Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels St. Petersburg

October - November 2014

Mellow Yellow Autumn beyond the city limits More than 10 years in Russia! Fine dining and great view Discover the world of Buddha-Bar inyourpocket.com N°97 Contents

Where to eat 28 ESSENTIAL Restaurants in hotels 42 CIT Y GUIDES Nightlife 45

Foreword 4 What to see 48 The Essentials 48 In the News 5 Hermitage 49 Arrival & Getting Around 6 St. Petersburg’s historical outskirts 52 Old Soviet Tours 54 City Basics 8 Where to stay 55 Language 9 Interview with concierge 56

Culture & Events 10 Shopping 58 Concerts and festivals 10 Russian souvenirs 58 Russian rock 16 Live music clubs 18 Expat & Business 60 Exhibitions 20 The Expat Experience 60 Features Maps & Index St. Petersburg theatre life 22 City map 62 Krestovsky and Yelagin Islands 24 Street index 64 Historic dining 35 Metro map 67 Konyushennaya area 43 Moscow 65

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www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket October - November 2014 3 Foreword In the News Across the meadows whirling blow The yellow leaves of fall; Happy Unity Day Petrovskaya Aquatoria No verdure in the woodlands now, November 04 is Russia’s Day of Popular Unity. This national September is traditionally associated with education and The dark green pine is all. holiday is a new old holiday having been celebrated for knowledge so what better time to hold the grand open- Beneath the boulder’s hanging crest, the first time in 1649 and commemorates the victorious ing of the historical theatrical scale model “Petrovskaya St. Petersburg In YourESSENTIAL Pocket No more on beds of flowers uprising in 1612 by Minin and Pozharsky which ejected Aquatoria”? This new unique exhibition is dedicated to founded and publishedCI TbyY OOO GUIDES Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket. The ploughboy seeks his midday rest Russia, 196084 St. Petersburg, Ul. Tsvetochnaya 25A, the Polish forces from Moscow. Celebrated every year from the history of the Nothern capital and the creation of the From hot laborious hours. tel: +7 (812) 448 88 65, fax: +7 (812) 448 88 64, 1612 up until 1917, the holiday was resurrected in 2005. It is Russian fleet and is presented in the form of a big lay- Sadly the wild wood creatures go General Director Tanya Skvortsova, [email protected] [email protected], russia.inyourpocket.com viewed by most observers as a replacement holiday for the out of St. Petersburg in the 18th century, showing the To hidden coverts deep; General Manager Chris Gilbert, [email protected] now-abolished holiday of November 7 which commemo- reconstruction of the city’s most significant sights and its The moon is dim; the meadows glow Managing Editor Ksenia Elzes, [email protected] rated the Revolution. Creating the confusion of how to you suburbs. As the most beautiful parts of St. Petersburg are In silver mist asleep. Researcher Anna Kohno, [email protected] congratulate someone on this holiday…Happy Unity Day! surrounded by water, there is a water filled space, which Design Malvina Markina, [email protected] Sales Managers imitates the water area of the city. Everyday guests are The words from this poem were penned by one of the Ilya Timshin, [email protected] welcome to come to the Admiral shopping center where greatest Russian writers of all time, Mikhail Lermontov, and Peter Smirnov, [email protected] “Petrovskaya Aquatoria” is located. www.peteraqua.ru are dedicated to autumn, the most beautiful yet the most Contributors Maria Stambler underrated season in St. Petersburg. It’s during the crispy Customer Service Manager Tanya Kharitonova, [email protected] autumn days so full of cool sunshine, high blue skies and Copyright notice changing leaves that St. Petersburg is at its best. And what Text and photos copyright OOO Krasnaya Shapka 2003-2014. All better way to immerse yourself in the kaleidoscope of rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any autumn colors than by exploring St. Petersburg’s imperial form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name suburbs? In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket. While the temperatures outside are quickly cooling, St. Pe- Editor’s note Le Baron opening tersburg’s cultural scene is heating up: theaters and concert The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from Two good friends Andre and Lionel from Paris and their halls are kicking off the season with fascinating programs paid-for advertising. We welcome all readers‘ comments and sug- gestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the loyal team of artists, musicians, designers, fashionistas and and a never-ending list of premiers. Going to the theater information at the time of going to press and assume no responsi- travelers quickly tired of the predictable electronica scene during your stay in St. Petersburg is an absolute must so bility for changes and errors. that so captivated Europe at the start of the new millen- Tse Fung IN the city turn to our special theater feature (pages 22-23) to see © OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket nium. So in 2004 they decided to throw their own eccentric What happens when you get the founders of Buddha-Bar what’s on. If getting your leather biker coat and Dr. Martens © Maps: J.J. van der Molen, www.jobvandermolen.nl Published 6 times per year with supplements, live-show parties called La Johnson. Very soon these par- and Il Lago dei Cigni, interior designs from the famous out is how you prefer spending your time, then going to No 97, 01.10.2014, 90,000 copies. ties became immensely popular with the Parisian crowd so American company Tihany and the Chinese words for one of the rock concerts (check pages 16-17) in the capi- For children aged 16 years and over. the parties moved to a larger and more permanent venue ‘phoenix’? The answer is the most anticipated Chinese res- tal of Russia’s rock scene is sure to be a truly head-banging which came to be known as Le Baron, where the musical taurant, which will completely change your understanding experience. mix ranged from Greg Boust to Francoise Hardy to Joy Divi- about this Oriental cuisine – Tse Fung! A completely new So, regardless of what you enjoy, the Northern Capital al- Cover story sion to The Beatles and the likes of Scarlett Johansson and type of Chinese eatery, this European project has finally ways has loads of treats in store for its visitors. Enjoy read- Bolsheokhtinsky Bridge. Officially opened in 1911, Leo DiCaprio were among the guests. Now it’s time to ex- made its way to the Northern capital becoming the first ing and don’t forget to share your impressions with us at and originally named the Peter the Great Bridge, this port the fun and madness so get ready, Le Baron is coming such experiment of the creators of Buddha-Bar and the first www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket! 9,000-tonne structure spans the Neva between the to St. Petersburg this November! www.facebook.com/ Russian experience for creative chef Chris Rusaban who’s Sinopskaya and Sverdlovskaya embankments to the lebaronstpete spent the last 17 years working for the best Chinese restau- Ksenia Elzes, Russia In Your Pocket east of the city centre. rants in the Philippines, UAE and Saudi Arabia.

About IYP Diaghilev P.S. ESTONIA This year is the UK-Russia Year of Culture so to celebrate this LATVIA RUSSIA We have come a long way in the 22 years since we joyous event, the Alexandrinsky Theater invites everyone NORTHERN LITHUANIA to the 5th International Festival of Arts “Diaghilev P.S.” (be- IRELAND published the first In Your Pocket guide - to Vilnius IRELAND BELARUS in Lithuania - so much so that we are today the tween November 19th and 29th) to see two outstanding NETHERLANDS POLAND British ballet companies Sutra (choreography by Sidi Larbi GERMANY UKRAINE largest publisher of locally-produced city guides BELGIUM CZECH Cherkaoui) and FAR (choreography by Wayne McGregor). REPUBLIC in the world. The publication earlier this year of

AUSTRIA guides to Johannesburg and to the islands of The ballet Sutra involves the participation 17 Chinese HUNGARY SWITZERLAND ROMANIA GEORGIA Санкт-Петербург Отпечатано ООО “Келла Принт”, monks who bring Kung Fu techniques into the heart of the SLOVENIACROATIA the Dutch Caribbean - our first guides in the ITALY В Твоем Кармане 191024, Санкт-Петербург, ул. BOSNIA SERBIA choreography, which is then combined it with an extrava- BULGARIA Southern Hemisphere - has taken the number Учредитель и издатель: Тележная, д. 17. MONTENEGRO o gant set design by the outstanding modern sculptor An- FYR MACEDONIA of guides published each year by In Your Pocket ООО «Красная Шапка» Заказ N 26829 ALBANIA Адрес редакции и издателя: tony Gormley. Wayne McGregor’s choreography has been GREECE to well over five million, spread across more than Россия, 196084 Санкт-Петербург Свидетельство о регистрации 100 cities on three continents. And there is more Ул. Цветочная д. 25, лит. А. средства массовой информации described as the “higher mathematics” of modern chore- DUTCH to come: make sure you keep up with all that’s тел. : + 7 (812) 448 88 65 Пи No. 2-6849 от 17.10.03 ography, bringing to it the latest scientific advances in the CARIBBEAN факс: + 7 (812) 448 88 64 выдано Северо-Западным SOUTH realm of the human body’s bio-rhythms. Additionally, the AFRICA new at In Your Pocket by liking us on Facebook Главный редактор: региональным управлением (facebook.com/inyourpocket) or following us on Бонни ван дер Велде комитета РФ по печати. “ANATOMY OF DANCE” conference and performances by o Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket). Цена свободная. Тираж 90 000 экз. N 97. the Perm Academic Theatre of Opera and Ballet will also Для детей старше 16 лет. 01.10.2014 take place. www.diaghilev-ps.ru 4 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket October - November 2014 5 Arriving & Getting Around Arriving & Getting Around

St. Petersburg has excellent public transport. The metro sys- The Traffic Police have stops when you enter a new zone Departing St. Petersburg by train: If you’d just like to get tem is amazing - attractive and efficient, it is the fastest way of jurisdiction. You are required to proceed slowly and out of the city for the day, local trains (electrichky) cheaply to get across town or into the central city. If you find Cyrillic there is a chance you might get pulled off. Don’t overpay connect the villages and suburbs to St. Petersburg. Elec- a bit of a squiggle, you’ll love the metro as it has translitera- the traffic police: the official penalty for driving 20-40km trichky to Gatchina, Lomonosov and Peterhof depart from tions for all the stations. To navigate your way from the met- too fast is 300Rbl, for 60km over the limit, it costs be- Baltic (Baltiisky) station, from Finlyandsky you can visit ro station to your destination you have a choice of buses, tween 1000 and 1,500Rbl. Driving through a red light Viburg, and Pushkin and Pavlovsk are covered by Vitebsky. minibuses (marshrutky), trolleybuses and trams - these are will cost 700Rbl and not wearing a seatbelt will cost There may be no toilets, but if you forgot to bring ice cream, less user friendly but once you know the routes and when 500Rbl. Most of the policemen do not speak English, band-aids or knife sharpeners a vender might be wander- to get off, they make getting around the city a breeze. If you which might make things difficult, or perhaps very easy. ing the aisle with just what you need. want to hop into something a little more comfortable, you In towns the speed limit is around 60 km/h, but road can always take a taxi. conditions often force you to drive more carefully and Baltisky station thus more slowly. QC-4, Nab. Obvodnogo kan. 120, MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 457 28 59, www.ozd.rzd.ru. Arriving in town Arriving by plane Finlyandsky station Arriving by bus St. Petersburg’s international terminal Pulkovo is located QE-1, Pl. Lenina 6, MPl. Lenina, tel. (+7) 812 436 67 46, St. Petersburg has several bus stations, so make sure you in the south of the city (metro Moskovskaya). The airport www.ozd.rzd.ru. know where you are going before you leave. offers the usual shops and restaurants within the terminal Ladozhsky station The central bus station (www.avokzal.ru) is a bit out of building and hotels nearby. Keep your eyes open for the QZanevsky pr. 73, MLadozhskaya, tel. (+7) 812 436 53 the way at Naberezhnaya Obvodnogo kanala 36, which is ATM machines and money exchanges (obmen valyuty) if 10, www.ozd.rzd.ru. a short taxi-ride (around 200-300Rbl) to the centre of town you urgently need some roubles. If you want to relax with Moskovsky station and about a 15-minute walk to metro Ligovsky pr. a coffee and cake before being collected or trying to find QE-3, Nevsky pr. 85, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 457 Eurolines buses (www.eurolines.ru) arrive at Baltiskaya your way into the city, be aware that the airport prices have 44 28, www.ozd.rzd.ru. metro station where you can take a taxi or just enter into been known to cause heart failure! Vitebsky station the metro system. To find your way into the city centre Getting into town: To get into the city centre you can take QD-4, Zagorodny pr. 52, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 812 make a bee-line for Nevsky Prospekt. Some bus companies Bus №39 or mini-bus (marshrutka) №39 to Moskovskaya 457 59 39, www.ozd.rzd.ru. have stops at the city’s main hotels. The proliferation of bus Metro Station (seven stops – it will take 15-25 minutes companies operating out of St. Petersburg means that you depending on traffic) and then take the metro into town could be dropped off at a number of different bus stops. (another seven stops in the metro – about 15-20 minutes). Public transport The main rule of thumb is to find your way to the nearest Once you are in the metro system you can get to most parts Petersburg residents get around the city using a variety of metro station or take a taxi. of town quickly. Keep you eyes open for maps of the metro transport options. The fastest and most efficient is the met- system if you need to find a particular station. ro. On above-ground transportation you can buy tickets covered shoulders of a local commuter. Scrolling banners Arriving by car If you choose to take a taxi, beware of the airport taxi driv- from the conductor or driver (25Rbl for bus, tram, trolley- above the driver’s cabin will list the next destination. Many Are you driving your car all the way to Russia? Remem- ers! They are notorious for overcharging, asking 1500Rbl bus) and up to 35Rbl for a marshrutka (mini-bus). All forms also feature pre-recorded announcements for the current ber the following: your National and International Driver’s and up for the 18-km ride to the city centre. Always agree of transport work from around 06:00 to just after midnight. and following stop. Routes are indicated on window plac- licence, registration and insurance documents for the car on a fare before getting in, keeping in mind that a reason- Official taxis are inexpensive by European standards and ards positioned on the side of each bus and trolley. and, of course, your passport with a valid Russian visa. At able price shouldn’t exceed 700-800Rbl. there is also the possibility of getting an ‘independent’ The marshrutka is a mini-bus taxi which follows a fixed the border, ask for an Immigration Card and make sure it is driver. route. The marshrutka concept emerged in the 90s as a stamped! Stay on the main roads, as you might get pulled Arriving by train St. Petersburg’s metro is one of the deepest in the world reaction to overcrowded public transport. These days, over for accidentally straying into a military zone (no, that is Arriving in St. Petersburg by train is convenient. All the train and one of the most beautiful. Central stations and those they go just about everywhere within the city and out to not a joke). Traffic police (recognizable by ДПС or ГИБДД or stations are located next to metro stations, so you simply on the red line are particularly impressive, featuring tons the suburbs. Sadly, they no longer run on Nevsky, which ГАИ) might also fine you for not having a fire extinguisher, need to step off the train and enter into the bowels of St. of Soviet symbology in bronze, glass and stone. It’s also disconnects them from much of the centre. They have set a first-aid kit, or for exceeding the speed limit, which on the Petersburg’s underground system and find your way to the fast and efficient and, during peak time, you won’t need departure points, but otherwise, when you see the number highway varies between 80 and 110 km/h. metro station nearest your destination. to wait more than three minutes for a ride. The metro runs you want, just hail it down like a taxi. To pay, hand your fare The normal procedure for pumping gas is that you first pay Vitebsk (Vitebsky) station is the destination for trains from from 06:00 till around 00:30. First, you’ll need to buy a to- (up to 35Rbl) to the driver or to the person in front of you. for a certain amount and then start filling up your tank. the Baltic States and Eastern Europe. Trains from Finland ken (zheton). Zhetons cost 28Rbl and can be bought from When you want to get off, yell out loudly, ‘ostanovite pozha- arrive at the Finland (Finlyandksy) station and Ladozhsky the window labelled kassa. There are five different metro luista,’ and the driver will come to a screeching halt. station, while Moscow (Moskovsky) station is the hub for lines, and to change lines, you usually need to change sta- Moscow bound trains. Long distance trains within Russia tions. There are underground passageways linking adjacent arrive and depart from Moskovsky and Ladozhsky stations. stations like Sadovaya/Sennaya Pl. and Nevsky pr./Gostiny TaxiS There are taxi stands outside every station and the drivers Dvor. When you arrive at a station, it can be difficult to see Taxis in St. Petersburg are relatively cheap. If you phone a there usually charge less than the ones waiting to pounce the name of where you are. You will hear the arrival station legitimate taxi company, you’ll be quoted an exact price for on the station platforms. If you are arriving from midnight announced, followed by the name of the next stop. This the journey. Unfortunately, not all of these companies have onwards be prepared for city transport difficulties. The met- can be confusing, so it’s best to count your stops. In rush English-speaking operators but in many big companies ro system will be closed for the night, so better take a taxi. hour, the metro can get a bit hectic and it’s at this time you you can book a taxi online: can see Petersburgers at their very worst: pushing, shoving Angel Taxi, (+7) 812 777 20 10, www.angel-taxi.com Read more online: and queue-cutting. Taxi 068, tel. (+7) 812 068, www.taxi068.ru www.inyourpocket.com/ Buses and trolleybuses are another option and they have Taxi 7000000, tel. (+7) 812 700 00 00, www.taxi7000000.ru russia/st-petersburg/arriving the advantage of allowing you to take in the architecture of New Yellow Taxi, (+7) 812 600 88 88, www.peterburg. the city, sometimes very slowly and often over the leather- nyt.ru 6 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket October - November 2014 7 City Basics Language

Be on guard! useful phrases

Avoid attracting unwanted attention by not speaking Basic frases loudly in your mother tongue, or walking the streets No/Yes Net/da Нет/Да if you have been drinking. If you are of African, Arab, Hello Zdrastvuite Здравствуйте or Asian descent exercise caution, particularly at night. Goodbye Dasvidaniya До свидания 02 - Emergency hotline. If you have problems and Thank you Spasibo Спасибо don’t speak Russian it may be better to call the Eng- lish language tourist helpine 8 800 303 05 55 and Sorry/excuse me Izvinite Извините (+7) 812 303 05 55. pocket dictionary: Please Pazhalusta Пожалуйста The Tourist Information office, Ul. Sadovaya 14, can Net Slov! I don't understand Ya ne panimayu Я не понимаю help you file a police report. Your consulate can help No words! As you wander around the many wondrous Do you speak Vy gavaritye Вы говорите you if your passport has been stolen. The police here buildings or through the treasure-filled halls of the Hermit- English? pa-anglisky? по-английски? generally look for any excuse to fine you, so photocopy age, you may find yourself lost for words. If someone says to Help! Pomogitye! Помогите! your passport and visa. Make sure that you always carry you, “Shto vy dumaete?”(what do you think?), a good reply is a few photocopies; if the police stop you (they check “U menya net slov, odni emotsi” (I have no words, only emo- I don't want Ya ne khachu Я не хочу Mnye (ne) Мне (не) Russians all the time too) then show them the photo- tions). We think this phrase will come in handy at any time, I (don't) like it copy rather than the original. in a museum, as you wander around the city or even if you nravitsa нравится find yourself on a crowded metro train at peak hour! May I? Mozhno? Можно? Registration Do you have...? U vas est…? У вас есть...? Remember that you must be registered within 7 days of I don't know Ya ne znayu Я не знаю your arrival in Russia (excluding weekends and public holi- How much is it? Skolko stoit? Сколько стоит? days). Hotels are legally obliged to register you within 24 Good Khorosho Хорошо hours of arrival. Many travel agencies can also register you. If you don’t get registered on time, you can expect serious Today Sevodnya Сегодня problems when leaving, ranging from paying a fee, to miss- Tomorrow Zaftra Завтра ing your flight while officials interrogate you. numbers Toilets Tualet Туалет Ostanavite Остановите, 1 adin 11 adinatsat 30 tritsat Stop here please Money pazhalusta пожалуйста 2 dva 12 dvinatsat 40 sorok The national currency is the rouble (Rbl). Banknotes come When? Kogda? Когда? 3 tri 13 trinatsat 50 pyatdesyat in denominations of 50, 100, 500, 1,000 and 5,000. Rouble What time is it? Katory chas? Который час? coins come in 1, 2, 5 and 10Rbl. There are 100 kopeks to a 4 chetyre 14 chetyrnatsat 60 shesdesyat Of course Koneshno Конечно rouble and kopek coins come in 5, 10 and 50. It’s illegal to 5 pyat 15 pyatnatsat 70 semdesyat pay in dollars or euros. Find ATMs at most metro stations, Happy Holidays! S Praznikom! С праздником! 6 shest 16 shesnatsat 80 vosemdesyat banks and large hotels. Password Parol Пароль 7 sem 17 semnatsat 90 devyanosta Foreigner Prices 8 vosem 18 vosemnatsat 100 sto 9 devyat 19 devyatnatsat 500 pyatsot The ‘foreigner price’ is a hangover from the good old days of Intourist-organised Soviet travel. At some theatres and 10 desyat 20 dvatsat 1000 tysicha museums, foreigners are required to pay two to five times The St. Petersburg Times is the premier English-lan- more than the Russian price. Ouch! These institutions insist guage newspaper in St. Petersburg, Russia. Published that Russian tickets are subsidised with foreigners paying the alphabet weekly, the newspaper covers local, national and inter- ‘real price.’ If you have a document (propusk), which says you national news as well as business, the arts, sport, en- work or study in Russia, you can usually get the local price. А A З Z П P Ч CH tertainment and much else that is of interest to both Б B И I Р R Ш SH residents and visitors to Russia’s cultural capital. В V Й Y С S Щ SHCH Alcohol Issued every Wednesday, the paper features expert The traditional Russian alcoholic drink is of course vodka. Г G К K Т T Ы Y commentary on the country’s changing political and The most traditional way to drink it is straight as a shot, fol- Д D Л L У U Э E economic landscape and provides valuable insight lowed by a salty snack. Beer (pivo) is now the most popular Е E М M Ф F Ю YU into the issues that frequently grab the world’s atten- alcoholic drink in Russia and Sovietskoye shampanskoye tion. Available at St. Petersburg’s top hotels, restaurants Ё YO Н N Х KH Я YA (Soviet champagne) is the national party drink. Take note and business centers citywide, as well as at important that you cannot buy alcohol in shops that is above 0,5% Ж ZH О O Ц TS Ъ, Ь no sound international events. between 22:00 and 11:00. 8 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket October - November 2014 9 Culture & Events Culture & Events Welcome to the cultural capital of Russia! 17.10 Friday After a day‘s hoofing it through the finest museums and october events Celebration of Romance JULIET AND ROMEO historical locations, you can watch a play, ballet, opera, 03.10 Friday Now and again all of us need a little romance in our lives. circus performance, rock or pop concerts any and every 20:00 Sophie Ellis-Bextor So what better way to fill our souls with love and pas- night you choose. A diva in the truest sense of the word, Sophie Ellis-Bextor sion than with a fine dose of romance music performed is coming to the Northern capital on October 3rd to bring by some of the most acclaimed Russian musical theater you a colorful mix of pop rock, alt rock, nu disco and synth performers? Swooning voices will fill Oktyabrsky Big Con- theatres pop that will make you dance and groove like there’s no cert Hall to bring the 17th edition of the by now annual Alexandrinsky Theatre tomorrow to hits like “Groovejet (If This Ain’t Love)”, “Mur- and beloved “Celebration of Romance - the St. Petersburg QE-3, Pl. Ostrovskogo 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 der on the Dance floor” and “Take Me Home”. This lovely Autumn” gala concert to the Northern Capital’s audience. 15 45, www.alexandrinsky.ru. Brit never tires of experimenting so in case you’ve already People’s artists of the Russian Federation Yuriy Laptev and Imperial Hermitage Theatre seen her, you can be sure that you can always expect Larisa Lusta, together with a great many merited artists, QD-2, Dvortsovaya nab. 34, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. something new from the artist who once even overtook will be accompanied by Yuriy Krylov’s masterful baton to (+7) 812 966 37 76, www.balet-spb.ru. Madonna in the British and European charts!QD-1, Club grant the soul what it so yearns on a gloomy autumn day Mariinsky Theatre A2, pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 - the finest of Russian romance music! Each melody, each QC-3, Teatralnaya pl. 1, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 326 309 99 22, www.sophieellisbextor.net. Tickets 800 - musical note is meant to inspire and give the gift of sonic 41 41, www.mariinsky.ru. 4,000Rbl. pure pleasure.QE-3, Oktyabrsky Grand Concert Hall, Li- 19.11 Wednesday - 21.11 Friday Mikhailovsky Theatre govsky pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 571 69 52, Watching a live musical in a theatre but in 3D might QD-2, Pl. Iskusstv 1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 43 www.kovzel.ru. Tickets 400 - 1,600Rbl. seem like a unrealistic idea, but the Polish director 19, www.mikhailovsky.ru. Janusz Josefowicz has made it a reality. In a flash of Saint Petersburg Opera 18.10 Saturday inspiration he tried what no one had tried before, QC-3, Galernaya ul. 33, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 20:00 Parov Stelar to combine a live musical with a state of the art 3D 67 69, www.spbopera.ru. The creation of Austrian musician and producer Marcus background, giving the impression that the perform- State Theatre of Musical Comedy Füreder, Parov Stellar Band, combines jazz, soul and pop ers are truly immersed in the world around them. The QD-3, Italyanskaya ul. 13, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 in a live set up that includes a driving rhythm section and world premiere of a 3D musical like this was the hugely 570 53 16, www.spbmuzcomedy.com. horns. Having gained experience DJing in the late 90s, popular ‘Pola Negri’ in Josefowicz’s hometown of War- Füreder later gained success producing under his own saw and on the back of this the new ‘Juliet and Romeo’ name, and since 2005 has pulled the strings at the centre musical will come to St. Petersburg in November. The concert halls and clubs of his own live group, featuring vocals from Cleo Panther. complex process requires 20 metres of space behind Club A2 With a tighter sound than ever, the band bring their raw the stage background to project the imagery, and giv- QD-1, Pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 energy to St. Petersburg on the back of new release, ‘Clap en that the whole thing is backlit, the performers cast 309 99 22, www.a2.fm. Your Hands - EP’.QD-1, Club A2, pr. Medikov 3, MPetro- no shadow on the backdrop, furthering the illusion of Club Cosmonavt 05.10 Sunday gradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www.parovstelar. reality. Teased with breathtaking graphics from the QD-4, Bronnitskaya ul. 24, MTekhnologichesky Insti- Temptation com. Tickets 1,300 - 3,800Rbl. superb ‘Pola Negri’ and sneak previews of ‘Juliet and tut, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www.cosmonavt.su. It’s ok to give in to temptation here and there…so save the Romeo’, viewers can undoubtedly expect a mesmeris- Grand Philharmonic Hall date for October 5th, when St. Petersburg’s dance theater ing dramatic experience surrounded and immersed QD-2, Mikhailovskaya ul. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 “Temptation” will be throwing a huge party in honor of its by the show’s dazzling graphics, thunderous sound 710 42 90, www.philharmonia.spb.ru. 5th birthday at the Ice Palace. Expect lots of razzle-dazzle, and sheer energy in what is a chance to catch a grass Jazz Philharmonic Hall fantastic lighting elements and unforgettable emotions roots performance of this truly unique and astonishing QE-3, Zagorodny pr. 27, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 from the various performances - each one unique and so new theatrical concept.QD-1, DK Lensoveta, Kamen- 764 85 65, www.jazz-hall.spb.ru. different from the one before - filled with energy, drive, noostrovsky pr. 42, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 JFC Jazz Club passion and a declaration of love via the incredible plastic- 994 99 09, www.jumeo.ru. QE-2, Shpalernaya ul. 33, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) ity of the human body. The culmination of the evening will 812 272 98 50, jfc-club.spb.ru. be a unique performance under the rain, where streams of Ledovy Dvorets water will be poured over the dancers.QLedovy Dvorets, QPr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. (+7) 812 718 Pr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. (+7) 921 770 00 66 20, www.newarena.spb.ru. 72, www.iskushenie.su. Tickets 1,000 - 2,500Rbl. 24.10 Friday Oktyabrsky Grand Concert Hall (BKZ) 20:00 Lenny Kravitz QE-3, Ligovsky pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 275 After the release of lead single ‘Chamber’ from Lenny 13 00, www.bkz.ru. Kravitz’s forthcoming tenth studio album ‘Strut’ fans will Small Philharmonic Hall be eager to see the man himself in action in St. Petersbur. QD-3, Nevsky pr. 30, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 83 As if writing, producing, arranging and playing all the in- 33, www.philharmonia.spb.ru. struments on his records wasn’t enough, Kravitz is an un- Sport Concert Complex (SKK) forgettable performer, winning the Grammy for Best Male QPr. Gagarina 8, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 812 378 17 Rock Vocal Performance for a record four years in a row 10, www.spbckk.ru. and also appears in the hugely successful Hunger Games Yubileiny Sports Palace film series.QLedovy Dvorets, Pr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bol- You can buy tickets for many events at QC-2, Pr. Dobrolyubova 18, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) shevikov, tel. (+7) 800 555 07 70, www.lennykravitz. www.kassir.ru and www.bileter.ru 812 702 36 22, www.yubi.ru. com. Tickets 1,800 - 4,500Rbl. 10 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket October - November 2014 11 Culture & Events Culture & Events 27.10 Monday 09.11 Sunday 19.11 Wednesday 20:00 The Neighbourhood NOVEMber events 19:00 Elton John 19:00 Sarah Brightman The new American band on the world indie rock scene, 04.11 Tuesday Perhaps best to simply You would be hard pushed The Neighbourhood, have injected their catchy single 19:00 Ruki Vverkh point at the man’s title to list the achievements of ‘Sweater Weather’ into general consciousness from the The legendary Russian pop group Ruki Vverkh! have attracted as a Knight of the Realm, English classical crossover much anticipated debut album ‘I Love You.’ released in the whole nation’s attention with their constant run of big nothing less than several soprano Sarah Brightman, April 2013, on the cusp of a rising trajectory from their hits since 1996, and will send the crowd wild with a perfor- pages of countless acco- but pointing to her inspira- two previous EPs. The band’s polished sound has seen mance celebrating their 18th birthday at Ledovy Dvorets. lades could do the six time tional roles in the Andrew them touring worldwide on the back of the album’s Regardless of age, the group’s big tunes appeal to those of all Grammy award winner Sir Lloyd Webber musicals success, and after receiving much love from the Peter- backgrounds, and the unmissable forthcoming performance Elton John justice, and his ‘Cats’ and ‘The Phantom of burzhtsy on their first visit the band can expect an en- will be sure to include all favourites, old and new. Touring all return to St. Petersburg the Opera’ and that she has thusiastic welcome back when they return to A2 club. over the world, performing as many as twenty concerts a at Ledovy Dvorets will sold over 30 million records QD-1, Club A2, pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. month or more, and recording new material, this will surely be met with as much en- to become the best selling (+7) 812 309 99 22, www.thenbhd.com. Tickets 1,200 be a popular highlight on their home turf.QLedovy Dvorets, thusiasm as anywhere. With 40 albums to his name, this soprano of all time wouldn’t be a bad start. From winning - 2,500Rbl. Pr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, ‘Follow the Yellow Brick Road’ tour celebrates one of the the Grammy award for Best New Classical Artist in 1986, www.rukivverh.ru. Tickets 1,100 - 2,200Rbl. best of them, 1973’s magnificent ‘Goodbye Yellow Brick Brightman has received 180 Gold and Platinum awards in Road’, after whose release the man became the legendary over 40 countries worldwide, and her latest album Dream- 04.11 Tuesday Elton John we know and love today.QLedovy Dvorets, Pr. catcher is hailed as her strongest yet.QE-3, Oktyabrsky 20:00 GusGus Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. (+7) 800 555 07 70, Grand Concert Hall, Ligovsky pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, One of the three great www.eltonjohn.com. Tickets 1,800 - 15,000Rbl. tel. (+7) 812 380 80 50, www.sarahbrightman.com. pillars of Icelandic music, Tickets 1,200 - 12,000Rbl. along with Björk and Sigur 09.11 Sunday Rós, GusGus have released 20:00 One Republic Cirque Éloize eight studio albums since Soaring to stardom from humble beginnings on MySpace, their formation in 1995, OneRepbulic took the musical world by storm with the and are currently pro- single ‘Apologize’, remixed by Timbaland, reaching num- moting their new album ber one in sixteen countries and earning a Grammy nomi- ‘Mexico’. The rolling roster nation. Following up their platinum first album ‘Dream- of those involved with the ing Out Loud’ in 2007 with 2009’s ‘Waking Up’, the band 28.10 Tuesday group include musicians, returned from a three and a half year hiatus to produce Bollywood Express producers, film makers and performers, and the band even ‘Native’ in 2013, sparking a huge worldwide tour which The bright star studded show ‘Bollywood Express’ will kick started the career of the singer Emiliana Torrini. They brings them to St. Petersburg.QD-1, Club A2, pr. Medikov make its first long anticipated appearance in Russia on 28 have remixed the likes of Björk, Sigur Rós, Depeche Mode 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www. October. Dazzling colours, costumes and dancing make and Moloko, and their current album promises to combine onerepublic.com. Tickets 1,800 - 6,000Rbl. this a breathtaking spectacle which has enjoyed enor- all their diverse influences from synthpop to trance.QD-1, mous popularity in France, originally written by an Indian Club A2, pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 journalist living in Paris. A tale of love where a naive young 309 99 22, www.gusgus.com. Tickets 1,500 - 3,000Rbl. French journalist is greeted in Mumbai on her first visit 18.10 Saturday - 25.10 Saturday to India by a local man keen to show the vibrancy of real 06.11 Thursday - 09.11 Sunday Visits from the world-famous Cirque de Soleil are Indian culture, the show’s constant momentum will leave Crazy Horse eagerly awaiting – notwithstanding Russia’s own your heart racing.QE-3, Oktyabrsky Grand Concert Hall, The legendary Paris caba- mastery of the Big Top, the international troupe from Ligovsky pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 918 85 17, ret is coming back to St. Canada never fails to deliver a show-stopping event in www.ohproekt.ru. Tickets 1,000 - 4,000Rbl. Petersburg for a special its own right. In 2014, meanwhile, audiences are be- four-day engagement. A ing treated to a new spectacle. Cirque Éloize, a spin-off special programme, For- founded in 1994, has long earned a great reputation ever Crazy, has been cre- 18.11 Tuesday for pushing the boundaries of circus art and has al- ated specifically for the 19:00 Nino Katamadze ready thrilled Moscow audiences with its ‘Rain’ show. St. Petersburg audience. From a platform of great domestic popularity in Georgia, This time we get Cirque Éloize iD, a modern-day Ro- Since its founding in 1951, Nino Katamadze has become a real star of jazz further meo & Juliet from the heart of the urban jungle. A cut- this symbol of Paris has afield, and will bring her ensemble ‘The Insight’ and own ting-edge contemporary soundtrack and a dazzling been attended by more unique heart warming voice to the northern capital. Typi- stage show bring together a fresh new take on an eter- than six million people. The Crazy Horse always brings to cally effortlessly combining traditional jazz with the colour nal love story. Combining the grace of ballet with the the stage fantastic costumes scantily clad over beautiful of her own Georgian culture, Katamadze will even team up breathtaking showmanship of a top acrobat, the pro- bodies, choreographed dances, modern design. The ten with a real orchestra under the baton of Nikoloz Rachveli duction is set to wow audiences in Russia just as it has numbers choreographed specially for this engagement as a special treat for her St Petresburg fans, making this a in dozens of cities around the world. October brings promise to tantalise and titillate.QD-1, DK Lensoveta, special performance not to be missed.QE-3, Oktyabrsky just eight St. Petersburg dates – book early! QA-1, SK Kamennoostrovsky pr. 42, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) Grand Concert Hall, Ligovsky pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, Sibur Arena, Futbolnaya alley 8, MKrestovsky Os- 812 918 85 17, www.lecrazyhorseparis.com. Tickets tel. (+7) 812 380 80 50, www.nino-katamadze.com. trov, www.cds.ru. Tickets 1,000 - 3,500Rbl. 1,800 - 7,500Rbl. Tickets 1,000 - 5,000Rbl. 12 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket October - November 2014 13 Culture & Events Culture & Events 21.11 Friday cinema 19:00 Ken Hensley ex-URIAH HEEP The legendary founder and songwriter of the British band If you are looking for a night at the movies without Uriah Heep, Ken Hensley, will bring the band’s greatest hits having to play some sophisticated form of charades to to this classic 1920s concert hall. Well known as one of the work out what’s going on - we have good news for you. big four seminal hard rock bands from the 70s, along with There are now movie cinemas in St. Petersburg that Led Zeppelin, Deep Purple and Black Sabbath, Uriah Heep show movies in English or their original language. If have sold an impressive 40 million albums worldwide. The you are looking for a truly English experience you can’t band’s cult following continues today and Hensley contin- go past the Angleterre which now shows all movies ues to tour worldwide.QGorkogo Palace of Culture (DK in English with Russian subtitles. Formula Kino also Gorkogo), pl. Stachek 4, MNarvskaya, tel. (+7) 812 252 show some films in English as does Avrora. Dom Kino 75 13, www.ken-hensley.com. Tickets 600 - 2,500Rbl. shows art house movies and you can expect to come across movies in all sorts of languages. So if you want to chill out with a good movie in English or practice one of your other languages, check out these cinemas and enjoy a night at the movies.

Angleterre Cinema Lounge QD-3, Hotel Angleterre, Mal. Morskaya ul. 24, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 59 90, www. angleterrecinema.ru. Avrora QE-3, Nevsky pr. 60, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 942 80 20, www.avrora.spb.ru. Dom Kino QE-3, Karavannaya ul. 12, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 21.11 Friday 812 314 56 14, www.domkino.spb.ru. Rhythm of the Dance Formula Kino Galeria This Irish dance group’s name, Rhythm of the Dance, truly QE-3, Galeria Shopping Centre, Ligovsky pr. 30A, reflects their highly acclaimed act - the thunderous but per- MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 800 250 80 25, www. fected tapping of shoes in their take on traditional Irish folk formulakino.ru. dancing, will keep a whole hall rapt with attention. Nomi- nated by IQ magazine as ‘Best Dance Show’ the group even 19.11 Wednesday go beyond their colourful energetic dance routines and per- 20:00 Roxette form live music on stage over two hours of unmissable ac- Fans of the Swedish duo, Roxette, will have been thrilled tion. Combining traditional values of Celtic dance with new to hear that after the 25th anniversary of the group’s first stage technology, the company perform over 200 shows a US No. 1 hit, ‘The Look’, the band announced a worldwide year and might leave you so inspired as to tap dance all the tour to start in Russia in October. Having sold a stagger- way home.QE-3, Oktyabrsky Grand Concert Hall, Ligov- ing 60 million records worldwide, racking up big hits and sky pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 918 85 17, www. gold and platinum awards in countries all over the world, rhythmofthedance.com. Tickets 1,000 - 4,000Rbl. St. Petersburg’s Ledovy Dvorets is privileged indeed to kick off what promises to be a hugely popular tour, and fans can only keep their fingers crossed for a new album in the pipeline.QLedovy Dvorets, Pr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. (+7) 800 555 07 70, www.roxette.se. Tickets 1,000 - 4,500Rbl.

Nikolaevsky Palace, 4a pl. Truda, St. Petersburg For all the latest concert, event and Telephone: +7 (812) 312 55 00, 312 88 58 exhibition news follow us on facebook at www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket e-mail: o‚[email protected] 6+ www.folkshow.ru 14 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket October - November 2014 15 Culture & Events Culture & Events 08.11 Saturday Russian rock 19:00 Naiv Russia’s love of real rock music shows no sign of letting up As full of energy as they were 25 yeas ago when founded soon, especially not in the cultural capital. Legendary big by two Russian army recruits, the fathers of Russian punk players in the game like Kalinov Most, Piknik, Bi-2, Chizh celebrate this landmark with a grand reunion tour sending & Co and Naiv keep returning for sellout tour after sellout the crowd as crazy as ever. The Petersburg fanbase will be tour and names like Neschastny Sluchay and Surganova & thrilled by all the band’s classic hits as well as treated to Orchestra keep the genre constantly refreshed. What seems early airings of new songs. If that wasn’t enough, the show like something of a takeover of the city’s great music ven- will be decked out with special effects and stage design ues tempts you with more than enough choice for a night specially for this sell out gig.QD-1, Club A2, pr. Medikov of rock music to remember. 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www. 15.11 Saturday naive.ru. Tickets 900 - 3,000Rbl. 20:00 Neschastny Sluchay 05.10 Sunday 11.10 Saturday Despite the group’s name translating as ‘Unfortunate Ac- 20:00 Auktsyon 19:00 Piknik 14.11 Friday cident’, it is certainly no accident that the Russian alterna- One of the most interest- Despite the concert’s epigraph of “Being a stranger every- 19:00 Bi-2 tive rock band have achieved such acclaim nationwide. As ing acts of Russia’s rock where, forever a stranger in the world...” taken from a song Bi-2 can proudly proclaim well as vast domestic popularity the group has stretched scene and St. Petersburg’s from the new album ‘Chuzhestranets’ released this year, the itself one the best loved their tours to Finland, Spain, Germany, Czechoslovakia, the finest, Auktsyon, will de- infamous Russian rock band Piknik are certainly no strang- rock bands in the whole of UK and USA. Formed in 1983 by the two Moscow State liver a whole new show to ers in St. Petersburg. Founded back in 1978 by Edmund Shk- Russia and can boast the University students Aleksey Kortnev and Valdis Pelsh, the its hometown crowd. For lyarsky, the band have moved through genres like original ‘Best rock project’ award group has since released thirteen albums and brings thirty more than 20 years, Oleg Russian, progressive and jazz rock. Promoting new material from Russian MTV and years worth of well loved music to A2 in St. Petersburg. Garkusha and co. have from the album which recently appeared at the top of the ‘Best rock group’ from the QD-1, Club A2, pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. been creating a magical Russian iTunes rock chart, the band will also play favourite national awards, ‘Muz TV’. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www.ns.ru. Tickets 800 - 3,500Rbl. aura with music that tran- hits from their 36 year history.QE-3, Oktyabrsky Grand The band are promoting scends all levels of the sub- Concert Hall, Ligovsky pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) their nineteenth studio album ‘#16plyus’, set for release in 16.11 Sunday conscious and poetry that 812 380 80 50, www.piknik.info. Tickets 1,300 - 4,000Rbl. the Autumn, including a collaboration with Smyslovye Gal- 20:00 Surganova & Orchestra every true fan knows by heart. The band believes in the lyutsinatsii and more as yet unannounced. Continuing to An array of talented mu- “here and now” so it is impossible to predict how a par- 23.10 Thursday surprise and amaze their reams of fans throughout Russia, sicians hopping nimbly ticular concert will turn out - happy or sad, philosophical 19:00 Chizh & Co be sure to catch this exclusive chance to hear the new mate- between electronic and or punky.QD-4, Club Cosmonavt, Bronnitskaya ul. 24, The title of Rock Fuzz maga- rial before the album’s highly anticipated release.QLedovy acoustic instruments earned MTekhnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, zine’s ‘Band of the Year’ in Dvorets, Pr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. (+7) 812 Surganova & Orchestra a www.auktyon.ru. Tickets 800 - 2,000Rbl. 1997 is a testament to the 303 33 33, www.rukivverh.ru. Tickets 1,100 - 2,800Rbl. 2004 nomination for best Russian rock group Chizh live band and the victory of 05.10 Sunday & Co’s enduring popularity 14.11 Friday the prestigious FUZZ maga- 20:00 Kalinov Most with those from all walks of 20:00 Bravo zine’s song of the year award To be often hailed as the life over its 20 year history. When the weather starts turning cold and grey on the added to the success of over first Russian folk rock band Founder Sergey Chigrakov streets of St. Petersburg only Moscow’s stilyagi from Bravo 100,000 sales of their first is no mean feat for the has succeed in taking fa- can let in some blast from the past sunshine. A band with album, ‘Neuzheli ne ya’. Blurring the lines between classical hugely popular group mously American blues quite a history, Bravo has been delivering its own unique and rock, it is indeed Surganova’s alter ego the violin which Kalinov Most. Founded music and infusing it with in an unmistakably Russian soul, twist of rock ‘n’ roll and good old 80’s music for more than is most often called for at gigs. The new album ‘Igra v Klas- in 1984 in Novosibirsk by and comments that he tries to create even a domestic type of 30 years now. Logically, the band’s audience should have siki’ (translation: Hopscotch) reflects this genre straddling and Dmitry Revyakin, the group blues, whose popularity will make for a packed out Okyabrsky aged with the band itself but this is not so with Bravo! offers more genuinely original compositions.QD-1, Club A2, is heavily influenced by tra- hall.QE-3, Oktyabrsky Grand Concert Hall, Ligovsky pr. 6, Nowadays, the band’s concerts are visited by the children pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, ditional Russian folk music, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 380 80 50, www.chizh.net. of those people who did the twist at illegal discos in the www.surganova.su. Tickets 1,000 - 3,500Rbl. and the band’s name itself Tickets 1,300 - 5,000Rbl. mid 1980’s.QD-4, Club Cosmonavt, Bronnitskaya ul. 24, refers to a bridge between MTekhnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, 30.11 Sunday the living and the dead from Russian folklore and has now 26.10 Sunday www.bravogroup.ru. Tickets 900 - 2,500Rbl. 20:00 Tarakany! taken a mythological significance of its own due to the 20:00 Smyslovye Gallyutsinatsii Tarakany! is the word for cockroaches in Russian but it group’s nationwide acclaim. The gig at A2 celebrates Revya- Save the date for October 26th as this will be a very special is also the name of one of Russia’s most prominent and kin’s 50th birthday, and will include a plethora of new songs jubilee concert for a very special Russian rock band! This year, beloved punk bands headed by the one and only Dmitriy from a king of Russian folk music.QD-1, Club A2, pr. Me- Smyslovye Gallyutsinatsii are celebrating 25 years together “Sid” Spirin. Though a band with a lengthy history, Taraka- dikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www. on a creative path that has taken the band through tough yet ny! have always stayed true to themselves and that means kalinovmost.ru. Tickets 700 - 1,500Rbl. highly productive musical stages. Blending elements of old a firm, recognizable sound, energetic performances and school rock with the new wave of Russian rock that emerged a down to earth kind of cool that makes people from all Stay up-to-date as the Soviet Union was beginning to collapse, they have ab- sorts of layers of society - students, journalists, freaks and sorbed the best of classic elements as well as the progressive even Cannes nominees - keep coming back for more posi- facebook.com/ tendencies of contemporary music.QD-4, Club Cosmonavt, tive energy and vibes!QD-4, Club Cosmonavt, Bronnits- StPetersburgInYourPocket Bronnitskaya ul. 24, MTekhnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) kaya ul. 24, MTekhnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 812 303 33 33. Tickets 1,000 - 3,000Rbl. 303 33 33, www.tarakany.ru. Tickets 700 - 1,500Rbl. 16 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket October - November 2014 17 Culture & Events Culture & Events five minutes from Tekhnologichesky Institut metro. The Live music clubs hall stretches back from the stage with space for 1500 jazz clubs restaurants Russia’s cultural capital is truly buzzing with live music. people and is flanked by bars on both sides, and a large Jazz Philharmonic Hall Aside from the world famous Mariisnky Theatre, the mezzanine upper level offers VIP seats and another bar. As a reviewer one has to admit that we are often guilty city’s contemporary music venues more than hold their The double bar on the main floor saves you from heavy of throwing around the words ‘Unique’ and ‘Original’. De- own with other main European cities. Whether it’s pop, queuing and offers reasonably priced drinks, and a couple spite this, it cannot be denied that the Jazz Philharmonic rock, hip hop or jazz you want to see, there is something of clouded stairwells serve as a smoking area. A qual- truly is one of a kind, distinct to St. Petersburg in both its for everyone, from the huge capacities and sound sys- ity sound and lighting system means the energy really genre of music and its atmosphere. The red lamplit tables tems of Cosmonavt and Aurora to the quiet jazz bars picks up as the hall fills, underlining it as one of the city’s create a surreal setting as the musicians on stage wish you dotted around the city. St. Petersburg is firmly on the principal live music venues. The club is also available to away into the world of jazz. The intimate nature of the map for international music tours, so be sure to catch hire for private functions.QD-4, Bronnitskaya ul. 24, venue allows the audience to connect with performers in some world famous acts in an unforgettable venue. MTekhnologichesky Institut, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, a way that larger venues simply could never achieve. Ro- www.cosmonavt.su. mantic and also full of life, if you feel the urge to dance A2 don’t resist the temptation - there’s more than enough It’s no wonder that A2 claim to be the biggest concert room! To top it off, there’s also delicious cocktails, coffee venue in St. Petersburg, just take a quick look at their and deserts available to order at a moments notice.QE-3, The idea of combining some of the city’s great cuisine past line-ups. From living legends such a Chuck Berry, to Zagorodny pr. 27, MZvenigorodskaya, tel. (+7) 812 764 and the popularity of live jazz has thankfully been contemporary bands such as Fall Out Boy, The Smashing 85 65, www.jazz-hall.spb.ru. nailed here in St Petersburg. At 48 chairs and Port Artur Pumpkins and The National, if there is one thing A2 do you can eat your fill of delectable dishes from the city’s not lack, it’s quality music! It’s hard to believe the venue JFC Jazz Club finest chefs and then sit back and digest to the jazz ac- has only been around for 2 years given how quickly it has The low lit assorted tables companiment of St Petersburg’s top musicians. made a name for itself. With no fewer than 10 bars you and chairs in front of a low 48 chairs won’t find yourself struggling to buy a drink here. Despite stage watched over by the An elegant but cosy venue whose walls are crammed having 2 concert halls, holding as many as 5,000 people jazz legends on the wall with black and white photos, this is a great place to and 1,500 people, don’t wait around for a ticket, they sell immediately underline JFC have a sumptuous meal and catch a bit of quality live out fast!QD-1, Pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. Zal Ozhidaniya as the real deal. The stage jazz. Head chef Vasily Soldatov’s improvisation in the (+7) 812 309 99 22, www.a2.fm. The owners of Zal Ozhidaniya (the name is translated as has a full kit, baby grand kitchen matches that of the city’s top jazz musicians “Waiting Room”) have really taken the idea of a concert and decent sound and who play nightly at 48 Chairs, taking inspiration from venue and made it their own. Priding themselves on lighting. The bar menu, so many of the world’s cuisines and combining them their all-embracing attitude towards music, fans of rock, although innovatively dis- in his own key signature. The drinks menu contains pop, rap and indie will all find themselves at home here. played over a CD case, suffers from this compact format, an impressive selection of wines to accompany the We are not sure which is more diverse; the international where only a few cocktails accompany few beers and unique cooking and a long list of liqueurs, aperitifs artists that perform here night after night, or the various spirits. The ambience is that of a jazz bar that doesn’t try and digestifs will complete the jazz bar experience. music lovers that follow them in. In any case, this club is too hard, but effortlessly succeeds in shrouding you in a The vibrant cooking makes for an unforgettable meal all about variety. The club is ideally located, situated cen- cool jazz vibe. At full stretch, the bar can accommodate and you’ll be tempted to work your way through the trally between stations Baltiskaya and Frunzenskaya and up to a hundred audience members varying from local drinks list whilst reclining to some smooth blues to there’s also a convenient car park for the drivers amongst jazz fanatics to opportunist tourists. Tickets on the door become that last lingering guest for whom the res- you. With a chill-out room, VIP area and plenty of comfy will offer standing room, or a more expensive table, for a taurant promises to stay open.QE-3, Ul. Rubinsh- sofas, don’t be afraid to enjoy a moment of your feet - trust gig that could range from jazz standards to experimental teina 5, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 77 75, Aurora concert hall us, the way the Russians party, you’ll need one!QE-4, Nab. funk from one night to the next.QE-2, Shpalernaya ul. www.48chairs.com. This huge arena attracts the biggest DJs from Russia and Obvodnogo kanala 118, MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 333 33, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 272 98 50, www. abroad, offering space for 2000 people and views of the 10 68, www.clubzal.com. jfc-club.spb.ru. Port Artur cruiser Aurora moored on the Neva from its riverside lo- Port Artur offers you the wonderful opportunity to cation near Ploshchad Lenina metro station. The circular Jimi Hendrix Blues Club enjoy a lovely meal and listen to some smooth jazz hall opens up onto several levels providing space for 600 Under the bare brick arches of an intimate bar is a jumble of music at the same time (madness…we know!) No seated diners and a 150 strong VIP area. The venue also of- wooden tables and chairs directed towards a small stage. compromises are made on the quality of either. The fers a smaller hall on the second floor with its own bar and The blues fans of St. Petersburg gather every night to lis- restaurant itself is perfectly proportioned, orientated wifi, a restaurant of American and European cuisine and a ten to energetic performers who may even roam through around a fashionable bar that makes a very classy cen- wide selection of beers. State of the art lighting and sound the crowd and onto tables. There is a quiet buzz to this in- trepiece. With such a wide variety of dishes to select, systems establish this as a big deal on the live music scene nocuous bar, frequented by true blues lovers and tourists the biggest issue we faced was narrowing down our in the city. Be sure to check the place out online for up- alike, where a big blue musical heart beats through the choices! Nonetheless, the staff’s refined knowledge coming gigs.QE-1, Pirogovskaya nab. 5/2, MPl. Lenina, cosy basement. A reasonably priced drinks menu is avail- proved it’s value and the end result was simply de- tel. (+7) 812 907 19 17, www.aurora-hall.ru. able, including a strong array of spirits and cocktails to sip lightful. To guarantee yourself live music try and turn on to complete the experience. With its bare vintage brick up at the weekend, though it has to be said that even Club Cosmonavt and wooden aesthetic and posters nodding to the blues without music, the atmosphere, bar and food will do Cosmonavt’s cavernous hall and great stage make it a legends, the atmosphere is laid back but flared into life by anything but disappoint.QE-3, Zvenigorodskaya ul. popular destination for Russian and international big the camaraderie of enthusiastic musicians and audience 12/17, MZnenigorodskaya, tel. (+7) 812 953 32 50, names, like Bristol’s Bonobo and drum and bass DJ Benny alike.QE-2, Liteiny pr. 33, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) www.portartur-spb.ru. Page. The club is situated on Moskovsky prospekt, only 812 579 88 13, www.hendrix-club.ru. 18 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket October - November 2014 19 Culture & Events Culture & Events through 10.11 Monday Manifesta 10 Exhibitions Beyond figurativism in the Russian art Erarta exhibitions through 03.11 Monday of the second half of the 20th century Manifesta is arguably Valentin Sidorov. My calm homeland The exhibition is devoted to the works of Ely Belyutin and the most prestigious This exhibition introduces the work of Valentin Sidorov, win- his followers. The 60s and 70s was a period in Soviet art and important art event ner of the State Prize of the USSR in 1984. The exhibition when those who did not want to conform to the norms of in Europe and has been will be on display from the 3rd of September until October the Academy of Art embarked on an independent path to taking place on a bien- 2014. Born in 1928 Sidorov is an acting member of the Rus- find their artistic selves. Unlike the masters of the previous nial basis for the past 20 sian Academy of Arts and Chairman of the Union of Artists decades (Malevich, Filonov, etc.) these new aspiring art- years now. It’s principle of Russia. The exposition will display 90 of his most creative ists did not have the institutions backing their vision. The vision was to provide works from 1950 to 2000. He is considered the master of the founder of this movement was Ely Belyutin (1925-2012) and a platform for cultural “Spiritualised landscape”, with his art often pertaining to na- this exhibition reveals the history his art studio “Novaya exchange across Europe, especially in the aftermath of ture, it’s eternal cycle and how it is connected to the people realnost” (The New Reality), his life and his creative strug- the Cold War. Twenty years after the first Manifesta in of the Russian countryside. Epitomising the national char- gle with the help of more than 70 pieces.QD-2, Russian 1996, over one million people have participated in the acter of the USSR Sidorov’s work unsurprisingly addresses Museum, Marble Palace, Millionnaya ul. 5/1, MNevsky events and enjoyed programs in which artists, cura- the motherland, analysing the so-called Russian soul.QD-2, pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 42 48, www.rusmuseum.ru. Open This autumn, the Erarta Museum of Modern Art has tors and young professionals from forty countries have Russian Museum, Benois Wing, nab. kan. Griboedova 2, 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue. a few very special exhibitions prepared for St. Peters- presented themselves and their work. Many of Europe’s MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 42 48, www.rusmuseum. burg’s art addicts. “Russia in Vogue” (October 16th finest cities have played host to this esteemed event, ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue. through 18.11 Tuesday - December 15th) is dedicated specially to 15 years including Rotterdam, Luxembourg, Ljublana and Frank- Together and apart – the urban Russian of Vogue Magazine in Russia. Over more than a cen- furt, however we can say with pride that this year St. Pe- family in the 20th century tury long history, the pages of Vogue Magazine were tersburg has the honour of hosting the 10th Manifesta, The Russian family - an graced by more than a thousand Russian faces and running until October 31st 2014. interesting way to look at this exhibition will feature some of these portraits The main events will be held in the stunning loca- the history of Russia in the ranging from Ida Rubinstein to Mark Chagall. Also, tion of the Palace Square, split with two thirds of the 20th century through a visitors will see photo reports from fashion shoots of events held at the General staff building and one more personal lens. “To- iconic photographers behind the iron curtain in the third held at the Winter Palace (the Hermitage). De- gether and apart - the ur- USSR. “Russia in Vogue” demonstrates how Russian spite falling under the general title ‘contemporary art’, ban Russian family in the super models conquered the world and how many the range of events available for public viewing are 20th century” shows all the legendary fashion collections were inspired by Russia incredibly diverse and wide-ranging. Consequently, huge social and political and Russian culture. in this feature we have tried our best to identify some occurrences of the century of the best picks from Manifesta, the events that are through 09.11 Sunday through the prism of the everyday routine of people go- The next art treat from Erarta Museum of Modern truly unmissable. But to really make the most of the Nikolai Yevgrafov ing about their day to day lives. Families were all affected Art is the exhibition of Sergey Bondarev’s works, this magnificent event, try and leave yourself a day In honor of the 110th birthday of Nikolai Ivanovich Yevgrafov by the socio-political order of the day, the extent of ur- which will run from October 31st - November 24th. and immerse yourself in as much as you can, as there (1904-1941) - a St. Petersburg native and a talented painter, banization, improvements in healthcare, the ideology of Bondarev is famous not only as a fashion designer will be countless interesting and intriguing artists, graphic artist and theater artist - the Museum of History of the ruling classes and so on.QD-2, Peter and Paul For- who believes that “fashion is not the baby sister of talks and exhibitions here merely at the touch of your St. Petersburg is putting a collection of his works on exhibi- tress, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 64 31, www. art, but a form of art in its own right”, but also as a fingertips! QСheck out the full program at www. tion between September 8th and November 9th. A student spbmuseum.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Wed. talented artist who depicts the ubiquity of fashion manifesta10.org of the prominent Soviet avant-garde artist Pavel Filonov, within society - its glitz and glamour in social life - Yevgrafov was part of the “Masters of Analytical Art” group, through 02.03 Monday in his paintings. As well as the beauty of fashion in Top tips which played a very important role in Leningrad’s art scene Images of War our everyday lives, Bondarev also portrays the cult 1. Every day of the Biennial, free Open tours will take in the mid 1920s. Yevgrafov lived during the most dramatic This year marks the 100th an- of consumption in a grotesquely ironic way.QB-3, place in the General staff building at 12:00, 14:00 and and turbulent times of Russian history - the 1917 Revolution niversary of the start of the Erarta Museum and Galleries of Contemporary 16:00. and the Civil War- and all this left an imprint in the artist’s First World War. The Avant- Art, 29-ya liniya 2, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 2. Every last wednesday of the month, starting from mind, who died on the frontline in 1941.QD-2, Peter and garde museum is exhibiting 812 324 08 09, www.erarta.com. July, Manifesta will run a lively night show, displaying Paul Fortress, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 64 31, 30 works by notable futurist independent artists and musicians, free with a valid www.spbmuseum.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Wed. artists, who formed an artistic Hermitage ticket. group dedicated to the re- 3. Every weekend Manifesta 10 conducts free tours of vival of the traditional Russian the General staff building from 10:30 for families with lubok (print) in the wake of a children. surge of patriotism against a common enemy. Visitors can 4. If you want a break from Palace square, head to view posters based on the drawings of celebrated avant- Vitebsky station, another key, vibrant venue of Mani- gardists Kazemir Malevich, Aristarkh Lentulov, Vladimir festa 10, the first train station in Russia to connect east Mayakovsky and David Burliuk. In addition, 14 lithographs and west. by Natalia Goncharova from the cycle “Mystical Images of 5. Manifesta have an handy app, available to download War” will be displayed.QD-1, Museum of the St. Peters- for free in the app store. Here is the link, enjoy! www. burg Avant-garde, ul. Professora Popova 10, MPetro- Manifesta10.org/en/app/ gradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 347 68 98, www.spbmuseum.ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Fri 13:00 - 20:00. Closed Wed and Fri. 20 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket October - November 2014 21 Features Features

In recent years, the Mariinsky has begun to colonise the The lavish luxury of the Mikhailovsky Theatre (www. Auer Music Violin and String Quartets Competition, “Silver St. Petersburg Theatre life surrounding area - the sleek contemporary walls of glass mikhailovsky.ru) echoes the elegance of the Mariinsky, and Lire” The 5th International Festival Of Chamber Music, a cel- You couldn’t possibly come to Russia’s cultural capital and which peer out behind the back of the main theatre with an admirable history from its founding in 1833, can ebration of the 200th anniversary of Mikhail Lermontov and not see any of its vast array of theatre, music and dance, and constitute the hall’s sparkling new younger brother, the proudly declare itself one of Russia’s most distinguished music the 170th of Rimsky Korsakov, a selection of jazz and a visit with season openings everywhere now is the time to catch Mariinsky II. The hall’s interior curves back in a horseshoe venues. Named after Grand Duke Mikhail Pavlovich of Russia, from the St. Petersburg Youth Orchestra. an unforgettable show at an unforgettable venue. shape from the main stage with clean lines and wooden the theatre was established after a decree from Tsar Nicholas I, panelling, and the fantastic new acoustics and technol- and played host to visiting French companies until the Bolshe- ogy have been picked up on by all reviewers. The bright viks took power in 1917. In a somewhat contentious move, the interior breathes elegance over a crowd enjoying a glass of Russian businessman Vladimir Kekhman was appointed as the pre-concert champagne and the performances themselves Theatre’s General Director, and fortunately poured 1 billion rou- range from classic repertoire to more contemporary works bles into the theatre’s refurbishment before winding up bank- completely at home in the setting. rupt in London in 2012. Ballets of the coming season include The Mariinsky II proudly presents its own new version of Swan Lake, with the choreography of Mikhail Messerer, pre- Tchaikovsky’s Eugene Onegin, premiered in February miered at the Mikhailovsky in 2009, and a production based 2014 as a co-production with the National Centre for the on Marius Petipa’s revival of the ballet Le Corsaire, with music Performing Arts (Beijing). A marriage of the music of the from Adolphe Adam. Choreographer Nacho Duato’s 2012 bal- If you’ve heard anything about St. Petersburg, you will have celebrated Russian composer Rodion Shchedrin and the let ‘Multiplicity. Forms of Silence and Emptiness’ tells the story The title of oldest Russian national theatre is one that the leg- heard of the famous Mariinsky Theatre (www.mariinsky. choreographer Aleksey Ratmansky appears twice on the of Johann Sebastian Bach’s life, where modern choreography endary Alexandrinsky Theatre (www.alexandrinsky.ru) ru). Opened in 1860, it was home to premieres of works Mariinsky II’s new playbill, with the 2010 choreography of is combined with baroque music from the father of counter- can boast, established on August 30 1756, the day of Saint by many of the Russian greats, like Tchaikovsky, Mussorg- the ballet Anna Karenina, based on the Tolstoy novel, and point and his choreography of Prokofiev’s sensational Romeo Alexander Nevsky. Originally named after Alexandra Fyodor- sky and Rimsky Korsakov, and now enters its 232nd season. the ballet The Humpbacked Horse which premiered at the and Juliet will take place in November. Karen Khachaturian’s ovna, wife of Nikolai I, the imposing structure was designed On the site of an Equestrian Circus which burnt down, the Mariinsky in 2009. A production of Puccini’s Madama But- children’s ballet Cipollino will no doubt be a popular Sunday by the popular Italian architect, Carlo Rossi, who worked for architect Albert Cavos designed a new opera and bal- terfly, premiered at the Mariinsky in 2005, will run several hit for the younger generation and the Puccini opera Manon most of his life in Russia, his legacy also including the bright let theatre to be the largest in the world with a capacity performances over the winter, ranking seventh of the most Lescaut will appear in late October. white Yelagin Palace and Mikhailovsky Theatre. The theatre’s of 1,625. Appointed as the home of the Imperial Ballet in performed operas worldwide. A world premiere of Rossini’s performance history practically runs as an A to Z of the na- 1886 after the Bolshoy Kamenny Theatre was deemed Il Barbiere di Siviglia from the director Alain Maratrat takes tion’s great actors and directors, and premieres of great works unsafe, the theatre was lavishly renovated and was home place on 29 October, widely regarded as the opera buffa of from the likes of Aleksander Griboyedov, Aleksander Ostro- to many of the premieres from the master choreographer all ‘opere buffe’. vsky, and Aton Chekhov have all taken place there. To add Marius Petipa. Originally named after Empress Maria Alex- The new addition to the family, the Mariinsky II, ought not to the venue’s star studded history and graceful architecture, androvna, wife of Tsar Alexander II, the theatre was known to overshadow the Mariinsky Concert Hall just a stone’s the 250th anniversary of the theatre in 2006 heralded the as the Kirov theatre throughout most of the Soviet era, but throw away on Ulitsa Dekabristov however - a world class unveiling of a new renovation bringing with it 21st century changed to its present name in 1992, the State Academic chamber concert hall in its own right. technological capabilities to the historic venue. Mariinsky Theatre. The world renowned conductor Valery The hall as usual features high profile acts from around Gergiev has presided over affairs there since 1988, with a the world as well as the resident Mariinsky orchestra, The Tovstonogov Bolshoy Drama Theatre (www.bdt. stream of almost constant concerts meeting the Russian where classic Wagner Galas and Russian favourites will spb.ru) on Fontanka takes its name from Georgy Tovs- public’s high demand, and these days juggles the role with be the stars of the show. Benjamin Britten’s opera A Mid- tonogov, the theatre’s highly regarded director from 1956 Principal Conductor of the London Symphony Orchestra summer Night’s Dream returns to the Concert Hall after The St. Petersburg Opera Company (www.spbopera. to 1989, and is considered one of the finest theatres in Rus- making him one of the busiest and certainly best travelled its premiere there in 2011 - entering the standard reper- ru), although a relatively young establishment, has been sia. Pioneered by Maxim Gorky, Maria Andreeva, Alexander conductors around today. toire soon after its premiere in 1960, it is an exponent of met with great acclaim over its 22 seasons and is received Blok and Anatoly Lunacharsky after the 1917 revolution, Those looking for a classic Mariinsky experience will jump Britten’s very specific subtle style while not overtly dis- positively on world tours. Finding a permanent home in an the Osobaya Drammaticheskaya Truppa (Special Drama straight to the timeless Swan Lake in the theatre’s season sonant. The second international organ festival returns to intimate mansion on Ulitsa Galernaya, the music is played Company) debuted in 1918 with the intention of staging programme, opening on 26 September. Inspired by the the Mariinsky Concert Hall from 24 - 30 October, and will in a divine and intimate setting of jaw dropping architec- classics for the masses, finding its permanent home at 65 ballet writing of Delibes, Tchaikovsky composed most showcase organ music from Bach, Liszt, Mendelssohn, ture. The first version of the mansion was built at the end of Fontanka embankment at the former Suvorin Theatre. of the ballet in just one year, using the idea of Leitmotif, even a Dave Brubeck arrangement, and many more. The the 18th century, lavishly redesigned in 1876 and bought famously made popular in Wagner’s operatic writing, to modern concert hall’s impressive acoustics and state of in 1880 by Baron Sergey Pavlovich von Dervis. October will Taking upon its shoulders in 1944 the important burden of bring out distinctive melodies weaving the story together. the art organ will hopefully mean that the festival contin- include performances of classics like Don Giovanni, Eugene continuing the city’s theatre productions at a time when Despite the premiere in 1877 being something of a flop, ues for years to come. Onegin, La Bohème, Tosca and La Traviata. most companies had been evacuated, the Maly Drama the ballet’s enduring popularity means it will surely never Theatre (www.mdt-dodin.ru) started life humbly per- leave the Mariinsky, and this year’s production is based on The dazzling white columns and glittering chandeliers forming as and when it could without a permanent home. the Kirov’s own 1950 premiere of Konstantin Sergeyev’s mark out the Shostakovich St. Petersburg Academic Gradually picking up support from the public, the theatre choreography. More from the revered Tchaikovsky comes in Philharmonia (www.philharmonia.spb.ru) as quite a began to gather momentum through the involvement of the form of the opera Eugene Onegin, the Kirov’s own 1982 space before the music even starts, and having seen the Lev Dodin in 1974, who served as the theatre’s chief direc- version, with helpful English subtitles to guide you through some of the finest performers from not only Russia but all tor from 1983 and artistic director from 2002. Also going by the full length of this Russian masterpiece. Alexander Gor- over the world since the 1840s, the venue continues to offer the name ‘Théâtre de l’Europe’, tourists will be pleased to sky’s classic 1900 choreography of the ballet Don Quixote, high class performances. A busy forthcoming programme know that English subtitles are often on offer here. The the- with music from Ludwig Minkus returns to the Mariinsky includes chamber music, orchestral works and jazz, featur- atre regularly participates and holds workshops in theatre this autumn, as well as Tchaikovsky’s classic Nutcracker, ing many international acts and both of the hall’s residents, festivals around the world, and Dodin himself has taught at with Vasily Vainonen’s 1934 choreography, and the Marius the St. Petersburg Philharmonic or Symphony Orchestras. St. Petersburg State Theatre Arts Academy from 1969 and Petipa version of Giselle, with music from Adolphe Adam. The coming months include The 2nd International Leopold holds the position of head of stage direction department. 22 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket October - November 2014 23 Feature Features metres from the metro exit, just across the road. Remember Krestovksy Island: that feeling as a child, walking into a sweet shop? The same The origin of the name of the Island is still contested to this kind of nostalgia awaits you at Divo Island. Entry to the fun- day. Many claim the name refers to a lake on the Island, fair is free and customers need only pay per ride, however it which appears to be cross-shaped. Others, however, sug- is possible to buy a pass for the day, allowing you to enjoy gest that on Swedish maps the Island is referred to, in Fin- as many rides as you’d like at a fraction of the cost. The rides ish, as “Cross Island”. Whilst the Russians may contest the really are very diverse; there are ‘children’s rides’, ‘family rides’ name of the Island, one thing they definitely do not contest and ‘extreme rides’. For our braver readers, we dare you to is that there is plenty of fun to be had here! It therefore try out Booster or Catapult - at your own risk of course! The should come as no surprise that over the weekend the Pe- park is open from 12:00 until 23:00 on weekdays and 11:00 tersburgers flock in their masses to Krestovsky Island. until 24:00 on weekends, but bear in mind that the more The simplest way to access the Island is by metro; the sta- extreme rides open slightly later. A handy local tip is that tion, Krestovsky Ostrov, is located on the Purple V5 line in the prices drop after 21.00; this may prove to be cheaper the north of St. Petersburg. Fortunately the metro only has but perhaps consider the consequences of riding the roller one entry and exit point, so there’s no need to think twice coasters straight after dinner! about which way to go. After exiting the metro simply walk down the steps towards ulitsa Ryukhina, and if in doubt, follow the crowd! Once you approach the road you will find yourself with several choices depending on the kind of itin- erary you’re looking for. By the end of this feature we hope that any individual can plan out a lovely day at Krestovky Island, just as the locals do! One great option available to you is walking along Yuzh- naya doroga. Whilst there may not be any specific des- tination awaiting you here, this street really captures the essence of Krestovsky Island. To find it exit the metro and turn turn left on ulitsa Ryukhina and continue walking up until Krestovsky prospekt. Turn right on Krestovsky prospekt and then keep straight until you reach a roundabout. At the Divo Island really is a child’s dream come true, making roundabout continue straight and you will find yourself on Krestovsky Island a place for the whole family. Nonetheless, Yuzhnaya doroga. Without having any end goal in mind, Russian couples and groups of friends alike all come out walk at leisure down this street and you will pass numerous here to make the most of the sunshine and enjoy them- bars, cafes and restaurants. Instead of picking and settling selves in a way you might think only children can. When St. Petersburg’s on any one place, why not consider trying out a few differ- you’re in the park you’ll notice people skating around on ent ones, after all, variety is the spice of life! If you need a roller blades or riding around on bicycles - this is a must- little inspiration, check out two of our favourite bar/clubs do! As well as being a fun mode of transport it is also a Vozdukh and Zimaleto. Better yet however, keep your eyes convenient way to get around, and with so many beautiful best breaks pealed for shashlik tents. These are small tents dotted all features in the park to take in, strap on your wheels and around the Island, where you can buy beer and other bev- head in any and every direction. There are so many little erages, or classic snacks like corn on the cob. The beauty of stalls selling snacks, treats and drinks, you’re guaranteed to this kind of dining, and what makes it so popular with Rus- come across a bench where you can eventually sit down sians, lies in its simplicity. It’s just going back to basics; good and enjoy them along with the view! Krestovsky and Yelagin islands provide a food and good company - all out in the fresh air. The football fans amongst you may relish the opportunity Having left the metro station, another great choice is Divo of viewing Zenit St. Petersburg’s stadium, or what’s left wonderful alternative to the ever-buzzing Island, the funfair ground that truly put Krestovsky island of it! Formerly known as Kirov stadium, Zenit’s home is on the map. It’s impossible to miss, located no more than 20 currently undergoing a complete renovation. Interestingly, city centre - no wonder you find Russians to settle on a design for the stadium, a competition was set up, and following a unanimous vote, Japanese architect gravitating towards them on weekends. Kisho Kurokawa won. His project has generated a lot of publicity, largely due to its intriguing name, “Spaceship”. There’s enough activities to occupy even the The refurbished, state of the art stadium will have a capac- ity of no fewer than 62,000 seats. The stadium is situated most ambitious amongst you, so we’ve picked on the West of the Island and, hopefully, it should prove easy to find! After exiting the metro station cross the road out the best bits of both islands. With places and head left. Take the first right, Batareinaya doroga, and continue down this road until you approach a roundabout. to eat, museums to ponder and parks to Head straight on at the roundabout, again along Batarein- aya doroga, and in no time you’ll be able to see the stadium admire, go at your own pace, relax and enjoy. ahead of you. 24 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket October - November 2014 25 Features Features

This feature has hopefully left you with plenty of food for delta, was inhabited by fishermen before the city was even ridor is devoted to the bold and sophisticated sculptures of thought, but in case you’d like one final option, exit the founded. It was presented to Peter the Great by Peter Mukhina herself, with background information about her metro and turn right along ulitsa Ryukhina. Keep walking Shafirov in 1709, his vice chancellor, but was taken back life and work. TV screens run short documentaries about until you reach Yelagin Most, at which point you can turn after Shafirov faced a death sentence in 1723 for embezzle- the glass making process, and a couple of installations and left along naberezhnaya Martynova. Here you can take ment. Previously named after a bear allegedly spotted by information placards explain the evolution of the fine art of a romantic walk alongside the river, making for a splendid soldiers on the island in the 18th century, the park’s current glass making over the years. view. Not only are there more shashliks here, but also a name derives from a famously hospitable former owner of It is well worth circling the island for the views across the number of open air bars and restaurants, making a lovely the island, Ivan Yelagin (1725-1794), who made all gar- waters of the Neva. Apart from an unfortunately noisy main alternative to the hot, stuffy city centre. Walking straight dens open to the public. road on the bank of the opposite shore on the north side ahead as you approach the end of naberezhnaya Martyno- of the island, you can look out across the placid waters to- va there is a Yaught club, displaying some of the finest wards other parts of the city, or indeed out to sea. Proceed- yaughts St. Petersburg has to offer. Of course it is also pos- ing to the very western tip of the island takes you to a view- sible to use Yelagin most to cross over onto Yelagin Island; point at the Gulf of Finland. Here you will again find two to find out more feel free to take a read of our other feature! Demuth-Malinovsky, and Stepan Pimenov. Floral pat- lions flanking a platform from which to enjoy the view of Ultimately, Krestovsky Island gives you the chance to jump terns, scenes from mythology and gilded carvings twirl the glittering Neva joining the open sea. Although marred off the tourist trail. The Island is a great escape from the fast across the elaborate ceilings and walls, dragging your eyes slightly by the industrial edges of the city and the construc- pace of life in the city centre and in a way allows you to re- across every inch of intricate detail. Each room is decorated tion of Krestovsky Island’s new stadium, the quaintly di- live your youth too, and let’s be honest, no one’s getting any individually, with impressive exquisite marble, patterned lapidated bobbing fishing boats and a haze of distant land younger! As always, save the best until last, so here’s one flooring and painted ceilings which echo the Hermitage’s on a bright day is well worth crossing the island for. final piece of advice; Krestovsky Island is a truly wonderful grand neoclassical style, albeit on a lighter and more man- place to simply get lost on, so use the directions merely as a ageable scale. The palace is sometimes known as the ‘pal- guide and nothing more. Whether walking along the river, ace of doors’, as no two of the inlaid doors are the same. The along the coast, or through the funfair, don’t worry about first floor of the palace is used as an exhibition space for where you’re going, the sense fun and adventure will find the Museum of Decorative and Applied Art and Interi- you, we guarantee it! ors from the 18th-20th Centuries, established in 1987. After The radiant Yelagin Palace stands proudly at the head Fyodorovna’s death in 1828 the palace was often unused, of a long sweeping lawn, where two majestic white lion apart from Tsar Nicholas II leasing it to his prime ministers statues, inspired by the Medici lions in Florence, guard a until the 1917 revolution. During the siege of Leningrad in perfectly symmetrical staircase to the entrance. The palace World War II, the palace was badly damaged by shelling, was completed in 1822 as a summer residence for Tsar Al- but was rebuilt in the 1950s and now shows off its glamor- exander I’s mother, Maria Fyodorovna. It was designed ous interior to the public. by the Italian architect Carlo Rossi, who also designed the The palace’s outbuildings, including the Guardhouse pa- Mikhailovsky Palace of the Russian Museum, masterfully vilion and Flag Pavilion, are scattered amongst the trees On the site of a monument to architects at the eastern creating the pearly white curves, columns and dome nes- surrounding the palace. Dedicated paths will lead you edge of the park, you can look straight down the Bolsh- tled among the greenery of the park. It is built on the site of around the assorted bright white structures, decorated by aya Nevka curving inland towards the rest of the city. The a mansion designed by the architect Giacomo Quareng- beds of vivid flowers. In full bloom, the colourful flora, clean southern shores reveal St. Petersburg’s own marina where hi, built from 1785-1790 during the rule of Catherine the white walls and pockets of dazzling water will make for a modest collection of polished yachts twinkle in the sun- Yelagin Island Great, as a gift to the island’s namesake, Ivan Yelagin, a some unmissable photo opportunities. shine before the green backdrop of Krestovsky’s equally An island which is entirely parkland is the perfect place close friend and ally during her time as Grand Duchess. lush parkland. You will feel pleasantly removed from the for a leafy stroll, echoing the sun drenched Vondelpark of Retiring to his own island and Palladian Villa, Yelagin im- bustle of central Petersburg while enjoying the quiet Amsterdam or the dappled pathways of Paris. The island mersed himself in his study of alchemy. In later years, after natural side of the city. lies between the Bolshaya and Srednaya Nevka; its west- complaining that she was no longer able to make day trips To escape from the pollution and hubbub of activity in cen- ern tip offers a view point of the Gulf of Finland and at to other palaces, Maria Fyodorovna was given the current tral St. Petersburg and find the city’s greener side, a visit to its eastern shore a view down the Bolshaya Nevka towards palace by her son, Tsar Alexander I, as a summer retreat. Yelagin is a must. Though more lavish grandeur can be found mainland St. Petersburg. Exiting Krestovsky metro station The architect Carlo Rossi fastidiously redesigned every de- in the Hermitage, the clear elegance of Yelagin palace and facing the park opposite, you should turn right and follow tail of the old villa, whose richly detailed neoclassical inte- its effortless harmony with its green surroundings offers a the road to the bridge to Yelagin Island. Once there, follow- riors were decorated by Giovanni Battista Scotti, Vasily cultural element to a relaxing day trip to a charming park. ing the winding pathways between the trees eventually reveals a well-kept lawn stretching towards the elegant bright white Yelagin palace peeping out from the trees. A meandering stream of people of all ages can be found wandering or roller blading along the twisting paths, In the palace’s Orangery today resides the Glass museum. over bridges and under the dappled light of the trees. The collection displays the work of Leningrad Glass Art Fac- The 237 acres of gardens have faithfully preserved centu- tory, operating from 1940 until 1997, founded by the in- ries old trees and special flora, and because of this some fluential Soviet glass sculptor Vera Mukhina. The factory areas are indeed off limits. There are convenient cafes hid- produced innovative and colourful glassworks both for do- ing amongst the trees, play areas for children and even the mestic use and also as experimental art. Around 8000 glass chance to take a boat or pedalo out on the island’s ponds. works are displayed in three halls in a simple and thought- The island, the smallest of the Kirov islands in the Neva’s fully lit display that twinkles from every angle. A whole cor- 26 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket October - November 2014 27 Where to eat Where to eat Cococo NEP Founded by Sergey Shnurov, the previous frontman of the NEP is a delightful cabaret den which pays glorious hom- ska-punk band Leningrad, this restaurant is just a short age to the sultry swinging 1920s. The atmosphere is cosy walk from the Nevsky Prospekt and worth the small de- and warm, softly lit with candles so you can settle back, tour. Here you can try a wide variety of real Russian cui- order your meal and be enthralled by the musicians with sine, which is made using local farm products, as well as their charming, personality packed star singer. They offer homemade fruit drinks (in interesting flavours, such as an array of delicious fish and meat dishes, all exquisitely pumpkin), lemonade, and organic wine. The meals are well presented and served. If you’re sitting close to the per- presented, and wholesome, including dishes such acorns formers, it is likely you’ll find yourself part of the night’s tiramisu and thistle soup. The basement restaurant has entertainment.QD-3, Nab. reky Moiky 37, MAdmiral- low ceilings and generates a cosy and relaxed atmosphere. teiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 571 75 91, www.neprestoran. QE-2, Ul. Nekrasova 8, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Wed - Sun 12:00 - 01:00. €€. 812 579 00 16, www.kokoko.spb.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, PAESW Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. €€. PASW Olivie Gogol Named in honour of the famous Russian salad, of which It is immediately apparent in every thoughtful detail of the various types are served here in abundance. Olivie offers St. Petersburg is brimming with colourful, innovative and decor and menu that this is a labour of love. Love for the Russian and Caucasian dishes with the chef’s personal fun restaurants serving everything from traditional Russian history of the city, its literary culture and fine gastronomic interpretations. Classic walnut source with chicken, deli- to nouvelle cuisine. To be sure of getting a table, make sure traditions. The literary references are subtlely done, with cate veal cutlets with green sauce, a classic Khachapuri or to book in advance. Be aware that many restaurants morph Gogol’s famous overcoat hanging in the entryway, a vase of a mixture of dried fruit for dessert - it’s just a small part into bars and clubs in the later hours of the evening, so quills in place of flowers in one room and a menu designed of what you the chef offers. Olivie is located within a five make early reservations if you want some peace and quiet. and illustrated to read like a novel. Each chapter is devoted minute walk from Palace Square, directly opposite the Tip for good service only - 10% is considered fair. to a different course and every item is a careful selection, el- Admiralty. This restaurant is perfect for every mood, every Our price guide is based on the average price of egantly executed to reflect the delicate aristocratic tastes of occasion and every company.QD-3, Admiralteisky pr. 8, a main course: 19th century Russia.QD-3, Mal. Morskaya ul. 8, MNevsky MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 945 84 72. Open 12:00 € - 0 - 400Rbl €€ 400 - 800Rbl pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 60 97, www.restaurant-gogol.ru. - 23:00. €€. PTAGSW €€€ 800 - 1,200Rbl €€€€ 1,200Rbl plus Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PTAS Russkaya Ryumochnaya No.1 Idiot Typically a ryumochnaya is a stand-up, spit-and-sawdust With numerous rooms filled with comfortable and cosy kind of a place where working men wash down cheap Russian and Ukrainian antique furniture, eclectic titbits and reading material in vodka with salty snacks. This sophisticated fin-de-siècle Caviar Bar and Restaurant English and Russian, Idiot is worth visiting just for the atmo- inspired place is as far away from that kind of place as you Cool marble envelops the intimate dining space atop the sphere. Here you can taste a variety of traditional Russian can imagine. This is Russian food fit for tsars, complete with first tier of the Grand Hotel Europe’s elegant staircase, dishes, with a decent selection of vegetarian food and a rea- black caviar and reindeer meat. The historic dishes are rich but the impeccable service is as warm as the flickering sonable kids menu. Many people though come to Idiot sim- and well made, making this a very classy introduction to candles. Not surprisingly, caviar makes many appearances ply to absorb the atmosphere, and to drink. Guests are given Russian cuisine. They also have possibly the biggest vodka on the menu, but never one that is out of place. You can a complimentary mini-shot of vodka, while the cordial eng- list we’ve ever seen, as well as a vodka museum!QC-3, try the Kamchatka crab in champagne sauce, or the de- lish speaking staff hand you the Dostoevsky inspired menu; Konnogvardeisky bul. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) licious Beef Stroganoff, but only after touring your way then, during happy hour (18:30 - 19:30), you get two draught 812 570 64 20, www.vodkaroom.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. around the heavenly hors d’oeuvres, while sampling the beers or glasses of house wine for the price of one, plus the €€. PTAULESW vodka recommended by the city’s only vodka sommelier. complimentary vodka. Quite the deal!QC-3, Nab. reky Business lunch is served between 12:00 - 15:00.QD-3, Moiky 82, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 921 946 51 73, www. Belmond Grand Hotel Europe, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, idiot-spb.com. Open 11:00 - 01:00. €€. PTASW Asian and Indian MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 66 22, www.caviar-bar. Cardamon com. Open Wed - Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00. Koleso This yet to be fully discovered Indian restaurant is located €€€€. PALEW Step down into the warm and cosy cave that is Koleso on the spit of Vasilevsky Island, right in the historic centre and get settled in for an evening of old Slavic comfort. of St. Petersburg. The oriental style interior is completed SYMBOL key Iron candelabras give the room a medieval glow, while by Indian tapestries on the floor. Definitely worth sam- the crisp creamy tablecloths lend things a romantic touch. pling is its delicious naan and poppadom. Longtime In- The menu is truly Slavic and will satisfy anyone looking for dian resident in St. Petersburg Ravi runs the show around P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted a good fill of wholesome Russian food. Meat is king and here and is determined to make it a great success. Food- E Live music S Take away there is a broad choice of succulent meaty cuts as well as wise, he got everything right, although we were a bit delicacies such as tongue and liver to be found in the ex- amused by the selection of Russian dishes on the menu T Child-friendly U Facilities for the disabled tensive menu. The waitstaff are professional and know the as well; we haven’t yet given those a try, but as for Indian Q G Non-smoking areas L Guarded parking menu well and will be happy to guide you through some food, Cardamon is a welcome addition to the city. C-2, of the region’s more unusual dishes.QD-3, Voznesensky 1-ya liniya 18, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 313 V Home delivery W Wifi pr. 2, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 21 25. Open 38 99, www.cardamom-bar.ru. Open 11:00 - 23:00. €€. 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTASW PTASW 28 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket October - November 2014 29 Where to eat Where to eat friendly chefs communicate with diners using their mobiles, Birreria Craft Bier Cafe serving up flavorsome authentic dishes with impressive Located on the second floor of the Vladimirsky Passage Beer-lovers be warned! 40 different kinds of beer can be culinary style to diners rather than thrown at you, unlike shopping complex, Birreria offers an excellent view onto found in Craft on tap, more than anywhere else in St. Peters- other typical Teppanyaki restaurants around the world. Our Lady of Vladimir Cathedral. This is a good place to stop burg. And not only the well-known kinds, but also Craft’s With tables that can sit up to eight people, this is a great of with friends to watch sport on a Friday evening, drink a special Russian brew. Owner Sergey takes specific pride in place to fuel up before heading out for a night on the town. few beers (with brands from all over Europe, this should having four different kinds of lager available that he specially QE-4, Ligov Shopping Center, Ligovsky pr. 153, MOb- keep you busy all evening) and unwind after a week of made based on his own favourites from Russia, Belgium, the vodny kanal, tel. (+7) 812 602 04 96, www.meatline2014. hard labour. The menu offers your classic Italian favourites Netherlands, Germany and other countries he has visited ru. Open 11:00 - 23:00. €€. PTASW and is worth every rouble. Service is good an unobtrusive in search of exotic examples of his favourite beverage. The and the beer is enough to put anyone into a good mood, bar itself is located a short walk from the Summer Garden Tandoor so you are bound to have a good time regardless of your and well worth a visit. The atmosphere is laid-back and it Chopsticks Situated mere steps from St. Isaac’s cathedral, Tandoor is company!QE-3, Vladimirsky pr. 19, MVladimirskaya, is easy to mingle with locals and expats alike. Craft serves Chopsticks is fine dining Chinese restaurant. The interior about as far away from bland Russian food as you can get. tel. (+7) 812 943 60 04, www.birreria.ru. Open 12:00 - good pub-food, but it’s beer that rules.QE-2, Gagarinskaya has been decorated in the traditional Chinese style with For 19 years now they’ve been serving up real, authentic 02:00. €€. PASW ul. 6, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 983 55 59, www. the walls decorated with traditional paintings. Quiet back- Indian fare and have won numerous ‘best restaurant’ priz- craftpub.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Tue - Thu 12:00 - 02:00, ground music adds to the refined Oriental atmosphere. The es for their efforts too. They have all the usual favourites Bruxelles Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. €€. PAEW master chef produces not only his favourite Szechwan and so you can try a couple and share amongst your buddies, If you like delicious, good European food and drink, Cantonese dishes but also popular dishes from India and whilst mopping up every last dollop of sauce with the Bruxelles should be on the top of your list. The res- Dickens Thailand. The central location makes this one of the most thick naan bread. With two rooms, this place is ideal for taurant does not provide you with the fine dinning This British island near the Fontanka river has beer from all convenient Chinese restaurants to visit in St. Petersburg. a large group, much like when you see the city’s Indian experience but the food is delicious, reasonably priced around the world, including more than ten on tap, and a lot Be prepared to take your time over the meal and expect community trooping in for their banquets.QD-3, Admi- and has fast, efficient service. The music is loud, and al- of superior whiskeys. The snacks and food are good too (the to use chopsticks!QD-3, Admiralteisky pr. 8, MAdmi- ralteisky pr. 10, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 though some might find this off-putting, there is plenty chicken wings are our favourites) and come in huge portions. ralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 51 15, www.facebook.com/ 38 86, www.tandoor-spb.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€. of space for patrons and it is still comfortable to talk in Don’t forget to try the breakfast here - it’s a great hangover chopsticks.spb. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PTSW PTALEGSW small groups. The bar has a solid wine list and offers a cure and real authentic British. Dickens has an authentic pub wide variety of beers including trappist and craft beers atmosphere, which is as close to a real British pub that you’ll Curry House Tandoori Nights - just the thing to wash down a fantastic meal!QE-2, find in Russia and also features a fine dining restaurant on Well known St. Petersburg resident and chef Sumit Gupta There are only a few Indian restaurants in the whole city Ul. Vosstaniya 20, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 944 the second floor.QD-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 108, MSen- took the courage to open his own Curry House in the and this one offers more than just curry - for Indian style 03 36, www.italy-group.ru. Open 12:00 - 02:00. €€. naya pl., tel. (+7) 812 702 62 63, www.dickensrest.ru. Open Northern Capital, which we think was a great idea! Curry fine-dining, this is a great place to go. The menu is original PASW 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. PASW House is a perfect addition to the cities food scene serv- and mouth-watering, especially the clay-oven Tandoori- ing food from all compass points off India. The menu is specialities. When cooked here, the meat acquires a deli- Next to Mariinsky theatre extensive and we really enjoyed the big variety we or- cious flavour and specific tenderness. The soft naan breads Show this ad dered: Samosa, Murg Tikka Muglai, Palak Paneer, Punjabi are also highly recommended - especially the peshwari and get Chole (marinated chick peas) served with plain rice and naan. From now on you can also try a truly authentic Indi- a discount10 % off course butter naan. Like any Indian restaurant Curry an beer Kingfisher, Indian Rum and 18 types of tea. There’s House offers a wide choice of vegetarian dishes.QC-3, Ul. plenty of options for vegetarians too and every guest with Glinki 3-5-7, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 921 416 94 47, www. an In Your Pocket guide gets a 10% discount on the bill. curryhousespb.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€. QD-3, Voznesensky pr. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 87 72, www.tandoorinightsspb.com. Open King Pong 12:00 - 23:30. €€. PALVSW The bright colours, funky paintings and high ceilings make for a cooly relaxed Asian alternative to all the sushi bars around town. The menu itself is mainly Thai-style dishes Beer Restaurants with scattered bits of Chinese, Indian and Japanese offer- Bierstube ings. In general, we recommend filling up on an assort- With their own brewery the Marriott’s Bierstube restaurant ment of the yummy starters, particularly the dim sum or is a good place to start if you are looking for some home- one of their big brothy noodle soups. The mains are el- brewed hoppy stuff. Choose from a seat in the bright glass Delicious italian egantly prepared with fresh ingredients and a little ‘Euro- covered courtyard balcony or tuck yourselves in inside the and russian food! pean’ in spice levels, but you can always ask for some chili wood and stucco countryside house themed centre of the sauce to add yourself.QD-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 16, MAd- restaurant. Either way be sure to load up on beer snacks Amazing Pastry! miralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 82 56, www.kingpong. like calmari and fried cheese sticks before the main events, ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €. PTAEGSW Bavarian and Czech cuisine inspired meaty heavyweights, arrive. The fact that it is a good walk down the canal from Meat Line the metro station means you have the chance to walk of all St. Petersburg, pr. Rimskogo-Korsakova 43, Don’t be put off by the bad name or terrible shopping mall the calories after.QC-4, Courtyard by Marriott St. Peters- Next to location. Meat Line is the first and only Teppanyaki restau- burg Center West Pushkin Hotel, Nab. kan. Griboedova www.romeosbarandkitchen.ru rant in St. Petersburg. It’s so different from anything else on 166 (entrance via Kanonerskaya ul. 33), MSennaya Pl., reservations: Mariinsky theatre offer in town, it’s worth the challenge to find deep within tel. (+7) 812 610 50 00, www.bier-stube.ru. Open 12:00 - +7 (812) 572 54 48 the shopping complex. Not speaking English or Russian, the 01:00. €€. PTAULSW 30 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket October - November 2014 31 Where to eat Where to eat Gastronomic Pub Brugge The founders of this pub were inspired by the idea that the Cafes and Coffee houses Caucasian Belgians appreciate beer as much as the French admire their Bonch Cafe Baklazhan wine, so they tried to collect the best types of the most popu- The unique 1930s factory designed interior of the new The open kitchen concept combined with beige rusticism lar beverages and, as tradition dictates, they serve each kind of Cafe Bonch adds another edge to the ever evolving col- seems to be mode du jour for Ginza Project. The twist at beer in a different glass! You can choose from almost 50 types lection of alternative cafes in the city. Chef-barista Irina Baklazhan (Aubergine) are the touches of deep purple to of traditional Belgian beer. Belgian meals, which combine the Sharipova has chosen ‘welena’ coffee beans, enriched in the decor, wine bottles lining the walls and a market stall simplicity of traditional burger cooking with the delicacy of the Ethipian sun to provide a sweet and fruity taste and, of sorts selling fruits and nuts near the entrance. The food French cuisine, are made according to the best recipes chosen alongside excitingly twisted essentials, the menu offers itself is standard Georgian fare with a few more innovative in Brussels or Antwerp. QC-2, Nab. Makarova 22, MVasil- all types of home prepared sandwiches and a constantly dishes. Stick with baked goods, such as their stuffed sam- eostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 600 23 90, www.inbrugge.ru. revolving selection of interesting soups.QE-3, Bol. Mor- sas, khachapuri and the like and you’ll be treated to pip- Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTALESW skaya ul. 16, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 931 356 34 ing hot goodness that’ll stick to your bones.QE-3, Galeria 01, www.coffeebonch.ru. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun Shopping Centre, Ligovsky pr. 30, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. 11:00 - 23:00. €. PTAGSW +7 (812) 677 73 72, www.baklazhan.net. Open 10:00 until last guest. €. PTALVESW Cafe Singer In its place you will find a large café serving decent coffee and Khinkalnaya na Neve cakes as well as classic Russian and European dishes like borsch Situated only a few minutes from Gostiny Dvor, this res- and pelmeni. The staff all speak English very well. In the morn- taurant offers good Georgian food for a reasonable price. ing they serve a good breakfast. Note the daily specials - ev- Although some dishes might not be as spicy as they are ery day they cook something new with seasonal ingredients. in Georgia, the flavourful Georgian wine and the nice Combine that with a great view and stunning art nouveau and quiet living-room atmosphere makes this restaurant fittings and you can understand why it always seems to be so a good option to spend your evening. On the menu are full.QD-3, Nevsky pr. 28 (Dom Knigi 1st floor), MNevsky all the traditional Georgian dishes such as different sorts Manneken Pis pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 82 23, www.singercafe.ru. Open 09:00 of khinkali (dough filled with meat), pkhali (chopped and Manneken Pis is named after the famous 61 cm. statue in Brus- - 23:00. €€. PTAGSW minced vegetables with walnuts and herbs), and tasty sels. Manneken Pis means “Little Man Pees” in Marol (Dutch shashlik!QE-3, Sadovaya ul. 13-15, MNevsky pr., tel. 8, Admiralteysky Pr., dialect spoken in Brussels). This bar looks like your standard Green Room (+7) 812 315 08 99, www.hinkaly.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, European bar, but just wait till you see the beer menu. This This large loft room in the middle of the hip Etagi art cen- Fri, Sat 12:00 until last guest. PAESW +7 (812) 945 84 72 bar has a wide range Belgium and Dutch beers with 12 types tre makes a good place for a post-exhibit cup of tea or of beer on tap and over 150 types of bottled beer, including glass of beer, depending on the time of day. The food on Khochu Kharcho Trappist and boutique beers.QMoskovsky pr. 198, MPark offer is basic fare aimed at students such as chicken soups “Khochu Kharcho!” means “I want Kharcho”! - kharcho be- Pobedy, tel. (+7) 812 371 90 31, www.beercard.ru. Open and dumplings and the tables are generally always filled ing a traditional Georgian stew containing mutton/lamb, 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PAGW with artistic types pouring their last roubles into a bowl vegetables, rice and a highly spiced bouillon. Here they of porridge.QE-3, Loft project ETAGI (3rd floor), Ligov- serve three different types of the dish and it is definitely O’Hooligans sky pr. 74, MLigovsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 458 80 03, www. worth trying as a warm and filling main course. This is Adjacent to the higher-class British variant, this Irish pub loftprojectetagi.ru. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - not just a Georgian restaurant, it`s a Megrelian restaurant has a little more cheek to its business model. There are until last guest. €. TGSW and there is a big difference. Megrelia is a historic prov- bawdy limericks painted on the low, curved ceiling and ince in the western part of Georgia where walnuts feature half of the menu is done in cartoons. Their flip guide to the Mitte cafe prominently in the cooking and they like their food spicy. massive selection of beers on tap comes in handy if you’re The windows, the sills of which also serve as seats, are flung Other must-try-dishes include the rich and cheesy Megre- wanting to try something new but already have a set idea wide open and the smell of coffee wafts out into the street. lian khachapuri or the fragrant chakhokhbili (spicy chicken on what you’re in the mood for. Also at ul. Bakunina 5 The décor simple yet effective; it’s the people who make this stew).QD-3, Sadovaya ul. 39/41, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) (metro Pl. Vosstaniya).QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 14, place. They have a small but excellent collection of cakes, 812 310 32 36, www.hochuharcho.com. Open 24hrs. €€. MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 643 10 40, www.ohooligans. and the staff are friendly and helpful. Come back in the PTALVESW ru. Open 12:00 until the last guest. PAESW evening for a glass of wine and antipasti and a relaxed but buzzing atmosphere.QE-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 27, MDosto- Pryanosti i radosti Trappist evskaya, tel. (+7) 812 416 14 16. Open 10:00 - until last Just down the road from Gorkovskaya metro station on Belgian pub that prides itself in good beer, good food and guest, Fri, Sat 12:00 until last guest. €. TAGSW the Petrograd Side, this is an extremely popular restaurant good service. Trappists are an order of Catholic monks who from the Ginza Project. On entering, you might even say live by strict rules, but brew fantastic beer in their monasteries Starbucks too popular, the tables are spaced close to each other and in Belgium and Holland. With an entire book filled with beer Most people know Starbucks as a place designed to be it quiet conversation looks like it will be impossible, but options ranging from affordable to over 2,000Rbl, Trappist is cosy, with sofas, coffee tables and stools. You can relax, somehow it works. You feel like you in are in a busy, fun definitely a beer place. However, don’t expect to find any Bal- read a book, or meet with friends. On offer is a selection of and thriving atmosphere. The menu includes European tika or cheap Russian beers here, as they have imported more coffees and other drinks, which you can personalise, for ex- delicacies, Russian favourites and of course traditional than 100 beers from Belgium and Holland for your enjoyment. ample with different flavours of syrups. Also at Nevsky pr. Caucasian meals thrown in to spice things up. Also at Mos- QЕ-2, Ul. Radishcheva 36, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 25 and Nevsky pr. 114-116.QE-3, Nevsky pr. 55, MMaya- kovsky pr. 191 (metro Moskovskaya).QD-1, Mal. Posadska- 812 275 99 35, www.cafetrappist.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, kovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 385 11 96, www.starbuckscoffee. ya ul. 3, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 333 46 33, www. Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PTAEGSW ru. Open 07:30 - 23:00. € €. PAGSW ginzaproject.ru. Open 24hrs. €€. PTAVSW 32 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket October - November 2014 33 Features Features

47 tried itself in a different role, this time as the “Premier” sets - accompanied by an exquisite wine selection - that casino, soon gaining fame among those who were espe- take guests to other parts of the country or even some- cially fond of exceptional and luxurious entertainment. The where abroad to indulge in specialties from those places. decor of “Premier” captivated with its elite, chamber finish, The restaurant’s wine list counts over 120 vintages, mainly to match the respectable club atmosphere and a top level from France, Italy, Chile and further afar. The rare wines kept of service. in stock include the 1982 Chateau-Margaux Premier Grand But in the end, it was decided that reviving the Palkin res- Cru Classe and the 1988 Chateau Petrus Pomerol Grand Vin. taurant would be the best course to take. The road was Those who like their alcohol a bit stronger can choose from long and windy: to return Palkin to its former use as a res- 30 brands of cognac, brandy, and calvados, more than 40 taurant the owners brought in a team of specialists from sorts of vodka, whiskey and gin, all of which can be nicely the State Hermitage Museum to supervise the restoration complemented with a cigar from Palkin’s wide selection. work of the building’s original interiors. After the restoration of the original interiors was complete, a particular style was introduced for each of the restaurant’s halls - the fireplace hall, the chess hall, and the large hall, as well as for the bar and the red foyer. These interiors are now regularly used for shooting historical programmes and films. The renovated Palkin restaurant was reopened in 2002 and has revived the traditions of 19th century hospitality. These traditions include a cuisine which would have been familiar to the Russian aristocracy at the time and here you can savour dishes that once delighted top society in the Palkin restaurant In 1904, an extension was added and the concert hall imperial capital. The menu is abundant with meat, fish and St. Petersburg is a city that embodies history. As the capital renovated with the help of the famous Russian architect vegetable dishes which means people of all gastronomi- of the Russian tsars, St. Petersburg has been the home of A.S. Khrenov. The restaurant’s visitors were treated to per- cal persuasions will find something to their liking. The joy leading political figures, writers, reformers, tyrants and ter- formances by famous musicians and singers, and the con- and pride is the sturgeon baked in white wine sauce served The Palkin has renovated the concert hall and now repli- rorists and sometimes individuals that fit all these catego- cepts of an ‘after theatre meal’ and also the ‘Sunday lunch with mushrooms, capers and a crawfish sauce. Other nota- cates 19th century dinners and also holds receptions for ries. Nevsky prospekt and the city centre have witnessed with music’ were also introduced. ble and absolutely heavenly dishes are rabbit stuffed with exhibitions, festivals and play premiers. The restaurant also much that is grand and tragic in Russia’s history. After a truffles served with a mushroom soufflé, tschi soup of the runs so called soirees, “Nights with the Stars: Dinner by day of visiting museums, art galleries and wandering the Tsarist era stewed with smoked pork and white mushrooms Candlelight” which have included some leading Russian beautiful streets – the Palkin restaurant is a good location and, of course, the forest guineafowl with veal kidneys and performers. In the evenings live jazz, gypsy music and tra- to enjoy a meal and continue experiencing St. Petersburg’s a side of potato and carrot purée. ditional Russian romances can be heard infusing the ambi- dramatic history. The restaurant’s menu alters with the seasons, while special ance. The Hallway of Arts, an exhibit space for popular St. One of the oldest dining establishments in St. Petersburg and meals such as the “Royal Lunch”, Christmas and New Year Petersburg painters, opens at the restaurant every month. one of the few that has retained its original name and loca- dinners are available for only a few days, being especially The Palkin offers panoramic views of Nevsky Prospekt and tion, the restaurant bears the name of the original restaura- popular with the restaurant’s regulars. The ever in-demand gives the visitor a chance to re-experience the best of Rus- teurs, the Palkin family, first mentioned in 1785. Initially, the sterlet (sturgeon) and lamb on the bone remain on the sian history and culture, making it an unmissable part of a popularity of the family’s taverns, and then later the Palkin menu throughout the year. Palkin’s signature ice cream stay in St. Petersburg for Russian and foreign guests. restaurant chain was extraordinary. The most fashionable has become something of a legend and desserts from the Palkin was situated on the corner of the Nevsky and Vladimir- confectioner’s studio and handmade chocolates have also QE-3, Nevsky pr. 47, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 703 sky prospekts, 47. The building was purchased by Konstantin proved to be much-loved menu additions. The restaurant 53 71, www.palkin.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€€. Palkin in 1871, after he inherited the business of his father, also often organizes evenings with special gastronomical PTAEW Pavel Palkin. The original building had to be reconfigured to serve as a restaurant but after renovations were completed The restaurant’s status made it popular among St. Peters- the new restaurant was opened in 1874 with 25 dining halls, burg’s socialites and intellectuals. Visitors to the restaurant a billiard room, private cabinets, and a majestic staircase that included the poet Alexander Blok, scientist Alexander was adorned with exotic plants and a sparkling fountain. Butlerov, writers Nikolai Gogol, Fedor Dostoevsky, Nikolai Leskov, Anton Chekhov, painter Mikhail Saltykov-Shche- drin, and composer Petr Tchaikovsky. The restaurant was among the first in Russia to adopt elements of French cuisine into traditional Russian cooking. Visitors were also attracted by the atmosphere, which was similar to a pri- vate club. Following the Bolshevik revolution, the restaurant was converted into the Titan movie theatre and enjoyed similar success. In 1934, it hosted the premiere of Chapaev, an epic film about the civil war. The movie theatre also held inter- national film festivals and became a favourite of Leningrad’s bohemian circles. In 1995, Nevsky Prospekt, house number 34 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket October - November 2014 35 Where to eat Where to eat visitors the opportunity to watch these magnificent birds L’Europe throughout the year. Il Lago dei Cigni is the ideal location for Fine dining Eating in this historic restaurant, the sparkling diamond in a quiet getaway from the stress and bustle of the city.QA-1, Grand Cru the sumptuous Grand Hotel Europe’s crown, is an experi- Severnaya doroga 21, MKrestovsky ostrov, tel. (+7) 812 Grand Cru brings molecular cuisine and top vintage wines ence to be savoured. The service is in a class of its own, 602 07 07, www.illago.ru. €€€. PTAESW to the banks of the Fontanka canal. The sleek look of the the interiors are stunning, especially the original art deco restaurant is as sophisticated and minimalist as you can stained glass windows and ceiling, and all the dishes are Kroo Cafe imagine and the display of wines on sale (and the equally at- made with the absolute finest ingredients available. Of the It’s always nice to see new places appear in interest- tractive staff selling them) take centre stage. The menu is an luxurious Russian dishes on offer the ‘egg in an egg’ (a kind ing central neighbourhoods not frequently visited by exciting adventure for the taste buds with all kinds of exotic of posh scrambled quails egg with black sturgeon caviar foreigners. In the proximity of the beautiful Tavrichesky flavours and unusual spices being combined together with on top) is an expensive one of a kind treat. Sunday brunch Park Kroo Cafe serves breakfasts from 8:30 and keeps top notch fish and meat, to give the diner something mem- is also magnifique!QD-3, Belmond Grand Hotel Europe, European on going into the night. The well balanced menu is cre- orable and out of the ordinary.QE-3, Nab. reky Fontanky Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 Fartuk ated by their French chef who is keen on buying his own 52, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 363 25 11, www.grandcru. 66 30, www.europe-restaurant.net. Open 07:00 - 23:00. Combining the cosy with the modern, the centrally lo- products at the market, which only ads to the feeling that ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. PASW €€€€. PTALEW cated cafe-bar Fartuk (rus. Apron) is one of those charm- what you get is fresh. Topped off by friendly and smiling ing family-run places that make you want to return again waitresses Kroo Cafe won’t disappoint.QF-3, Suvorovsky Le Boat Palkin and again. A communal country-kitchen style table and pr. 27, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 906 273 11 11, www. Le Boat is a spacious and airy restaurant with lovely light- Palkin is as historic as they come, dating all the way back gorgeous Provencal floor tiles dominate the centre of kroocafe.com. Open 08:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:30 - 01:00. ing and attentive staff. Located a short walk from Alexan- to 1874. Although restoration did take place, the interior the room and set the friendly and relaxed tone which is PTASW der Nevsky Monastery, past a series of some of the ugliest is as sophisticated and tasteful as in imperial times, which shared by the welcoming and attentive young waitstaff. examples of Soviet Realism, Le Boat is convenient for the all adds to the feeling that you are being treated to a meal The menu is a mix of European influences with a focus Mon Petit Café sightseer and the long term expatriate who wants to enjoy in some rich aristocrat’s home. The menu is bursting with on Mediterranean tastes and the odd sprinkling of Asian While the décor is similar to a lot of other modern cafés a fine dining experience away from the bustle of the cen- luxurious foie gras, angus beef, truffles, black caviar and spices.QE-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 15/17, MDostoevskaya, in town, its understated colors, comfortable chairs and tral city. While the restaurant does not offer lovely views, a game moulded into historic French/Russian recipes from tel. (+7) 812 764 52 56. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 impressionist artworks on the wall help give off a mildly glass wall gives you a good view of the kitchen which can a bygone era. They also have a seasonally changing five- - 03:00. €. PTAGSW Parisian vibe. However, unlike other cafés, the menu is be an enthralling process. The restaurant’s main attrac- course special menu with specially selected wines, themed refreshingly brief with highlights including excellent pa- tions are the lovely environment, good service, and a fine around a different wine-growing area of the world. Booking Grey’s coffeebar & bistro tés as starters, full-bodied red wine and delicious crème dining experience at affordable rates.QF-3, Sinopskaya is recommended. Read more on pages 34-35.QE-3, Nevsky While it may offer a cheap café menu, Grey’s Bistro deliv- brûlée for dessert. The basic menu also helps keep things nab. 22, MPl. Alexandra Nevskogo, tel. (+7) 812 640 26 pr. 47, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 703 53 71, www.palkin. ers it with style with its chic interior and tasty meals. The uncomplicated in the kitchen, allowing the cooks to just 40, www.leboat-restaurant.ru. €€€. PTAEW ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€€. PTAEW light menu offers a few salads, snacks and grilled items, focus on quality ingredients and in the end deliver tasty all priced low enough, allowing you to order a variety of and satisfying meals, which are also value for money.QF- options to share. The café has also earned a reputation for 3, 2-ya Sovetskaya ul. 27, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 its delicious cakes and coffee.QF-3, Konnaya ul. 5/3 (en- 372 65 78. Open 11:00 - 23:00. €. PASW trance from Telezhny per.), MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 925 42 50, www.greys-bistro.ru. Open 09:30 - 23:30, Soup Wine Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:30. €. PSW Five tables with bar stools are all you will find in this sleek and agreeable diner. The menu is as small as the place Gypsy tapas bar itself, boasting a simple yet tasty choice of soups and Decorated with more Middle Eastern flavor than Spanish, salads but also a selection of fresh juices, pasta and wine the welcome is just as exotic and warm as you enter Gypsy and huge salads which come in bowls heaving with green Tapas Bar. Enjoy fruity cocktails such as “I Want a Summer leaves. Given the size and how easy it is to sit and linger Gypsy!” and “Quiet Sangria”, while sampling freshly-made listening to the operatic soundtrack, it is definitely advised tapas from a small yet interesting menu. As well as tapas, to book ahead.QD-3, Kazanskaya ul. 24, MNevsky pr., the menu also offers a limited selection of mains and tel. (+7) 812 312 76 90, www.supvino.ru. Open 12:00 - soups.QE-2, Liteiny pr. 14/1, MChernyshevskaya, tel. 23:00. €. PAGSW (+7) 812 993 77 57, www.gypsybar.ru. Open 12:00 until last guest. €€. PAESW Sunduk Sunduk is a restaurant with a style of its own. Tightly Il Lago dei Cigni packed into two small chambers, the restaurant is crowd- Il Lago dei Cigni (Swan Lake) is an Italian restaurant under ed with memorabilia of the weird, the wacky and the won- the patronage of the famous gourmet chef Remo Mazzuca- derful. The bizarre collection creates a quirky and lively to. The luxurious interiors were designed by Hirsch Bedner atmosphere. Live music aids digestion while this smoothly Associates and the sense of luxury is supported by a unique running restaurant is overseen by the resident cat who en- wine list, live music and Mediterranean hospitality. Close sures everything is in order. This quaint restaurant offers to the central city, the restaurant is located on Krestovsky a great atmosphere and stands out as being something Island in the middle of the Neva River delta giving guests a different on the St. Petersburg scene.QE-2, Furshtatska- beautiful view which is particularly attractive as the sun sets ya ul. 42, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 272 31 00, over the Finnish Gulf. The restaurant itself sits on the very www.cafesunduk.ru. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 edge of Swan Lake (also known as Northern Lake), giving - 24:00. €€. PASW 36 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket October - November 2014 37 Where to eat Where to eat The Flying Dutchman Brixton At just about the widest point of the Neva, the Letuchy International Like many venues in the restaurant’s up and coming hip Gollandets, or Flying Dutchman, affords panoramic views Biblioteka hot spot namesake in London, this newly opened restau- of the stunning uninterrupted architecture along the river’s This culinary and cultural project takes up three storeys in rant is sure to fast become a regular for stylish crowds. banks, with the glorious Winter Palace right opposite. The the old Dutch Church on Nevsky prospect. The ground floor Channeling the London vibe from SW2, the restaurant’s Flying Dutchman complex includes three different restau- is a café-delicatessen with tasty American and Dutch pies, bare brick walls, minimalist design and monochrome rants. Our favourite is the restaurant Terrasa. All cream, dark homemade burgers, fresh salads and coffee. A restaurant decor add a sharp edge to a comfortable environment wood and clean lines, this place is every bit the classy berth with a great view of Nevsky pr. is located on the first floor, for a quick working lunch or a few drinks later on. The you would expect, where the sharp modern interior doesn’t along with a flower shop, a china shop, book shop and menu offers enough variation for all tastes and require- completely detract from the vessel’s heritage. Fresh fish candle shop. The ViVi children’s club is also located here. ments, where quality dishes also provide enough quan- True Indian cooking is predictably a wise choice in such a venue and certainly The second floor has a relaxed atmosphere and comprises tity to keep you going for a while afterwards, though the doesn’t disappoint and a wine list nonchalantly flows over a wine and tapas-bar. It is used for literary events, meet- choice between a lush glass of wine or a cold light Belgian and hospitality several pages.QC-2, Mytninskaya nab. 6, MSportivnaya, ings with writers and book presentations. A bookshop is beer might be a tough one.QE-3, Ul. Zhukovskogo 33, tel. (+7) 812 313 88 66, www.dutchman.ru. Open 10:00 also located here.QD-3, Nevsky pr. 20, MNevsky pr., tel. MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 930 89 87. Open 12:00 - since 1994 until last guest. €€€. PTALEGSW (+7) 812 244 15 94, www.facebook.com/ilovenevsky. 01:00. €€. PAGSW Open 08:00 - 01:00. €€. PTAESW 20 Wine Cellar 1853 Buddha-Bar years Few restaurants are as small and cosy as this one. Located Bolshaya Kukhnya There are branches of the glamorous Buddha-Bar brand inside the Kempinski Moika 22 Hotel, you escape into the A huge panorama restaurant just a stone’s throw away from in numerous cities around the world such as Paris, Lon- world of fine dining, exclusive wines and delicious fondue. Moskovsky train station. The name is very appropriate be- don, Monte Carlo and Dubai all of which are frequented This cellar accommodates up to 16 people but you are never cause the restaurant can fit up to 400 people at once, mak- by the A-list celebrity crowd. The Buddha-Bar restaurant alone since you are accompanied by 200 different bottles of ing it a great place for groups of friends and families to enjoy brings the finest elements of the lounge-restaurant brand wine and 50 bottles of champagne. On the menu you can a very wide menu of more than 150 dishes from around the to Russia with a wide-ranging menu of fancy pan-Asian choose among others between four different fondues. Next world. Among them head chef Vladimir Stebunov presents cuisine with French accents, an inimitable lounge music to the classical cheese fondue is a bourgogne meat fondue pastas and pizzas, burgers, homemade desserts and plat- soundtrack and ultra-chic surroundings. Flashy, classy and and a chocolate fondue (as an entrée, main and dessert ters for two or more. The little ones have their very own a little bit exotic, Buddha-Bar proves popular with the perhaps), you can also go for the champagne and perigord menu in their very own restaurant.QE-3, Galeria Shopping cocktails crowd and fans of pan-Asian cuisine.QF-3, Sin- 10 Admiralteisky Pr., +7 812 312 3886 truffle and cheese fondue. QAdmiralteiskaya, Nab. Reky Centre, Ligovsky pr. 30A, MVosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 984 opskaya nab. 78, MPl. Aleksandra Nevskogo, tel. (+7) www.tandoor-spb.ru Moiky 22, MD-2, tel. (+7) 812 335 9111, www.kempinski. 04 84, www.big-kitchen.com. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 812 318 07 07, www.buddha-bar.ru. Open 12:00 - 02:00, com. Open Tue - Sat 18:00 - 22:00. €€€€. PAUW 10:00 - 02:00. €€. PTAULEGSW Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. €€€€. PALESW Moskva City Five Points Gastrobar Rooftop restaurants are the place to be in this city during Five Points is another welcome addition in this neighbor- the summer. Moskva City offers an unusual and fantastic hood full of restaurants. The attractive French-inspired view of St. Petersburg, with the broad Neva River glimmer- interior and the discrete background music are a perfect ing in the sun. The good thing is, the food is not forgotten setting for long conversations. The menu is not extensive and is all tasty, served by friendly waiters and attractively but all the dishes are delicious and made of fresh ingredi- presented. Prices are reasonable too. The terrace offers ents. The reasonable prices make it possible to try several excellent space for lounging and partying. When the things from the menu which includes fresh salads, pastas, weather does not allow you to sit outside, they have lots fish, meat, and even tortillas. They have a great selection of of space in their well designed restaurant the next storey drinks from European beers to Russian wine.QE-3, Ul. Lo- down.QD-1, Petrogradskaya nab. 18A, MGorkovskaya, monosova 18, MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 600 23 26. tel. (+7) 812 925 59 59, www.moskvacity.spb.ru. Open Open 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sun 11:00 - until the las guest. €. 12:00 until last guest. €€€. PAESW PTAEGSW Myzhenaty Long Island Diner & Bar Another of ulitsa Rubinshteina hip hideaways, the cafe Long Island is located in a timewarp just off Nevsky pros- Myzhenaty’s translation ‘we are married’ perhaps refers pect. This place feels like a Hollywood remake of a 1950s to the classic marriage of book and cafe. Here, jumbles of milk bar with all the Americana you could wish for: from tables and chairs peek through the maze of bookshelves, models of crime-fighting superheroes to Californian li- where the literature itself constitutes most of the minimal- cence plates, and pictures from 1950s classic films to Elvis ist decor. An admittedly small menu offers essential cof- Presley. The bar plays a constant soundtrack of solid 1950s fees or juices, to accompany a delicious salad or sandwich. rock. The menu is all American too, burgers, beef and The venue gets a thumbs up for not striving too hard for French fries with a mind boggling array of milkshakes to flashiness, relying simply on a classic but contemporary help you shake, rattle and roll. If you want something a bit library like setting in which to congregate with friends for stronger, they have a wide range of alcoholic cocktails and a chat or simply pull something off the shelf and settle beverages.QD-3, Nab. kan. Griboedova 8/1, MNevsky down to read.QE-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 11, MDostoevs- pr., tel. (+7) 812 924 36 97, www.longislanddiner.ru. kaya, tel. (+7) 812 456 44 74. Open 12:00 - 11:00, Fri, Sat Open 24hrs. €. PTAGSW 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PAGSW 38 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket October - November 2014 39 Where to eat Where to eat Ribai The Kitchen A good juicy steak in St. Petersburg is something of a Styled to look like a fancy kitchen, The Kitchen offers a Italian delicacy, thus specialty restaurants are relatively rare little bit of everything: stir-fry, sushi, pasta, meat and Caffe Italia and expectedly pricy. The appropriately named Ribai is a long list of desserts. Fittingly, the main focus of The The cheerful and charming décor, with checked table- a very welcome addition to the otherwise dreary scene: Kitchen is the kitchen! Everything is made from the finest cloths, sunny yellow walls and Uffizi catalogues on the given the nature of the cuisine it offers tremendous beef ingredients and even the most basic dishes are given a bookshelves, already puts this café above the standard selections at competitive rates. However, should you opt little culinary twist. It’s pricey, but the food is tasty and casual Italian bistro. On offer is a diverse range of authentic for something other than steak there’s another pleasant the service friendly, so if you are willing to travel a little pasta dishes, pizzas, starters and paninis. The mozzarella surprise in store. Following the glorious traditions of an bit away from the hustle and bustle of the center you stretches about a kilometer and the imported olive oil is American eatery the portions are mammoth and their definitely won’t be disappointed.QB-3, Moskovsky pr. positively succulent. If you can restrain yourself, the gor- delicious entrees (other than seafood) are priced below 73, MFrunzenskaya, tel. (+7) 812 952 85 85, www. geously presented desserts are worth the effort and the what’s expected from a joint that looks as classy as Ribai thekitchen.ru. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. wine list is a spot-on selection of almost exclusively dry does.QD-3, Kazanskaya ul. 3, MNevsky pr., tel. +7 (812) €€. PTALSW Italian vintages that won’t break the bank.QF-3, Pr. Ba- 912 96 21, www.ribai.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat kunina 5, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 905 64 74, www. 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PTAVESW Yelagin caffe-italia.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €. PNSW A glamorous clientele is to be found at this chic, wooden Romeo’s Bar and Kitchen panelled restaurant on the water, with a view across the St. Grato Trattoria Near the Mariinsky Theater and a number of new hotels, Petersburg Riviera. Become part of a stylish crowd reclin- If you are looking for a restaurant which differs from the Romeo’s offers some of the highest quality and reasonably ing on sofas downstairs or in the fresh air out on deck, and restaurants in the centre, Grato Trattoria is the place to go. priced Italian food in the city. The décor and atmosphere you might think you’re floating in the harbour of St. Tro- Here you can taste authentic Italian food or try something are relaxed, inviting guests to linger long and spend cozy pez. The menu boasts an Italian, Russian and Japanese se- a little more unusual. Located on Moskovsky prospekt evenings with their guests. A nice place to bring a date or lection of meticulously cooked dishes presented by suave with its Stalinist architecture, this is a very comfortable have a family celebration (a children’s menu is available). waiting staff, and an on board bar offers a large collection restaurant where you can feel at home and away with the Being a proper Italian restaurant, there is a wide assort- of mostly Italian wines as well as various cocktails. For not pleasures of Italy.QMoskovsky pr. 171, MPark Pobedy, ment of fish and to mix it up a bit there is also a wide se- too extortionate fine dining in a beautiful setting, this will tel. (+7) 812 388 34 23, www.grato-trattoria.ru. Open lection of Caucasian and Russian starters and mains.QC-3, be one of your best bets in St. Petersburg.QB-1, Nab. Mar- 10:00 until last guest (kitchen open 10:00 - 22:45). €€. Pr. Rimskogo-Korsakova 43, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 tynova, opposite the house №40, MKrestovsky ostrov, PTAGSW 572 54 48, www.romeosbarandkitchen.ru. Open 09:00 tel. (+7) 812 947 15 44, www.elaginrest.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTALSW - 24:00. €€€. PASW Gusto A classy and hip little place where local businessmen and gastrophiles come regularly to feast on excellent Italian Jamie’s Italian food and good wines. In fact, many of the patrons seem There are restaurants which carry this name in more than to just sit down and are immediately served their favou- 30 cities around the world. Admirers of the legendary chef rite bottle, followed by a selection of dishes from the chef Jamie Oliver should remain satisfied: the menu offers tra- without a word being spoken to the waiters. It’s that kind ditional Italian dishes using recipes made by Jamie and of attention, atmosphere and food. The menu looks basic his mentor Gennaro Сontaldo. The pasta is made from but all the dishes are complex mouth-watering master- Italian flour and farm eggs, and is prepared right before pieces which benefit from a light hand and subtle tastes. your eyes, and the rustic bread is made according to origi- Be sure to order the bread basket, a selection of freshly nal recipes, and is baked in special ovens. The wine list baked, in-house rolls and loaves that are perfect for mop- is mainly Italian wines, and almost any wine is available ping up every last drop of sauce. Be sure to save some by the glass. Lovers of the Italian festive atmosphere are space for one of the homemade desserts if possible.QF-3, exactly the type of people this place has in mind.QD-2, Degtyarnaya ul. 1a, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 941 Konyushennaya pl. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 600 25 17 44, www.gusto-spb.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 70, www.jamieoliver.com/italian/russia/st-petersburg. 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PTALESW Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTALSW

ITALY Bottega Makaronniki This restaurant is like an Italian grocery - small and very Located on the Petrograd side close to the Petrogradsky cozy. All the guests are seated at a large table, as is com- sports stadium, this rooftop restaurant gets 11 out of 10 for mon in Europe. The menu features traditional Italian style points with their terrace, complete with hammocks, homemade pasta, delicious pizza and some kinds of ri- bright blue wooden gazebos, chaise lounges and even a sotto. Exactly the same menu is represented in Italy West sandbox for the kids. Enjoy unusual views of Peter and Paul on Bolshoy pr. 48 and Italy South on Moskovsky pr. 159. Fortress, the spit of Vasilevsky Island and the State Hermit- But in Italy Bottega there is also a new section - antipasti age Museum in background - along with the domes of oth- on wooden boards from Chef Michael Sokolov and an er St. Petersburg landmarks. Makaronniki offers a Mediter- impressive wine list. After 23:00, wine can be ordered as ranean menu with world class wines, cocktails, homemade a takeaway.QD-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 14, MAdmiralteis- lemonade and Sangria.QC-2, Pr. Dobrolyubova 16, MS- kaya, tel. (+7) 812 966 19 56, www.italy-group.ru. Open portivnaya, tel. (+7) 812 677 60 88, www.makaronniki.ru. 09:00 - 02:00. €€. PTASW Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTALSW 40 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket October - November 2014 41 Where to eat Features Marcelli’s During the Soviet times several buildings on Bolshaya and REstaurants in hotels Marcelli’s is a chain of welcoming Italian restaurants with a konyushennaya area Malaya Konyushennaya changed the purpose of their exist- simple style reflecting the usual images of Italy (jars of condi- Ivan Sergeevich Turgenev ence because the Bolsheviks, of course, did not recognize So what’s the latest in hotel news this autumn? We’re ments and olives here, an Italian meat and cheese case there), – one of the classics of religion or the bourgeios lifestyle. And so the fashionable very glad you asked! Firstly, Courtyard by Marriott although it’s the tables full of noisy dinners that really make Russian literature. Nikolai restaurant Medved’ on Bolshaya Konyushennya 27 was St. Petersburg Center West Pushkin Hotel is very up the unpretentious atmosphere. The pared-down menu Andreevich Rimskiy- transformed into the Raikin Theater (which is there till this pleased to offer a brand new autumn menu at its Bier- tends towards pastas and risottos in marathon-runner-sized Korsakov – a great Rus- day) and right next door - house number 25 - where there stube restaurant. From October 21st until November portions. The dishes pop with garlic and the sauces are in- sian composer. Arkadiy was once the French Reformist church, the government es- 30th the menu will have traditional fall specialties that fused to bursting point with tomato, chili and basil - delicious. Aleksandrovich Rylov – an tablished a Soviet-style doughnut place called «Zhelyabova include pumpkin, lots of chestnuts and, of course, game. With an open kitchen, Marcelli’s offers diners yet another pos- esteemed Russian-Soviet 25». Until this day, locals believe this to be the best little cof- Next up, Belmond sibility to eat quality Italian food in the heart of the centre. Also artist and teacher. What do fee and pastry joint in town and maybe it has something to Grand Hotel Europe at Nevsky pr. 21 (metro Nevsky pr.), ul. Vosstaniya 15 (metro Pl. these distinguised people do with the fact that in the last 50 years the recipes and the is proud to present Rus- Vosstaniya), pr. Kosmonavtov 39/27 (metro Moskovskaya) and all have in common? At one point of their lives they all re- assortment haven’t changed at all. From 1709 and up until Q sia’s biggest selection of ul. Odoevskogo 34 (metro Vasileostrovskaya). D-3, Nevsky sided on a beautiful street in St. Petersburg that connects M fresh Malossol (slightly 43, Mayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 984 41 44, www. Nevsky Prospekt and Konyushennaya Square. PTAGSW salted) caviar so typical marcellis.ru. Open 24hrs. €. Bolshaya Konyushennaya street, which runs parallel to of this time of year in St River Moika, appeared on the map of St. Petersburg in the Petersburg’s only caviar Palermo 1730s at the order of Empress Anna Ionnavna. In Russian, restaurant, The Caviar Palermo is a cosy restaurant, a stone’s throw from Nevsky the name means the Big Stable street and this is no acci- Bar, with the pinnacle pr. and ul. Rubinshteina. The restaurant is decorated in dent: the street was created to connect Nevsky Prospekt of indulgence being an Italian style with frescoes giving you views of Italian to the Konyushennaya Square, where the Empress had her the rare Golden Caviar from the albino sterlet in Russia’s beeches below. The muted, pale blue lighting is reminis- regal stables. Far East. This unbelievably tender flavor is best savored cent of dusk. The soundtrack of classic movies plays softly At first this street became tightly lined with small wooden slowly with Russian vodka or a lá francais with exclusive in the background, putting you instantly into a relaxed houses that belonged to Europeans who relocated to St. champagne. Other delectable additions at the Caviar Bar frame of mind. In keeping with the Italian décor, Palermo Petersburg but these didn’t last very long as in 1739 an this autumn include unpasteurised beluga and Astrakhan offers a Mediterranean menu with healthy salads, plenty order came in to replace them with one- and two-storey 1918, house number 5 on Malaya Konyushennaya used to and Siberian oscietra, sevruga and sterlet caviars, as well of olives and lean, clean meat. Business lunch 12:00 - 16:00, concrete buildings. Many of the Europeans remained and be the German School - Sankt-Petri-Schule - and one of Q M as fresh red caviar from hunchback and Siberian salmon. 230Rbl. E-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 50, Dostoevskaya, therefore this area of St. Petersburg is where most of the the oldest educational institutions in Russia. Although in Also, pike caviar, which is making a comeback this season, tel. (+7) 812 764 37 64, www.palermo-spb.ru. Open non-Orthodox places of worhsip were constructed. The 1991 the building was given its old name back, it is famous PTAESW is another exciting enhancement to the menu. 12:00 - 24:00. €€. Finnish Church of Saint Mary was built between 1803 and among Russian rockers and music lovers for once being 1805 and the Germano-French Reformist Church three the residence of the one and only Boris Grebenschikov, The Renaissance St. Petersburg Baltic Hotel to- Percorso decades earlier. the leader of the legendary group Akvarium. It is a place of gether with the new head chef Anton Turchin has been Italian to the core, this restaurant combines a magnificent pilgrimage for fans of the group and the walls are covered hard at work all summer preparing a whole new gas- interior with great food. You want to see the chef prepar- with band’s lyircs. tronomic concept…and it’s finally here! At the heart of ing the food, or rather sit near the fire, perhaps you prefer Nowadays, this area is a great place for a nice walk, soaking in this new menu are local St. Peterburgian flavors, so it a view on St. Isaac’s square and cathedral? It’s all possible history and culture and hanging out with friends. The beauti- goes without saying that most of the ingredients are here at Percorso, decorated with beautiful chandeliers, art ful Spaso-Konyushennaya Church is located on Konyushen- locally sourced and produced in the Leningrad region. and comfortable seats all in a warm setting. Staff is smiling naya Square; this is the church where Russia’s most famous That means an abundance of mushroom, berry and ap- and welcoming and happy to help you pick and choose poet Aleksandr Sergeevich Pushkin had his burial service in ple dishes. For example, one of the chef’s new signature the best it has to offer, which is a lot. Fresh seafood, deli- 1837. In 2010 Bolshaya Konyushennaya underwent a mass dishes is jam made out of pine needles from the region. cate meat, homemade pasta, cheeses and more. Combine reconstruction process and is now a pleasant leafy boulevard that with a nice glass of wine and you’ll have a great night with cafes, fountains, horse sculptures and benches. It’s also Tea ceremonies are about to get a whole lot sweeter at out (at least we did). Prices are more than reasonable for a great place to splurge on elite designer brands thanks to a Kempinski Hotel Moika 22. A new collection of deli- a restaurant of this kind.QD-3, Four Seasons Hotel Lion number of boutiques as well as the newly re-opened “DLT” cious French desserts, made by Christophe Laplaza, the Palace St. Petersburg, Voznesensky pr. 1, MAdmiral- department store, which stands for the “Leningrad House hotel’s executive chef, has added an exquisite charm to teiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 339 80 44, www.fourseasons. of Trade”. Malaya Konyushennaya became a car-free pedes- the hotel’s elegant Tea Room. Here, guests can now try com/stpetersburg/. €€€. PALW Soon after the Germano-French Church was established, a trian street in the 1990s and in 1997 a large bronze statue of numerous specialties that are bound to make any tea new street appeared on the map of St. Petersburg – Malaya Nikolai Gogol was erected in the middle of the street. drinking ceremony worthy of the Queen of England Testo Konyushennaya street, or Small Stable street. Like its older herself: French Cheesecake or Financier with Apricot Pizza and pasta are what they do here in this novelty little sibling, this street also got its name from being connected and Pistachio, Medovic a`la Kempinski Moika 22, clas- basement bar, named after the Russian word for dough. to Konyushennaya Square. sic Opera Cake, excellent Vanilla Tahiti Éclairs or Rasp- They make their own pasta, changing the menu daily and Life in this area of St. Petersburg was smoothly running its berry Mood Marmalade. A classic cup of coffee might serve up the pizza with tasty Italian style thin crusts and course throughout the 19th century. Buildings were being bring a joyful holiday mood if paired with any of the freshly grated parmesan. The grey and red interior and re- renovated and restructured, the foreign houses of worship macaroons from a wide assortment of different tastes - laxed atmosphere makes it perfect for lone diners, lunchers got new add-ons..but when the Bolsheviks came power honey, popcorn, pistachio lime, pina colada, blackberry, or anyone after a snack. Beers are available on tap as well these two streets discontinued to exist. In October 1918 coconut, raspberry, caramel and orange chocolate. as a choice of wines.QD-3, Grivtsova per. 5/29, MSado- Malaya Konyushennaya became Sofyi Perovskoi street and For contact information on hotels check page 55-57. vaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 64 20, www.testogastronomica. Bolshaya Konyushennaya was renamed after A. I. Zhely- ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €. PTASW abov, a notorious revolutionary and terrorist. 42 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket October - November 2014 43 Where to eat Nightlife Discover the world The nightlife in St. Petersburg is brilliant. You can eat, drink and dance around the clock. The city has dimly lit jazz halls, Tyomnoe – Dark of Buddha-Bar groovy strip-clubs and a vibrant underground music scene. Svetloe – Light (for beer) Buddha-Bar St Petersburg is a first Russian lounge-restaurant of Buddha-Bar global network widely known for the unique Cuba Libre format in megacities of all over the world (Paris, New York, Bars and Pubs The bar is adorned by Cuban flags, and from the remark- London, Monte Carlo, Prague, Beirut and other cities). Bud- Birzha Bar able jumble of spirits behind the bar, you would have to dha-Bar concept is based on a combination of pan-Asian Birzha Bar is located on Vasilevsky Island which was origi- choose at least something with rum in. More than suffi- gastronomy, own musical concepts and unique interior. nally intended to be St. Petersburg’s central city. The island cient seating make Cuba Libre a decent choice for a bite is today one of St. Petersburg’s most attractive areas, and to eat, where the classic burger and platters to share will History the Birzha Bar is located on the spit of the island in the old go down a treat, but it’s really the night when the place First Buddha-Bar lounge-restaurant opened its doors in St. Petersburg Stock Exchange. The bar aims to hold wild comes alive. The heaps of fresh fruit behind the bar prom- Paris in 1996. The founder and the mastermind of Buddha- dance nights on Friday and Saturday with live DJs and at- ise a refreshing cocktail, and indeed the menu is so long Bar brand is Raymond Visan. Now there are more than 25 tract Russian and foreign musicians to jazz up your night. you might not let yourself leave until you’ve sampled a Buddha-Bar restaurants, SPA and hotels all over the world. QC-2, Birzhevoy per. 4, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) good few.QE-3, Sadovaya ul. 7-9-11, MNevsky pr., tel. Regular Buddha-Bar customers are eminent guests and 812 925 88 06, www.birjabar.ru. Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, (+7) 812 983 55 26, www.barcubalibre.ru. Open 24hrs. show business stars, such as: David and Victoria Beckham, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. €. PAEW €€. PAESW Lady Gaga, Cameron Diaz, Johnny Depp, Jennifer Lopez, Puff Daddy, Sharon Stone, Madonna, Will Smith, Tim Burton, Bristol Pub Dead Poets John Galliano, Thierry Henry, Demi Moore, Bill Clinton, Naomi Bristol is a quiet, respectable pub; a thick rug on the floor, This is a European style whiskey bar for those who want a Campbell, Celine Dion, Sylvester Stallone and many others. leather-upholstered sofas and velvet armchairs - everything more relaxed atmosphere. Dead Poets markets itself at the here’s cosy and snug. Black-and-white photographs of the discerning connoisseur who would rather spend the eve- Interior 20s and 30s create the atmosphere of the England of the time. ning sipping whiskey or wine and playing chess or back- Unusual combination of comfort reflected in clever atmos- Bristol is just as suited to business lunch among colleagues gammon than running riot in a bar. The choice of whiskey phere of serenity, conceptual interaction of light and music as to a celebration in high-spirited company. Don’t expect is impressive and provided with a delicious range of snacks. will help you relax and catch a break from the city buzz. Tra- anything out of the ordinary from the cooking - everything’s The bar plays soft background music and has an art nou- ditional features of every restaurant of the global network are Chef Aaron Stott simply done, but very tasty.QE-3, Ul. Marata 36/38, MV- veau interior.QE-3, Ul. Zhukovskogo 12, MMayakovsk- ancient vases, dense streams of the amber light changing to ladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 713 24 42, www.molly.su. Open ogo, tel. (+7) 812 449 46 56, www.dpoets.ru. Open 11:00 twilight, mosaic, French gold fabrics, varnished wood, create dishes of the countries of Pacific region. Cooked only from 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. PASW - 01:00, Fri - Sun 11:00 - 03:00. €€. PAW a serenity atmosphere for each visitor. Key element is a statue the best ingredients, healthful, filled with fruit aroma, Bud- of Buddha which has been a main symbol of all restaurants dha-Bar dishes harmoniously combine classical recipes and of the global network for many years. Area of the restaurant bright culinary ideas. Buddha-Bar St Petersburg is 2500 sq.m. First floor is assigned for lounge area, there is one of the largest bars in St Peters- Music burg, lounge tables, and 5 private dinettes. The restaurant Buddha-Bar music is traditionally exotic and rare selection of area is on the second floor. There are also Wine Room and pieces specially created by musical residents of Buddha-Bar VIP-room which can accommodate up to 40 guests. global network. DJs easily mix Indian, Arabian, Spanish, Latin American, Peruvian, Greek, Tibetan rhythms, creating some Cuisine kind of sensations in the music world. Chef Aaron Stott has extensive experience of work in the best pan-Asian restaurants in London (Vong and Nozomi), Dubai QSinopskaya Naberezhnaya 78, tel. (+7) 812 318 07 07, (Okku), Moscow (Kinki). Buddha-Bar offers a wide variety of www.buddha-bar.ru

44 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket October - November 2014 45 Nightlife Nightlife Library Bar Terminal Bar Purga Only round the corner from St. Isaac’s, Library bar offers a Behind a long smooth bar stretching almost the whole There are two Purgas right next to each other on the Fon- simple bite to eat and a marvelous selection of beers to re- length of the place, the wall reveals shelves groaning un- tanka river. Purga I celebrates New Year’s Eve every night fresh the busy sightseer. The small and friendly environment der the weight of just about any spirit you might fancy. complete with midnight countdown and mock TV address has more of a relaxed pub feel than a restaurant, and indeed Fortunately without the reputation of the infamous New by Russia/Soviet leaders. In Purga II, couples celebrate as a self proclaimed ‘gastrobar’ offers filling but carefully York City Terminal bar appearing in Martin Scorsese’s mock weddings and dress up in white plastic creations to prepared food. The library-esque wood paneling and plush ‘Taxi Driver’, the space is popular with the trendy folk of look like brides and bridegrooms. Book ahead if you want leather furniture make up for the lack of books, but the ven- the city spread across the bar stools peppered across the to get a table and make sure you arrive before midnight, ue might be more of a place to catch some football on the room. There is even a piano here for those who feel like when the festivities begin.QE-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 11, many screens with a fresh Belgian beer than somewhere entertaining.QE-2, Ul. Belinskogo 11, MMayakovskaya. MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 570 51 23, www.purga- to relax with just a book for company.QD-3, Voznesensky Open 14:00 until last guest. €. PW club.ru. Open 16:00 - 06:00. PASW pr. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 927 39 99, www. library-bar.ru. Open 24hrs. €€. PASW Radiobaby Clubs With its high ceilings and groovy modern décor, Ra- Liverpool Avrora diobaby has been cleverly divided with the dance floor, If Beatles covers are your thing, you’ll enjoy Liverpool - a Avrora bills itself as an entertainment complex and certainly bar and chill-out room all flowing into one another so pub with local bands playing British retro pop. Liverpool has grand ambitions with a bowl-shaped concert hall that you can rock, drink and relax all in one place. The crowd serves great food in large portions, has screens for sport can fit up to 1500 during concerts and a smaller and more is a diverse mix of hipsters and the old-guard and the events and quite a few beers on offer. Located just a short intimate hall, B.B. King, which features smaller concerts and DJs are local favorites who know how to keep the energy walk from Nevsky Prospekt it serves as a good place to other events. The programme features a mix of pop, rock, folk, up. The no house, no techno rule is in effect. Entrance is relax, play pool and have beers with friends, while hum- punk, and alternative concerts as well as disco nights and af- through the archway and to the left.QD-3, Kazanskaya ming or singing along with your favorite songs.QE-3, Ul. ter parties. In much of the club there is an amazing view of the ul. 7, MNevsky pr., www.radiobaby.com. Open 18:00 - Mayakovskogo 16, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 579 Big Nevka River and the Avrora Cruiser.QE-1, Pirogovskaya 06:00. PEW 20 54, www.liverpool.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat nab. 5/2, MPl. Lenina, tel. (+7) 812 907 19 17, www.avrora- 12:00 - 03:00. €€. PAW zal.ru. Open 12:00 - 22:00. PALEW Cocktail bars Poltory Komnaty Dacha Bar 812 However many friends you roll up to Poltory Komnaty bar This place gets really crowded during the weekend but Weeknights this narrow bar seems like a quiet, unassum- with, you can expect one more in the form of the barman. then it also tends to be more fun. The later the hour the ing place to sip a cocktail and chat with a date or a friendly Enthusiastic to shake up a cocktail selected specially for crazier the atmosphere with people dancing up a huge fellow patron. At the weekend, however, the beautiful you from their vast expertise, the staff will save you the sweat in this tiny pocket of a place. Don’t dress too fancy people come out to glide past face control and play Carrie trouble of deliberating over long cocktail menus. All the if you’re coming here for the night, you’re likely to get Bradshaw with their cosmos in hand and dance stillettos at drinks here are presented beautifully, the typically elegant beer spilt on you and the place is smokier than a cuban the ready. No beer, just (expertly) mixed drinks.QE-3, Ul. cocktails are served on a mini wooden board decorated warehouse. Despite the mess the friendly and energetic Zhukovskogo 11, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 956 81 with a sort of mini tapas of anything from chocolate or atmosphere of Dacha is addictive.QD-3, Dumskaya ul. 9, 29, www.bar812.ru. Open 18:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - berries to cured meat to accompany a red wine.QE-2, Ul. MNevsky pr. Open 18:00 - 06:00. PEW 04:00. PAESW Mayakovskogo 34, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 905 255 38 48. Open 18:00 until last guest. €. PAW Dom Byta Daiquiri Bar The owners had their tongues firmly in cheek when this bar Sexy girls in racy outfits and handsome men in suits cover was named after the type of storefronts that offer everything the walls in this red, white and chrome homage to Sex and “Blue Route” Pub Crawl from plastic tablecloths to watch repair. The interior is pure the City. The staff are extremely friendly and the cocktails 70s swank, with burnished gold wall hangings and a long professionally made - the house daiquiris are particularly The Dickens cordially invites you on a pub crawl: an ad- turquoise bar. Nice touches like vintage glass ashtrays and good. With more than 300 exotic yet reasonably priced venturous, not particularly strenuous activity for those antique porcelain teapots show impeccable taste in kitsch cocktails on the list it can be a good place to start the week- faithful who cherish the English tradition of spending and the DJs are no less sensitive to the mood, playing subtle end. Also at Gorokhovaya ul. 49.QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya an enjoyable evening wandering from one pleasant electro tracks on quieter nights and amping it up for the more ul. 1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 943 81 14, www.dbar.ru. hostelry to the next in the company of friends both boisterous weekends.QE-3, Razyezzhaya ul. 12, MVladi- Open 16:00 - 04:00. Fri, Sat 16:00 - 06:00. PASW old and new. What better way than a pub-crawl to do mirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 975 55 99, www.dombeat.ru. Open justice to the famous White Nights, and to fix in your 12:00 - 06:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 07:00. PTAESW Tsvetochki memory the wonders of summer in the centre of St A café-bar in the true sense of the word. Guests are seated Petersburg? Come with us on a special trip through Mishka around a handful of small wooden tables alternatively the city centre, punctuated by your favourite watering- Named after the youtube celebrity, Mishka the talking drinking pots of tea or complicated cocktails and the mu- holes (you’ll spot them by their colour: our pub signs, husky, this tiny basement bar is well done up in grey with sic is a mash of country, jazz, soul and nostalgic pop. Décor staff uniforms, even our upholstery is all in the same pink accents. All the hipsters are here, with their oversized is minimal brick walls and the odd splash of colour with dark blue Dickens hue). Collect two stamps on our spe- glasses and handmade accessories. They’re tapping their the trendy good-looking staff an added feature. Tsvetoch- cial Blue Route flyer, and claim your free pint of proper feet to the DJ who’s sharing space with the friendly bar- ki attracts a young, intelligent set looking to start the night English ale in the third pub you visit. (Stamps valid for tenders.QE-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 40, MNevksky pr., in a laidback fashion so leave your bling at home.QE-3, Ul. one day only). Read more at www.dickenspubs.com tel. (+7) 812 643 25 50, www.mishkabar.ru. Open 12:00 Rubinshteina 36, MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 942 07 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. PAEW 54. Open 09:00 - 05:00. PAW 46 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket October - November 2014 47 What to see What to see Peter and Paul Fortress The Fortress is the cradle of the city; St. Petersburg’s first Hermitage settlement. Now a tourist complex, it houses the famous Cathedral of the Saint Apostles Peter and Paul, along with The director of the Hermitage once said, “I can’t say that numerous museums, galleries and spectacular river-side the Hermitage is the number one museum in the world, views. The proudest offerings are the large Commandant’s but it’s certainly not the second.” And with over three House museum which examines the history of the city and million works of art and treasures housed in five con- the smaller, modern and fun museum at the Neva Curtain nected buildings along the Neva, the museum can’t fail Wall which studies the history of the Fortress itself. How- to impress. Give yourself plenty of time and try to go ever, the more unusual Engineer’s House and Museum of on a weekday to avoid the crowds or even take a virtual Space Exploration are really very quirky and good. The tour. Four hours is probably an absolute minimum of Mint displays coin collections and the Printing Workshop time to spend there if you want to see the main state contains printing and ceramic relics. Visit the Neva Cur- rooms and some of the most popular artworks. tain Wall archway for the best view, and brave a dip in the bracing waters… at your own risk.QD-2, Petropavlovs- The museum’s art collection covers all of the great- kaya krepost 3, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 64 31, est European movements. Lovers of the renaissance www.spbmuseum.ru. The fortress is open 08:30 - 21:00. shouldn’t miss the Da Vincis, Canalettos, Michaelange- All details about museums and cathedral open hours los and Raphaels of the Italian rooms. The Rembrandt on the website. Entrance to fortress is free. All inclusive room filled with works by the old master is another ticket 370Rbl (ticket valid for all museums). must as are the nearby El Grecos. The great impression- ists like Gaugin, Van Gogh, Degas, Matisse, Picasso and Russian Museum the gang are all up on the top floor where there is also a St. Petersburg’s World-Heritage-Listed city centre is one of the Kazan Cathedral A dazzling journey from thirteenth century icons to the very large selection of Oriental and Middle Eastern art. most awe-inspiring in Europe. Designed by Europe’s greatest This cathedral, which was modelled on St. Peter’s in Rome, is cream of Russian avant-garde, the Russian Museum is architects, it was virtually untouched during Soviet times. one of the city’s most majestic. It was built from 1801 to 1811 housed in various buildings and palaces. With a maze The ground floor houses the museum’s treasures of an- They did however add a few hundred apartment monstrosi- to house the miracle-working Icon Our Lady of Kazan. The of beautifully decorated rooms, the main Mikhailovsky cient Greece, Rome, Egypt and Persia as well as antiquities ties outside town though. The city has an enormous amount dome is 80-metres high and the colonnade facing Nevsky Palace is a delight for art-lovers, whatever their favoured from the near and central east. There is also a number of of individual tourist attractions which remain enchantingly has 96 columns. Be warned, it’s a quiet place and they don’t genre. It is widely acclaimed for containing the most out- cafes and shops on the ground floor just to the right of beautiful and steeped in fascinating history. like you to talk a lot in here, it’s place of prayer and contem- standing collection of icons from ancient Rus. The Benois the main staircase after the entrance to the museum. plation.QD-3, Kazanskaya pl. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) Wing has an especially strong display of work from the 812 314 46 63, www.kazansky-spb.ru. Open 09:00 - 20:00 turn of the twentieth century. Tickets can include entrance The largest number of opulent state rooms such as the The Essentials Daily services 10:00 and 18:00. Admission free. to the Stroganov Palace, Marble Palace and Mikhailovsky throne rooms, ballrooms, boudoirs, the spectacular clock Aleksander Nevsky Monastery Castle which host temporary exhibitions. QD-2, Inzhen- room with its huge peacock clock and other libraries, Founded by Peter the Great, in 1710, this orthodox mon- Kunstkamera (Peter the Great Museum ernaya ul. 4, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 42 48, www. parlours and the like are largely located on the first floor astery is the most important in St. Petersburg. The St. of Anthropology and Ethnography) rusmuseum.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. (in Russian 2nd floor) of the winter palace and lead off in Trinity cathedral is worth a visit and so is the cemetery, St. Petersburg’s oldest museum is also its strangest. Kunst- Closed Tue. Admission 150 - 350Rbl. All inclusive ticket different directions from the Jordan staircase (where you where you can visit the graves of Russia’s greatest com- kamera (which translates as art house) was founded by Pe- 300 - 600Rbl. enter the museum just after the ticket offices). posers and writers, including Tchaikovsky, Mussorgsky, ter the Great in 1714. It is also known as the Peter the Great Glinka and Dostoevsky. You can buy fresh holy bread in Museum of Anthropology and Ethnography. It has anthro- St. Isaac’s Cathedral the monastery’s bakery in the afternoon (on your left as pological and ethnographic collections on the cultures Fully restored inside and out, St. Isaac’s is one of the world’s you approach the Trinity cathedral from the entrance).QF- of people around the world as well as an eclectic mix of largest and most ornate cathedrals. The interior is adorned 3, Nab. reky Monastyrky 1, MPl. Aleksandra Nevskogo, random items that Peter and Russian explorers collected with gold trim, mosaics and paintings. Designed by Au- tel. (+7) 812 274 17 02, www.lavra.spb.ru. Open daily on their worldly travels. Peter’s Anatomical Collection with guste de Montferrand and built between 1818 and 1858 06:00 - 20:00. Admission free. its severed hands and malformed babies in jars still draws the church was named in tribute to Peter the Great who the crowds.QC-2, Universitetskaya nab. 3, MAdmiral- was born on the day of St. Isaac of Dalmatia. If it is a clear Church of the Saviour on the Spilt teiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 328 14 12, www.kunstkamera. day we recommend climbing to the dome’s top; the pan- Blood ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon and last Tue of the oramic view is absolutely worth the effort.QD-3, Isaakievs- This Moscow-style church with richly coloured onion month. Admission 50 - 250Rbl. kaya pl. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 97 32, domes looks a bit out of place in the European centre of www.cathedral.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Wed. Col- St. Petersburg, but it’s one of the city’s most beautiful and onnade open daily 11:00 - 17:00. Closed second Wed of memorable landmarks. It got its awkward name because the month. Tickets for the cathedral and the colonnade it was built on the spot where Tsar Alexander II was mur- are sold separately. Admission Cathedral 50 - 250Rbl. dered in 1881. Locals call it ‘the mosaic church’ because Colonnade 150Rbl. Audioguide 100Rbl. QD-2, Dvortsovaya nab. 34 (entrance from the interior is covered with magnificent mosaics, each Dvortsovaya pl.), MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 wall with a particular Biblical theme. It was renovated in Take note that most museum ticket offices close one 710 90 79, www.hermitagemuseum.org. Open the early 1990s and reopened as a museum in 1997.QD- hour before the official closing time. Also remember most 10:30 - 18:00, Wed 10:30 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Ad- 2, Nab. kan. Griboedova 2b, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) museums ask you to buy an extra photography ticket if mission 400Rbl. Audioguide 350Rbl. Excursion bu- 812 315 16 36, www.cathedral.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00. you would like to take photos or videos reau (+7) 812 571 84 46. Closed Wed. Admission 50 - 250Rbl. 48 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket October - November 2014 49 What to see What to see

Churches Museums Lyrical City modern art centres St. Petersburg is home to St. Petersburg has been described as a ‘living museum un- With so many wonderful writers and poets who were born many different churches der the open skies’, and for good reason! There is something in and inspired by St. Petersburg, you cannot leave the city and monasteries, all with for everyone, from the world famous Hermitage art gallery, without visiting one of the museums honouring them. beautiful architecture. to museums about the city’s famous writers, including Of course there is St. Dostoevsky, as well as museums dedicated to vodka (of F.M.Dostoevsky Literary-Memorial Isaac’s Cathedral, which course!), chocolate, and bread! You can also see castles and Museum is the largest Russian Or- palaces, such as the Mikhailovsky Castle, and the Menshi- QD-3, Kuzhnechny per. 5/2, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) thodox Cathedral in the kov Palace, as well as the Peter and Paul Fortress, which is 812 571 40 31, www.md.spb.ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00. city, and one of the larg- now The State Museum of History of St. Petersburg. Closed Mon and on public holidays. Admission 30 - est domed cathedrals in 160Rbl. Audioguide 100 - 170Rbl. Guided tours should the world. It houses a Artillery Museum be booked in advance by phone. museum, and it is possible to walk up to the colonnade QD-2, Aleksandrovsky park 7 (entrance from Kro- Memorial flat of Alexander Blok If modern art is more your thing, you are well provided for fantastic views of the city. The distinctive Church of the nverkskaya nab.), MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 232 QB-2, Ul. Dekabristov 57, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 713 for! St. Petersburg is home to many modern art galleries, Saviour on the Spilt Blood is no longer consecrated, but is 02 96, www.artillery-museum.ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00. 86 31, www.spbmuseum.ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Tue including the Anna Nova Art Gallery, which focuses on now a museum of mosaics. The unique Kazan Cathedral Closed Mon, Tue and last Thu of the month. Admission 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Wed. Admission 60 - 100Rbl. young up-and-coming artists, as well as The State Mu- dominates Nevsky Prospect, and the Troitsky Cathedral 50 - 300Rbl. Nabokov Museum seum and Exhibition Centre for Photography (ROS- with its blue domes overlooks the Fontanka Canal. These Grandmaket (Russia in miniature) QC-2, Bol. Morskaya ul. 47, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) PHOTO). Other highlights include the S.P.A.S. Gallery, buildings give a great insight into Russia’s past. QTsvetochnaya ul. 16, MMoskovskie Vorota, tel. (+7) 812 315 47 13, www.nabokovmuseum.org. Open 11:00 which is the oldest of its kind in the city, and the Erarta 812 495 54 65, www.grandmaket.ru. Open 10:00 - - 18:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission Museum and Galleries of Modern Art, which is the Smolny Cathedral 20:00. Admission 400Rbl, children 200Rbl. Weekend free. biggest non-governmental contemporary museum in QF-2, Pl. Rastrelli 3, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 450Rbl, children 250Rbl. Pushkin Apartment Museum Russia, and houses around 2000 works. 710 31 59, www.cathedral.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00, bell- Museum of the History of Religion QD-2, Nab. reky Moiky 12, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 Anna Nova Art Gallery tower 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed. Admission 50 - 150Rbl, QC-3, Pochtamtskaya ul. 14, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. 571 35 31, www.museumpushkin.ru. Open 10:30 - QD-3, Ul. Zhukovskogo 28, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. concerts 200 - 700Rbl. Bell-tower 100Rbl. (+7) 812 314 58 38, www.gmir.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, 18:00. Closed Tue, last Fri of the month. Admission 40 +7 (812) 275 97 62, www.annanova-gallery.ru. St. Nicholas Cathedral Tue 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Wed. Admission 150 - 300Rbl. - 250Rbl. Audioguide 250Rbl. Erarta QC-3, Nikolskaya pl. 1/3, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 Museum of the St. Petersburg QB-3, VO, 29-ya linya, 2, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. 714 70 85, www.nikolskiysobor.ru. Open 06:30 - 19:30. Avant-garde (Matyushin house) (+7) 812 324 08 09, www.erarta.com. Daily services 07:00, 10:00, 18:00. Admission free. QD-1, Ul. Professora Popova 10, MPetrogradskaya, Tours around Marina Gisich Gallery Troitsky Cathedral tel. (+7) 812 347 68 98, www.spbmuseum.ru. Open City Tour Bus QC-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 121, MSadovaya, tel. QD-4, Izmailovsky pr. 7a, MTekhnologichesky Insti- 11:00 - 18:00, Tue 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Wed. Admission Tracing a route around the city’s most popular spots such (+7) 812 314 43 80, www.gisich.com. tut, tel. (+7) 812 251 89 27, www.izmsobor.ru. Open 60 - 100Rbl. as St. Isaac’s Square, Avrora, Peter and Paul Fortress, these Novy musey 08:00 - 19:00. Daily services 10:00, Fri - Sun 17:00. Museum of Political History of Russia unique in Russia hop-on, hop-off red double-deckers QC-2, VO, 6-ya liniya, 29, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. Vladimirsky Cathedral QD-2, Ul. Kuibysheva 2-4 (entrance from Kronversky pr.), are a great way to see a lot in just a short time. The route (+7) 812 323 50 90, www.novymuseum.ru. QE-3, Vladimirsky pr. 20, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 233 70 52, www.polithistory. takes just over two hours to complete and there are audio S.P.A.S Gallery 812 312 19 38, www.vladimirsobor.spb.ru. Open 08:00 - ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Wed 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Thu and guides that narrate the most fascinating facts and legends QC-2, Nab. reky Moiky 93, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 19:30. Services daily 09:00, 18:00. Sun 07:00, 10:00. last Mon of the month. Admission 60 - 150Rbl. about St. Petersburg and its heroes in one of 11 languages, 812 571 42 60, www.spasgal.ru. Suvorov Memorial Museum including Japanese, Chinese, Swedish, Finnish and Dutch. ROSPHOTO Russian Vodka Museum QE-3, Kirochnaya ul. 43, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) An added advantage is that the ticket is valid for a whole QC-2, Bol. Morskaya ul. 35, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. 812 579 39 14, www.suvorovmuseum.ru. Open 10:00 - day, so you can plan your own city visit as you like.QD-3, (+7) 812 314 12 14, www.rosphoto.org. Vodka Museum 18:00, Wed 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission Pl. Ostrovskogo, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 718 47 69/ This small museum presents 50 - 300Rbl. (+7) 961 800 07 55, www.citytourspb.ru. Start from Os- the long history of Russia’s Yusupov Palace trovsky sq., departure every 30-60 min from 09:00 till CITY CARD national drink, from 12th QC-3, Nab. reky Moiky 94, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 19:00. Adults 500Rbl, students 400Rbl, children under Century peasants through 98 83, www.yusupov-palace.ru. Open 11:00 - 17:00. Group 12 years old 200Rbl. Tickets can be bought on the bus. Get the most out of your to 20th Century presidents. tours should be booked in advance by phone (+7) 812 314 PUN trip to St. Petersburg with Display cases full of vodka 88 93. Excursions 150 - 500Rbl. Audioguide 500Rbl. the Petersburg Card. This convenient sightseeing card bottles in unusual shapes, Peter’s Walking Tours gives you access to a hop-on hop-off bus trip around old advertising campaigns A diverse choice of tours and personalised routes, add in the city and a free river cruise, free entry to more than 40 and some funny dioramas some extremely informative and downright friendly guides museums around the city and a free boat trip to Peterhof. explain the evolution of the makes going on a Peter’s Walking Tours one of the best It also gives you discounts for a number of tourist servi- Russian firewater. An excursion is recommended as the ex- choices you can make while visiting St. Petersburg. Guides ces and restaurants. Whether you are a visitor to the city hibits are in Russian only. In the tasting room, there’s also a are extremely informative about architecture and history, as with only a couple of days here or an expat wanting to chance to try out three different vodkas and traditional Rus- well as modern Russian society and with their ‘alternative’ get to know the insides and outs of this amazing city, the sian snacks.QC- 2, Konnogvardeisky bul. 4, MNevsky routes, they can show you how to escape the tourist traps Petersburg Card is a great investment. The card is avai- pr., tel. (+7) 812 570 64 22, www.vodkamuseum.su. and reveal the real city.QTel. (+7) 812 943 12 29, www. lable in 2, 3, 5 and 7 days options for your convenience. Open 12:00 - 19:00. Admission 170Rbl. peterswalk.com. Walking tours are held daily until the More information at www.petersburgcard.com. end of October. Walking tour 650Rbl. 50 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket October - November 2014 51 What to see What to see Oranienbaum Oranienbaum (Orange Tree) isn’t quite as popular among Getting There tourists as other similar palaces, but it’s nonetheless a lovely place for a picnic or for a walk through peaceful gar- Pushkin – Pavlovsk dens and pine woods. Prince Alexander Menshikov, one of Pushkin and Pavlovsk are located about 20km south of Peter the Great’s best friends, started building the estate St. Petersburg. and its Grand Palace. Catherine the Great made it one of By bus/marshrutka: From Moskovskaya metro station: her holiday spots and built a small Chinese palace with for Pushkin take marshrutka 286, 287, 342, 347, 382 or baroque outside and rococo within. Menshikov’s Grand take public bus 187; for Pavlovsk take marshrutka 299. Palace hasn’t changed a great deal over the centuries and From Kupchino metro station: for Pushkin take bus 186, it’s one of the few palaces on the outskirts of the city that for Pavlovsk take marshrutka 286. wasn’t destroyed by the Nazis. There are numerous devel- By train: For Pushkin take a train from Vitebsky train opment plans in progress in Oranienbaum, also known as station (Pushkinskaya metro station) to Detskoe Selo. Lomonosov. You can have a cheap Russian dinner in a cafe From there you can walk to Catherine’s Palace (20min) near the administration building, the only place in the park or take bus 371, 382 or marshrutka 371, 377, 382. where you can buy food or drinks. For Pavlovsk take a train from Vitebsky train station to Pavlovsk. From there you can take bus 370, 383, 493 or St. Petersburg‘s marshrutka 513, 299, 286. You can also take a train from Opening Times Historical Outskirts Kupchino metro/train station. and Tickets There is no time like autumn to catch the best of St. Peters- Strelna – Peterhof – Oranienbaum burg and the surrounding parks and estates. The trees offer Peterhof is located about 30km west of St. Petersburg Oranienbaum a spectacular range of colours as their leaves turn red and on the Finnish gulf. Oranienbaum is located 40km west QTel. (+7) 812 423 16 33, www.oranienbaum.org. golden with the last heat of summer. Enjoy the last weeks of St. Petersburg and Strelna is located six kilometres Park open daily 09:00 - 20:00. Palaces open 10:30 - of sun before winter sets in by visiting the parks and palaces east of Peterhof (about halfway between St. Petersburg 18:00, closed Mon. Park admission 200Rbl. Palaces around St. Petersburg. proper and Peterhof). 250 - 550Rbl, all inclusive ticket 550Rbl. By bus/marshrutka: From Avtovo metro station take Konstantinovsky Palace marshrutka (commercial bus) 224, 300, 424 or 424a. Pavlovsk Once known as Putin’s Palace, this palace is now one of the You can also take public buses 200, 210. From Baltisky QTel. (+7) 812 452 15 36, www.pavlovskmuseum. official Presidential residences. Historically speaking, the train station (Baltiskaya metro station): marshrutka ru. Park open daily 10:00 - 20:00. Palace open 10:00 Palace’s original owners were the Romanovs; however, af- Pavlovsk 404. From Pr. Veteranov metro station: marshrutka - 17:00. Closed first Mon of the month. Admission to ter the 1917 Revolution, it fell into disrepair. Nowadays the Subtle, romantic, relaxing and quiet. All perfect words to 343, 639b. From Leninsky pr. metro station: marshrutka park 80 - 150Rbl. Admission to palace 250 - 450Rbl. public can enjoy the immaculate lawns. Inside the palace describe Pavlovsk. Only 27km from the big city, it feels like 103(K224). are spectacular views over the gulf and sumptuous meet- a world away. The small town hosts the fascinating Pav- By train: Take a train from Baltisky train station to Novy ing rooms with huge sparkling chandeliers. There is also a lovsk Palace, encompassed by a huge 1,500 acre park. Tall Peterhof. These trains leave in the directions of Kalishe, Peterhof display of Russian paintings, decorative and applied arts trees, winding streams and endless paths scattered with Oranienbaum or Krasnoflotsk. Once in Novy Peterhof, QTel. (+7) 812 450 52 87, www.peterhofmuseum. from 18th to 20th century as well as a unique collection of classical statues and flanked by benches make for many take buses 349, 350, 351, 352, 355, 356, warn the driver ru. Park open daily 09:00 - 19:00. Palaces open 10:30 fine wines. Note you must show your passport when you a secluded spot. If you have active children who need a that you want to exit next to the fountains. - 18:00, Great Palace open 10:30 - 19:00, Sat 10:30 - enter (this is also an official government building). place to blow off some steam, pack a picnic and make an For Strelna get off at the Strelna station. For Oranien- 21:00. Great Palace closed on Mondays and last Tue afternoon of it. The enchanting Pavlovsk Palace, with its baum get off at the Oranienbaum station. of the month. Admission to lower park adults 500Rbl Peterhof Palace and Park magnificent neoclassical interior, is a feast for the eyes. The and students 250Rbl. The upper park is free. Admis- Accurately referred to as the ‘Russian Versailles’, Peter- country residence of the Imperial family boasts beautiful sion Great Palace adults 500Rbl. and students 300Rbl. hof is one of Russia’s number one tourist attractions. It architecture and captivating history. Certainly not as grand Pushkin Tour booking office (+7) 812 450 58 06. is particularly spectacular from late-May to mid-October, as Peterhof, but much less touristy, Pavlovsk is a great Tsarskoe Selo or Pushkin? Both names still apply to one of when the 147 fountains are turned on, but even so it is place to get away from it all. St. Petersburg’s most famous imperial villages. The sum- Pushkin well worth visiting at any other time of year. The Great mer home of the Romanov tsars for centuries, Tsarskoe QTel. (+7) 812 415 76 67, www.tzar.ru. Catherine Palace was built between 1709 and 1724 under the direc- Selo or the ‘Royal Village’ was renamed Pushkin following Park open 09:00 - 21:00. Catherine’s Palace open tions of Peter the Great, but the tsars and tsarinas that the communist revolution in honour of one of its other 12:00 - 14:00 and 16:00 - 17:00, Mon 12:00 - 14:00 followed each wanted to make their own mark, adding well-known residents, the poet Alexander Pushkin. In and 16:00 - 20:00. Closed Tue and last Mon of the another palace or fountain to the grounds. The focal 2010 the town celebrated its 300th birthday and follow- month. Admission: Park 60 - 120Rbl, Catherine Pal- point of the whole ensemble is the jaw-dropping cas- ing intense restoration works Pushkin’s many treasures are ace 200 - 400Rbl, audioguide 150Rbl. cade fountain leading down from the palace and from sparkling. Regardless of the time of year, sightseeing op- there the park spreads out to the left and right along the portunities abound, from the spectacular Catherine Park Strelna coastline with trick fountains, pyramid fountains, marble filled with quirky monuments commissioned by the Em- QTel. (+7) 812 438 53 60, www.konstantinpalace. sculptures and other impressive stuff. Other museums press and the sparkling Amber room of Catherine’s Palace ru. Open 10:00 - 16:30. Closed Wed. Call before you worth visiting within the grounds include the Hermitage to the quieter Alexander Palace where the last Tsars spent visit the palace, to make sure it’s not closed for an Palace, the Marly Palace and Monplaisir, the little house their final days before they were arrested by the Bolsheviks official function. Admission 200 - 300Rbl. where Peter the Great used to organise parties for his and the literary school museum where the poet Alexander closest (and rowdiest) friends. Pushkin studied. 52 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket October - November 2014 53 What to see Where to stay Whether you are visiting St. Petersburg for a night or a Old Soviet Stuff TourS month, you want to be able to stay in a hotel which enables If you want to see a completely different side of St. Peters- you to get the most out of your visit. We have a selection burg there are some new initiatives which aim to show you of hotels ranging from luxury five star hotels to boutique the fascinating sights beyond St. Petersburg. One of those mini-hotels filled with charm. You can find out where these is WOW Russia Tours which offers tours in a classic Soviet hotels are located and what market they cater for. The trav- Volga. We decided to check their signature tour; the Old eller who is looking to stretch their budget will appreciate Soviet Stuff Tour. the centrally located hostels and dormitories just as much The tour is a rough history of the communistic era with as the high flying business executive who is looking for a some iconic buildings as an example. From the place where quiet place to unwind after a hectic day of negotiations and the revolution started all the way up to the Soviet 70s. It cultural programmes. wasn’t a boring history lesson but a combination of inter- esting stories and anecdotes instead. The tour contains a Lenin pointing at things, a futuristic looking building which 5 Stars could be starring in any science fiction movie ,a slowly de- Angleterre Hotel caying communistic factory and some other surprises just QD-3, Mal. Morskaya ul. 24, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. around the corner. (+7) 812 494 56 66, www.angleterrehotel.com. 193 We visited all the sites with a classic Soviet GAZ Volga 24. rooms. Called a ‘Soviet Mercedes’ this 1979 Volga 24 is pretty big his first visit and wants to share this with his guests. Except Corinthia Hotel St. Petersburg and supposed to have 125 horsepower but we think some for tours in his Volga car, Jonathan will also offer other ex- QE-3, Nevsky pr. 57, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 380 horses left the engine over the years . We liked the 70’s cursions during the season. Something involving Russian 20 01, www.corinthia.com. 388 rooms. interior with its fancy fake wood dashboard and mustard country-life, how to cleanse yourself from your sins and Domina Prestige Hotel St. Petersburg yellow seats. Nothing makes you feel more in Russia then a dirt and we even heard the word Kalashnikov somewhere QС-3, Nab. reky Moiky 99, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) noisy, slightly uncomfortable, old piece of Soviet engineer- during our trip. Top all this off with a small shot of vodka 812 385 99 00, www.dominarussia.com. 109 rooms. ing pride. The drive should already be a part of the adven- and explore Russia as you have never seen it before. As says Four Seasons Hotel Lion Palace ture and with this Volga that certainly was the case! their slogan! Have fun! QTel. (+7) 965 786 26 48, www. St. Petersburg WOW Russia Tours was set up by Jonathan who left Holland wowrussiatours.com. Tours are possible everyday. QD-3, Voznesensky pr. 1, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) by car all the way to the south of Russia, before he settled Pick up point and time are flexible. Admission from 812 339 80 00, www.fourseasons.com/stpetersburg/. in St. Petersburg. He’s been in love with the country since 2,000Rbl per person. 183 rooms. Golden Garden boutique Hotel QE-3, Vladimirsky pr. 9, MDostoyevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 334 22 33, www.goldengarden.ru. 23 rooms. Grand Hotel Europe QD-3, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 60 00, www.grandhoteleurope.com. 276 rooms. Hotel Astoria QD-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 39, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 57 57, www.thehotelastoria.com. 188 rooms. Kempinski Hotel Moika 22 QD-2, Nab. Reky Moiky 22, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 91 11, www.kempinski.com/stpetersburg. 197 rooms. Radisson Royal Hotel QE-3, Nevsky pr. 49/2, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 322 50 00, www.radisson.ru/hotel-stpetersburg. 164 rooms. Sokos Hotel Palace Bridge QC-2, Birzhevoy per. 4, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 00, www.sokoshotels.com. 324 rooms. Taleon Imperial Hotel QD-3, Nevsky pr. 15, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 324 99 11, www.taleonimperialhotel.com. 89 rooms. W St. Petersburg QD-3, Voznesensky pr. 6, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 610 61 61, www.wstpetersburg.com. 137 rooms. U menya zabronirovan nomer - I have a reservation

54 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket October - November 2014 55 Where to stay Where to stay Park Inn by Radisson Nevsky Ask the Concierge 4 Stars QE-3, Nevsky pr. 89, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 406 73 Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg 10, www.parkinn.com/hotel-stpetersburg. 269 rooms. Interview with Ludmila Center West Pushkin Hotel Park Inn by Radisson Pulkovskaya Sternina, Concierge at Taleon QC-4, Nab. kan. Griboedova 166 (entrance via and beds.QPl. Pobedy 1, MMoskovskaya, tel. (+7) Imperial Hotel Kanonerskaya ul. 33), MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 610 50 812 740 39 00, www.parkinn.com/hotelpulkovskaya- Please tell us something 00, www.courtyardstpetersburgpushkin.ru. 273 rooms. stpetersburg. 841 rooms. about yourself. My name is Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg Radisson Sonya Hotel Q M Ludmila Sternina and I’ve been Vasilievsky E-2, Liteiny pr. 5/19, Chernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 Q M working as a Concierge at Tale- C-2, 2-ya liniya 61/30 A, Vasileostrovskaya, tel. 406 00 00, www.radisson.ru/sonyahotel-stpetersburg. on Imperial Hotel for the last 2 (+7) 812 380 40 11, www.courtyardsaintpetersburg.ru. 173 rooms . years. I was born in St. Peters- 214 rooms. Sokos Hotel Vasilievsky Q M burg and my introduction to the hotel industry was in Crowne Plaza St. Petersburg Airport C-3, 9-ya Liniya 11-13, Vasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) the role of a tour-guide. Then I was lucky to try myself in the hotel and the city centre and between the two airport 812 335 22 90, www.sokoshotels.com. 255 rooms. Q M the best hotels of St. Petersburg and even had a unique terminals. Startovaya ul. 6, bldg. A, Moskovskaya, Sokos Hotel Olympia Garden Q M opportunity to work for 1.5 year in Miami Beach in one tel. (+7) 812 240 42 00, www.cpairport.ru. 294 rooms. D-4, Bataisky per. 3a, Tekhnologichesky institut, of the most iconic hotels of USA. This summer I became Crowne Plaza St. Petersburg - Ligovsky tel. (+7) 812 335 22 70, www.sokoshotels.fi. 348 rooms. Q M a member of Les Clefs d’Or and I do take great pride in it. E-3, Ligovsky pr. 61, Pl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 244 00 01, www.crowneplaza.com/ligovsky. 195 rooms. Congratulations! You became a member of Les Holiday Inn Moskovskye Vorota 3 Stars Clefs d’Or not long ago, how does that feel? Be- metro.QMoskovsky pr. 97A, MMoskovskie Vorota, tel. AZIMUT Hotel Saint Petersburg coming a member of Les Clefs d’Or is a great personal and (+7) 812 448 71 27, www.hi-spb.com. 557 rooms. QC-4, Lermontovsky pr. 43/1, MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) professional achievement for me. I consider it an honor to Hotel Indigo St.Petersburg - 812 740 26 40, www.azimuthotels.com. 1037 rooms. be among the best and top professional Concierges from Tchaikovskogo Herzen House all over the world. I feel like a member of a big international QE-2, Ul. Tchaikovskogo 17, MChernyshevskaya, tel. QD-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 25, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. family where everyone fulfills our motto “In service through (+7) 812 454 55 77, www.ihg.com. 119 rooms. (+7) 812 315 55 50, www.herzen-hotel.ru. 29 rooms. friendship” each and every day. Novotel St. Petersburg Centre IBIS St. Petersburg Centre QE-3, Ul. Mayakovskogo 3A, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) QE-3, Ligovsky pr. 54, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 What can you tell us about your favorite places in 812 335 11 88, www.accorhotels.com/5679. 233 rooms. 622 01 00, www.ibishotel.com/6157. 221 rooms. St. Petersburg? One of my favorite places to visit is the Mariinsky Theatre. Ballet or opera, original or new stage – it is always a feast for the eyes and ears. Another special place is the Kazan Cathedral, where the wonder-working icon of Our Lady of Kazan is located. This architectural masterpiece full of history and a special spiritual atmosphere will never leave you indifferent. But the soul of the city is Neva. Only boat trips let me enjoy the actual alternative beauty of the “Northern Venice”. So don’t miss your chance before the navigation is closed for the winter. What do you like best about the Taleon Imperial Hotel? Taleon Imperial Hotel is a real gem. It is the only one in St. Petersburg located in an original 18th century palace. Opulent historic interiors and a luxury SPA with a 20-meter pool make you say “Wow” as soon as you enter. It still amazes me every day and I really feel a part of this history. But what makes any hotel alive are the people. It is a true pleasure and delight to work with our wonderful and professional team. Together we cre- ate an outstanding experience for our guests every day – that’s what makes my job really fascinating.

Registrations: all foreign visitors to Russia are obliged to register within seven working days (this excludes weekends and public holidays). Remember your hotel is obliged to register you as staying in their hotel. If a hotel refuses to register you make sure you complain – the registrations is their responsibility, not yours!

56 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket October - November 2014 57 Shopping Shopping

Russian souvenirs Gifts and Souvenirs Aurora Fashion Week Chocolate Museum Russia Russia is full of beautiful souvenirs – and we are not just QD-3, Nevsky pr. 17, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 talking about Russian dolls and Lenin badges. If you are 315 13 48, www.muzeyshokolada.ru. Open 11:00 - A fashion show that isn’t looking to take some extra special gifts home with you we 21:00. A only about fashion? Yes, recommend you consider buying some of the following: Gallery Mikhailov that’s Aurora Fashion QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 10, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) Week in a nutshell. This Platok 812 571 06 69, www.vmikhailov.ru. Open 11:00 - 21:00. A event, spanning 10 days A perfect present for any female friend or relative. La Petite Opera Gallery this October (from the These beautifully designed and colourful scarves can QD-3, Grand Hotel Europe, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, 8th until the 18th), will either spruce up the outfit of a young lady by being MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 65 89, www.lacquerbox. be held for the fifth time worn around the neck or serve to make your grandma net. Open 09:00 - 21:00. this year. Although a rela- look even cuter than usual by being worn around the Lomonosov Porcelain Factory tively young project, AFW has already become one of head. Orenburgsky platok is another highly desirable QPr. Obukhovskoy Oborony 151, MLomonosovskaya, tel. the most prominent event of its kind in the country. type of scarf made from the down hair of goats. The (+7) 812 326 17 44, www.ipm.ru. Open 10:00 - 20:00. A Aside from loud fashion premieres from influential lo- real hand spun ones are very warm and yet also so Nevsky Souvenir Shop cal and domestic world renowned designers such as delicate and silk-like that the whole scarf can be pulled QD-2, Nevsky pr. 22-24 (entrance at Bol. Konyushennaya Thom Browne, Costume National, David Koma, Mary through a woman’s wedding ring. ul. 12), MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 954 78 53, www. Katrantzou and Mark Fast, AFW incorporates various nevskysouvenir.com. Open 09:00 - 22:00. A events outside the podium that integrate fashion with Birch wood crafts Pavloposadskie Platki Shop other trends in modern culture. A screening of the The silver birch is the national tree of Russia, the fur- QE-3, Nevsky pr. 87/2, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 963 film “Yves Saint Laurent” will shed some light on the ther in to the countryside you get, the more you notice 329 12 63, www.platki.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. A life of the famed French fashion designer, while the that the world’s largest country is covered in them. It Souvenirs Fair ART x FASHION will be launched with the opening of then comes as no surprise that Russians have been QD-2, Nab. kan. Griboedova 1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) the “Russia in Vogue” exhibition on the 16th of Octo- experts at producing items carved out of the bark of 812 962 26 13. Open 09:00 - 18:00. A ber. Book launches and special gastronomical events their favourite tree. in the hippest restaurants will also be held through- out the city as part of AFW. www.afwrussia.com Khokhloma Bookshops This traditional red, black and gold Russian design gen- Bukvoed erally painted onto wooden household items dates QD-3, Nevsky pr. 46, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 601 06 Galeria back to the 18th Century. If you haven’t much space 01, www.bookvoed.ru. Open 24hrs. AKW in your luggage pick up a spoon and sugar pot, or if Dom Knigy The largest shopping mall in the centre of the city and you have space for more you can find almost anything QD-3, Nevsky pr. 28, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 448 23 a stone’s throw away from the Moscow Railway Station, with khokhloma on from tea trays to kitchen tables. 55, www.spbdk.ru. Open 09:00 - 24:00. AK Galeria cannot be missed. The huge beautiful new building fits remarkably well here. Inside, it’s everything Caviar you would expect from your modern shopping mall Black beluga caviar is still one of the most expensive foods Shopping centres and more. It boasts the largest selection of brands in St. on the planet and a small jar can set you back more than Bolshoy Gostiny Dvor Petersburg, from high street brands like Topshop, Levis, $100 if you buy it in the market. Never buy caviar from QD-3, Nevsky pr. 35, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 710 54 Mexx and French Connection to some Russian designer street touts, more often than not it is fake and/or illegal. 08, www.bgd.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. AK clothes as well. It also features a huge supermarket, food DLT Department store court, movie theatre, bowling alley and some very good QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 21-23, MAdmiral­ restaurants. When with children, head to the top floor St. Petersburg Fashion teiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 648 08 48, www.dlt.ru. Open where there is a huge entertainment area for the young Week 10:00 - 22:00. AKW and young-at-heart.QE-3, Ligovsky pr. 30A, MPl. GALERIA QE-3, Ligovsky pr. 30A, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 643 31 72, www.galeria-spb. Calling all fashionistas: one of the most important fashion (+7) 812 643 31 72, www.galeria-spb.ru. Open 10:00 - ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00. ALK events of the year is just around the corner! This year, the St. 23:00. ALK Petersburg Fashion Week (SPbFW) will take place from Oc- Nevsky Centre tober 2nd-5th under the patronage of Fashion Syndicate QE-3, Nevsky pr. 114-116, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 St. Petersburg. Famous Russian fashion designers, world 313 93 13, www.nevskycentre.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00. famous brands, international guests and fresh young AKW talents will present their collections for Spring/Summer Passage 2015. Reputable designers like Polina Raudson, MD Khar- QD-3, Nevsky pr. 48, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 52 len, Anna Ovchinnikova and Fabric Fancy (all members of 57, www.passage.spb.ru. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 Fashion Syndicate) will be representing the Russian fash- - 21:00. AK ion world and are joined by collections from Baltic, Serbian Eliseevsky Store and Belorussian designers. www.spbfashionweek.ru QE-3, Nevsky pr. 56, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 456 66 66, www.kupetzeliseevs.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. 58 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket October - November 2014 59 Expat & Business Expat & Business

The Expat Experience Cultural Centres LEARN russian at the and Libraries liden & denz My name is Marco Fien. I am a Danish Cultural Institute native of Hamburg, Germany. QD-3, Nab. reky Moiky 42, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 Dictionary for expats: I belong to the baby boomer 571 74 66, www.dki.spb.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Семь пятниц на неделе – Sem pyatnits na nedele generation of the early 1960s Sat, Sun. In Russian, this translates literally as ‘seven Fridays in a and have two sons of 22 and Estonian Cultural Center Jaani Kirik week’. “Seven Fridays?” you say, “that sounds perfect – I 10 years of age. The hospitality QC-3, Dekabristov ul. 54A, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 never have to face another Monday morning!” How- business has been my passion 710 84 46, www.jaanikirik.ru. Open 14:00 - 19:00, Sat ever, if a Russian friend says to you, with a sigh, or a since the moment I witnessed 11:00 - 19:00. roll of the eyes, “cемь пятниц на неделе”, they are not the General Manager of a luxu- Finnish Institute wishing you a week of Friday nights! In fact, the phrase ry Algarve resort property receive his guests for a cocktail QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 8, 3rd floor, MNevsky is equivalent to the English idiom ‘rain at seven, fine at party near the ocean. My mom recalls that at that very mo- pr., tel. (+7) 812 606 65 65, www.instfin.ru. Open 11:00 - eleven.’ When you hear this, you are being scolded for ment I exclaimed “I want to be like him!” I was 13 years old 17:00, Fri 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. changing your mind every five minutes, and generally at the time, so a few trials and tribulations followed before Goethe Institute being as fickle as they come. my life became what it is today. While it did not turn out to QD-3, Nab. reky Moiky 58, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 be an endless cocktail reception, it certainly has brought 363 11 25, www.goethe.de/stpetersburg. Open 08:15 me much joy being in this business over the past 30 years. - 20:00, closed Sat. Library open 14:00 - 17:00, closed I have never regretted the choice I made. Sun. Istituto Italiano di Cultura Liden & Denz is one of St. Petersburg’s oldest language What makes St. Petersburg special for you? Can QC-3, Teatralnaya pl. 10, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 schools, having opened in 1992. They have expanded you compare it with other big cities you’ve been to/ 718 81 89, www.iicsanpietroburgo.esteri.it. Open 09:00 into a large centre not far from Gostiny Dvor. Russian worked in? I consider myself very lucky working in such - 13:00, 14:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. is taught mainly in groups of up to 10 people, though a vibrant city with endless offerings of high class culture The Japan Center individual tuition is also available. Classrooms are and entertainment. I have lived in several cities around QE-3, Ul. Marata 69-71, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 bright and equipped with televisions and DVD players. the globe, e.g. Istanbul, Prague, London, Dubai, Beirut, 326 25 50, www.jpcenter.spb.ru. Open 09:00 -18:00. There are computers with internet access for student Jeddah, Almaty, Abu Dhabi, Stuttgart, Moscow and each Closed Sat, Sun. use, plus wi-fi internet if you want to bring your own has its undisputed charm, however never before have I The Netherlands Institute laptop.QE-3, Inzhenernaya ul. 6, MNevsky pr., tel. felt so connected with a place than St. Petersburg. I love QE-2, Kaluzhsky per. 3, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) (+7) 812 334 07 88, www.lidenz.ru. Open 09:00 - it not only in summer, which is maybe more obvious, but 812 327 08 87, www.nispb.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00. 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. winter bazaar also during the cold season, when the thick white snow Closed Sat, Sun. muffles the sound of noisy neighbors and romantic Rus- The Winter Bazaar is an annual fund raising event held sian fairy tale thoughts enter your mind. Derzhavin Institute by the International Women’s Club (IWC) St. Peters- Accountants burg. This annual event is held at the Astoria Hotel on What are your plans for the future? I am currently Acsour The Derzhavin institute is a great place to throw your- Sunday 23rd November 2014, 11:30 – 16:00. It has involved in a project which entails more responsibility QD-3, Nevsky pr. 10, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) self into the romance of Russian culture. Situated in one already become quite a tradition. The Winter Bazaar is for me for properties of the same owner, so I foresee re- 812 454 44 24, www.acsour.com. Open 09:00 - 18:00. wing of the refurbished 18th Century Derzhavin man- the IWC’s main fund raising event to finance the club’s maining in the city for a while longer. When one day my Closed Sat, Sun. sion, the school has a beautiful setting. There are seven charity activity during the year. The Winter Bazaar is also marching orders arrive, I know already now that it will be Avenir Group classrooms, all with high-ceilings and large windows. a wonderful way to meet lots of people, both Russian hard to find a match to this beautiful destination. Having QE-3, Vladimirsky pr. 23A, MVladimirskaya, tel. There’s also a library, common rooms and comput- and ex-pats. All of the proceeds raised go to various said that, several Asian countries as well as Marriott’s new (+7) 812 718 81 57, www.avenir.ru. Open 09:00 - 19:00. ers with free internet access for students. Short-term, charities in the city of St. Petersburg and the Leningrad venture into Africa hold interesting potential for me. Closed Sat, Sun. long-term, intensive and private lessons are available at Oblast. Last year about 1400 guests visited the Winter Deloitte Touche CIS all levels of proficiency. They also offer special courses Charity Bazaar. www.iwcstpete.com How do you spend your free time in St. Peters- QC-2, VO, Sredny pr. 36/40, lit.K, business center Gustaf, for expats. Classes are kept small, with a maximum of burg? What are your favorite spots in the city to MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 703 71 06, www. 8 students per group. The staff speak many different visit in the weekends? I play tennis on the weekends deloitte.com. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. PW languages and have experience in teaching at both Expat Contacts when time permits, study Russian twice a week (with EMG Russian universities and abroad. They can also organise Dutch Club St. Petersburg slow progress, but much vigor) and visit city center QС-4, 10-ya Krasnoarmeiskaya ul. 22, office 69, accommodation, excursions and other social activities Qwww.nlvpetersburg.com. restaurants frequently, both for the professional experi- MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 313 77 81, www.emg-russia. for students.QD-4, Nab. reky Fontanky 118, 3rd floor, English Communication Club ence as well as a simple hedonistic idea. I love walk- com. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. MTekhnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 740 19 Qtel. (+7) 911 163 56 45, www.encc.ru. ing in Elagin Park or along the seashore of the Finnish Ernst and Young 26, www.derzhavin.com. Open 09:00 - 18:00, classes International Women’s Club Gulf, visit Kronstadt and Pushkin from time to time or QD-3, Ul. Mal. Morskaya 23A, MAdmiralteiskaya, till 21:45. Closed Sat., Sun. Qwww.iwcstpete.com. General meetings are held undertake a weekend trip to Helsinki or Tallinn when tel. (+7) 812 703 78 34, www.ey.com/cis. Open 08:30 - once a month, in different locations in the city. Addi- a change of scenery is needed. During the warm- 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. tional member based activities, events and groups are weather season there is another favorite spot: My little KPMG If you would like your expat or business organised daily. balcony! I am blessed living in a quaint neighborhood, QE-4, Ul. Marata 69-71A, MLigovsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 group to be featured here, just drop us a line internations buzzing during the day, yet soothingly quiet at night. 313 73 00, www.kpmg.ru. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed at [email protected] Qwww.internations.org. Sat, Sun. 60 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket October - November 2014 61 BOLSHOY NEVKI NAB. AKADEMIKA PAVLOVA UL. 1 59 KANTEMIROVSKAYA UL. KANTEMIROVSKY 55 ALEXANDRA MATROSOVA UL. MALOY NEVKI NAB. MOST 51 LITOVSKAYA UL.

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RYUKHINA UL. RYUKHINA GRENADERSKAYA UL. MORSKOY PR. 29 METALLISTOV PR. KRESTOVSKY 24 2 OSTROV 4 BOLSHOY SAMPSONIEVSKY PR. BATAREINAYA DOROGA 30 PETROGRADSKAYA UL. PETROGRADSKAYA NEISHLOTSKY PER. DINAMO PR. BOLSHAYA NEVKA RIVER RIVER 40 LEVASHOVSKY PR. PL. LVA FOKINA UL. KRESTOVSKY PR. SPORTIVNAYA UL. PIROGOVSKAYA NAB. PISKARYOVSKY PR. TOLSTOGO LVA TOLSTOGO UL. 21 POLYUSTROVSKY PR. 33 LEVASHOVSKY PR. CHKALOVSKY PR. KAMENNOOSTROVSKY PR. ZHUKOVA UL. 44 24 PETROGRADSKAYA NAB. . 40 VYBORGSKAYA UL. MINERALNAYA UL. 8 B MALY PR. 84 25 NA KOTOVSKOGOCHAPAEVA UL. A 65 Y NEVKAV 14 LENINA UL. RENTGENA UL. LESNOY PR. UZHNA E 23 YA DOR AR BOL. ZELENINA UL. YUZHNAYA DOROGA OGA Z 26 LA 30 MALAYA RALA 28 GATCHINSKAYA UL. ADMI 48 BOL. MONETNAYA UL. SMIRNOVA UL. 22 ORANIENBAUMSKAYA UL. 13 BOLSHOY PR. KRONVERKSKAYA UL. 15 VATUTINA UL. L. PEVCHESKY PER. . MIRA UL. CHAPAEVA UL. 13 U L 22 PIONERSKAYA UL. 30 U A KORPUSNAYA UL. 23 A AVSTRI- AY Y 8 K CHKALOVSKAYA A SKAYA PL. S SK H 30 R 16 16 24 Z A 11 6 BOTKINSKAYA UL. O 11 K SAMPSONIEVSKY KONDRATYEVSKY PR. SHSABLINSKAYA UL. 1 7 14 SVERDLOVSKAYA NAB.FEODOSISKAYA UL. D 35 KRASNOGO KURSANTA UL. U MOST 34 A . P L 33 L VOSKOVA UL. O M A FINLYANDSKY PR. V ARSENALNAYA UL. NEVA PETROVSKAYA KOSA M 35 25 2 O 2 MALY PR. 4 GARDEN N A NVERKSKY PR. PIONERSKAYA UL. R KRO 15 MICHURINSKAYA UL. 4 5 ZHDANOVSKAYA21 UL. CHKALOVSKY PR. BOL. PUSHKARSKAYA UL.K KLINICHESKAYA UL. NEVA RIVER REVOLYUTSII SHOSSE 25 VVEDENSKAYAI NUL. A 1 26 U KUYBYSHEVA UL. L GORKOVSKAYA 7 1 50 14 . 2 4

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NALICHNAYA UL. KIMA PR. 8 NEVA RIVER E 20 30 POTYOMKINSKAYA UL. POTYOMKINSKAYA UL. ODESSKAYA

4 2 K MARSOVO UL. DIKTATURI PROLETARSKOY 6 - 7-YA LINIYA 7 4 A 48 1 51 29 16 20 CHERNYSHEVSKAYA R 10 NOVOSMOLENSKAYA NAB. MALY PR. S POLE SMOLNY PR. MENDELEEVSKAYA LINIYA K KIROCHNAYA UL. T ODOEVSKOGO UL. 41 DVORTSOVAYA NAB. SMOLNAYANAB. 26 BIRZHEVAYA Y 1 U 22 KADETSKAYA LINIYA – 1-YA LINIYA P PL. 7 E PREOBRAZH. PARADNAYA UL. L 8 - 9-YA LINIYA VOY PRO 39 S PRIMORSKAYA E EZ 28 MOSHKOV R 41 K ZH D HERMITAGE RIVER . PL. A

NOVOSMOLENSKAYA NAB. R NAB. SVERDLOVSKAYA I 24 43 Y 18 B PESTELYA UL. RYLEEVA UL. A 59 2 - 3 MILLIONNAYAPER. UL. FONTANKY REKY NAB. 15 UL. 27 4 11 SREDNY PR. 5 DVORTSOVY ARTILLERIS- 63 YAKORNAYA UL. - 4 2 27 38 4 - 5 YA LINIYA MOST MOIKA KAYA UL. 13

35 20 UL. VOSSTANIYA KIROCHNAYA 23 49 10 - 11-YA LINIYA BOLSHEOHTINSKY

30

50 1 -YA LINIYA SAPYORNY PER. BERINGA UL. 17 6 MOST PR. NOVOCHERKASSKY 23 3 UL. RADISHCHEVA 62 KUNSTKAMERA 18 45 12 - 13-YA LINIYA 22 KORABLESTROITELEY UL. VASILEOSTROVSKAYA 35 6 - 7 VILENSKY PER. 61 P 24 SUVOROVSKY53 PR. ER SEA PASSENGER 8 - 9 Y . UL. 14 - 15-YA LINIYA 51 - 2 MENSHIKOV YA LINIYA 13 UL. KOROLENKO BASKOV PER. N TERMINAL 59 32 49 R 35 PALACE 39 A - 31 MOKHOVAYAUL. Y YA LINIYA DVORTSOVAYA NEKRASOVA UL. T 2 - 3 11 2 3 G 8 PL. 2 9-YA SOVETSKAYA UL. E

16 - 17-YA LINIYA 28 10 VOLYNSKY PER. 33 D 17 -YA LINIYA 2 8 18 76

BELINSKOGO UL. 10-YA SOVETSKAYA UL. BELINSKOGO 6

20

20 18 - 19-YA LINIYA . 1 11 MOISEENKO UL. 6 . PL. B KRASNOGOTEKSTILSHCHIKA UL.

SHEVCHENKO UL. 60 3 UL KOVENSKY PER. 8-YA SOVETSKAYA5 UL. 17 62 A A 21 27 39

71 31 4 AY 43 N 8

24 24 55 ISKUSSTV INZ RN

H E 54 70 2 E N Y 16 24

33 NEVSKY PR. NAB. KAN. GRIBOEDOVA 25 ITALYANSKAYAPL. UL. UL. MAYAKOVSKOGO 32

20 BOL.KONYUSHENNAYA UL. K 26 14 5 E UL. CHEKHOVA

15 MALY PR. 20 MANEZHNAYA R

UNIVERSITETSKAYA NAB. 7-YA SOVETSKAYA UL. 11 BOLSHOY PR. UL. KONYUSHENNAYA MAL. PL. ZHUKOVSKOGO UL.

Y 17 NALICHNY PER. 23 ADMIRALTEISKAYA NAB. ITALYANSKAYA UL. RADISHCHEVA UL. 18 NOVGORODSKAYA UL. 15 KAZANSKAYA K 1 30 22 19 14 47 1 SHOPPING N VOZNESENSKY PR. PL.

24 - 25-YA LINIYA 34 CENTER A 20 - 21 NEVSKY PR. UL. 36 11 16 NAKHIMOVA UL. T 76 25 ADMIRALTEISKY PR. ADMIRALTEISKAYA PASSAGE SA- SKAYA UL. 18 70 SREDNY PR. N 4-YA SOVETSKAYA UL. 69 20 BLAGOVESHCHENSKY MIKHAILOV- 2 8 6 . SADOVAYA UL. 13 44 O GRECHESKY PR. KIRILLOVSKAYA UL. 29 3 50 MOST B F MAL. 12 SINOPSKAYA NAB. 22 - 23 - A NEVSKY PR. 9 80 YA LINIYA MAL. MORSKAYA UL. SUVOROVSKY PR. 14 N DOVAYA 3-YA SOVETSKAYA UL. 55 60 LIGOVSKY PR. MALOOKHTINSKAYA NAB.

Y 4 17 65 UL. VOSSTANIYA KARAVANNAYA UL. 16 - 1744 K 64 1 8 GALERNAYA UL. E LITEINYPR. -YA LINIYA GOROKHOVAYA UL. ANICHKOV 2-YA SOVETSKAYA UL. 12 POCHTAMTSKY PER. R SHOPPING MALO- Y GOSTINY DVOR 39 MOST KLUBNY PER. K 43 94 CENTER 1 OHTINSKY - LEITENANTA SHMIDTA NAB. 30 BOL. MORSKAYA UL. I OSTROVSKOGO 96 NEVSKY 18 - 19- YA LINIYA O SHOPPING 47 STARORUSSKAYA UL. PARK 10

23 PL. CENTER . M CENTER 49 DEGTYARNAYA UL. 34 ISAAKIEVSKAYA L 1 54 25 GOSTINY 5

. 4 7 DUMSKAYA UL. VOSSTANIYA U L ANGLISKAYA NAB.

U 27 PL. RIVER DVOR 33 6 A 40 10 MAYAKOVSKAYA PL. K 28 10 MYTNINSKAYA UL. TO SOBCHAKA YA LINIYA UL. 58 STREMYANNAYA UL. 81 Y

A 35 5 O -YA LINIYA 73 62 KONNOGVARDEISKY BUL. MOIKA GRAFSKY PER. 128 88 PL. BOLSHAYA NEVA RIVER ANTONENKO PER. KAZANSKAYA UL. 43 NALICHNAYA UL. R K P 20 - 21-YA LINIYA TRUDA LOMONOSOVA UL. 29 32 13 SKY SHEVCHENKO UL. 64 2 S IPER PL. BANKOVSKY 21 3 2 PL. VOSSTANIYA 140 K 19 M SH KRYUKOVA KAN. NAB. 11 17 . GRIVTSOVA PER. GRIBOEDOVA KAN. GONCHARNAYA UL. O 22 - 23-YA LINIYA B 41 18 BAKUNINA PR. 26 - 27-YA LINIYA KHERSONSKAYA UL.K BOLSHOY PR. 74 A BOL. MORSKAYA UL. MUCHNOY PER.PER. 50 7 24 6 PER. N POCHTAMTSKAYA 2 L . TRUDA UL. PER. MALOOKHTINSKY PR. N 3 13 O 74 SADOVAYA UL. 4 KONNAYA4 UL. 13 GALERNAYA UL.A 27 FONTANKA RIVER VLADIMIRSKYPR.

24 - 25-YA LINIYA K 5 DMITROVSKY P POVARSKOY Y 80 . 148 S NSK T 55 8 I O L FONARNY PER. 29 KOLOKOLNAYA 15 S D A ZOD. ROSSI UL. R EZ IR SHCHERBA- 15 E O SPASSKY PER. 57 152 H R M LOMONOSOVA KOV PER. UL. K P 2 9 85 D 4 STAKHANOVTSEV8 UL. 39 14 100 A 94 PL. DOSTOEVSKAYA PUSHKINSKAYA UL. 31 7 SREDNY PR. 43 APRAKSIN PER. 117 LOMONOSOVA UL. RUBINSHTEINA UL. ZANEVSKY PR. GOROKHOVAYA UL. KUZNECHNY PER. 170 MO KAZANSKAYASTOLYARNY UL. PER. 59 7 25 1 49 IK POLTAVSKAYA UL.TELEZHNAYA UL.NEVSKY PR. 41 KOSAYA LINIYA Y 82 114 RE 67 7 172 KY 38 40 VLADIMIRSKAYA 16 SREDNEGAVANSKY PR. N 21 13 147 AB. 89 74 15 12 MASLYANOGO KAN. 5

104 DEKABRISTOV UL. GRAZHDA NSKAYA UL. SADOVAYA 30 SHOPPING MIRGORODSKAYA UL. 151 180 PODYACHESKAYA 53 DZHAMBULA PER. KHARKOVSKAYA16 UL. 29 124 MARIINSKY UL. SREDNYAYA 77 13 18 2 DETSKAYA UL. SENNAYA PL. CENTER 182 86 THEATRE BOL. PODYACHESKAYA UL. BORODINSKAYA UL. RAZYEZZHAYA UL. AL.NEVSKOGO UL. ALEXANDRA PISAREVA UL. 71 GALERIA 3 ANGLISKY PR. TEATRALNAYA 79 SVECHNOY. 169 PER. 20 NEVSKOGO SENNAYA PL. 1 EFIMOVA UL. L PL. LIGOVSKY PR. U MOST PL. ALEXANDRA MOSKOVSKY PR. MATVEEVA 29 74 5 MARATA UL. SEMYONOVSKAYA 4 99 100 NEVSKOGO MINSKY 3 30 PL. 13 O PER. GLINKY UL. 2 91 1 G NAB. PER. 7 31 3 115 O 89

50 K 13 98

KRYUKOVA KAN. NAB. ZAGORODNY PR. SOTSIALISTICHESKAYA UL. S 41 BOL. V KREMENCHUKSKAYA UL. SADOVAYA UL. 44 E O PUSHKINSKAYA UL.

DEKABRISTOV UL. T 19 51 S

9 KAZACHY PER. 37 O 5 18 7 VOZNESENSKY PR. 109 9 D KO 1 PER. BOITSOVA FONTANKY REKY104 NAB. ZHE A VENNAYA LINIY 60 ZVENIGORODSKAYA 1 V 105 2 9 SOYUZA PECHATNIKOV UL. NIKOLSKAYA V PRAVDY UL. 60 DROVANOY PER. E PL. D E ZVENIGORODSKAYA UL. TRANSPORTNY PER. 115 N V.ERMAKA UL. NIKOLSKY PER. 110 S K PUSHKINSKAYA 3 ANGLISKY PR. OVA KA O KOLOMENSKAYA UL. LIGOVSKY PR. OED N. N G PIONERSKAYA ALEXANDER NEVSKY RIMSKOGO–KORSAKOVARIB 134 PR. AB 62 MOSKOVSKY PR. O CATHEDRAL

G . PL. 102 K 25 A 13 MYASNAYA UL. LERMONTOVSKY PR. N 84 BOROVAYA UL. 11 PER. MAKARENKO 129 FONTANKA RIVER A 18 ROMENSKAYA UL. 116 L OBUKHOVSKOY OBORONY PR. PRYAZHKI REKY NAB. DERZHAVINSKY PER. A 112 156 U L PODYEZDNOY PER. 19 135 . 121 LOTSMANSKAYA UL. KANONERSKAYA UL. OBVODNOGO KAN. NAB. VITEBS KAYA UL. VEREISKAYA UL. MARATA UL. 26 6 4 KLIMOV PER. PODOLSKAYA UL. PSKOVS KAYA UL.GRIBOEDOVA KAN. 49 27 21

19 LIGOVSKY PR. 2 ZAGORODNY PR. 126 LABUTINA UL. RUZOVSKAYA UL. PAVLOGRADSKIY 5 132 32 143 ATAMANSKAYA UL. 178 29 FONTANKY REKY NAB. 1 TYUSHINA UL. PER. SADOVAYA UL. TEKHNOLOGICHESKYSERPUKHOVSKAYA UL. LUBLINSKYPER. 15 INSTITUT 6 31 OBVODNY KANAL MOZHAISKAYA UL. 91 FONTANKA RIVER LERMONTOVSKY PR. 1-YA KRASNOARMEISKAYA UL. BRONNITSKAYA UL. KONSTANTINA89 ZASLONOVA83 UL. TROITSKY PR. IZMAILOVSKY PR. KLINSKY PR. 20 2 145 39 DROVYANAYA UL. SOVETSKY PER. 2-YA KRASNOARMEISKAYA UL. 38 OBVODNOGO KAN.NAB. 156 Mariinsky Theatre 1 Aleksander Nevsky Monastery 144 CHERNYAKHOVSKOGOUL. T 13-YA KRASNOARMEISKAYA UL. 17 75 S 43 BATAISKY PER. I 30 O 3-YA KRASNOARMEISKAYA UL. DNEPROPETROVSKAYA UL. 166 L The home of Russian ballet and opera since the 1860s, 99 Founded by Peter the Great in 1710, this orthodox mon- K 8-YA KRASNOARMEISKAYA UL.2 MOSKOVSKY PR. 49 O 4-YA KRASNOARMEISKAYA UL. V 1 S the Mariinsky Theatre,9-YA KRASNOARMEISKAYA is a cultural UL. leader and one of the astery is the most important in St. Petersburg. The St. K RIZHSKY PR. O 5-YA KRASNOARMEISKAYA UL. G OBVODNY KANAL 40 O most illustrious10-YA and KRASNOARMEISKAYA beautiful theatres UL. in the world. Trinity cathedral is worth a visit and so is the cemetery. 52 U 6-YA KRASNOARMEISKAYAEGOROVA UL. UL. MALODETSKOSELSKY PR. L RYBINSKAYA UL. Find our review on page 40 . 30 2 Find our review on page 39 GLUHOOZERSKOE SHOSSE 119

KURLYANDSKAYA UL. NEFTYANAYA DOROGA 57

54 BOROVAYA UL. 7 54 30 KURSKAYA UL.

57 OBVODNY KANAL STAROPETERGOFSKY PR. STEPANA RAZINA UL. 171 149 129 189 175 VORONEZHSKAYA UL. 209 PRILUKSKAYA UL. 227 OBVODNOGO KAN. NAB.

DNEPROPETROVSKAYA UL. OBVODNY KANAL TAMBOVSKAYA UL. RASSTANNAYA UL.

BALTISKAYA FRUNZENSKAYA

B. Y REKY NA OIK M Street register Moscow

1-28-ya liniya B-2,3/C-2,3 Konnogvardeysky bul. C-3 Rubinshteina ul. E-3 Admiralteisky pr. D-3 Kovensky per. E-2 Ryleeva ul. E-2 Alexandra Nevskogo most F-3 Krasnogo Tekstilshchika ul. F-2 Sadovaya ul. E-2,3 Angliskaya nab. C-3 Kronverkskaya nab. D-2 Sampsonievsky most D-1 Anichkov most E-3 Kronversky pr. D-1 Sapyorny per. E-2 Arsenalnaya nab. E-2 Kutuzova nab. D-2/E-2 Shpalernaya ul. E-2/F-2 Bakunina pr. F-3 Lermontovsky pr. C-3/C-4 Shvedsky per. D-2 Baskov per. E-2 Letny sad D-2 Sinopskaya nab. F-3 Belinskogo ul. E-2 Leitenanta Shmidta nab. C-3 Smolnaya nab. F-2 Birzhevaya liniya C-2 Ligovsky pr. E-3/E-4 Solyanoy per. E-2 Blagoveshchensky most C-2 Liteiny most E-2 Sotsialisticheskaya ul. E-3 Blokhina ul. C-2 Liteiny pr. E-2/E-3 Sovetskaya 1-ya - 9-ya ul. E-3/F-2,3 Fast-paced Moskva is Russia’s political, historical and business getting there Bol. Konyushennaya ul. D-2 Lomonosova ul. D-3/E-3 Spassky per. D-3 capital and a magnet for the adventurous and ambitious Bol. Morskaya ul. C-3/D-3 Makarova nab. C-2 Sredniy pr. (V0) B-2,3/C-2 from across the country and further afield. In all senses, this Dozens of different night trains run to Moscow every day Bol. Podyacheskaya ul. D-3 Mal. Konyushennaya ul. D-2 Starorusskaya ul. F-3 mega city of more than 12 million inhabitants is a melting- from Moskovsky vokzal, so there’s little excuse for not pot and its outstanding dining scene and vibrant nightlife making the effort to visit. If you have less time you can Bolsheokhtinsky most F-2 Mal. Morskaya ul. D-3 Stolyarny per. D-3 reflects its cosmopolitan population. A city of contrasts, Mos- also take advantage of the new super fast Sapsan train, Bolshoy pr. (PS) C-1,2 Mal. Posadskaya D-1 Stremyannaya ul. E-3 cow’s busy streets all bear witness to Russia’s turbulent histo- which leaves St. Petersburg six times a day and gets you Bolshoy pr. (VO) B-3/C-2 Mal. Sadovaya E-3 Suvorovsky pr. F-2,3 ry and dynamic future and while it’s not for the faint-hearted, there in just under four hours. Local airlines also fly to the Russian capital is a cultural experience not to be missed. Chernyshevskogo pr. E-2 Maly pr. (PS) C-1 Sverdlovskaya nab. F-1,2 Moscow and the journey takes about one hour. Once at one of Moscow’s three airports, hop on the aeroexpress Chkalovsky pr. C-1 Maly pr. (VO) B-1 Tavricheskaya ul. F-2 train which brings you right to the centre. Degtyarnaya ul. F-3 Manezhnaya pl. E-3 Chaikovskogo ul. E-2 Churches Dekabristov ul. C-3/D-3 Marata ul. E-3 Teatralnaya pl. C-3 Cathedral of Christ the Saviour QUl. Volkhonka 15, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 Luxury Trains to Dostoevskogo ul. E-3 Marsovo pole D-2 Troitsky most D-2 637 28 47, www.xxc.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Mon 13:00 Dumskaya ul. D-3 Mayakovskogo ul. E-2/E-3 Tuchkov most C-2 - 18:00. Admission free. Guided tours in English for Moscow Dvortsovaya nab. D-2 Mendeleevskaya liniya C-2 Tverskaya ul. F-2 groups for up to 10 people 6,000Rbl (pre-booking re- quired call (+7) 495 637 28 47). If you are looking for a comfortable night train to the Efimova ul. D-3 Mikhailovskaya ul. D-3 Universitetskaya nab. C-2,3 Novodevichy Monastery capital it is worth considering taking a private train. Furshtatskaya ul. E-2 Millionnaya ul. D-2 Vladimirsky pr. E-3 QNovodevichy proezd 1, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 499 The cheerful Megapolis train leaves for Moscow every Galernaya ul. C-3 Moskovsky pr. D-3/D-4 Vosstaniya ul. E-2,3 246 85 26. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Admission 250Rbl. night and offers a more hotel-like travel experience. Pokrovsky Monastery Glinki ul. C-3 Moiky reky nab. C-3/D-2,3 Vosstaniya pl. E-3 After being shown to your cabin you will find your QUl. Taganskaya 58, MMarksistskaya, tel. (+7) 495 911 beds have already been made up with real duvets Goncharnaya ul. E-3 Muchnoy per. D-3 Voznesensky pr. D-3 49 20, www.pokrov-monastir.ru. Open 07:00 - 20:00. rather than blankets, and all round the carriages are Gorokhovaya ul. D-3 Mytninskaya nab. С-2/D-2 Zagorodny pr. D-3,4/E-3 Admission free. spotless. Hot breakfast and coffee can be brought to Grafsky per. E-3 Nekrasova ul. E-2 Zhukovskogo ul. E-3 your room in the morning and if at any moment dur- ing the trip you experience some problems you can Griboedova kan. nab. C-3,4/D-2,3 Nevsky pr. D-3/E-3/F-3 Museums call the train attendant from the comfort of your bed Grivtsova per. D-3 Ostrovskogo pl. E-3 All-Russian Decorative Art Museum and they will come to you! If you want to wake up Inzhenernaya ul. E-3 Pestelya ul. E-2 Abbreviations QDelegatskaya ul. 3, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 in Moscow truly fresh in the morning, it’s worth the 609 01 46, www.vmdpni.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu Q M Isaakievskaya pl. D-3 Petrovskaya nab. D-2 Ul. – Ulitsa money. Trains leave Moskovsky vokzal ( Pl. Voss- 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed taniya) at 00:26 and arrive in Moscow at 09:00. For Iskusstv pl. D-3 Pirogovskaya nab. E-1/E-2 Pr. – Prospekt Tue and last Mon of the month. Admission 20 - 200Rbl. reservations call (+7) 495 35 44 11 or book online at Italyanskaya ul. D-3/D-4 Pochtamtskaya ul. C-3 Pl. – Ploshchad GULAG History Museum www.megapolis-te.ru Kadetskaya liniya C-2 Poltavskaya ul. F-3 Bul. – Bulvar QUl. Petrovka 16, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) 495 621 73 46, www.gmig.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Thu Kamennoostrovsky pr. D-1 Pushkinskaya ul. E-3 Per. – Pereulok 11:00 - 20:00 Closed Mon, last Fri of the month. Ad- Karavannaya ul. E-3 Radishcheva ul. E-2/E-3 Kan. – Kanal mission 150Rbl. Kazanskaya ul. D-3 Razyezzhaya ul. E-3 Nab. – Naberezhnaya State Central Museum of Contemporary Russian History Kirochnaya ul. E-2/F-2 Rimskogo-Korsakova ul. C-3,4/D-3 Bol. – Bolshaya QTverskaya ul. 21, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 699 67 24, Kolokolnaya ul. E-3 Robespyera nab. E-2 Mal. – Malaya www.sovr.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 12:00 - 21.00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 70 - 250Rbl. 64 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket October - November 2014 65 Moscow Metro map The Pushkin State Museum of Fine Arts QUl. Volkhonka 12, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) Modern Art Centres 495 609 95 20, www.artsmuseum.ru. Open 10:00 Moscow Multimedia Art Museum (MMAM) - 19:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission QUl. Ostozhenka 16, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 300 - 400Rbl. Admission may vary according to the 637 11 00, www.mamm-mdf.ru/en. Open 12:00 - 21:00. exhibition. Closed Mon. Admission 300Rbl. Tretyakov Gallery Moscow Museum of Modern Art (MMOMA) QLavrushinsky per. 10, MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+7) QUl. Petrovka 25, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 495 951 13 62, www.tretyakovgallery.ru. Open 10:00 694 28 90, www.mmoma.ru. Open 12:00 - 20:00. Thu - 18:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 13:00 - 21:00. Closed third Mon of the month. Admis- 100 - 360Rbl. English audio guide 250Rbl. sion from 150Rbl. Aeroexpress Trains

The most reliable way of travelling to and from air- ports in Moscow is by Aeroexpress. Aeroexpress trains run between Belorussky Rail Terminal and Sherem- etyevo (SVO) airport, Kievsky Rail Terminal and Vnu- kovo (VKO) airport, and Paveletsky Rail Terminal and Domodedovo (DME) airport. Each rail terminal is con- nected via the metro circle line. It takes 35 – 45 minutes to get to the airports from the centre of Moscow. Aeroexpress tickets can be bought at Aeroexpress hotels ticket counters or at automatic machines in the rail ter- Hilton Moscow Leningradskaya minals, through the websites of partner airlines, travel QKalanchevskaya ul. 21/40, MKrasnye Vorota, agencies, and via air ticket agencies, either in Moscow, tel. (+7) 495 627 55 50, www.moscow.hilton.com. or indeed almost any other region of Russia. A list of hhhhh sales outlets can be found on the company’s website, Hotel Baltschug Kempinski Moscow where you can also buy an electronic ticket: www. QUl. Baltschug 1, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) aeroexpress.ru. 495 287 20 00, www.kempinski.com/moscow. hhhhh Download their free mobile app and you will be able to Lotte Hotel Moscow purchase Aeroexpress tickets using your smartphone QNovinsky bul. 8, bldg. 2, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) with no need to print out the ticket: the turnstiles at 495 745 10 00, www.lottehotel.ru. hhhhh the airport are able to read the ticket’s QR-code directly Hotel National from your smartphone/tablet screen. QMokhovaya ul. 15/1, bldg.1, MOkhotnyy Ryad, tel. If you are a Master Card Pay- (+7) 495 258 70 00, www.national.ru. hhhhh Pass or VISA PayWave hold- Sheraton Moscow Sheremetyevo er, you can easily pay for the Airport Hotel fare directly at the turnstiles QMezhdunarodnoye shosse 28B, bldg. 5, Aeroexpress. MPlanernaya, tel. (+7) 495 229 00 10, www. sheratonmoscowairport.com. hhhhh The Aeroexpress hotline is Adagio Moscow Paveletskaya (+7) 800 700 33 77 (calls QUl. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 from within Russia are free). 720 53 01, www.accorhotels.com. hhhh Best Western Vega Hotel & Convention Center QIzmailovskoe shosse 71, bldg. 3V, MPartizanskaya, tel. (+7) 495 956 05 06, www.hotel-vega.ru. hhh Mercure Moscow Paveletskaya QUl. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 720 53 01, www.mercure.com. hhhh Advertise on this map! Ibis Moscow Centre Bakhrushina QUl. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 720 Call: 53 01, www.accorhotels.com. hhh Ivan Hostel (+7) 812 448 88 65 QPetrovsky per. 1/30, app. 23, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 916 407 11 78, www.ivanhostel.com 66 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com COUPON