No one can tell if the peasant soldiers actually took the book or not, but one thing is for sure. They were desperate to change the world they live in. Now let’s move on to Naewongung, a pavilion on top of the bodhisattva’s head, and where a statue of Maitreya is housed. It’s also the last place you’ll visit in your journey to Seonunsa Temple. 8. A Hermitage with Maitreya in Meditation

Title A Hermitage with Maitreya in Meditation

Narration: To get to Naewongung, you need to walk up a stone stairway, and the top of the staircase won’t be visible from the ground level because it’s circular. The stairway to Naewongung has a total of 161 steps. Buddhists say that you should repent for your sins on the first 108 steps, and think about how to attain wisdom and enlightenment on the last 53. What they’re trying to tell you is to clear your mind while climbing the stairway. According to a story, Naewongung is where Maitreya meditates, while enlightening the world. Although you won’t find any Maitreya statues here, you will see a golden seated statue of Ksitigarbha Bodhisattva. With a round, elegance face and well-balanced body, the statue is very elaborately carved. While you’re up here, why don’t you take in the scenery of Seonunsan Mountain? Just look at the Seonunsan Peaks from Naewongung, and you'll see clouds over them. Okay, you have seen every corner of Seonunsa Temple while walking along the stream. Seonunsan Mountain is where you can feel enlightened in a thick silence. Your tour of the temple ends here, where you can have a panoramic view of the mountain. Gochang Eupseong Fortress 1.Gochang Eupseong Fortress 1

Title The Purpose of the Fortress

Narration: Let’s start the tour of Gochang Eupseong Fortress and nearby historical sites.

Your first stop will be Gochang Eupseong Fortress.

It was built in 1453 to protect the southwestern region of the Korean peninsula. That’s why the site includes a number of military facilities. The most outstanding facility is a rampart within the interior of the fort. Can you see a circular wall just in front of the gate? That’s the rampart of this fortress. A circular rampart is built behind all the gates in this fortress. Their primary role is to make it as difficult as possible for the enemies to come in. While the rampart had a very practical purpose in the past, it’s now a popular tourist spot because of its beautiful shape.

In fact, the entire fortress walls are a piece of art in itself. It’s mostly because they’re made of natural stones, which help the walls blend in with the natural surroundings. Unlike the outer walls, the inner walls are made of stones and clay. It even follows the curve of the mountain ridges.

Let's go into the fortress.

2.Gochang Eupseong Fortress 2

Title The Fortress as a Tourist Site

Narration: To go into Gochang Eupseong Fortress, you must go through the north gate.

The fortress has a total of 14 administrative buildings restored inside. It originally had 22 buildings in the past, but most of them were destroyed over the years. They’re still trying to restore all of them. Normally, fortresses in Korea were built around a village. But that wasn’t the case of Gochang Eupseong Fortress, since the fortress only had administrative buildings. Today, Gochang Eupseong Fortress is one of the most popular places to hike because of its beautiful interior. There is a beautiful flower trail which leads to a lush forest of pine trees. Right next to the pine forest is a bamboo grove.

The fortress has yet another trail just outside the walls. It’s another popular attraction in the region. Let’s go take a look.

3.Gochang Eupseong Fortress 3

Title The Old Customs of Fortress

Narration: Inside Gochang Eupseong Fortress, you’ll see a trail adjoining the inner walls and a mountain ridge. That’s the famous “Fortress Road”. Since it’s on top of the wall, you can have a panoramic view of the town below.

They have a old, strange custom of circling around the fortress walls with a rock on their head. Mostly practiced by women, the tradition has been passed down for centuries. The locals believe that good things will happen if they do this. They say your legs will feel better if you circle the walls once, you'll have a long healthy life if you circle twice, and you’ll go to Heaven if you circle three times.

There was a practical reason why they adopted the custom. It was created in 1678 right after a war. The walls collapsed during the war, and the local governor had it repaired with stone and clay. But the walls were more like a loose mixture of clay and stones, and he had to make them hard and sturdy. So he encouraged people to walk on the walls. He even asked them to bring a rock to add more weight of their body, and more pressure to the wall. He needed as many volunteers as possible, so he spread the rumor that good things will happen if you circle around the walls.

It became established as a tradition, and you can witness it at the annual ‘Gochang Moyang Seongje Festival’. 4.The Old House of Shin Jae-hyo

Title The Old House of Shin Jae-hyo

Narration: This is the old house of Shin Jae-hyo. Born in 1812 in Gochang, Shin Jae-hyo was one of the greatest contributors to , a form of traditional musical theater in Korea.

Pansori is like , in that the soloist sings an entire story. But unlike opera, it’s performed by only one singer on the . Not only that, there aren't any musical accompaniments except for the drummer. So the soloist sings to the beat of the drum with occasional rhythmic gestures and storytelling. Are you ready to listen to a pansori?

-Sound of Chunhyangga

This is 'Chunhyang', which is one of the most well-known classical pieces. But pansori wasn’t always like this in the past. The lyrics weren’t even composed, and ordinary people sang in whatever fashion they liked. Then a legendary singer named Shin Jae-hyo came along, and recreated the genre of music by composing lyrics, tunes, and choreographed the . He didn’t stop there, as he composed more than 30 pansori songs.

Some of his other achievements include the establishment of ‘Soricheong’, the first pansori school. He opened a music school right in his house. He was at center of controversy at the time, because he became the first person to teach pansori to women. Before him, pansori was a male-dominated genre of music.

He was the one who established principles and theories for pansori, and dedicated his whole life teaching and composing pansori. He never stopped changing and developing pansori until his death in 1884. That’s why call his the ‘great master’ of pansori. 5. The Five Shrines

Title The Stone Pillar Guardian

Narration: Welcome to the Five Shrines. Since ancient times, Koreans prayed at the shrine for their wishes. Here, the shrine refers to a mountain, tree, rock, or any other natural objects that are thought to be imbued with a divine spirit. Koreans regarded them as a their guardian. The practice of nature worship is not uncommon in other parts of the world.

The people of Gochang were nature worshippers we well. After having a serious flood in the early 19th century, the villagers set up five pillars on the four directions and at the center of their town to pray for their safety. Those are known today as the Five Shrines.

The people of Gochang revered the Five Shrines as sacred, and held religious ceremonies at the shrines. But the religious ceremony is no longer practiced. They do, however, hold the ceremony at the Five Shrines to preserve their tradition. 6.Pansori Museum

Title The Sacred Ground of Pansori

Narration: This is the Gochang Pansori Museum. The museum is dedicated to honoring the lifetime achievements of Shin Jae-hyo, who taught and improved pansori throughout his life.

He’s the one who laid the theoretical basis for pansori and compiled a list of every pansori classics. He also built the country’s first pansori school here in Gochang. It makes Gochang the birthplace of the pansori education system, and that’s why so many pansori masters came from this region. The first female pansori singer was educated here as well. In short, Shin Jae-hyo turned this region into the center and sacred place of pansori education. The tradition of teaching pansori is still there in Gochang. Some of the top pansori singers have trained here, and many young people still come to study pansori.

The Gochang Pansori Museum is the only museum of pansori, established on the traditions of Gochang. The museum houses thousands of objects that highlight the history of pansori. It also has a section dedicated to Shin Jae-hyo and other pansori singers from Gochang. The section displays arrays of their articles and music records.

The museum also has special pansori classes and . So it would be a good idea to check the schedule before visiting the museum. Chaeseokgang and Jeokbyeokgang, Buan 1. Chaeseokgang, the Landform Created by the Waves Over a Period of 70 Million Years

The Landform Created by the Waves Over the Period Title of 70 Million Years

Narration: What you see in front of you is called Chaeseokgang. Formed by coastal erosion, the cliff has been hit by the waves over a period of 70 million years. Today, it looks like a tall stack of books. There are many caves of different shapes on the cliff as well. The sunset seen from one of the caves is quite extraordinary. The ocean turns red as the sun goes down. Chaeseokgang is a more beautiful place at night. The ocean turns white when the moon is full, and the cliff and caves become more visible under the moonlight. The beautiful scenery of Chaeseokgang is a gift of the nature. 2.The Place to Bid Farewell to the Century, or the Year

The Place to Bid Farewell to the Century, or the Title Year

Narration: This scenic viewpoint is very popular among Koreans because it's where the sun sets the latest in the country. That's why the New Millennium Festival was held on December 31, 1999. One the last day of the 1999, thousands of people came to this place to start fire with a lens to celebrate the last sunset of the millennium. And the first sunrise of the new millennium was celebrated in Homigot, , because it's where the sun rises first in the peninsula.

The celebration didn't end there, since they put the fire from two different places together at a torch-shaped sculpture specially made for the occasion. They even gave a name to the fire: The Eternal Fire of the New Millennium". The torch is still lit in Homigot, Pohang.

There is a great viewpoint at Gyeokpo Beach, offering a panoramic view of the beautiful place. This promenade stretches about seven kilometers from Chaeseokgang to Jeokbyeokgang, on which you can take a walk while taking in the beautiful scenery of the coast. The walk on the promenade along the beach and the beautiful sunset will make your visit a memorable stay. 3. Jeokbyeokgang, with the Glow of the Sunset Over the Sea and Cliff

Title The Glow of the Sunset Over the Sea and Cliff

Narration: Welcome to Jeokbyeokgang, where the sea and cliff are tinged by the red glow of the sunset in the evening.

The place was formed by the volcanic activity. You can still see the traces of lava on some of the rocks in the beach. They're the igneous rocks, and the cliff around the area is also dark red. Jeokbyeokgang is a pebble beach, with the pebbles worn down to the size of a bean by the waves. The whole beach is red all over, thanks to the volcanic rocks and cliffs.

That's why the sunset is particularly beautiful in this place. In the evening, the rocks along the coast are tinged by the crimson glow of the setting sun. Another advantage of this place as a tourist site is that not many people come to this place, making it a perfect place to enjoy the view of the west coast in leisure. 4.Chaeseokgang and Jeokbyeokgang, Buan: Suseongdang, the Shrine of a Guardian Deity

Title The Shrine of a Guardian Deity

Narration: This is Suseongdang, the cliff house on the rocky site of Yongdusan Mountain overlooking Jeokbyeokgang. It's the only shrine and the last remnant of the folk religion of this coastal village. The archaeological excavation in 1992 revealed that people first started having rituals in this place about 1,700 hundred years ago.

This shrine was dedicated to the guardian goddess of the West Sea. The local legend has it that the old goddess is so tall that the sea is only ankle-deep for her even when she's standing in the deepest part of the West Sea. The sea route in front of the shrine is known for having high waves. The local people believed that the goddess protected their fishermen and boats by filling the deeper areas and calming the waves. So the people in this region performed rituals for the goddess, and prayed for the safety of their boats and prosperity of their town.

And the villagers still observe the tradition. It's of a grand scale too, since a number of well-known shamans from other regions are invited on January 3rd of each year. Individual rituals are also held by different shamans throughout the year. Suseongdang has a strange, mysterious air. It must be because the ancient tradition of having rituals is still carried on. 5.Chaeseokgang and Jeokbyeokgang, Buan: The Tree Growing in the Sea Breeze

Title The Tree Growing in the Sea Breeze

Narration: Under the hill behind Suseongdang is a grove of silver magnolia trees, which usually grow in the southern islands of the Korean Peninsula. So this is as north as it gets in Korea for silver magnolia to grow. A silver magnolia tree can grow as tall as twenty meters with a girth of six meters. It's a beautiful tree characterized by glossy red leaves. There are a little over twenty silver magnolia trees that are about four meters tall in this grove, which are just enough to block the strong wind blowing from the sea. Since the trees serve as a windbreak, the local people can cultivate their land and grow crops without having to worry about the wind. People living in a coastal village like this cherish silver magnolia trees for another reason as well, which is that they look neat and clean until the end of their life cycle. Buan Naesosa Temple 1. The Fir Grove Trail for Walking Meditation

Title The Fir Grove Trail for Walking Meditation

Narration: Welcome to Naesosa Temple! You're in an ancient temple built in 633, but it's most well-known for its Fir Grove Trail. The trail has been there for over 150 years. It was created by the resident Buddhist monks, who had to plant over 500 fir trees to form a trail as you see today. The trail is only about 600 meters long, but while you're on it, you'll find that it's a perfect place for a 'walking meditation'.

Except for the scent of the trees, the scenery changes by season. You'll see cherry blossoms in the spring, lush fir trees in the summer, tunnel of autumn leaves in the autumn, and snow covered trees in the winter. It's no wonder this place is listed as one of the 'Most Beautiful Groves' as well as the 'Most Beautiful Trails in Korea'. 2. Shrine Tree, the Guardian of the Village

Title The Guardian Tree of the Village

Narration: Just inside the Cheonwangmun Gate is an old zelkova tree wrapped around with a golden rope. It's called the 'shrine tree' because it's regarded as a place of worship and the guardian deity of the village. It's a good example showing how Korean Buddhism goes hand in hand with folk beliefs. The shrine tree is one thousand years old, and there is another shrine tree at the first gate to the temple. That one is about seven hundred years old.

These shrine trees are also the guardians of the village where the temple is located. The monks hold a Buddhist ritual in front of the shrine tree inside the temple on January 15th of the lunar calendar, and then hold a folk-style ritual with the villagers in front of the shrine tree at the entrance. In the second ritual, people mostly pray for a good harvest and prosperous life. 3.The Bronze Bell for Your Spiritual Ears

Title A Bell for Your Spiritual Ears

Narration: The Bronze Bell at Naesosa Temple was made in 1222. A story has it that a farmer found the bell while working on the farm, but the strange thing was that it didn't make any sound no matter how hard he hit it. So he took the bell to a number of temples to see if the Buddhist monks can make it work, but none of them could. But when a monk at Naesosa Temple struck the bell, it rang. So the bell was donated to Naesosa Temple.

The Bronze Bell of Naesosa Temple is not only known for its serene and clear sound, but for its beautiful shape. The elaborate patterns engraved on the bell are also what make this bell so unique. The Bronze Bell is not in use anymore, but you can still hear the temple bell in the morning and evening. Right behind the temple is a hermitage, where you can enjoy the clear sound of the bell while looking down at the West Sea. It's one of the best places to enjoy the scenery and the serene sound of the temple bell at the same time. 4.Buan Naesosa Temple: The Beauty of the Main Hall of Naesosa Temple

Title The Beauty of the Main Hall of Naesosa Temple

Narration: The 'Daeungbojeon', or the main hall of Naesosa Temple is a well-preserved cultural heritage made by using traditional joint construction methods, in which no nails are used. It's not as big or colorful as most other Buddhist temples in Korea, but it blends in with the nature of Neunggasan Mountain behind. It's also an important cultural heritage both in the aspects of architecture and art. Go take a look at the murals of Maitreya on the back wall of the wall. You'll see a painting of bodhisattva Avalokitesvara. It's the biggest painting of bodhisattva Avalokitesvara in Korea. There is a legend about this painting. The legend has it that your wishes will come true you if the eyes of the painting follow you when you walk to the side while looking directly into the eyes. 5. The Flowers in Daeungbojeon Make the World More Beautiful

The Flowers in Daeungbojeon Make the World More Title Beautiful

Narration: This is Daeungbojeon, or the main hall of the temple is famous for the flower carved doors. They're the oldest flower carved door in Korea. There are a total of eight doors elaborately carved with sunflowers, lotus flowers, and chrysanthemum flowers. Since they're paper sliding doors, the flowers are carved on the frames. They were originally painted, but the colors are completely washed out with time, wind, and rain. But the carved flowers are still there, still beautiful even after hundreds of years.

The flowers on the door frames represent the beauty of the world of Buddhism. The woodworker who carved the flowers into the wood somehow managed to make it look like the flowers are blooming on the door. Everything had to be caved down to the finest detail, since even the slightest slip with the chisel meant redoing the whole thing again. Thanks to the woodworker's devotion to his work, we can still appreciate the beauty of these doors. Looking as though they were carved into the wood today, the carved flowers will make your visit to the main hall of Naesosa Temple a memorable experience. 6. Seolsandang and Dormitory, the Places of Meditation for Monks

Title The Places of Meditation for Monks

Narration: The buildings in front of you is where the monks of Naesosa live. Surrounded by Neunggasan Mountain, the buildings are connected to each other to form a perfect square. Connected on all four sides, the buildings share a front yard with a well in the middle. Built in 1640, the buildings are particularly unique in that the ground under them is not leveled even though there is a slope. Instead, wood columns of different lengths are placed on top of the foundation stones to level the floor. This traditional building technique was employed because traditionally, Koreans tried not to destroy the nature around them.

This is where your journey from the Fir Grove Trail ends. Breathe in the fresh air of Neunggasan Mountain in front of the living quarters of the Buddhist priests. We hope you have taken some of the burden off your shoulders during the journey, and feel a little more light-hearted on your way back down. Byeokgolje in Gimje 1. Koreans' Efforts to Control Water

Title TThe Efforts to Control Water

Narration

Byeokgolje in Gimje is the oldest and largest artificial reservoir in Korea.

Korea has been an agrarian nation for hundreds of years, so flood control and irrigation have always been an important issue for all. Reservoirs were built on a national scale: More than three hundred thousand people were commissioned to build reservoirs each year.

It was the same with Byeokgolje. According to historical records, it was built in 330 A.D. and its circumference reached to 41㎞ when it was first built. People used to say, If Byeokgolje dries up, everyone will go hungry. That's how important this reservoir was in the old days when irrigation made a world of difference between good and poor harvest.

Today, only a small portion of the embankment and floodgates remain in the Byeokgolje Tourist Complex, but restoration works based on historical records continue to bring back its original splendor.

Now, let's take a look around Byeokgolje, the symbol of traditional agriculture. 2. The Size and Technology

Title The Size and Technology

Narration

The Agricultural History Theme Hall introduces the history of Korean agriculture from the Prehistoric Period to Modern Times and provides diverse programs for visitors. In the exhibition hall, you can try rice farming and learn about the development of agriculture in the peninsula. You can also see the entire reservoir from the top of the observatory.

Look towards the east, and you will see how big reservoir is. It's so huge that you won't be able to take in the whole view at a single glance. It is said that when this reservoir was completed, it had a circumference of 41 kilometers, which is larger than 7,000 soccer fields put together.

The reservoir was built by taking advantage of the unique geographical features of this region. The eastern area of Gimje is higher than the west, and two rivers originating from the same mountain merge in a wide plain. So they built an embankment in the middle of the river, and installed five floodgates to supply water to rice paddies in the west. The structure of this reservoir demonstrates well that Korea had advanced agricultural technology, since an advanced measuring system is required to provide water from one reservoir to several places.

Look towards the west, and you'll see a wide open field. This is the only place where you can see the horizon in Korea. 3. Two Dragons

Title Two Dragons

Narration

The two dragon-shaped bamboo structures are the symbol of the Byeokgolje Tourist Complex. These structures were built here because the reservoir was related to a tale about two dragons.

In 790, a reservoir repair work was underway. According to a local legend, a good white dragon was living in a pond north of the embankment, while a bad blue dragon was in a pond in the middle of the embankment. The blue dragon was so mean that it destroyed the embankment that people were trying to repair. The white dragon tried to stop the blue dragon, and the fight developed into a battle between good and evil.

Despite the wishes of the local villagers, the blue dragon defeated the white dragon and continued to do more damage to the people. People began to believe that they needed to please the blue dragon if they ever wanted to complete the repair work, so they decided to offer a beautiful young lady to the dragon. At the time, a local official had a daughter named Danya, and she volunteered. After her immolation, the blue dragon went away, and the villagers were able to finish the job.

This story explains that building and repairing a reservoir was a very laborious and yet important work in those days. Since then, a ritual is held by the local people to comfort her soul. Today, it's more like a traditional performance, showing the construction process of a reservoir, how the two dragons fought, and Danya sacrificed herself. 4. The Two Stone Posts that Made Up a Perfect Floodgate

The Two Stone Posts that Made Up a Perfect Title Floodgate

Narration:

This reservoir originally had five floodgates, but only two of them remain today.

Can you see the two tall stone posts near the embankment? They are part of the second floodgate called Jangsaenggeo. The other set of posts served as the fourth floodgate called Gyeongjanggeo, which is located about 2 kilometers from here.

The floodgates were of a simple structure, made of boards and stones. A couple pieces of the board still remain today, showing us how the original one looked like. Two 5.5m-high stone posts were erected near the embankment and a groove was cut into the surface of each post. Then, a gate composed of several layers of wooden board was inserted into the grooves. The board, pierced with a metal ring with a chain, could be lifted to let the water out and control the water level. All the five floodgates of this reservoir worked the same way, and they were all the farmers needed to irrigate their rice field.

The field around this reservoir is one of the largest in Korea. This means that the two floodgates are a testament to the feats of civil and engineering Koreans had. 5. Agricultural in Korea

Title Agricultural in Korea

Narration:

To the east end of the complex, there is a building that looks like a thatched-roof house. It is the Byeokgolje Agricultural Culture Museum. It has one special exhibition hall and three permanent exhibition halls introducing the local agrarian culture and Byeokgolje Reservoir.

The Agrarian Culture Room and Folk Life Room display a wide range of artifacts related to the agricultural history of Korea. In particular, the Agrarian Culture Room shows the whole farming process, such as plowing, weeding, and autumn harvest. In the winter, farmers stored their crops and seeds in a granary.

The Folk Life Room introduces diverse Korean traditional customs. Korean farmers held special events in every month of the lunar calendar. For example, on the Lunar New Year's Day, they would bow and then offer New Year's greetings to elderly, and have Korean rice cake soup together. On holiday, which is on the fifteenth day of the eighth lunar month, people eat half-moon-shaped rice cakes and make a wish to the full moon.

Now, let's move on to the next exhibition hall, the one dedicated to Byeokgolje Reservoir. 6. History of Byeokgolje

Title History of Byeokgolje

Narration:

This exhibition hall provides detailed information about Byeokgolje.

While passing to the hall, you will see a video on seasonal changes on the wall to your left. On the opposite wall, there is a map of ancient irrigation facilities in Asia.

Among the ancient reservoirs, the Dujiangyan Irrigation System in and the Sayamaike Reservoir in Japan were thought to have been built by using construction methods similar to those of Byeokgolje. Their embankments were established by piling up leaves, twigs, bones, and soil. Dujiangyan was built approximately 300 years earlier than Byeokgolje. Surprisingly, it is still in use today. It was registered in the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2000 for its historical value. The construction technology used in building Byeokgolje was transferred to Japan, and that's how Sayamaike Reservoir was built in 616.

The exhibits in this hall demonstrate the scale of the construction and repair work done on Byeokgolje. Hundreds of thousands of people participated in the project. And in order to count the number of participants, they were split into groups of 500. Even people from Jeju were brought here to help the repair project in 1415. The part the Jeju people worked on is now called the Jeju Embankment. 7. Danya's Love Completes the Reservoir

Title Danya's Love Completes the Reservoir

Narration:

The two buildings standing in the front yard of the Byeokgolje Agricultural Culture Museum were built to commemorate a young lady named Danya. She is the heroine of a local story about the construction of the reservoir and the battle between two dragons. Her portrait is displayed in the left building.

Danya, a daughter of a local official, fell in love with a young civil engineer named Wondeongnang, who was dispatched from the capital. Sadly, his only concern was repairing the embankment. Even worse, he had a fianc in his hometown. So she couldn't confess her love to him. Instead, she chose to help his work by preparing him and his coworkers with food and wine. She even played musical instruments for them.

However, the repair work did not go well. People believed that it was because of the wicked blue dragon, and they needed to offer a beautiful young lady to please him.

It was around that time when Wollae, Wondeongnang's fianc came to see her man. Danya's father knew that his daughter loved and wanted to marry Wondeongnang, so he decided to offer Wollae to the dragon. That way, his daughter can marry the engineer and the engineer can finish the project, he thought. But Danya found out what her father was thinking, and she thought it wasn't a right thing to do. So she plunged herself into the dragon's pond, before her father had the chance to bring Wollae as a sacrificial offering. By sacrificing herself, Danya was able to save her beloved's fianc, stop her father from killing an innocent person, and eventually help them repair the reservoir.

After her sacrifice, the repair work was completed without any ado. The villagers praised her loving heart, filial piety, and courage. Since then, the reservoir has played an important role in farming for about 1700 years. Unfortunately, it was heavily damaged and reconstructed as a waterway during the Japanese Colonial Period. Geumsansa Temple 1. Cheonwangmun Gate

Title Cheonwangmun Gate

Narration: In order to protect Buddha and prevent the entry of evil sprits from outside, Cheonwangmun Gate is a chamber enshrined with the Sacheonwang (the four outside protectors). The phrase Oehoshin means: the spirits protecting and guarding the fringes of paradise from all sides: from the north, south, east, and west respectively. However, the overriding meaning here refers to a cleansing of trials and frustrations fromthe follower’s mind, unifying his/her mind in order to achieve devotion. In 1994, Geumsansa Temple’s Cheonwangmun Gate was recreated, as thetemple was undergoing a re-modification. So, let’s examine everything here one by one in a clockwise direction. The first thing that we see on our left is the Deva Jeungjangcheonwang. Jeungjangcheonwang is pointing towards the right with a dragon in his right hand, and holding a cintamani (jewel) in his left. With his strikingly fierce eyes, he has the role of reviving all things. In front of this, the Deva Gwangmokcheonwang controls the western side, holding a trident in his right hand and a tower in his left. He bestows pain on any evildoers and promotes moral consciousness. Located opposite this and pointing towards the north, is the Deva Damuncheonwang. Your gaze is drawn to the image of him playinga bipa (Korean mandolin). Damuncheonwang saves all those wandering in darknessLastly, the Deva Jigukcheonwang points towards the east, holding a sword in his right hand with his left clenched into a fist. He bestows good luck onto those who do good, and punishment onto those who do the evil. Next let’s move over to the Dangganjiju Pillars, Geumsansa Temple’s first treasureThe Dangganjiju Pillars are located about fifty meters away from Geumgangmun Gate to the northeast. 2. Dangganjiju Pillars

Title Dangganjiju Pillars

Narration: Have you arrived in front of the Dangganjiju Pillars yet? The ‘Danggan’acts like a guidepost, flying a flag to let everyone know about important temple events or mass, and the ‘Jiju’ acts to preserve this space. Following this, the role of the Dangganjiju Pillars is to act like a notice board for the temple entrance. Geumsansa Temple’s Dangganjiju Pillars are supported by three levels of rectangular steps, with the Danggan and Jiju propped up in the slots on the third level. Everything remains well preserved, and its value was acknowledged when it was designated treasure No. 28. The orderly nature of the levels, combined with the various pieces that make up the Jiju, has resulted in the Danggjiju Pillars becoming known as Korea’s most complete formal artifact. Another example of the Jiju resting in three flagpole slots in this fashion can also be seen at ’s Mireuk Temple Site, and at the Flagpole Supports in : they are estimated to have been constructed during the eighth century. So let’s set off in the direction of the tall building in the centre of the Temple, towards Bojeru Pavilion. 5. Bojeru Pavilion

Title Bojeru Pavilion

Narration: Passing the Dangganjiju Pillars and reaching the centre of the temple, you will be able to see Bojeru Pavilion, the tall building right in front of you. Geumsansa’s Bojeru Pavilion is a two-storey building with seven openings atthe front, and two openings at the side. This type of building began to take its place in Korean temples dating from the Joseon Dynasty. Due to frequent invasions by foreign armies, monk soldiers were appointed and this temple became a gathering place for resistance troops. These types of buildings were military necessities. As you can see, the building was built high so that all sides were visible, and also so it could be used by many people and offer easy surveillance. After the monk soldiers disappeared, the building became used as a place for Buddhist masses and public assemblies. Today, it has taken its place as one of the central compositional elements of the temple. There aren’t any completely accurate historical recordsabout the Bojeru Pavilion in Geumsansa Temple, but the current building is said to have succeeded the ‘Manseru Pavilion’: a building from the Joseon Dynasty with twelve openings. The lower level acts as a step leading up towards the temple’s front courtyard. On the left, books about Buddhism are displayed and sold in a bookstore, and on the right, a store sells souvenirs and items related to Buddhism- you should stop by for a while and have a look. Let's move on from Bojeru Pavilion and go to the place designated as the No. 827 treasure: Daejangjeon Hall. 6. Daejangjeon Hall

Title Daejangjeon Hall

Narration: Have you arrived at Daejangjeon Hall yet? The Daejangjeon Hall (treasure No. 827) that you see today is three openings wide at the front and the side, with eight ‘palja’ (wave-like) shapes making up the Korean ‘half-hipped roof’. It was originally a wooden pagoda in the centre of the Mireukjeon Hall Front Courtyard housing the Buddhist scriptures, but today it is home to the disciple statues: Sakyamuni, Kassapa, and Ananda. Daejangjeon Hall was originally built by themonk Master Jinpyo of Gimche, in around the eighth century during the Unified Dynasty. At the time Mireukjeon Hall (opposite) was being built, the wooden pagoda was decorated with octagonal shapes. The octagonal shapes in the architecture and pagoda here are said to represent the continuity of a circle. In 1635, the thirteenth year under Injo of the succeeding Joseon Dynasty, the temple was re-modified again and the original pagoda was changed to the chamber form that remains today, while the name ‘Daejangjeon’ was coined. In 1922 the temple was moved to its current location. Many changes like this took place here; however you can still see the Silla Dynasty pagoda style present in the valuable roof pieces that remain. There are ten widths of mural decorating the walls on three sides, and also on the right and left outer walls. There is also a plaque above the Daejangjeon Hall entrance (on the inside) with the names of those attending the building renovations in 1974. Next let’s examine the Seokdeung Lantern, located right in front of Daejangjeon Hall 7. Seokdeung Lantern

Title Seokdeung Lantern

Narration: If you look towards the front part of Daejangjeon Hall, you can see the Seokdeung Lantern in the light of the sanctuary ahead. The Seokdeung Lantern stands at a total of 3.9 meters tall, and has been designated as No. 828 treasure. It originally stood in front of Mireukjeon Hall, but was moved and erectedin front of Daejangjeon Hall in 1922. The upper octagonal section of the Seokdeung Lantern has a light chamber at its centre, and below it is the under support, the middle pillar, and the upper stone support. Above it, a ‘stone headpiece’ is placed on the upper stone. The broad under support is a circular plane on which eight lotus leaves are carved, and the middle pillar above is contrastingly narrow. The upper stone support is larger and heavier than the lower support, with the eight lotus leaves sculpted onto the front of the circular plane. A chamber with four windows was also made allowing the light of the lantern to emanate. There is also a low windowsill and three holes bored into the right and left sides, evidence that window coverings were onceattached. Only these window coverings have been removed, leaving an almost perfect lantern shape. The lantern is made in a style common to the Baekje Dynasty, but is estimated to be a Dynasty relic, owing to the flower decoration and techniques used to sculpt the upper stone. The upper stone is covered like that of a stone roof, lantern or tower, and the flower is decoratively carved as if set up as a cornerstone. The Seokdeung Lantern is a valuable cultural artifact of Geumsansa Temple, and has maintained its original form in spite of the many changes undergone by the temple. Next, let’s go and see Myeongbujeon Hall, located to the right of Daejangjeon Hall. 8. Myeongbujeon Hall/ Noju

Title Myeongbujeon Hall/ Noju

Narration: Myeongbujeon Hall is a chamber serving to transport the ‘yumyeonggye’ of the afterlife into the temple. The word ‘yumyeonggye’ refers to the moving of evildoers to hell, and also to thepraying for souls to be guided towards paradise where they are reincarnated. The chamber is also referred to as Jijangjeon Hall and Siwangjeon Hall, because Jijangbosal (Buddhist saint) and the Siwang (ten kings of hell) are enshrined here. There are books placed and spread out at the three openings of the front and side, adding to the appearance of the gabled building. Inside, the saint Jijangbosal is placed centrally, with kings Modukgwiwang, Domyeongjeonja, and others also enshrined there. Jijangbosal is clasping the ‘Geumgangboryeun’ in his left hand. To the right and left of these are Siwang statues, and two statues each of the judge, Noksa, Inwang, and the Young Monk,replicating the appearance of judges in the Myeongbu Segye (other world). So shall we move on to Noju, located in front of Myeongbujeon Hall? ‘Noju’ is the shortened form of ‘Nobanjiju’, and was originally put up as two poles in the corners of the front of the chamber, to be later used as material in forming the tower’s Sangryupu (top part). However, why the Noju was made from additional building materials to the tower is unknown. Looking at the Sajung records, the relic was misnamed ‘Noju’, being originally known as ‘Gwangmyeongdae’. Additionally, it was said to have been a stone lantern in front of Mireukjeon Hall, protecting Mireuk’s light. If this record is assumed to be correct, then the ‘Hwasaseok’(light chamber) must be assumed to have been removed from the form that the Noju takes today. This aside, the Noju was created entirely out of techniques specific to the Goryeo Dynasty, and its value was acknowledged when it was designated as the No. 22 treasure. Next, we’re going to move over to Daejeokgwangjeon Hall. 9. Daejeokgwangjeon Hall

Title Daejeokgwangjeon Hall

Narration: Daejeokgwangjeon Hall is located to the west of Mireukjeon Hall, in the centre of Geumsansa Temple. Daejeokgwangjeon Hall is an ideal site for experiencing Buddhism: it’s a building that enshrines the principle icon and owner of the lotus sanctuary world, Vairocana. In temples following the legacy of the Hwaeomjong tradition, inner temples were mainly constructed to enshrinethis principle icon. And Daejeokgwangjeon Hall is also referred to as Birojeon Hall and Hwaeomjeon Hall, as it is said to have been the origin of Hwaeomgyeong Sutra and because it enshrines Vairocana. Hanging underneath the roof eaves is a sign that reads: Daejeokgwangjeon, in the handwriting of Hwang-wook of Jeon-buk, written here in 1991. Hwang-wook is the originator of the writing style known as ‘Akpilpop’, where instead of gripping the pen with his fingers, he gripped the pen in the palm of his hand and pressed down on his thumb in order to write: you can see examples of the font that he created at Hwaeomsa Temple. Generally in the Daejeokgwangjeon Hall of a temple, the Buddhas: Bopshin, Boshin, Hwashin amongst othersare enshrined around the Vairocana, symbolizing the lotus sanctuary world. However in Geumgangsa Temple’s Daejeokgwangjeon Hall, there are five Buddha’s and six Bosal (Buddhist saints) enshrined there. The prevailing meaning here is that, in order to be awakened to Buddha’s truth, the representing Buddha and Bosal of Mahayana Buddhism must be evenly accommodated, with no bias in denomination, and no division of goodness and faith. The grand scale of Daejeokgwangjeon Hall took root in Buddhist Master Su-moon’s rebuilding of the temple in 1635, following it being burned down in the 2nd War of Jeongyu. The enshrining of the Buddhas: Vairocana, Nosanabul, Sakyamunibul, Amitabul, and Yeoksayeoraebul, together with the six Bosal’s, shows that Daejeokgwangjeon Hall is a place of combination and unity. In 1986 the temple was destroyed by fire again, only to be restored in 1994. Next, let’s visit the Hexagonal Multi-story Stone Pagoda, located to the right of Daejeokgwangjeon Hall’s front courtyard.